Patisserie a Step-By-step Guide to Baking French Pastries at Home

Murielle Valette was born into a family of French chefs. She has been making andenjoyingfoodforaslongasshecanremember.Learningthefamilytraditionfirst,shewasthenclassicallytrainedandworkedalongsidethebestchefsinFranceandtheUK.AfterfifteenyearsoflearninghowtocreatedesPâtisseriesàlafrançaise,sheisnowrenownedfor her unique combination of French-inspired cooking with English flavours andtraditions. Head pastry chef at theMichelin-starred restaurant OckendenManor Hotel,southofLondon,MuriellededicateshertimeandenergytosharingherpassionforFrenchpastryintheUK.

Pâtisserie

MURIELLEVALETTEConstable•London

Constable&RobinsonLtd

55–56RussellSquare

LondonWC1B4HP

www.constablerobinson.com

FirstpublishedintheUKbyConstable,

animprintofConstable&RobinsonLtd,2013

Copyright©MurielleValette2013

Photographs©LisaDevlin2013

TherightofMurielleValettetobeidentifiedastheauthorofthis

workhasbeenassertedbyherinaccordancewiththe

Copyright,DesignsandPatentsAct1988

Allrightsreserved.Thisbookissoldsubjecttotheconditionthatitshallnot,bywayoftradeorotherwise,belent,resold,hiredoutorotherwisecirculatedinanyformofbindingorcoverotherthanthatinwhichitispublishedand

withoutasimilarconditionincludingthisconditionbeingimposedonthesubsequentpurchaser.

AcopyoftheBritishLibraryCataloguingin

PublicationDataisavailablefromtheBritishLibrary

ISBN978-1-9089-7413-6(tradepaperback)

ISBN978-1-4721-1014-5(ebook)

PrintedandboundintheUK

13579108642

Coverdesign:www.mousematdesign.com

http://www.constablerobinson.com

http://www.mousematdesign.com

ToMamie,JeanneSalvagnac(1922-2010),mylovinggrandmotherwhointroducedmetopâtisserieasachild.

Contents

Preface

ThebasictechniquesSweetshortcrustpastry

Sweetpastry

Sabléepastry

Puffpastry

Chouxpastry

Croissantdough

Briochedough

Savarindough

Génoisesponge

Crèmeanglaise

Crèmepâtissière

Almondcream

Buttercream

Chantillycream

Frenchmeringue

Italianmeringue

Chapter1–SweetshortcrustpastryHowtolineatarttin

Appleandcinnamontart

Mymother’srhubarbtart

Greengagetart

Howtoblindbakeapastrybase

Alsatianappletart

Parisianflantart

Blueberryandlemontart

Chapter2–SweetpastryCaramelizedlemontart

Howtomakeadarkchocolatemoussefilling

Deliciouslylightchocolatetart

Apricotandalmondtart

Fig,honeyandalmondtart

Howtopoachpears

Pear,chocolateandalmondtart

Basquecustardandblackcherrypie

Walnuttart

Chapter3–SabléepastrySourcherryandpistachiotartlets

Howtomakeawhitechocolateandvanillamousse

Raspberryandwhitechocolatetart

Strawberrytart

Warmchocolatetartlets

Lemonmeringuepies

Milkchocolateandhazelnuttartlets

Chapter4–PuffpastryAppletartTatin

Summerfruitspufftartlets

Fineplumtart

TwelfthNightcake:almondpithivier

Cherryandhazelnutpithiviers

Appleandblackberryturnovers

Vanillamillefeuille

Whitechocolateandraspberrymillefeuilles

Darkchocolatemillefeuille

Chapter5–ChouxpastryChantillychoux

Chocolateéclairs

Chocolateprofiteroles

Rocsugarchoux

Icedcoffeecreamchoux

Howtomakeacaramel

Frenchweddingcake

Saint-Honoréchouxcake

Pralinechouxcake

Chapter6–RisingdoughsHowtorollupcroissants

Howtorollupalmondcroissants

Howtorolluppainsauchocolat

Howtorolluppainsauxraisins

Croissants,almondcroissants,painsauchocolat,painsauxraisins

Parisianbrioches

Pinkpralinebrioche

ChocolateViennabreads

Kugelhopf

Saint-Tropeztart

Aveyronprunetart

Cherryandcinnamonbriochetart

Rumbabawithvanillawhippedcream

Kirschsavarinswithcherrycompote

Chapter7–Flans,creamsandeggbattersCherryclafoutis

Mygrandmother’spearclafoutis

WestIndianflan

Frenchtoast

Howtomakeapancakemix

OrangeandGrandMarnierpancakes

Floatingislands

EarlGreycrèmebrûlée

Mymother’scrèmecaramel

Darkchocolateandorangemousse

Coffee,vanillaandchocolatebavarois

Lemonsoufflé

Chapter8–SpongecakesApricotjamrouladecake

Howtomakeahomemadepralinepaste

PralineChristmaslog

Coffeemoka

BakedAlaska

Strawberryandpistachiocreamsponge

Howtomakechocolateshavings

Doublechocolateandraspberrysponge

Chestnutandpearcharlotte

Howtomakeahazelnutdacquoise

Hazelnutlayercake

Chocolateandorangecake

BlackForestgateau

Chapter9–SweettreatsDarkchocolateandlemonmadeleines

Apricotfinanciers

Cannelés

Howtomakemacaroons

Raspberrymacaroons

Lemonmacaroons

Hazelnutandmilkchocolatemacaroons

Flakedalmondtuiles

Darkchocolateflorentines

Bretonsbiscuits

Nini’ssablésbiscuits

Fingerbiscuits

Rolledbiscuits

Frenchmeringues

Spongefingers

Heart-shapedbiscuits

Crispcinnamonbiscuits

Acknowledgements

Index

Preface

This book is a tribute to passion: passion for pâtisserie and passion for France. It is acelebrationofaFrenchartdevivreandis intendedforallFrancophilesandchefs inthemaking.Inthisbookyouwillfindrecipesthatcoverawholerangeofexquisitepâtisserie–fromfamilydessertstoclassicandtraditionalFrenchpâtisserie.Iwanttosharewithyourecipes frommy childhood that I learnt frommyMaman, who herself learnt from hermother.

A common misconception that surrounds French pâtisserie is that it is difficult tomake. You will discover in this book the well-kept secrets of French pastry chefs; allclassicFrenchpâtisserie isbuilt arounda fewbasic techniques andcore recipes. Ifyoulearntomaster these,youcanrecreateanyFrenchdessertfromthesimplest tothemostcomplicated.YouwillthenbeabletoserveathomewhatyouseeinthepastryshopsandbakeriesoreatinthetraditionalrestaurantsandbistrosinFrance.

Ihavecookedforas longasIcanremember.Thispassionisstillcentral tomylife,bothathomeandatwork.Iaimtoshowthatitiseasytobringtheworkofprofessionalpastry chefs into every home. Everybody can learn how to bake French desserts if therecipesareexplainedproperly.Followingthisbookwillhopefullybeliketakingaprivatepastrycourseathome.

Intherichlyillustratedfirstsection,youwillfindmanypicturesexplainingthebasictechniquesstepbystep.Themainpartof thebookcontainsall therecipes,organizedinchapters by pastry type. Most recipes will use one or several of the basic techniquesexplainedatthebeginningofthebook.Italsocontainsshortcutsandprofessionaltipsforsuccessfulandrapidpastry-makingathome.

Etvoilà! Ihope thisbookwillbecomeyour favouritecompanion in thekitchenandgiveyouthepleasureofsharingamazingdessertswiththoseyoulove.

Happybaking!

Murielle

Thebasictechniques

The most important thing when making French pâtisserie is a good pair of hands. Ofcourse,electricmixersorfoodprocessorscanbeusedtoaccelerateandsimplifytheworkbut ultimately everything canbe donebyhand.Ahandwhiskworks just aswell as anelectricwhisk,anelectricpaddlecanbereplacedbyaspatulaandthedoughhookbyyourhands.Usingyourhandsisalittlebitmorephysicalofcourse,butquitesatisfying.

AtworkandathomeIprefertoworkonamarbleorstonesurface,butmostsurfaceswillsufficeaslongastheyaresmoothandfairlycold.(Iftheworksurfaceiswarm,youcancoolitdownwithicecubesandwipeitdry.)

Thereare,however,afewpiecesofcookingequipmentthatIwouldrecommendyoubuyifyoudonotalreadyhavethemathome:

•Asugarthermometer

•Ablowtorchforcaramelizingtartsandcreams

•Acoupleofnon-stickbakingtrays

•Asiliconematforcookingspongeandbiscuits

•Pipingbagswithasetofnozzlestofillordecoratecakes

Ifyouarecontemplatingbuyingnewmoulds,Irecommendnon-stickloose-bottomcakeor tart tins.However, somerecipes in thebook, likesavarinsormadeleines, require thepurchaseofspecificmoulds.

Thebakingphaseisasimportantasthemakingofthedessert.Allovensaredifferentandyouknowyourovenbest.So,followthecookingtemperaturesandtimesinthisbookbutalsokeepacloseeyeonwhatisgoingonintheoventoensureyougetagoodbake.Ideally,allpâtisseriesshouldbecookedinafanovenbecausethetemperatureinsidetheovenisevenlydistributed.Astaticovencanalsobeusedbutitwillrequiremorecareandeventuallysomeadjustmentsofthetemperatureandthecookingtime.

Sweetshortcrustpastry

LAPÂTEBRISÉESUCRÉE

Idealforcookedfruitandcustardtarts,usenon-fragilefruitslikeapples,pears,apricots,plumsetc,withthispastry.Thefruitsandtheshortcrustpastrycanbecooked

simultaneously.For500gofpastry/Preparationtime:15minutes/Restingtimeinfridge:1hour

INGREDIENTS

250gplainflour

160gcoldbutter,diced

50mlmilk,atroomtemperature

5gsalt

15gcastersugar

1mediumeggyolk

BYHAND

1.Puttheflouranddicedbutterontoaworksurface.

2.Useyourfingertipstocoateachpieceofbutterwithflour.Then,withbothhands,workthemixtureuntilithasasandytexture.

3.Makeawellandpourthemilkintoitscentre.Addthesaltandcastersugaranddissolvetheminthemilkbystiringusingyourfingertips.Finally,addtheeggyolk.

4.Graduallyincorporatetheflourmixintotheliquid,startingfromtheinsideofthewell.

5.Whentheliquidhasdisappeared,usebothhandstomixthepastryuntilithasanevenconsistency.Donotoverworkit–whenalltheingredientsarecombined,itisready.

6.Gatherthepastryintoarectangularshape(3cmthick)tomakeiteasiertorollout.Wrapinclingfilmandrestinthefridgeforaminimumof1hour.

USINGAFOODPROCESSORORANELECTRICMIXERWITHAPADDLE

Ataslowspeed,mixtheflour,butter,castersugarandsaltuntilthemixturehasasandytexture. Add the milk and egg yolk, and mix until it has an even consistency(a fewsecondsisgenerallyenough).

GOODTOKNOW

Therestingtimeinthefridgeisnecessary.Itrelaxesthepastry,makesiteasiertorolloutandstopsitfromshrinkingduringcooking.

Sweetpastry

LAPÂTESUCRÉE

Thissweetpastryissweeterthanthesweetshortcrustpastryandmainlyusedforblindbakedalmondcream,flanandchocolatetarts.

For500gofpastry/Preparationtime:15minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:1hour

[INGREDIENTS]

230gplainflour

1smallpinchofsalt


1mediumegg

55gcastersugar

BYHAND

1.Puttheflour,saltanddicedbutterontotheworksurface.

2.Useyourfingertipstocoateachpieceofbutterwithflour,then,withbothhands,workthemixtureuntilithasasandytexture.

3.Makeawellandputtheeggandcastersugarinitscentre.

4.Useyourfingertipstomixtheeggwiththecastersugar,thenincorporatetheflourmix,startingattheinsideofthewell,untilithasanevenconsistency.Donotoverwork–whenalltheingredientsarecombined,itisready.

5.Gatherthepastryintoarectangularshape(3cmthick)tomakeiteasiertorollout.Wrapinclingfilmandrestinthefridgeforaminimumof1hour.


Atslowspeed,mix the flour, salt, caster sugarandbutteruntil themixturehasa sandytexture.Addtheeggandmixuntilithasanevenconsistency(afewsecondsisgenerallyenough).Seethestep-by-stepphotosonpage7–themethodissimilar.

GOODTOKNOW

Thesweetshortcrustpastry,thesweetpastryandthesabléerecipesmake500gofpastry.For each 500g recipe, one egg is needed.A tart usually requires about 300g of pastry.Sinceitisdifficulttodivideanegg,Irecommendthefollowinglittletip:asrawpastrycanbefrozenwithoutdamage,youcandoublethebasicquantityofingredientsanddividethepastryintothreeparts.Keeponepartinthefridgeandfreezetheothertwoforlateruse.Whenneeded,defrost thepastryovernight in the fridgeand itwillbe ready foruse the

followingmorning.

Sabléepastry

LAPÂTESABLÉE

Crispyandcrumbly,sabléepastryisusedblindbakedforfreshfruits,creamandchocolatetartsortartlets.

For500gofpastry/Preparationtime:15minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:1hour

[INGREDIENTS]

260gplainflour

1smallpinchofsalt

120gicingsugar


1mediumegg


Seethestep-by-stepphotosonpage7

1.Atslowspeed,mixtheflour,salt,icingsugarandbutteruntilthemixturehasasandytexture.

2.Addtheegg.

3.Thenmixuntilithasanevenconsistency(afewsecondsisgenerallyenough).

4.Gatherthepastryintoarectangularshape(3cmhigh)andwrapitinclingfilm.Setinthefridgeforaminimumof1hour.

BYHAND

Seethestep-by-stepphotosforthesweetpastryonpage9–themethodissimilar.

1.Puttheflour,salt,icingsugaranddicedbutterontoaworksurface.

2. Use your fingertips to coat each piece of butter with the flourmix, then, with bothhands,workthemixtureuntilithasasandytexture.

3.Makeawellandaddtheeggtoitscentre.

4.Useyourfingertipstorubtheeggintotheflourmixuntilithasanevenconsistency.Donotoverwork–whenalltheingredientsarecombined,it’sready.

5.Gatherthepastryintoarectangularshape(3cmthick)tomakeiteasiertorollout.Wrapitinclingfilmandrestinthefridgeforaminimumof1hour.

Puffpastry

LAPÂTEFEUILLETÉE

FlakypastryorroughpuffpastryarecommonlyusedinsteadofpuffpastryinBritain.Theyconsistofdicedbuttercombinedwiththedoughandfoldedtogetherinsteadofa

blockofbutterfoldedinsidethedough.For1.3kgofpastry/Preparationtime:40minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:2½hours

INGREDIENTS

400gplainflour

100gwhitebreadflour(T55)

10gsalt

300mlwater

1teaspoonwhitewinevinegar

500gcoldbutter(2×250gpacks)

MakethedoughBYHAND

1.Sifttheplainflourandthewhitebreadflourontotheworksurfaceandmakeawellinthecentre.

2. Add the salt, water and white wine vinegar. (The vinegar will stop the pastry fromturninggreyafter24hoursinthefridge.)

3.Using your fingertips, gradually incorporate the flour, starting from the inside of thewell.

4.Whenthemixturethickens,useyourhandstobringittogetheruntilitformsadough.

5.Formaballwithoutkneading.Coverthedoughinclingfilmandstoreinthefridgefor30minutes.

Preparingthebutter

Seestep-by-stepphotosincroissantdoughrecipe(steps5and6),page17.

6.Layout2piecesofclingfilm(40×60cm)ontopofeachotherontheworksurface.

7. Put the butter in themiddle and fold over the cling film, leaving a gap between thebutter and the edgeof the cling film to allow the butter to spread.Use a rolling pin tomakeasquare1cmthick.

8.Storeflatinthefridgefor30minutes.

Foldingthepastry(6folds)

9.Removethebutterfromthefridgeandleaveittowarmupfor15minutes.Onaflouredworksurface,rolloutthedoughintoalargesquare(40×40cm)andputthebutterintoitscentre(seediagram1aopposite).

10.Wrap the butter by folding over the corners of the dough as shown in diagram 1bbelow.

Thefirst2folds(seediagram2aabove).

11.Onaflouredworksurface,rollouttoformarectanglethatmeasures30×60cm.

12.Removeexcessflourwithabrushorthepalmofyourhands.Foldthebottomsectionofthepastryintothemiddle(seediagram2babove).

13.Thenfoldthetopthirdontop(seediagram2cabove).

14.Rotatethepastry90°counter-clockwise(seediagram2dabove).You’vemadethefirstfold.

15.Repeatsteps11to14tomakethesecondfold.

16.Markthetoprightcornerwithtwofingerprints.Itwillhelpyourememberhowmanyfoldsyouhavemade.Wrapthepastryinclingfilmtopreventitdryingoutandplaceinthefridgefor30minutes.

The3rdand4thfolds

17.Take the pastry out of the fridge and place it on the flouredwork surfacewith theopening(marked inblack in thedrawing)onyour right-handside.Thiswillensure thatyoudonotundothefoldyoumadeearlier.Repeattheprocessforthefirst2folds.

18.Markthetop-rightcornerwith4fingerprintsandwrapitinclingfilm.Putthepastryinthefridgefor30minutes.

The5thand6thfolds

19.Take the pastry out of the fridge and place it on the flouredwork surfacewith theopeningonyourright-handside.Repeattheprocessforthefirsttwofoldsagain.

20.Wrapthepastryinclingfilmandplaceitinthefridgefor30minutesbeforeuse.

Chouxpastry

LAPÂTEÀCHOUX

ChouxpastryisusedinthemakingofindividualpastrieslikeChantillychoux,éclairsorprofiterolesandalsofamilycakeslikeParis-Brest,Saint-Honoréorcroquembouche.

Makes60largechouxor40éclairs(700gofpastry)/Preparationtime:20minutesBakingtime:15–20minutesat200°C/400°F/GasMark6+15–20minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3todryout.(Thebaking

timewillchangeaccordingtothesizeofthepieces.)

INGREDIENTS

250mlwater

100gbutter,diced

5gsalt

12gcastersugar

125gwhitebreadflour,sifted

4mediumeggs

1beatenegg,toglaze

BYHAND

1.Inasaucepan,bringthewater,dicedbutter,saltandsugartotheboiluntilthewaterandmeltedbutterarecombined.

2.Takethesaucepanofftheheatandaddalltheflour.Withaspatula,stirgentlyatfirst,thenvigorously,untiltheflourisfullyincorporated.

3.Putthesaucepanbackonthehob,atmediumheat,todryoutthemix.Keepstirringforabout30secondsuntilthemixtureisnolongerstickingtothesaucepanandthespatula.

4.Pourthemixintoalargebowlandstirintheeggsoneatatimewithaspatula.(Thisstepcanalsobedonewithanelectricmixerfittedwithapaddle.)

5. To check the consistency of the mixture, take out some pastry with the tip of thespatula:theendofthepastryshouldslidebackdownandformapeakstillattachedtothespatula.

6.Fillapipingbagfittedwitha largenozzleanduse thedoughstraightaway.Onnon-sticktrays,pipethechouxoréclairsinstaggeredrows.

7.Dipaforkorapastrybrushinthebeateneggandusetoleveloutthepastry.

8.Placearamekinfilledwith1cmofboilingwateratthebottomoftheovenandbakethechouxpastryinthecentre.Thefirst15minutesofbakingmustbedonewiththeovendoorclosedatalltimestoavoidtheriskofthechouxpastrycollapsing.

GOODTOKNOW

Thissmallamountofpastrywillmakealotofchoux.Youcaneitherdividetherecipeinhalformakeitallandfreezeanyexcess.Themixturecanbepipedontogreaseproofpaperandfrozenrawforlateruse.

Croissantdough

LAPÂTEÀCROISSANTS

Thecroissantdoughismadethesamewayasthepuffpastry.Butthecroissantdoughisricherandonly4foldsaremade.Itcanalsobeusedtomakealmondcroissants,painsau

chocolatorpainsauxraisins.For1.1kgofpastry/Preparationtime:45minutesRestingtimeinthefridge:overnightforthedough(12

hours)+1hour

INGREDIENTS

15gfreshyeast

275mlsemi-skimmedorfullfatmilk,atroomtemperature

500gwhitebreadflour

7.5gsalt

75gcastersugar

250gcoldbutter

USINGANELECTRICMIXERFITTEDWITHADOUGHHOOK

Thecroissantdoughcanalsobedonebyhandfollowingthepuff-pastrydoughmethodonpage12

Makethedough(Thisstepshouldbedonethedaybefore)

1.Dissolvethefreshyeastinthemilk.

2.Puttheflour,saltandcastersugarintothemixingbowl.

3.Turn themixer on at a slow speed, then slowlypour in themilkmixture.Mix for 5minutesuntilthedoughstartstocomeunstuckfromthebowl.

4.Remove thedough from themixingbowl andplace it in a lightlyoiledbowl.Coverwithclingfilmandleavetorestovernightinthefridge.

Preparethebutter(Thisstepshouldalsobedonethedaybefore)

5.Layout2piecesofclingfilm(40×60cm)ontopofeachotherontheworksurface.Iuse2piecesoffilmbecauseoneissimplynotenoughandyourisktearingtheclingfilm.Putthebutterinthemiddle.

6.Foldovertheclingfilm,leavingagapbetweenthebutterandtheedgeoftheclingfilmtoallowthebuttertospread.Usearollingpintomakeasquare1cmthick.

7.Storeflatinthefridgefor30minutes.

Foldingthedough(4folds)

8.The followingday, remove thebutter from the fridgeand leave it towarmup for15minutes.

9.Turnoverthedoughonalightlyflouredworksurfaceandremovethefermentationgas,pressing on the dough with the palms of your hands without kneading (kneading thedoughwillgiveitsomeelasticityandmakeithardertoroll).

10. Shape the dough into a square and roll out the 4 corners, leaving the middleuntouched.

11.Flattenthemiddleofthedoughwithyourhandsorusingtherollingpin,andplacethebutterinthecentre.

12.Wrapthebutterupbycoveringitwiththe4sidesofthedough.

Thefirst2folds(Seediagram2forthepuffpastry,page13)

13. On a floured work surface, roll out the dough into a long rectangle (40 × 60cm).Removetheexcessflourwithabrushorthepalmofyourhand.

14.Foldthebottomsectionofthedoughontothemiddlesection.

15.Thenfoldthetopthirdoverthetopandpressdowntheedges.

16.Makea90°counter-clockwiserotationofthedough.You’vejustmadethefirstfold.

17.Repeatsteps13to16tomakethesecondfold.

18.Markthetop-rightcornerwithtwofingerprints.Itwillhelpyourememberhowmanyfoldsyouhavemade.Wrapthedoughinclingfilmtopreventitdryingoutandputitinthefridgefor30minutes.

The3rdand4thfolds

19.Remove the pastry from the fridge and place it on a flouredwork surfacewith theopeningonyourright-handside.Thiswillensurethatyoudonotundothefoldyoumadeearlier.Repeatsteps13to17tomake2morefolds.

20.Markthetoprightcornerwith4fingerprintsandwrapthedoughinclingfilm.Putitinthefridgefor30minutesbeforeuse.

GOODTOKNOW

Therestingtimeovernightinthefridgeallowsthedoughtoprove(rise)anddevelopmoreflavour. The yeast will notmake the dough rise right away, especially if placed in thefridge:itneedsatleast1or2hoursatroomtemperatureorovernightinthefridgeforthedough todoubleup in size.Theyeast feeds itselfon sugarspresent in the starchof theflour.Asaresult,itconvertsthesugarsintocarbondioxideandethanol,whichmakesthedoughrise.Thatalcoholicfermentationchangesthetasteofthedoughandwillbringmoreflavourstothefinalproduct.

Briochedough

LAPÂTEÀBRIOCHE

Thebriochedoughisarisingdough.Itislightandslightlysweet.Itcanbeshapedintomanydifferentformsandholdallsortsofflavours(pinkpraline,chocolateormixedpeel).

Makes600gofdough/Preparationtime:20minutes/Provingtime:2–3hoursinawarmplaceorovernightinfridge/Restingtime:1½hoursinthefridge(ifprovedinawarmplacefirst)

INGREDIENTS

10gfreshyeast



5gsalt

12gcastersugar

3smalleggs,atroomtemperature(150g)

125gsoftbutter

USINGANELECTRICMIXERFITTEDWITHADOUGHHOOK

The step-by-step photos are for a double recipe, the paddle is more appropriate for asinglerecipe


2.Puttheflour,salt,castersugarandeggsintothebowlofthemixer.

3.Addthemilkandyeast,andworkthemixfor10minutesatslowspeed.

4. Incorporate the soft butter andwork the dough until it has an even consistency andcomesunstuckfromthesurfaceofthebowl.

5.With kitchenpaper, grease a large bowlwith little oil (olive or vegetable). Place thedoughinthemiddleandcoverthebowlwithawetclothorclingfilm,thencontinuewitheithermethod1or2below.

6.Method1–Thebriochedoughcanbemadethedaybeforeuse.

Aftercoveringit,placeitinthefridgeandleavetoproveslowlyovernight.Thefollowingday, turnover thedoughonaflouredworksurfaceandremovethefermentationgasbypressingonthedoughwiththepalmsofyourhands(withoutkneading).Thedoughisnowreadytouse.

Method 2 – Prove the dough in awarm place (20–25°C) until it doubles in size (2–3hours depending of the temperature of the ingredients and the room). Remove the

fermentationgasbyfoldingitonaflouredworksurface.Putthedoughbackinthebowl,coverandputinthefridgeforaminimumof1½hoursbeforeuse.

THEBRIOCHEMIXISQUITEWETANDSTICKYBUTCANBEMADEBYHAND

Dissolvethefreshyeastinthemilk.Onaworksurface,sifttheflour,saltandsugar.Makea well and put the eggs then the milk and fresh yeast mix into its centre. With yourfingertips,mixtheliquidstogether,thengraduallyincorporatetheflourstartingfromthemiddleofthewell.Gatherthemixturetogetherandworkitwithbothhandsbystretchingitupanddownontheworksurfacetogiveitsomeelasticity.Finally,spreadoutthedoughontheworksurfaceusingyourfingertips(20×30cm)anddistributethedicedsoftbutter.Incorporateitbyfoldingthedoughoverthebutterandpushingitdown.Repeatthisactionseveraltimesuntilthereisanevenconsistency.Then,followsteps5and6.

GOODTOKNOW

Fresh yeast is fragile; if it makes direct contact with the salt or sugar it will die andbecomeinactive.Whenaddedtothedoughmixture,theyeastmustbecombinedstraightaway.Paradoxically,sugarcombinedwith liquid(milkorwater)canbeused toactivatetheyeastifonlyleftincontactforashortperiodoftime.

Savarindough

LAPÂTEÀSAVARIN

Thesavarindoughiswetandsticky.It’susedinthemakingofbabasandsavarins.Afterbakingtheyarelightanddry,andarethensoakedinasyrupusuallyflavouredwithaspirit

suchasrumorkirsch.Makes1large(18cm)or16individualsavarins(7cm)(500gofdough)/Preparationtime:20minutes/Provingtime:1hour/Bakingtime:Foralargesavarin,30–40minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4/For

individualsavarins,10–12minutesat200°C/400°F/GasMark6

INGREDIENTS

10gfreshyeast


225gwhitebreadflour

5gsalt

20gcastersugar

2½mediumeggs

50gsoftbutter

WITHANELECTRICMIXERFITTEDWITHADOUGHHOOK

The step-by-step photos are for a double recipe, the paddle is more appropriate for asinglerecipe.

1.Dissolvethefreshyeastinthemilk

2.Put theflour,salt, sugarandeggs into themixingbowl.Add themilkandyeast,andworkthemixfor10minutesatslowspeed.

3.Addthesoftbutterandcontinuetoworkthedoughforacoupleofminutesatthesamespeed,untilitcomesunstuckfromthesurfaceofthebowl.

4.Greasethesavarinmould(s)withbutterandflour.Removetheexcessflourbyknockingthemould(s)ontheworksurface.

5.Fillthemould(s)withdoughtoone-thirdusingateaspoon,tablespoonorapipingbagfittedwithamedium-sizednozzle.

6.Leave torise inawarmplace(25–35°C)forabout1houruntil thedoughdoubles insize.

7. Bake the savarin(s), checking on them while cooking, until they are evenly goldenbrown.Turnoutandcoolonawireracktoavoidcondensation.

THEDIFFERENCEBETWEENBABASANDSAVARINS

Babasandsavarinsaremadefromthesamedoughandbotharesoakedinasyrup.Babascancontainraisins,buton thewhole it’s theirdifferentshapes thatdeterminewhat theyare called. Savarins are a crown shape and are generally served with fruits, crèmepâtissière or Chantilly cream. Babas are cooked in individual cylinders and normallyservedwithwhippedcream.

Génoisesponge

LAPÂTEÀGÉNOISE

Extremelylightandbutter-free,thegénoisespongeisusedtomakedifferentkindsofcakesorgateaus.Butitcansimplybeenjoyedonitsown,withahomemadecrème

anglaiseandastrawberrysalad.Makes500g/Preparationtime:20minutesBakingtime:25–30minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3

INGREDIENTS

4mediumeggs

125gcastersugar

seedsof1vanillapod(optional)

125gplainflour,sifted

BYHANDWITHAWHISKORWITHANELECTRICMIXERFITTEDWITHAWHISKATTACHMENT

1.Greasea20cmcaketinwithbutteranddustwithflour.Turnitoverandknockitontheworksurfacetoremoveexcessflour.

