SHOP Rome AW15

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ROME | РИМ | 罗马 | ローマ

Italy’s stationery masters

Page 54

VIA CONDOTTI 49/50

Emma Cheevers

EDITOR’S LETTER

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@shopcontent/globalblue /globalblue@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

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Athens and Thessaloniki

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Vilnius

Welcome to Rome

Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you

discover the very best of this historic European capital. Rome has much

to ofer, as our guide on page 86 reveals. In this issue we profle Rome’s

prestigious stationery companies (page 54), readers who appreciate

world-class fashion will enjoy our feature on the renaissance of Valentino

(page 66), and we also explore the Ostiense district (page 74).

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader

that helps you save up to 15.5% when shopping in Italy. We publish

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Open a whole new world

Florence Milan Rome Venice

JAEGER-LECOULTRE BOUTIQUE

Duomètre Unique Travel Time watch

Dr. Craig Venter, decoder of human DNA

CONTRIBUTORS

14

globalblue.com

Verity Hogan

History graduate Verity

Hogan swapped writing

about crinolines for more

contemporary clothes when

she moved to London to

pursue journalism. She

now works as SHOP’s

features editor.

Owen Gildersleeve

Set designer and illustrator

Owen Gildersleeve created

this season’s striking

handcrafted paper cover for

SHOP Rome, inspired by

our feature on luxury Italian

stationery (page 54). His

detailed yet playful approach

made him the perfect choice

and his chosen medium of

paper cut-outs is particularly

appropriate. Owen has won

numerous awards for his

designs and has created work

for titles such as Vogue, Time

and ID magazine, among

many others.

Explore our archive of cover

illustrations at

globalblue.com/covers.

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Ximena Daneri

SHOP’s fashion editor

Ximena Daneri studied

fashion and textile design in

her home city of Buenos Aires

before working as an image

consultant for TV shows and

styling fashion shoots for Para

Ti magazine in Argentina.

Fani Mari

Fani Mari, SHOP’s fashion

coordinator, studied

journalism and psychology at

City University and has also

completed a master’s degree in

fashion journalism at Central

Saint Martins, University of

the Arts London.

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ROMAPiazza di Spagna, 79 - Ph. +39 06 69922394

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SHOP FLOOR

E DI TOR I A L

Editor-in-chief

Emma Cheevers

PU BL I SH I NG

Publisher

James Morris

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Kirsty Welsh

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Yuan Fang

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Junjie Dou

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Qingya He

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Yunhan Fang, Yangzi Liang

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Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi,

Aiyang Zou

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Patrice Janet

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Jacques Stern

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Acting production editor

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Production assistant

Katie Muxworthy

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Verity Hogan

City guide and lifestyle editor

Isabella Redmond Styles

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Ximena Daneri

News editor

Hannah Lewis

Fashion and news assistant

Theresa Harold

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Fani Mari

Chief sub-editor

Hester Lacey

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Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2015 Global Blue

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Stefano Rizzi

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Antonella Bertossi, Flavio Gatti

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Eleonora Busico

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UPSTATE NEW YORK, MAY 2015

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ROMA

VIA FRATTINA 129/131

VIA DEL CORSO 89/90

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CENTRO COMM. EUROMA 2

CONTENTS

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p.54

Above: Pineider bespoke stationery

PRODUCTS

26 Check Out

SHOP selects a standout piece from

Rome this season

28 My Favourites

Designer Federica Gatti of handbag label

F2A reveals her top tips for autumn/winter

2015/16

30 Products

Key looks for the season, from fashion

and footwear to jewellery and accessories

N E WS

40 Shop Window

One store not to be missed in Rome

42 News

Seasonal updates on shops, services

and new products

F E AT U R E S

54 Cover Story: Paper Trail

Without sacrifcing their time-honoured

charm, Italy’s traditional stationers have

evolved to meet modern demands, as Verity

Hogan discovers

66 Reinventing Romance

From sending Hollywood stars down its

catwalk to the opening of a new fagship

store in Rome, Valentino has a new lease

of life, says Harriet Quick

74 Of The Beaten Track

Rome’s Ostiense and Testaccio districts

reveal some unusual sights and distinctive

tastes to Sally McIlhone

CONTENTS

22

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GET SOCIAL

The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com

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E X PE R I E NCE

82 Raising The Bar

Rome’s bars ofer everything from chic

cocktails to great food. Theresa Harold

suggests some perfect places to imbibe

GU I DE

86 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas

of Rome, plus SHOP’s unique view of the

city’s sights

E SSE N T I A L S

114 How To Shop Tax Free

The simple steps to saving money on

your shopping

T R A NSL AT IONS

116 Русский Перевод

122 美文翻译

125 日本語翻訳

SOU V E N I R

130 The essential item to bring home

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26 | PRODUC TS

designer to be honoured with a place in the permanent fne jewellery collection of the Louvre’s Musée des Arts Decoratifs in Paris. Since she launched her company in 2007, she has redefned modern high jewellery through her unusual and often surreal creations. thDelfna Delettrez rings, from €1,300,Delfna Delettrez, Via del Governo Vecchio 66-67, 00186 Rome, +39 06 6813 4105, delfnadelettrez.com

* for map go to page 110

TRICK OF THE EYE

These rose gold and diamond rings by Delfna Delettrez, which feature the distinctive ‘phantom settings’ characteristic of the brand, create the illusion of the jewels resting in the space between the fngers. Perfect for adding some glamour to a simple outft, Delfna Delettrez’s jewellery blurs the line between art and accessories. Delettrez is the youngest

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Federica Gatti, who was born in Rome, is the

young designer behind the handbag label F2A.

She graduated from Rome University of Fine Arts,

where her innate fascination with leather led to

creative experiments with diferent techniques.

F2A’s signature style is a clean, modern design

crafted from the fnest Italian leather and a

distinctive brass handle. This, along with Gatti’s

playful use of colour, makes for a classic and

versatile accessory. Ximena Daneri asks the designer

to share her insider tips on her home city

1. ‘My frst piece was a bag

totally made by hand using

cow leather and a brass

handle. That is now my

iconic product for F2A’

F2A LC bag, from €235,

Mon Reve,

Piazzale del Parco

della Rimembranza 10,

00197 Rome,

+39 06 6401 4664,

f2a-bags.it

2 & 3. ‘I don’t have a single

favourite interior design

brand, but I love Baxter

for armchairs or sofas, and

Ofcine Gullo for kitchens’

Baxter Rocking Housse armchair,

from €4,700 to €5,690,

made to order,

Baxter Garage,

Via Gregorio VII 308-310,

00165 Rome,

+39 06 3938 8109, baxter.it

Ofcine Gullo RAL K7 bespoke

kitchen, price on request,

Ofcine Gullo,

ofcinegullo.it

4. ‘I think every home should

have a Starck juicer’

Alessi Juicy Salif Citrus Squeezer

by Philippe Starck, €50,

La Rinascente, Piazza Fiume,

00189 Rome, +39 06 884 1231,

alessi.com

MY FAVOURITES: Federica Gatti

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SHOP | 29

5 & 6. ‘When I’m travelling,

I always take my Labello

cocoa butter lip balm and

a camera to capture my

memories’

GoPro HD Hero 4 camera, €529.99,

Euronics,

Viale Gioacchino Rossini 11-13,

00198 Rome,

+39 06 2276 9227,

gopro.com

Labello Classic lip balm, €2.50,

Profumeria Iacobelli,

Via Tripoli 171-177, 00199 Rome,

+39 06 8376 7546,

labello.com

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7. ‘My must-have for autumn/

winter 2015/16 has to be the

new Paula Cademartori

sandals – also available in

diferent colours! I really

love them’

Paula Cademartori

Lotus sandals, €1,050, Bagheera,

Via Giovanni Antonelli 26,

00197 Rome, +39 06 808 2295,

paulacademartori.com

DAY TO NIGHT

A classic structured jacket, a pair of ankle boots and a shot of animal print are the makings of versatile, round-the-clock style

30 | PRODUC TS


1. Damiani ring, €1,590, Damiani, Via dei Condotti 84, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6920 0477, damiani.com

2. Pinko coat, €350, Pinko, Via del Babuino 92A/B, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 1394, pinko.it

3. Dodo earrings, €350 each, Dodo, Via del Babuino 27-28, 00187 Rome, +39 06 3601 0289, dodo.it

4. Hugo Boss boots, €725, Hugo Boss, Via Frattina 138, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 6173, hugoboss.com

5. Giorgio Armani bag, €1,350, Giorgio Armani, Via dei Condotti 77, 00187 Rome, +39 06 699 1460, armani.com

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FINISHING TOUCHES

Combine accessories in black and burgundy with metallics to complete your winter wardrobe

SHOP | 31

1. Ermanno Scervino hat, €100, Ermanno Scervino, Via del Babuino 97, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 3173, ermannoscervino.it

2. Loewe keyrings, €125 each, Loewe, Piazza di Spagna 70-71, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 3598, loewe.com

3. Santoni sneakers, €350, Santoni, Piazza di Spagna 79, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 2394, santonishoes.com

4. Bang & Olufsen headphones,

€399, Bang & Olufsen, Via Cristoforo Colombo 193B, 00147 Rome, +39 06 511 5339, bang-olufsen.com

5. A Testoni backpack, €680, A Testoni, Via dei Condotti 80, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 8944, testoni.com

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RICH CARAMEL

Pair striking accessories with classic jeans and a simple coat

32 | PRODUC TS


1. Etro shoes, €575, Etro, Via del Babuino 102, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 8257, etro.com

2. 7 For All Mankind jeans,

€260, 7 For All Mankind, Via delle Carrozze 44A, 00187 Rome, +39 06 9294 7969, 7forallmankind.com

3. Ermenegildo Zegna gloves,

€350, Ermenegildo Zegna, Via dei Condotti 58, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6994 0678, zegna.com

4. Diesel W-Chris coat, €440, Diesel, Piazza di Spagna, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 6817, diesel.com

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FEELING BLUE

Embrace rich navy and break it up with a foral print and beige structured trousers

1. Mango trousers, €39.99, Mango, Via del Corso 170-171A, 00187 Rome, +39 06 699 1105, mango.com

2. Salvatore Ferragamo shoes,

€475, Salvatore Ferragamo, Via dei Condotti 73-74, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 1565, ferragamo.com

3. Sportmax Code jumper, €155, Max Mara, Via dei Condotti 17-19A, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 2104, sportmax.com

4. Cartier necklace, €5,300, Cartier, Via dei Condotti 83, 00187 Rome, +39 06 696 7564, cartier.com

5. Emilio Pucci bag, €1,190, Emilio Pucci, Piazza di Spagna 87, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 4058, emiliopucci.com

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CINDERELLA SLIPPERS

With so many sparkling choices, why wear anything but glitter heels?

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1. Bally heels, €550, Bally, Via dei Condotti 38-39, 00187 Rome, +39 06 699 0236, bally.com

2. Miu Miu heels, €595, Miu Miu, Via del Babuino 91, 00187 Rome, +39 06 3600 4884, miumiu.com

3. Jimmy Choo Rosana heels,

€1,825, Jimmy Choo, Via dei Condotti 68A, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 2667, jimmychoo.com

4. Alberto Guardiani heels, €767, Coin Excelsior, Via Cola di Rienzo 173, 00192 Rome, +39 06 3600 4298, albertoguardiani.com

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5. Senso Zara heels, €185, La Rinascente, Piazza Fiume, 00198 Rome, +39 06 884 1231, senso.it

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SEASONAL STYLE

For an easy wardrobe refresh, pick classic looks for coats and bags and be bolder with accessories

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36 | PRODUC TS


1. Harris Wharf London coat, €400, Blue Marlin & Co, Via Salaria 244, 00198 Rome, +39 06 855 3551, harriswharfondon.co.uk

2. Giuliana Mancinelli Bonafaccia

necklace, €720, Presqu’ile, Via del Corallo 19, 00186 Rome, +39 06 683 2687, giulianamancinelli.com

3. Paula Cademartori Petite Faye

bag, €1,250, Bagheera, Via Giovanni Antonelli 26, 00197 Rome, +39 06 808 2295, paulacademartori.com

4. Tod’s loafers, €350, Tod’s, Via dei Condotti 53A, 00187 Rome, +39 06 699 1089, tods.com

5. Fornasetti Malachite Collection

scented candle, 300g, €155, Campomarzio 70, Via Vittoria 52, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6979 7739, fornasetti.com

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WINTER CHIC

Stay warm and elegant in a long cashmere coat and relaxed knitted hat

5. Alexandra de Curtis bucket bag,

€400, Bagheera, Piazza Euclide 30, 00197 Rome, +39 06 808 6352, alexandradecurtis.com

1. Marella coat, €549, Marella, Via Frattina 129-131, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 3800, marella.com

2. Hermès hat, €495, Hermès, Via dei Condotti 67, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 1882, hermes.com

3. Louis Vuitton earrings, €195, Louis Vuitton, Via dei Condotti 13, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6994 0000, louisvuitton.com

4. Car Shoe loafers, €390, Car Shoe, Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina 5,00187 Rome, +39 06 8938 5111, carshoe.com


SHOP WINDOW

40 | N E WS

wear foor and be sure to save time to explore the private salon. Sumptuously designed with an 18th-century freplace, suede curtains and gilded chairs, this secluded spot benefts from its own private entrance. If you’re looking for a unique piece from one of the most luxurious fashion houses in the world, this is the place to visit. smChanel, Piazza di Spagna 85, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6976 9999, chanel.com


PARIS IN ROME

The Chanel boutique in Rome’s Piazza di Spagna, which opened late last year, is a paragon of chic. Designed by Peter Marino, the boutique ofers four foors of clothing and accessories, as well as some intriguing design details. Marvel at the shapely legs perched on the shelves in the footwear room, admire the captivating artwork displayed on the ready-to-

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42 | NEWS


A POWERFUL LOOK

The latest creations from

Bulgari’s iconic Serpenti

line are as elegant as ever,

setting brilliant diamonds

against the soft, feminine

backdrop of pale rose gold.

The snake has been a symbol

of power since ancient

Greek and Roman times,

suggesting eternity, renewal

and beauty. It is associated

with such signifcant fgures

as Aphrodite, goddess of

WRAP UP WARM

For luxurious outerwear

with a fashion edge, look no

further than Moncler’s latest

womenswear collection. From

cocoon coats to capes to

bomber jackets, Moncler ofers

a shape to suit every taste and

fgure, but it is the textures

and detailing that take centre

stage here. A subtle colour

palette highlights the softness

of fne wool or the volume of

jacquard on otherwise classic

coats. Deep black is chosen as

the base for bold winter forals

on sporty bomber jackets.

Structured shapes exaggerate

the contrasts of luxurious

fabrics, with jacquard pieces

edged in fur proving a real

highlight. For evening, look

out for the soft wool cape with

foral beading: the perfect piece

to wear over a cocktail dress. hl

Moncler, Piazza di Spagna 77,

00187 Rome,

+39 06 6994 0292,

moncler.com


love, and Cleopatra, queen

of the Nile. These are the

ideals that the Italian fne

jewellery house presents in its

Serpenti collection, and in the

Serpenti Tubogas necklace

the concept of feminine

power is more central than

ever. The curves of the piece

sit perfectly against the curves

of the wearer’s neck, creating

a show-stopping piece of

jewellery. hl

Bulgari, Via dei Condotti 10,

00187 Rome, +39 06 696261,

bulgari.com

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SOFTLY, SOFTLY

Max Mara presents a

feminine yet bold collection

this season, taking much of

its inspiration from images of

Marilyn Monroe in the 1960s.

This concept works beautifully

with the Italian fashion house’s

classic style, which has always

focused on excellent materials

and tailoring. Here it becomes

softer and more rounded than

in recent seasons, while still

maintaining Max Mara’s

distinctive style. Soft tailoring

is key, and some of the season’s

best coats and jackets can

be found in this collection.

