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SW
ITZ
ER
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ND
Lu
xu
ry E
ditio
n A
utu
mn
/Win
ter 2015
/16
SWITZERLAND | ШВЕЙЦАРИЯ | 瑞士 | سويسا
Page 30
PEAK PERFORMANCE:
Switzerland’s writing implements
scale the heights
www.airport-dutyfreeshopping.com
WELCOMES YOU TO
ZURICH & GENEVA
AIRPORTS
AT THE HEART OF EVERY JOURNEY.
Emma Cheevers
EDITOR’S LETTER
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Welcome to Switzerland
Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you
discover the very best of this innovative country. Switzerland has
much to ofer, as our guide on page 40 reveals. Readers who appreciate
pioneering design will enjoy our feature on writing implements (page
30), and in this issue we also explore some of Switzerland’s most
applauded hotel restaurants (page 36).
SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader
that helps you save money when shopping in Switzerland. We publish
guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international
insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top
global brands you’ll fnd in Switzerland. For the very latest information,
visit globalblue.com.
Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card for the
simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand,
and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit
globalblue.com/join.
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GENÈVE | 116 Rue du Rhone | Tel. +41 22 700.99.80
ZURICH | UraniaStrasse 11 | Tel. +41 43 497.21.30
CRANS S/SIERRE | Rue du Prado | Tel. +41 27 481.16.14
CONTRIBUTORS
12
ILL
US
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AT
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: MIK
E L
EM
AN
SK
I
globalblue.com
Theresa Harold
SHOP’s fashion and news
assistant Theresa Harold
studied creative writing at
Bath Spa University. Since
then, she has worked in
Hong Kong, Macau and
London, covering the latest in
luxury living.
Josh Sims
Freelance journalist and
editor Josh Sims contributes to
publications that include the
Financial Times, Independent,
Observer, Wallpaper and
Esquire. His latest book is
Icons of Women’s Style,
published in April 2015.
Mike Lemanski
Mike Lemanski’s skill at
creating striking graphic
imagery made him the perfect
choice of cover illustrator for
this season’s edition of SHOP
Switzerland. His design shows
a Swiss mountain range
created out of pencils and
pens, inspired by our feature
on Switzerland’s top stationery
brands – see page 30. Mike’s
other clients include the New
York Times, the Wall Street
Journal, Lacoste, Toyota and
Condé Nast.
Explore our archive of cover
illustrations at
globalblue.com/covers.
Kiranjeet Kaur
Fashion communication
graduate Kiranjeet Kaur
moved to London to pursue
a career in artworking and
design. Kiranjeet loves
cooking and is an avid fan of
pop culture, hip-hop music
and painting.
14
SHOP FLOOR
PU BL I SH I NG
Publisher
James Morris
Online managing editor
Kirsty Welsh
Online production assistant
Marina Nelson
Online writer
Emily Scrivener
Chinese editor
Yuan Fang
Associate Chinese editor
Junjie Dou
Chinese contributing editor
Qingya He
Chinese editorial assistants
Yunhan Fang, Yangzi Liang
Chinese translators
Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi, Aiyang Zou
Russian editor
Anastasia Nemchenok
Russian editorial assistant
Karina Starobina
Russian translators
Diana Fitkulina, Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov
Japanese editor
Kyoko Nishimoto
Dane Consultancy
Commercial editor
Gemma Latham
Commercial artworking assistant
Samantha Junak
Commercial artworking intern
Kiranjeet Kaur
AVP business development manager
Patrice Janet
Head of digital
Eamonn Leacy
Digital campaign manager
Nina Kobalia
Digital marketing assistant
Anastasia Budieva
Product manager
Devesh Sankadecha
Production assistant
Sammy Ha
Developer
Mohammed Hakki
Digital production manager
Andrew Lugton
Advertising and partnership manager
Riccardo Canini
Distribution and partnerships manager
Lara Osuna
Chief executive officer
Jacques Stern
SHOP is published by Global Blue
Group headquarters
Global Blue SA,Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland
Corporate registration number
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2015 Global Blue
E DI TOR I A L
Editor-in-chief
Emma Cheevers
Managing editor/
acting features editor
Sally McIlhone
Cover illustrator
Mike Lemanski
Contributors
Fiona Keating,
Josh Sims
Production editor
Caterina Mazzolai
Acting production editor
Ruairidh Pritchard
Production assistant
Katie Muxworthy
City guide and lifestyle editor
Isabella Redmond Styles
Fashion editor
Ximena Daneri
News editor
Hannah Lewis
Fashion and news assistant
Theresa Harold
Fashion coordinator
Fani Mari
Chief sub-editor
Hester Lacey
Copy editors
Katie Davis, Sue Flook,
Claire Gervat,
Ann Morphew,
Harriet O’Brien
Picture editor
Kirsty Andrews
Creative editor/deputy picture editor
Sarah Beyts
Assistant picture editor
Grace Bird
Picture assistants
Mónica R Goya,
Charlotte Rogers
Art direction
Design by S-T
Artwork editor
Simon Thompson
Artworking assistants
Aaron Carline,
Dionne Hélène,
Milkha Lala
Artworking intern
Tom Knight
GL OBA L BLU E
S W I TZ E R L A N D
Managing director
Ronald Christen
Marketing manager
Michael Mauerhoff
Marketing coordinator
Ralph Wutscher
Global Blue,
Zürichstrasse 38,
CH-8306 Brüttisellen,
Switzerland
16
p.30
PRODUCTS
20 Check Out
SHOP selects a standout piece from
Switzerland this season
22 Products
Key looks for the season, from fashion and
footwear to jewellery and accessories
N E WS
24 Shop Window
One store not to be missed in Switzerland
26 News
Seasonal updates on shops, services and
new products
F E AT U R E
30 Cover Story: The Write Place
Swiss ingenuity and technology is by no
means limited to watches and clocks: the
country is home to impressive pioneers of
pens and writing implements, says Josh
Sims
E X PE R I E NCE
36 Table Talk
Thanks to their innovative menus and
applauded chefs Switzerland’s hotel
restaurants are enjoying a surge in
popularity, as Theresa Harold fnds out
GU I DE
40 Maps and guides to Switzerland’s top shops
and destinations
E SSE N T I A L S
52 How To Shop Tax Free
The simple steps to saving money on your
shopping
T R A NSL AT IONS
53 Русский Перевод
55 美文翻译
57
POSTC A R D
58 SHOP writes home about
IWC Schafhausen
Above: Prodir’s DS9 leather ball pen is one of Switzerland’s most innovative writing implements
CONTENTS
LAPO ELKANN
by Chen Man
T H E A R T O F F U S I O N
B O U T I Q U E S
GENÈVE • PARIS • LONDON • BERLIN • NEW YORKMIAMI • BEVERLY HILLS • LAS VEGAS
MOSCOW • DUBAI • TOKYO • HONG KONG SINGAPORE • SAINT-TROPEZ • CANNES
COURCHEVEL • GSTAAD • ZERMATT
BIG BANG UNICO
ITALIA INDEPENDENT
HATS BY NICK FOUQUET
WOMEN– MENSWEAR
ZÜRICH — BAHNHOFSTRASSE 12/18 & STORCHENGASSEBASEL — FREIE STRASSE 74ST. MORITZ — VIA SERLAS
GSTAAD — PALACE STRASSE 1
ALEXANDER McQUEEN ALTUZARRA AZZEDINE ALAÏA
ASHISH BALENCIAGA BALMAIN BLUEMARINE
BOUCHRA JARRAR CÉLINE DELPOZO DOLCE & GABBANA
EACH X OTHER ETRO GARY GRAHAM GIVENCHY
JITROIS JONATHAN SAUNDERS LANVIN LOYD FORD
MARC JACOBS MARNI PETER PILOTTO
PROENZA SCHOULER PRABAL GURUNG RODARTE
SACAI SAINT LAURENT SIMONE ROCHA STELLA JEAN
STELLA McCARTNEY THAKOON THE ROW TOM FORD
URBAN ZEN VISVIM CASHMERE THE ELDER STATESMAN
LUCIEN PELLAT-FINET JEANS PAIGE R13
T-SHIRT THE WHITE BRIEFS BAGS & ACCESSORIES GIVENCHY
MAISON TAKUYA MYRIAM SCHAEFER PROENZA SCHOULER
SAINT LAURENT JEWELLERY HOORSENBUHS
KIESELSTEIN-CORD LE GRAMME LYDIA COURTEILLE
SHOES AQUAZZURA FEIT GIANVITO ROSSI GIVENCHY
PROENZA SCHOULER SAINT LAURENT STALLION BOOTS
STUBBS & WOOTTON TABITHA SIMMONS
COSMETICS BODY DELI ZELENS
20 | PRODUCTS
Save money by shopping tax free, see page 52
CHECK OUT
rose gold case of the new In the Pocket watch
has a silver dial. The handcrafted strap is
sewn in the Hermès leather-making studio in
Switzerland and is composed of three layers
of leather expertly polished with beeswax.