2.Inalargebowl,whisktheeggswiththecastersugar(andthevanillaseedsifused)for1–2minutesuntilthemixturestartstowhiten.

3. Put the bowl over a bain-marie (see box) and whisk vigorously by hand withoutstopping until the mix reaches 40–45°C (the temperature of a hot bath). Use athermometeroryourfingertiptocheck.

4.Removethebowlfromthebain-marieandpourthewarmeggandcaster-sugarmixtureinto the bowl of an electricmixer, if using.Make a sabayon bywhisking atmaximumspeed for 10–15minutes, until themix cools down and thickens.This step can also bedonebyhand.

5.Byhandwithaspatula,combine the flourwith thesabayon in4or5additions.Thiswillhelptoavoidlumpswithoutoverworkingthesponge.

6.Fillthemouldwiththemixtureandbakethegénoisestraightaway.Turnoutandcoolonawireracktoavoidcondensation.

Howtomakeabain-marieOnthehob:Filla largesaucepanwith3cmofwater.Bringitup to80°C; thewatershouldbesimmering,notboiling.Placeaheatproofbowlontopofthesaucepanwithouttouchingthewaterbeneath.Abain-marielikethisisusedtoslowlymeltchocolateortowarmupaneggmix.

In theoven: Baking in a bain-marie is a technique used for cooking a crème brûlée, acrème caramel or eggwhites inside a tray (5cmdepth) filledwithboilingwater (2cm).

The temperature of the oven can vary between 110°C/225°F/GasMark ¼ for a crèmebrûlée to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4 for the floating islands’ egg whites. With thistechnique, you can bake a crème brûlée, crème caramel or poach an eggwhite slowly.However, thebakingmustbecontrolledas it ispossible toovercook thecreamsoreggwhites.

Crèmeanglaise

CrèmeanglaiseistheFrenchversionofanEnglishcustard.Itcanbeservedcoldorwarmwithapudding,acakeorafruitsalad;itcanalsobechurnedtomakeanicecreamorused

tomakedessertslikefloatingislandsorbavaroiscreams.Serves:8–10(400gofcream)/Preparationtime:15minutes/Cookingtime:5minutesCoolingtime:30

minutes

INGREDIENTS

4eggyolks

55gcastersugar

125mlfullfatorsemi-skimmedmilk

175mlfreshdoublecream

1vanillapod(openedandscraped)or1teaspoonofvanillaextract


1.Puttheeggyolksandcastersugarintoalargebowlandwhiskfor3minutes.

2. In a saucepan, bring to the boil the milk, double cream and vanilla pod and seeds,stirringoccasionally.

3.Whilewhisking,pourhalftheboilingliquidontopoftheeggmix,startingwithasmallquantitytostoptheyolkfromcoagulating.

4.Transferthemixturebacktothepanwhilestirring.

5.Cookthecrèmeanglaiseoveramediumheatto85°C.Stirwithaspatulabymakingafigureof8shape;thewhitefoamwilldisappear.Ifyoudon’thaveathermometeryouwillknowitisreadywhenthecreamisthickenoughtoleaveafingermarkonthespatula.

6.Pourthecreamintoabowlthroughaveryfinesieve.

7.Stop itcookingbyplacing thebowlofcrèmeanglaise intoanother largerbowl filledwith icedwater, and stir for30 seconds.Cool at room temperature for30minutes thencoverwithclingfilmandkeepinthefridge.

GOODTOKNOW

Once the egg yolks and sugar are both in a bowl, mix together right away. This willpreventtheyolksfromcoagulatingandforminglumps.

If thecreamreachesa temperaturehigher than85°C, itmight start tocurdle. If thishappens, the crème anglaise can be brought back together bywhisking it energeticallyoverabowlfilledwithicedwater.

Crèmepâtissière

ThecrèmepâtissièreisathickcustardusedinFrenchpâtisserietofilltarts,cakesandpastries.Itcanbeplainorbeflavouredwithvanilla,coffee,chocolate,GrandMarnieror

praline,forexample.Makes450gofcream/Preparationtime:15minutes/Cookingtime:5minutesRestingtimeinthe

fridge:2hours

INGREDIENTS

4eggyolks

50gcastersugar

25gplainflour




1.Puttheeggyolksandsugarintoalargebowlandwhiskfor3minutes.Addtheflourandwhisktocombine.

2. In a saucepan, bring to the boil the milk with the vanilla pod and seeds, stirringoccasionally.

3.Removethepanfromtheheat,pourtheeggmixtureontopoftheboilingliquidandstirwithahandwhisk.

4.Putthemixtureontheheatandbringtotheboilatmediumheat.Whiskinginafigureof8shape,cookthecrèmepâtissièrefor1minuteatthesametemperatureonceitstartstoboil,tocookofftheflour.

5.Pourthecreamintoalargebowlthroughaveryfinesieve(usealargebowlbecausethecrèmeneedstocooldownquickly).

6.Putalayerofclingfilmoverthetop,indirectcontactwiththesurfaceofthecreamtopreventtheformationofacrust.Coolinthefridgeforaminimumof2hoursbeforeuse.

GOODTOKNOW

Usethecrèmepâtissièrewithin2days,asafterthisitwillstarttoloseitsflavour.

Almondcream

LACRÈMED’AMANDE

Thisalmondcreamisusedtofilltartsorpuffcakesandmustbebakedtogetherwiththepastry.Followingthesamemethod,thecreamcanbemadewithdifferentsortsofnut

powderssuchaspistachioorhazelnut.Makes420gofcream/Preparationtime:10minutes

INGREDIENTS

90ggroundalmonds

25gplainflour

110gsoftbutter,diced

110gcastersugar

seedsof1vanillapodor1teaspoonofvanillaoralmondextract

2mediumeggs

BYHANDWITHASPATULAORWITHANELECTRICMIXERFITTEDWITHAPADDLE

1.Sifttogetherthegroundalmondsandplainflour.

2. In a mixing bowl, beat together the butter, sugar and vanilla seeds or extract untilcreamy.

3.Addthegroundalmondsandflourtothebuttermixtureandstirtocombine.

4.Scrapetheinsideofthebowlwithaspatulatobringthemixbacktogetherinthecentre.

5.Add1egg,thensmooththemixtureagainstthesideofthebowltoavoidlumps.Addthesecondeggandcombinewell.

GOODTOKNOW

Thealmondcreamwillbeeasiertospreadifusedstraightaway.Itcanalsobekeptinthefridgebutshouldberemoved30minutesbeforeuse.

Thevanillapods,whenonlytheseedshavebeenusedlikeinthealmondcreamorthegénoisesponge,canbekeptandreused.Forexample,makeavanillasugarbyplacingthevanilla pods in a jarwith some caster or granulated sugar.You could also use them toflavourasyrup,afruitcompoteoracream.

Buttercream

LACRÈMEAUBEURRE

Frenchbuttercreamismadewithacookedsugarwhichmakesitsmooth,lightandverycreamy.Itisusedtofillcakesandpastries,andcanbeflavouredwithvanilla,chocolate,

spiritsornutpaste.Makes550gofcream/Preparationtime:35minutes/Cookingtime:5minutesYouwillneed:asugar

thermometerorprobe

INGREDIENTS

250gsoftbutter

1mediumegg

4mediumeggyolks

65gcoldwater

200gcastersugar

2vanillapods,openedandscraped(optional,accordingtoeachrecipe)

WITHANELECTRICMIXERFITTEDWITHAWHISK

Thisrecipecanalsobedonebyhandfollowingthesamemethod.

1.With an electricmixer set atmedium speed,work the butter until it is very soft andcreamy. Alternatively, leave it out at room temperature 4 hours before making thebuttercream.

2.Inamixingbowl,beattheeggandyolksfor1minute.

3.Heatthewaterandsugarinasaucepanuntil120°C.Atthistemperaturethesyrupmustneverbetouchedwithbarehandsandmustbehandledwithgreatcare.

4.Setthemixeratslowspeedandpourtheheatedsugarontotheeggswithouttouchingthewhisk.Donotpourittooslowlyoritwillcooldownandformsugarlumps.Turnthespeed up and keep whisking until the mixture cools down. This step will take 15–20minutes.

5.Flavourthecreamwiththevanillaseeds,ifusing.

6.When themix has cooled, turn down the speed to low and add the very soft butterslowlytothemix,in3or4batches.

7. Finally, turn the speed back up to high for 30 seconds to make sure that all theingredientsaremixedwelltogether.

GOODTOKNOW

With this type of cream, there is always the risk of the mixture curdling. If this doeshappen,youcansave thecreambywhisking it ataveryhighspeed. If itdoesn’tcomebacktogether,placethebuttercreaminthefridgefor15minutesifit’stoowarm,orwarmupthebowlwithablowtorchoroverabain-marie(seepage24)forafewsecondsifit’stoocold,beforewhiskingagain.Asalastresort,someextrasoftbuttercanbeadded.

Chantillycream

LACRÈMECHANTILLY

Thisisareallyeasyandquickcreamtomakeatthelastminute.Itcanbeservedwithafruitsaladoricecream,orusedtodecorateacake.Itcanalsobepouredonthetopofa

cupofcoffeeorhotchocolate.Makes300gofcream/Preparationtime:5minutes

INGREDIENTS


20gcastersugar


1.Putthedoublecreaminthefridgefor2hours; itneedstobeatatemperatureof4°C(coldfromthefridge)inorderforittoriseproperly.

2.Inalargebowl,whiskthecreamathighspeedintheelectricmixer,orvigorouslybyhand,toincorporatesomeair.

3.Whenthecreamstartstorise,sprinklethecastersugaronthetop.

4.Keepworking the creamuntil it firms and forms a peak.Note that a softlywhippedcream is called a whipped cream (photo 4a opposite); a firmly whipped cream is aChantilly(photo4b).

GOODTOKNOW

TheChantillycreamcanbekeptinthefridgeforafewhoursbeforeitstartstocollapse.Afterthis,itmightneedtobewhippedasecondtimebeforeuse.

Frenchmeringue

LAMERINGUEFRANÇAISE

AFrenchmeringueismadeofuncookedcastersugarandeggwhites.It’susedinthemakingofcakes,creamsormacaroons.Thequantityofsugarcanvaryaccordingtoeach

recipe.Makes320gofmeringue/Preparationtime:10minutes

INGREDIENTS

3eggwhites(120g)

200gcastersugar


1.Whisktheeggwhitesatmediumspeeduntiltheystarttorise.

2.Graduallyaddthecastersugar,in2or3batches.

3.Whisk themeringueuntil it firms and formsapeakwhenyou lift up thewhisk (seepage37).

GOODTOKNOW

Eggwhitescanbekeptforafewdaysinthefridge.Irecommendyouuseatleast3-day-old egg whites (if you have them) when making a French meringue such as for amacaroonmix(seepages226–232).Thewhippedeggwhiteswillhavemorevolumeandthefinalmixwillbelighter.

However,thisdoesn’tapplytoanuncookedmixmadefromFrenchmeringueliketheSaint-Honorécream(seepage130).Inthiscase,theeggwhitesmustbefreshandthemixshouldnotbekeptinthefridgeformorethanhalfaday.

Italianmeringue

LAMERINGUEITALIENNE

AnItalianmeringueismadeofcookedsugarpouredontopofwhippedeggwhites.Thecookedsugarwillpartiallycooktheeggwhites,andmakesitlessfragilethanaFrench

meringue.Makes320gmeringue/Preparationtime:15minutes/Cookingtime:5minutesYouwillalsoneed:A

sugarthermometerorprobeisnecessaryforthisrecipe

INGREDIENTS

170gcastersugar

85mlwater

3eggwhites(120g)

BYHANDWITHAWHISKORWITHANELECTRICMIXERFITTEDWITHAWHISK

1.Inasaucepan,heatthecastersugarandwaterto120°C.Checkthetemperaturewithasugarthermometeroraprobe.Atthistemperaturethesyrupmustneverbetouchedwithbarehandsandmustbehandledwithgreatcare.

2.Whisktheeggwhitesatmediumspeeduntilsoftpeaksform(seebox).Setthemixerataslowspeedandpourthecookedsugarontotheeggswithouttouchingthewhisk.Donotpourittooslowlyoritwillcooldownandformsugarlumpsinthemix.

3.Whisk the meringue for a fewminutes until it starts to cool and form a peak. Usestraightaway.

GOODTOKNOW

Whiskingeggwhites,eitherwhenmakingacakeorameringue,mustalwaysbedoneatmediumspeed:theairbubblesinsidethewhippedeggwhiteswillbemoreevenandlessfragilewhenyoucombinethemwithotheringredients.

ThestagesofbeateneggwhitesNopeaks:Theeggwhitesarefoamybutnotbeatenenoughtoholdontothewhisk.

Softpeak:Thepeaksare just starting toholdwhenyou turn thewhiskupsidedown,but theywillmeltbackdownafterafewseconds.

Peakorfirmpeak:Thebeateneggwhitesholdfirmlyonawhiskturnedupsidedownandthetipofthepeakfallsbackdown.

Stiffpeak:Thetipofthepeakstandsstraightuponawhiskturnedupsidedown.

Overbeaten:Theeggwhiteswillbecomegrainyandcollapsebackonthemselves.Theycanbeusedbutitwillshow:themixwillstaygrainyanditwillnotriseverywell.

CHAPTER1

Sweetshortcrustpastry

LAPÂTEBRISÉESUCRÉE

Howtolineatarttin

(ortartlettins)

1.Sprinklesomeflourontheworksurfaceandthepastry.

2.Rolloutthepastrytoathicknessof3mm.Keepmovingittostopitstickingtotheworksurface,addingalittlemoreflourifnecessary.

3.Putthetarttinoverthepastryandtrimtheexcesswithaknife.(Fortartlettins,useasmallplateorabowlturnedupsidedown,slightlywiderthanthetin,andcutthepastryallthewayarounditwithaknife.)

4. Check the thickness and the regularity of the pastry/pastries, and roll it out again ifnecessary.

5.Removetheexcessflouronthetopwithabrushorwithyourfingertips.Foldthepastryover the rollingpinandunroll it upsidedownon topof the tart tin. (For the tartlet tin,brushtheflouroffonbothsidesofthepastrybasesandplacethemoverthetartlettins.)

6.Lowerthepastryintothetin,thengentlypressitintotheedgeswithyourfingertipstolinethebaseandsides.

7.Gather together the leftover pastry to form a small ball, coat itwith flour and pressalongthesideofthetartcasetosecureitsposition.(Proceedthesamewaywiththetartletbases.)

8.Removetheexcesspastrywithaknifeorarollingpin.

Appleandcinnamontart

TARTEAUXPOMMESETÀLACANNELLE

Thereissomethingtimelessaboutappleandcinnamon,Ijustloveit.Thistartissimpleanddelicious;it’stheperfectSundaylunchdessertforallthefamily.

Serves10(28cmtart)/Preparationtime:1hourBakingtime:1–1hour10at180°C/350°F/GasMark4/Youwillneeda28cmtarttin

INGREDIENTS

500gsweetshortcrustpastry(seepage6)

Fortheapplecompote

3mediumBramleyapples

20gbutter

100–120gcastersugar,totaste

50mlwater

1cinnamonstickor½teaspoongroundcinnamon

Fortheappletopping

6–8Cox(orBraeburn)apples

½lemon

Fortheglaze

20gbutter

40gclearhoney

1pinchofgroundcinnamon

1.Makethesweetshortcrustpastryandrestinthefridgefor1hour.

2.Meanwhile,peel,coreanddicetheBramleyapples.Inapansetoveralowheat,makeacompote with the diced apples, butter, sugar, water and cinnamon stick or groundcinnamon.Bringtotheboilandstirregularly.Simmerfor15minutesuntilthefruitsarecooked.Coolatroomtemperature.

3.Peel,cutinhalfandcoretheCoxorBraeburnapples.Puttheminabowl,squeezeoverafewdropsoflemonjuiceandmixbyhand.

4.Rollouttheshortcrustpastryto4mmthickandlinethetarttin(seepage42).Spreadthecoldcompoteover thebase,cut theapplehalvesinto2mmslicesandusetogarnishthe

tartincircles.

5.Bakethetartfor40–45minutes,thencoveritwithfoiltoprotectthefruitsandcontinuebakingforanother20–25minutes.Removethefoilandcoolthetartinthetin.

6. Inasmall saucepansetovera lowheat,warmup thebutter,clearhoneyandgroundcinnamon.Glazethetartwiththewarmmixtureusingapastrybrush.

Mymother’srhubarbtart

TARTEÀLARHUBARBEDEMAMAN

Mymother’srhubarbtartisauniqueadventurefortherhubarblover.Attention,dangerofaddiction!

Serves10(28cmtart)/Preparationtime:30+20minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:1hourBakingtime:1–1hour10at180°C/350°F/GasMark4/Youwillneeda28cmtarttin

INGREDIENTS


5gbakingpowder

Forthefilling

700grhubarb

260gcastersugar

20mlmilk

1.Maketheshortcrustpastryfollowingthemethodonpage6,mixingthebakingpowderwiththeflour.Restinthefridgefor1hour.

2.Wash,peelandcuttherhubarbintostripstheninto2cmbatons.

3.Rolloutthepastrytoathicknessof4mmandusetolinethetarttin(seepage42).

4. Cover the bottom of the pastry basewith 120g of the caster sugar, add the rhubarbbatonsandsprinkleanother100gofcastersugarontop.

5.Gathertheleftoverpastryintoaballandrollitoutto3mm.Brushwithathinlayerofmilk,sprinkleoveralittlemoresugar(40g)andcutoutsomestripstodecoratethetartinalatticepattern.

6.Bakethetartfor40–45minutes,thencoverwithfoiltoprotectthefruitsandcontinuebakingforanother20–25minutes.Removethefoilandcoolthetartinthetin.

CHEF’STOPTIP

Thisrecipecanalsobemadewithhalftheamountofrhubarbmixedwith2dicedBramleyapples.

Greengagetart

TARTEAUXREINES-CLAUDES

Thisrecipecanbemadewithallkindsofplums(mirabelle,purple,red,Victoria)orstonefruits(apricots,peaches,cherries).Thequantityofsugarneededwillvaryaccordingtothe

acidityofthefruits.Themoreacidthefruithasthemoresugaryourtartwillneed.Serves10(28cmtart)/Preparationtime:30+10minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:1hourBaking

time:1–1hour10at180°C/350°F/GasMark4/Youwillneeda28cmtarttin

INGREDIENTS


5gbakingpowder

Forthefilling

700ggreengages

90gcastersugar,totaste

1eggyolk


2.Wash,cutinhalfandstonethegreengages.

3.Rolloutthepastryto4mmandusetolinethetarttin(seepage42).

4.Sprinkle60gofthecastersugarontothepastry,fillthetartwiththehalvedgreengages(cutsideup).Brushwithathinlayerofeggyolkandsprinkleanother30gofcastersugaroverthetop.

5.Bakethetartfor40–45minutes,thencoveritupwithfoiltoprotectthefruitsandfinishoffthebakingforanother20–25minutes.Removethefoilandcoolthetartinthetin.

Howtoblindbakeapastrybase

1.Linethetarttinwithpastry(seepage51)andrestinthefridgefor30minutes(orplaceitinthefreezerfor10minutes).Brushtheflouroffthepastrybaseusingyourfingertipsorabrush.

2.Coverthepastrybasewithbakingpaperorafewlayersofheat-resistantclingfilmandplaceitgentlyinsidethelinedtarttin.

3.Fillthetartcasewithbakingbeansorrice/driedbeans(I’vebeenusingthesameshortgrain rice for years). Blind bake for 35–45 minutes at 160°C/325°F/GasMark 3. Thethicknessofthepastrywilldeterminethebakingtime.

4.Allow10minutestocool,thenremovethebakingbeansusingalargespoon.Removethebakingpaperorclingfilm.

5.Putthetartcasebackintheovenforanextra5–10minuteswithoutthebakingbeanstoevenupthecolour.Thecentreofthepastrymustbealightgoldenbrown.

Alsatianappletart

TARTEALSACIENNEAUXPOMMES

AnAlsatiantartiscomposedofacustardfillingandfruits.AnykindofapplescanbeusedforanAlsatianappletart.Otherfruitssuchaspears,prunes,mirabellesorgreengagescan

alsobeused.Serves10(24cmhigh-sidedtart)/Preparationtime:30+20minutesRestingtimeinthefridge:1hour+30minutesBakingtime:35–45+5–10+4minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3forthepastrybase,30–40

minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3withthefilling/Youwillneeda24cmhigh-sidedtarttin

INGREDIENTS


1beatenegg

Forthecustardfilling

1eggyolk

2mediumeggs

50gcastersugar

1vanillapod(openedandscraped)or1teaspoonvanillaextract

200mlmilk


5Cox(orBraeburn)apples(900g)

1.Makethesweetshortcrustpastryfollowingthemethodonpage6andrestinthefridgefor1hour.

2.Linethetarttinwiththepastry(seepage42)andputitinthefridgefor30minutes.

3.Blindbakethepastrybase(seepage50)andleavetocool.

4. Carefully brush the pastry base with the beaten egg. Put it back in the oven for 4minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3,removeandbrushitasecondtime.

5.Tomake the filling,whisk together theeggyolk,eggs,caster sugarandvanilla, thenaddthemilkandcream.Passthemixthroughaveryfinesieve.

6.Peel,cutinhalfandcoretheCoxorBraeburnapples.Cuteachhalfinto3or4piecesaccordingtotheirsize.Laythemonthepastrybaseandpouroverthecustardtocover⅔ofthefruit.

7.Bakethetartuntilthecustardissetandgoldenbrownontop.Coolatroomtemperature

inthetin.

Parisianflantart

FLANPARISIEN

ThisisaclassicdessertthatyoucanfindinmostpâtisserieshopsinFrance.A‘flan’canbestbedescribeasasetcustard.Flanpowderistraditionallyusedbypastrychefsand

bakersbutit’squitehardtofindinregularshops.I’vereplaceditwithcornflourhereforaverysimilarresult.

Serves10(28cmtart)/Preparationtime:30+15minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:1hour+30minutes/Bakingtime:35–45+5–10+4minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3forthepastrybase,30–40

minutesat140°C/275°F/GasMark1withthefilling/Youwillneeda28cmtarttin

INGREDIENTS


1beatenegg

Forthecustardfilling



4mediumeggs

75gcastersugar

30gcornflour

1.Makethesweetshortcrustpastryfolowingthemethodonpage6,andrestinthefridgefor1hour.

2.Linethetarttin(seepage42)withthepastryandputitinthefridgefor30minutes.

3.Bakeblindthepastrybase(seepage50)andleavetocool.

4. Carefully brush the pastry base with the beaten egg. Put it back in the oven for 4minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3,removeandbrushitasecondtime.

5.Tomakethecustardfilling,bringthemilkandvanillatotheboil.Inalargebowl,whisktogethertheeggsandsugar,thenaddthecornflourandpourintheboilingmilk.Passthemixturethroughaveryfinesieve.

6.Placethepastrybaseintheovenandfilltothetopwiththecustardmixusingajugoraladle.Baketheflanuntilitissetandgoldenbrownontop.Coolitatroomtemperatureinthetin.

Blueberryandlemontart

TARTEAUXMYRTILLESCITRONNÉES

BlueberriesarecommonberriesintheareainFrancewhereIcomefrom.Iusedtopickthemwithmysisterswhenwewerelittle,andmymotherwouldmakeallsortsof

deliciousjams,compotesandtartsfromthem.Myblueberryandlemontartwasinspiredbythesememories.

Serves10(28cmtart)/Preparationtime:30+15minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:1hourBakingtime:1hourat180°C/350°F/GasMark4withthefruitfilling,10minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3withthe

lemoncream/Youwillneeda28cmtarttin

INGREDIENTS


5gbakingpowder

Forthefruitfilling

5punnetsofblueberries(125geach)

120gcastersugar,totaste

Forthelemoncream

1mediumegg,separated

25gcastersugar

zestandjuiceof½lemon


2.Linethetarttinwiththepastry(seepage42).

3. Sprinkle 80g caster sugar over the pastry base and cover itwith the blueberries andanother40gcastersugar.

4.Bakethetartfor40–45minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4,thencoveritupwithfoiltoprotectthefruitsandcontinuetobakeforanother15–20minutes.Removethetartfromtheovenanduncoverit,thenturntheheatdownto160°C/325°F/GasMark3.

5.Tomakethelemoncream,whisktheeggwhitetoapeak(seepage38)usinganelectricmixer.Inabowl,whisktheeggyolkwiththecastersugarfor2minutesuntilitwhitens.Foldintheeggwhiteandaddthezestandlemonjuice.

6.Spreadoutthelemoncreamontopoftheblueberrytartandputthetartbackintheovenfor10minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3.Coolinthetin.

CHEF’STOPTIP

ServewithplainGreekyoghurt,Greekyoghurticecreamoraspoonfulofcrèmefraîche.

CHAPTER2

Sweetpastry

LAPÂTESUCRÉE

Caramelizedlemontart

TARTECARAMÉLISÉEAUCITRON

ThisrecipecomesfromNicoLadenis’restaurantChezNico,andwasbroughttoHistoricSussexHotelsbyMartinHaddenwhenhebecameexecutivechef.Overtheyears,ithasbecomethehousedessertatOckendenManor,whichheadchefStephenCraneandmyself

areproudtohaveonthemenu.Serves12(24cmhigh-sidedtart)/Preparationtime:30+20minutesRestingtimeinthefridge:1hour+

30minutes/Restingtimeatroomtemperature:4hoursBakingtime:35–40+5–10minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3forthepastrybase,40minutesto1hourat110°C/225°F/GasMark¼inastatic

oven(fanoff)withthefillingYouwillneeda24cmhigh-sidedtarttin

INGREDIENTS

500gsweetpastry(seepage8)

1beatenegg

Forthelemoncream

9mediumeggs

4largelemons

250gcastersugar

700gfreshdoublecream

40gcastersugartocaramelize

1.Makethesweetpastryfollowingthemethodonpage8,andrestinthefridgefor1hour.

2.Linethetarttinwiththepastry(seepage42)andreturntothefridgefor30minutes.

3.Bakeblindthepastrybase(seepage50)andcool.

4. Carefully brush the pastry base with the beaten egg. Put it back in the oven for 4minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3,thenbrushitasecondtime.Setthebaseaside,turntheoventemperaturedownto110°C/225°F/GasMark¼andswitchoffthefan.

5. For the lemon cream, break the eggs into a large bowl and beat themwith awhisk.Gratethinlythezestof3lemonsandmixwiththejuiceof4lemons.Put200goflemonmix (zest and juice), together with the caster sugar, in a saucepan, and the cream inanother.Bringbothpanstotheboilsimultaneously,stirringoccasionally.Whilewhisking,pourtheboilinglemonmixontopofthebeateneggfollowedbytheboilingcream.Passthelemoncreamthroughaveryfinesieveandskimthesurfacewithaladle.

6.Fillthetartbaseevenlywiththelemoncreamusingasmalljugand/oraladle.Placethetartbaseintheoven(110°C/225°F/GasMark¼,nofan,lowshelf).Cookthelemoncream

for40minutesto1hour.Startcheckingafter35minutesandthenevery5minutesuntilit’s cooked.The cream should be set like a jelly, gentlymoving in themiddle.Cool atroomtemperatureforaminimumof4hours.

7.Cut the lemon tartwithasharpknife.Warmup thebladeusingablowtorchora jugfilledwith boilingwater. Slice the tart and place on a large tray. Sprinkle some castersugaronthetopofeachslice,removetheexcessusingyourindexfingerandcaramelizethemwithablowtorch.Servewithin15minuteswithblackcurrentsorbet.

CHEF’STOPTIP

Thewhitepartofthelemonpeelisbitter.Gratethesurfaceofthelemonzestcarefullytoremoveonlytheyellowpart.

Howtomakeadarkchocolatemoussefilling

1.Putthechoppedchocolate(orchocolatepistoles)andthebutterinabowl.

2.Eithermelttheminthemicrowaveatamediumpowerfor1minute,thencheckandstirwith a spatula. Repeat this step every 30 seconds until both aremelted. Ormelt themslowlyinaheatproofbowlsetoverapanofsimmeringwater(abain-marie,seepage24).

3.Leavetocoolfor15minutesatroomtemperature.

4.Meanwhile,makeasabayonbywhiskingtogethertheeggs,eggyolksandcastersugarwithanelectricmixerfor15minutes.Thesabayonwillbe3timesbiggerinvolumeandverylight.Itmustbeusedstraightaway.

5. Pour themelted chocolate andbutter over the sabayon and combine using a spatula,making a circular movement from the bottom upwards with the spatula in one hand,givingaquarterturntothebowlwiththeother.

6.Repeatthisstepuntilthechocolatemousseismixed.Donotoverworkittopreserveitslightness.Usestraightawaytofillthetartortartlets.