Soft and slouchy is a strong

silhouette for autumn/winter,

and Max Mara’s contrasts

between ftted separates and

loose knitwear make for one

of the most grown-up and

feminine takes on the trend. hl

Max Mara,

Via dei Condotti 17-19,

00187 Rome,

+39 06 6992 2104,

maxmara.com


FEEL-GOOD FACTOR

Layers and textures

take centre stage in Marina

Rinaldi’s collection for

autumn/winter 2015/16,

which focuses on a wintry

but warm palette of deep

greys, navy blues, muted jewel

tones and, of course, classic

black. Contrasting materials

are superimposed to add a

new dimension to timeless

silhouettes. Lace and wool

add texture, while fashes of

bold checks and animal prints

stand out against slimming

block colours. As always with

Marina Rinaldi, the hourglass

is the central shape, and

the collection wouldn’t be

complete without a selection of

waist-cinching belts. mkh

Marina Rinaldi,

Via Borgognona 4-5/

Via Bocca di Leone 79,

00187 Rome,

+39 06 6920 0487,

marinarinaldi.com

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44 | NEWS


SECOND SKINS

Creative duo Catia Di Carlo and Andrea

Bonfni met in Rome while studying fashion

design. They came together a few years later to

create CA2, an accessories brand that uses only

leather, transferring traditional Chinese paper-

carving techniques to leather gloves, scarves,

and shawls. CA2 pieces are both intricate and

unique. Di Carlo and Bonfni describe their

leather patterns as ‘tattoos’, and it’s easy to see

why. The items mould to the body and take on

a second-skin quality. This season’s colours

range from vivid purple and deep red to black,

white and metallic. th

Herzel de Bach, Via del Babuino 123,

00187 Rome, +39 06 678 3384,

ca2creative.com


JUST FOR MEN

Industrial designer Marc Buhre created

the interior for the new Stone Island store in

Rome, on the prestigious Via del Babuino.

The store’s interiors, with large ceiling vaults,

bright fbreglass fxtures and fttings, and

stunning oiled oak and carbon accents, are just

as appealing as the garments on ofer. Stone

Island’s pioneering approach to menswear

lies in its innovative ability to combine unique

materials with sleek form and functionality.

Housing both Stone Island and Stone Island

Junior, the store also ofers the covetable

Shadow Project collection with its new

generation of urban, masculine apparel;

a must for any style-conscious male. km

Stone Island, Via del Babuino 174-175,

00187 Rome, +39 06 3600 0836,

stoneisland.com


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SHOP AT TESTONI.COM


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VIVA FURLA!

Respected Italian brand Furla has just renovated and reopened its Rome fagship. Furla is known for its luxurious handbags, which fuse fashion-forward styles with fun and youthful colours, shapes and textures, a vast range of which can be found here in Rome. Look out for the Viva Furla bag, the label’s take on the ubiquitous bucket-style handbag. This colour-block bag in textured leather is part of Furla’s campaign to add artistic style to the world of accessories. A must-have shape for the season, Furla’s take on the bucket bag is both trend-led and unique. hlFurla, Piazza di Spagna 22, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6920 0363, furla.com


PUSHING THE BOUNDARIES

Romanian designer Dina Dancu lives and works in Rome, and studied fne art in the city. Dancu’s creative process starts with a shape; allowing her bags to evolve from this inspires her innovative pieces, which push the boundaries of function and form. Her desire to create beautiful objects led her to start an accessories label, My Mist, in 2013. My Mist is sold online and in selected boutiques; all products are handmade in Italy using high-quality materials such as leather, linen and faux fur. thAlexandra, Via Paolo Emilio 19-23, 00192 Rome, +39 06 324 3311, mymist.it

48 | NEWS


BOHEMIAN BURBERRY

Burberry has taken a

bohemian approach to its

menswear designs for this

season, with layering, fringe

detailing and materials such as

corduroy, linen and shearling

as the cornerstones. Diferent

textures and contrasting

colours mark this collection as

one of Burberry’s most eclectic

yet; elements include felted

wool cashmere and corduroy

with mirror embellishments in

deep, inky blues, fuchsia and

turquoise. This season also

sees the introduction of two

luxury accessories: the fringed

scarf, made with Scottish-

woven check cashmere,

and the carryall bag, an

unstructured tote in grainy

leather with suede fringing. rp

Burberry,

Via dei Condotti 59-61,

00187 Rome,

+39 06 675 0101,

burberry.com


BAUHAUS STYLE

Drawing inspiration from its

own archives, Fratelli Rossetti

has given a Bauhaus spin to

its accessories for autumn/

winter, updating some of its

core styles with the bold lines

and contrasting colours of this

famous architectural school.

Originally launched in 1975,

these ankle boots have been

reimagined in bold colour

schemes which juxtapose light

and dark hues, the Bauhaus-

inspired design making use

of contrasting textures and

shades. The style is already

loved for its classic shape and

quality materials, and the new

design updates its 1970s look

for the modern day. mkh

Fratelli Rossetti,

Via Borgognona 5A,

00187 Rome,

+39 06 678 2676,

fratellirossetti.com


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SPELLING IT OUT

Donatella Versace knows how to draw attention to her designs and for autumn/winter 2015/16 her attitude is certainly ‘more is more’. Prints, vibrant primary colours, sky-high heels and over-the-knee boots are some of the bold elements of the collection. Big, square belts are also a focal point this season, proving that often accessories are central to creating the perfect outft.

INTENSE SCENTS

Dolce & Gabbana’s latest fragrance releases, Velvet Exotic Leather and Velvet Mimosa Bloom, result from the design duo’s exploration of the ancient traditions of perfumery. Part of the Velvet collection, the new scents are built on the olfactory memories of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, and are designed to awake the senses with their intensity. For men, Exotic Leather recreates the essence of masculine skin, featuring woody notes as well as the complex scent of leather itself. For women, Mimosa Bloom places the mimosa fower centre stage; mandarin, bergamot, narcissus and violet all further enhance this complex foral fragrance. mkh

Dolce & Gabbana, Piazza di Spagna 93-95, 00187 Rome, +39 06 699 1592, dolcegabbana.com


The colour combinations of black with red and black with green take us back several decades, refecting a version of the brand’s long history that fts into the digital age. The crystal pieces that spell out the Versace name, which feature in many of the looks, are a nod to the original line created under Gianni Versace. fmVersace, Via Bocca di Leone 26, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 0521,versace.com


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52 | NEWS


BACK TO BASICS

Italian fashion powerhouse Prada introduced

a beautifully simple menswear ofering at Milan

men’s fashion week earlier this year. Focused

squarely on utilitarian elegance, the collection is

more of a luxury uniform for modern life than

a series of trend-led pieces. This understated

range is built upon crisp nylon, primarily seen in

shirts and raincoats, reminiscent of the Pocone

nylon backpacks head designer Miuccia Prada

created when she frst joined the family frm in

the late 1970s. While hints of navy and steely

blues and greys make very brief appearances,

the collection is almost entirely black. Its slick

silhouettes and fabrics mark it out as one of the

label’s most forward-looking, and introduce a

new set of luxury wardrobe staples. rp

Prada, Via dei Condotti 88-90,

00187 Rome, +39 06 679 0897,

prada.com


MODERN LUXE

This season’s Ermenegildo Zegna menswear

collection is a masterclass in luxury fabrics.

The Italian fashion house, founded over a

century ago as a luxury wool mill, has gone

back to its roots with pieces crafted from

the fnest wools and cashmeres. A palette of

dusky pastels, earthy khaki greens and rusty

browns dominates an otherwise monochrome

collection. Highlights include cashmere polo-

neck sweaters matched with exquisitely tailored

velvet sports coats, while an impressive array

of tweed caps is echoed in a tweed printed

raincoat. This collection, which matches luxury

fabrics with practical necessity, makes it easy to

see why Ermenegildo Zegna is a go-to label for

luxury modern menswear. rp

Ermenegildo Zegna, Via dei Condotti 58,

00187 Rome, +39 06 6994 0678,

zegna.com


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Without sacrifcing their time-honoured charm,

Italy’s traditional stationers have evolved to meet

modern demands, as Verity Hogan discovers

PAPER TRAIL

Previous page: Pineider bespoke stationery

From the Dukes of Savoy to the young aristocrats on the Grand Tour, those with a taste for the fner things in

life have always admired Italy’s handmade paper. Today, the country’s stationery still enjoys an acclaimed reputation. Much of it is manufactured using the fnest traditional components, incorporating techniques that have remained almost unchanged since the early 18th century. From leather-bound journals and personalised, embossed writing paper to visiting cards and covered storage boxes, the range available is extensive and of the highest quality.

56 | F E AT U R E S

In Europe, the oldest known surviving document on paper (as opposed to parchment) is housed in the state archive in Palermo. With text in Arabic and Greek, it dates back to 1109. Yet it is widely believed that it wasn’t until the 13th century that Italian stationers took the ancient method of papermaking and transformed it into a major commercial product, becoming internationally renowned for paper production in the process.

Few companies can boast a more illustrious legacy than Fabriano, with a heritage dating back to 1264. The company takes its name from the little town of Fabriano in the Marche

Fine arts papers made in the little town of Fabriano in the 15th century were used and praised by Michelangelo

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region where it is based. This became a

successful papermaking centre largely because

of its proximity to Ancona, a port with

particularly strong ties to Arab trade routes. In

the 15th century, fne arts papers made here

were used and highly praised by Michelangelo.

The town’s workshops pioneered techniques

that are now commonplace in the papermaking

industry, such as using watermarks, and surface

sheet gluing with gelatine.

Fabriano the company developed from

these artisans’ workshops and has remained

successful thanks to its ability to adapt,

responding to trends and catering to changing

consumer demands. The product range has

evolved beyond fne arts to include everyday

ofce supplies and drawing pads as well as

beautifully presented writing sets. Today, the

company is also committed to renewable energy

and makes extensive use of self-generated

hydroelectric power in its production.

Il Papiro’s products retain historic charm and boast a timeless quality that defies passing trends

Above (from top): Il Papiro store, Rome; the brand ofers inspiring leter writing sets; an assortment of its pencils

Previous page (clockwise from top lef): inside Fabriano’s Rome store; a colourful selection of paper from Il Papiro; Fabriano stationery selection

60 | FEATURES

In contrast, the product range at Il Papiro

is grounded in artisanal tradition and each of

the company’s 18 shops has been designed to

have a traditional air, refecting the elegant

atmosphere of its frst store in Florence. Items

on ofer range from paisley-printed notebooks

to leather-bound journals and stunning

hand-marbled papers. The company’s owners,

Francesco Giannini and Gianni Parenti, were

born in Florence and are closely associated with

the city’s artisan community, ensuring that

their products retain historic charm and boast

a timeless quality that defes passing trends.

Pineider is one of Italy’s oldest paper

manufacturers, having catered to a suitably

discerning clientele since Francesco Pineider

opened his frst shop in 1774. ‘Our stationery

is one of a kind and known internationally

for the unique quality of the paper stocks

and the exclusive printing techniques of our

master hand engravers,’ explains company

spokeswoman Linda Zamboni. ‘Our paper

is all chlorine-free, the inks are natural, and

we apply traditional Italian artisanal methods

to make our papers perfect to the touch and

wonderful to write on.’

The company has been able to survive and

thrive for more than 240 years by maintaining

the traditional production methods from

which its frst fortunes were made. Yet modern

techniques have also been incorporated. ‘Of

course, new techniques and new technologies

have changed some procedures,’ Zamboni says.

‘But the colouring of the borders in some of our

collections is still done by hand, as it used to be

ages ago. It’s the same with the making of our

paper boxes, which are handcrafted in house.’

Above (from top): Pineider Capri collection; one of the brand’s engravers at work

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OLIVIA PALERMO

London, March 2015

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62 | F E AT U R E S

Above: Pineider’s hand-engraved casts

From made-to-order visiting cards to writing papers featuring elegant, embossed characters and coats of arms, Pineider’s varied product range has always attracted a dedicated following. Former clients include literary heavyweights such as Lord Byron and Elizabeth Barrett Browning, and Hollywood stars from Marlene Dietrich to Elizabeth Taylor. ‘Our clientele is still the most refned in the world,’ says Zamboni. ‘We’re very thankful to all those who appreciate the unique quality of our made-in-Italy stationery products.’

Today, the company ofers a wide range of stationery goods, from beautifully crafted pieces for a special occasion – papers featuring hand-engraved cursive lettering, and modern square cards and envelopes with printed coloured borders – to the Capri collection, which features hand-coloured borders made from natural pigments and envelopes with matching handmade tissue paper lining.

The company is continually evolving. Zamboni reveals a development hitherto a secret: Pineider is about to launch a new engraving technique. It will, she says, ‘have the result of an embossed printing from a hand-engraved cast of a calligraphic text.’

In a world where communication is increasingly conducted electronically, it is heartening to see that demand for high-quality stationery in Italy has increased rather than diminished. Without losing touch with their roots, the companies that frst catered to the literary elite and aristocratic adventurers have been able to develop their product selections to appeal to a modern audience. As Zamboni explains, ‘hand engraving dates back to previous centuries but, of course, now new technologies are involved. The precision of the master engraver, though, is the same as it used to be.’ fabriano.com, ilpapirofrenze.it, pineider.com

Iceberg

Downtown Gallery

Lily McMenamy, model

and actress

London

photo Olivier Zahm

Roma - Via del Babuino 87/88 - T. 06 32600221

ROMA | Via del Babuino 20 | Tel. +39 06 326.512.56

| Via Cola di Rienzo 266 | Tel. +39 06 688.079.02

| Via del Corso c/o Gall. A. Sordi 27/28 | Tel. +39 06 692.020.79

| Via Appia Nuova 168/170 | Tel. +39 06 772.044.66

REINVENTING ROMANCE

From sending Hollywood stars down its catwalk to the opening of a new fagship store in Rome, Valentino has

a new lease of life, says Harriet Quick

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Previous page: Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson take centre stage at the Valentino autumn/winter 2015/16 catwalk fnale

Sometimes a city belongs to a fashion

house and right now Valentino can

rightly stake a claim to Rome. The fabled

city that has bewitched designers, architects,

flmmakers and creators through the centuries

is home to Valentino’s monumental new

fagship store and headquarters, located on

Piazza di Spagna, next to the 16th-century

Palazzo Mignanelli.

The piazza and its famous Spanish Steps

are steeped in history and the Fontana della

Barcaccia at the foot of the steps is the work

of sculptor Pietro Bernini and his son Gian

Lorenzo Bernini.

Last July, Valentino’s joint creative

directors Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria

Grazia Chiuri celebrated their leadership

and showcased the couture collection with a

magical party. ‘We are the second generation

of fashion,’ says Piccioli. Both he and Chiuri,

who were appointed in 2008, live close to

Rome with their respective families. ‘The big

egos are of a diferent generation. I think our

generation thinks more about women and style:

we don’t want to be celebrities ourselves but we

love the work of fashion, creating the show,

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70 | FEATURES

Above: the interior of the Rome fagship refects the brand’s cool, romantic aesthetic

the message, the music, the space and the girls.

Working together on this is fascinating. Having

two points of view makes the vision more

interesting and maybe more complex.’

Although the party’s spectacular freworks

and catwalk show have passed, the store,

designed by David Chipperfeld Architects,

promises to captivate well into the future.

This three-storey, 1,470-square-metre space,

clad in grey Venetian terrazzo, timber and

leather, with polished columns and striking

single-drop lighting, emanates that hard-to-

achieve combination of monumental presence

and grace. The stripped-back environment

allows the cool, romantic DNA of the modern

Valentino brand to shine through. Men can

even have jeans made to measure.

Over the past ten years, Piccioli and

Chiuri, who were formerly employed as heads

of accessories at the brand, have been working

away to rejuvenate Valentino and reinterpret

the glamour and passion that made founder

Valentino Garavani, who retired in 2007, a

household name.

Previous page (from top): Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, creative directors of Valentino; the Piazza di Spagna fagship store

The launch of Valentino’s Rome flagship was celebrated with a spectacular party and the store promises to captivate well into the future

72 | FEATURES

Clockwise (from above): Valentino autumn/winter 2015/16; the brand’s bestselling Rockstud heels and its camoufage sneakers; CEO Stefano Sassi

SHOP | 73

The path they’ve chosen is a fnely tuned

balance of artisanal techniques, modern

wearability (some dresses even have pockets!)

and a dreamy, insouciant attitude. You can see

it in the long, poetic feather, lace and patchwork

dresses they have made their trademark, in

the stud rivets that adorn their bestselling

heels, in the cool camoufage sneakers and

the 3D embroidered foral handbags (made in

collaboration with print legend Celia Birtwell),

and in the butterfy prints that fit over spring/

summer’s menswear pieces.

‘We don’t know what’s going to happen

tomorrow, it’s important to create a style for

now,’ says Chiuri. ‘And we need to dream –

dreams show optimism, the promise of change,

however difcult that might be.’