The 178-piece limited-edition creation is also
designed to be worn as a stylish pocket watch. fk
Hermès In the Pocket watch, €28,700,
Hermès, Bahnhofstrasse 28A,
8001 Zürich,
+41 (0)44 211 4177,
hermes.com
* for map go to page 42
FAMILY HEIRLOOM
Jacqueline Hermès was an energetic nine-
year-old in 1912 when she was given a gift
by her father of an unusual pocket watch that
had a leather holder designed to keep it on
her wrist. In 2012, 100 years later, the watch
was reinvented under the name In the Pocket.
Hermès has now issued a second piece in the
series, a rose gold watch with a 50-hour power
reserve and an alligator leather exterior. The
22 | PRODUCTS
Save money by shopping tax free, see page 52
1. Tod’s loafers, CHF380,
Tod’s, 108-110 rue du Rhône,
1204 Geneva, +41 (0)22 310 0810,
tods.com
2. Massimo Dutti coat, CHF335,
Massimo Dutti, Bahnhofstrasse 53,
8001 Zürich, +41 (0)44 210 1105,
massimodutti.com
3. Piaget watch, CHF29,000,
Piaget, 40 rue du Rhône,
1204 Geneva, +41 (0)22 817 0200,
piaget.com
4. Diesel jeans, CHF199,
Diesel, Bahnhofstrasse 84,
8001 Zürich, +41 (0)43 497 2280,
diesel.com
5. Santoni bag, CHF3,200,
Santoni, Via Nassa 32,
6900 Lugano, +41 (0)91 922 0111,
santonishoes.com
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GOT THE BLUES
Navy, denim and khaki are the
ultimate combination this season
3 4
2
5
globalblue.com
SHOP | 23
1. Escada coat, CHF2,799,
Escada, 112 rue du Rhône,
1204 Geneva, +41 (0)22 311 0252,
escada.com
2. Salvatore Ferragamo watch,
CHF1,940, Salvatore Ferragamo,
104 rue du Rhône, 1204 Geneva,
+41 (0)22 310 1508, ferragamo.com
3. Louis Vuitton bag, CHF3,800,
Louis Vuitton, 2 place du Lac,
1204 Geneva, +41 (0)22 311 0232,
louisvuitton.com
4. Clarks shoes, CHF80, Clarks,
Werdmühleplatz 4, 8001 Zürich,
+41 (0)44 221 0221,
clarks.ch
5. Marc Cain hat, CHF129,
Marc Cain, 7 rue de la Fontaine,
1204 Geneva, +41 (0)22 311 4040,
marc-cain.com
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QUIET TONES
Adopt soft, neutral colours this winter and
mix them with a strong, black palette
1 2
5
4
3
Save money by shopping tax free, see page 52
SHOP WINDOW
24 | N E WS
the inauguration of the new store coincided with the launch of a new watch collection for the legendary house. Visitors to the elegant new shop will be able to explore the Tifany treasures in a sophisticated and spacious environment that refects the brand’s values asa purveyor of luxury goods. thTifany & Co, 21 rue du Rhône, 1204 Geneva, +41 (0)22 761 5550, tifany.com
* for map go to page 46
TERRIFIC TIFFANY
In May 2015 Tifany & Co opened its third boutique in Switzerland. Located on rue du Rhône in Geneva’s premier shopping district, the store showcases the brand’s latest jewellery and watch collections and extends across 5,900 square feet. Geneva played a major role in Tifany’s watchmaking history: in 1868, the company opened a branch in the city and later established a watch factory here. Fittingly,
TOMMY HILFIGER STORES
STÜCKI SHOPPING, BASEL
WESTSIDE, BERN
VIA MAISTRA 2, ST. MORITZ
BAHNHOFSTRASSE 24, ZÜRICH
Save money by shopping tax free, see page 52
26 | N E WS
ECLECTIC CHIC
If there’s one certainty with Miuccia Prada, it is that there are no certainties. Her autumn/winter 2015/16 collection for Miu Miu is a glorious mishmash of colours, patterns, and even eras. Outfts are an exercise in contrasts, with thick houndstooth coats teamed with patent crocodile leather miniskirts. The efect is a joyous assault on the senses. Oversized buttons are a key motif that unites sometimes disparate looks. This oversized theme was also apparent in the costume jewellery worn by the models who showed the collection. The only area where Prada doesn’t play with proportions is accessories; bags and shoes have a distinctly 1950s feel, albeit with a cartoon-like Miu Miu makeover. th
Miu Miu, Storchengasse 16, 8001 Zürich, +41 (0)44 212 8318, miumiu.com
* for map go to page 42
MODERN LUXE
This season’s Ermenegildo Zegna menswear collection is a masterclass in luxury fabrics. The Italian fashion house, founded over a century ago as a luxury wool mill that produced some of the highest-quality textiles in the world, has gone back to its roots with pieces crafted from the fnest wools and cashmeres. A palette of dusky pastels, earthy khaki greens and rusty browns dominates an otherwise monochrome collection. Highlights include cashmere polo-neck sweaters matched with exquisitely tailored velvet sports coats, while an impressive array of tweed caps is echoed in a tweed printed raincoat. This collection, which matches luxury fabrics with practical necessity, makes it easy to see why Ermenegildo Zegna is a go-to label for luxury modern menswear. rp
Ermenegildo Zegna,Via Serlas 30, 7500 St Moritz, +41 (0)81 833 5146, zegna.com
* for map go to page 50 PH
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globalblue.com
WRAP UP WARM
For luxurious outerwear with a fashion edge, look no further than Moncler’s latest womenswear collection. From cocoon coats to capes to bomber jackets, Moncler ofers a shape to suit every taste and fgure, but it is the textures and detailing that take centre stage here. A subtle colour palette highlights the softness of fne wool or the volume of jacquard on otherwise classic coats. Deep black is chosen as the base for bold winter forals on sporty bomber jackets. Structured shapes exaggerate the contrasts of luxurious fabrics, with jacquard pieces edged in fur proving a real highlight. For evening, look out for the soft wool cape with foral beading: the perfect piece to wear over a cocktail dress. hl
Moncler, 57 rue du Rhône, 1204 Geneva, +41 (0)22 310 6933, moncler.com
* for map go to page 46
TIMELESS TAILORING
With its Tailored collection, American lifestyle label Tommy Hilfger has cornered the market for high-quality, fuss-free and timeless tailoring. Using excellent fabrics and precise cuts, the collection is beautifully made and designed with fashion in mind, ofering a range of classic pieces from sharp blazers to suit trousers. The Tailored collection is sure to please any gentleman who likes to look sharp. This season, look out for a range of subtle checks and tartans which will give your formal wardrobe a lift. Two- and three-piece suits are among the collection’s highlights and the range as a whole is designed to be harmonious, making it easy to stay on-trend by mixing and matching pieces in similar shades. mkh
Tommy Hilfger, Sihlcity, Kalanderplatz 1, 8045 Zürich, +41 (0)44 403 3700, tommy.com
Save money by shopping tax free, see page 52
28 | N E WS
SAY IT WITH DIAMONDS
Inspired by the style of the 1920s, Bucherer presents its latest collection of fne jewellery, Vive Elle. The art deco-infuenced range comprises around 20 pieces, including earrings, necklaces, bracelets and rings. Featuring exquisite materials such as white gold, platinum and diamonds, the collection fuses Bucherer’s heritage of excellence in craftsmanship with the zest for life that characterised the Roaring Twenties. This ring’s distinctively solid look is based around a stylised fgure of eight, which evokes ideas of infnity as well as referencing 1888, the year Bucherer was founded. While the ring is almost masculine in its design, delicate rows of diamonds add a feminine fnishing touch. hlBucherer, Schwanenplatz 5, 6002 Lucerne, +41 (0)41 369 7700, bucherer.com
SPECIAL EFFECTS
The latest womenswear collection from Swiss brand Bally is bold and colourful and takes inspiration from the flms of director Wes Anderson as well as the style of the 1960s. Anderson is known for his idiosyncratic aesthetic and his larger-than-life characters, and the collection is a nod to his unique leading ladies. The pieces have a carefully considered design yet are made to be worn with nonchalance. Contrasting colours and textures abound on A-line silhouettes, bringing retro references bang up to date. Combined with Bally’s classic accessories, including the timeless Corner bag, this is one of the strongest collections of the season. hlBally, 47 rue du Rhône,1204 Geneva,+41 (0)22 310 2287,bally.com
* for map go to page 46
SHOP | 29
PERFECT PENMANSHIP