Deliciouslylightchocolatetart

TARTEAUCHOCOLATDÉLICIEUSEMENTLÉGÈRE

ThistartisaclassicdessertofOckendenManor.Itwillmakeallyourthoughtsaboutchocolatedessertsbeingtooheavyflyoutthewindow.Enjoyitatroomtemperatureto

preserveitslightnessand–myadvice–hidetherestofit!Serves12(24cmhigh-sidedtart)/Preparationtime:30+20minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:1hour

+30minutes/Bakingtime:35–45+5–10minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3forthepastrybase.15minutesat120°C/250°F/GasMark1/2withthechocolatemoussefillingCoolingtimeatroomtemperature:

4hours/Youwillneeda24cmhigh-sidedtarttin

INGREDIENTS

500gsweetpastry

(seepage8)

Darkchocolatemoussefilling

340gdarkchocolate(55%),chopped

210gbutter

4mediumeggs

4eggyolks

60gcastersugar



3.Bakeblindthepastrybasefor35–40minutes(seepage50),thencarefullyremovethebaking beans using a tablespoon and continue baking for about an extra 5–10minutesuntil the pastry is evenly golden brown. Turn the oven temperature down to120°C/250°F/GasMark½.

4.Whilethepastrybaseiscooling,makethechocolatemoussefilling(seepage62).

5.Fillthepastrybasewiththechocolatemousseandbakeitstraightaway.

6.Leave it to cool at room temperature for aminimumof4hoursbefore serving.Thischocolatetartcanbetrickytocutbecausethechocolatemoussefillingtendstosticktotheknife.Warmupthebladeofaserratedknife,usingablowtorchorajugfilledwithboilingwater,andyouwillgetaperfectlycleancut.

GOODTOKNOW

The percentage of cocoa, in this recipe 55%, represents the quantity of cocoa paste(between80%and90%)andcocoabutterinthechocolate.Theremaining45%ismostlycomposedofsugar.Thevanillaaromaandlecithinrepresentlessthan0.5%.Theuseofa55% dark chocolatewill give the lightness to thismousse. A darker chocolatewill setharderatroomtemperature.

Apricotandalmondtart

TARTEAMANDINEAUXABRICOTS

It’saritualforme,thateachsummer,whentheapricotsareeverywhereinthemarketsanditstartstogetwarm,Imakethistart.Thereissomethingdeliciousaboutit;almondsand

apricotsaremadeforeachother.Serves10(28cmtart)/Preparationtime:30+30minutesRestingtimeinthefridge:1hour+30minutes/Bakingtime:35–40+5–10minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3forthepastrybase,35–45minutesat

160°C/325°F/GasMark3withthefillingYouwillneeda28cmtarttin

INGREDIENTS


800gripeapricots,halved

630galmondcream(1½×recipepage30)

Fortheapricotjam(optional)

250gripeapricots

80gcastersugar


2. For the apricot jam if using, dice the apricots and put them in a panwith the castersugar.Cookslowlyoveralowheatfor10minutes,stirringregularly.


4.Blindbakethepastrybase(seepage50).

5.Makethealmondcreamfollowingthemethodonpage30.

5.When the pastry base has cooled, spread over the jam, if using, and coverwith thealmondcream.

6.Arrangetheapricothalvesonthe topof the tartandbakeuntilevenlygoldenbrown.Coolatroomtemperatureinthetin.

Fig,honeyandalmondtart

TARTEAMANDINEAUMIELETAUXFIGUES

Tome,thisrecipemarksthebeginningofautumn.Thereissomethingcomfortingaboutcookedfigsandhoney.Irecommendyoutoserveitwarm,withyoghurticecreamanda

dashofhoneyontop.Serves10(28cmtart)/Preparationtime:30+30minutesRestingtimeinthefridge:1hour+30minutes/Bakingtime:35–40+5–10minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3forthepastrybase,35–45minutesat

160°C/325°F/GasMark3withthefillingYouwillneeda28cmtarttin

INGREDIENTS


600gripefigs,cutintoquarters

Forthefigcompote(optional)

250gripefigs

50gcastersugar

2tablespoonswater

Forthehoneyandalmondcream

165ggroundalmonds

40gplainflour


90gcastersugar

75grunnyhoney

3mediumeggs

Fortheglaze

20gbutter

40grunnyhoney


2.Tomakethefigcompote,ifusing,cutthefigsintosmallpiecesandputtheminapanwiththecastersugarandthewater.Cookslowlyoveralowheatfor10minutes,stirringregularly.



5.Makethehoneyandalmondcreamfollowingthemethodonpage30,addingthehoneybeforetheeggs.

6.Whenthepastrybaseiscold,spreadoverthefigcompote,ifusing,andcoveritevenlywiththealmondcream.

7.Arrangethequarteredfigsontopofthetartandbakeituntil thealmondcreamissetandgolden.Coolitatroomtemperatureinthetin.

8. In a small saucepan, warm up the butter and honey. Glaze the cooled tart with themixtureusingapastrybrush.

Howtopoachpears

1. Ina largesaucepan,makeasyrupbybringing to theboil thewater,caster sugarandvanillapod(openedandscraped).

2.Peel,cutinhalfandcorethepears.Removethestalksandthefibrearoundthecore.Ifthepearsarenottobeusedstraightaway,sprinklethemwiththejuiceofhalfalemon.

3.Cutasheetofbakingpaper2cmwiderthantherimofthesaucepan.

4.Whenthesyrupisboiling,turntheheatdownandputthehalvedpearsinsidethepanoneatatime.

5.Coverthepearswiththebakingpaperandputaplateorsomethingsimilarontopofit(Iused the loosebottomofacake tin).Thiswillstop thepearsfromfloatingandallowthemtocookevenlywithoutbrowning.Thefruitsmustbeimmersedinthesyrupduringcooking.

6.Turn theheatup.Thesyrupmustbesimmeringbutnotboilingand thecooking timedepends on the ripeness of the fruits.After 20minutes, prick the pearswith awoodencocktail stick or a small knife. It must penetrate the fruit easily. Continue to simmer,checkingevery5minutes,untilcooked.

7.Whenthepearsarecooked,removethepanfromtheheatandcoolatroomtemperature.Thefruitsmuststillbeimmersedinthesyrupwhilecoolingdown.

Pear,chocolateandalmondtart

TARTEAMANDINEAUCHOCOLATETAUXPOIRES

ThisismyFrenchversionofapearBakewelltart.Ialwayslovedthecombinationofpearandchocolate,andwiththealmondsitbecomesjustmagical.

Serves8(24cmtart)/Preparationtime:30+30minutesRestingtimeinthefridge:1hour+30minutes/Bakingtime:35–40+5–10minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3forthepastrybase,35–45minutesat

160°C/325°F/GasMark3withthefillingYouwillneeda12x35cmrectangulartarttinora24cmroundtarttin

INGREDIENTS

Forthepoachedpears

5Williamspears

1litrewater

300gcastersugar

1vanillapod(openedandscraped)

Forthecocoasweetpastry

20gcocoapowder

170gplainflour

1smallpinchofsalt


1mediumegg

55gcastersugar

Forthechocolateandalmondcream

135ggroundalmonds

35gplainflour

85gsoftbutter,diced

165gsugar

3mediumeggs


80gbutter

1.Prepareandpoachthepears(seepage70).Thisstepcanbedonethedaybefore.

2.Siftthecocoapowderwiththeflourandmakethesweetpastryfollowingthemethodonpage8.Restinthefridgefor1hour.

3.Linethetarttinwiththepastry(seepage42)andreturnittothefridgefor30minutes.


5.Forthechocolateandalmondcream,makeanalmondcreamfollowingthemethodonpage 30. Melt the chocolate and 80g of butter in the microwave at a medium power,stirringevery30secondsuntilit’smelted,thenincorporateitintothealmondcreamusingaspatula.

6.Whenthepastrybasehascooled,spreadevenlywiththechocolatealmondcream.

7.Garnish the tartwith thepoachedpearhalves andbake it until thechocolate almondcreamissetandcooked.Coolatroomtemperatureinthetin.

Basquecustardandblackcherrypie

GÂTEAUBASQUE

IdiscoveredthispiewhenIwasateenagerduringafamilysummerholidayintheFrenchBasquecountry.BackhomewhenImadeitwithmymotherforthefirsttime,itwasareal

success!Serves10(24cmpie)/Preparationtime:1hourRestingtimeinthefridge:2+1hours/Bakingtime:

40–50minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4Youwillneeda24cmroundcaketin

INGREDIENTS

450gcrèmepâtissière(seepage28)

Forthepastry

150gcastersugar

1mediumegg

1eggyolk

zestof½lemon,thinlygrated

½teaspoonsalt

150gplainflour

200gsoftbutter

Fortheblackcherryjam(oruseasmalljarofblackcherryjam)

250gblackcherries

110gcastersugar

Fortheglaze

1eggyolk

1teaspoonwater

1.Makethecrèmepâtissièrefollowingthemethodandrecipeonpage28.

2.Tomakethepastry,useanelectricmixertowhiskthecastersugar,egg,eggyolk,thinlygratedlemonzestandsaltuntilitwhitens.Switchthewhisktothepaddleattachmentandmixintheflourfollowedbythesoftbutter.Dividethepastryinto2unequalpieces(250gforthetop,330gforthebase),coverinclingfilmandrestinthefridgefor1hour.

3.Tomaketheblackcherryjam;stoneandcutthecherriesintoquarters.Puttheminapanwith thecaster sugar, andcook the jamslowlyovera lowheat forabout10minutes to

reducethejuice.Coolatroomtemperature.

4.Removethelargerpieceofpastryfromthefridgeandusetolinethetarttin(seepage42)

5. Spread the cherry jam evenly over the pastry, then cover itwith thewhisked crèmepâtissière.

6.Brush the side of the pastry basewithwater.Roll out the second pastry section andcoverthepie.Removetheexcessandsealthelidtothebasebypinchingthepastryedgestogether.

7.With a pastry brush,mix the egg yolkwith thewater and glaze the pie.Mark someridgeswithaforkandmakeaholeinitsmiddlewithaknifetip.

8.Bakethepiefor30minutes.Ifthetopgetstoodark,coveritwithapieceoffoilbeforefinishingoffthebaking.Cooldowninthedish.

CHEF’STOPTIP

Araspberrycompoteorjamalsomakesadeliciousfillinginsteadoftheblackcherryjam.

Walnuttart

TARTEAUXNOIX

Thisisquiteanunusualtartbutshoulddefinitivelybetasted.Irecommendyoutryitwithcoffeeicecreamorserveitwithcoffee.

Serves8(fora24cmtart)/Preparationtime:30+20minutesRestingtimeinthefridge:1hour+30minutes/Bakingtime:35–40+5–10minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3forthepastrybase,30–40

minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3withthefillingYouwillneeda24cmtarttin

INGREDIENTS


Forthewalnutcream

150gbutter

250gcastersugar

250gbrokenwalnuts

3mediumeggs




4.Makethewalnutcream.Usinganelectricmixerfittedwithapaddle,creamthebutterandsugar,thenalternatelyaddbatchesofthebrokenwalnutsandtheeggs.

5.Whenthepastrybasehascooled,spreadoutthewalnutcreamevenlythenbakethetartuntilthecreamissetandgoldenbrown.Coolatroomtemperatureinthetin.

CHAPTER3

Sabléepastry

LAPÂTESABLÉE

Sourcherryandpistachiotartlets

TARTELETTESÀLAPISTACHEETAUXCERISESGRIOTTES

Theacidityofthesourcherrycontrastsmarvellouslywiththesweetnessofthepistachiocream.It’saperfectbalanceofflavour,combinedinacolourfulandprettytartlet.

Makes10/Preparationtime:30+20minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:1hourRestingtimeinthefreezer:15minutes/Bakingtime:10–12minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3forthetartletbases,15–20

minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3withthefillingYouwillneed10×10cmtartletmoulds

INGREDIENTS

500gsabléepastry(seepage10)

Forthepistachiocream

90ggroundpistachios(orwholeandgroundinafoodprocessor)

25gplainflour


110gcastersugar

2mediumeggs

Forthecherryjam(oruseajarofcherryjam)

100gredorblackcherries,stoned

50gcastersugar(or75gforredcherryjam)

Forthecherrytopping

200gstonedredmorellocherries(fresh,frozenorfromajar)

1.Make thesabléepastryfollowing themethodonpage12,andrest in thefridgefor1hour.

2.Linethetartlettinswiththepastry(seepage42),prickseveraltimeswithaforkandputtheminthefreezerfor15minutes.

3.Makethepistachiocreamfollowingthemethodonpage202(samemethodasalmondcream)andkeepitatroomtemperature.

4.Forthecherryjam,putthecherriesinapanwiththecastersugar.Cookslowlyoveralowheatfor10minutes,stirringregularly.

5. Put the tartlet bases on a baking tray. Bake blind straight from the freezer withoutbakingbeans.After8minutesofbaking,turnthetrayintheovenandbakeforanother2–4minutes.Thetartletsmustbeevenlygoldenbrownbutnottoodark.Leavetocool.

6.When the tartlet bases are cold, add 1 teaspoon of cherry jam to each, coverwith 1tablespoonofpistachiocreamandpush in8–10 stonedmorellocherries.Bakeuntil thepistachiocreamissetandgolden.Removefromthetinsandcoolonawirerack.

Howtomakeawhitechocolateandvanillamousse

1.Softenthegelatineleavesincoldwaterfor10minutes.

2.Breakthewhitechocolateintosmallpiecesandputitinalargebowl.

3.Drainoffthewaterfromthegelatineleavesandaddthemtothewhitechocolate.

4.Bringtotheboilthefreshdoublecreamwiththevanillapod(openedandscraped),andpouritoverthewhitechocolatethroughafinesieve.

5. Stir with a spatula until the chocolate is melted, then cool for 15 minutes at roomtemperature.

6.Foldinthesoftlywhippedcream.

7.Setinthefridgeforaminimumof4hoursbeforeuse.

Raspberryandwhitechocolatetart

TARTEAUXFRAMBOISESETAUCHOCOLATBLANCVANILLÉ

IfIhadtopickafavouritetart,thiswouldprobablybeit.Personally,it’stheperfectcombinationofflavoursandtextures:acrispynuttypastry,asweetchocolatecreamthat

contrastswiththeacidityofthefreshraspberries.Justdivine!Serves8(24cmtart)/Preparationtime:30+20minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:4+1hours+15minutes/Restingtimeinthefreezer:15minutes/Bakingtime:15–20minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark

3/Youwillneeda24cmtarttin

INGREDIENTS

Forthewhitechocolateandvanillamousse

2smallgelatineleaves(3g)

120gwhitechocolate

200mlgfreshdoublecream


280mlfreshdoublecream,softlywhipped

Forthehazelnutsabléepastry

80ggroundhazelnuts

180gplainflour


120gicingsugar

smallpinchofsalt

1mediumegg

Forthefilling

100gwhitechocolate

20gbutter

600gfreshraspberries

(about6punnets)

150graspberryjam

1tablespoonwater

1.Make thewhite chocolate and vanillamousse (see page 82). Set in the fridge for aminimumof4hours.Thisstepcanbedonethedaybefore.

2. Mix the ground hazelnuts with the flour and make the sablée pastry following themethodonpage10.Restinthefridgefor1hour.

3.Linethetarttin(seepage42),prickwithaforkandputitinthefreezerfor15minutes.

4.Blindbakethepastrybasestraightfromthefreezer(nobakingbeansneeded)untilitisevenlygoldenbrown.

5.Meltthewhitechocolateandbuttertogetherinthemicrowaveatamediumpowerfor1minute. Stirwith a spatula and repeat this step every 30 seconds until the chocolate iscompletelymelted.Brushthepastrybasewithathinlayerofthechocolateandbuttermix.Setinthefridgefor15minutes.Thiswillhelpthepastrytostaycrispy.

6.Fillapipingbagandpipeathinlayerofthewhitechocolatemousseoverthechocolate-coatedpastry.Topthetartwiththeraspberries.

7. In a pan,warmup the raspberry jamwith thewater anduse toglaze the raspberriesusingapastrybrush.

Strawberrytart

TARTEAUXFRAISES

Thisistheonedessertthatwealllovetoseeinpastry-shopwindows.It’ssoprettyandfreshthatwedevouritwithoureyes.Tryitathome–it’ssuretobeasuccess.

Serves8(24cmtart)/Preparationtime:1hour/Restingtimeinthefridge:2+1hoursRestingtimeinthefreezer:15minutes/Bakingtime:15–20minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3Youwillneeda24cm

tarttin

INGREDIENTS


Forthealmondsabléepastry

80ggroundalmonds

180gplainflour

smallpinckofsalt

120gicingsugar


1mediumegg

Forthefilling

100gwhitechocolate

20gbutter

600gsmallstrawberries(2–3punnets)

Fortheglaze

150gstrawberryjam

1tablespoonwater

1.Makethecrèmepâtissièrefollowingthemethodonpage28,andrestinthefridgefor2hours.

2. Add the ground almonds to the flour and make the sablée pastry according to themethodonpage10.Restinthefridgefor1hour.

3.Linethetarttinwiththepastry(seepage42),prickwithaforkandputitinthefreezerfor15minutes.

4.Putthetartonabakingtrayandbakeblindstraightoutofthefreezerwithoutbaking

beans.After 15minutes of baking, turn the tray in the oven and bake for another 2–5minutes.Thetartshouldbegoldenbrownalloverbutnottoodark.

5.Meltthewhitechocolateandbutterinthemicrowaveatamediumpowerfor1minute.Stirwithaspatulaandrepeatthisstepevery30secondsuntilthechocolateiscompletelymelted.Brushthepastrybasewithathinlayerofthechocolatemix.Setinthefridgefor15minutes.Thiswillhelpthepastrytostaycrispy.

6.Putthestrawberriesinacolanderandwashthemquicklyundercoldwater.Drainandputthemonakitchenclothtodry.Removethehullsandcutinhalf.

7. Fill a piping bag with the crème pâtissière without working it, and pipe it onto thepastry base. Flatten it out with the back of a tablespoon and garnish the tart with thestrawberryhalves.

8.Inapan,slowlywarmupthestrawberryjamandthewater.Usetoglazethetartusingapastrybrush.

GOODTOKNOW

Ifyoudon’thaveapipingbagyoucanuseafreezerbagwith thecornersnippedoff topipethecrèmepâtissière.Thistartisquitefragileandshouldn’tbeputtogethertoofarinadvance. I would recommendmaking it nomore than 4 hours before serving (and eatwithin24hours).Keepitinthefridgeandtakeitout30minutesbeforeeating.

Warmchocolatetartlets

TARTELETTESCOULANTESTOUTCHOCOLAT

Thisistheperfectdesserttofinishanelegantmealathomewithfriends.Thetartletscanbemadeinadvanceandthencookedandservedstraightawayatdesserttime.Theirhot

andrunnychocolatecentreswillamazeyourguests.Makes8/Preparationtime:30+20minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:1hourRestingtimeinthefreezer:15minutes/Bakingtime:10–12minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3forthetartletbases,7–10

minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4withthefillingYouwillneed8×10cmtartlettins

INGREDIENTS

8darkchocolatesquares(55%)

Forthechocolatesabléepastry

20gcocoapowder

240gplainflour


120gicingsugar

smallpinchofsalt

1mediumegg

Forthechocolatemoussefilling

105gbutter

170gdarkchocolate(55%)

2mediumeggs

2eggyolks

30gcastersugar

1.Mixthecocoapowderwiththeflourandmakethesabléepastryfollowingthemethodonpage10.Restinthefridgefor1hour.

2.Linethetartlettinswiththepastry(seepage42),prickwithaforkandputtheminthefreezerfor15minutes.

3.Putthetartletsonabakingtrayandbakethemblindstraightfromthefreezerwithoutbakingbeans.After8minutesofbaking,turnthetrayintheovenandbakeforanother2–4minutes.Thetartletsshouldbeevenlygoldenbrownbutnottoodark.

4.Coolthetartletsonatray,intheirtins,andplaceachocolatesquareineachone.

5.Makethechocolatemoussefillingfollowingthemethodonpage60,andfillthetartletbasestothetopusingatablespoonorapipingbag.Setinthefridge.

6.Bakethe tartlets.Checkafter7minutes, turn the tray in theoventhenkeepcheckingthemminutebyminute.Thechocolatetartletshavetobebaked,removedfromtheirtinsandservedstraightaway.Takethemoutoftheovenwhentheircentresstilllookwet;thecentresshouldberunnywhenyoubreakthemwithaspoon.

Lemonmeringuepies

TARTELETTESMERINGUÉESAUCITRON

ThisistheFrenchversionofthecaramelizedlemontartonpage60:acrunchypastryandasweetmeringueontopofasharplemoncream.Thiscombinationoftasteandtexture

bringsalittle‘jenesaisquoi’tothepiesthatIfindreallyenjoyable.Makes8/Preparationtime:30+20minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:1hourRestingtimeinthefreezer:15minutes/Bakingtime:10–12minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3Youwillneed8×10cm

tartlettins

INGREDIENTS

500gsabléepastry(seepage10)

Forthelemoncream

150mllemonjuice

4eggyolks

2mediumeggs

105gcastersugar

105gsoftbutter

FortheFrenchmeringue

3eggwhites(120g)

200gcastersugar

1.Make thesabléepastryfollowing themethodonpage10,andrest in thefridgefor1hour.

2.Tomake the lemoncream,put the lemonjuice,eggyolks,eggsandcastersugar inasaucepan.Bringittotheboil,stirringcontinuouslywithawhisk.Passthemixturethroughavery fine sieveand leave it to cool to30°Cat room temperature. Incorporate the softbutterusingahandmixer,thensetinthefridge.

3.Linethetartlettinswiththepastry,prickwithaforkandputtheminthefreezerfor15minutes.

4.Placethetartletsonabakingtrayandbakethemblindstraightfromthefreezerwithoutbakingbeans.After8minutesofbaking,turnthetrayintheovenandbakeforanother2–4minutes.Thetartletsshouldbeevenlygoldenbrownbutnottoodark.

5.Removethecoldtartletsfromtheirtinsandfillthemwiththelemoncream.

6.Make theFrenchmeringue following themethodonpage36.Fill apipingbag fittedwithaflutednozzlewiththemixtureanddecoratethetartlets.

7.Blowtorchthemeringuebyplacingtheflameclosetoitandmovingtheflamequicklyacross the meringue, or bake the pies cold from the fridge for 2 minutes at240°C/475°F/GasMark9.

Milkchocolateandhazelnuttartlets

TARTELETTESÀLANOISETTEETAUCHOCOLATAULAIT

Richinmilkchocolate,thesetartletsareaperfectmatchforsummerberries.Youcouldalsoservethemwithascoopofagood-qualitypassionfruitsorbetifyouwanttosurprise

yourguestswithanoriginalcombinationworthyofaMichelin-starredrestaurant.Makes10/Preparationtime:30+30minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:1+1hourRestingtimeinthefreezer:15minutes/Bakingtime:10–12minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3Youwillneed10×10cm

tartlettins

INGREDIENTS

Forthehazelnutsabléepastry

80ggroundhazelnuts

180gplainflour


120gicingsugar

½teaspoonsalt

1mediumegg

Forthemilkchocolatefilling

200gcrèmeanglaise(seepage26)

200gmilkchocolate


Forthemarinatedberries

100gstrawberries,hulledandquartered

100graspberries

50gblueberries

10gcastersugar

1. Mix the ground hazelnuts with the flour and make the sablée pastry following themethodonpage10.Restinthefridgefor1hour.

2.Linethetartlettinswiththepastry(seepage42),prickwithaforkandputinthefreezerfor15minutes.

3.Placethetartletsonabakingtrayandblindbakethemstraightfromthefreezerwithout

bakingbeans.After8minutesofbaking,turnthetrayintheovenandbakeforanother2–4minutes.Thetartletsshouldbeevenlygoldenbrownbutnottoodark.

4.Makethecrèmeanglaisefollowingthemethodonpage26,andweighout200g.

5.Melt themilkchocolate in themicrowaveatmediumpowerfor1minute.Stirwithaspatulaandrepeatthisstepevery30secondsuntilthechocolateismelted.

6.For themilkchocolate filling,pour thehotcrèmeanglaiseon topof themeltedmilkchocolatein4batches,stirringeachtimewithaspatula.Whiskthecreamuntilitissoftlywhippedandfolditintothechocolatemix.Fillthetartletstothetopandsetinthefridgefor1hour.

7.Tomarinate theberries,half anhourbefore serving,put the strawberries, raspberriesandblueberries inabowlandsprinklewithcastersugar.Keepat roomtemperatureandstiroccasionally.Servewiththetartletsand/orusetodecorate.

CHAPTER4

Puffpastry

LAPÂTEFEUILLETÉE

AppletartTatin

TARTETATINAUXPOMMES

Createdinthenineteenth-centuryintherestaurantoftheTatinsistersatLamotte-BeuvroninthecentreofFrance,legendhasitthatthetartwasbornfromamistake.Aburntappletartwassavedbykeepingthecaramelizedapplesandbakingthemwithapastrytop.The

cookedpiewasthenturnedoutandservedupsidedown.Serves10(24cmtart)/Preparationtime:40minutes+1hour/Restingtimeinthefridge:2½hours

Bakingtime:30–40minutesat200°C/400°F/GasMark6Youwillneeda24cmheavy-basedovenprooftarttin

INGREDIENTS

400gpuffpastry(seepage12)

Fortheappletopping

15smallCoxorBraeburnapples

200gcastersugar

75gbutter

1.Makethepuffpastryfollowingthemethodonpage12.Thisstepcanbedonethedaybefore.

2.Peel,cutinhalfandcoretheapples.

3. In a heavy-based ovenproof dish that you can also use on the hob, or an ovenprooffrying pan, make a soft caramel by melting together the butter and caster sugar on amediumheatuntiltheliquidisgoldenbrownbutnottoodark.

4.Off theheat, tightlypack theapplehalves into thedishandcookthemslowlyon thestovefor20–30minuteswithalidon.Thesoftcaramelwillstarttocookandcolourtheapplesfromthebottomtothetop.Removefromtheheatandleavetocoolfor30minutesinthedish.

5.Rolloutthepuffpastry(2.5–3mmthickness)andcutaroundbase1.5cmwiderthanthetartdish.Prickitwithaforkonbothsides.

6.Covertheappleswiththepastry.Foldintheexcesspastry,pushingdownandtuckingintheedgesallaroundtheinsidebetweenthedishandthefruit.Withaknifetip,makeafewholesinthepastrytoallowthesteamtoescape.

7.BakethetartTatinuntilthepuffpastryisgoldenbrown,thencoolitinthedish.Beforeserving,flashthetartintheovenfor5minutesat200°C/400°F/GasMark6andthenturnitovercarefullyontoatray.

GOODTOKNOW

ApeartartTatincanalsobemadefollowingthesamemethodandusingWilliamspears,butmakesurethey’renottooripe.Ifyou’reshortontime,youcanuseashortcrustpastry(seepage6)insteadofthepuffpastry,whichisjustwhatmymotherwoulddo.

Summerfruitspufftartlets

TARTELETTESFEUILLETÉESAUXFRUITSD’ÉTÉ

Ijustlovethesetartlets;theyremindmeofmychildhoodwhenmysisterIsabelleandIusedtostopatthepâtisserieonourwayhomefromschool.Theylookedsopretty,and

evennowit’sstillveryhardtodecidewhichonetopick!Makes8/Preparationtime:40+50minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:2½hoursBakingtime:15–20

minutesat200°C/400°F/GasMark6Youwillneedanon-stickbakingtray

INGREDIENTS


225gcrèmepâtissière(½recipeonpage28)

1beatenegg

Forthefruitgarnish

100gstrawberries

100graspberries

100gblueberries

(Or300ganyfruitsofyourchoice)

Fortheglaze

150graspberryjam

1tablespoonwater


2.Makeacrèmepâtissière(seepage28)andrestinthefridgefor2hours.

3.Rolloutthepuffpastrytoa40×30cmrectangle,3mmthick.Removetheexcessflouron the top and underneath it. Trim the edges with a knife in order to get a perfectrectangularshape.

4.Withalargeknife,cutinfromthelongside4bands2cmwide.Dividetherestinto2bands,16cmwide.

5.Prickwithaforkthe2widestbandsofpastryonbothsides.Brushbothsidesofeachbandwitheggandplacethe4smallestbandsofpastryontopofthem.Pressgentlywiththefingertips tosealandmarkthesidewithaknife tip.Brushthesideswiththebeatenegg.Laythepastrybasesonanon-stickbakingtrayandrestfor30minutesinthefridge

beforebakinguntilgoldenbrown.Coolonwirerack.

6.Fillapipingbagwiththecrèmepâtissièrewithoutworkingitandpipeathinlayerontoeachbandofcookedpuffpastry.Atablespooncanalsobeused(butinthiscase,thecrèmepâtissièremustbewhiskedbeforeuseinordertosoftenit).

7.Divideeachbandinto4individualtartletsusingaserratedknife.Garnishwiththefruitsofyourchoice.

8. Inapanovera lowheat,warmup the raspberry jamand thewater.Use toglaze thetartletswithapastrybrush.

Fineplumtart

TARTEFINEAUXPRUNES

InFrance,aclassicfinetartwouldbemadewithapples.ButthechefinmedecidedotherwisewhenIsawsomeamazingplumsinthemarketoneday.Imadeafineplumtart

forthefirsttimeanditwassogoodthattherecipehadtobeinthisbook.Serves8/Preparationtime:40+30minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:2½hours/Restingtimeinthe

freezer:30minutes/Bakingtime:10minutesat210°C/425°F/GasMark7+25–30minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4/Youwillneedanon-stickbakingtray

INGREDIENTS


1beatenegg

Fortheplumcompote

4riperedplums,diced


Forthegarnish

10redplums(700-800g)

40gcastersugar


2.Fortheplumcompote,putthedicedplumsandcastersugarinapanandcookoveralowheatfor15minutes,stirringregularly.