It’s an image that is winning fans the

world over; not only women – Keira Knightley,

Alexa Chung and Olivia Palermo are some

of Valentino’s many famous devotees – but

also men. At the Paris autumn/winter 2015

ready-to-wear collections, Valentino stole

the show when actors Ben Stiller and Owen

Wilson strode down the catwalk for the fnale

wearing shades of blue silk and denim in

their Zoolander roles of Derek Zoolander and

Hansel. The injection of wit into the serious

world of luxury proved infectious. The moment

created a barrage of social media (Valentino’s

Instagram followers number over three million)

and brilliantly announced the return of Wilson

and Stiller in Zoolander 2, slated for release in

early 2016. Scenes for the flm have been shot

in Valentino’s Rome atelier.

Behind the scenes, CEO Stefano Sassi is

engineering a buoyant future for the house

under its new owner, Mayhoola for Investments,

a Qatari-based investment fund that acquired

Valentino for a reputed €700m in 2012. Sassi

praises Chiuri and Piccioli’s clarity of vision

and their skillful mix of the ‘informal and formal.’

Rome is experiencing a cultural renaissance,

as new designers such as Marco de Vincenzo

and Stella Jean and artists such as Frieze star

Gabriele de Santis rise through the maelstrom

of tough economic times. This makes it an even

more enticing city to visit. And all you need to

fully immerse yourself in the new Valentino

world and allow the design to work its magic

is a little time to daydream

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Rome’s Ostiense and Testaccio districts reveal some unusual sights and distinctive tastes to Sally McIlhone

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

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Visitors to a city with attractions as popular and frequently photographed as Rome’s can be forgiven for thinking

there are no hidden gems left to mine. Happily, two of the city’s lesser-known districts, Ostiense and Testaccio, have yet to become part of the well-trodden tourist trail.

Located in the south of Rome, Ostiense was recently the subject of a New York Times piece following reinvestment in the area and the arrival of the world’s largest branch of Eataly, the Italian gourmet department store. Strolling through this former industrial centre,

it’s impossible to miss the old factories that have been given a new lease of life with bright street art. Alongside are landmarks from the area’s past, such as the Gasometro, or gasometer, often described locally as the ‘modern Colosseum’, while in Testaccio, a short walk north, the Ex Mattatoio, or ex-slaughterhouse, now houses Macro, the Museo d’Arte Contemporanea Roma. Exploring the areas on foot makes an unusual urban safari; a perfect way to wander of the beaten track.

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Previous page: Eating Italy food tours give visitors a taste of Rome

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Diesel Flagship Store Rome piazza di Spagna, 18 - angolo vicolo del Bottino

Diesel Store Rome via del Corso, 118

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Previous page (from top): the Hopside gastropub; gourmet department store Eataly; the Gasometro, an Ostiense landmark

Above: the Musei Capitolini Centrale Montemartini

contribute to Ostiense’s regeneration following

its decline after the closure of Rome’s wholesale

market in the 1990s. ‘The decision to open in

Ostiense came from the desire to be surrounded

by a challenging environment as well as to play

a leading role in the new development of this

area of Rome,’ she says. Alongside its menu of

beers, Hopside ofers a delectable array of Italian

meats and cheese as well as burgers and more

American-inspired fare.

Just north and east of Ostiense, the Testaccio

neighbourhood is the original epicurean area of

Rome and the place where cucina romana has its

roots. Eating Italy food tours ofers a four-hour

Taste of Testaccio walking tour of the area. ‘The

tour features nine authentic food stops with 12

delicious tastings, and guests get to escape the

crowds and taste the best of what Rome has to

ofer,’ explains Maria Pasquale, the company’s

PR and social media manager. ‘Along the way

our experienced guides entertain and educate

visitors with stories and insights into Rome’s

culture and history, exploring the city’s most

fascinating ofbeat landmarks.’

For those with a penchant for more

classical works of art, a visit to Ostiense’s Musei

Capitolini Centrale Montemartini is a must.

The Giovanni Montemartini Thermoelectric

Centre was Rome’s frst electricity-producing

public power plant. In 1997, its restructured

rooms were transformed into a unique exhibition

space and used to house sculptures from the

Palazzo dei Conservatori museum, the Museo

Nouvo and the Braccio Nuovo. The Machines

and the Gods exhibition of 1997 juxtaposed

classical stone fgures with antique machinery

to stunning efect and, thanks to a staggeringly

positive response, the former plant became part

of the municipal museum system. The Musei

Capitolini Centrale Montemartini is another

landmark that’s helping to redefne the district as

a new cultural centre in Rome.

As well as acclaimed art galleries, Ostiense

also ofers a wide variety of dining options,

including Hopside, an award-winning wood-

panelled gastropub famed for its Italian and

craft beers. Patrizia de Titta, Hopside’s general

manager, explains that the company wanted to

80 | FEATURES

Above (from top): eat like a local with Eating Italy food tours; cheeses from the Volpeti delicatessen

As well as ofering tastings of pizza, gelato

and three local pasta dishes (cacio e pepe,

amatriciana and carbonara), the tour takes

in the local market where guests can sample

fresh bruschetta and ricotta cannoli. With a

maximum of 12 guests on each tour, visitors are

assured a personal service. ‘Our tour lets you

experience Rome like a local, in a working-class

Roman neighbourhood where people live, eat

and shop,’ says Pasquale.

Another authentic slice of Roman life can be

found at Volpetti. This delicatessen and specialist

food store opened in 1973, previously catering to

the discerning employees of the local market and

slaughterhouses. ‘They were real food experts,

always looking for the right ingredient for their

homemade meals,’ says Alessandro Volpetti.

Today, the store remains an essential resource for

locals and it vacuum-packs its speciality meats

and cheese for visitors. ‘Testaccio is still like

a small village in a big city,’ Volpetti explains.

‘Beyond the many traces of Roman history you

fnd here, Testaccio is also considered one of the

gastronomic hearts of Rome.’

After stocking up on epicurean delights, be

sure to explore Testaccio’s array of independent

stores. Andrea 925 is a highlight, ofering a

standout selection of silver jewellery. Choose

from rings shaped like cassettes and lucky

horseshoes, and pendants in the form of

headphones and record players.

Whether you are an art lover, a gourmet,

enjoy discovering new boutiques or would

simply like to see an authentic slice of Roman

life, the unexpected delights of Ostiense and

Testaccio are well worth seeking out

museomacro.org, centralemontemartini.org,

hopside.it, eatingitalyfoodtours.com,

volpetti.com, andrea925.com

ROME

C.C. ROMA EST - VIA COLLATINA, 858 C.C. ROMA TERMINI - P.ZZA DEI CINQUECENTO, 53

C.C. PORTA DI ROMA, VIA A. LIONELLO, 201

FIUMICINO (RM) C.C. MARKET CENTRAL DA VINCI VIA G. MONTANARI, LOC LE VIGN

MOTIVI.COM

globalblue.com

82 | EXPER IENCE

The Italian concept of aperitivo, very much

a part of Rome’s culture, is the time to

relax before a delicious dinner and enjoy a

sophisticated drink with a few simple dishes

to pique the appetite.

Campari and soda, an Aperol spritz or a

chilled glass of Prosecco are among the most

popular Italian aperitivi but there is more to it

than bar snacks and alcohol; the aperitivo hour

is a time to wind down, chat, and see and be

seen. Most establishments will ofer a selection

of light refreshments, usually complimentary,

and likely to range from olives and nuts to

bruschetta, tramezzini (sandwiches), pasta,

salads, or even small portions of pizza – bear in

mind that Italian dinner is often served quite

late in the evening, though don’t be tempted to

eat too much.

Aperitivo hours vary from bar to bar, but

are likely to start around 6pm and fnish by

9pm. The right atmosphere can make or break

your aperitivo, so be sure to choose a spot with

great service and a memorable setting.

RAISING THE BARRome’s bars ofer everything from

chic cocktails to great food. Theresa

Harold suggests some perfect places

to imbibe

SHOP | 83

N E C C I

Located in ultra-cool Pigneto,

Necci is a distinctive gem in

a district flled with bars and

restaurants. Film bufs might

recognise the location from

Pier Paolo Pasolini’s flm

Accattone, which was shot

here in 1961. This welcoming

joint boasts a garden terrace,

an extensive drinks menu and

homemade food served all

day. Whether you’re dropping

in for breakfast or settling in

for the evening with a glass of

wine, be sure to visit the gift

store for cool souvenirs.

Necci,

Via Fanfulla da Lodi 68,

00176 Rome,

+39 06 9760 1552,

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globalblue.com

F R E N I E F R I Z I O N I

A name that translates into English as ‘brake and clutch’ is a clue that Freni e Frizioni is located in a former garage. This café-bar draws a young, artistic crowd who are here to enjoy the great food and even better drinks. From 7pm to 10pm, an enticing bufet is served on a long, candlelit table. Frene e Frizioni’s riverside location in the Trastevere neighbourhood also makes it a must-visit destination.Freni e Frizioni,Via del Politeama 4-6, 00153 Rome, +39 06 4549 7499, freniefrizioni.com

O P E N B A L A D I N R O M A

Those who prefer beer to wine will fnd that Open Baladin Roma is the neighbourhood pub they’ve always wanted. This watering hole, which opened in 2009, serves over 100 bottled beers, 40 Italian draught beers, and an ever-changing daily menu. The bar’s name was chosen to communicate the spirit of openness that pervades every aspect of the business, from the opening of the beer to the transparency of the staf’s preparations to the warm welcome you’ll receive at the open door. Open Baladin Roma,Via degli Specchi 6, 00186 Rome,+39 06 683 8989, openbaladinroma.it

E T A B L Ì

A stone’s throw from Piazza Navona, this restaurant-cum-café-cum-bar is renowned for its relaxed atmosphere. After a hard day’s sightseeing, curl up on one of its many leather couches with a book and a Negroni in hand. Like many of Rome’s best bars, this establishment caters to the brunch crowd, the after-work crowd, and everything in between; in short, it is a great place to experience la dolce vita.Etablì,Vicolo delle Vacche 9, 00186 Rome,+39 06 9761 6694, etabli.it

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Above: the architectural grandeur of the Colosseum

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Rome with a

look at the city’s must-visit destinations, including stores that ofer beautiful

luxury leather goods and perfect stationery. Start with our highlights before

delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further

helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/rome.

A GLIMPSE OF ROME

GUIDE

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SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY

‘When you’re in Rome,

be prepared to spend an

astonishing amount of time

staring in wonder at the city’s

ancient ruins and neoclassical

masterpieces’ – Hannah Lewis,

SHOP’s news editor

GUIDE | 89

Follow our team’s travels on

Instagram @shopcontent. Tag

us in your city pictures when

sharing them and you might

see them in print!

90 | GUIDE

Place Of Interest

VIA

EZ

IO

VIA DEI CAPPELLARI

VIA DEI GR ACCHI

VIA DEI GR ACCHI

VIA DEI GRACCHI

VIA GERMANICO

VIA POMPEO MAGNO

VIA POMPEO MAGNO

VIA

DE

I PE

NIT

EN

ZIE

RI

VIA

LE

DE

LL

E M

UR

A A

UR

EL

IE

VIA

GIU

LIA

VIA

GIU

LIA

VIA DEI BANCH I NUOVI

VIA DEL GOVERNO VECCHIO

VIA DEI CORONARI

VIA DEGLI SCIPIONI

VIA DEGLI SCIPIONI

VIA

SIL

LA

VIA

DE

I BA

NC

HI V

ECCH

I

VIA DI MO

NS

ER

RA

TO

VIA DEL PELLEGRINO

VIA

DI PA

NICO

VIA

DI S

AN

TA

MA

RIA

DE

LL'A

NIM

A

BORGO SANTO SPIRITO

VIA

AL

ES

SA

ND

RO

FA

RN

ES

E

VIA PLINIO

VIA VALADIERV

IA M

AR

CA

NT

ON

IO C

OL

ON

NA

V

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ICE

RO

NE

VIA GIUSEPPE GIOACHINO BELLI

VIA

TAC

ITO

VIA

TAC

ITO

VIA

OR

AZ

IO

VIA

PA

OL

O E

MIL

IO V

IA O

VID

IOVIA BOEZIO

VIA ENNIO QUIRINO VISCONTI

VIA

FA

BIO

MA

SS

IMO

VIA

TE

RE

NZ

IO

VIA ALBERICO II

VIA STEFANO PORCARI VIA GIOVANNI VITELLESCHI

VIA

DE

GL

I OM

BR

EL

LA

RI

VIA DELLA CONCILIAZIONE

VIA

DI P

OR

TA

AN

GE

LIC

A

LUN

GO

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VE

RE

GIA

NIC

OL

EN

SE

VIA

VIR

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IO

VIA

BA

RL

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TA

V

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AV

IAN

O

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O D

EL

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AS

CIM

EN

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CORSO VITTO

RIO EMA

NU

ELE II

CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE II

LUNGOTEVERE TOR DI NONA LUNG OTEVERE M

ARZIO

LUN

GO

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VE

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DE

L SA

NG

ALLO

VIA COLA DI RIENZO

VIA COLA DI RIENZO

VIA CRESCENZIO VIA CRESCENZIO

VIA DEI COR R IDORI BORGO SANT'ANGELO

VIALE GIULIO CESARE

VIALE GIULIO CESAREL

UN

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VE

RE

MIC

HE

LA

NG

ELO

LU

NG

OT

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EI M

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LIN

I

VIA VITTORIA COLONNA Piazza

Adriana

PiazzaCavour

Piazzadella

Libertà

PIAZZANAVONA

LEPANTO

OTTAVIANOSAN PIETRO -MUSEI VATICANI

PIAZZA SAN PIETRO

VIA DELLACONCILIAZIONE

CASTEL SANT’ANGELO

PALAZZODI GIUSTIZIA

PONTESANT'ANGELO

PiazzaDei

Quiriti

Piazza DelRisorgimento

MAXXI

Metro

page

112

page

110

ROME

P.104

P.104

Featured In This Issue

globalblue.com

SHOP | 91

VIA LAZIO

V

IA SARDEGNA

VIA DEI PREFETTI

VIA DELLA MERCEDE

VIA

XI

X

VM

AG

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VIA D

EL QUIR

INALE

V

IA V

ENTI SETTEM

BRE

VIMINAL HILL

VIA I V NOVEMBRE

VIA

DE

LL

A P

ILO

TT

A

VIA DEL SE MINARIO

VIA

DE

LL

A R

OT

ON

DA

VIA DEL POZZO

VIA M

AR

GU

TTA

VIA VITTORIA

VIA FR ATTINA

VIA DELLE COPPELLE

VIA DELL'UMILTÀ VIA DELLA DATARIA V

IA MILA

NO

VIA M

ILAN

O

VIA LUDOVISI

VIA BONCOMPAGNI

VIA LOMBARDIA

VIA SICILIA

VIA D

I SA

N B

ASIL

IO

VIA LIGURIA

VIA DELL A CROCE

VIA

LE G

ABRIELE D'ANNUNZIO

VIALE TRINITÀ DEI M

ON

TI

VIA SISTINA

VIA SISTINA

VIA DELLE QUATTRO FONTANE

VIA

FR

AN

CE

SC

O C

RIS

PI

V

IA D

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RTA

PIN

CIA

NA

VIA

LE SAN

PAOLO

DEL BR

ASILE

VIA N

AZIONALE

VIA N

AZIONALE

VIA

DI R

IPE

TT

A

VIA CONDOTTI

VI A DEL PLEBISCITO

VIA D

EL BABU

INO

VIA D

EI DU

E MACELLI

VIA

VIT

TO

RIO

VE

NE

TO

VIA

L E DEL MURO TORTO

CORSO D'IT ALIAVIA PINCIANA

VIA DEL TRITONE

VIA DEL TRITONE

VIA BARBERINI

VIA

DE

L C

OR

SO

VIA

DE

L C

OR

SO

VIA

DE

L C

OR

SO

VIA

DE

L C

OR

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VIA TOMACELLI

Piazza DelPopolo

PiazzaColonna

PiazzaVenezia

Piazza diSan Silvestro

PiazzaBarberini

Piazza delParlamento

PiazzaDella

Rotonda

FONTANADI TREVI

SANT’IGNAZIO

SANTA MARIASOPRA MINERVA

PANTHEON

PALAZZO DIMONTECITORIO

COLONNA AURELIA

PIAZZA DISAN LORENZO

IN LUCINA

VIA FONTANELLABORGHESE

PiazzaAugustoImperatore

MAUSOLEODI AUGUSTO

VILLA BORGHESE

SPAGNA

BARBERINIFONTANA DI TREVI

PIAZZADI SPAGNA

TRINITÀDEI MONTI

PiazzaMignanelli

page

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Via del Babuino Via Margutta