The launch of the Montblanc M pen, designed by Marc Newson, ushers in a new era of design excellence for the maison. This is the Montblanc’s frst ever design partnership and Newson’s trademark style, inspired by organic forms, has translated beautifully into this magnifcent writing instrument. As ever, functionality is at the heart of the product. This has been creatively expressed in the use of a magnet to close the cap and an additional snap mechanism to hold it in place. The platinum-plated clip is mounted invisibly into the cap so it does not disrupt the fuidity of the overall design. Newson has stayed true to the Montblanc aesthetic with his choice of the company’s black ‘precious resin’ as the main body material. thMontblanc, Bahnhofstrasse 25, 8001 Zürich, +41 (0)44 211 4810, montblanc.com
* for map go to page 42
HIP TO BE SQUARE
Concept brand 290 Square Meters has opened a new store in Zürich, building on the success of its boutiques in Amsterdam and Istanbul. Called 90 Square Meters because it covers that amount of space, the Zürich store has the same style and attitude as the other branches, with the same core motto, ‘make the best use of the space available’. This it certainly does, presenting quality, well-crafted products in a unique environment. The store is beautifully designed and has a chic, industrial look which cleverly gives it a greater sense of size. Its careful selection of premium brands includes Levi’s, Converse and Crafted. fm90 Square Meters, Badenerstrasse 175, 8003 Zürich, +41 (0)44 548 0633,290sqm.com
globalblue.com
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Swiss ingenuity and technology is by no means limited to watches and clocks: the country is home to impressive pioneers of pens and
writing implements, says Josh Sims
THE
WRITE
PLACE
32 | F E AT U R E S
Switzerland is an understated innovator in the world of pens. Many people may regard Germany as creating some of
the world’s best writing instruments; after all, the country is home to the likes of Pelikan, Montblanc, Faber Castell and Bossert & Erhard. But over its southern border is a very diferent kind of pen industry focused on a diferent kind of writing instrument. There, to employ national stereotype, German engineering comes up against Swiss design, and there lesser-known makers such as Wagner produce writing goods that are both more accessibly priced and less traditional.
Take the manufacturer Prodir. The company gently mocks its own Swissness: a recent Prodir blog notes that as well as being the birthplace of Le Corbusier, the nation is home to the Alpine horn, nude hiking, a variety of wrestling known as Schwingen and 700,000 cows. Yet the blog also states that Prodir’s mission is the provision of ‘good design, good and replaceable reflls and a good price’, and that the company follows a design principle of less-is-more and a motto of ‘reduce to the max’. All of which is refected in Prodir’s new DS9 pen. This comes with a mix of surface detailing (a matt or frosted casing with a polished or transparent clip and push button), a variety of unusual colours (cement grey, denim blue and sunset orange among them) and, importantly, Prodir’s foating ball nib system.
Impressively, the pen embodies subtle changes in shape, with its rounded tip evolving gradually into the oval shape of the push button. Prodir’s designers have thought carefully about the detailing, and the brand’s website notes that ‘the intentionally classic design is slightly ironically broken up by the asymmetrical connection between clip and cap’. Who knew a pen could be ironic? The important point, however, is that it’s a lot of pen for not a lot of money. This is Swiss democratic design at its best.
What could be more
elegant and simple
than the pencil?
Anyone harbouring
notions that, in the
touchscreen age, such
a humble product has
had its day should
think again
Previous page: the Prodir DS9 leather pen/53 5557
SHOP | 33
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Christoph Schnug, designer for Prodir, explains that it’s all about ‘surprising compositions that remain recognisable. A disruptive element is often a detail that makes a design efective. It’s a feature that attracts the eye momentarily.’ He adds that when someone picks up the pen, ‘I hope that he or she thinks “I know this from somewhere. I have seen this before, haven’t I?” If this is the case, the product has a soul. Beautiful things don’t cry out for attention.’
Indeed what could be more elegant and simple than the pencil? If there are notions that, in the touchscreen age, such a humble product has had its day, think again. According to Carole Hubscher, managing director of the 100-year-old family business Caran d’Ache, sales of pencils, both coloured and plain, are on the up. The company creates all of its
Above (clockwise from botom lef): Caran d’Ache managing director Carole Hubscher; Wagner Swiss Jewel aromatherapy pens; Caran d’Ache Goliath cartridge and two of the brand’s Swiss Wood pencils; the Prodir DS9 pen in concrete; a Caran d’Ache crafsman at work
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34 | F E AT U R E S
Above: Caran d’Ache uses specialist processes to create its writing materials
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Above (from top): Caran d’Ache pencils; the brand’s limited-edition Oberalp pen
introduction of a pencil made of dark Swiss wood that has a distinctive, smoky smell.
Its specialist processes, such as the formula of the waxy oil in which the clay and pigment core of a pencil is soaked in order to allow it to actually mark paper, are industrial secrets. ‘Every child knows what a good pencil is. You get to feel it. It’s the kind of thing you often learn through bad experience,’ says Hubscher. ‘In many ways making pencils is like cooking: you can’t make good food with mediocre ingredients.’ The oil formula in the brand’s pencil making, she continues ‘is a know-how that has developed over decades ‒ what goes into it, how long each type of lead should be in it, how often the oil needs changing. As with many understated Swiss products, it’s the result of the kind of knowledge and attention that comes through making things for a long time.’ wagnerswitzerland.com, prodir.com, carandache.com
Caran d’Ache has a
worldwide reputation
for applying Swiss
precision to the
making of the pencil
– its products were
favoured by Picasso
and Miró
products at a single site, just outside Geneva, and it makes pens to rival those of Prodir: its Goliath cartridge, for example, has 8km of writing capacity. Yet Caran d’Ache also has a worldwide reputation for turning that Swiss precision to the making of the pencil, the most basic of writing tools. Perhaps this is why artists such as Picasso and Miró favoured these products.
‘There’s still a big place for the pencil,’ says Hubscher. ‘With a pencil you’re creating by hand, facilitating that direct link between brain and paper, and I think there’s something very special in that. Besides, tablets and smart phones are relatively new; pencils have been a well-established technology for a long, long time.’
It’s a technology that requires specialist materials: Californian cedarwood, for example, which not only sharpens without splintering but smells good, too. Caran d’Ache has also played with the idea of aromas through the
PH
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globalblue.com
TABLE TALKHotel restaurants in Switzerland are enjoying a great surge in popularity thanks to their innovative menus and much applauded chefs, as Theresa
Harold discovers
There was a time when the prospect of eating in a hotel restaurant conjured images of uninspired salads and overpriced steaks. With a few notable exceptions, they were places where seasoned travellers opted to dine out of necessity rather than choice. But in recent years, there has been a quiet revolution in the hospitality industry. Switzerland is a prime example of this new development, with hotels waking up to the creative and exciting opportunities they have in their own kitchens and dining rooms. Talented chefs are taking the lead, experimenting with fusion cuisine and reinventing classic dishes for contemporary tastes. So, whether you’re in Zürich, Geneva or St Moritz, check out these in-house dining options for an experience that’s sure to be remembered long after you check out.