3.Rolloutthepuffpastrytoa30×30cmsquare,3mmthick.Removetheexcessflouronthe top and underneath it. Trim the edgeswith a knife in order to get a perfect squareshape.

4.Withalargeknife,cuta25cmsquarefromthepuffpastry.Usethetrimmingstocut4bands(25×2cm)for thecrust.Cuteachendof thebandata45-degreeangle tofit thepastrybase.

5. Prick the pastry basewith a fork, turn it over onto a baking tray and prick it again.Brushthesidesofthepastrybasewitheggandlayontopthe4bandsforthecrust.Pressfirmlywithyourfingertipstoseal.Brushwithegganddecoratethesideswiththetipofaknife.

6.Spreadtheplumcompoteinsidethepastrybase.

7.Cut in half and stone the plums.Slice themanduse to garnish the tart. Sprinkle thecaster sugar on the fruit andbrush the crustwith egg.Put the tart in the freezer for 30minutes before baking until the pastry base is evenly golden brown underneath. Use aspatulatoliftupthetartandcheckitscolour.Coolonawirerack.

GOODTOKNOW

Cookingatahightemperaturehelpsthepuffpastrytodevelopandriseintheoven.Butinorderforthepastrytocookevenly,especiallythepartunderneaththefruitorcream,theoventemperaturemustbeturneddowntofinishoffthebaking.Otherwisethecrustaroundthe tart will become too dark, too quickly, while the pastry underneath will not haveenoughtimetocook.

TwelfthNightcake:almondpithivier

GALETTEDESROIS

ThiscakeiseateninFranceonTwelfthNight.Thetraditionisthatachildwillhideunderthetableandassignasliceofcaketoeachguest.Theonewhofindsthehiddencharminthecakewillbecomethekingorqueenandwillbecrownedwithapapercrown.This

personwillthengettochoosetheirkingoraqueenandgivethatpersonthesecondpapercrown.

Serves10(25cmcake)/Preparationtime:40+45minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:2½hoursRestingtimeinfreezer:30minutes/Bakingtime:10minutesat220°C/425°F/GasMark7+25–35minutes

at180°C/350°F/GasMark4/Youwillneedanon-stickbakingtray

INGREDIENTS


Acharmtohideinthecake

1beatenegg,toglaze

Forthefrangipanecream

110gcrèmepâtissière(¼recipeseepage28)

420galmondcream(seepage30)

Forthesyrup

50gcastersugar

25mlwater

1.Makethepuffpastryfollowingthemethodonpage12.

2.Makeacrèmepâtissièrefollowingthemethodonpage28andrest in thefridgefor2hours.

3.Makethealmondcream(seepage30)andkeepitatroomtemperature.

4.Inalargebowl,whisk110gofcrèmepâtissièreandfoldinthealmondcreamin3or4additions.Setasideatroomtemperature.

5. Divide the puff pastry into 2 unequal pieces (about 350g and 450g). Roll out thesmallestpiece to3mmthickandcutaroundpastrybaseabout28cmindiameter.Brushtheflouroffandplaceitonanon-stickbakingtrayoratraylinedwithbakingpaper.

6.Putthefrangipanecreaminitsmiddle,leavinga4cmgapfromtheedgeofthepastry,andputthecharminthecreamawayfromthecentre.Brushthesidesofthepastrybasewithegg.

7.Rolloutthelargestpieceofpuffpastryto3mmthick,brushtheflouroffandputitoverthe frangipane creamandpastrybase.Press firmlywith the fingertips to seal the sides.Withaknife,removetheexcesspastry,leavinga3–4cmgapbetweenthecreamandtheedgeofthepuffpastry,thenbrushthecakewithbeatenegg.Withaknifetip,makeaholeinthecentretoallowthesteamtoescapeanddrawarosette.Glazeasecondtimeandrestinthefreezerfor30minutesbeforebakinguntilthebottomofthecakeisevenlygoldenbrown.

8.Tomakethesyrup,putthecastersugarandwaterinapanandbringtotheboil.About5minutesbeforetheendofbaking,removethecakefromtheovenandbrushitwithsyrup.Finishbaking,thencoolonawirerackandservewarm.

Cherryandhazelnutpithiviers

PITHIVIERSÀLANOISETTEETAUXCERISES

Thisismygrown-upversionoftheclassicTwelfthNightcake.Irecommendyouserveitwarmwiththeredwineandcherrycompote.

Makes8/Preparationtime:40+40minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:2½hours+15minutesRestingtimeinfreezer:30minutes/Bakingtime:20–25minutesat200°C/400°F/GasMark6Youwillneedanon-

stickbakingtrayand2pastrycutters(90and100mm)orsimilar(glasses,bowlsormugsturnedupsidedownandaknifetocut)

INGREDIENTS


1beatenegg,toglaze

Forthefilling

210ghazelnutcream(½almondrecipe,onpage30)

24–32stonedcherriescutintohalves

Forthesyrup

50gcastersugar

25mlwater

1.Makethepuffpastryfollowingthemethodonpage12.

2. Make the hazelnut cream (see page 30), using ground hazelnuts instead of groundalmonds.Setasideatroomtemperature.

3.Rolloutthepuffpastryto3mmthickandremovetheexcessflouronbothsides.With2pastrycutters(90and100mm),cut8pithiviersbasesand8tops.Resttheminthefridgefor15minutes.

4.Removethe8pithivierbases(thesmallerones)fromthefridgeandbrushwithbeatenegg.Putalargeteaspoonofhazelnutcreamintheircentresand6–8cherryhalves.Leave2cmgapstosealthetops.

5. Remove the 8 tops from the fridge and place one over each pithivier. Press firmlyaroundthesideswithyourfingertipstoseal.

6.Removetheexcesspastryusingaknifeorapastrycutter,leavinga2cmgapbetweenthecreamandtheedgeofthepastry.Brushthetopofthepithivierswithbeatenegg.Withaknifetip,makeaholeintheircentrestoallowthesteamtoescapeanddrawonapattern.Glazeoncemoreandleavefor30minutesinthefreezerbeforebaking.

7.Forthesyrup,putthecastersugarandthewaterinapanandbringtotheboil.About5minutes before the end of baking, remove the pithiviers from the oven and brush themwithsyrup.Finishbakingandcoolonawirerack.Servewarm.

Appleandblackberryturnovers

CHAUSSONSAUXPOMMESETÀLAMÛRE

ThisrecipeistheperfectillustrationofhowlivinginEnglandinfluencedmybaking.IhavechangedtheclassicFrenchappleturnoverintoanappleandblackberryone.Andit’s

oh-sogood!Makes8/Preparationtime:40+30minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:2½hoursRestingtimein

freezer:1hour/Bakingtime:20-25minutesat200°C/400°F/GasMark6Youwillneedanon-stickbakingtray

INGREDIENTS


1beatenegg,toglaze

Fortheappleandblackberrycompote

2smallBramleyapples,peeled,coredanddiced

150gblackberries20gbutter


1tablespoonwater


2.Tomakethecompote,putthedicedapples,blackberries,butter,castersugarandwaterin apanandcook themslowlyover a lowheat for15minutes.Stir regularly.Cool thecompoteatroomtemperature.

3.Rolloutthepuffpastryto4mmthickandremovetheexcessflouronbothsides.Cut8circles of 15cm using a bowl turned upside down and a knife, and roll them into ovalshapeswitharollingpin.

4.Put2smalltablespoonsofcompotejustunderneaththecentreofeachcircleandspreadout in a half-circle leaving 3cm around the edge free from compote to seal the pastry.Brushthesideswitheggandfoldthepuffpastryinhalf.Withyourfingertips,pressfirmlyonthesidestosealthepastry.

5.Withasmallknife,trimofftheexcesspastryandshapetheturnoversintohalf-circlesleavingalargebandofpuffpastryaroundthecompote.Placethemonanon-stickbakingtray and brush with beaten egg.Make some drawings with a knife tip without cuttingthroughthepastryandglazethemasecondtime.Makeaholeinitscentreandrestinthefreezerfor1hourbeforebaking.Coolonawirerack.

GOODTOKNOW

Therestingtimeinthefreezerisoptional,butIalwaysdoit.Usingfrozencompotemakesitlesslikelytheturnoverswillleakduringbaking.

Vanillamillefeuille

MILLE-FEUILLEÀLAVANILLE

Atrueclassicbeauty!Thissliceissoelegantthatyouneverquiteknowhowtoeatitwithoutdestroyingallthelayers.Asharpserratedknifecanbeasolutionbutit’smorefun

justtodigin.Serves10(1largemillefeuille)/Preparationtime:40+45minutesRestingtimeinthefridge:2hours+

45minutes/Bakingtime:25–30minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4/Youwillneed2bakingtrays

INGREDIENTS


900gcrèmepâtissière(2×recipepage28)

200gdicedalmonds

40gdarkchocolate

Fortheglaze

250gwhitefondant

(Or250gwhiteicing+30–40mlboilingwater)


2.Make the crème pâtissière (see page 28) and rest in the fridge for aminimum of 2hours.Thisstepcanalsobedonethedaybefore.

3.Dividethepuffpastryinto3equalpieces.Rolleachouttoa4mmthicksquare.Removeanyexcessflourandprickthemonbothsideswithafork.Putthesquaresonbakingtraysandresttheminthefridgefor30minutesbeforebakingtopreventthemfromshrinking.

4.Placeeachsheetofpuffpastrybetween2sheetsofbakingpaper,thenbetween2bakingtrays, to stop them from risingexcessively.Bake for20minutes, then remove the traysfromtheovenandpressonthemusingyourbodyweighttoflattenthemout.Checkthecolourofthepuffpastry,turnthetraysandputthembackintheoventofinishbakingfor5–10minutes;itshouldbeevenlygoldenbrown.Coolonawirerack.

5.Toast thedicedalmondsin theovenfor10minutesat150°C/300°F/GasMark2.Stirafter5minutes.

6.Trim the puff-pastry sheets, one at a time, into 3 squares of 20cm.Fill a piping bagfittedwithamedium-sizenozzlewiththesetcrèmepâtissière.

7.Assemblethemillefeuille:putthefirstsquareofpuffpastryonatray,pipeoverevenly

thecrèmepâtissière tocover itandput thesecondsquareofpastryontop.Pipeanotherlayer of crème pâtissière and lay on the final square of pastry. Put in the fridge for 15minutes.

8.Meltthechocolateinthemicrowave(orinabain-marie,seepage24)atmediumpowerfor1minute,thencheckandstirwithaspatula.Repeatthisstepevery30secondsuntilthechocolateismelted.Makeapaperconefrombakingpaper,fillitwiththechocolateandkeepwarm.

9. In a pan or in the microwave, slowly warm up the white fondant to 36–37°C.Alternatively,put thewhite icing inabowlandwarmit (35–40°C) in themicrowaveatmediumpower.Putitinthebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithapaddle,workthewhiteicingandhotwateruntilthemixsoftensandbecomesrunny.

10.Tofinishoffthemillefeuille,spreadovertheglazewhileitisstillwarmandpipeonsomestraightlineswiththechocolate.Marbletheglazeusingthetipofaknifeinacriss-crosspattern.

11.Spreadsomecrèmepatisserieoverthesidesandcoatwiththetoasteddicedalmonds.

CHEF’SADVICE

Thepuffpastrywillabsorb themoistureof thecreamratherquickly, so themillefeuilleshouldbeeatenwithinaday.Cutthemillefeuillewithasharpserratedknife.

Whitechocolateandraspberrymillefeuilles

MILLEFEUILLESAUCHOCOLATBLANCETAUXFRAMBOISES

TobeenjoyedwithaglassofChampagneandEdithPiafsinging‘L’hymneàl’amour’inthebackground,thisistheperfectdessertforaromanticdinner.

Makes6/Preparationtime:40+45minutesRestingtimeinthefridge:4hours+30minutesBakingtime:15-20minutesat170°C/325°F/GasMark3/Youwillneed2bakingtrays

INGREDIENTS


Forthewhitechocolateandvanillamousse


120gwhitechocolate

200gfreshdoublecream


280gfreshdoublecream,softlywhipped

Forthedecoration

icingsugar,todust

2largepunnetsofraspberries(125geach)


2.Makethewhitechocolateandvanillamousse(seepage82).Thisstepcanalsobedonethedaybefore.

3.Rolloutthepuffpastrytoarectangle2mmthick(30×40cm).Restinthefridgefor30minutesbeforebakingtopreventitfromshrinking.

4.Placethepuffpastrybetween2sheetsofbakingpaper,thenbetween2bakingtrays,tostopitfromrisingexcessively.Bakefor12minutes,thenremovethetraysfromtheovenandpressdownonthemusingyourbodyweighttoflattenitout.Checkthecolourofthepastrybeforeputtingitbackintheovenfor6to8minutestofinishbaking;itshouldbeevenlygoldenbrown.Coolonawirerack.

5.Witha serratedknife,cut18 rectanglesofapproximately12×4cm. Ialwaysdoonemillefeuilleatatime(3rectangles).Dividethepastryinto2rectangles(15×40cm),andthen cut 3 strips (15 × 4cm) for the first millefeuille. Place them in front of youlengthways,nexttoeachother,andtrimthemdownto12cm,cuttingbothsidesofthe3

pieces. Put them aside on top of each other and repeat these steps for the remainingmillefeuilles.

6. Fill a piping bag fittedwith amedium-size nozzle (square or round)with thewhitechocolateandvanillamousse.

7. Assemble a millefeuille with 1 rectangle of puff pastry, a layer of white chocolatemousse,thenanotherrectangleofpuffpastryandalayerofraspberries.Dustthefinaltoplayer of puff pastry by covering half of itwith a sheet of paper placed diagonally anddustingtheuncoveredpastrywiththeicingsugar.Removethesheetofpapercarefullytoreveal the uncoated pastry and place it on the top of themillefeuille. Decorate with 3raspberryhalves.

Darkchocolatemillefeuille

MILLE-FEUILLETOUTCHOCOLAT

Thisdessertwillpleaseallchocolatelovers–fromthepastrytotheicing,it’sallchocolate.

Serves10(1largemillefeuille)/Preparationtime:40+35minutesRestingtimeinthefridge:2½hoursBakingtime:25-30minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4/Youwillneed2bakingtrays

INGREDIENTS

Forthedough

40gcocoapowder

375gplainflour

75gwhitebreadflour

10gsalt

300mlwater

1teaspoonwhitewinevinegar

500gbutter

Forthemillefeuillecream


700mlfullfatorsemi–skimmedmilk

5eggyolks

100gcastersugar

50gplainflour

Forthegarnish

50gicingsugar

50gcocoapowder

1.Sift thecocoapowderwithbothof thefloursandmake thepuffpastryfollowing themethodonpage12.Thisstepcanbedonethedaybefore.

2.Forthemillefeuillecream,putthechoppedchocolateinalargebowl.Makethecrèmepâtissière following themethod on page 28. Pass it through a very fine sieve over thechocolateandwhiskuntilmelted.Coverwithcling filmso that it is incontactwith themixtureandrestinthefridgeforaminimumof2hours.

3.Cut thepuffpastry into4equalparts(only3willbeused).Roll themout into4mm-thickrectangles.Removetheexcessflourandprickthemonbothsideswithafork.Restinthefridgefor30minutes.

4.Placeeachsheetofpuffpastrybetween2sheetsofbakingpaper,thenbetween2traysto stop it from rising excessively.Bake for 20minutes, then remove the trays from theovenandpresson themusingyourbodyweight to flattenout thepastry.Turn the traysandput themback in theoven to finishbaking forabout5–10minutes.Coolonawirerack.

5.Oneatthetime,trimthepastrysheetsdownwithaserratedknifeinto3rectangles(15×28cm).

6.Whiskthechocolatemillefeuillecreaminalargebowlandfillapipingbagfittedwithamedium-sizenozzle.

7.Assemblethemillefeuille:putafirstrectangleofpuffpastryonatray,pipeoveralayerof cream and cover it up with a second rectangle of pastry. Pipe a second layer ofmillefeuillecream.Todecorate thefinal layerofpuffpastrywith icingsugarandcocoapowder,placeitontheworksurface,putasheetofpaperacrossdiagonally,andsprinkletheuncoveredpastrywithicingsugarusingasieve.Removethesheetofpaperandslideoff the icing sugar.Put it backon the third layerofpastry to cover the icing sugar andsprinklesomecocoapowderontheotherside.Slowlyremovethepaper.Placethepastrycarefullyonthetopofthemillefeuilleandkeepinthefridge.

CHAPTER5

Chouxpastry

LAPÂTEÀCHOUX

Chantillychoux

CHOUXCHANTILLY

Veryeasytomake,thisistheidealdessertforalargereceptionordinnerparty.ServetheChantillychouxwithafreshberrysaladorenjoythemontheirownwithanicecupoftea.Makes20largechoux/Preparationtime:20+20minutesBakingtime:20minutesat200°C/400°F/Gas

Mark6+15minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3todryout/Youwillneedanon-stickbakingtray

INGREDIENTS

350gchouxpastry(½recipeonpage18)

450gChantillycream(1½recipeonpage34)

1beatenegg,toglaze

30gicingsugar

1.Makethechouxpastryfollowingthemethodonpage18,uptostep6.

2.On a non-stick tray, pipe the chouxpastry into domes4cm in diameter, in staggeredrows,6cmapart.Brushthemwithbeateneggandbakewithasmallramekinfilledwithboilingwater(80ml)atthebottomoftheovenwithoutopeningtheovendoor(otherwisechouxwillcollapse).Coolonawirerack.

3.MaketheChantillycreamfollowingthemethodonpage34,fillapipingbagfittedwithaflutednozzleandkeepitinthefridge.

4. Remove the top of the chouxwith a serrated knife and fill themwith the Chantillycream.

5.PutthelidsbackonandsprinkletheChantillychouxwithicingsugarusingaveryfinesieve.

Chocolateéclairs

ÉCLAIRSAUCHOCOLAT

Theseéclairslookmorecomplicatedtomakethantheyreallyare.Servethemasadessertorforafternoontea.It’saguaranteedsuccess.

Makes20largeeclairs/Preparationtime:20+45minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:2hoursBakingtime:15minutesat200°C/400°F/GasMark6+20minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3todryout/Youwill

needanon-stickbakingtray

INGREDIENTS


1beatenegg,toglaze

Forthechocolatecrèmepâtissière



Forthecocoaicing

15gcocoapowder

3tablespoonswater

250gwhitefondantformillefeuille(or250gwhiteicing+30–40mlboilingwater)

1.Chopthedarkchocolateintosmallpiecesandputitinalargebowl.

2.Make thecrèmepâtissière following themethodonpage28, thenpass thehotcrèmepâtissière thought a sieve over the chopped chocolate andwhisk untilmelted. Cover itwitha layerofclingfilm indirectcontactwith thecream,andput it in the fridge foraminimumof2hours.

3.Makethechouxpastryfollowingthemethodonpage18uptostep6.

4.Onanon-stickbakingtray,pipethechouxpastryinto10cm-longbatons,instaggeredrows5cmapart.Brushwithbeateneggandbakewitharamekinfilledwithboilingwater(80ml) at the bottomof the oven.Do not open the oven during the first 15minutes ofbakingotherwisethechouxwillcollapse.Coolonawirerack.

5.Whiskthechocolatecrèmepâtissièreandfillapipingbagfittedwithamediumroundnozzle.

6.Turntheéclairsupsidedownandcut theminhalfalongtheirsides,keepingonesidestillattached.Fillthemwiththechocolatecrèmepâtissière.

7.Forthecocoaicing,mixthecocoapowderwiththewatertomakeapaste.Warmupthewhite fondant (36–37°C) in themicrowave, atmediumpower for 1minute, andmix itwiththecocoapaste.Alternatively,putthewhiteicinginabowlandwarmfor30secondsin themicrowaveatmediumpower(35–40°C).Place it in thebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithapaddle,workitwithboilingwateruntilthemixsoftens,thenaddthecocoapaste.Themixmustberunny.Usewarm.

8.Glazethechocolateéclairswiththecocoaicingusingateaspoonontheflatsideoftheéclairs.Setinthefridge.

Chocolateprofiteroles

PROFITEROLESAUCHOCOLAT

Iliketovarythisrecipebyusingvanillawhippedcreamormintchocolate-chipicecreaminsteadofthecrèmepâtissière.Youcouldalsotrysprinklingsometoastedflakedalmonds

ontopofthechocolatesauce.Makes25/Preparationtime:20+40minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:2hoursBakingtime:15

minutesat200°C/400°F/GasMark6+15minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3todryout/Youwillneedanon-stickbakingtray

INGREDIENTS

450gcrèmepâtissière(page28)


1beatenegg,toglaze

Forthechocolateganache


35gbutter



Forthechocolatesauce

150gdarkchocolate


1.Makethecrèmepâtissièrefollowingthemethodonpage28andrestinthefridgefor2hours.

2.Makethechouxpastryfollowingthemethodonpage18uptostep6.

3. On a non-stick baking tray, pipe the choux pastry into domes 3cm in diameter, instaggeredrows5cmaparttoallowthemtospread.Brushthemwithbeateneggandbakewitharamekinfilledwithboilingwater(80ml)atthebottomoftheoven.Donotopentheovenduring thefirst15minutesofbakingotherwise thechouxwillcollapse.Coolonawirerack.

4.Whiskthecrèmepâtissièreandfillapipingbagfittedwithasmallroundnozzle.

5.With the tipofaknife,makeaholeat thebottomofeachchouxandfillwithcrèmepâtissière.

6.Tomake the ganache,melt the chocolate and butter in themicrowave (or in a bain-marie,seepage24), atmediumpower for1minute, thencheckand stirwitha spatula.Repeatthisstepevery30secondsuntilbotharemelted.Thenaddthecoldmilkandcreamin3or4batches.Thiswillmake the temperatureof theganachedrop.Addanextra20secondsinthemicrowavetowarmitupandbringitbackto40°C(itmustfeelwarmbutnothot)whichisagoodtemperaturetouseaganache.Dipthetopsoftheprofiterolesintotheganacheandsetinthefridge.

7.Forthechocolatesauce,chopthechocolateandputitinabowl.Bringthemilktotheboil,thenpourhalfofitonthetopofthechoppedchocolate.Stirwithaspatulauntilthechocolateismeltedandaddtherestofthemilk.Servewarmwiththeprofiteroles.

Rocsugarchoux

CHOUQUETTES

Lightandcrispy,theyarethechildren’sfavourite.Ifyoudogetthechancetotastethem,Irecommendyoueatthemwhentheyarestillwarmfromtheoven,alongwithanicecupof

coffee.Makesapproximately60/Preparationtime:25minutesBakingtime:14+2–4minutesat

180°C/350°F/GasMark4/Youwillneed2non-stickbakingtrays

INGREDIENTS

Forthechouxpastry


125mlwater

5gsalt

15gcastersugar

110gbutter

150gwhitebreadflour

4mediumeggs

Forthetopping

1beatenegg,toglaze

50gnibbedsugar

1.Putthemilk,water,salt,castersugarandbutterinasaucepan,andfollowthemethodformakingchouxpastryonpage18,uptostep6.

2.Fillapipingbagfittedwithamedium-sizenozzlewiththechouxmixture.On2non-stick trays,pipe thepastry intodomes2cm indiameter, in staggered rows, leaving4cmbetweenthemtoallowthemtospread.

3.Brushthemwithbeatenegg,sprinkleoversomenibbedsugarandbakefor14minuteswitha ramekin filledwithboilingwaterat thebottomof theoven,withoutopening theovendoor(otherwisethechouxwillcollapse).Thenturnthetrayintheovenforanother2–4minutes.Therocsugarchouxmustnotbetoodark.Coolonawirerack.

Icedcoffeecreamchoux

RELIGIEUSEAUCAFÉ

I’macoffeegirlandIloveitwhenthecoffeecrèmepâtissièreisverystrong.Ifindthatitbalancesharmoniouslywiththesweetnessofthecoffeeicing,andmakestheselittleiced

coffeecreamchouxquiteaddictive.Makes12/Preparationtime:20+50minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:2hours/Bakingtime:15

minutesat200°C/400°F/GasMark6+15–20minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3todryout/Youwillneedanon-stickbakingtray

INGREDIENTS


1beatenegg,toglaze

150gChantillycream(½recipeonpage34)

Forthecoffeecrèmepâtissière

450gcrèmepâtissière(recipeonpage28)

2–3teaspoonscoffeeextract,totaste

Forthecoffeeicing

250gwhitefondantformillefeuille(or250gwhiteicing+30–40mlboilingwater)

2teaspoonscoffeeextract,totaste

1.Makethecrèmepâtissièrefollowingthemethodonpage28,andrestinthefridgefor2hours.

2.Makethechouxpastryfollowingthemethodonpage18,uptostep6.

3.Onanon-stickbakingtray,pipethechouxpastryinstaggeredrowsintodomes4cmindiameter,6cmapartforthebases,and2cmdomes,3cmapartforthetopstoallowthemtospread.Brushthemwithbeateneggandbakefor15minutesat200°C/400°F/GasMark6witharamekinfilledwithboilingwater(80ml)atthebottomoftheovenwithoutopeningtheovendoorotherwisethechouxwillcollapse.Transfer thetopstoacoolingrackandputthebasesbackintheovenfor15minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3.Coolonawirerack.

4.Whiskthecrèmepâtissièreinabowlandflavouritwiththecoffeeextract.Fillapipingbagfittedwithasmallroundnozzle.

5.Withthetipofaknife,makeaholeatthebottomofeachchouxandfillwiththecoffeecrèmepâtissière.

6. For the coffee icing,warm up thewhite fondant (36–37°C) in themicrowave, for 1minuteatmediumpower.Alternatively,put thewhite icing inabowlandwarm it (35–40°C) in themicrowaveatmediumpower.Put it in thebowlofanelectricmixer fittedwith a paddle, work the white icing and hot water until the mix softens and becomesrunny.Flavourwiththecoffeeextract.

7.Glaze the chouxby dipping them into thewarm coffee icing.Leave to crystallize atroom temperature for 15 minutes. Warm up the coffee icing in the microwave for 30seconds and build up the choux, using a little bit of icing to stick the bases and topstogether.Setinthefridge.

8.MakeaChantillycreamfollowingthemethodonpage34andusetodecoratetheicedcoffeecreamchoux.

Howtomakeacaramel

1.Put thecastersugar in thepanwithenoughwater tomakea thickpaste.Somewhitewine vinegar can also be added to the mix to stop the sugar from crystallizing (½teaspoon).

2.Overahighheat,startcookingwithoutstirringuntilthesugarsyrupstartstocolour.Apastrybrushdippedinwatercanbeusedtocleantheedgesofthepanandstopthesugarfromburning.

3.Finishbycookingoveramediumheatuntil thesugar reaches155–160°Cforaclearcaramel.

4.Alternatively,heatto170–180°Cforadarkercaramel.

CHEF’SADVICE

Makingcaramelinvolvesveryhightemperatures.Donottouchortastethecaramelwhileit’s still hot. Caramel will continue to cook if it stays in the pan: 20g of butter or 3tablespoonsofwatercanbeaddedtoslowitdown.Becarefulwhenaddingcoldwaterorbutterasthetemperaturedifferencecouldcausethecarameltospit.Aclearcaramelmustbeusedstraightaway;itwillcoolandsetratherquickly.

Frenchweddingcake

CROQUEMBOUCHE

Thisisourcelebrationcake;weeatitinFranceatweddings,butalsoatchristeningsandfirstcommunion.Thesespecialcakesaremadeofcaramelizedchouxfilledwithvanillacrèmepâtissière,anddecoratedwithsugaredalmonds.Somealsohaveanougatinebase

andtheycomeinallkindsofshapes.Preparationtime:20minutes+1hour/Restingtimeinthefridge:2hours/Bakingtime:15minutesat200°C/400°F/GasMark6+15minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3todryoutYouwillneed2non-stick

bakingtraysanda20cmbowl

INGREDIENTS

1.8kgcrèmepâtissière(4×recipeonpage28)

700gchouxpastry(seeonpage18)

100gsugaredalmonds

Forthecaramel

500gcastersugar

150mlwater

1.Makethecrèmepâtissièreandrestinthefridgeforaminimumof2hours.

2.Makethechouxpastryfollowingthemethodonpage18uptostep6.On2non-stickbakingtrays,pipeitintodomes3cmindiameter,instaggeredrows,keeping4cmbetweenthem toallow them tospread.Bake themfollowing themethodonpage18.The crèmepâtissièreandthechouxcanbemadethedaybefore.Thechouxmustthenbeflashedintheovenfor2minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4beforeuse.

3. In a large bowl,whisk the crème pâtissière and fill a piping bag fittedwith a smallroundnozzle.Thepipingbagwillbeeasiertohandleifit’sonlyhalffilledwithcream.

4. With the knife tip, make a hole at the bottom of each choux and fill with crèmepâtissière.

5.Oiltheoutsideofa20cmbowlandturnitupsidedownonaworksurfacecoveredwithbakingpaper.Thiswillactasaguidewhenbuildingthefirstlayerofchoux.

6.Makeaclearcaramelfollowingthemethodonpage126.Thecaramelwillneedtobewarmeduponeortwiceduringtheprocess.