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TRIDENTE AREA

VIA

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VIA DI GESU E MARIA

VIA DI SAN GIACOMO

VIA DEI GRECI

VIA DELLE FONTANELLA

VIA VITTORIA VIA ALIBERT

VIA LAURINA

VIA

DE

L B

AB

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VIA

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L B

AB

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VIA DELLA CROCE VIA DI SAN SEBASTIANELLOPiazza Di Spagna

● LELLI

● EMMA OTTO

● DIAMANTE

● SADDLERS UNION

● ARTEMIDE

● SERGIO NESCI

● BOFFI

● WISKY & CO

● MARCHETTI

● BRUNO MURATORI

● CAMPAIOLA

● MARGUTTA OTTICA

● VUELLE

● E&R DANON

● VENEZIANI

● RICHARD DI CASTRO

● ANIMALIER E OLTRE

● COCOZZA

● CONSORTI

● MUCCI

● IL MARMORARO

● MASSONI

● IL MONDO DELL’ARTE

● PALAZZO MARGUTTA

● FLAIR

● MONOGRAMMA

● MONIES

● ENIGMA

BONUCCELI ●

GOFFI CARBONI ●

GROSSI MAURIZIO ●

ARTEMIDE ●

GALLERIA VITTORIA ●

MARGUTTA 102 ●

CALZOLERIA ●

AREA CONTESA ●

PROFUMERIA HB ●

CHIARA BASCHIERI ●

TROLLBEADS ●

RED VALENTINO ●

NUOVA ANTE PRIMA ●

THE FIFTH SEASON BY ROBERTO COIN ●

SERRA ●

GENTE ●

MARIO OASI ●

COEN ●

LA NUVOLA ●

RINALDI ●EUROPEAN FINE ART ●

LA PALLINA ●

GIO

VA

NN

IR

AS

PIN

I ●

FR

AT

EL

LI P

ET

OC

CH

I ●

VIA DI SAN GIACOMO

VIA DEI GRECI

VIA MARGUTTA

VIA

DE

LB

AB

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OV

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BA

BU

INO

VIA

DE

LC

OR

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VIA LAURINA

VIA

BO

CC

AD

IL

EO

NE

VIA DELLE CARROZZE

VIA VITTORIA

VIA ALIBERT

Piazza Di Spagna

● 100% CAPRI● DE GRISOGONO● PALAZZO FABI● BOGGI● CHOPARD

● HERVÉ LÉGER● DODO

● COMPAGNIA ITALIANA● VOGUE SHOP● BARRILÀ BOUTIQUE● TORY BURCH● BRIONI

● JO MALONE

● OMAI NOW OR NEVER● MAISON MARGIELA PARIS

● SANDRO FERRONE

● CARLUCCI

● AAA

● SANDRO

● HB PROFUMERIE

● DAVID MAYER NAMAN

● TUMI

● CANALI● FRATELLI ROSSETTI● RED VALENTINO● HAUSMANN & CO ● IL GUFO● MISS GRANT● LES COPAINS● VHERNIER● ARMANI JEANS

● SERAPIAN

● GENTE

● GENTE● FLOS● PIAZZA SEMPIONE● ICEBERG● MIU MIU

● PINKO● KIEHLS● ERMANNO SCERVINO● CHANEL● ETRO● CIR● MATTIOLI● COSTUME NATIONAL

OTTICA SPEZIA ●CESARI ●GENTE ●

PUNTO PELLE ●RIENZI ●

STONE ISLAND ●

FABRIANO ●MAJE ●

PETIT BATEAU ●

MARIO LUCCHESE ●MALÌPARMI ●

FABRIZIO BULCKAEN ● MOSCHINO ●

LEO PIZZO ●

ROY ROGERS ●

MANILA GRACE ●ROSATO ●

RUCOLINE ●

GALLERIA D’ARTE BENUCCI ●

BALDININI ●F.M. MEGNA ●ANTEPRIMA ●

ASPESI ●

ANTONACCI ●EMPORIO ARMANI ●

ANTIQUARIO ● VICINI ●

W. A POLLONI ●

KITON ●DECORARTE ●

U-BOAT ●MAC ●

HERZEL DE BACH ●VILEBREQUIN●

TIFFANY & CO. ●

HOGAN ●

P.44

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Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer Featured In This Issue

94 | GUIDE

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

Piazza di Spagna & Via Bocca di Leone

Via Vittoria Via dei Due Macelli


VIAGREGORIANA

VIADEIDUEMACELLI

VIADEIDUEMACELLI

VIA DI CAPO LE CASE

VIADIPROPAGANDA

● CHIURATO MICHELE

● EDITH B

● HOSS INTROPIA

● PINEIDER

● TAMMARO

● OTTICA BILECI

● JACKSON

● PINKO

● PELLETTERIA FLACCO

● EDISON

● RALPH

● VICTORY

● KAMINSKY

● LA BOTTEGA DI ELI

MANDARINADUCK ●

METTIMI GIÙ ●ILLY SHOP ●

59/A ●RED & BLUE ●

METTIMI GIU' ●CASTELLO D’AURIA ●

RENARD ●

LA SORGENTE ●

BATA ●

VICTORY ●

I-D ●

ROSA FISH ●

VIA DEI GRECI

VIA

BE

LS

IAN

A

VIA

BO

CC

A D

I LE

ON

E

VIA

MA

RIO

DE

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VIA VITTORIA VIA VITTORIA

VIA

DE

L B

AB

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VIA DELLA CROCE

VIA

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BA

RB

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AVIA VITTORIA

VIA VITTORIA VIA ALIBERT

VIA DELL A CROCE

VIA DELL A CROCE

VIA DELLE CARROZZE

VIA BORGOGNONA VIA BORGOGNONAV

IAB

OC

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DI

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VIA FR ATTINA

VIA FR ATTINA

VIA DI SAN SEBASTIANELLO

VIA

LE

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Piazza Di Spagna

PiazzaMignanelli

WP

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FR

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●

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CA

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●

DI C

AS

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●

ME

NIC

HIN

I ●

● FURLA

● ACQUA DI PARMA

● IWC ● GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN

● NESPRESSO

● VALENTINO

● BRUNO CALO ● CROMIA● PIER CARANTI

SERGIOROSSI ●

PURA LOPEZ ●DOLCE &

GABBANA ●

JAEGER-LECOULTRE● EFRATI ●

CASADEI ● EMILIO PUCCI ●

CHANEL ●LONGCHAMP ●

SANTONI ●MISSONI ●

MONCLER ●

DIOR ● CAMPER ●

LOEWE ●

SEPHORA ●

K-WAY ●SERMONETA ●

DI CORI ●

ROSSATI ●

ALEXANDER ●

● VERSACE

● DIESEL

Giorgio de Chirico House-Museum Keats-Shelley House

● FLEUR LUXURY LIVING

● ANITA ROMANI

● IL PESCIOLINO ROSSO

● CARNEVALI● AMINA RUBINACCI● CORRADINI

● ZINTALA

● GIORGIA R

● CHRISTOFLE

● BLUGIRL

● GENNY

● EMPORIO SAN FIRENZE

● BOTTEGA DELL’ARGENTO

● CESARE PACIOTTI

FAY ●

BERNARD DELETTREZ ●

SPAZIO MANASSEI GIOIELLI ●

ALBERT MOLAYEM ●

LA PERLA ●

VERSACE ●

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ●

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ●

TINA ●

MARNI ●

BARBA ●

WHO'S WHO ●

● BLU GIRL

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Place Of Interest

P.106

photo

: ale

ssan

dro

moggi.com

F I R E N Z E

Via del Parione, 31-33r +39 055 215722

ROMA

Via Borgognona, 13 +39 06 68808097

Via dei Coronari, 105a-106 +39 06 6834092

FIRENZE

ROMA

PARIS

NEW YORK

BEVERLY HILLS

TOKYO

HONG KONG

JAKARTA

TAIPEI

SEOUL

SYDNEY

ILBISONTE.COM

SHOPPING IS

BETTER WHEN

YOU DO IT

TAX FREE.

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SHOP | 97

Via Belsiana, Via Mario de’ Fiori & Via del Gambero

IL BISONTE

Historic Florentine company Il Bisonte has won acclaim the world over for its top-quality leather goods. The autumn/winter 2015/16 collection focuses on Il Bisonte’s timeless styles, adapted to suit the needs of its wearers. Expect shoulder and messenger bags alongside backpacks in a practical range of sizes. Visit the Via Borgognona boutique to admire the new materials and striking colour combinations, such as the vibrant Pompeii red cotton canvas and emerald green suede linings.

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VIA DELLE CARROZZE

VIA BORGOGNONA VIA BORGOGNONA

VIA DELLA VITE

VIA

LE

DE

LL

A T

RIN

ITA

DE

L M

ON

TI

VIA

GR

EG

OR

IAN

A

VIA

DE

L G

AM

BE

RO

V

IA B

EL

SIA

NA

V

IA B

EL

SIA

NA

V

IA B

EL

SIA

NA

VIA

BO

CC

A D

I LE

ON

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VIA

BO

CC

A D

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ON

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VIA

DI

PR

OP

AG

AN

DA

VIA

MA

RIO

DE

’FIO

RI V

IA M

AR

IO D

E’F

IOR

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VIA VITTORIA

VIA ALIBERT

VIA

DE

L B

AB

UIN

O

VIA DELLA CROCE

VIA DELLA CROCE

VIA CONDOTTI VIA CONDOTTI

VIA FR ATTINA VIA FR ATTINA

VIA

DI

SA

N S

EB

AS

TIA

NE

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O

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VIA

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OR

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VIA

DE

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Piazza Di Spagna

PiazzaMignanelli

V. VITTORIA GIOIELLI ●

CORNER ●

L'ANELLERIA ●

CASTIELLO ●

BORGHINI ● BELSIANA 91 ●

PICCO GIOIELLI ●

ALBERTA FERRETTI ●

NIKI NIKA ●

MALO ●

KEEP OUTLET ●

RUCOLINE ●

HAVAIANAS ●

NIA OUTLET ●

FIORENTINO ●

PANCRISIA ●LAURA

BIAGIOTTI ●

SAVOY ●

BADURA ●

IMPERATORE DI CAPRI ●

WATCH HOUSE ●

MADE IN ITALY ●

● DRUMHOR

● LUIGI BORRELLI

● ZOPPIA

● ILEANA DELLA CORTE

● I CARTAI

● HOUSE OF LEATHER● C.U.C.I.N.A.

● WOLFORD● EMANUEL ZOO● MARTINO MIDALI

● BL GIOIELLI

● LA MERCERIA ● LOPEZ WATCHES

● LA PIE VOLEUSE

● CORNER● JAJA CAMICERIA● VERTECCHI ● MONTBLANC

● COSE● TIZIANA MODIANO

● FABRIS

● GIOIELLI DI COCO’

● GREMESE

● CHOSES

● GIOIELLERIA MARONI

● MASTROLEO

● TRONCONE

● GHERARDINI

● DOMUS CALZATURE

● FGF STORE● CHIARA BLU● ANDREW'S TIES

● LA CORONA● COMPAGNIA ITALIANA ● MERCANTE DI FIORI● VANITA● I AM● TO LU● BOUTIQUE CENTRAL

BALDININI ●LUSH ●

OUTFITFABI ●BALLERINETTE ●

VIA DEL GAMBERO 20●

PITRAN ●VALAMBERT ●

FRANCESCHINI ●

IL FIOCCO ●

Il Bisonte, Via Borgognona 13, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6880 8097,ilbisonte.com * for map go to page 98

98 | GUIDE

Via Condotti, Via Frattina & Via della Croce

Via delle Carrozze Via Borgognona

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P.52 P.42P.48

P.52

P.105

P.43

P.42

P.108

P.97

P.48

P.43


100 | GUIDE

Via del Corso (North) Via del Corso (Central)

VIA DELL' OCA

VIA DEL VANTAGGIO

VIA ANTONIO CANOVA

VIA DI GESU E MARIA

VIA DI SAN GIACOMO

VIA DEI GRECI

VIA

DI

RIP

ET

TA

VIA DEI PONTEFICI

VIA DELL A CROCE

VIA VITTORIA

VIA

DE

L C

OR

SO

V

IA D

EL

CO

RS

O

VIA

DE

L C

OR

SO

V

IA D

EL

CO

RS

O

VIA DELLE FONTANELL AV

IA D

EL

BA

BU

INO

● BORSALINO

Piazza DelPopolo

● ZEISS HOUSE

BERNABEI ●KINZLY ●

LU ●RE MISHELLE ●

DA PIETRO ●DAVID HAMILTON ●

GRATIE ●

H&M ●

FOSSIL ●DESIGUAL ●

AW LAB ●

NUVOLARI ●OTTICA SOLE ●

DADADA ●

FLORENCE ●

BATA ●PIAZZA ITALIA ●

MAC ●KIKO ●

SEPHORA ●

TERRANOVA ●

NIKE ●

ADIDAS ●

REDFORD ●

GAP ●

ISHOP ●

● ALFIERI

● STEFANO RICCI

ORIGINAL● MARINES

● BOTTEGA VERDE● ANTHEA● NERO GIARDINI● DOMINIQUE● LUSH● 7 CAMICIE● REFRIGIWEAR● MURPHY & NYE

● PERUGINA● GAZELLE● COVER STORE● DIVA● BERNABEI● TATIÉ● SUBDUED● DOUBLE AGENT● FOOT LOCKER● PULL LOVE● MARCO

● LAB SHOES

● SISLEY● VANS

● ELISABETTA FRANCHI● PERLA● INGLOT● ST.MORITZ● SOLARIS● COCCINELLE

● CATENELLA● ALCOTT● PEPE JEANS● MANILA GRACE● KEY

● BERNABEI● SIMONA● L’OCCITANE● DA VINCI● FRANCESCHINI

● MONDO WIND● MARELLA● INTIMISSIMI● SHOPIE CHARLOTTE● MARC O’POLO● ET MOI

● LA 3 STORE● NAU● CHOPIN● DAVID SADDLER

Largo deiLombardi

● SARTORIA RIPENSE

V

IA D

EL

L'I

MP

RE

SA

VIA

BE

LS

IAN

A V

IA B

EL

SIA

NA

VIA

DE

L G

AM

BE

RO

VIA DELLA VITE

VIA CONDOTTI

VIA

DE

L L

EONCINO

VIA SAN CL AUDIA

VIA FR ATTINA

VIA DELLE CARROZ ZE

VIA TOMACELLI

VIA

DE

L C

OR

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V

IA D

EL

CO

RS

O

VIA

DE

L C

OR

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V

IA D

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CO

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VIA IN LUCI N A

VIA DEL PARLAMENTO VIA DELLE CONVERTITE

V

IA D

I S

AN

TA

MA

RIA

IN

VIA

VIA BORGOGNONA

GEOX ●

CAMPER ●

BRANDY & MELVILLE ●

FENDI ●

VODAFONE ●7 CAMICIE ●

SISLEY ●HAMILTON ●

CORNER ●CARPISA ●

GREISY ●HAUSMANN & CO ●

ACCESSORIZE ●PUMA ●

INTIMISSIMI ●

FRETTE ●

DIXIE ●

HOYA ●

● CALZEDONIA● DECCIO CARLO● PARFOIS● GOLDEN POINT● ASOLE E BOTTONI● TALLY WEIJL● DIESEL● GUESS

● TWIN-SET● ZARA● ESOTICA

● LIU JO

● SWAROVSKI● YAMAMAY● FALCONERI● STROILI ORO● ASOLE E BOTTONI ● NARA CAMICIE● KIKO

● LUCCHESI● TEZENIS● G.D.V.● MARC O’POLO● COLONNA● LUISA SPAGNOLI

● ESOTICA● YAMAMAY● OTTICA EFRATI● ALDO ● CARPISA

● DISNEY● GRILLI

● HOUR PASSION● DAVID MAYER NAMAN● CALZEDONIA● MANGO● SWATCH● LE GROUPE● STELLA Z● ENERGIE / MISS SIXTY

● ZARA

GalleriaAlberto

SordiPiazza Colonna


Piazza diSan Lorenzo

in Lucina


H&M ●

MA

SS

IMO

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TW

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N ●

VIA DEL CORSO AREA

P.110


102 | GUIDE

Via del Corso (South)

VIA DI PIETR A VIA DELLE MUR ATTE

VIA

DÈ

BU

RR

Ò

VIA

BE

RG

AM

AS

CH

I

VICOLO SCIARR A

VIA

DI S

AN

MA

RC

EL

LO

VIA L ATA VIA SS. APOSTOLI

VICOLO DEL PIOMBO

VIA DI M

ONTECATINI VIA MARCO MINGHETTI

VI A DEL CAR AVITA

VIA DELL'UMILTÀ

VIC

OL

O D

OR

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VIA

DE

L C

OR

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V

IA D

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IA D

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DI S

AN

TA

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IN V

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VIA

DI S

AN

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MA

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IN V

IA

PIA

ZZ

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AN

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VIA DEL PLEBISCITO VIA CESARE BATTISTI

V

IA D

EL

CO

LL

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IO R

OM

AN

O

TIM ●

DANIELLE ●

MOOD ●ROBERTO ANTICOLI ●

FELLINI ●

VATURI ●OTHERS ●

BARONE ●

CELIO ●

GUTTERIDGE ●MIRIADE ●

YAMAMAY ●

SCHEGGE ●

STEFANEL ●

● OMAI NOW OR NEVER

● STELLA ZETA

● ETY● OTTICA CANOVAI

● LA GARDENIA

● DOPPELGANGER● SAXON’S

● HAMMERSMITH

● SHOPIE CHARLOTTE

● TATIE● TEBE● LEVIATAN● SALOMÈ● LE GROUP● PERONI

● ALCOTT● CLASS● RIENZI

GalleriaAlberto

SordiPiazza Colonna

Piazza Venezia

FL

OR

SH

EIM

●P

INK

O ●

AE

RO

NA

UT

ICA

MIL

ITA

RE

●

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U T

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DI ●

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AR

BE

RA

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IAN

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TH

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● Z

AR

A

GALLERIA

ALBERTO SORDI

GALLERIA ALBERTO SORDI

Those who love both fashion and art

will appreciate Galleria Alberto Sordi.