36 | E X PE R I E NCE
SHOP | 37
P A R K H U U S
Parkhuus restaurant at Park Hyatt Zürich ofers a fne-dining experience that befts its exclusive location in the city centre. Ofering Swiss regional cuisine alongside international dishes, the menu is based on fresh, seasonal ingredients, with many of the products purchased at the local market. Also worthy of note is the impressive wine list, which features more than 600 wines and champagnes. Parkhuus Restaurant,Beethovenstrasse 21, 8002 Zürich,+41 (0)43 883 1075,parkhuus-restaurant.ch
38 | EXPER IENCE
globalblue.com
P AV I L L O N
At Pavillon, the restaurant at Baur au Lac hotel in Zürich, head chef Laurent Eperon serves creative dishes with an aesthetic fair that delights diners. Fusing contemporary methods with traditional ingredients and favours, Pavillon presents fne dining at its most innovative, and in recognition of this it has been awarded a Michelin star. Pavillon, Talstrasse 1, 8001 Zürich, +41 (0)44 220 5022, aupavillon.ch
B A Y V I E W
Acclaimed French chef Michel Roth presides over Hotel President Wilson’s elegant Bayview restaurant. The Michelin-starred chef brings his signature classic yet contemporary style of cuisine to Geneva, serving seasonal food alongside traditional dishes that are transformed by his skilled touch and surprising twists. The chef explains that he likes diners to feel ‘as though they have been invited to dinner at a friend’s house’. His menu, though, is quite beyond such expectations. Starters range from foie gras with fgs to warm blue lobster with young leeks, soya gribiche sauce and claw barbajuans (pastries with spinach, chard and crab claw). Main course options might include succulent beef fllet with chickweed, chard, fondant potatoes and burnt onion cream. The desserts are irresistible; try the millefeuille with chocolate, praline and sea salt caramel sauce.Bayview, Hotel President Wilson, 47 quai Wilson, 1211 Geneva, +41 (0)22 906 6552, hotelpresidentwilson.com/bayview-restaurant
PH
OT
O: M
ER
LIN
PH
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Y L
TD
.
PH
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E X PE R I E NCE | 39
T H E P I Z
Ofering a delicious selection of local dishes and time-honoured classics, the restaurant and pizzeria at Hotel Piz St Moritz is a great option for comfort food. In particular, the signature risotto with creamy beetroot and bufalo mozzarella is a perfect winter warmer. Those
seeking a pizza fx will be spoilt for choice, with more than 35 options on the menu. The cosy décor and welcoming atmosphere extend to the Piz bar, where locals and guests can relax after a day on the slopes. Hotel Piz St Moritz, Via dal Bagn 6,7500 St Moritz,+41 (0)81 832 1111, piz-stmoritz.ch
PH
OT
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AN
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I GIO
VA
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KM
U F
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GUIDE
40 | GUIDE
Above: the Jungfrau railway travels up to the Jungfraujoch to give spectacular views of the snow-capped mountains
Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Switzerland with
a look at the city’s best boutiques. Start with SHOP’s recommendations before
delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more
helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/switzerland.
A GLIMPSE OF SWITZERLAND
SHOP | 41
BEATE
NGASSE
SCHÜTZENGASSE
WERDMÜHLEST
RASSE
LÖWENSTRASSE
LÖWENSTRASSE
FÜSSLISTRASSE
SCHIPFE
TALACKER
TALACKER
NÜSCH
ELERSTR
ASSE
NÜSCH
ELERSTRASSE
SANKT PETERSTR
ASSE
MÜN
ZPLATZ
PELIKANSTRASSE
ZAHRINGERSTRASSE
NIEDERDORFSTRASS
NIEDERDORFSTRASSE
MÜNSTERGASSE
OETENBACHGASSE
KUTTELGASSE
FORTUN
AGASSE
AUGUSTINERGASSE
MÜNSTERHOF
SCHIFFLÄ
NDE
BASTEIPLATZ
RENNWEG
RENNWEG
GESSNERALLEE
INGASSEN
STO
RCHENGASSE
LIMMATQUAI
LIMMATQUAI
LIMMATQUAI
USTERISTRASSE
MÜHLESTEG
LIMMATQ
UAI
TALSTRASSE
TALSTRASSE
FRAUMÜNSTERSTRASSE
BAHNHOFPLATZ
BAHNHOFQUAI
LÖWENSTRASSE BAHNHOFBRÜCKE
SCHANZENGRABEN- PROMENADE S
TADTHAUSQUAI
WÜHRE
URANIASTRASSE
URANIASTRASSEMÜHLESGASSE
SEIDENGASSE
BAHNOF
STRASS
E
BAHNHOFSTRASSE
BAHNHOFSTRASSE
BÄRENGASSE
BAHNHOFSTRASSE
ZÜRICH MAIN STATION
ALFRED ESCHER MEMORIAL
Lindenhof
ST. PETER’S CHURCHROMAN BATHS
CITY HALL
WATER CHURCH
GROSSMÜNSTER
FRAUMÜNSTER ABBEYHANS WALDMANN
MEMORIAL
PARADEPLATZ
Weinplatz
FOUNTAIN OF THESQUARE BEARS
OBSERVATORY URANIA
ZÜRICH
Place Of Interest Train Station Global Blue Refund Ofce
page
42
page
42
42 | GUIDE
Global Blue Retailer
Bahnhofstrasse
FÜSSLISTR ASSE
OETENBACHGASSE
NÜ
SCHELER
STRA
SSE
PELIK
ANSTRASSE
ZA
HR
ING
ER
ST
RA
SS
E
CL
AR
IDE
NS
TR
AS
SE
LÖW
EN
ST
RA
SS
E
SC
HIP
FE
NIE
DE
RD
OR
FS
TR
AS
SE
NIE
DE
RD
OR
FS
TR
AS
SE
TALA
CK
ER
TALACKER
SCH
IFFLÄN
DE
BASTEIPLATZ
RE
NN
WE
G
S
TA
DT
HA
US
QU
AI
BA
HN
HO
FQ
UA
I
BLEICHERWEG
LIM
MA
TQ
UA
I
TALSTRASSE
WERDM
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RA
SS
E
UR
AN
IAS
TR
.
UR ANIASTR ASSE MÜHLE S G A S SE
BÄRENGASSE
LIMM
ATQU
AI
B
AH
NH
OF
ST
RA
SS
E
BA
HN
HO
FS
TR
AS
SE
B
AH
NH
OF
ST
RA
SS
E
LIM
MA
TQ
UA
I
L
IMM
AT
QU
AI
SIHLSTR ASSE
L
ÖW
EN
ST
RA
SS
E
BAHNHOFBRÜCKE
● MIU MIU
● C&A
SWAROVSKI ●BONITA ●
THE BODY SHOP ●CLAIRE'S ●
YENDI PARIS ●H&M ●