7.Build the first layer of choux.The bottomof the chouxmust be in contactwith thebowl.Withonehand,holdthefirstchouxagainst thebowlanddipthesideofasecondchouxintothecaramelwiththeotherhand.Stickthemtoeachotherononeside.Diptheside of a third choux into the caramel and stick it to the second one on its other side.

Repeatthisstepwithasmanychouxasyouneedtocompletethefirstlayer.

8.Removethebowlandfinishoffthecroquembouchebymakingsomesmallerlayersofcaramelizedchoux,placedontopofeachother,followingthestepsbelow.

9.Build thesecond layerofchoux.Dip thesideof the firstchoux into thecaramelandstickitslightlyontheinsideofthebottomlayer,between2choux.Thecaramelwillsetalmostinstantly.Diphalfofthesideofthesecondchouxandstickittothebottomlayerandthefirstchouxfromthesecondlayer.Repeatthisstepwithasmanychouxasneededtocompletethesecondlayer.

10.Repeatstep9untilthecroquemboucheiscomplete.

11.Decoratewithsugaredalmondsdippedinthecaramel.

CHEF’SADVICE

Thecroquembouchewillnotkeepformorethanhalfadayinthefridge.Afterthistime,thecaramelwillstarttomeltandweakenthestructure,andthechouxwillbecomesoggy.

Saint-Honoréchouxcake

SAINT-HONORÉ

ThiscakeisnamedafterafamousstreetinParis:leFaubourgSaint-Honoré.AChiboustcreamisthetraditionalfillingforthecakebutaChantillycreamcanbeusedinstead.Serves10/Preparationtime:2–3hours/Restingtimeinthefridge:2½+2hoursBakingtime:15

minutesat200°C/400°F/GasMark6+20minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3todryout/Youwillneed2non-stickbakingtrays

INGREDIENTS

Forthepastries


(Or250gsweetshortcrustpastry,page6)

350gchouxpastry

1beatenegg,toglaze

Forthechouxfilling


Forthecaramel(seepage126)

75mlwater

250gcastersugar

FortheFrenchmeringue(seepage36)

3eggwhites(120g)

50gcastersugar

FortheChiboustcream


450ghotcrèmepâtissière(seepage26)

150gFrenchmeringue(seepage36)

1.Make the puff pastry (see page 12) or sweet shortcrust pastry (see page 6), and thecrèmepâtissière (seepage28) for the choux fillingandplace them in the fridge.Thesestepscanbedonethedaybefore.

2.Makethechouxpastryandfillapipingbagfittedwithamedium-sizenozzle.

3.Rolloutthepastrybaseina20cmcircle,3mmthick,andplaceitonabakingtray.Prickitwithafork.Pipearingofchouxpastryallthewayaroundthepastrybase,0.5cmfrom

theside.

4. On a non-stick baking tray, pipe 25 small choux (2cm), in staggered rows, leavingenoughspacebetweenthemtospread.Brushwithbeatenegg.

5.Bake the Saint-Honoré base and the individual choux togetherwith a ramekin filledwithboilingwater at thebottomof theoven.Remove the choux10minutesbefore thepastrybaseandcoolonawirerack.

6. In a large bowl,whisk the crème pâtissière and fill a piping bag fittedwith a smallround nozzle.With a knife tip,make a hole at the bottom of each choux and fill withcrèmepâtissière.

7.Makea clear caramel.Dip the topsof8 choux into the caramel and set themupsidedownonatraylinedwithbakingpaper.Dipthetopsof8morechouxinthecaramelandthen in thenibbed sugar and set on thebakingpaper.Dip thebottomof each choux incaramelandplacethemonthecake,alternatingthecaramelizedchouxandnibbedsugar-coatedchoux.

8.TomakethecrèmepâtissièrefortheChiboustcream,soakthegelatineleavesincoldwaterfor10minutes.Makethecrèmepâtissièreandpassitthroughaveryfinesieveintoalargebowl.Whiskinthepressedgelatineleaves.Coveritwithclingfilmincontactwiththecreamandkeepitwarmoverabain-marieat65°C(seepage24).

9.Make a Frenchmeringue.Whisk the egg whites using an electric mixer at mediumspeed.Addthecastersugarattheendtofirmthemeringue.

10. To make the Chiboust cream, whisk the warm crème pâtissière and combine theFrenchmeringue,usingawhisk,in3or4additions.Usewhileit’sstillwarm.

11. Fill a piping bag fittedwith a Saint-Honoré nozzlewith themeringuemixture anddecorate the cake base. (Or make some quenelles by making oval-shape balls using 2tablespoonsinoppositedirections.)Setinthefridgefor2hours.

CHEF’SADVICE

The French meringue is made from raw egg whites, which give the Saint-Honoré itsuniquetasteandtexture.Thereforethecakeisfragile;itshouldbekeptinthefridgeandeatenwithinaday.

Pralinechouxcake

PARIS–BREST

ThecircularshapeoftheParis-Brestrepresentsthewheelsofabike.ThiscakeisnamedafterthefamousFrenchbikerace.

Serves10/Preparationtime:20+35minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:1hourBakingtime:20minutesat200°C/400°F/GasMark6+20minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3todryout/Youwillneeda

non-stickbakingtray

INGREDIENTS

40gdicedalmonds

350gchouxpastry(1/2recipeonpage18)

1beatenegg,toglaze

20gicingsugar

FortheParis-Brestcream


140gsoftbutter

90gpralinepaste(readymadeorseerecipepage194)

1.Put thedicedalmonds in abaking tray and toast them in theoven for10minutes at150°C/300°F/GasMark2.Stirthemafter5minutes.

2.Makethechouxpastryfollowingthemethodonpage18uptostep6,andfillapipingbag fitted with a medium-size nozzle. On a non-stick baking tray, place a 16cm bowlturnedupsidedown(orsomethingsimilar).Pipe2ringsofchouxpastrynexttoeachotherallthewayroundthebowl,withouttouchingit.Removethebowlandaddafinalringofchouxpastryon the topof theother two rings.Bakewitha ramekin filledwithboilingwater at the bottom of the oven without opening the oven door during cooking or thechouxcakewillcollapse.Coolonawirerack.

3.Makethecrèmepâtissièrefollowingthemethodonpage28,andcoolinthefridgefor1

hour.ItwillbeusedatroomtemperaturetomaketheParis-Brestcream.

4.BrushthecoldParis-Brestchouxshellwithbeateneggandsprinkleoversometoasteddicedalmonds.Flashitintheovenfor2minutesat150°C/300°F/GasMark2.Coolonawirerack.

5.Whisk the crème pâtissière in a large bowl and check its temperature. It should bebetween20-25°C. If it’s too cold, leave it at room temperature for 30minutesor put itbackinthefridgefor15extraminutesifit’stoowarm.

6.Usinganelectricmixer fittedwithawhisk, slowlywork the softbutter thenadd thepraline paste. Finally, add the crème pâtissière and gradually turn the speed up toincorporatesomeairintothecream.Fillapipingbagfittedwithalargeflutednozzle.

7.Cut theParis-Brest chouxbase inhalf sideways, fill itwith thecreamandput its lidbackon.Keep in thefridgeand takeout30minutesbeforeserving.Sprinklewith icingsugar.

CHAPTER6

Risingdoughs

LESPÂTESLEVÉES

Howtorollupcroissants

1.Rollouthalfofthedoughintoalongrectangle,4mmthickand16cmwide.

2. Remove any excess flour from both sides and, if the dough is sticking to the worksurface,sprinkleitwithalittleflour.Cutthedoughintotriangleswithan8cmbaseusingalargeknife.

3.Laythetriangleswiththeirbasestowardsyouandbrushthetopswithbeatenegg.

4.Roll up each triangle tight from the base to the top and transfer to a tray linedwithbakingpaper.Placethesealedjoinsunderneaththecroissants.

Howtorollupalmondcroissants

1.Rollouthalfthedoughintoalongrectangle,4mmthickand16cmwide.

2.Removeanyexcessflouronbothsidesandifthedoughisstickingtotheworksurface,sprinkle itwith little flour.Cut thedoughonto triangleswithan8cmbaseusinga largeknife(seesteps1and2onpage137).

3.Laythetriangleswiththeirbasestowardsyouandbrushthetopswithbeatenegg.Placebatonsofmarzipan(6×0.5cm)atthebaseofeachtriangle.

4.Rollupeach triangle tight fromthebase to the top,wrappingup themarzipan in themiddle, and transfer them to a tray lined with baking paper. Place the sealed joinsunderneaththealmondcroissants.

5.Glazeafterbakingwithwhitefondant:meltinthemicrowavefor1minuteatmediumpower.Oralternativelywithwhiteicing:meltinthemicrowavefor1minuteatmediumpower andmixwith a little hotwater. Sprinklewith toasted flaked almonds and set atroomtemperature.

Howtorolluppainsauchocolat

1.Rollouthalfthedoughintoalongrectangle,4mmthickand16cmwide.

2.Removeanyexcessflouronbothsidesand,ifthedoughisstickingtotheworksurface,sprinkleitwithalittlebitofflour.Place2linesofchocolatedropsorbatonsonthetopandthebottomoftherectangle,leavinga1cmgaponeachside.

3.Roll up thedoughover the chocolate starting from thebottomof the rectangle.Andrepeatthisstepwiththetopoftherectangle.

4.Brush themiddle of the doughwith beaten egg, andkeep rollingup the top and thebottomuntilitreachesthemiddle.

5.Turnover thedough and cut intopains au chocolat (roughly every7cm lengthways)withalargeknife.Transferthemtoatraylinedwithbakingpaper.

Howtorolluppainsauxraisins

1.Rollouthalfofthedoughintoasquare,4mmthick.Spreadoverathinlayerofcrèmepâtissière,leavinga3cmgapatthetopofthedough.

2.Sprinklethedrainedmaceratedraisinsoverthecrèmepâtissière.

3.Brush the3cmgapofdoughwithbeateneggandrollup thedoughstartingfromthebasetothetop.

4.Cut thepainsauxraisins2–3cmthickand transfer themon theirsides toa tray linedwithbakingpaper.

Croissants,almondcroissants,painsauchocolatandpainsauxraisins

Thisrecipewillexplaintoyouhowtomakehomemadepastries–andhowtoorganizeyourselftohavethemreadyfirstthinginthemorningforbreakfast.

Makesapproximately30/Preparationtime:45+20minutesProvingtimeforthefreshpastries:1–1½hours/Provingtimeforthefrozenpastries:overnightBakingtime:10–12minutesat180°C/350°F/Gas

Mark4/Youwillneedanon-stickbakingtray

INGREDIENTS

1.1kgcroissantdough(seepage14)

1beatenegg,toglaze

Forthealmondcroissants

50gmarzipan(cutinbatons6×0.5cm)

50gtoastedflakedalmonds(10minutesat150°C/300°F/GasMark2)

100gwhitefondantformillefeuille(or100gwhiteicing+15mlboilingwater)

Forthepainsauchocolat

150gdarkchocolatedropsorbatons

Forthepainsauxraisins


100graisinssoakedfor1hourin50mldarkrumand50mlboilingwater

1.Makethecroissantdoughfollowingthemethodonpage14.

2.Sprinklesomeflouronthedoughandontheworksurface.Dividethecroissantdoughinto2equalpiecesandput1inthefridge.

3.Makethecroissantsfollowingthemethodsonpages14and136,almondcroissants(seepage138),painsauxchocolat(seepage140)and/orpainsauxraisins(seepage142).

4.Removethesecondpieceofdoughfromthefridgeandrepeatstep3touseupallthedough.Freezethetrayofpastriesforlateruse.

5.Theeveningbefore, removeasmanypastriesasyouneedfromthefreezerandplacetheminstaggeredrowsonanon-stickbakingtray,6cmapart,andproveovernightatroomtemperature(about20°C).Thefollowingmorning,brushthemwithbeateneggandbakefor10–12minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4.Ifthepastrieshavenotquiterisenenough,start the baking in a cold oven set at 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4 and bake for 15–20minutes.

GOODTOKNOW

Theyeastisfragileandwilldieiftherawpastriesstayinthefreezerfortoolong.Iwouldadviseusingthefrozenpastrieswithinamonth.

Parisianbrioches

BRIOCHESPARISIENNES

Thesebriochesareonlyslightlysweet.Theyaretraditionallyeatenforbreakfastbuttheycouldalsobeservedtoastedasastarterwithfoiegrasandanicesaladegourmande.

Makes12/Preparationtime:20+20minutes/Provingtime:2–3hoursatroomtemperature(orovernightinthefridge)+1–2hoursforthebrioches/Restingtimeinthefridge:11/2hours(ifprovedatroom

temperature)+15minutes/Bakingtime:10–15minutesat190°C/375°F/GasMark5/Youwillneed12×9cmindiameterbriochemoulds

INGREDIENTS

600gbriochemix(seepage20)

1beatenegg,toglaze

1.Makethebriochedough,proveitfor2–3hoursatroomtemperatureandrestitfor1½hoursinthefridge.Orproveandrestitovernightinthefridge.

2.Linethebriochemouldswithbutterandflour.Turnthemoverandknockthemagainsttheworksurfacetoremovetheexcessflour.

3. Remove the brioche dough from the fridge, turn it over on a lightly floured worksurfaceusingascraper,andpressthefermentationgasoutusingthepalmsofyourhandswithoutworkingthedough.

4.Cut the dough into 12 individual pieces of 50g.Roll them into balls using theworksurfaceandthepalmsofyourhands.Placetheminthefridgefor15minutes.

5. Stretch out each ball on a work surface using your hand at a 45-degree angle. Thesmallersidewillbeusedtoformtheheadofthebrioche.Thenshapethebriocheusingthesideofyourhand likeasaw,anddivideeachball into2smallerballsofdifferent sizesconnectedbyapieceofdoughinbetween:thesmallestquarterofthedoughwillbeusedfortheheadofthebrioche,andtheremainingthree-quarterswillformthebody.

6.Put thebrioches in theirmoulds,holding themby theirsmallestend.Centre theheadandpushitintothelargestpartofthebriocheusingyourindexfingers.

7.Prove thebrioches inawarmplaceuntil theydouble in size (approx1–2hours)andbrushthemwithbeatenegg.

8.Bakethebriochesuntilgoldenbrownandcoolonawirerack.

Pinkpralinebrioche

BRIOCHEAUXPRALINESROSES

Pinkpralinesarecaramel-coatedalmonds.Whilethebriocheisbaking,thepinksugarwillmeltandformagooeysyrup.Don’tbeafraidtousemorethan75gofpinkpralines–it’s

everyonefavouritepart.Makes1largebrioche/Preparationtime:20+15minutes/Provingtime:2–3hoursatroomtemperature(orovernightinthefridge)+1–2hoursforthebrioche/Restingtimeinthefridge:1½hours(ifprovedatroomtemperature)/Bakingtime:25–30minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4Youwillneedanon-stick

bakingtray

INGREDIENTS

600gbriochemix(seepage20)

75gpinkpralines

1beatenegg,toglaze

1.Make thebriochedough,prove it for4hoursat room temperatureand rest it for1½hoursinthefridge.Orproveandrestitovernightinthefridge.

2.Crushthepinkpralinesintosmallpiecesusingalargeknifeandachoppingboard,orafoodprocessor.

3. Remove the brioche dough from the fridge, turn it over on a lightly floured worksurfaceusingascraper,andpressthefermentationgasoutwiththepalmsofyourhandswithoutworkingthedough.

4.Shapeitintoarectangle(20×30cm)andcutitlengthwaysinto3equalparts.

5.Witharollingpin,rollouteachpieceofbriocheinwidthandsprinklealineofchoppedpinkpralineacrossitslength,2cmfromthebase.Wrapthedougharoundthepinkpralinesandfinishbyrollingituptoformabaguette.Repeatthisstepwiththe2otherparts.

6.Assemblethe3partsofbriocheonanon-stickbakingtray.Hidethejoinsunderneathandlaythemsidebyside.Formaplaitandputsomechoppedpralinesintheplait’sholes.

7.Provethebriocheinawarmplaceuntilitdoublesinsize,thenbrushitwithbeatenegg.

8.Bakethebriocheuntilevenlygoldenbrownandcoolonawirerack.

ChocolateViennabreads

PAINSVIENNOISAUCHOCOLAT

Deliciousservedwithahotchocolateforbreakfastorasanafternoonsnack,theFrenchwayistodipthechocolateViennabreadinthehotchocolateuntilitbecomesall

chocolaty.Childrenofallageslovethem.Makes4×125gloafs/Preparationtime:20+15minutes/Provingtime:2–3hoursatroomtemperature(orovernightinthefridge)+1–2hoursfortheViennabreads/Restingtime:1½hoursinthefridge(ifprovedatroomtemperature)/Bakingtime:12–15minutesat180°C350°F/GasMark4/Youwillneedanon-stick

bakingtray

INGREDIENTS

8gfreshyeast



5gsalt

25gcastersugar

1mediumegg

30gsoftbutter,diced

75gdarkchocolatedrops

1beatenegg,toglaze

1.MaketheViennabreaddoughfollowingthebriochemethodonpage20,incorporatingthechocolatedropsattheend.Proveitfor2–3hoursatroomtemperatureuntilthedoughdoublesinsizeandrestitfor1½hoursinthefridge,orproveandrestitovernightinthefridge.

2.Removethedoughfromthefridge,turnitoveronalightlyflouredworksurfaceusingascraper,andpressthefermentationgasoutwiththepalmofyourhandswithoutworkingthedough.

3.Withyourhands, shape it into a rectangle(20×30cm) and cut itwith aknife into4equalpartsacrossitswidth.

4.Witharollingpin,rollouteachpieceofdoughinwidth.Fold1cmofthebaseinsidethedoughandpressgentlywithyourfingertips toseal.Repeat thisstepwiththetopendofthedough.Repeatthesestepsuntilthebottompartmeetsthetoppart.Jointhemtogetherusingyourfingertipsandrollthedoughoverusingthepalmsofyourhandstoformitintoabaguetteshape.Turnitoverontoanon-stickbakingtray.Repeatthesestepswiththe3other pieces. Place the baguettes, 5cm apart, on the baking tray, hiding the joins

underneath.

5.Cutthetopsoffthebaguettesusingthetipofaverysharpknife.

6.ProvethechocolateViennabreadsinawarmplaceuntiltheydoubleinsize(1–2hours)andbrushthemwithbeateneggbeforebakinguntilbrown.Coolonawirerack.

Kugelhopf

KOUGLOF

ThisAlsatianbriocheistraditionallyeatenforfamilySundaybreakfasts.IfyoudonotownaKugelhopfmould,youcouldusealargecaketinor2smallones,andsprinklethe

flakedalmondsatthebottom.Thiswillnotaffectitsamazingtaste.Makes1largeKugelhopf/Preparationtime:20minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:overnightProvingtime:2–3hoursinawarmplace/Bakingtime:30–40minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3Youwillneeda

22×11cmsiliconemould

INGREDIENTS

20gfreshyeast

210mlfullfatorsemi-skimmedmilk,atroomtemperature

500gwhitebreadflour

60gcastersugar

10gsalt

2mediumeggs

15mldarkrum


120gsultanas

Forthetopping

20gsoftbutter

10gflakedalmonds

20gicingsugar

Seethebriochemethodonpage20


2.Putthewhitebreadflour,castersugar,salt,eggsanddarkruminthemixingbowl.Addthe dissolved fresh yeast andwork themixwith a dough hook for 10minutes at slowspeed.

3.Add the soft butter andwork the dough until it has an even consistency and comesunstuckfromthesurfaceofthebowl.Thenaddthesultanas.

4.Withapieceofkitchenpaper,spreadoutalittlebitofoil(oliveorvegetable)inalargebowl. Place theKugelhopf dough in itsmiddle and cover the bowlwith awet cloth orclingfilm.Restovernight(12hours)inthefridge.

5.Thefollowingday,grease themouldwithsoftbutterandplace theflakedalmondsatthebottom.

6.Turnoverthedoughonaflouredworksurfaceandremovethefermentationgasusingthe palm of your hands. Shape it into a circle and make a hole in its middle using 2fingertips.Fillthemouldwiththedoughandproveinawarmplaceforabout2hoursuntilthedoughreachesthesurface.Bakeituntilgoldenbrown(onthetopandsides)andturnitoverontoawireracktocool.Sprinklewithicingsugarbeforeserving.

Saint-Tropeztart

TARTETROPÉZIENNE

BorninBrigitteBardot’stown,theSaint-TropeztartisnowfamouseverywhereinFrance.TheGrandMarniersyrupgivesititsuniquetaste–enjoyitwithafreshcitrussydrink.Serves8/Preparationtime:20minutes+1¼hoursRestingtime:overnightinthefridge/Provingtime:1½–2hours/Bakingtime:20–25minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4/Youwillneeda24cmroundcake

mould

INGREDIENTS

300gofbriochedough(½recipeonpage20)

1beatenegg,toglaze

Forthetopping(optional)

15gsoftbutter

20gcastersugar

30gplainflour

FortheSaint-Tropezcream


200gbuttercream(seepage32)

Forthesyrup

1tablespoonboilingwater

2tablespoonscastersugar

3tablespoonsGrandMarnier

1.Thebriochemixandcrèmepâtissièrecanbemade thedaybefore.Make thebriochemixfollowingthemethodonpage20,andstoreitinthefridgeovernight.

2.Makethecrèmepâtissièrefollowingthemethodonpage28andplaceinthefridge.

3.Ontheday,linethemouldwithbutterandflour.Turnitoverandknockitagainsttheworksurfacetoremoveanyexcessflour.

4.Removethebriochefromthefridge, turnitoutona lightlyflouredworksurfaceandrollitouttothesizeofthemould.Removetheexcessflourandplacethebriocheinthemould.Proveitatroomtemperatureuntilitdoublesinsizeandbrushitwithbeatenegg.

5.Forthetopping(ifused),putthesoftbutter,castersugarandflourinabowlandmixwithyourfingertipsuntilcrumbly.Sprinkleitoverthetopoftheglazedbrioche.Bakeit

untilbrownandcoolonawirerack.

6. To make the Saint-Tropez cream, make the buttercream and keep it at roomtemperature.Inabowl,work200gofcrèmepâtissièrewithawhiskandincorporate200gofthebuttercream.

7.Forthesyrup,mixtheboilingwaterwiththecastersugar,thenaddtheGrandMarnier.Allow10minutesforthesugartodissolve.

8.Cutthebriocheinhalfwidthways.Soakthebottompartofthebriocheinsyrupusingapastrybrush.SpreadtheSaint-Tropezcreamoverthecutsideandputthelidbackon.

GOODTOKNOW

Icingsugarcanbeusedinsteadofthetopping(orinadditiontothetopping)andsprinkledonthetopoftheSaint-Tropeztartjustbeforeserving.

Aveyronprunetart

TARTEAUXPRUNEAUXAVEYRONNAISE

ThisisthetraditionaldessertfromAveyron,thepartofFrancewhereIcomefrom.Athome,ItendtouseanAubracteabag,whichisaninfusionoflocalplants,insteadofanEnglishbreakfastteabag.Itdoesn’tmakeabigdifference,however,it’sjustthetradition.Serves10(24cmtart)/Preparationtime:20+15minutes/Provingtime:2hoursatroomtemperature+1hourinthefridge/Bakingtime:35–45minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4Youwillneeda24cmtarttin

INGREDIENTS

Forthefouacedough

8gfreshyeast



4gsalt

85gcastersugar

1mediumegg

1teaspoonorange-flowerwater

40gsoftbutter,diced

1beatenegg,toglaze

Fortheprunecompote

500gstoneddriedAgenprunes

50gcastersugar

2pinchesofgroundcinnamon

1teaspoonvanillaextract

1Englishbreakfastteabag

1tablespoondarkrum

1.Makethefouacedoughfollowingthebriochemethodonpage20.Provefor2hoursinawarmplace,thenputinthefridgefor1hour.Orrestovernightinthefridge.

2.Make the prune compote: put the prunes, caster sugar, ground cinnamon and vanillaextractinalargepanandcoverwithwater.Simmerfor10minutes,stirringoccasionally.Put the tea bag in the pan and infuse for 15 minutes. Drain the prunes and keep thecookingjuicetoadjusttheconsistencyofthecompote.Blitzthepruneswiththedarkrum

inafoodprocessor,graduallyaddingalittleprunecookingjuicetolightenthemix.Coolfor1houratroomtemperature.

3.Linethetarttin(seepage42)andcutawaytheexcesspastrywithaknife.Spreadouttheprunecompoteandmakealatticepatternontopwiththeleftoverdough.

4.Brushthedoughwiththebeateneggandbakethetartfor25minutes.Coveritwithfoiltopreventitfromburningandcontinuetobakeforanother10–20minutes.Coolinthetin.

CHEF’SADVICE

ServetheAveyronprunetartwithahomemadecrèmeanglaise(seepage26).

Cherryandcinnamonbriochetart

TARTEBRIOCHÉEAUXCERISES

Thebriochetartdoughiswetterthanabriochedoughandalittletrickiertorollout,butitworksverywellwithjuicyfruitslikecherries.Whenthedoughrisesintheoven,itwill

absorbthejuicereleasedbythecherriesduringbaking.Serves12(28cmtart)/Preparationtime:20+20minutes/Provingtime:2–3hoursatroomtemperature(orovernightinthefridge)/Restingtime:1½hoursinthefridge(ifprovedatroomtemperature)/Baking

time:40–45minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4Youwillneeda28cmtarttin

INGREDIENTS

Forthebriochetartdough

10gfreshyeast

45mlmilk,atroomtemperature


4gsalt

30gcastersugar

3smalleggs(150g)

80gsoftbutter,diced

Forthegarnish

100gdemerarasugar

½teaspoongroundcinnamon

600gstonedblackcherries

Toserve

Vanillaorcinnamonicecream

1.Makethebriochetartdoughfollowingthemethodonpage20.Provefor2-3hoursatroomtemperature,thenputinthefridgefor1½hours.Orrestovernightinthefridge.

2.Mixthedemerarasugarwiththegroundcinnamon.

3.Turnthedoughoutontoaflouredworksurface.Thebriochetartisalwaysalittlebitsticky. Itneeds tobe rolledout straight from the fridgewithmore flour thanused foraclassicpastry.Removetheexcessflourwithabrushoryourfingertipsandlinethetarttin(seepage42).Cutawaytheexcessdoughwithaknife.

4.Sprinkleathirdofthecinnamonsugaronthepastrybase,garnishwiththestonedblackcherriesandsprinkleanotherthirdofcinnamonsugaroverthefruit.

5. Bake for 25 minutes at 180°C/350°F/GasMark 4, then cover the tart with foil andcontinuetobakeforanother20–25minutesuntil.thepastrybaseisevenlygoldenbrown.Removethefoilandcoolinthemould.

6.Sprinklewiththelastthirdofcinnamonsugarandservewithvanillaorcinnamonicecream.

Rumbabawithvanillawhippedcream

BABAAURHUM,CRÈMEFOUETTÉEÀLAVANILLE

Myrumbabaisanodtomygrandmother.Itisinfactasavarinandnotatruebaba,butthat’swhatshewouldhavecalledit.

Serves10/Preparationtime:20+15minutes/Provingtime:1–1½hoursinawarmplaceBakingtime:25–30minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4/Youwillneeda20cmsavarinmould

INGREDIENTS

500gsavarindough(page22)

Fortherumsyrup

500mlwater

250gcastersugar


50–80mldarkrum,totaste

Forthegarnish

100gapricotjam

1tablespoonwater

1smallripepineapple

Forthevanillawhippedcream


20gcastersugar

seedsof1vanillapod

1.Makethebabafollowingthesavarinmethodonpage22.

2.Tomakethesyrup,bringthewater,castersugarandvanillaseedsandpodtotheboil.Infusethevanillafor20minutes,passitthroughasievethenaddthedarkrum,accordingtoyourtaste.

3. Place the baba on a griddle set over a high-sided large dish.Warmup the syrup (toabout60°C)andpouritoverthebabausingaladle.Repeatthisstepseveraltimesuntilthebabaiscompletelysoakedinrumsyrup.

4.Warmuptheapricot jamwithatablespoonofwaterandglazethebabawithapastrybrush.Movethebabacarefullyontoaservingtray.

5.Topandtailthepineapple,andcutoffitsskinusingalargeserratedknife.Makeafruit

saladwiththechoppedpineappleand4tablespoonsofleftoverrumsyrupandplaceinsidethebaba.

6.Beforeserving,makethevanillawhippedcreamfollowingtheChantillycreammethodonpage34andplaceitonthetopofthebaba,overthepineapplesalad.

Kirschsavarinswithcherrycompote

SAVARINSAUKIRSCH,COMPOTÉEDECERISES

Kirschsavarinsarelesscommonthantherumonesbuttheyarewellworthtasting.Kirschisaliqueurmadefromcherriesanditworksmarvellouslywithcherrycompote.

Makes8/Preparationtime:20+15minutes/Provingtime:30minutes–1hourinawarmplaceBakingtime:10–12minutesat200°C/400°F/GasMark6/Youwillneed8×7cmsavarintins

INGREDIENTS

250gsavarindough(½recipeonpage22)

Forthekirschsyrup

500mlwater

250gcastersugar

1orangezest

1lemonzest


40–60mlkirsch,totaste

Forthecherrycompote

160gcastersugar

15gcornflour

350gcherrypuréeor350mlmixedredberryjuiceorsmoothie

350mlredwine

½cinnamonstick

zestandjuiceof1lemon

zestandjuiceof1orange

1kgofblackcherries,stoned

Fortheglaze

100gapricotjam

1tablespoonwater

Toserve

300mlcrèmefraîcheorvanillawhippedcream

1.Maketheindividualsavarinsfollowingthemethodonpage22.