The centrally located space is a social

and cultural meeting point as well as a

destination for discerning consumers.

Visitors will fnd a wealth of boutiques,

including prestigious Italian brands such

as Boggi, Coccinelle and Trussardi, along

with an exhibition space which regularly

stages photo exhibitions, presentations

and readings.

Galleria Alberto Sordi,

Piazza Colonna, 00187 Rome,

+39 06 6919 0769,

galleriaalbertosordi.it


104 | GUIDE


Piazza di San Silvestro, Via delle Convertite,

Via di San Claudio & Via del Tritone

Metro

VIA

DEL MORTARO V

IA P

OL

I

VIA

DI S

AN

TA

MA

RIA

IN V

IA

VIA

MA

RIO

DÈ

FIO

RI

VIA

DI P

RO

PA

GA

ND

A

VIA DELLA VITE

VIA

PO

LI

V

IA D

EL

L’IM

PR

ES

A

VIA DEI SAN CLAUDIO VIA DEL POZ ZETTO

VIA DI S

AN

T'A

ND

RE

A D

EL

LE

FR

AT

TE

VIA IN LUCINA

VIA DEL PARLAMENTO VIA DELLE CONVERTITE

VIA DELLA MERCEDE

VIA

DE

LL

A P

AN

ET

TE

RIA

L ARGO CHIGI VIA DEL TRITONE

VIA

DE

L C

OR

SO

V

IA D

EL

CO

RS

O

Piazza Colonna



GalleriaAlberto

Sordi

Piazza diSan Claudio

● G

ER

AR

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IST

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TH

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●

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CE

● BEDETTI

● BRIC’S

● MEDICI

NE

W B

AL

AN

CE

●

VIA DEL TRITONE AREA

1. Piazza Navona winter market

It’s nigh on impossible to visit the winter market in Piazza

Navona, which runs through December until early January,

and not feel at least a glimmer of seasonal cheer.

Piazza Navona, 00186 Rome for map go to page 90

2. Keats-Shelley House

The Keats-Shelley museum is well worth a visit on account

of its fascinating insight into the time that the two English

Romantic poets spent in Rome and its cosy wood-panelled

walls and book-lined shelves make it a welcome stop on

a winter’s day.

Keats-Shelley House, Piazza di Spagna 26,

00187 Rome, +39 06 678 4235,

keats-shelley-house.org for map go to page 94

3. MAXXI

Designed by star architect Zaha Hadid, Rome’s museum

of 21st century art offers a wide range of exhibitions

and retrospectives, not to mention a lovely café.

MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI Secolo,

Via Guido Reni 4A, 00196 Rome, +39 06 320 1954,

fondazionemaxxi.it for map go to page 90

TOP 3… WINTER ACTIVITIES IN ROME

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VIA DI SAN NICOLA DA TOLENTINO

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Piazza Barberini

BARBERINIFONTANA DI TREVI

BR

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GATTINONI ●

TIFFANY

Via dei Condotti is Rome’s most exclusive

shopping street, so where better for elite

American jeweller Tifany to open its new

store? The two-storey boutique, the brand’s

third in the city, opens this spring and covers

365 square metres. The interior walls feature

archival motifs that reference Tifany’s long-

standing heritage, which dates back nearly

180 years.

Tifany & Co,

Via dei Condotti 55, 00187 Rome,

tifany.com


106 | GUIDE


Via di Campo Marzio & Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina

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VIA DEGLI UFFICI DEL VICARIO

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VIA DEL LEONE

VIA BORGOGNONA

VIA CONDOTTI

VIA DEI PREFETTI

VIA DELLA MERCEDE

VIA

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VICOLO DI SAN BIAGIO

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Piazza diSan Lorenzo

in Lucina

● CAMPO MARZIO● VITTORIO BAGAGLI

● SCOTIA TEMPORARY OUTLET● CAMPO MARZIO 9

● SCOTIA ● CHASMERITALY

● BIARRITZ 1961● PAUL TAYLOR

● CENTODIECI ● ALAIN PAINE

● IL CAMICIAIO

● PERSICO● CAMPO MARZIO 70

● EMPRESA ● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND

● BORSALINO● OFFICINA SLOWEAR

● MIGLIORANZA● STURNI

A AL

OTTIC● PARLAMENTO

ALBERTO AMIDEI ● MUSA ●

BANCHETTI ●SABABA ● NEGRI ●

PAS DE ROUGE ● CAPUA CASHMERE ●

CALZATURE CAMPO MARZIO ● GOLF & GOLF ● SUPERCASA ●

ETIQUETA NEGRA ● BECCACECE ●

GINTEL ● EMPRESA ●

AMOUAGE ●

MONOCLE ●

TIE SHOP ●

MODARI ●

FOR PETS ONLY ●

HERMÈS ●

DAVIDE CENCI ●

TEBRO ●

● FG ALBERTELLI

CRUCIANI ●

BROOKS BROTHERS ● ● NIKI NIKAIOSSELLIANI R-01-IOS ●

FRANK LO ●

Antico Caffè Vitti

Café

VIA

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VIA

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Piazza diSan Lorenzo in Lucina

OB

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ESCADA

Texture is the key theme at Escada Sport for

autumn/winter 2015/16. From coats with

faux-fur details and patterned knits to pufer

jackets with overlaid embroidery and velvet

scarves, every style is tactile – as are the

evening looks, which include sleek black tops

studded with beadwork on the shoulders.

Escada & Escada Sport,

Piazza di Spagna 7-8, 00187 Rome,

+39 06 678 6995, escada.com


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Exceptionally light. Innovatively designed. Made in Europe.

Lightweight: from 2.3 kg for Spinner 55cm Made in Europe

MILANO Samsonite Store via San Pietro all’Orto 11 - via Belfi ore 6 - C.C. Fiordaliso – ROMA Trunk & Co Store via del Tritone 149


108 | GUIDE

Via Vittorio Veneto & Via Emilia

VIA

AU

RO

RA

VIA

EM

ILIA

VIA

MA

RC

HE

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LIGU

RIA

VIA SICILIA

VIA LAZIO

VIA SARDEGNA

VIA

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VIA LUDOVISI

VIA LUDOVISI

VIA BONCOMPAGNI

VIA

VIT

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● CAPUANO

● DE SIMONE

● CASUCCIO & SCALERA

● DE PASCALIS

● GOLD SKIN

● TRUCCHI

● ARSENIO

● CARRY ON JUNIOR

ZILLI ●

CAVIGLIA ●

JAEGER-LECOULTRE ●

LUISA SPAGNOLI ●

ELIZABETH ●

EXCELSIOR GALLERY ●

UBI●

GLOVES ●

VERSACE ●

ANDREW'S TIES ●

RINALDI ●

ALBERTINA ●

NIMA & RAY ●HELENE PROFUMERIA ●

KUKI MELLINI ●

CASATO GIOIELLI ●

VIA VITTORIO VENETO AREA

BOSS

For autumn/winter 2015/16, Boss menswear

is inspired by sophisticated winter holiday

destinations – think Aspen, Colorado, or St

Moritz, Switzerland. Expect padded coats

and pure wool trousers, made from highest

quality materials like merino wool, mohair

and cashmere. The colour palette is similarly

refned, sticking to shades such as granite

and glacier blue with just a hint of brick red,

realised in fabrics of the highest quality.

Boss, Via Frattina 138,

00187 Rome, +39 06 678 6173,

hugoboss.com


Apparel, Footwear & Accessories

Timberland.com

introducing the black forest collection.

made for the moderntrail

110 | GUIDE


Via della Maddalena, Piazza Capranica, Via degli Orfani, Via della Minerva, Salita de’ Crescenzi & Piazza della Rotonda

VICOLODELGOVERNOVECCHIO

VIA DEL CORALLO

VIASORA

VIADELLACHIESAN

UOVA

VICOLOSAVELLI

VICOLODELLACANCELLERIA

VIADELTEATROPACE

VIADI PARIONE

VIADELG

OVERNOVECCHIO

VIADELGOVERNOVECCHIO

CORSOVITTORIOEMANUELEII

VICOLODELFICO

VIADELLAFOSSA

V IA DEI G

ABRIE

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VICOLODELLEVACCHE

● K

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EATRICE C

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● ALEX SHOES

PENNY

● LANE

● ARSENICO

● LAKIMI

● ZENOBIA

● UTILE & FUTILE

● MORGANA

● VIVIANA

● MERCURIO

● ARLETTY

● C'EST VRAI

● WOOLSNICOTRA ●

STRATEG

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VIA DEL SEMINARIO

VIA

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VIA DELLE COPPELLE

VIA DEI PASTINI

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SALITA DE’CRESCENZI VIA

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VIA DEL POZZO

PiazzaRondanini

● R

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● PANTHEON 70

PiazzaCapranica

ALESSANDRA GIANNETTI ●DEGLI EFFETTI ●

MASSIMILIANO ARPIGA ●

● EX● DANAE● CARTOLERIA DEL PANTHEON● MBT● TOTEM● TESTONI

TH

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● CAMPER

● OTTICA VERGERIO

● A. CENCI● CASALI● GIORENMENTA ● GLOVES● KLKSTEREO ● SOUND

PiazzaDella

Rotonda

● MI & CHI

BARUFFI ● STILOFETTI●

CAMPO MARZIO 70 ●

● TERRACINA

● COSIMO COLONNA

DEGLI● EFFETTI

ARTE ORAFA ●

LE ARTIGIANEDI ROMA ●

PANTHEON

●D

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NZ

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L'AUTRE CHOSE ●DAVIDE CENCI JUNIOR ●

ANTICOLI GIOIELLI ●

Via del Governo Vecchio

Place Of Interest

PANTHEON & NAVONA AREA

HAUSMANN & CO

The illustrious history of Roman fne

jewellery house Hausmann & Co spans

over 200 years. This season, the brand has

excelled itself with a stunning collection

featuring luxurious materials such as rose

gold and titanium. As ever, the classic design

and colours make Hausmann & Co a perfect

choice for discerning clients. This cabochon

chalcedony ring with grey diamonds lends

instant glamour to any outft.

Hausmann & Co, Via del Corso 406,

00186 Rome, +39 06 687 1501,

hausmann-co.com


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Global Blue Retailer

112 | GUIDE

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Via Cola di Rienzo

VIA OR AZIO

VIA EZIO

VIA TACITO

VIA ATTILIO REGOLO VIA VIRGILIO

VIA ALESSANDRO FARNESEVIA LUCREZIO CARO

VIA MARCANTONIO COLONNA VIA CICERONE

VIA

CO

LA

DI

RIE

NZ

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● COLONNA

● VERONICA TOSCANO

● SWAROVSKI

● EMPRESA

● BIALETTI

● TRANCANELLI

● LA TAVOLA ELEGANTE● DOPPELGANGER ● THE BRIDGE● CLICHÈ

● GAJ ALDO

● 3● MILK● L'OCCITANE● CARLA G● SUB DUED● BRANDY & MELVILLE

● MANI DI FATA

● LACOSTE

● GEOX

● NIKE

● LIST

CELLUPRICA ●

PULL STOP ●TIGER ●

OTTICA TAGLIAFERRI ●MONDADORI ●

PENNY BOUTIQUE ●GIORGIO RUBEN ●

DIEGO CATALDI ●DOUBLE AGENT ●

MANILA GRACE ●VANS ●

INTIMISSIMI ●ARMONY ●TIE SHOP ●

BALLIN ●CENTODIECI ●

WIND ●THAT'S INCREDIBLE ●

CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ●

TRU TRUSSARDI ●FALCONERI ●

KIKO ●SWATCH ●

DANIELLE ● COIN EXCELSIOR ●

MERCEDES BENZ ●

DESIGN OPTICAL ●

MAESANO ●

VIA SILL A

VIA FABIO MASSIMOVIA TERE NZIO

VIA PAOLO E MILIO VIA OVIDIO

VIA PROPERZIO

VIA

CO

LA

DI

RIE

NZ

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● YAMAMAY

● RAFI RUBEN OUTLET

● RAFI RUBEN● 7 CAMICIE● ESOTICA● BRIAN CRESS● PAUL TAYLOR● OPTISSIMO● ABITART● PROFUMERIA BERTOZZINI ● CASTRONI

● CASAGRANDE● ROSAKI

● EREDI PISANÒ

● BEVERLY HILLS● OTTICA CHIESA● FURLA

● LOVABLE● THE BODY SHOP● ACCESSORIZE

● HALFON● MAMILLA● GENTE OUTLET● NAU !● RAGGI● LIU JO● PAUL BIANCO● BOGGI

● DESIGUAL

● FELLINI

● PULL LOVE

● RAGGI

● DICKINSON

TIFFANY ●

GOLDEN POINT ● DAVID MAYER NAMAN ●

TIM ●LUIS SPAGNOLI ●

CHOPIN●

BENETTON ●DANY BABY ●

STEFENAL ●

ZARA HOME ●DAVID SADDLER ●

MICHAEL KORS ●SABON ●

TWIN-SET ●FRANCESCHINI ●

COCCINELLE ● NUVOLARI ●

FABIO DE MARCO ●

TOMMY HILFIGER ●LIZA ●

FAMAR ●TRIUMPH ●

TOWER ●

GINEVRA ●WEEKEND MAX MARA ●

ANN GIGLI ●ANGELO DI NEPI ●

ASOLE E BOTTONI ●MAX MARA ●

GENTE ●FELLINI ●

COLLAGE ●TIMBERLAND ●

GUESS ●NARA CAMICIE ●

SISLEY ●PETIT BATEAU ●

ORIGINAL MARINES ●

VIA COLA DI RIENZO AREA

MIU MIU

Miuccia Prada’s autumn/winter 2015/16

collection for Miu Miu is a glorious

mishmash of colours, patterns, and even

eras. Outfts are an exercise in contrasts,

with thick houndstooth coats teamed with

patent crocodile leather miniskirts. The

efect is a joyous assault on the senses. Look

out for bags and shoes with a distinctly

1950s feel, albeit with a cartoon-like Miu

Miu makeover.