MOBILE ZONE ●GOLDHAUS ●FIELMANN ●
OCHSNER SPORT ●COOP VITALITY ●
● DÜRR
● YVES ROCHER● GÖTTE OPTIK
● SWATCH
● DIESEL
● MANGO
● KURZ● CHRIST
● TALLY WEIJL ● MODISSA
● REPLAY
● BOGGI● DAVIDOFF
● LES AMBASSADEURS● RIETHMÜLLER● FRANZ CARL WEBER
● LONGCHAMP
● OCH SPORT● BATA
● BUCHERER
● PKZ● TEUSCHER● BURBERRY ● BRUNOS● HUBLOT
● CHOPARD● FERRAGAMO● TOGAL● PIAGET● GÜBELIN
● TOD'S ● LOUIS VUITTON
● MADAME ZÜRICH
● STRÄULI SPORT & MODE● LACOSTE
● FOTO GANZ● JOHN R. WULLSCHLEGER
● BIJOUTERIE URECH
● MONCLER
● TOM FORD
● HERMÈS● TÜRLER● BLANCPAIN
● LORO PIANA● JIMMY CHOO● TOMMY HILFIGER● GROSS COUTERE
● STEFANO ● RICCI● TIFFANY● TROISPOMMES
● NAVYBOOT● KOCHOPTIK
● MAGGS
● HEINICKE UHREN● MUSIK HUG● ERNST LOOSLI
VAN LAACK ●
WYSSBROD ●SALIS & VERTES ●
AIRBIJOUX ●A.C. BANG ●
CHRISTIAN DIOR ●
WEINBERG ●
KOCHOPTIK ●
HACKETT ●
MONTBLANC ●BOTTEGA VENETA ●
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ●BULGARI ●
ARMANI ●
CARTIER ●
HUGO BOSS ●CHANEL ●
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS ●BIJOUTERIE MEISTER ●
BREGUET ●BEYER ●
PATEK PHILIPPE ●
WE ●THOMAS SABO ●
LANDOLT-ARBENZ ●IWC ●
ST. ANNAHOF ●
The QuarterAPPLE ●
BIG ●
BELDONA ●
NAVYBOOT ●
● FIDELIO
TROIS POMMES ● ● LA PERLA
Jelmoli
Manor
Globus
● BOVET
● NAVYBOOT
CENTRAL ● JEWELLERY
● DOLMETSCH
● CASHMERE HOUSE
● EYE’S ART ● MEISTER UHREN
● FALKE
● DOLCE & GABBANA
● TROIS POMMES
TROIS POMMES ●
BOGNERSPORT ●
● MCM
● MEISTER UHREN
● GASSMANN
● LAS PERLITASParade-Platz
OSSWALD ●
Central
● GRIEDER
SPRÜNGLI ●
● STEIFF
● FIDELIO 2
● BALLY
● PRADA
SCHWEIZER● HEIMATWERKE
Cantineta Antinori
Hiltl
Pavillon
● VIERI
● PKZ WOMEN
● P
KZ M
EN
Zeughauskeller
CHRIST ●
● ZARA ● VICTORINOX ● SANDRO
● SWATCHKUTTELGASSE
● TH
OM
AS
SABO
OMEGA ●
BRIONI ●
PAUL & SHARK ●
● BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
ROLEX ●
● GUCCI
● MORESCHI
● BOGNER
● FURLA
● MAX & MOI
● JIL SANDER
● LEDER LOCHER
● JAEGER-LECOULTREVESTIBULE ●
SCHWEIZER ● HEIMWERKER
BOUTIQUE ROMA ●
SELECTED
STORES IN
JELMOLI:
LONGCHAMP
ZARA
FUST
CHRIST
FALKE
BENCI BROTHERS
Shopping Centre/Mall
Restaurant
Department StoreNon-Global Blue Retailer
SELECTED STORES IN
THE QUARTER:
BELDONA
BIG
ESPRIT
H&M
MASSIMO DUTTI
NAVYBOOT
V PHARMACY
P.20
P.29
Featured In This Issue
020.0
1130
02
The leading department store of Switzerland
44 | GUIDE
GENEVA
RUE P
ÉCOLA
RUE SISMONDI PL. DES ALPES
RU
E DE V
UACH
E
RUE D
E MALATREX
RUE D
E MALATREX
RUE DE LA RÔTISSERIE
RU
E DU
GÉN
ÉRA
L- DU
FOU
R
RUE DE-CANDOLLE
RU
E D
E L
A C
OR
RA
TE
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RUE DU VIEUX-BILLARD
PLACE NEUVE
RU
E VERDAIN
E
RUE JEAN-PETITOT
RUE DE HASSE
RU
E FR
AN
ÇO
IS-D
IDAY
RUE DE LA CROIX-ROUGE
R
UE SAIN
T LAGER
BD. E
MIL
E-JAQUES-DALCROZE
RUE N
ECKER
RUE D ES E
TUVES
RUE-AM
I-L�VRIER
PON
T DU MO
NT-BLAN
C
RUE DE L’ATHÉNÉE
RU
E D
E L'A
RQ
UE
BU
SE
RU
E D
E R
OIS
RUE PRUEHIL
IPPE-P
L
A
VE
NU
E D
U M
AI
RUE DU RHÔNE RUE DU RHÔNE
RUE DU STAND
RUE DU MARCHÉ
R
UE
R.-
CÉ
AR
D
QUAI DE L A POSTE
RU
E DE C
OU
TAN
CE R
UE D
E L
A T
OU
R-D
E-I'LLE
RU
E DE LA CITÉ GRAND-RUE
RUE DE LA SERVETTE
BOULEVARD JAM
ES -FAZY
QUAI DU GÉNÉR AL GUISAN
RUE T
ERREAUX-D
U-T
EMPLE
RUE DU TEMPLE
RUE D
U M
ANDEMEN
T
RUE D
E BERN
E
RUE KLÉBERG RUE F
RANÇOIS-B
ONIVARD
QUAI TURRETTINI
QUAI DES BERGUES
QUAI DU M
ONT-B
LANC B
OU
LE
VA
RD
JAM
ES
-FAZ
Y P
ON
T D
E L
A C
OU
LOU
VR
EN
IER
E
BO
ULEVA
RD
GEO
RG
ES-FAV
ON
Place de laFusterie
Parc des Bastions
PlaceDe-Grenus
Place deLongemalle
Place duMolard
GENEVA MAIN STATION
RATH MUSEUM
GRAND THEATRE
PATEK PHILIPPE MUSEUM
MUSÉE D'ART ET CONTEMPORAIN
ST. PIERRE CATHEDRAL
INTERNATIONAL MUSEUMOF THE REFORMATION
Le Relaisde l'Entrecôte
Chez Ma Cousine
Manora Restaurant
Café de Paris
Genève Tourisme& Congrès
La SIP
Beau Rivage
Le Baroque
Brasserie des Halles de L'ile
JET D’EAU
L'HORLOGE FLEURIE
Place Of Interest Tourist InformationTrain Station
Restaurant Bar
Global Blue Refund Point
page
45
page
46
page
48
SHOP | 45
Hotel
Rue du Mont-Blanc
RUE ROUSSEAU
R
UE
CO
RN
AVIN
RUE DU C
ENDRIER
RUE A
MI-LÉVRIE
R
RUE FRANÇOIS
-BO
NIV
ARD
RUE DU MONT-BLANCRUE DE CHANTEPOULET
QUAI TURRE T TINI
QUAI DES BERGUES
SWATCH ●HORLOGERIE BIJOUTERIE O.ZBINDEN ●
MARIONNAUD ●ROBERT RASCHLE ●
ESPACE TEMPS ●ORANGE ●
HORLOGERIE CADHOR ● CHRIST ●
THE GIFTBOX ● LA MOUTON A 5 PATTES ●
● BUCHERER
DRAKE STORE (MEN) ●
● LE MOUTONS A 5 PATTES
● BENOIT DE GORSKI
● U
LYSSE NARDIN
LA CHEM
ISERIE
● T
RADITIO
NELLE
LA MAISON DE● L'HORLOGERIE
MADISON STORE ●
BIJOUTERIE KUNZ ●
CHRONOMETRIEKUNZ ●
● MONTRES SA
● BIJOUTERIE B & B
Manor
DRAKE STORE (WOMEN) ●
COUTELLERIE DU JET D'EAU ●PASTORE-NICOLET SA ●
KRESS OPTIC ●PHARMACIA PLAZA ●
Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues
TABAC RHEIN ●
PILI CARRERA ●
● HAROLD W.
Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer Department Store
OUTLET AUBONNE
Located just 15 minutes from Lausanne and
30 minutes from Geneva, Outlet Aubonne
is the largest shopping centre of its kind
in French-speaking western Switzerland.
Renovated in 2013, the outlet now has more
than 50 boutiques, covering everything from
sportswear to jewellery. From Nike to Guess
and The Kooples, national and international
brands are stocked at reduced prices, making
the centre a perfect destination for a day out.