2. For the cherry compote, mix the cornflour with the caster sugar, then put all theingredients but the fresh cherries in a pan and bring to the boil. Leave to infuse for 5minutesoff theheat, thenpass it throughavery finesieve.Bring the liquidback to theboil with the cherries and cook it gently for 5 minutes. Cool in the pan at roomtemperaturewithapieceofgreaseproofpaperorclingfilmincontact(tostopthetopofthecherriesdryingout).

3.Forthekirschsyrup,bringthewater,castersugar,orangezest,lemonzestandvanillaseedsandpod to theboil. Infuse thezests andvanilla for20minutes,pass it throughasievethenaddthekirsch,accordingtoyourtaste.

4.Placetheindividualsavarinsupsidedowninahigh-sideddishandpouroverthesyrup.Whenthey’redoubledinsize,turnthembackupfor15moreminutes.Transferthemtoagriddletoremovetheexcesssyrup.

5.Warmuptheapricotjamwithatablespoonofwaterandusetoglazethesavarinswithapastrybrush.

6.Servethesavarinswiththewarmcherrycompoteandageneroustablespoonofcrèmefraîcheorvanillawhippedcream(seepage156).

CHAPTER7

Flans,creamsandeggbatters

LESFLANS,CRÈMESETDESSERTSAUXŒUFS

Cherryclafoutis

CLAFOUTISAUXCERISES

ThistraditionaldessertfromLimousin(inthecentreofFrance)isreallypopularinFrance.It’ssosimpletomake,youdon’tevenhavetoremovethecherrystones.Theyactuallyaddsomeextraflavourtotheclafoutismix.Butdon’tforgettowarnyourguestsaboutthem!Serves8/Preparationtime:15minutes/Bakingtime:25–35minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3You

willneeda24cmbakingdish

INGREDIENTS

2mediumeggs

4eggyolks

150gcastersugar

20gplainflour




Forthegarnish

15gbutter,forgreasing

500gblackcherries

20gicingsugar

1.Inalargebowl,whisktogethertheeggs,yolksandcastersugar,thenaddtheplainflour.

2.Inapan,bringthecream,milkandthevanillaseedsandpodtotheboil.Pouritslowlyon the topof the eggmix,whiskingcontinuously asyoudo.Pass the clafoutismixturethroughaveryfinesieveandskimthesurfacewithaladle.

3.Greasethebakingdishwithbutterandputinthecherries.

4.Pourtheclafoutismixoverthecherriesandbakeituntilthemixissetandgoldenonthetop.Coolinthedishatroomtemperature.

5.Serveslightlywarmoratroomtemperaturedustedwithicingsugar.

Mygrandmother’spearclafoutis

CLAFOUTISAUXPOIRESDEMAMIE

ThisisoneofthefirstfamilyrecipesthatIlearnt.It’sverysimpleanddelicious,andcanbemadewithanykindoffruit.Whenyoudoit,remembertoscrapetheinsideofthe

eggshellswithyourindexfinger,likemygrandmotherusedtodo.Serves8/Preparationtime:20minutes/Bakingtime:25–35minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3You

willneeda24cmbakingdish

INGREDIENTS

500mlsemi-skimmedorfullfatmilk

50gbutter

60gplainflour

75gcastersugar

3mediumeggs

Forthegarnish


4ripeConferencepears

20gicingsugar

1.Bringthemilkandbuttertotheboil.Puttheflourandcastersugarinabowlandpourthemilkandbuttermixslowlyoverthetop,whiskingallthetime.Addtheeggs,thenpassitthroughaveryfinesieveandskimitwithaladle.

2.Greasethedishwithbutter.

3. Peel, cut in half and core the pears. Slice them into 0.5–1cm pieces and place theminsidetheclafoutisdish.

4.Pourtheclafoutismixovertheslicedpearsandbakeuntilsetandgoldenbrownontop.Coolinthedishatroomtemperature.

5.Serveslightlywarmoratroomtemperature,dustedwithicingsugar.

WestIndianflan

FLANANTILLAIS

Afterbaking,theWestIndianflanisdividedinto3layers:thedesiccatedcoconutfloatsonthetop,formingasponge,arichandcreamyflanliesinthemiddleandarunnycaramel

saucesitsatthebottomofthedish.Serves8/Preparationtime:20minutes/Bakingtime:50minutes–1hourat140°C/275°F/GasMark1in

abain-marie(seepage24)/Youwillneeda24cmbakingdish

INGREDIENTS

Forthecaramel

150gcastersugar

50+25mlwater

Fortheflanfilling

1smallcanofcondensedmilk(400g)


3mediumeggs,separated

100gdesiccatedcoconut

2tablespoonsdarkrum

1.Makeacaramel(170°C)followingthemethodonpage126,then,offtheheatandverycarefully,add25mlofwater.Thiswillhelp thecaramel tomeltduringbaking.Pour thecaramelvevenlyoverthebottomofthebakingdishandleaveittoset.

2. In a large bowl, mix the condensed milk with the egg yolks, then add the milk,desiccatedcoconutanddarkrum.

3. In a electricmixer onmedium speed,whisk the eggwhites to a peak (seepage38).Incorporateathirdoftheeggwhiteswiththeflanfilling,followedbythelasttwo-thirdswithoutoverworking it,makingacircularmovement fromthebottomupwardswith thespatulainonehand,givingaquarterturntothebowlwiththeother.Keepdoingthisuntilthemixiscombined.

4.Pourtheflanfillinginthedish,overthesetcaramel.Bakeitinabain-marie(seepage24)byplacingtheflandishintheoveninsidealargerhigh-sidedtrayfilledwith3cmofboilingwater.Checkafter45minutesbygentlyshakingtheflandish.Theflaniscookedwhenthecoconutspongeonthetopoftheflanisset.Coolatroomtemperature.

Frenchtoast

PAINSPERDUS

Delicious,fastandcheap,thisistheperfectcomfortfood,orserveitasaposhbreakfastforallthefamily.StalebreadiscommonlyusedinFranceinsteadofthebrioche:thereare

alwayssomepiecesofleftoverbaguettewhichneedtobeusedup!Serves4/Preparationtime:20minutes/Cookingtime:5minutesYouwillneedamedium-sizefrying

pan

INGREDIENTS

6mediumeggs

60gcastersugar



75gfreshdoublecream

8thickslicesofbrioche,cutintohalves

30gbutter

Forthetopping

icingsugar,todust

strawberryjamandfreshstrawberriestoserve

1. In a bowl, whisk the eggs with the caster sugar and the vanilla (seeds and pod orextract),thenaddthemilkandcreamtomakeabatter.

2.Place thebriochehalves flat in thedishandpourover thebatter throughavery finesieve.Soakthebriocheforafewminutesuntilthebattersoaksintoit,thenturnthemover.

3.Meltaknobofbutterinafryingpan.Removethebriochecarefullyfromthedish,oneata time,andhold itbetweenyour fingers fora fewseconds todrain theexcessbutter.Cookthematamediumheat inbatchesuntil theyaregoldenbrown.Turnthemover tofinishoffthecooking.

4. Sprinkle the French toastwith icing sugar and servewarmwith strawberry jam andfreshstrawberries.

Howtomakeapancakemix

1.Inalargebowl,puttheplainflour,castersugarandsalt.

2.Makeawellinitsmiddleandaddtheeggs.

3.Whisktheeggsinthewellandaddasmallquantityofmilk.

4.Startwhiskingfromthemiddleofthewellandgraduallyincorporatesomeflour.

5.Keepwhiskingandincorporatealternatelysomeflourfromthesideof thewellandalittlemoremilk inorder tomakea thickpaste.Thismethodwillavoid theformationoflumps.

6.When the flour is completelymixed, add the rest of themilk followed by the freshdoublecream.

7.Addthehotmeltedbutterandblitzwithahandblender.

8.Rest in the fridge for30minutesbeforecooking.Whisk for1minutebeforeuseandcheckitsconsistency.Addanextra30–50mlofmilkifthemixturehasbecomethicker.

OrangeandGrandMarnierpancakes

CRÊPESSUZETTE

Usually,theGrandMarnierispouredoverthepancakeattheendoftherecipe,inaveryhotpan,andflambéedrightawayinfrontoftheguests.Butthisstageisnotnecessaryif

youdon’tfeelconfident.Serves4/Preparationtime:15minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:30minutes(orovernightwithoutthecastersugar)/Cookingtime:20minutes(1–2minuteseachpancake)+5minutesforthecaramel/Youwill

needa24cmpancakepanorfryingpan

INGREDIENTS

Forthepancakemix

150gplainflour

20gcastersugar

½teaspoonsalt

2mediumeggs

320mlfullfatmilk


40gmeltedbutter


Fortheorangecaramel

60gcastersugar

20gbutter

Thejuiceof2oranges

40mlGrandMarnier

1.Makethepancakemixfollowingthemethodonpage174.

2.Greasethepancakepanwithasmallpieceofbutterandremovetheexcesswithsomekitchenpaper.Pourasmall ladleofmixinto thehotpanandspreaditoutbytiltingthepan.Cookthepancakefor30secondsto1minuteuntilitstartstocolourandturnitoverusingaspatula.

3. Grease the pan using the same kitchen paper and eventually somemore butter, andfinishoffcookingtherestofthepancakemix.Pilethemontopofeachothertokeepthemwarm.Foldthepancakesintoquartersandwipethepanclean.

4.Tomaketheorangecaramel,sprinklethecastersugarinthepan,putitoveramedium

heat and make a dry caramel by melting the caster sugar for a few minutes until itbecomesbrown.TurndowntheheatandstirinthebutterfollowedbytheorangejuiceandtheGrandMarnier.

5.Putthepancakesbackinthepan(4or8atatime,dependingonsize)andreducetheorangecaramelfor1or2minutesbeforeserving.(Alternatively,warmupthepancakesinthemicrowaveandpouroverthereducedorangecaramel.)

Floatingislands

ŒUFSÀLANEIGE

Traditionally,theeggwhitesarepoachedinthemilkthatwillbeusedtomakethecrèmeanglaise,orbakedinramekinsinabain-marie(seepage24),butthemodernwaynowis

tousethemicrowave.It’ssofastandeasy–justbrilliant!Serves6/Preparationtime:15+15minutes/Cookingtime:5+15minutesCoolingtime:30minutesfor

thecrèmeanglaise

INGREDIENTS

400gcrèmeanglaise(seepage26)

50gflakedalmonds

FortheFrenchmeringue

2eggwhites(80g)

50gcastersugar

1tablespoonvegetableoroliveoil

Forthecaramel

125gcastersugar

40mlwater

1.Makethecrèmeanglaise.

2.Put theflakedalmondsonabakingtrayandtoast themintheovenfor10minutesat150°C/300°F/GasMark2.Stirthemafter5minutes.

3.MakeaFrenchmeringuebywhiskingtheeggwhitestoasoftpeak(seepage38)andgraduallyincorporatethecastersugar.Carryonwhiskinguntilstiffpeaksform.

4.Oil2platesandshapetheFrenchmeringueintoeggformsusing2tablespoons.Make12portions(6oneachplate).Cookthemfor30seconds in themicrowaveatmaximumpower(900W)andcoolatroomtemperature.

5.Filla largeservingbowlor6individualdisheswiththecrèmeanglaiseandplacethecookedeggwhitesonthetop.

6.Makeacaramel(nottoodark)followingthemethodonpage126andspoonitoverthetopofthefloatingislands.Sprinklewithtoastedflakedalmondsjustbeforeserving.

EarlGreycrèmebrûlée

CRÈMEBRÛLÉEAUTHÉEARLGREY

TheflavouroftheEarlGreyteaispreservedinacoldinfusionovernight.Thiswillpreventthecrèmebrûléefromtastingtootannicandallowtheblackteaandbergamotto

expresstheirtrueflavours.Serves8/Preparationtime:20minutes/Infusiontimeinthefridge:12hours(overnight)Bakingtime:

50minutes–1hourat110°C/225°F/GasMark¼inabain-marie(seepage24)Coolingtimeinthefridge:4hours/Youwillneed8×8cmramekinsandahigh-sidedbakingtray

INGREDIENTS



35glooseEarlGreytealeaves

8eggyolks

110gcastersugar

40gcastersugartocaramelize

1.Thenightbefore,putthemilkandcreaminabowlandstirinthelooseEarlGreytealeaves.Cover thebowlwithclingfilmandplace it in thefridgefor12hours tomakeacoldinfusion.

2.Thefollowingmorning,pass theEarlGreyinfusionthoughadoublemuslinorafinecloth.

3.Inalargebowl,whisktheeggyolkswiththecastersugarfor1minute.Bringthesievedmilk, creamand tea infusion to theboil andpoor it slowlyon the topof theyolks andcastersugar,stirringcontinuously.

4.Passthecrèmebrûléemixthroughaveryfinesieveandskimthesurfaceusingaladleoratablespoon.

5.Place8ramekinsinahigh-sidedbakingtrayandfill themwiththemix.Pour3cmofboilingwaterintothebottomofthetrayandbakethecrèmesbrûléesinastatic(fanturnedoff)oven.Alternatively,clingfilmthebakingtraywithaheat-resistantclingfilmallthewayaroundtomakeitairtightandbaketheminafanoven.

6.After45minutes, shake the traygently, andkeepcheckingevery5minutesuntil thecreamissetlikeajelly,gentlymovinginthemiddle.(Removetheclingfilm).Coolinthetray for15minutes at room temperature thenput thecrèmesbrûlées in the fridge for4hours.

7.Drythetopofthecrèmesbrûléeswithkitchenpaperifneeded,coverthemwithathin

layerofcastersugarandcaramelizethemusingablowtorch.

CHEF’STOPTIP

ServewithBretonsbiscuits(page238),flakedalmondtuiles(page234)orfingerbiscuits(page242).

Mymother’scrèmecaramel

CRÈMECARAMELDEMAMAMAN

Crèmecaramelsareveryeasytomake.Mymothermakesthematleastonceamonthandlikestousefreshfarmmilk.Theycanbeeatenstraightfromtheramekinorturnedupside

downonaplate.Serves8/Preparationtime:20minutes/Cookingtime:5minutes/Bakingtime:20–30minutesat

140°C/275°F/GasMark1inabain-marie(seepage24)/Coolingtimeatroomtemperature:3hours/Youwillneed8×8cmramekinsandahighsided-bakingtray

INGREDIENTS

Forthecaramel

150gcastersugar

50+25mlwater

Forthecrèmecaramelfilling

500mlfullfatmilk

1tablespoonvanillaextract

2mediumeggs

65gcastersugar

1.Placethe8ramekinsinahigh-sidedbakingtray.

2.For the caramel,make a slightlydark caramel (170-175°C) following themethodonpage126,thenadd25mlofwaterofftheheattoslowdownthecooking.Thiswillhelpthecarameltomeltduringbaking.Becarefulwhenaddingthewaterasthecaramelwillspit.

3.Pourthecaramelintotheramekinsstraightawayasitwillcontinuetocookifleftinthepan.

4.Tomakethecrèmecaramelfilling,inalargebowl,whisktheeggswiththecastersugar.Inapan,bringthemilkandvanillaextracttotheboilandpouritovertheeggsandcastersugarwhilewhisking.Passitthoughaveryfinesieveandfilltheramekins.

5. Pour 3cm of boiling water into the bottom of the baking tray and cook the crèmecaramels in a bain-marie (see page24) for 20–30minutes at 140°C/275°F/GasMark 1untilitissetlikeajelly.Coolatroomtemperature.

CHEF’STOPTIP

Servethecrèmecaramelwithcrispcinnamonbiscuits(page252)orNini’ssablés (page240).

Darkchocolateandorangemousse

MOUSSEAUCHOCOLATNOIRÀL’ORANGE

Using55%darkchocolatewillstopthemoussefromsettinghardinthefridge.Ifyouwanttouseadarkerchocolate,Iwouldrecommendyouaddanextraeggand30mlof

freshdoublecreamtotheoriginalrecipe.Youcanalsochangeitsflavourbyaddingafewdropsofmintorcoffeeextractinsteadoftheorangepeel.Orjustenjoyitplain.

Serves6/Preparationtime:15minutes/Settingtimeinthefridge:2hoursYouwillneed6medium-sizeglassesorcupsasservingdish

INGREDIENTS

180g55%darkchocolate



zestof1orange(peeled)

20gsoftbutter

3mediumeggs

20gcastersugar

1.Chopthedarkchocolateandputitinalargebowl.

2. In a pan, bring the cream, milk and orange zest to the boil, and pour it over thechocolatethroughasieve.Stirwithaspatulauntilthechocolateiscompletelymelted.

3.Dicethesoftbutterandstiritintothemix.

4.Whiskthe3eggwhitesandcastersugartofirmpeaks(seepage38)andaddthe3eggyolksattheend.

5.Incorporateone-thirdoftheeggmixtothechocolate,makingacircularmovementfromthebottomupwardswith the spatula inonehand,andgivingaquarter turn to thebowlwiththeother.Thenfoldintheremainingtwo-thirdsoftheeggmix.

6.Fillthe6individualdishesandsettheminthefridgeforaminimumof2hours.Takethemoutofthefridge15minutesbeforeserving.

CHEF’STOPTIP

Serve the dark chocolate and orangemoussewith plain crunchy biscuits such as rolled(page244),Bretons(page238)orheart-shapedbiscuits(page250).

Coffee,vanillaandchocolatebavarois

BAVAROISCAFÉ,VANILLEETCHOCOLAT

Thisisaveryold-fashioneddessert.Thecombinationofcoffee,vanillaandchocolateisalwaysawinner.Classicsaretimeless,butIdiduselessgelatineleavesthanis

traditionallyusedinthiskindofdessert.Serves8/Preparationtime:45minutes/Restingtimeatroomtemperature:30minutesRestingtimeinthefridge:15×2minutes(betweenlayers)/Cookingtime:5minutesYouwillneed8servingglasses+8

mugsorglasses

INGREDIENTS


Forthecrèmeanglaise

4eggyolks

120gcastersugar

125mlsemi–skimmedorfullfatmilk


2vanillapods(openedandscraped)

Forthe3-flavourbavaroiscream




1or2teaspoonscoffeeextract

1.Soakthegelatineleavesincoldwaterfor10minutes.

2.Make thecrèmeanglaise following themethodonpage26.Press thegelatine leavesbetweenyourhandstoremovetheexcesswaterandaddthemtothecrèmeanglaise.Stirwithawhiskandcoolatroomtemperaturefor30minutes.

3.Makethebavaroiscream:whisk500mlofcreamintoasoftandrunnywhippedcream.Pouritoverthecrèmeanglaiseandmixwithaspatula.

4.Chopthechocolateandputitinalargebowl.Bringthe50mlofcreamtotheboilandpour it over the chocolate. Stirwith a spatula until it ismelted.Weigh out 300gof thebavaroiscreamand incorporate it into thechocolatemix, startingwitha smallquantity.Pourthechocolatebavaroiscreamintoajugorapipingbag.

5.Placethe8servingglassesover8otherglassesormugs,ata45-degreeangle,andpour

inthechocolatebavaroiscream.Setinthefridgefor15minutes.

6.Stirtheremainingbavaroiscreamandweighout350ginajugorpipingbag,touseitasitisforthevanillalayer.

7.Removetheglassesfromthefridge,rotatethemone-thirdtotherightandpourinthevanillabavarois.Setinthefridgefor15minutes.

8.Flavourtheremaining350gbavaroiscreamwith1or2teaspoonsofcoffeeextract,totaste.Removetheglassesfromthefridge,putthemflatontheworksurfaceandtopwiththecoffeebavarois.Putinthefridgeandremove15minutesbeforeserving.

Lemonsoufflé

SOUFFLÉAUCITRON

I’malittlebitfussywhenitcomestosoufflés;Ifindthattheysometimestastetooeggy,whichiswhyIlovethisrecipe–thelemoncrèmepâtissièregivesthesouffléstheir

incrediblyrichtasteandverylighttexture.Justamazing!Serves6/Preparationtime:30minutes/Cookingtime:5minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:1hour/

Bakingtime:8–10minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4/Youwillneed6ramekins

INGREDIENTS

Forthelemoncrèmepâtissière


zestof1lemon

4eggyolks

50gcastersugar

25gplainflour

150mlsievedlemonjuice(2–3lemons)

Forthemould

30gsoftbutter

30gcastersugar

Forthesoufflémix

260glemoncrèmepâtissière

2eggyolks

4eggwhites

60gcastersugar

1.Bringthemilkwiththelemonzesttotheboilandmakethecrèmepâtissièrefollowingthemethodonpage28.Stirinthelemonjuice,coverwithclingfilmincontactwiththesurfaceofthecreamandplaceinthefridgeforaminimumof1hour.

2.Brush theramekinswithsoftbutterandput themin thefridgefor15minutes.Brushwithbutterasecondtimeandcoatwithcastersugar.

3.Forthesoufflémix,inalargebowl,put260goflemoncrèmepâtissièreandwhiskintheeggyolks.Usinganelectricmixeratmediumspeed,whisk theeggwhites toa softpeak(seepage38)andgraduallyadd thecastersugar.Whisk themeringue topeak(seepage38).Foldathirdofthewhippedeggwhitesintothelemonmix,thentheremaining

two-thirds,makingacircularmovementfromthebottomupwardswiththespatulainonehand,andgivingaquarterturntothebowlwiththeother.

4.Filltheramekinsusingatablespoonorapipingbagfittedwithalargenozzle.Flattenthem outwith a pallet knife andwipe clean the top of each ramekin using your indexfinger.Bakeandservestraightaway.

CHEF’STOPTIP

The soufflémix, raw and baked, is quite fragile andwill collapse rather quickly. Theymustbemade,bakedandservedstraightaway.It isdeliciousonitsownorservedwithfreshraspberries,astrawberrysaladoracherrysorbet.

CHAPTER8

Spongecakes

LESPÂTESÀBISCUIT

Apricotjamrouladecake

BISCUITROULÉÀLACONFITURED’ABRICOT

Thisverylight,butter-freecakeisreallyeasyandfasttomake;itwillsaveyoufromanylast-minutebirthdaycakeemergenciesandbothchildrenandparentsloveit.Youcanvary

theflavourofthejamoruseachocolateandhazelnutspreadinstead.Serves8/Cookingtime:5minutes(forjam)/Preparationtime:30minutesBakingtime:10–12minutes

at180°C/350°F/GasMark4Youwillneeda30×40cmbakingtray

INGREDIENTS

450ggénoisemix(seepage24)

Forthehomemadeapricotjam

300gripeapricots,stonedanddiced

180ggranulatedsugar

(Or1smalljarofapricotjam)

1.Tomaketheapricotjam,placethedicedapricotsandgranulatedsugarinapan.Bringitto theboiloveramediumheat,andcookitfor5minutes,stirringcontinuously.Coolatroomtemperature.

2.Makethegénoisespongemixturefollowingthemethodonpage24.

3.Spreaditoutevenly to8mm–1cmthickona tray linedwithasiliconematorbakingpaper.Ifthespongeistoothickitmighttearwhenyoumaketheroulade.Bakeitstraightaway,turningthetrayintheovenafter7–8minutestofinishbakinguntilgoldenbrown.

4.Whilethespongeisstillhot,usethetipofaknifetoseparateitfromthetrayandturnitupside down onto a clean kitchen cloth. Remove the tray and carefully peel away thesiliconemator thebakingpaper.Place the rectanglespongewith thewideredge facingyouandtrimeachsidewithaknifetoremovethedryparts.

5.Spreadoveragenerouslayerofapricotjam,leaving3cmjam-freeatthetopedge.

6.Maketherouladebystartingtorollfromthebottomoftherectangletothetop.Usetheclothtoliftupandholdthespongewhilerolling.Thebeginningoftherollmustbetightinordertogetaperfectlyroundrouladecake.Finishwiththejoinunderneath.

GOODTOKNOW

Theapricotjamcanbestoredinjarsandkeptuptoayearinacellaroracool,darkplace.Thejarsmustbefilledtothetopstraightaftercooking,whilethejamisstillboilinghot.Placethelidsonandturnthejarsupsidedowninordertosterilizetheairinsidethem.Thefollowingday,turnthemtherightwayupandstorethem.

Howtomakeahomemadepralinepaste

1.Puttheblanchedalmondsandtheblanchedhazelnutsinabakingtray,andtoastthemintheovenfor10minutesat150°C/300°F/GasMark2.Shake the tray in theovenafter5minutestoevenupthebaking.

2.Putthecastersugarandwaterinalargepanandbringthemtotheboilatahighheat.Cookthesyrupto115°Cusingaprobeorasugarthermometer.

3.Addthetoastednutsandturntheheatdown.

4.Stirwithaspatula;thesugarwillcrystallizeandcoatthenuts.

5.Keepstirringatalowheatuntilthesugarcaramelizesevenlywithoutburning.Coolonbakingpaper.

6.Blitzthecaramelizednutsinafoodprocessorfor10–15minutes.

7.Thepralinepastemustberunny,almostliquid,warmbutnothot.Keepitinthefridge.As thenatural fatcontentof thenuts tends toseparateand rise to the top, stir thepastebeforeuse.

PralineChristmaslog

BÛCHEDENOËLAUPRALINÉ

ThispâtisserieiseateninFranceonChristmasday.TheclassicChristmaslogsaremadewithaspongebiscuitandaflavouredbuttercream.Butallsortsofsweetvariationscannowbefound:triooficecreamsandsorbets,orfruitsandmousseChristmaslogs.

Serves10/Preparationtime:1½hours/Cookingtime:5+10minutesBakingtime:10–12minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4/Youwillneeda30×40cmbakingtray

INGREDIENTS

Forthehomemadepralinepaste

150gblanchedalmonds

150gblanchedhazelnuts

85gcastersugar

50mlwater

Forthesyrup

60gcastersugar

40mlwater

Forthesponge


Forthepralinebuttercream

550gbuttercream(seepage32)

80gpralinepaste(homemadeorreadymade)

Forthedecoration

150gdicedhazelnuts

42gcastersugar

24mlwater

10ggratedwhitechocolate

1.Makethehomemadepralinepaste,ifusing,followingthemethodonpage194.

2.Forthesyrup,inapan,bringthecastersugarandthewatertotheboil.Coolatroomtemperature.

3.Makethegénoisespongemix.Spreaditoutevenlyto8mm–1cmthickonatraylinedwithasiliconematorbakingpaper.Ifthespongeistoothickitmighttearwhenyouroll

uptheChristmaslog.Bakeitfor7minutes,turnthetrayintheovenandbakeforanother3–5minutesuntilgoldenbrown.

4.Withaknifetip,separatethespongefromthebakingtray.Turnthewarmgénoiseoverontoacleankitchenclothandpeeloffthebakingpaperorthesiliconemat.Brushwiththesyrupwhile it’swarmand trimeach sideof the spongewith a knife to remove thedryparts.

5.Makethebuttercreamfollowingtherecipeonpage32,butwithoutthevanillapods.Setaside 2 tablespoons of plain buttercream to garnish the inside of the branch, andincorporatetheremainderwiththepralinepaste.

6. Put the diced hazelnuts on a baking tray and toast them for 15 minutes at150°C/300°F/GasMark 2, shaking the tray every 5 minutes. Caramelize the hazelnutsfollowingsteps2–5ofthepralinepastemethodonpage194.Coolonbakingpaperandbreakthemdownbyhand.

7.Placethespongewithoneofthewidestedgesfacingyouandspreadoverathinlayerofpralinebuttercream,leavingthetopedge3cmfreeofcream.

8.RolltheChristmaslogstartingfromthebottomoftherectangle.Thebeginningoftherollmust be tight in order to get a perfectly roundChristmas log. Finishwith the joinunderneaththecake.

9.SliceoffasmallpieceoftheChristmaslogonthediagonal,placeitonthetoptomakea branch and cover its middle with the plain buttercream. Cover the rest of cake withhazelnut buttercream and use a fork to decorate it. Coat the sides with caramelizedhazelnutsandgratesomewhitechocolateoverthetopforthesnow.Keepinthefridgeandleavefor15minutesatroomtemperaturebeforeserving.

Coffeemoka

MOKAAUCAFÉ

Thisisdefinitelyoneofmyfavouritecakes.Ijustlovethecontrastbetweenthelightgénoisespongeandtherichcoffeebuttercream.Irecommendkeepingtheleftoverdiced

almondsandsprinklingthemoneachsliceofcake.It’ssuperdeliciousthisway.Serves8/Preparationtime:20+35minutes/Cookingtime:5minutesBakingtime:25–30minutesat

160°C/325°F/GasMark3Youwillneeda20cmsquareorroundcaketin

INGREDIENTS


Forthecoffeebuttercream

275gplainbuttercream(½recipeseepage32)

1–2tablespoonscoffeeextract

(or1teaspooninstantcoffee+1teaspoonboilingwater)

Forthegarnish

150gdicedalmonds

Forthecoffeesyrup

5teaspoonscastersugar

1shortespressoorstrong,shortinstantcoffee

1.Makethegénoisespongemixfollowingthemethodonpage24,bakeitandleaveittocooldown.

2.Makethebuttercreamfollowingthemethodonpage32,andflavouritwiththecoffeeextracttotaste.Keepitatroomtemperature.