Miu Miu, Via del Babuino 91, 00187 Rome,

+39 06 3600 4884,

miumiu.com


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РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД

TRANSLATIONS

Легендарные итальянские производители канцелярских товаров достойно реагируют на вызовы современности без ущерба традиционному мастерству, – рассказывает Верити Хоган

Традиционная итальянская бумага восхищала не одно поколение ценителей изящного, начиная от герцогов Савойиских и заканчивая молодыми аристократами, отправлявшимися в путешествие «Гран-тур». Сегодня бумажная индустрия страны славится по-прежнему. Большая часть производства основывается на лучших

54: Paper Trail

Бумажный След

материалах, а техника изготовления мало чем отличается от той, что применялась в начале 18 века. Ассортимент изделий весьма широк и охватывает практически все: от кожаных ежедневников и тисненой бумаги для письма до визитных карточек и картонных ящиков.

Старейший из имеющихся в Европе бумажных документов (не считая пергаментных) хранится в государственном фонде в Палермо. Текст документа написан на арабском и греческом языке, а сам документ датируется 1109 годом. Принято полагать, что начиная с 13 века итальянские мастера освоили древний способ производства бумаги и решили поставить дело на коммерческую основу, мгновенно получив всемирное признание.

Немного компаний могут похвастаться столь же богатым опытом в сфере производства бумаги, как у Fabriano, чья история началась еще в 1264 году. Своим именем компания обязана небольшому городу Фабриано в регионе Марке. Это место стало крупным центром бумажной промышленности из-за своей близости к порту Анкона, в который регулярно прибывали грузы из стран Ближнего Востока. Бумага для рисования, производившаяся здесь в 15 столетии, получила высокую оценку самого Микеланджело. Именно в этом городе были открыты многие инновационные технологии, использующиеся по сей день, например, водяные знаки и способ грунтования бумаги с помощью желатина.

Компания Fabriano возникла на базе тех самых ремесленных мастерских и смогла сохранить популярность благодаря своей способности адаптироваться, замечать новые тенденции и реагировать на изменение потребительского спроса. Ассортимент продукции давно вышел за рамки изобразительного искусства и стал включать привычные канцелярские принадлежности, блокноты и наборы

117

для письма. Сегодня фирма также старается придерживаться экологичности производства, используя в качестве источника энергии собственную ГЭС.

В то же время продукция другой известной компании Il Papiro остается верна бесхитростной ремесленнической традиции, а каждый из 18 магазинов бренда повторяет элегантную атмосферу самого первого бутика компании, открытого во Флоренции. Ассортимент варьируется от записных книжек с «огуречным» орнаментом до кожаных ежедневников и восхитительной мраморной бумаги ручной работы. Основатели компании Франческо Джаннини и Джанни Паренти родились во Флоренции и имеют тесные связи с местной общиной ремесленников. Своей главной задачей они считают сохранение исторического шарма и первоклассного качества, бросающего вызов скоротечным тенденциям.

Pineider – один из старейших производителей бумаги. Свой первый магазин Франческо Пинейдер открыл в 1774 году и сумел снискать расположение самых взыскательных клиентов. «Наши канцелярские принадлежности уникальны и известны практически во всем мире, благодаря своему непревзойденному качеству и эксклюзивным способам печати наших мастеров-художников, – поясняет пресс-секретарь компании Линда Замбони. – Наша бумажная продукция не содержит хлора, а используемые чернила только натурального происхождения. Что касается методов, то мы применяем традиционную итальянскую технику, благодаря которой бумага приятна на ощупь и идеальна для письма».

Компания смогла успешно существовать на протяжении более чем 240 лет, сохраняя свои бесценные традиции. Конечно, не обошлось и без современных технологий. «Разумеется, новые методы и технологии повлияли на некоторые производственные

процессы, – говорит Замбони, – но окраска некоторых элементов в наших коллекциях до сих пор осуществляется мастерами вручную, как в старые добрые времена. То же относится и к картонным коробкам для хранения вещей, которые создаются вручную у нас в цехе».

Широкий ассортимент продукции Pineider, включающий буквально все, от оригинальных визитных карточек до роскошной писчей бумаги с рельефными узорами и гербами, порой привлекал немало знаменитостей. Среди клиентов компании были Лорд Байрон и Элизабет Барретт Браунинг, а также голливудские звезды, от Марлен Дитрих до Элизабет Тейлор. «Самые изысканные покупатели отдают предпочтение нашей продукции, – говорит Замбони, – и мы чрезвычайно благодарны всем, кто ценит уникальное качество канцелярских принадлежностей, рожденных в Италии». На сегодняшний день в коллекции бренда представлен широкий ряд товаров: от изящной бумаги с ручной гравировкой до современных открыток и конвертов квадратной формы. Коллекция элегантных открыток и конвертов Capri отличается оригинальными рисунками и окаймлением, нанесенным вручную с использованием исключительно натуральных пигментов, и вдобавок имеет подкладку из папирусной бумаги. Компания не прекращает развиваться. Замбони делится очередной инновацией, державшейся до недавних пор в секрете: Pineider собирается запустить новейшую технологию нанесения изображений. По ее словам, это «позволит наносить вручную рельефный каллиграфический текст».

В мире, где господствуют электронные системы коммуникации, отрадно видеть, что в Италии спрос на качественные письменные принадлежности не только не упал, но и вырос. Компании, которые прежде были нацелены лишь на представителей творческой элиты

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Valentino обрел второе дыхание – платья бренда сверкают на голливудских звездах, а в Риме открылся новый фирменный бутик, – рассказывает Харриет Куик

Порой целые города ассоциируются с модными домами и сейчас для Valentino настал именно такой момент, когда бренд может заявить свои права на столицу

66: Reinventing Romance

Переписанный Роман

и аристократов-путешественников, теперь стараются отвечать всем вызовам современного общества, не теряя при этом своего уникального шарма. Замбони поясняет: «Ручная гравировка возникла много веков назад, но время не стоит на месте, и появляется много новых техник. Лишь одно вечно останется неизменным – это точность и мастерство художника-гравировщика». fabriano.com, ilpapirofrenze.it, pineider.com

Италии. В самом центре этого легендарного города, на протяжении многих веков восхищавшего дизайнеров, архитекторов и режиссеров, Valentino открыл свой новый флагманский магазин и штаб-квартиру. Расположился магазин рядом с дворцом 16 века Palazzo Mignanelli, на площади Piazza di Spagna (Площадь Испании), история которой уходит своими корнями в глубокое прошлое. В основании площади лежит знаменитая Испанская лестница и фонтан «Баркачча», созданный скульптором Пьетро Бернини и его сыном Джованни Лоренцо Бернини.

В июле прошлого года дизайнеры Valentino Пьерпаоло Пиччоли и Мария Грация Кьюри отпраздновали успех совместного творчества и представили свою коллекцию на завораживающем шоу-показе. «Мы – новое поколение моды», – говорит Пиччоли.

Кьюри вступила на свою должность в 2008 году и, как и Пиччоли, живет недалеко от Рима вместе со своей семьей. «Большое эго чуждо нашему поколению. Мне кажется, что мы больше думаем о женщинах и стиле: мы не хотим, чтобы нас считали знаменитостями, но нам нравится работать в сфере моды, создавать шоу, идеи, музыку, атмосферу и образы. Совместное творчество очень увлекательно. Наличие двух точек зрения делает видение более интересным и разносторонним.

Несмотря на то, что все фейерверки уже отгремели и закончились модные показы, магазин, спроектированный студией David Chipperfeld Architects, обещает надолго привлечь внимание поклонников творчества Valentino. Помещение магазина занимает 1470 м.кв. и охватывает сразу три этажа. Интерьер бутика поражает своей монументальностью и изяществом: элементы отделки из дерева и кожи сочетаются с венецианской мозаикой, мраморными колоннами и точечным освещением. Отсутсвие пестрых деталей позволяет проявиться изысканной и романтичной философии современного Valentino. У мужчин теперь даже есть возможность приобрести джинсы по индивидуальному заказу.

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Последние десять лет Пиччоли и Кьюри, прежде занимавшие руководящие должности в отделах аксессуаров, прилагают все усилия, чтобы омолодить бренд и переосмыслить то очарование и страсть, которые подарили Валентино Гаравани, покинувшему компанию в 2007 году, всемирную славу.

В своем творчестве дизайнеры объединяют элементы ручной работы, современную практичность (в некоторых платьях даже есть карманы!) и безграничный полет фантазии. Все это можно увидеть в длинных, грациозных платьях из перьев, кружева и лоскутов, ставших уже своеобразной визитной карточкой; в металлических заклепках, сверкающих на вечерних туфлях; в кроссовках камуфляжной расцветки; в сумках с рельефными цветочными узорами (коллаборация с легендарным британским дизайнером Селией Биртуэлл); и, наконец, в принтах с порхающими бабочками из весенне-летней мужской коллекции.

«Мы не знаем, что случится завтра, важно то, что мы создаем сегодня, – считает Кьюри. – Нам нужно мечтать, мечты – признак оптимизма, обещание перемен, и не важно какие сложности нас могут поджидать».

Созданный Valentino образ находит поклонников по всему миру, и не только среди женщин, в чье число, кстати, входят такие знаменитости, как Кира Найтли, Алекса Чанг и Оливия Палермо. На показе коллекций прет-а-порте осень-зима 2015 в Париже Valentino затмил всех конкурентов, когда в финале на сцену в шелковых рубашках и джинсах вышли актеры Бен Стиллер и Оуэн Уилсон в образах Дерека Зуландера и Хэнсела из фильма «Образцовый самец». Капля юмора, разбавившая серьезный мир роскоши, возымела магический эффект на социальные сети (Instagram аккаунт Valentino насчитывает более трех миллионов подписчиков), откликнувшиеся на такой неожиданный анонс возвращения дуэта в сиквеле «Образцовый самец 2», релиз которого намечен на 2016 год. Съемка ряда

сцен к новому фильму проходила в ателье Valentino в Риме.

Стратегическим управлением модного дома, выкупленного в 2012 году катарской компанией Mayhoola for Investments за 700 миллионов евро, занимается генеральный директор Стефано Сасси. Он не перестает нахваливать Кьюри и Пиччоли за их ясные идеи и мастерское сочетание делового и повседневного стиля.

Рим переживает эпоху культурного возрождения: восходящие дизайнеры, такие как Марко де Винченцо и Стелла Джин, а также художники, такие как Габриэле де Сантис – звезда арт-выставки Frieze, завоевывают все больше поклонников, несмотря на экономический кризис. Это делает итальянскую столицу еще более привлекательной для посещения. А все, что вам нужно для того, чтобы окунуться в новый, романтический мир Valentino и его завораживающих коллекций – это немного фантазииvalentino.com

Салли МакИлхоун исследует необычные достопримечательности и гастрономические изыски римских кварталов Остиенсе и Тестаччо

Учитывая популярность римских достопримечательностей, можно предположить, что в городе практически не осталось мест, где бы не ступала нога туриста. К счастью, это не совсем так. Ведь мало кто слышал о не столь известных районах, как Остиенсе и Тестаччо, которые, без сомнений, скоро станут знаменитыми.

Упоминание о районе Остиенсе, расположенном на южных окраинах Рима, недавно появилось в издании New York Times. Произошло это после того, как сюда был направлен ряд крупных инвестиций, а также был открыт филиал легендарного итальянского рынка Eataly. Прогуливаясь по улочкам этого бывшего индустриального квартала столицы,

74: Of The Beaten Track

По Нехоженым Дорожкам

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невозможно не заметить волну обновления, нахлынувшую на фабричные стены в виде ярких красок граффити. Среди местных достопримечательностей отчетливо выделяется конструкция Gasometro, предназначавшаяся ранее для хранения природного газа, а теперь именуемая «современным Колизеем». Чуть севернее, в окрестностях Тестаччо, можно набрести на Ex Mattatoio – бывшую скотобойню, где сейчас расположился музей современного искусства Macro.

Поклонникам классического искусства непременно стоит посетить Капитолийский музей Centrale Montemartini в Остиенсе. Montemartini, в чьих стенах разместился музей, была первой в Риме тепловой электростанцией. В 1997 году помещение было отреставрировано и переделано в выставочный зал, где сейчас демонстрируются экспозиции трех музеев: Palazzo dei Conservatori, Museo Nouvo и Braccio Nuovo. Выставка «Машины и Боги», открытая в 1997 году, объединила в себе классические древнеримские скульптуры и старинные промышленные агрегаты. Ее ошеломительный успех помог заброшенным цехам навсегда стать неотъемлемой частью городского музейного комплекса. Музей Capitolini Centrale Montemartini стал значительной вехой в развитии района и

придании ему статуса нового культурного центра Рима. Помимо интересных художественных галерей в Остиенсе, представлен широкий выбор ресторанов, включая легендарный гастропаб Hopside, известный своей коллекцией итальянского пива. Директор Hopside Патриция де Титта объяснила причину открытия заведения в таком необычном месте желанием сделать вклад в возрождение района, популярность которого резко упала после закрытия местного оптового рынка в 1900-х годах. «Мотивацией для нашего решения послужили трудные и интересные условия работы, а также возможность принять непосредственное участие в развитии этой части Рима», – делится она. Кроме прекрасного выбора пива, Hopside предлагает шикарный ассортимент мясных и сырных деликатесов от итальянских производителей, а также бургеры и закуски в американском стиле.

К северу и востоку от Остиенсе расположился район Тестаччо, сохранивший оригинальный римский шарм и давший начало знаменитой римской кухне. Знаток европейской кулинарии компания Eating Europe предлагает гостям города четырехчасовые дегустационные туры по окрестностям Тестаччо. «В программе тура предусмотрено девять остановок

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и двенадцать дегустаций, при этом туристы смогут избежать больших толп и попробовать самую лучшую еду в Риме, – поясняет Мария Паскуале, PR-менеджер компании, – а в это время наши опытные гиды будут развлекать гостей и делиться интересными фактами из римской истории и культуры, показывая наиболее оригинальные достопримечательности столицы». Наряду с дегустацией пиццы, мороженого и трех видов местного спагетти (cacio e pepe, amatriciana и carbonara), тур включает в себя посещение рынка, где гости смогут попробовать свежеиспеченный бутерброд Bruschetta и трубочки с начинкой ricotta cannoli. Максимальная численность группы 12 человек, поэтому каждый участник вправе рассчитывать на индивидуальный подход в обслуживании. «Наши туры позволят вам увидеть Рим глазами итальянца, окунуться в атмосферу рабочего квартала Рима, где люди живут, едят и ходят по магазинам», – говорит Паскуале. Volpetti – еще один укромный уголок Рима, известный лишь среди местных жителей. Этот магазин деликатесов, открывшийся в 1973 году, всегда пользовался большой популярностью среди взыскательных работников местного рынка и скотобойни. «Они были настоящими экспертами кулинарии и уделяли особое внимание каждому ингредиенту для приготовления домашних блюд», – говорит Алессандро Вольпетти. Сегодня магазин остается важным местом закупок для местных жителей, а все мясные и сырные деликатесы продаются в вакуумной упаковке. «Тестаччо все еще напоминает небольшую деревню посреди большого города, – поясняет Вольпетти. – Помимо многочисленных следов римской истории, Тестаччо заслуженно считают одним из основных гастрономических центров Рима».