Outlet Aubonne,
14 pré Neuf, 1170 Aubonne,
+41 (0)58 853 8600,
outlet-aubonne.ch
46 | GUIDE
Rue du Marché Rue du Rhône
RUE D'ITALIE
R. ROBERT-CÉARD
RU
E D
U R
HÔ
NE
R
UE
DU
RH
ÔN
E
R
UE
DU
RH
ÔN
E
R
UE
DU
RH
ÔN
E
RU
E D
E L
A C
ON
FÉ
DÉ
RA
TIO
N R
UE
DU
MA
RC
HÉ
R
UE
DE
LA
CR
OIX
-D'O
R R
UE
DE
RIV
E
CO
UR
S D
E R
IVE
RUE DE LA TOUR-MA ÎTRESSE
Place deLongemalle
Place duMolard
Place de la
Fusterie
Placedu
Port
● PHARMACIA POPULARIE● PHOTO HALL● MARIONNAUD● KOOKAÏ
● BIJOUTERIE BADER● COOP CITY● PKZ MEN
● H&M
● CLARENCE CHRONOMETRIE SA
● SWAROVSKI
● BERSHKA
● OCHSNER SPORT
● LONGCHAMP
● MICHAEL KORS● MOLARD SOUVENIRS● TALLY WEIJL● DOUGLAS● FIELMANN● ZARA HOME
● BATA
● ESPRIT
● CYRILLUS
● DIESEL
● ACUITIS
HISTOIRE● DE PLAIRE● FUST● SWISSCOM
● CHEMISERIE CENTRALE
● VISILAB● YVES ROCHER
● ICE WATCH● VERO MODA● MARIONNAUD● KOOKAÏ
● GODIVA CHOCOLATIER
CHEMISERIE CENTRAL ●
TENTATION BIJOUX ●
SAN MARINA ●VISILAB OPTICIENS ●
CHOPARD ●CONFÉDÉRATION CENTRE ●
VICTORINOX ●BENETTON ●
HUGO BOSS ●
PROMOD ●NAVYBOOT ●
BCBGMAXAZRIA ●SWATCH ●
H&M ●
INTERDISCOUNT ●
C&A ●
BLUE LEMON ●LACOSTE ●
FRANZ CARL WEBER ●
DAVIDOFF ●L’OCCITANE ●
APPLE ●
DEVERNOIS ●BERDOZ OPTIC ●
FNAC ●
GGG GILLES ●
Globus
Bongénie
MARIONNAUD ●
RUE D'ITALIE
R. ROBERT-CÉARD
RU
E D
U R
HÔ
NE
R
UE
DU
RH
ÔN
E
R
UE
DU
RH
ÔN
E
R
UE
DU
RH
ÔN
E
RU
E D
E L
A C
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FÉ
DÉ
RA
TIO
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HÉ
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DE
LA
CR
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-D'O
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UE
DE
RIV
E
CO
UR
S D
E R
IVE
OUR-MA ÎTRESSE
Place deLongemalle
Place duMolard
Place de la
Fusterie
Placedu
Port
IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN ●AESCHBACH ●
COOP CITY ●
JIMMY CHOO ●
BULGARI ●
BLANCPAIN ●
BREGUET ●PIAGET ●
LEONARD ●HARRY WINSTON ●
JAEGER LE COULTRE ●ZARA ●
GÜBELIN ●CHRISTIAN DIOR ●
FENDI ●LES AMBASSADEURS ●
LORO PIANA ●ERMENEGILDO
ZEGNA ●BENOÎT DE GORSKI ●
VERSACE ●FRED ●
BIJOUX BURMA ●GUCCI ●
VILEBREQUIN ●DRAKE STORE ●
MARINA RINALDI ●SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ●
LA PERLA ●HOGAN ●
TOD'S ●AUBADE ●
MAX MARA ●ESCADA ●
BOGGI ●DIVINO AMORE ●
LA COUPOLE ●
KAREN ● MILLEN
VERMOREL FOURRURES ●
● MONCLER
TOURBILLON ●
RUE DE L A TOUR-MA ÎTRESSE
● HYSEK● APOSTROPHE
● BOUCHERON ● L. RAPHAËL
CHRISTIAN● LOUBOUTIN
● ARMENIO ARMANI● OFFICINE PANARAI
● ROGER VIVIER● TIFFANY & CO
● JAHAN BIJOUTERIE● ADLER● CHOPARD● DE GRISOGONO● GRAFF● CHATILA● VAN CLEEF & ARPELS● OMEGA
● LOUIS VUITTON
● CARTIER● SERGIO ROSSI
● ZENITH WATCHES
● HERMÈS
● PATEK PHILIPPE
● CHANEL● BUCHERER
● MONTBLANC● CÉLINE● BALLY
● PRADA
● MARCONI
● VHERNIER● BOTTEGA VENETA
LE MOUTONS● A 5 PATTES● CHURCH'S● URBAN SIGNATURE● SHOW OFF
● HÄSTENS
● TOUZEAU
Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer Department Store
P.58
P.24
P.28
P.27
P.48
Featured In This Issue
48 | GUIDE
BONGÉNIE GRIEDER
Having already made a name for itself in the womenswear fashion scene, Bongénie Grieder is turning its attention to luxury menswear. The store in Geneva now has a dedicated space for men’s fashion and accessories from brands such as Ermenegildo Zegna, Paul Smith and Tom Ford. Style-conscious customers will enjoy browsing the latest collections in a chic and contemporary atmosphere.Bongénie Grieder, 34 rue du Marché, 1204 Geneva, +41 (0)22 818 1111, bongenie-grieder.ch
* for map go to page 46
Rue Robert Céard
Place du Molard
Place de Longemalle
R. ROBERT-CÉARD
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Rue de la Tour-Maîtresse
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Placedu Port
RUE D'ITALIE
RU
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DE
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RUE DE LA TO UR-M A ÎTRESSE
RU
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OR
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CO
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● PONTI
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OK
AI ●
CA
FÉ CO
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V-Y
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● CHARIVARI
● HACKETT
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50 | GUIDE
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TRAUNTERPLAZAS V
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Featured In This Issue
SHOP | 51
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TRANSLATIONS
53
Джош Симс рассказывает о швейцарских
компаниях, которые специализируются на
письменных принадлежностях и доказывают,
что любовь к технологиям и изобретательности
в этой стране распространяется не только на
часы
В сфере письменных принадлежностей
достижения Швейцарии часто остаются
недооцененным. Принято считать, что лучшие
в мире ручки производятся в Германии:
в конце концов, именно там появились и
работают Pelikan, Montblanc, Faber Castell,
Bossert & Erhard и другие компании. Но чуть
южнее процветает совсем другой вид этой
индустрии, в центре внимания которой — иной
подход к письменным приборам. Пользуясь
национальными стереотипами, немецкая
инженерия противопоставлена швейцарскому
дизайну, и в Швейцарии менее прославленные
производители (как, например, Wagner)
выпускают ручки — не такие традиционные и
более доступные по цене.
Характерный пример — компания Prodir,
для которой собственная принадлежность к
Швейцарии может быть поводом для изящного
юмора. Так, в недавней рассылке остроумно
отмечалось, что эта страна стала родиной не
только Ле Корбюзье, но и альпийского горна,
нудистского хайкинга, единоборства швинген
и 700000 коров. Кроме того, в этом бюллетене
говорится, что миссия Prodir — обеспечивать
«хороший дизайн, хорошие заменяемые
стержни и хорошую цену». Компания следует
дизайнерскому принципу «меньше значит
больше» и девизу «уменьшить до максимума».
Все это в полной мере проявилось
в новинке — ручке DS9. В ее дизайне
соединяются различные виды отделок
(матовый или с покрытием фрост корпус,
РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД
30: The Write Place
Написанному верить
полированные или прозрачные зажим и
кнопка) и необычные цвета (например,
цементный серый, джинсовый и закатный
оранжевый). И что самое важное, ручка
оснащена фирменным стержнем Floating Ball.
Округлость наконечника переходит
в овал кнопки, и эти обтекаемые формы
завораживают. Дизайнеры Prodir тщательно
продумали каждую деталь. Как говорится на
сайте компании, «асимметричное соединение
зажима и корпуса добавляет легкой иронии
подчеркнуто классическому дизайну». Кто
бы мог подумать, что ручка может быть
ироничной! Нельзя не отметить, что DS9
подразумевает качественный продукт
по доступной цене. Таков швейцарский
демократичный дизайн в лучшем своем
проявлении.
Дизайнер Prodir Кристоф Шнуг считает,
что подобные «необычные сочетания
становятся узнаваемыми»: «Неожиданный
элемент зачастую делает дизайн эффектным,
мгновенно привлекая внимание. Я надеюсь,
что когда кто-то берет эту ручку, он или она
думает: «Я откуда-то ее уже знаю. Мне уже
наверняка приходилось ей пользоваться». Если
так происходит, значит, у продукта есть душа.
Красивые вещи не должны быть слишком
нарочитыми, чтобы притягивать взгляды».
Вряд ли можно вообразить нечто более
простое и элегантное, чем карандаш. Может
показаться, что в эпоху сенсорных экранов
столь скромная вещь больше не актуальна,
но это не так. Кароль Хюбшер, управляющий
директор семейного предприятия Caran d’Ache
со 100-летней историей, отмечает: продажи
карандашей, и простых, и цветных, сейчас на
подъеме. Все производственные мощности
Caran d’Ache сконцентрированы в одном
месте неподалеку от Женевы, а продукция
может составить достойную конкуренцию
Prodir. Например, сменный стержень для
ручек Goliath позволит написать непрерывную
строку длиной около 8 км. Однако по-
настоящему мировую славу компании Caran
d’Ache принесли карандаши: к производству
globalblue.com
54
этих базовых инструментов для письма
она подходит со знаменитой швейцарской
точностью. Возможно, поэтому Пикассо и
Миро так любили эту марку.