3.Put thedicedalmondsonabaking trayand toast them in theoven for10minutesat150°C/300°F/GasMark2.Stirthemafter5minutesandcarryonbaking.

4.Makethecoffeesyrupbyaddingthecastersugartothehotcoffee.

5.Turnthegénoiseupsidedownandsplititsidewaysin2equallayers.Soaktheinsideofthe bottompartwith the coffee syrup using a pastry brush, then spread over a layer ofcoffeebuttercream(7mm–1cmthick).Soaktheinsideofthetoppartofthegénoisewiththecoffeesyrupandplaceitonthetopofthebuttercream.

6. Spread some coffee buttercream all over themoka, smoothing it on topwith a longspatulaorknife.Coatitssideswiththetoasteddicedalmonds.

7.Fillapipingbagfittedwithasmallflutednozzlewiththerestofthecoffeebuttercream

anddecoratethetopofthemoka.

CHEF’SADVICE

Themokamustbekeptinacoolplaceorinthefridge,andtakenout30minutesbeforeserving.Thebuttercreamtastesbetterservedcoolbutnotcold.

BakedAlaska

OMELETTENORVÉGIENNE

It’sthecontrastbetweenthecoldicecreamandthehotmeringuethatmakesthisdessertspecial.Thewhippedeggwhitesdonotconductheatwell,whichallowstheAlaskatobebakedforafewminuteswithoutmeltingtheicecream.It’sascientific‘magictrick’!

Serves8/Preparationtime:20+40minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:overnight/Bakingtime:15–20minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4forthesponge,2minutesat250°C/480°F/GasMark9forthemeringue(optional)/Youwillneeda20cmovalcaketinanda20cmovalbowlora24cmrectanglecaketin

INGREDIENTS

225ggénoise(½recipeonpage24)

Forthevanillaicecream(youcanalsouseready-madeicecream)

8eggyolks

80gcastersugar



1tablespoonglucosesyrup

Forthesyrup

1tablespoonboilingwater

2tablespoonscastersugar

3tablespoonsGrandMarnier

FortheFrenchmeringue(seepage36)

3eggwhites(120g)

200gcastersugar

1.Thedaybefore,makethevanillaicecreamfollowingthecrèmeanglaiserecipeonpage26.Addtheglucosesyrupattheend,offtheheat.Restovernightinthefridgeandchurnitinanice-creammakerthenextmorning.Alternativelyyoucanofcourseuseready-madeicecream.

2.Ontheday,makeagénoisespongefollowingthemethodonpage24,and leave it tocooldown.

3.Forthesyrup,bringthewaterandcastersugartotheboil,coolfor15minutesandaddtheGrandMarnier.

4.BrushthegénoisewithGrandMarniersyrup.Fillthebowlortinwithvanillaicecream,placethegénoiseontopandsetitinthefreezerforaminimumof12hours.

5.BeforeservingmaketheFrenchmeringuebywhiskingtheeggwhiteswiththecastersugartopeak.

6. Place the ice-cream cake bowl/tin in a larger bowl filled with hot water for a fewsecondsandturnitout.

7. Spread over the meringue with a spatula and place the cake in a very hot oven(250°C/480°F/GasMark9)for2minutes.Orburnthemeringuewithablowtorch.Servestraightaway.

HowtoflambéaBakedAlaskaBakedAlaskacanbeflambéedwithGrandMarnierinfrontofyourguests.Warmup50mlofGrandMarnierinapan,lightitcarefullyandpouritovertheBakedAlaska.Itlooksquitespectacularandtastesreallygood,butonthedownsideittendstoburnthemeringueandmakeitabitsoggy.

Strawberryandpistachiocreamsponge

FRAISIERÀLAPISTACHE

Thiscakeisusuallymadewithavanillacreampreparedwithhalfbuttercreamandhalfcrèmepâtissière.MypistachioFraisierisadeliciousmoderntakeonaclassicFrench

cake.Serves12/Preparationtime:20+40minutes/Bakingtime:10–12minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4/

Settingtimeinthefridge:8hours/Youwillneeda20×6cmring,abakingtrayandablowtorch

INGREDIENTS

450gofgénoisemix(seepage24)

Forthekirschsyrup

25gcastersugar

50mlwater

2tablespoonskirschorstrawberryliqueur

Forthegarnish

250gmarzipan

30gicingsugar,todust

2punnetsoflargestrawberries(500geach)

25gwhitechocolate,melted

Forthepistachiocream


30gcastersugar

15mlwater


80–100gpistachiopaste,totaste(readymadeorhomemade,followmethodforpralinepastepage194,withoutdoingstep1)

1.Make the génoisemix folowing themethod on page 24,without baking. Spread themixtureoutina1cmlayeronabakingtraylinedwithasiliconematorbakingpaperusingaspatula.Thespongemustbelargeenoughtocut2ringsof20cm.Bakeitfor7minutes,turnthetrayandbakeforanother3–5minutesuntilgoldenbrown.Coolonthetray.

2.Forthekirschsyrup,putthewaterandsugarinasmallpanandbringthemtotheboil.

Coolthesyrupfor15minutesthenaddthekirschorstrawberryliqueur.

3. Turn the sponge over onto thework surface and gently peel off the siliconemat orbakingpaper.Placetheringoveritandcutthe2circlesusingasharpknifeontheoutsideofthering.

4.Rolloutthemarzipanwithicingsugarandcutacirclearoundtheoutsideofthering.Placethemarzipanonabakingtrayandcaramelizeitusingablowtorch.

5.Puttheringonaservingtrayandplaceacircleofgénoiseinthebase.Soakitinalittlebitofkirschsyrupusingapastrybrush.

6.Putthestrawberriesinacolanderandwashthemquicklyundercoldwater.Drainandput them on a clean cloth to dry. Cut the bottoms off. Garnish the cake with half-strawberriesaroundtheinsideoftheringandsomewholestrawberriesinsidethecake.

7.Makethepistachiocream:Soakthegelatineleavesincoldwaterfor10minutes.Bringthecaster sugar andwater to theboil and,off theheat, add thepressedgelatine leaves.Whiskthecreamwiththepistachiopasteandaddthegelatinesyrupwhenitstartstorise.Thepistachiocreammustdoubleinsizebutstillberunnyenoughtobepouredoverthestrawberries.

8. Put the second circle of génoise on the top, soak it with the syrup and place thecaramelizedmarzipanontop.Setinthefridgefor8hours.

9. Before serving, blowtorch all the way around the ring to melt the edges and thenremovetheringbyliftingitupwithakitchencloth.Decoratethecakewithstrawberriesusingsomemeltedwhitechocolatetostickthemontothecake.

Howtomakechocolateshavings

Recipefor150gofchocolateshavingsmadewithtemperedchocolate.

1.Chop50gofdarkchocolate(orone-thirdoftotalquantity)withalargeknife.

2.Melt 100gof dark chocolate (or two-thirds of total quantity) in themicrowave for 1minuteatamediumpower.Stirwithaspatulathenrepeatthisstepevery30secondsuntilthechocolateiscompletelymelted.

3. Add the chopped chocolate to themelted chocolate and stir with a spatula until it’smelted.Thechocolateisnowtempered.

4.Spreadout the chocolate in a thin layeron awork surface, andwait until it starts tocrystallize.

5.Makethechocolateshavingsusingascraperoraknife.

6.Storethechocolateshavingsinacoolplace(about17°C).

Doublechocolateandraspberrysponge

FRAMBOISIERAUXDEUXCHOCOLATS

Atraditionalframboisierismadewith2layersofplainspongeandavanillacreamcomposedofhalfbuttercreamandhalfcrèmepâtissière.I’veadaptedthisclassicrecipeto

makeanallchocolateandraspberrydessert.Serves12/Preparationtime:20+40minutes/Bakingtime:10–12minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4/Settingtimeinthefridge:8hours/Youwillneeda24×4.5cmhexagonalora20cmroundcaketin

INGREDIENTS

Forthechocolatesponge


170gbutter


170gcastersugar

70gplainflour

7gbakingpowder

80ggroundalmonds

1pinchofsalt

Forthewhitechocolatemousse


120gwhitechocolate






30gbutter



Forthegarnish

4punnetsoflargeraspberries

Forthechocolateshavings(optional)

40gdarkchocolate,melted

20gdarkchocolate,chopped

1.For the chocolate sponge,melt the chocolate and the butter in themicrowave for 30secondsatamediumpower.Stirwithaspatulaandrepeatthisstep3or4timesuntilbotharemelted.Cool for 10minutes then add the egg yolks one at a time, followedby thesiftedcastersugar,flour,bakingpowderandgroundalmonds.Whisktheeggwhiteswithapinch of salt to peak (see page 38). Incorporate a third with the chocolate mix, thenincorporatetheremainingtwo-thirds.Spreaditoutto1cmthickoveratraylinedwithasilicone mat or baking paper. The sponge must be large enough to cut 2 hexagons of24cm.Bakefor7minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4,turnthetrayandbakeforanother3–5minutes.Prickthespongewithaknife;ifthebladecomesoutcleanit’scooked.Coolonthemat.

2. Turn the sponge over onto thework surface and gently peel off the siliconemat orbaking paper. Place the cake tin over it and cut 2 hexagons using a sharp knife on theoutsideofthetin.

3.Putthetinonaservingtrayandplaceahexagonofthechocolatespongeinthebase.Garnishthecakewithlargeraspberries.

4.Tomakethewhitechocolatemousse,followthemethodonpage82andpouritovertheraspberries.Putthesecondhexagononthetopandpressgentlywiththefingertips.Setinthefridgefor8hours.

5.Makethechocolateshavingsfollowingthemethodonpage204,ifusing.

6. To make the chocolate ganache, melt the chocolate and butter in the microwavefollowingthemethodinstep1.Thenaddthecoldmilkandthecreamin3or4batches.Thiswillcoolthetemperatureoftheganache.Putbackinthemicrowaveforanextra20secondstowarmitupandbringitbackto40°C(itmustfeelwarmbutnothot),whichisagood temperature touseaganache.Pour itover thecakeandspread itoutwitha largepalletknife.Setinthefridge.

7.Halfanhourbeforeserving,blowtorchall thewayaroundthehexagonframetomelttheedgesof thecreamand remove itby lifting itupwithakitchencloth.Decorate thecakewithwhitechocolatemousse,raspberriesandchocolateshavings.

GOODTOKNOW

Thechocolatespongecanbebakedinacaketin,thensplitinhalfandgarnishedwiththesetwhitechocolatemousseandfreshraspberries.Doubletheingredientsforthechocolateganache,andcoverthecakeentirely.

Chestnutandpearcharlotte

CHARLOTTEÀLACHÂTAIGNEETAUXPOIRES

Charlottesarelightandmeltinthemouth.Thespongebiscuitscanbesoakedquicklyinthepearpoachingliquor,flavouredwithalittledarkrumifthedessertisintendedfor

adults.Serves8/Preparationtime:20+30minutesBakingtime:8–10minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3/Settingtimeinthefridge:6hoursYouwillneedan18cmhigh-sidedroundcaketinandanon-stick

bakingtray

INGREDIENTS

40spongefingers(seepage248)

butter,forgreasing

Forthepoachedpears

3ripeWilliamspears

500mlwater

150gcastersugar


Forthechestnutmousse


400gchestnutspread


Forthechocolateshavings(optional)



1.Makethepoachedpearsfollowingthemethodonpage68.

2.Makethespongefingersfollowingthemethodonpage248.Coolonthetray.

3.Greasethemouldwithbutterandlinewithbakingpaper.

4.Forthechestnutmousse,soakthegelatineleavesincoldwaterfor10minutes.Putthechestnutcreaminalargebowl.Bring50mlofcreamtotheboiland,offtheheat,addthesqueezedgelatineleaves.Pourthehotcreamontopofthechestnutspreadandstirwithaspatula.Whisktheremaining300mlofcreamtoasoftandrunnywhippedcreamandfolditintothechestnutspread.Thechestnutmoussemustbesoftandrunny.Dice4poached

pearhalvesandincorporatethemtothemousse.

5.Linethebottomandthesideofthemouldwithspongefingers,placingtheicingsugarsidesincontactwiththebakingpaper.

6.Pourinathirdofthechestnutmousseandcoveritwithalayerofspongefingers.Thenaddanotherthirdofmousseandalayerofspongefingers.Finally,pourintheremainingmousseandafinallayerofspongefingers.Setinthefridgeforaminimumof6hours.

7.Turn themouldupsidedownona serving tray andhelp the charlotte to slideoutbypullinggentlyonthebakingpaper.

8.Decorate thecharlottewith slicedpoachedpearsandchocolate shavings (seemethodpage204).

Howtomakeahazelnutdacquoise

1.Sifttogethertheicingsugar,groundhazelnutsandplainflour.

2.MakeaFrenchmeringuewiththeeggwhitesandthecastersugar.Whisktheeggwhitesatmedium speed.When they start to rise, gradually add the caster sugar andbeat untilfirm.

3. Pour in the sifted icing sugar, ground hazelnuts and plain flour on the top of themeringueinonego.

4. Gently combine the dry ingredients with the meringue using a spatula, withoutoverworkingit.Makeacircularmovementwiththespatulainonehand,startingfromthebottom upwards, and give the bowl a quarter turn with the other hand. Repeat thesemovementsuntilthedacquoisemixiscombined.Becarefulnottooverworkthedacquoiseotherwiseitwillcollapse.

5.Fillapipingbagfittedwithalargenozzle.

6.Draw3circlesof20cmonbakingpaperandplacethemon2or3bakingtrays.Stickthebakingpapertothetraywithalittlebitofdacquoisemix.

7.Pipethedacquoise,startingfromthemiddleofthecircle,toformasnailshapeuptotheedge.Repeatthisstepwiththe2othercircles.

8.Sprinklethe3dacquoiseswithchoppedblanchedhazelnutsandicingsugar.

9.Bakestraightawayfor14minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3,thenturnthetrayandbakeforanother2–4minutesuntilevenlybeige.Leavetocooldownonthetray.

Hazelnutlayercake

DACQUOISEÀLANOISETTE

Originatingfromthesouth-westofFrance,thiscakeisnamedaftertheinhabitantsofthetownofDax.Usuallymadewithgroundalmonds,itcanalsobepreparedwithgroundhazelnuts,groundpistachiosordesiccatedcoconutandfilledwithdifferentkindsof

mousse.Irecommendmakingthiscakeadayinadvance;itwillbemoisterandtasteevenbetterthefollowingday.

Serves8/Preparationtime:1hour/Bakingtime:16–18minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3Youwillneed2or3bakingtrays(topipethe3×20cmsponge)

INGREDIENTS

Forthehomemadepralinepaste

150gblanchedalmonds

150gblanchedhazelnuts

85gcastersugar

50mlwater

Forthehazelnutdacquoisesponge

175ggroundhazelnuts

175gicingsugar

40gplainflour

7eggwhites(280g)

110gcastersugar

30gblanchedhazelnuts,chopped

30gicingsugar,fordusting

Forthepralinemousse


3eggwhites(120g)

230gcastersugar

75mlwater

120ghomemadeorreadymadepralinepaste(50%almonds,50%hazelnuts)

1.Makethehomemadepralinepastefollowingthemethodonpage194.

2.Makethehazelnutdacquoisefollowingthemethodonpage210.

3.Forthepralinemousse,soakthegelatineleavesincoldwaterfor10minutes.MakeanItalianmeringue following themethod on page 38 and, off the heat, add the squeezedgelatineleavestothesyrup.

4.Inalargebowl,whiskthepralinepasteandaddaquarteroftheItalianmeringuewithawhisktosoften thepralinepaste. Incorporate therestof themeringueinonegousingaspatula,makingacircularmovementfromthebottomupwardswithaspatulainonehand,and giving the bowl a quarter turn with the other. Repeat these movements until thepralinemousseisevenlycombined.Fillapipingbagfittedwithamedium-sizenozzle.

5.Peeloffthebakingpaperfromthe3spongesandbuildupthedacquoise.Place1layerofspongeinthemiddleofaservingdish.Pipeoveralayerofpralinemousseandcoveritwithasecond layerofsponge.Pipeasecond layerofmousseandput the final layerofdacquoisespongeontop.

6.Keepinthefridgeanddustwithicingsugarbeforeserving.

Chocolateandorangecake

REINEDESABAÀL’ORANGE

Richandmoist,thisisadeliciousandsimplecakeforallthefamily.Youcanalsotryitwithoutorange,orswaptheplainflourforpotatoflourtogetwhatwillprobablybethe

bestgluten-freecakeyou’veevertasted.Serves10/Preparationtime:20minutes/Bakingtime:45–60minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3/You

willneeda20–24cmroundcaketin

INGREDIENTS


250gbutter


250gcastersugar

100gplainflour

10gbakingpowder

120ggroundalmonds

1mediumorange(finelygratedzestandjuice)

1pinchofsalt

1. Grease themouldwith butter and flour. Turn it over and knock it against the worksurfacetoremovetheexcessflour.

2.Putthechocolateandthebutterinabowl.Melttheminthemicrowave,atamediumpowerfor1minute,thencheckandstirwithaspatula.Repeatthisstepevery30secondsuntilbotharemelted.Ormeltthemslowlyinabain-marie(seepage24).Leavetocoolto35–40°Cfor10–15minutes.

3.Stirintheeggyolksonebyoneusingawhisk.Addthecastersugar,plainflour,bakingpowderandgroundalmondsinonego,thenaddthezestandthejuiceoftheorange.

4.Whiskthe6eggwhiteswithapinchofsalttopeak(seepage38).Incorporateathirdinto the chocolatemix to lighten it, followed by the last two-thirds, making a circularmovementfromthebottomupwardswithaspatulainonehand,andgivingaquarterturntothebowlwiththeother.Repeatthisstepuntilthemixiscombinedwithoutoverworkingit.

5. Fill the cake tin andbake the cake straight away.Prick the cakewith the blade of aknife;ifitcomesoutcleanit’scooked.Coolonawirerack.

BlackForestgateau

FORÊT-NOIRE

OriginallyfromGermany,theBlackForestgateauisalsoverypopularinAlsaceatthefrontierbetweenFranceandGermany,andeverywhereinFrance.Begenerouswiththe

griottines;theygivethecakeitsuniqueflavour.Serves12/Preparationtime:20+40minutes/Bakingtime:30–40minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3/

Restingtimeinfridge:15+20minutesYouwillneeda20–22cmroundcaketin

INGREDIENTS

Forthechocolategénoise

150gplainflour

30gcocoapowder

6mediumeggs

185gcastersugar

Forthechocolateshavings



Forthekirschgarnish

600gChantillycream(2×recipeonpage34)

200ggriottines(morellocherriespreservedinkirsch)



30gbutter



1. Sift the plain flour with the cocoa powder and make the chocolate génoise spongefollowingthemethodonpage24.Bakeandcoolfor1houronawirerack.

2.Makethechocolateshavings(page204).

3.Drainthekirschcherriesandplacethemonkitchenpaper todry.Setasidethekirschliqueurtosoakthechocolategénoise.Cutthecherriesinhalf.

4.MaketheChantillycreamfollowingthemethodonpage34andkeepit in thefridge.Turnthechocolategénoiseupsidedownandsplititsidewaysinto3equalparts.

5.Soaktheinsideofthebottompartwithkirschliqueurusingapastrybrush.Spreadovera layerofChantillycream(1cmthick),divide thecherryhalvesandpush theminto thecream.

6.Putthemiddlesectionofthecakebackontopofthecream,andrepeatstep5.

7. Soak the inside of the top part of the génoise and place it on top of the cake. Pressgentlyonitwiththepalmofyourhandtolevelitout.RemovetheexcessChantillycreamaroundthesideofthecakeusingaspatulaandplaceitinthefridgefor15minutes.

8.For thechocolateganache,melt thechocolateand thebutter in themicrowavefor30seconds,atamediumpower.Stirwithaspatulaandrepeatthisstep3or4timesuntilbotharemelted.Ormeltthemoverabain-marie(seepage24).Thenaddthecoldmilkandthecream in 3 or 4 batches. This will cool the temperature of the ganache. Return to themicrowaveforanother20secondstowarmitupandbringitbackto40°C(itmustfeelwarmbutnothot).

9.Spreadouttheganacheonthetopofthecakeandlevelitoutusingalongspatulaorknife.Removeroughlytheexcessofganachefromthesideofthecake.Setinthefridgefor20minutes.

10.Spreadouta thin layerofChantillycreamall around thecake, anddecorate itwithchocolateshavings.UsetheleftoverChantillycream,chocolateshavingsandgriottinestodecorate the topof theBlackForest gateau.Keep it in the fridge and remove it 1hourbeforeserving.

CHAPTER9

Sweettreats

GOURMANDISES

Darkchocolateandlemonmadeleines

MADELEINESAUCITRONETAUCHOCOLATNOIR

Thisrecipeismygrown-upversionoftheclassicmadeleines.Youcanalsotrythemplainwith1teaspoonofvanillaextractinsteadofthelemonzest.Childrenlovethem.

Serves8(24madeleines)/Preparationtime:15minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:4hours(orovernight)/Bakingtime:8–10minutesat190°C/375°F/GasMark5Youwillneedasiliconemouldfor9

or12madeleines

INGREDIENTS

250gmeltedbutter,warm

250gplainflour

1pinchofsalt

8gbakingpowder

5mediumeggs

250gcastersugarthinlygratedzestof1lemon


1.Slowlymeltthebutterinapanorinthemicrowave.

2.Sifttogethertheplainflour,saltandbakingpowder.

3.Inalargebowl,whisktheeggs,castersugarandlemonzestfor1minute.Addthesiftedpowdersallatthesametimeandmixuntilithasanevenconsistency.Finally,incorporateslowlythewarmmeltedbutterintothemix.

4.Coverthemadeleinemixwithclingfilmincontactandrestinthefridgeforaminimumof4hours,orovernightifpossible.Itwillhelpthemadeleinestoriseduringbaking.

5.Grease themadeleinesmouldswith soft butter, and fill them two-thirds full using atablespoonorapipingbag.

6.Bakestraightawayuntilgoldenbrownand turn themoutwhile stillwarm.Put thembackinthemouldontheirsidestocool.

7.Melt thedarkchocolate in themicrowaveatmediumpowerfor1minute, thencheckand stirwith a spatula.Repeat this step every30 secondsuntil the chocolate ismelted.Alternatively, melt it slowly in a bain-marie (see page 24). Dip the bottom of themadeleinesintothechocolateandplacetheminthefridgefor10minutestoallowthemtocrystallize.Enjoythemadeleinesatroomtemperature.

Apricotfinanciers

FINANCIERSÀL’ABRICOT

FinanciersaresmallindividualrectanglarcakesgenerallyeateninFranceattheendofamealwithcoffee.Theyareusuallymadewithgroundalmonds,andcanalsobeflavouredwithgriottines(morellocherriespreservedinkirsch),lemonzestandblueberries,rhubarborchocolate.Groundhazelnutsoramixofgroundalmondsandgroundpistachioscanbe

usedinsteadofthegroundalmonds.Serves12/Preparationtime:25minutes/Restingtime:1hourinthefridgeBakingtime:15minutesat

160°C/325°F/GasMark3Youwillneedasiliconemouldfor20smallfinanciers(2×4cm)

INGREDIENTS

170gbutter

250gicingsugar

135ggroundalmonds

55gplainflour

5eggwhites(200g)

Forthegarnish

50galmondbatons

8freshapricots,diced

1.Inapan,atalowheat,meltthebutterandcontinuecookingforafewminutesuntilitbecomeslightbrown(beurrenoisette).Leaveitcoolfor20minutes.

2.Sift the icingsugar,groundalmondsandflour inabowl.Addthecoldmeltedbrownbutterand1eggwhite,andstirwithawhisk.Thenaddtherestoftheeggwhitestwoatatime.

3.Fillapipingbagandrestthemixtureinthefridgefor1hourbeforebaking.

4.Brushthesiliconemouldswithsoftbutterandfillthem(two-thirdsfull).Garnisheachfinancierwith3piecesofdicedapricotandafewalmondbatons.Bakeuntilgoldenbutnottoodarkotherwisetheywillbetoodryandcoolinthemoulds.

5.Repeatstep4a fewtimes to finishoff themix.Thefinanciermixcanbekept in thefridgefor3days.

Cannelés

CANNELÉSBORDELAIS

OriginatinginBordeaux,theselittlecakescanbeservedasadessertorattheendofamealwithcoffee.Thecondensedmilkisnotatraditionalingredientbutmoreamodern

evolutionofthisrecipe.Ipersonallyfindtheytastebetterthisway.Serves6/Preparationtime:30minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:24hoursBakingtime:25–30

minutesat170°C/325°F/GasMark3Youwillneed12smallcoppermouldsorasiliconemouldfor12smallcannelés

INGREDIENTS

225mlfullfatmilk

2vanillapods(openedandscraped)

1mediumegg

1eggyolk

150gcastersugar

100mlcondensedmilk

80gplainflour

25gdarkrum

25ghotmeltedbutter

50gsoftbutter,forgreasing

1.Bringthefullfatmilkwiththevanillapodstotheboilandleavetocooldownatroomtemperature.

2.Inalargebowl,whisktogethertheegg,yolkandcastersugar,thenaddthecondensedmilkfollowedbytheflourandthedarkrum.

3.Addthecoldmilkandvanillamix,andfinallythehotmeltedbutter.Passthecannelésmixthroughaveryfinesieveandstoreinthefridgefor24hours.

4. The following day, grease the copper or silicone moulds with butter using a pastrybrush.

5.Whiskthecannelésmixfor1minutebeforeuse.Fillthemouldsusingajugorapipingbag, leavinga0.5cmgapat the topof themoulds,andstartbakingat170°C/325°F/GasMark3for10minutes.Thecannelés tend toriseabove theirmoulds.After10minutes,remove the tray from the oven and prick the cannelés with a knife tip to make themcollapseinsidetheirmoulds.Continuebakingforanother15–20minutes.Theyarecookedwhendarkandcaramelizedon theoutside.Cool themoutof theirmouldsona cooling

rack.Repeatstep4and5withanyremainingmix.

GOODTOKNOW

Copper moulds provide a better-looking and crispier result. Before their first use, thecoppermouldsshouldbebrushedinandoutwithbutter,putintheovenfor20minutesat250°C/480°F/GasMark9,thencleanedwhiletheyarestillhot.Theyshouldthenneverbewashedagain,onlyflashedintheovenfor5minutesandwipedcleanwithakitchencloth.Siliconemouldsworkjustfine,however,andyoucangetasimilarresultbyflashingthecannelésinahotovenfor4minutesoutoftheirmoulds.

Howtomakemacaroons

Thereare2methodsformakingmacaroons:withaFrenchmeringue,whichisthetraditionalone,orwithanItalianmeringue,whichisthemodernwayusedbymostpastry

chefsandbakers.Theyarelessfragileandmorepracticaltouse.IwastaughtthetraditionalwaywhenIwas18,andeversinceI’vebeenusingaFrenchmeringueinallmymacaroonmixes.Themacaroonshellsaresoftandchewyandcanbefilledandeatenrightaway,whilemacaroonshellsmadewithanItalianmeringuearehard,andneedtobefilled

andplacedinthefridgefor24–48hourstomoisten.

1.Blitztogethertheicingsugarandthegroundalmonds/hazelnutsinafoodprocessorforafewsecondsthenpassthemixthroughasieve.

2.Usinganelectricmixeratmediumspeed,whisktheeggwhites,castersugarandfoodcolouring(accordingtotherecipe)untilastiffpeakforms(seepage38).

3.Pourtheeggwhitesoverthesiftedpowdersandstartmixinggentlywithaspatula.

4. Combine the powders with the egg whites until you get a thick, slightly shiny andalmost runnypaste. It’s important tostopworking themixwhen it starts toshineat therisk of overworking it. When you stop working the mix, it must flatten out almostcompletelyonitsowninthebowl,within30seconds.Ifit’sveryrunnyandflattensoutrightaway,theeggwhitesareoverworked.Andifitdoesn’tflattenoutalmostcompletelyafter30secondsit’sunderworked.

5.Fillapipingbagfittedwithamedium-sizenozzle.

6. On a tray linedwith baking paper, pipe themacaroons in staggered rows. Stick thepapertothetraywithalittlebitofmacaroonmixorputasmallmouldineachcornerofthetraytostopthefanfromblowingitaway.

7.Restthemacaroonsfor1houratroomtemperature,untiltheirtopsstarttodryandformacrust,beforebaking.

8.Bakethemacaroonsonthe topshelfof theoven(toprotect themfromthefan)for7minutesat150°/300°F/GasMark2, thenturnthetrayandbakeforanother3–4minutesaccordingtothesizeofyourmacaroons.Coolonthetray.

9.Fillthemacaroons:pick2macaroonsofthesamesize,placealittlebitofcreaminsideone of them, put the second one on top of it and press gently. Place in the fridge andremove10–20minutesbeforeserving.

GOODTOKNOW

1.Youcanjudgethequalityofyourmacaroonmixwhenitispipedontothebakingtray:if it doesn’t flatten out evenly, it is underworked; if it spreads out excessively, it’soverworked.

2.Theperfectmacaroonmustbechewyinside:iftheyaredrytheyhavebeenovercooked.If some humidity stains appear on their tops while cooling, they are undercooked andrequireanextra2minutesintheoven.

3.Themacaroonshellscanbefrozenwithoutfilling.

4.Drymacaroonscanbe‘saved’byfillingthemwiththecreamandkeepingtheminthefridgefor24hours.Theywillabsorbthehumidityofthecreamandbecomechewy.