Вдоволь насытившись итальянскими деликатесами, пора переходить к изучению независимых бутиков, представленных в Тестаччо. Один из них – Andrea 925, предлагающий впечатляющую коллекцию украшений из серебра. Здесь можно

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114: When You Shop The World,

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встретить кольца в форме аудиокассеты или подковы, а также подвески в виде наушников или граммофона. Не важно, чем вы увлекаетесь, искусством, кулинарией, шоппингом или просто путешествиями по неизведанным местам, – полные прекрасного районы Остиенсе и Тестаччо несомненно подарят вам море впечатлений. museomacro.org, centralemontemartini.org, hopside.it, eatingitalyfoodtours.com, volpetti.com, andrea925.com

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意大利传统文具商顺势而变，既保留了时间赋予的

经典，又满足了现代人的需求，Verity Hogan报道

无论是萨伏伊公爵们（Dukes of Savoy）还是大旅

行（Grand Tour）时代的年轻贵族，在生活中追求

精品的人无不崇尚意大利的手工纸品。如今，意大利

的文具商依旧享誉全球。绝大多数手工纸选用最上

乘的传统原料，并采用十八世纪初传承至今几无改

变的工艺。意大利文具品种繁多，质量上乘，既有皮

面日记本、定制绸纹纸，还有名片和有盖储存盒等高

品质小配件。

欧洲已知最古老的纸质文档（与羊皮纸文档相

对）现存于巴勒莫（Palermo）的国家档案馆中。纸

上用阿拉伯语和希腊语记载了文字，其历史可以追

溯到1109年。但直到十三世纪，意大利的文具商们

才将古老的制纸工艺转化为重要的商品，意大利也

进而成为了世界闻名的造纸大国。

几乎没有哪些公司的历史传统比Fabriano还要

辉煌。Fabriano的历史可以追溯到1264年，公司的

名字源于所在地——马尔凯（Marche）的Fabriano

小镇。该地之所以能一举成为造纸中心，很大一部

分原因是因为靠近阿拉伯贸易的必经之地安科纳

（Ancona）港口。十五世纪，这里生产的画纸得到

米开朗琪罗的青睐，令他赞不绝口。小镇造纸坊当年

的先进工艺如今在造纸业已屡见不鲜，例如水印和

表层粘合剂的使用。

Fabriano从这些手工坊演变而来，顺势而变、

适应潮流，满足顾客不断变化的需求。产品种类不

仅仅拘泥于美术用品，还包括日常的办公用品、绘

图册以及精美绝伦的书写工具。如今，Fabriano还

致力于使用可再生能源，在生产中广泛使用自生的

水电力。

相比之下，Il Papiro的产品则坚守工艺传统，旗

下18家专卖店无不弥漫着传统的气息，彰显出公司

在佛罗伦萨的第一家专卖店的优雅气质。店内出售

独特精美的涡纹笔记本、皮制日记本以及令人心醉

的大理石纹手工纸。公司老板Francesco Giannini

和Gianni Parenti出生于佛罗伦萨，与城市的工匠

群体保持密切联系，确保产品不失历史魅力，历久

而弥新。

Pineider是意大利最古老的造纸商之一。自

Francesco Pineider于1774年开设第一家专卖店以

来，Pineider一直服务于高品位的顾客群体。“我们

是一家独一无二、享誉全球的文具商，纸浆质量上

乘，采用手工雕刻大师的精致印刷工艺，”Pineider的

美文翻译

54: Paper Trail

纸张的探索之路

发言人Linda Zamboni说道。“我们生产的纸品都

是无氯的，使用全天然墨水，采用传统的意大利手工

工艺，触感极佳，书写流畅。”公司传承了创始之初的

传统生产工艺，并发展壮大240余年。不过，生产中

也融入了现代工艺。Zamboni 表示，“当然，现代工

艺和技术改变了一些生产流程，但是一些系列的饰

边上色还是由手工完成，和几百年前一模一样。我们

的纸盒同样也是在工坊里手工制作的。”

从定制的名片到饰有优雅浮雕文字和纹章的

书写纸，Pineider纷繁的产品吸引了一大批坚定

的簇拥者。曾经的顾客包括如雷贯耳的大文豪拜

伦勋爵（Lord Byron）和伊丽莎白·芭蕾特·布朗

宁（Elizabeth Barrett Browning），以及玛琳·

黛德丽（Marlene Dietrich）和伊丽莎白·泰勒

（Elizabeth Taylor）等好莱坞影星。Zamboni表

示：“我们的顾客品味十分高雅。我们忠心感谢那些

欣赏意大利制造文具独一无二品质的顾客。”

如今，公司经营的文具种类丰富，既包括为特殊

场合精心打造的产品——饰有手工雕刻手写字母的

纸张、饰以印刷彩边的时尚方形卡片和信封——也

有卡布里岛系列（Capri），即天然颜料手工饰边的

纸品和与之相配、衬有纸巾的信封。公司从未停止推

陈出新的脚步。Zamboni女士为我们披露此前不为

人知的消息：Pineider即将推出一项全新的雕刻技

术。她表示，“这项工艺能够运用手写文字手工雕刻

模型打造浮雕印刷效果。”

现代社会电子产品在沟通交流中的作用愈发举

足轻重，而振奋人心的是，意大利国内对高品质文具

的需求非但没有每况愈下，反而蒸蒸日上。那些曾经

为文学精英和贵族冒险家提供优等文具的公司在保

持优秀传统的同时，也为现代顾客推出了众多新的

产品。正如Zamboni所说的那样，“手工雕刻可以追

溯到数千年前，但毫无疑问，如今我们已经融入了

新的技术。即便如此，雕刻大师的手艺还是和以前

一样精湛。”

fabriano.com, ilpapirofrenze.it, pineider.com

123

从邀请好莱坞明星参加走秀，到在罗马开设新旗舰

店，Valentino重获新生。Harriet Quick报道

有的时候，一整座城市只属于一个时装品牌；而在当

下，Valentino已成为了罗马的新主人。这是一座几百

年来让无数设计师、建筑家、电影工作者和创意者

们为之心醉神迷的传奇城市，而Valentino具有重大

意义的全新旗舰店及品牌设计总部就座落在罗马西

班牙广场（Piazza di Spagna），紧邻建于16世纪的

Palazzo Mignanelli。这座广场及其著名的西班牙

阶梯（Spanish Steps）充满了历史的沧桑感，而台阶

下方的破船喷泉（La Fontana della Barcaccia）则

出自雕刻名家彼得·贝尼尼（Pietro Bernini）和其

子济安·贝尼尼（Gian Lorenzo Bernini）之手。

去年七月，Valentino的两位创意总监Pierpaolo

Piccioli与Maria Grazia Chiuri用一场梦幻派对庆

祝了他们的领导功绩，并在会上展示了品牌服装设

计系列。“我们是时尚界的第二代人，”Piccioli说。

他和Chiuri与各自的家人居住在罗马附近，两人于

2008年走马上任。“那些庞大的自我意识是另一个

年代的东西。我认为我们这一代人更多地在思考女

性与风格：我们自己并无意成为名人，但我们热爱时

装的工作，热爱打造展出，热爱其中的信息、音乐、

空间和女孩们。携手致力于此是一件很令人陶醉的

事情。看待事物的两种角度也让我们眼前的美景更

加有趣，或许也更加复杂了。”

尽管那场派对的绚丽烟花和精彩走秀已经过

去了，但由建筑师David Chipperfeld操刀设计

的这间门店则继续绽放迷人魅力。旗舰店共三层

楼，1470平方米的空间以灰色威尼斯水磨石、木材

和皮革装点，店内饰有磨光立柱和令人赞叹的水珠

状灯饰，彰显了非凡风度与极致优雅的完美结合。

空阔的环境让现代Valentino品牌冷酷而浪漫的特

质发挥得淋漓尽致。男士顾客甚至可以在此购买定

制牛仔裤。

在过去十年中，原为品牌配饰系列总监

的Piccioli和Chiuri不断致力于让Valentino

焕发新的活力，重新诠释让创始人Valentino

Garavani（2007年退休）之名响彻时尚界的魅力

与热情。

他们选择的道路，是在手工技艺、现代穿着性

能（有些连衣裙甚至配有口袋！）和天马行空的梦幻

态度之中寻求微妙的平衡。品牌引以为标志的诗意

长羽毛、饰带和拼缀连衣裙，点缀在畅销款高跟鞋

上的金属铆钉，酷味十足的迷彩运动鞋和3D刺绣花

卉手包（与印花传奇Celia Birtwell联手打造），以

及飞扬在春夏季男装单品上的蝴蝶图案，无不体现


重塑浪漫

了这一风格。

“我们不知道明天会发生什么，但对现在而言，

重要的是创造一种风格，”Chiuri说。“我们需要梦

想——梦想展现出乐观，展现出改变的希望，不论

那改变有多困难。”

这样的想象正在赢得全世界粉丝的关注；不

仅是女性——在Valentino的众多著名簇拥者中，

就有凯拉·奈特利（Keira Knightley）、艾里珊·

钟（Alexa Chung）和奥莉维亚·巴勒莫（Olivia

Palermo）——男性也一样。在巴黎时装周2015年

秋冬季成衣秀场中，演员本·斯蒂勒（Ben Stiller）

和欧文·威尔逊（Owen Wilson）扮演着他们在《

超级名模》（Zoolander）中的角色祖兰德（Derek

Zoolander）和汉斯（Hansel），身着蓝色丝绸和牛

仔布压轴登场，让Valentino出尽风头。事实证明，

将诙谐趣味注入严肃的奢侈品世界这一创举是极具

感染力的。这个经典的瞬间在社交网络上形成了密

集的弹幕（Valentino在Instagram上拥有超过300

万名关注者），同时也闪耀地宣告了威尔逊与斯蒂勒

将回归将于2016年初上映的《超级名模2》。这部影

片中的不少场景正是在Valentino罗马工作室内取

景拍摄。

幕后，在新东家Mayhoola for Investments

的授意下，首席执行官Stefano Sassi正着手为

Valentino打造一个生机蓬勃的未来。2012年，卡

塔尔投资基金Mayhoola for Investments以7亿

欧元的高价收购Valentino。Sassi赞扬了Chiuri和

Piccioli的明晰远见及其“非正式与正式”两种风格

的巧妙融合。

罗马正在经历一次文化复兴，Marco de

Vincenzo和Stella Jean等设计师，以及像Frieze画

廊之星Gabriele de Santis这样的画家，都在经济

困难时期的大漩涡之中冉冉升起。这也让罗马古城

散发出更多迷人的魅力，吸引着各地游客。您只需

拿出一点点时间来做一场白日里的美梦，即可沉浸

到Valentino的全新世界中，体验设计杰作的奇妙

魔力。

valentino.comPH

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globalblue.com

124

罗马的Ostiense区和Testaccio区风光独特，美食荟

萃，Sally McIlhone带您领略

来到像罗马一样游人如织、频频见于摄影作品的城

市，游客自然而然会认为当地已无世外桃源，实则不

然。我们欣喜地发现，罗马两大不为人知的街区——

Ostiense区和Testaccio区还没有出现熙熙攘攘的

游客，而现在也正是造访这两个地方的绝佳时机。

Ostiense区位于罗马的南面，该地区获得重

新投资后，意大利美食百货商店Eataly的全球最

大分店落户于此，近期更是成为了《纽约时报》

的报道对象。漫步于这个曾经的工业中心，您一

定不会错过那些被绚丽街头艺术赋予鲜活生命

的古老厂房。沿途尽是该地区的历史地标建筑，

例如储气罐（Gasometro），即当地人口中的“现

代斗兽场”（modern Colosseum）。而在偏北

一点的Testaccio区，前屠宰场（Ex Mattatoio）

现在成了罗马现代艺术美术馆（Museo d’Arte

Contemporanea Roma）的所在地。徒步探索这两

个街区将为您带来非同寻常的都市之旅体验；这亦


不走寻常路

是您独辟蹊径的最佳选择。

钟情于古典艺术的游客一定不能错过卡比托

利欧蒙特马尔蒂尼中心博物馆（Musei Capitolini

Centrale Montemartini）。原址乔万尼蒙特

马尔蒂尼热电中心（Giovanni Montemartini

Thermoelectric Centre）是罗马第一家公共发电

厂。1997年，厂房被改建为一间与众不同的展览室，

用来陈列卡比托利欧博物馆保守宫（Palazzo dei

Conservatori museum）、新宫（Museo Nouvo）

以及新翼陈列室（Braccio Nuovo）的雕塑。1997

年机器与神像展览（Machines and the Gods

exhibition）中的经典石像与古老机器交相辉映，令

人叹为观止。由于好评如潮，这块前身为工厂的场所

便被纳入市博物馆系统。卡比托利欧蒙特马尔蒂尼

中心博物馆一跃成为该地区又一个地标建筑，帮助

该地区变身为罗马的文化新中心。

除了极负盛名的艺术展览馆，Ostiense区还提

供各式各样的就餐选择，包括以意大利精酿啤酒

著称、屡获殊荣的美食酒吧Hopside。Hopside的

总经理Patrizia de Titta解释说，公司希望能够为

Ostiense地区的复苏崛起做出贡献，该地区自上世

纪九十年代罗马关闭批发市场后就一直一蹶不振。

她表示：“选择在Ostiense地区开店，是因为我们

渴望投身于一个充满挑战的环境，并在罗马这一区

域的新发展中起到领军作用。”Hopside地板以实

木铺就，其菜单上除了啤酒之外，还供应一系列令

人垂涎欲滴的意大利肉制品和芝士、汉堡以及许多

美式菜肴。

Ostiense 区的东北处便是Testaccio街区，这

是罗马最初的美食家乐园，也是罗马美食（cucina

romana）的发源地。欧洲美食品味之旅（Eating

Europe）包含四小时的徒步游览“品味Testaccio”

之行。“这趟旅行包含九站十二道地道意大利美

食的品尝。游客可以远离尘嚣，品味到罗马美食的

精髓。”旅行公司公共关系和社交媒体经理Maria

Pasquale说道：“一路上，经验丰富的导游会与您

分享生动有趣、信息丰富的小故事，让您深入了解罗

马的文化和历史，带您探索城市最不同寻常的标志

性景点。”

除了能品尝到披萨、意大利冰激凌（gelato）和

三道当地特色意面（cacio e pepe、amatriciana和

carbonara）之外,游客还有机会参观当地的集市，品

尝新鲜的意式特色烤面包（bruschetta）和乳清干

酪酥卷（ricotta cannoli）。每团最多仅十二人，保

证尊享私人服务。“我们的旅游团让您能够在罗马

中产阶级汇集的街区，像当地人一样生活、饮食和购

物，”Pasquale说道。

您还可以在Volpetti体验罗马生活的魅力。这家

熟食和专业食品店于1973年开业，当时的目标顾客

是当地集市和屠宰场眼光挑剔的雇员。Alessandro

125

Volpetti 表示：“他们是真正的美食专家，因为他们

的职责就是为餐桌寻找可靠的原材料。”如今，该店

仍为当地人的餐桌源源不断地输送食材，并为游客

提供真空包装的风味肉类和奶酪。“Testaccio依旧

像一座大城市里的小村庄，”Volpetti解释说，“穿越

罗马历史的重重遗迹，您来到Testaccio，这里也被

公认为罗马的美食中心之一。”

大快朵颐之后，您一定要去看看Testaccio区鳞

次栉比的独立精品店。Andrea 925是其中的一大

亮点。店内银饰琳琅满目，磁带和幸运马蹄铁形状

的戒指，耳机和录音机形状的坠饰令人爱不释手，

任您选购。

无论您是艺术爱好者、美食家，是喜欢探索时尚

精品店，或是仅仅想一窥真实的罗马生活，Ostiense

区和Testaccio区一定值得您一探究竟，为您带来意

外的惊喜。

museomacro.org,

centralemontemartini.org, hopside.it,

eatingitalyfoodtours.com,

volpetti.com, andrea925.com

当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时，

环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free

Shopping）为您节约购物开销。

每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global

Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只

是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联

（Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税

过程：

1. 消费购物

无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格

（Global Blue Tax Free Form）。

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当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台