«Карандаш не исчез из нашей жизни, -
размышляет Хюбшер. - С ним вы творите
руками, активируя прямую связь между
мозгом и бумагой. И я думаю, что в этом
есть нечто особенное. Кроме того, планшеты
и смартфоны — сравнительно новое явление,
а карандаши остаются авторитетной
технологией на протяжении многих,
многих лет».
И эта технология требует специальных
материалов: например, калифорнийский
кедр не раскалывается при заточке и приятно
пахнет. Caran d’Ache прорабатывает идею
естественных ароматов, выпуская карандаши
из темного швейцарского дерева с необычным
запахом дыма.
Технологических нюансов множество:
например, глина и специальный пигмент
вымачиваются в специальном масле, чтобы
карандаш оставлял след на бумаге. Формула
этого масла и другие профессиональные
процессы остаются производственной тайной.
«Даже ребенок знает, что такое хороший
карандаш. Это просто нужно прочувствовать.
Есть вещи, познать которые можно только
через негативный опыт, - говорит Хюбшер.
- Производство карандашей похоже на
кулинарию: невозможно готовить прекрасное
блюдо из посредственных ингредиентов».
По ее словам, формула масла для этого
бренда вырабатывалась десятилетиями: «Это
наше ноу-хау: перечень компонентов, время
погружения различных видов графита в
состав, замена масла. Как это часто бывает
в Швейцарии, качественный результат
получается благодаря знаниям и наблюдениям,
полученным в результате многолетнего опыта».
wagnerswitzerland.com, prodir.com,carandache.com
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вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных
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52: When You Shop The World,
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OT
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LIN
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55
瑞士人的独到匠心与精湛工艺绝不只限于腕表与时
钟，他们打造的钢笔与书写工具同样创意卓绝，令人
赞叹。Josh Sims报道
在钢笔的世界里，瑞士是低调的革新者。或许不少人
把德国视为全球书写工具制造之典范，毕竟百利金
（Pelikan）、万宝龙（Montblanc）、辉柏嘉（Faber
Castell）和Bossert & Erhard等著名品牌均发源于
此。但是，德国以南的制笔业却呈现出一番截然不同
的面貌，出产的书写工具也大相径庭。若是套用人们
对德瑞两国的刻板印象，这就是德国工艺与瑞士设
计的比拼。在瑞士有不少像Wagner这样名不见经传
的制造商，其产品既不因循守旧，价格也算实惠。
就拿普罗迪（Prodir）来说吧。对于自身的瑞
士标识，该品牌表现得颇有些诙谐玩味。品牌的
最新一则通告中提到，瑞士不只是建筑师勒•柯布
西耶（Le Corbusier）的出生地，还孕育了阿尔
30: The Write Place
笔的国度
美文翻译卑斯长号、裸体登山、自成一体的瑞士摔跤术
（Schwingen）以及七十万头奶牛。这则通告
还声明，普罗迪的宗旨便是提供“精美的设计、
耐用的可替换笔芯与实惠的价格”，并奉行简洁
为美的设计原则与“简约至极”的金科玉律。这
些理念在普罗迪新款DS9钢笔中展露无遗。这
款钢笔以外部细节设计的混搭（亚光外壳或磨
砂外壳，带有抛光或透明笔夹和按钮）与生僻
颜色的运用（水泥灰、牛仔蓝与日落橙）令人眼
前一亮，更重要的是，它采用了普罗迪独家浮球
笔尖系统。
普罗迪的钢笔体现了笔身外形的细微变化，
令人赞叹：笔尖本是圆形的，随着流线旋转至笔
夹上的按钮，外形却渐渐变成了椭圆。普罗迪
的设计师在细节方面经过了深思熟虑，品牌网
站也表示“笔夹和笔帽之间非对称的连接部位
略带讽刺意味地打破了原本刻意凸显经典风格
的设计。”谁能想到一支钢笔还能表达讽刺意
味呢？然而，重点在于这些钢笔款式众多，价格
非常实惠。瑞士的大众化设计在这里体现得淋
漓尽致。
普罗迪的设计师Christoph Schnug解释
道，他们想做出“出人意料且具有辨识度的感
觉。一个具有突破性的元素往往能够成为画龙
点睛之笔。这是一个能够立刻抓住顾客眼球的
特色。”他补充说，当一个人拿起钢笔，“我希望
他或她想到，‘我知道这笔是哪儿生产的。我以前
看到过的，不是吗？’这样一来，产品便有了灵
魂。美好的东西不需通过叫卖来吸引注意。”
说起来，还有什么比铅笔更加优雅而简单
呢？在这个触摸屏的时代，要是您认为像铅笔
这样简陋的产品已经风光不再，那您就得好好
想想了。Caran d’Ache是一家拥有百年历史的
家族企业，据该品牌总经理Carole Hubscher
表示，铅笔的销量——不论是彩色的还是素色
的——一直在节节攀升。Caran d’Ache的所
有产品都产自日内瓦城外的同一处工厂，而其生
产的钢笔亦能与普罗迪相媲美：就拿Goliath
笔芯来说吧，它的墨水容量极大，书写距离长达
8公里。然而，Caran d’Ache之所以能名扬四
海，更是因为它把瑞士工艺的精微细致用到了
最基本的书写工具——铅笔的制作上来。或许
这就是毕加索和胡安·米罗等名流都钟爱Caran
d’Ache产品的原因所在吧。
“铅笔的市场还有很大的拓展空
间，”Hubscher说道。“你能用铅笔来进行徒手
创作，从而在你的头脑和画纸之间形成了一道直
接的关联，我觉得这一点有着非同寻常的意义。
另外，平板电脑和智能手机都是相对较新的产
品；反观铅笔行业已经发展了很久很久，有了一
globalblue.com
56
当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时，
环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free
Shopping）为您节约购物开销。
每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global
Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只
是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联
（Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税
过程：
1. 消费购物
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متجر ف أبرز مناطق التسّوق حول العال.ـ 26 مليون مسافر الذين يتسّوقون من دون دفع فلَم ل تنضّم إل ال
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52: When You Shop The World,
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畅购全球，尊享退税
套成熟完善的工艺技术。”
这是一套需要配以专业材料的工艺技术：比如
说加利福尼亚雪松木，这种木材不仅削起来不会断
裂，而且闻起来很舒服。Caran d’Ache还推出了一
款用瑞士黑木制成的铅笔，它有着一种非常独特的
烟熏味，足见他们确是在气味方面下足了功夫。
该品牌的专业工序——比如说蜡质油的配制方
法；粘土和铅笔的色素芯材要被浸泡在蜡质油中，
这样铅笔才能在纸上画出痕迹来——是行业中的不
解之秘。“所有的孩子都知道一支好用的铅笔是什么
样的。你必须去感受它。这是你频频在糟糕的体验
当中学会的那种东西，” Hubscher说道。“制作铅笔
和烹饪有很多相似之处：不够好的食材做不出珍馐
佳肴来。”她补充说，该品牌的炼油配方“是我们钻
研了数十年的专有技术——要放些什么原料，每一
种铅应该浸泡多长时间，多久要换一次油。和许多低
调的瑞士产品一样，这是制造业沉淀多年的专业知
识与专注态度之结晶。”
wagnerswitzerland.com,
prodir.com, carandache.com
هي تكنولوجيا تتطلّب مواداً خاّصة كخشب أرز كاليفورنيا الذي يكن أن يُبى من دون تشّقق وتفوح منه رائحة عطرة. لعبت Caran d’Ache عل وتر الشذا بعد أن قّدمت قلم
رصاص ُصنع من الخشب السويسي الذي تفوح منه رائحة دخان تيّزه.
من بي أسار الهنة عمليات الصناعة التخصصة عل غرار خلطة الزيت الشمعي الذي يغّمس فيه الطي والادة اللّونة الجوهرية لصنع قلم رصاص يخلّف أثراً عل الورق.