Raspberrymacaroons

MACARONSÀLAFRAMBOISE

Ialwaystrynottouseanyfoodcolouringinpâtisserie.However,macaroonsaretheonlyexception.Thecolourofthemacaroonshellismeanttorepresentitsflavour.Forexample,

adeep-pinkcolourisusedtorepresentafreshraspberrymacaroon.Makesapproximately35/Preparationtime:20+10minutesRestingtimeatroomtemperature:1hour/Bakingtime:9–11minutesat150°C/300F/GasMark2Youwillneedabakingtraycoveredwithbaking

paper(30×40cm)

INGREDIENTS

125ggroundalmonds

225gicingsugar

3eggwhites(120g)

20gcastersugar

redfoodcolouring

Fortheraspberrycream


30gcastersugar

60gfreshraspberries

1.Makethemacaroonsfollowingthemethodonpage226.

2.Fortheraspberrycream,whiskthecreamwiththecastersugaruntilitstartstothicken,thenaddthefreshraspberriesandkeepwhiskinguntilthemixtureisstiff.Theraspberrycream tends to loosenup in the fridge after a fewhours andmightneed tobewhiskedagain.

3.Fillapipingbagfittedwithamedium-sizenozzlewiththeraspberrycreamandfillthemacaroons. Keep in the fridge and allow 10minutes at room temperature to warm upbeforeserving.

Lemonmacaroons

MACARONSAUCITRON

Allkindsofextravagantflavoursofmacaroonscannowbefoundinpâtisserieshops.Butsometimesaclassicandsimpleflavourlikelemontogetherwithacrispyalmondshellis

justright.Makesapproximately35/Preparationtime:20+10minutesRestingtimeatroomtemperature:1hour/Bakingtime:9–11minutesat150°C/300F/GasMark2Youwillneedabakingtraycoveredwithbaking

paper(30×40cm)

INGREDIENTS

Forthemacaroons

125ggroundalmonds

225gicingsugar

3eggwhites(120g)

20gcastersugaryellowfoodcolouring

Forthelemoncream


50gcastersugar

1gratedlemonzest

60mllemonjuice


2.Forthelemoncream,whiskthecreamwiththecastersugarandlemonzestuntilitstartstothicken,thenaddthelemonjuiceandkeepwhiskinguntilit’sstiff.

3.Fill apipingbag fittedwith amedium-sizenozzlewith the lemoncreamand fill themacaroons. Store in the fridge and allow 10minutes at room temperature to warm upbeforeserving.

GOODTOKNOW

Theclassicmacaroonsaremadeofgroundalmondsandfoodcolouring.Theflavourofthefilling(cream,ganacheorjam)andthecolouroftheshellswilldeterminetheflavourofthemacaroons.

Hazelnutandmilkchocolatemacaroons

MACARONSÀLANOISETTEETAUCHOCOLATAULAIT

Macaroonshellsmadewithgroundhazelnutsinsteadofgroundalmondsaresomethingalittlebitmoreunusual.It’sacompletelydifferenttastethatIrecommendyoutotry.Makesapproximately35/Preparationtime:20+10minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:2hours/

Restingtimeatroomtemperature:1hour/Bakingtime:9–11minutesat150°C/300F/GasMark2/Youwillneedabakingtraycoveredwithbakingpaper(30×40cm)

INGREDIENTS

Forthemilkchocolatemousse

100gmilkchocolate,chopped


250mlfreshdoublecream,softlywhipped

Forthehazelnutmacaroons

125ggroundhazelnuts

225gicingsugar

3eggwhites(120g)

20gcastersugar

1.Forthemilkchocolatemousse,placethechoppedchocolateinalargebowl.Bringthecreamtotheboilandpouritoverthechocolate,stirringwithaspatulauntilitmelts.Coolatroomtemperaturefor10minutes,thenfoldinthewhippedcream.Setinthefridgeforaminimumof2hours(seethewhitechocolateandvanillamoussemethodonpage82).


3.Fillapipingbagfittedwithamedium-sizenozzlewiththemilkchocolatemousseandfillthemacaroons.Storeinthefridgeandallow10minutesatroomtemperaturetowarmupbeforeserving.

GOODTOKNOW

The macaroons can be made with various kinds of nut powders (almond, hazelnut,pistachio,peanut,pecan).Thetextureandthelookofthemacaroonsmaychangealittleaccordingtothefatcontentineachnutpowder.

Flakedalmondtuiles

TUILESAUXAMANDESEFFILÉES

Deliciousandcrispy,theseflakedalmondstuilescanbeservedwithachocolatemousse(page62),vanillaicecream(page26)orcrèmebrûlée(page180).Theyarealsoperfect

withanicecupofteaorcoffee.Serves8(25tuiles)/Preparationtime:15minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:4hoursBakingtime:12–15minutesat150°C/300°F/GasMark2/Youwillneed2bakingtrayscoveredwithasiliconemator2

non-stickbakingtrays(30×40cm)

INGREDIENTS

25gsoftbutter

125gcastersugar

40gplainflour

50mlfreshorangejuice,sieved

65gflakedalmonds

1.Usinganelectricmixerfittedwithapaddle,mixthebutter,castersugarandflouruntilithasanevenconsistency.Thenslowlyincorporatethefreshorangejuice.

2.Byhandwithaspatula,stirintheflakedalmondsandthenrestthemixtureinthefridgeforaminimumof4hoursbeforeuse.

3.Onanon-stickbakingtrayoratraylinedwithasiliconemat,place12teaspoonfulsofmixinstaggeredrows,separatedby15cm.Flattenthemoutwithyourfingertipsandformthemintoaroundshape.Bakeonahighshelfintheoven(abovethefan)for10minutes,thenturnthetrayandcontinuecookingforanother3–5minutesuntilgoldenbrown.

4.Cool the tuileson the tray for2minutes then lift themupwith aplastic scraper andshapethemaroundarollingpin.Storeinanairtightcontainer.

5.Repeatsteps3and4untilallthemixturehasbeenused.

Darkchocolateflorentines

FLORENTINSAUCHOCOLATNOIR

OriginallyfromBrittanyinnorthernFrance,thesebiscuitscanalsobecoatedwithmilkorwhitechocolate.Irecommendyouenjoythemwithastrongcoffeeattheendofamealor

asanafternoontreat.Serves8/Preparationtime:15+15minutesBakingtime:14–16minutesat150°C/300°F/GasMark2You

willneed2bakingtrayscoveredwithasiliconemator2non-stickbakingtrays(30×40cm)

INGREDIENTS

100gcastersugar

50gplainflour


25grunnyhoney

15gbutter

125gflakedalmonds

60gorangepeel

60glemonpeel

Forthechocolateicing


10gbutter

1.Mixtheplainflourwiththecastersugarandpassthoughaveryfinesieve.

2.Putthecream,honeyandbutterinapanandbringitslowlytotheboil.Offtheheat,incorporatethesiftedflourandcastersugarallinonego,stirwithawhiskandbringthemixbacktotheboil.Removethepanfromtheheatanduseaspatulatoincorporatetheflakedalmonds,orangeandlemonpeel.

3.On2trayslinedwithasiliconemator2non-stickbakingtrays,placesmallquantitiesofmixinstaggeredrowsusingateaspoon(metalringscanbeusedtocontroltheshapeofthe florentines while baking). Flatten them out using your fingertips and bake for 10minutes,thenturnthetrayandcontinuebakingfor4–6extraminutesuntilgoldenbrown.Coolonthetray(themetalringsmustberemovedwhiletheyarestillwarm,withaknifetip).

4. Tomake the chocolate icing, put the chocolate and butter in a bowl andmelt in themicrowaveatamediumpower for1minute, thencheckandstirwitha spatula.Repeatthisstepevery30secondsuntilbotharemelted.Alternatively,meltthemslowlyinabain-

marie(seepage24).

5. Turn the florentines upside down and spread over a teaspoon of chocolate icing.Decoratethemusingaforkoradecoratingcombandleavethechocolatetosetatroomtemperature.

6.Thedarkchocolateflorentineswillkeepforafewdaysinanairtightcontainer.

Bretonsbiscuits

GALETTESBRETONNES

Lightandcrispy,thesearegreatservedwithacrèmecaramel(page182)orbavarois(page186).SaltedbutteristraditionallyusedinBrittany,but130gofunsaltedbutterand2gof

saltcanbeusedinstead.Makesapproximately25/Preparationtime:10minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:2hoursBakingtime:10–11minutesat170°C/325°F/GasMark3Youwillneed2bakingtrayscoveredwithasilicone

mator2non-stickbakingtrays(30×40cm)

INGREDIENTS

130gsoftsaltedbutter

135gcastersugar

230gplainflour

7gbakingpowder

1mediumegg

1.Creamthebutterwiththecastersugarusinganelectricmixerfittedwithapaddle,orinalargebowlwithaspatula.

2.Addtheplainflourandbakingpowder,andworkthemixuntilithasasandytexture.Incorporatetheegg.

3.Roll thebiscuitmixtureintoasausageshape4cmindiameter,wrapinclingfilmandplaceinthefridgefor2hours.

4.Cutthebiscuitmixinto1cmwideslices.Putthemon2non-stickbakingtraysor2trayscoveredwithasiliconemat instaggeredrows,5cmapart.Bakefor8minutes, thenturnthetrays,andcontinuebakingforanother2–3minutesuntilgolden.Coolonthetrays.

Nini’ssablésbiscuits

SABLÉSDENINI

MysisterStéphanie,orNini,usedtomakethesebiscuitsallthetimewhenwewereteenagers.Denseandcrumbly,thesesabléscouldbecomparedtoshortbread.Theyare

idealforlunchboxes.Makesapproximately25/Preparationtime:10minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:2hoursBakingtime:14–16minutesat170°C/325°F/GasMark3Youwillneed2bakingtrayscoveredwithasilicone

mator2non-stickbakingtrays(30×40cm)

INGREDIENTS

250gplainflour

125gcastersugar

1pinchsalt

125gsoftbutter

1mediumegg

100gdemerarasugar

1.Work the flour, caster sugar, salt and butter into a sandy texture by hand or use anelectricmixerfittedwithapaddle.Incorporatetheegg.

2.Rollthebiscuitmixintoasausageshape,5cmindiameter.Sprinklethedemerarasugarontheworksurfaceandrollthebiscuitmixacrossit.Wrapinclingfilmandplaceinthefridgefor2hours.

3.Cutthebiscuitmixinto1cmthickslices.Putthemonthenonstickbakingtrays(or2baking trays covered with a silicone mat) in staggered rows, 5cm apart. Bake for 12minutesthenturnthetrayandcontinuebakingforanother2–4minutesuntilgolden.Coolonthetray.

Fingerbiscuits

LANGUES-DE-CHAT

Ican’tresistgivingyoutheliteraltranslationofLangues-de-chat:it’s‘cat’stongue’.IwillleaveyoutoimaginethesillygamesplayedbychildreninFrance.Thesefingerbiscuits

workwellservedwithacrèmebrûlée(page180),vanillaicecream(page26)orfreshfruitsalad.

Makesapproximately30/Preparationtime:15minutesBakingtime:5–6minutesat200°C/400°F/GasMark6Youwillneed2bakingtrayscoveredwithasiliconemat(30×40cm)

INGREDIENTS

60gsoftbutter

40gcastersugar

70gplainflour

1mediumegg

1teaspoonvanillaextract

1.Inabowl,mixthesoftbutterwiththecastersugarusingaspatula.Addtheflour,thenthe egg, vanilla extract and combine. This can also be done in a food processor or anelectricmixerfittedwithapaddle.

2.Fillapipingbagfittedwithasmallnozzle(oruseateaspoon).

3. On 2 trays lined with a silicone mat, pipe the finger biscuits in 6cm-long lines, instaggeredrows,with3cmgapsinbetween.

4.Bakefor4minutesandthenturnthetraysandbakeforanextraminuteor2.Coolonthetrays.

Rolledbiscuits

CIGARETTESRUSSES

Lightandcrispy,rolledbiscuitsareidealservedwithadarkchocolateandorangemousse(page184)orvanillaicecream(page26).

Makesapproximately40/Preparationtime:15minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:1hourBakingtime:5–6minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3/Youwillneed2bakingtrayscoveredwithasiliconemator2

non-stickbakingtrays(30×40cm)

INGREDIENTS

100gbutter

100gicingsugar

75gplainflour

3eggwhites(120g)

1.Putthebutterandicingsugarinafoodprocessorandmixuntilwellcombined.

2.Add all of the flour and process for 1minute. Scrape the inside of the bowlwith aspatula.

3.Finally,incorporatetheeggwhitesoneatatime,withoutoverworkingthemix.Restinthefridgefor1hour.

4. On 2 non-stick baking trays or trays lined with a silicone mat, spread about 12teaspoonfulsofthemixture,usingthebackoftheteaspoontoshape.Trytobeasroundandregularaspossible.

5.One trayata time,bake thebiscuits for4minutes then turn the tray in theovenandbakeforanother1or2minutes.Therolledbiscuitsmustbegoldenbrownontheedgesandstillalittlepaleinthemiddle.

6.Peelonebiscuitoffthetrayusingaplasticscraper.Turnitoveronthetrayandrollthecigarettestartingatoneend.Pressonthecigarettelightlytosealthejoint.

7.Repeatstep6foreachcigarette.Astheystarttocool,putthetraybackintheovenfor1minutetowarmupthebiscuitsandfinishrollingthem.

GOODTOKNOW

Thebiscuitscanalsoberolledaroundathinwoodenstickfollowingthesamemethod.

Frenchmeringues

MERINGUESFRANÇAISES

Crispyandmelt-in-the-mouth,FrenchmeringuescanbeservedasadessertwithfreshstrawberriesandChantillycream(page34)orcanbeenjoyedontheirown.

Serves12/Preparationtime:15minutesBakingtime:30–40minutesat110°C/225°F/GasMark¼Youwillneed2bakingtrayscoveredwithasiliconematorbakingpaper(30×40cm)

INGREDIENTS

4eggwhites(150g)

140gcastersugar

140gicingsugar

30gflakedalmonds(optional)

20gicingsugar,todust(optional)

1.Whisktheeggwhiteswiththecastersugartofirmpeaks(seepage38)usinganelectricmixeratmediumspeed.Itwilltakeabout10minutes.

2. Sift the icing sugar and use a spatula to incorporate it in one additionwith the eggwhites,withoutoverworkingit.

3.FillapipingbagfittedwithalargeflutednozzleandpipetheFrenchmeringuesonto2trayslinedwithbakingpaperorsiliconemat.

4.Sprinklethemeringueswithflakedalmondsandicingsugar,ifusing.

5.Bakeslowlyfor30–40minutesaccordingtotheirsize.Leavethemtocooldownanddryinsidetheswitched-offovenfor4hours.

GOODTOKNOW

Thesamerecipecanbeusedtomakechewypavlovas.Thebakingtimewillbe25minutesforindividualpavlovasand40minutesat120°C/250°F/GasMark½foralargeone.

Spongefingers

BISCUITSÀLACUILLÈRE

Spongefingersareusedinthemakingofcharlottes(page208)andtiramisu,sometimessoakedinasyrup.Verylightandbutterfree,theyarealsodeliciousontheirownandmake

asuccessfulsnackforthelunchbox.Makes40/Preparationtime:20minutesBakingtime:8–10minutesat160°C/325°F/GasMark3Youwill

need2bakingtrayscoveredwithasiliconemat(30×40cm)

INGREDIENTS

3eggs,separated(120g)

70gcastersugar

75gplainflour,sifted

50gicingsugar,todust

1.Whisk the egg whites with the caster sugar to a stiff meringue (page 38) using anelectricmixeratmediumspeed.

2.Reduce the speedof themixer to lowand incorporate theeggyolks to themeringuewithout overworking the mix. Then by hand, fold in the flour in 3 additions, using aspatula.

3.Fillapipingbagfittedwithalargenozzle.

4.On2trayslinedwithasiliconemat,pipethespongefingersin5cmlines,instaggeredrows,leaving3cmgapsbetweeneach.

5.Dustthespongefingerswithicingsugarandletthemmeltatroomtemperaturefor15minutes.Dust the sponge fingers a second time before baking until evenly light beige.Coolonatray.Themeltedicingsugarwillformthesugarpearlsyoucanseeontopofthebiscuits.

Heart-shapedbiscuits

PALMIERS

Heart-shapedbiscuitsaremadeofcaramelizedpuffpastry.Thisrecipeisagoodwaytouseupsmallpiecesofunusedpuffpastry.Enjoythepalmiersontheirownorservedwith

floatingislands(page178)orlemonsoufflé(page188).Makesapproximately20/Preparationtime:40+15minutes/Restingtimeinthefridge:2½hours+15minutes/Bakingtime:10–15minutesat170°C/325°F/GasMark3Youwillneed2non-stickbakingtrays

INGREDIENTS

300gpuffpastryorchocolatepuffpastry(seepages12and112)

50gicingsugar

1beatenegg


2.Rolloutthepuffpastrywithsomeicingsugarintoa20×30cmrectangle,5mmthick.Icingsugar isused insteadof flour tostop thepastryfromsticking to theworksurface.Someofitwillbeabsorbedbythepastry,andcaramelizeduringbaking.

3.Removetheexcessicingsugarwithabrushoryourfingertipsandplaceoneoftheshortsidesoftherectangleinfrontofyou.Brush2bands7cmwidewithaverythinlayerofbeaten egg (at the top and at the bottom of the rectangle) and fold them towards themiddle,leavinga2cmgapinthecentre.Brushthebottomsectionwithaverythinlayerofeggand fold itover the top section.Younowhavea20×8cmwidthways rectangle infrontofyou.

4.Cutthe20cmrectangleinto20pieces1cmwideandputthemontheirsideonanon-sticktray,instaggeredrows,10cmapart.Thefoldsarenowappearingandyoucanstarttoseea flatheat-shape form.Place in the fridge for15minutesbeforebaking.Theheart-shapeformwillappearduringthebakingofthesugar-coatedpuffpastry.

5.Bake thebiscuits for10minutes, turn the traysandcontinue tobake foranother2–5minutes,untilthebiscuitsaregoldenbrownbutnottoodark.

Crispcinnamonbiscuits

ARLETTESÀLACANNELLE

Thisrecipewillallowyoutouseupallthepuffpastrytrimmings.Servethecrispcinnamonbiscuitwithcrèmecaramel(page182)ordarkchocolateandorangemousse

(page184).Makesapproximately30/Preparationtime:20minutes/Restingtimeinthefreezer:2hoursRestingtimeinthefridge:30minutes/Bakingtime:10–14minutesat180°C/350°F/GasMark4Youwillneed2

non-stickbakingtrays

INGREDIENTS

200gpuffpastryorpuffpastrytrimmings(seepage12,piledupcarefullyontopofeachother)

20gbutter

50gicingsugar

½teaspoongroundcinnamon

1. Make the puff pastry following the method on page 12. This can be done the daybefore.

2.Meltthebutterinapan.Rolloutthepuffpastryintoarectangle,2mmthick,andbrushitwithbutter.Rollthepastryintoasausageshape,andputitinthefreezerfor2hours.

3.Mixtheicingsugarwiththecinnamonusingaforkandspreaditoutonaplate.

4.Removethepuffpastryfromthefreezerandcutitwithasharpknifeinto3mmslices.

5.Coateachslicewithcinnamonicingsugarandrollthemoutverythinlyinordertogetawaffle-thinpastry,10cmindiameter,usingasmuchcinnamonicingsugarasneeded.

6. Place the crisp cinnamon biscuits between 2 sheets of baking paper, then between 2baking trays to keep them flat, and put them in the fridge for 30minutes. Bake for 8minutesthenturnthetraysandbakeforanother2–4minutesuntiltheyaregoldenbrown.Coolonawirerack.

Acknowledgements

TomysisterIsabelleValette.It’sbeenanincrediblejourney,andaverylongonetoo!Ithasbeen threeyearssince thatextraordinaryevening(with justa littlebit toomuchredwine)onyourOsloterracewhenitallstarted.Isa, thankyouformakingmeunderstandthattheonlylimitsareinourmindsandforbeingthereformeeverystepoftheway.

ToAnnabelleCoelhoandGregBartholomew.ThankyouAnnabelleforyourconstantsupportandencouragementwhenImostneededit!You’reanamazingfriend.Thankyoubothforyourtimeandadvice,andforpatientlygoingoverthemanuscriptinaveryshortperiodoftime.

AspecialthankyoutoMirandaandPontusCarminger,OckendenManor’sownersandmysponsors,forfinancingthephotoshootsandallowingmetousethefacilitiestotesttherecipes,aswellasorganisethephotosessions.Thankyouforbelievinginmeatanearlystageofthebookandmakingtheadventurepossible.AspecialthankstoStephenCrane,OckendenManor’s head chef, for creating inventive schedules that allowedme to bothwriteandworkatthesametime.AreallybigthankstoMarkCharker,thejuniorsous-chef(andmynumberone),AlasdairMulveyandJackAmstrongforcoveringformeinpastry.Thank you Adam Smith, OckendenManor’s manager, for your guidance, support andadvice.ThankyouStuartDolby(assistantrestaurantmanager),WilliamSpalla(restaurantmanager), Vincent Fayat (sous-chef), SueMaxted and Tiffani Thompson for your helpduring the photo shoots. A big thanks to all my colleagues for tasting the recipes andgivingmefeedback.Ilovedsharingthatexperiencewithyouall.

Thank you Lisa Devlin, an amazing and gifted photographer, for your wonderfulpictures and designing skills. Working with you was inspiring on so many levels andreally fun too. The bookwould not have looked the samewithout you. Thanks PoppyBartholomewforyourlegalexpertise.

Ahugethankstomypublishers,NikkiReadandGilesLewisformakingmydreamofwritingacookbook inEnglisha reality! Iwouldalso like to thankeveryoneatHowToBooksandConstable&Robinson:JoStansall,NickiGyopari,IanHughesandeveryonewhoworkedonthisbook.

Tomy family,my supporting team.ThankyouMaman for all the great inspiration,pastry talksand for sendingmesomepiecesofFranceandhomefor thephotosshoots.Thanks Papa for your strategic advice, and my sisters Stéphanie Valette and EmilieValette, for taking so many nice family pictures. Thanks Øyvind Remme and BorisPageaux for the IT support at keymoments and, a specialmerci toØyvind formakinggreat dinners for Isa and me when we needed to hold it together. A big thanks to

AngéliqueSalvagnac,Marie-PauleSalvagnac,GuySalvagnac, Jean-PhilippeSalvagnac,Thibault Chaudières, Eric Chirio and my very young commis chef twins Antoine andClaraChirio,togetherwithPaulChirioforyourhelpduringthephotoshootsinFrance.

Thisbookhasbeenafamilyaffair!I’msogladthatyouareallapartofthisadventure,thereisalittleofeachofyouinit.Detoutcœur,merci.

Index

almondcream(lacrèmed’amande)30

almondcroissants,howtorollup138

Alsatianappletart(tarteAlsacienneauxpommes)52

appleandblackberryturnovers(chaussonsauxpommesetàlamûre)106

appleandcinnamontart(tarteauxpommesetàlacannelle)44

appletartTatin(tarteTatinauxpommes)96

apricotandalmondtart(tarteamandineauxabricots)66

apricotfinanciers(financiersàl’abricot)222

apricotjamrouladecake(biscuitrouléàlaconfitured’abricot)192

Aveyronprunetart(tarteauxpruneauxAveyronnaise)156

bakedAlaska(omelettenorvégienne)200

basictechniques5–40

Basquecustardandblackcherrypie(gâteauBasque)74

BlackForestgateau(forêt-noire)216

blueberryandlemontart(tarteauxmyrtillescitronnées)56

Bretonsbiscuits(galettesBretonnes)238

briochedough(lapâteàbrioche)20

buttercream(lacrèmeaubeurre)32

cannelés(cannelésbordelaise)224

caramel,howtomakea126

caramelizedlemontart(tartecaraméliséeaucitron)60

Chantillychoux(chouxChantilly)116

Chantillycream(lacrèmeChantilly)34

cherryandcinnamonbriochetart(tartebriochéeauxcerises)158

cherryandhazelnutpithiviers(pithiviersàlanoisetteetauxcerises)104

cherryclafoutis(clafoutisauxcerises)166

chestnutandpearcharlotte(charlotteàlachâtaigneetauxpoires)208

chocolateandorangecake(reinedesabaàl’orange)214

chocolateéclairs(éclairsauchocolat)118

chocolatemoussefilling,howtomakeadark62

chocolateprofiteroles(profiterolesauchocolat)120

chocolateshavings,howtomake204

chocolateViennabreads(painsViennoisauchocolat)150

chouxpastry(lapâteàchoux)14,115–34

coffee,vanillaandchocolatebavarois(bavaroiscafé,vanilleetchocolat)186

coffeemoka(mokaaucafé)198

crèmeanglaise26

crèmepâtissière28

crispcinnamonbiscuits(arlettesàlacannelle)252

croissantdough(lapâteàcroissants)16,18

croissants,almondcroissants,painsauchocolatandpainsauxraisins144

croissants,howtorollup136

darkchocolateandlemonmadeleines(madeleinesaucitronetauchocolatnoir)220

darkchocolateandorangemousse(mousseauchocolatnoiràl’orange)184

darkchocolateflorentines(florentinsauchocolatnoir)236

darkchocolatemillefeuille(mille-feuilletoutchocolat)112

deliciouslylightchocolatetart(tarteauchocolatdélicieusementlégère)64

doublechocolateandraspberrysponge(framboisierauxdeuxchocolats)206

EarlGreycrèmebrûlée(crèmebrûléeauthéEarlGrey)180

fig,honeyandalmondtart(tarteamandineaumieletauxfigues)68

fineplumtart(tartefineauxprunes)100

fingerbiscuits(langues-de-chat)242

flakedalmondtuiles(tuilesauxamandeseffilées)234

flans,creamsandeggbatters(lesflans,crèmesetdessertsauxoeufs)165–89

floatingislands(oeufsàlaneige)178

Frenchmeringue(lameringueFrançaises)36,246

Frenchtoast(painsperdus)172

Frenchweddingcake(croquembouche)128

Génoisesponge(lapâteàGénoise)24

greengagetart(tarteauxreines-claudes)48

hazelnutandmilkchocolatemacaroons(macaronsàlanoisetteetauchocolataulait)232

hazelnutdacquoise,howtomakea210

hazelnutlayercake(dacquoiseàlanoisette)212

heart-shapedbiscuits(palmiers)250

icedcoffeecreamchoux(religieuseaucafé)124

Italianmeringue(lameringueItalienne)38

kirschsavarinswithcherrycompote(savarinsaukirsch,compotéedecerises)162

kugelhopf(kouglof)152

lemonmacaroons(macaronsaucitron)230

lemonmeringuepies(tartelettesmeringuéesaucitron)90

lemonsoufflé(souffléaucitron)188

macaroons,howtomake226

mygrandmother’spearclafoutis(clafoutisauxpoiresdemamie)168

mymother’scrèmecaramel(crèmecarameldemamaman)182

mymother’srhubarbtart(tarteàlarhubarbedemaman)46

Nini’ssablésbiscuits(sablésdeNini)240

orangeandGrandMarnierpancakes(crêpessuzette)176

painsauchocolat,howtorollup140

painsauxraisins,howtorollup142

pancakemix,howtomakea174

Parisianbrioches(briochesParisiennes)146

Parisianflantart(flanParisien)54

pastrybase,howtoblindbakea50

pear,chocolateandalmondtart(tarteamandineauchocolatetauxpoires)72

pears,howtopoach70

pinkpralinebrioche(briocheauxpralinesroses)148

pralinechouxcake(Paris-Brest)132

pralineChristmaslog(bûchedenoëlaupraliné)196

pralinepaste,howtomakeahomemade194

puffpastry(lapâtefeuilletée)12,95–114

raspberryandwhitechocolatetart(tarteauxframboisesetauchocolatblancvanilla)84

raspberrymacaroons(macaronsàlaframboise)228

rocsugarchoux(chouquettes)122

rolledbiscuits(cigarettesrusses)244

risingdoughs135–64

rumbabawithvanillawhippedcream(babaaurhum,crèmefouettéeàlavanille)160

sabléepastry(lapâtesablée)10,79–94

Saint-Honoréchouxcake(Saint-Honoré)130

Saint-Tropeztart(tarteTropézienne)154

savarindough(lapâteàsavarin)22

sourcherryandpistachiotartlets(tartelettesâlapistacheetauxcerisesgriottes)80

spongecakes(lespâtesàbiscuit)192–218

spongefingers(biscuitsàlacuillére)248

strawberryandpistachiocreamsponge(fraisieràlapistache)202

strawberrytart(tarteauxfraises)86

summerfruitspufftartlets(tartelettesfeuilletéesauxfruitsd’été)98

sweetpastry(lapâtesucrée)8,59–78

sweetshortcrustpastry(lapâtebriséesucrée)6,41–58

sweettreats(gourmandises)219–53

tarttin,howtolinea42

TwelfthNightcake:almondpitpithivier(galettedesrois)102

vanillaandwhitechocolatemousse,howtomake82

vanillamillefeuille(mille-feuilleàlavanille)108

walnuttart(tarteauxnoix)76

warmchocolatetartlets(tartelettescoulantestoutchocolat)88

WestIndianflan(flanantillais)170

Documents

Patisserie a Step-By-step Guide to Baking French Pastries at Home