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收取现金退税手续费。


Shop Tax Free

日本語翻訳

54: Paper Trail

紙の伝統を訪ねて

イタリアの伝統的文房具メーカーは、長年愛されて

きた魅力を失うことなく進化を遂げ、現代の需要に

応えている。ヴェリティ・ホーガンが訪ねた。

歴代サヴォイ公からグランドツアーでイタリアを訪

れた若き貴族まで、上質を知る目の肥えた人々は昔

から、イタリアの手作り紙を珍重してきた。この国の

文房具は今でも高い評判を誇っている。その多くは

伝統的な材料を用いて、18世紀初頭からほとんど

変わらない技法で作られる。革表紙の日記帳から

パーソナライズされた型押し入り便箋、蓋つきの収

納ボックスまで幅広く揃った商品は、どれも最高の

品質だ。ヨーロッパ最古といわれる紙製（羊皮紙で

なく）の文書は、パレルモの公文書館に収蔵されて

いる。アラビア語とギリシャ語で書かれたその文書

は、1109年に書かれたものだ。しかし、イタリアの文

房具メーカーが古代の製紙手法を取り入れて紙を

主力商品へと変貌させ、紙生産で世に知られるよう

になったのは13世紀になってからというのが通説で

ある。

由緒正しいといえば、1264年創業のファブリア

ーノの右に出るメーカーはおそらくないだろう。同社

の社名は、本拠とするマルケ州にある小さな町ファ

globalblue.com

126

ブリアーノに由来する。この町が製紙業の中心地と

して栄えたのは、アラビアとの貿易ルートに特に強

いつながりを持つ港町アンコーナが近いことが大き

な理由だ。15世紀には、ここで作られた高級アート

紙をミケランジェロが使い、大そう気に入ったといわ

れている。この町の工房では、透かしやゼラチンを

使った紙表面の糊付けなど、現代製紙業界では当た

り前になった技法が編み出された。

ファブリアーノ社はそうした職人の工房から発

展した会社だが、流行に反応し消費者の需要の変

化に合わせてきた順応力のおかげで、今も健在だ。

品揃えは高級アート紙だけでなく、今や日常的なオ

フィス用品や画用紙帳、美しく陳列された便箋セッ

トまで幅広い。現在、同社では再生可能エネルギー

にも取り組んでおり、自家水力発電を生産に広く利

用している。

一方、イル・パピロの品揃えは伝統的な職人技

に根差し、同社の18店舗はいずれも、フィレンツェ

に出した第一号店の優雅な雰囲気を反映した古風

なデザインになっている。商品はペイズリープリント

のノートや革綴じの日記帳、美しい手作りのマーブ

ル紙など。同社オーナーのフランチェスコ・ジャンニ

ーニとジャンニ・パレンティはフィレンツェ生まれで、

この都市の職人コミュニティとは密接なつながりが

ある。そのおかげで、同社の製品は今でも昔からの

魅力を保ち、一時的な流行に左右されない時代を

超えた品質を誇っているのだ。

ピネイダーはイタリア最古の紙メーカーの一つ

で、フランチェスコ・ピネイダーが1774年に一号店を

オープンして以来、その歴史にふさわしい目の肥え

た得意客に商品を提供してきた。「当社の文房具は

独特で、比類ない紙質と当社の熟練手彫り職人なら

ではの印刷技術で世界的に知られています」と説明

するのは、同社広報担当者のリンダ・ザンボーニだ。

「当社の紙は全て無塩素漂白紙で、インクも天然で

す。また、伝統的なイタリアの職人技が活きている

ため、手触りがよく、書き心地も満点です。」

ピネイダーは240年以上も生き残り、繁栄して

きた。それは、最初に財を築いた時と同じように、

伝統的な生産手法を守り通してきたからだ。と言っ

ても、近代的な技法を取り入れていないわけではな

い。ザンボーニいわく、「もちろん、新しい技法や技

術によって変わった工程もありますが、当社のコレ

クションの一部にある罫線の色付けは昔ながらの

手作業ですし、紙箱も同様で自社で手作りしていま

す。」

誂えの名刺からエレガントな型押し文字や紋章

の入った便箋まで、ピネイダーは幅広い品揃えで昔

から熱烈なファンが多い。過去の愛好者にはバイロ

ン卿、エリザベス・バレット・ブラウニングといった文


ロマンスを再び

ハリウッドスターがキャットウォークに登場したり、ロ

ーマに新しく旗艦店をオープンさせたりと、ヴァレン

ティノの復活がめざましい。ハリエット・クイックがレ

ポートする。

一社のファッションハウスが都市を支配する時があ

る。ヴァレンティノは今まさに、ローマを我がものと呼

べるほどの存在感を誇示している。デザイナーや建

築家、映画制作者、クリエイターを数世紀にわたっ

て魅了し続けてきたこの名高い都市に、ヴァレンティ

ノの荘厳な旗艦店と本社がある。スペイン広場の16

世紀建築パラッツォ・ミニャネッリの隣だ。この広場

と有名なスペイン階段には歴史の香りが溢れ、階段

下の小舟の噴水はピエトロ・ベルニーニとその息子

のジャン・ロレンツォ・ベルニーニの作品だ。

昨年7月、ヴァレンティノの共同クリエイティブ・

ディレクター、ピエルパオロ・ピッチョーリとマリア・

グラツィア・キウリは、二人で舵をとってきたブランド

の成功を祝って魅惑的なパーティを開き、クチュー

学界の大物や、マレーネ・ディートリッヒ、エリザベ

ス・テイラーといったハリウッドスターもいる。「今も

世界一流の粋人にご愛顧いただいています。当社の

イタリア製文房具ならではの品質をわかって下さる

皆様に、本当に感謝しています。」　

現在、同社では特別な用途のために美しく手作

りした品（筆記体の文字を手彫りし型押しした紙、

色罫を印刷したモダンな四角形のカードや封筒）か

ら、天然顔料で罫線を手書きした便箋と揃いの手

作り薄葉紙の裏地が付いた封筒が特徴のカプリコ

レクションまで、幅広い商品を提供している。ピネイ

ダーは常に進化している。ザンボーニがこれまで秘

密だった新情報を教えてくれた。同社が新しい型押

し技法をまもなく開始するというのだ。「カリグラフ

ィーを手彫りした型で、エンボス印刷したのと同じ

効果がある」という。

通信が電子媒体で行われることが増えている

中で、イタリアの高品質文房具の需要が減るどころ

か増えているのは嬉しい限りだ。かつて文豪や貴族

冒険家の愛用品を作ったこれらの会社は、それぞれ

ルーツを大事にしつつ開発に励み、現代人にとって

も魅力的な商品を生み出してきた。ザンボーニによ

れば、「手彫り型押しの歴史は何世紀も前に遡りま

すが、もちろん今では新しい技術が関わってきてい

ます。それでも、熟練手彫り職人の精密さは昔と変

わりません。」

fabriano.com、ilpapirofirenze.it、pineider.com

127

二人が選んだ道は、職人の技巧、現代人にとっ

ての着やすさ（ドレスにポケットをつけることも！）

、夢のようなさりげなさの微妙なバランス。それは、

このコンビのトレードマークともなった羽根やレー

ス、パッチワークを配したロマンチックなロングドレ

スや、ベストセラーのスタッド付きパンプス、粋な迷

彩柄スニーカー、立体的な花の刺繍を施したハンド

バッグ（プリントで有名なテキスタイルデザイナー、

セリア・バートウェルとのコラボレーション作品）、春

夏のメンズで登場した蝶のプリントと、随所に見ら

れる。

「明日は何が起こるかわからない。だから、今

のスタイルを創ることが大事」だとキウリはいう。「そ

れと夢が必要です。夢は楽観であり、変化の約束で

す。変わる過程がいかに難しくてもね。」

このイメージが世界中でファンを獲得してい

る。女性ファン（キーラ・ナイトレイ、アレクサ・チャ

ン、オリヴィア・パレルモなど、ヴァレンティノの愛好

者は数多い）はもちろん、男性もひきつけているの

だ。パリの2015年秋冬コレクションでは、ヴァレン

ティノのショーのフィナーレに「ズーランダー」のデレ

ク・ズーランダーとハンセルに扮した俳優のベン・ス

ティラーとオーウェン・ウィルソンが登場し、青色の

シルクとデニムをまとってキャットウォークを闊歩し

た。高級ファッションの真剣な世界にウィットを持ち

込んだこの仕掛けは瞬く間に話題に。ソーシャルメ

ディアを席巻し（ヴァレンティノのインスタグラムフォ

ロワーは300万人を超えている）、同時にウィルソン

とスティラーの新作「ズーランダー2」（2016年初頭

公開予定）の巧みな宣伝になった。この映画では、

ローマにあるヴァレンティノのアトリエで撮影したシ

ーンも見られる。

一方、舞台裏では同社CEOのステファノ・サッ

シが、新オーナー（カタールを本拠とする投資ファ

ンドのメイフーラ・フォー・インベストメント、2012

年に推定7億ユーロでヴァレンティノを取得）のもと

に、ブランドの今後の飛躍に向けて動いている。サ

ッシは、キウリとピッチョーリのビジョンの明確さと、

「インフォーマルとフォーマル」を巧みにミックスさせ

る手腕を称えている。

ローマでは、厳しい経済環境のなかでマルコ・

デ・ヴィンチェンツォ、ステラ・ジーンといった新進デ

ザイナーや、ロンドンのフリーズ・アートフェアで一躍

有名になったガブリエレ・デ・サンティスなどのアー

ティストが台頭して、文化ルネッサンスが起こりつつ

あり、訪れる者にとってますますエキサイティングな

都市になっている。新たな「ヴァレンティノワールド」

に身を浸し、そのデザインの魔法に触れるには、ほ

んの少し夢見る時間があればいい。

valentino.com

ルコレクションを披露した。ピッチョーリは「僕らは

ファッションの第二世代」だという。2008年に就任

した二人は共に、それぞれの家族とローマ近郊に住

む。「強烈な自己主張は昔の話。今の世代は、女性

とスタイルについてもっと深く考えるんじゃないかな

と思います。自分たちが有名人になりたいとは思い

ません。ただファッションの仕事を愛し、ショーを

創造することが好きなんです。メッセージ、音楽、空

間、女性たち、…その全てがね。そして、それを二人

で一緒にできるというのが素晴らしい。二つの観点

を持つから、僕らのビジョンは魅力的で、おそらくも

っと陰影のあるものになるんだと思います。」

あのパーティの華々しい花火やキャットウォー

クショーは一時的なものだが、建築家デヴィッド・チ

ッパーフィールドがデザインした旗艦店はきっと長く

人々を魅了し続けるだろう。三階建て、総面積1,470

㎡の店内は、グレーのベネチアンテラゾに木材、皮

を使い、磨き上げた柱や印象的な滴型の吊り照明

が醸し出す雰囲気は、強烈な存在感と品位のえもい

われぬ組み合わせが見事だ。無駄を削ぎ落とした

環境だからこそ、現代ヴァレンティノブランドのクー

ルでロマンチックな本質が映える。同店のメンズコ

ーナーでは、ジーンズの誂えもできる。

かつては同ブランドのアクセサリー部門を仕切

っていたピッチョーリとキウリは、この10年でヴァレ

ンティノを若返らせた。2007年に引退した創業者の

ヴァレンティノ・ガラヴァーニを知らぬ者のないほど

有名にした魅惑と情熱を、新たに解釈し直してみせ

たのだ。

PH

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GO

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globalblue.com

128


寄り道のススメ

ローマのオスティエンセ地区とテスタッチョ地区に

は、見慣れない風景や独特の味が一杯だ。サリー・

マキルホーンが探検した。

ローマのように人気が高く観光名所も写真でお馴

染みの都市は、隠れた見どころなどもう無いだろうと

いう印象を持たれても無理はない。嬉しいことに、こ

の都市の中でもあまり知られていない二つの地区、

オスティエンセとテスタッチョはお決まりの観光ルー

トにはまだ入っていない。訪れるなら今がチャンス

だ。

ローマの南部にあるオスティエンセは、地区再

開発への投資が行われ、世界最大のイタリアグルメ

のデパート「イータリー（Eataly）」が支店を出した

ことから、最近ニューヨーク・タイムズ紙で取り上げ

られた。元々は工業の中心地であったこの地区を歩

くと、明るい色彩のストリートアートで新しい息吹を

吹き込まれた古い工場があちこちにある。また、地

元で「近代のコロッセオ」とあだ名されるガゾメトロ

（ガスタンク）など、この地区の昔をしのばせるラン

ドマークも。一方、北へ少し歩いたところにあるテス

タッチョ地区には、元マッタトイオ（屠殺場）が現在

はMACRO（ローマ現代美術館）になっている。こ

れらの地区を徒歩で見て回るのは、ちょっと変わっ

たアーバン・サファリ探検のようで、誰もがたどるル

ートを離れてブラブラするのにお誂え向きだ。

古典美術が好みなら、オスティエンセのモンテ

マルティーニ美術館は外せない。かつてはジョヴァ

ンニ・モンテマルティーニ熱電センターというローマ

初の公営発電所だった建物が、1997年に改造され

てユニークな展示場になり、コンセルヴァトーリ美

術館、ムゼオ・ヌオーヴォ（新美術館）、ブラッチョ・

ヌオーヴォ（新回廊）が所蔵する彫刻の展示に使わ

れた。1997年の「マシーン＆ゴッド」展では古典的

な石像とアンティークの機械を並置して観る者の度

肝を抜き、それが大評判を博したおかげで市営美

術館の仲間入りをした。この美術館も、この地区が

ローマの新しい文化の中心地へと変貌するのに一役

買ったランドマークの一つだ。

PH

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129

とびきりの食材をあれこれ仕入れたら、テスタ

ッチョにある様々な独立系店舗もチェックしたい。

中でもお奨めはアンドレア925で、カセットテープ型

のリングや幸運を呼ぶ馬蹄型のリング、ヘッドフォン

やレコードプレーヤーの形をしたペンダントなど、一

味違うシルバージュエリーを置いている。

アート愛好家もグルメも、新しいブティックを探

すのが好きな人も、ただ単にローマ市民の暮らしぶ

りを見てみたいという人も、オスティエンセとテスタッ

チョは訪ねてみる価値大ありだ。

museomacro.org、

centralemontemartini.org、

hopside.it、eatingitalyfoodtours.com、

volpetti.com、andrea925.com


Shop Tax Free

海外でのお買い物が免税に

グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利

用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街

にある27万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得

になります。

年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルー

の免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。

手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探し

ます。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル・

ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップ

を踏むだけです。

1. お買い物

お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免

税書類（タックスフリー・フォーム）を受け取ってくだ

さい。

2.還付請求

ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関で免税書類にス

タンプを押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーの

還付事務所で払い戻しを受けます。

お問い合わせ：

[email protected]

+421 232 111 111

€154.94以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最

高15.5％の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い

戻し額は、付加価値税（VAT）合計から事務手数

料を差し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承

ください。一部の空港で現金での即時払い戻しをご

希望の場合は、取り扱い手数料が免税書類ごとに

課されます。

オスティエンセで評判なのはアートギャラリーだ

けではなく、食事処もバラエティに富んでいる。賞を

受賞したガストロパブの「ホップサイド」もその一つ

で、木張りの店内ではイタリアの地ビールが楽しめ

る。ホップサイドの総支配人パトリツィア・デ・ティッ

タいわく、同社は1990年代にローマの卸売市場が

閉場してから衰退していたオスティエンセの再生に

貢献したいと考えたのだという。「オスティエンセに

開店することを決めたのは、刺激的な環境に囲まれ

ていたいという気持ちと、この地区の再開発を引っ

張りたいという気持ちからでした。」ホップサイドで

はビールの他に、うるわしきイタリアの肉料理やチー

ズがメニューに並び、バーガーなどアメリカ風の食

べ物もある。

オスティエンセのすぐ北東に位置するテスタッチ

ョ地区は、ローマの食い倒れの元祖で、「クチーナ・

ロマーナ（ローマ料理）」の発祥の地だ。フードツ

アーを企画提供す4るイーティング・ヨーロッパ社で

は、この地区を巡る時間の「テイスト・オブ・テスタッ

チョ」ウォーキングツアーを実施している。「このツ

アーはまさしく地元の食品店9軒を巡って12種の食

品を試食していただくのが目玉で、お客様には人混

みを離れてローマ随一の美味をお楽しみいただけま

す」と、同社のPR・ソーシャルメディアマネジャーの

マリア・パスクワーレはいう。「その道すがら、当社

の経験豊かなガイドが、ローマの隠れたランドマー

クにご案内しながらローマの文化や歴史について解

説し、ストーリーを語って、楽しくてためになる体験

をお届けします。」

ピザやジェラート、地元のパスタ3種（カチオ・

エ・ペペ、アマトリチャーナ、カルボナーラ）の他、

地元の市場で新鮮なブルスケッタやリコッタ・カノー

リの試食もできる。各ツアーの催行人数は12名まで

で、パーソナルなサービスが受けられること請け合

いだ。「当社のツアーでは、世界一流の都市ローマ

の人々が暮らし、食べ、買い物する地区を、地元民

感覚で体験していただけます」と、パスクワーレ。

ローマ市民の暮らしが垣間見えるもう一つの場

所がヴォルペッティだ。このデリカテッセン兼専門

食材店は1973年の創業で、以前は地元の市場や屠

殺場で働く食の目利きが得意客だった。「彼らは本

物の食のエキスパートでね、家で作る料理にぴった

りの食材をいつも探してたよ」というのはアレッサン

ドロ・ヴォルペッティ。この店は今でも地元民に欠か

せない食材店だが、観光客用に特選の食肉やチー

ズを真空パックしてくれる。「テスタッチョは大都市

にありながら、相変わらず小さな村みたいなんだ」と

ヴォルペッティはいう。「ここにはローマの歴史を思

い起こさせるものがたくさんあるけど、『ローマの台

所』の一つでもあるんだよ。」

130 | PRODUC TS


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