تقول Hubscher: “يدرك كّل طفل أي من أقلم الرصاص جيّد النوعيّة. فهم يشعرون به. هذا درس تستقيه بعد أن تّر بتجارب
سيئة. وتضيف: “تشبه صناعة أقلم الرصاص الطهي: ل يكن أن تصنع طبقاً لذيذاً بكّونات سيئة.” إذ تّخضت خلطة الزيت
التي تُستخدم لصنع القلم عن سنوات وسنوات من خبة تنامت مع الوقت. من هنا تّم تحديد مكّونات الخلطة ونوع الرصاص
الستخدم ومّدة وضعه فيها والوتية التي يجب اعتمدها لتغيي الزيت. شأن هذه القلم شأن النتجات السويسية الخرى: هي
وليدة معرفة وانتباه يُكتسبان مع الخبة والتمرّس. ،wagnerswitzerland.com
،prodir.com
carandache.com
+421 232 111 111 or +800 32 111 111
57
ل يقتص البداع والتكنولوجيا ف سويسا عل ساعات اليد والحائط: إذ تُعتب هذه الدولة موطَن أهّم رواد صناعة القلم
Josh Sims وأدوات الكتابة. تقرير
ف عال ابتكار القلم، غالباً ما يتّم الستخفاف بسويسا. بالعادة، يعتب العال أّن ألانيا تتصّدر لئحة أفضل صانعي أدوات
الكتابة ف العال ففيها تأّسست علمات تجارية كبية عل غرار Bossertو Faber Castellو Montblancو Pelikan
Erhard &. لكن عل حدودها الجنوبية نشأ نوع مختلف من
صناعة القلم يركّز عل منحًى آخر من أدوات الكتابة. ولنقل الوضع باللجوء إل الصورة النمطية الوطنية السائدة، يكن القول
إنّه عل هذه الحدود تتبارى الهندسة اللانية مع التصميم السويسي فتُنتج شكات أقّل شهرة عل غرار Wagner أدوات
للكتابة أقّل تقليدية بأسعار جيدة. فلنأخذ الصّنع Prodir عل سبيل الثال. هي شكة
تسخر بلطافة من الطابع السويسي الذي ييّزها. ففي أحدث Le نشة إخبارية لها، كشفت أّن سويسا تشّكل مسقط رأسCorbusier، لكن بالضافة إل ذلك تشتهر ببوقها الخشبي
وبمرسة الناس فيها رياضة تسلّق الجبال عراة وبأنواع مصارعة تُعرف باسم Schwingen وبضّمها 700 ألف بقرة. لكّن النشة الخبارية تكشف أيضاً أّن مهّمة Prodir تكمن ف توفي “تصميم
جيد وخرطوش إضاّف لعادة الستخدام وسعر مغر” وأّن الشكة تعتمد مبدأ “الفضل بالقليل” وشعار “الحّد إل أق” الدرجات”.
تنعكس هذه النقا“ كلّها ف تصميم Prodir الجديد أي قلم DS9. يضّم الخي تفاصيل سطحية دقيقة )بغلف خارجي لّاع
أو غي لّاع ومشبك ُملّمع أو شفاف وجزء ضاغط( ويأت بألوان مختلفة غي عادية )منها الرمادي السمنتي وأزرق الدنيم والبتقال
Prodir الذي يعكس غروب الشمس( وأخياً وليس آخراً نظامللكرة الدوارة العائة.
ما يثي العجاب هو أّن القلم يجّسد تغييات طفيفة ف م بعدما استحال رأسه الدائري تدريجياً رأساً بيضاوياً. شكله، ل سيّ
أول مصّممو Prodir التفاصيل انتباهاً بالغاً، إذ يشي موقع
ترجمة باللغة العربيّة
The Write Place: 30
موطن الكتابة
العلمة التجارية اللكتون أّن “الوصلة غي التكافئة بي الشبك والغطاء جاءت لتسخر من تصميم القلم الكلسيك التعّمد.” من
كان ليعتقد أّن قلمً قد يتضّمن سخرية؟ مع ذلك، يبقى التكيز الساس عل أّن القلم قد ُصّمم بدقّة لكّنه يُباع بسعٍر مغٍر، عاكساً
بذلك أفضل حالت التصميم السويسي الديقراطي. يفّس Christoph Schnug مصّمم Prodir أّن الهدف
الجوهري يكمن ف “الكّونات الفاجئة التي يكن التعرّف إليها. فكّل عنص يكس اللل ف شكل القلم إّنا هو تفصيل يضمن
فعالية التصميم. هي سمة تجذب النتباه ولو للحظة.” ويضيف متحّدثاً عن القلم: “عندما يلتقطه أحد، آمل أن يشعر بأنّه ليس
بغريب عليه وأنّه مألوف بالنسبة إليه.” ففي هذه الحالة، يتمتّع القلم بروح خاصة به. النتجات الجميلة ل تتوق إل الهتمم.”بالفعل، فم القلم الذي يتغلّب عل قلم الرصاص بساطًة
وأناقًة؟ ولكّل من يعتقد أّن الدهر قد أكل وشب عل قلم الرصاص ف عص الشاشة التي تعمل باللمس، لك أن تتاجع عن
تفكيك. بحسب Carole Hubscher الديرة العامة لشكة Caran d’Ache العائلية التي تعمل ف هذا الجال منذ 100
عام، تشهد مبيعات أقلم الرصاص، العادي منها واللّون، ازدهاراً ف الونة الخية. تصّنع الشكة منتجاتها ف موقع واحد بالقرب
من جنيف وهي تصّنع أيضاً القلم لشكات منافسة لها عل غرار Prodir. فخرطوشة Goliath التي تنتجها عل سبيل الثال توفّر
حباً يكفي لرسم خّط عل طول 8 كيلومتات. مع ذلك، تشتهر شكة Caran d’Ache عالياً لنّها تعكس الدقة السويسية ف
أبسط أدوات الكتابة أي أقلم الرصاص. لعلّه السبب الذي دفع بأمثال Picasso وMiró لختيار هذه النتجات وتفضيلها عل
غيها.تشح Hubscher قائلًة: “ل يزال مكان قلم الرصاص
محفوظاً، فهو الذي يساعدك ف ترجمة ابتكارك عل الورق مسّهلً بذلك الرتبا“ الباش ما بي الدماغ والورق، المر الذي أعتبه
مميزاً للغاية. أضف إل ذلك أّن اللواح والهواتف الذكية ل تزال جديدة نسبياً ف حي أّن وجود أقلم الرصاص متّسخ منذ فتة
Pطويلة.”H
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globalblue.com
POSTCARD
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WC
IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN
In 1868 Boston watchmaker Florentine
Ariosto Jones founded the International Watch
Company in Schafhausen, bringing together
inimitable Swiss watchmaking skills and the
best of American production techniques. Jones
was a pioneer in harnessing Swiss watchmaking
expertise with the technological advancements
of the time, revolutionising the world of fne
watchmaking. Located on the banks of the
river Rhine at the edge of the old town in
Schafhausen, the main factory now also houses
the company’s headquarters and museum.
When it opened in 1993, the museum was the
frst such facility for a watch manufacturer in
Switzerland, and it ofers an absorbing insight
into IWC Schafhausen’s history of innovation
and craftsmanship. Today, the company
continues to dazzle the horological world with
new additions to its best-selling collections such
as Portugieser, Ingenieur, Aquatimer, Da Vinci,
Portofno and Pilot’s Watches. th
IWC Schafhausen,
Baumgartenstrasse 15,
8201 Schafhausen,
+41 (0)52 635 6363, iwc.com
* for map go to page 46
WOMEN– MENSWEAR
ZÜRICH WOLLISHOFEN, SEESTRASSE 463ALEXANDER McQUEEN ALTUZARRA AZZEDINE ALAÏA BALENCIAGA BALMAIN
BLUEMARINE BOUCHRA JARRAR CÉLINE DOLCE & GABBANA ETRO GIVENCHY J ITROIS JONATHAN SAUNDERS LANVIN MARC JACOBS MARNI
MIU MIU PETER PILOTTO PROENZA SCHOULER PRABAL GURUNG PRADA STELLA JEAN STELLA McCARTNEY THAKOON THE ROW TOM FORD
JEANS PAIGE R13 SHOES AQUAZZURA GIANVITO ROSSI GIVENCHY PROENZA SCHOULER STALLION BOOTS TABITHA SIMMONS
DESIGNER OUTLET BY TROIS POMMES
As you’re visiting Jelmoli,
⁄
why not explore Zurich!
–
