Embed Size (px)
DESCRIPTION
Â
Citation preview
VIENNA | ВЕНА | 维也纳 | فيينا
VIE
NN
A L
uxu
ry E
ditio
n A
utu
mn
/Win
ter 2015
/16
Page 32
ON THE RISE:
why fashion designers
are falling for Vienna’s
gentle charms
Wien | Basel Bern Davos Genève Interlaken Lausanne Locarno
Lugano Luzern St. Gallen St. Moritz Zermatt Zürich | Berlin Düsseldorf
Frankfurt Hamburg München Nürnberg | Paris | bucherer.com
WATCHES JEWELRY GEMS
VIVE ELLETHE NEW DIAMOND COLLECTION
FROM THE HOUSE OF BUCHERER
An exquisite design inspired
by art deco – a celebration
of beauty and a tribute to the joie
de vivre of the 1920s.
Welcome to Vienna
Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you
discover the very best of this cultured European capital. Vienna has
much to ofer, as our guide on page 41 reveals. Readers who appreciate
cutting-edge fashion will enjoy our feature on the city’s ever-more-
interesting creative scene (page 32), and in this issue we also reveal the
new boutiques you won’t want to miss.
SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader
that helps you save up to 15% when shopping in Austria. We publish
guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international
insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top
global brands you’ll fnd in Vienna. For the very latest information, visit
globalblue.com.
Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card for the
simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand,
and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit
globalblue.com/join.
Emma Cheevers
EDITOR’S LETTER
8
Athens and Thessaloniki
Austria
Austrian Alps
Barcelona
Belgium
Berlin
Cologne
Copenhagen
Чехия
Düsseldorf
Estonia
Frankfurt
French Riviera
دليل ألانيا德国指南
Германия
Gothenburg
Hamburg
Hanover
Helsinki Area
Holland
Istanbul
Italy
Japan
Lake Saimaa
Lebanon
London
Madrid
Malaysia
Milan
Munich
Nuremburg
Oslo
Paris
巴黎
Portugal
Prague
Riga
Rimini and Riccione
Rome
Seoul
Singapore
Stockholm
Stuttgart
Switzerland
Vienna
Vilnius ILLU
ST
RAT
ION
: IS
AA
C B
ON
AN
@GlobalBlue
@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue
/GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu
/globalblue
/globalblue
@shopcontent
CONTRIBUTORS
10
globalblue.com
Theresa Harold
SHOP’s fashion and news
assistant Theresa Harold has
worked in Hong Kong, Macau
and London, covering the
latest in luxury living. She
has interviewed celebrities,
designers, CEOs – and,
memorably, a prince.
Ben Wiseman
Ben Wiseman created this
season’s cover illustration for
SHOP Vienna. His graphic
artwork has previously been
commissioned by Time,
Random House, the New York
Times and Wired, among
others. His clean, stylish and
witty style makes him a perfect
illustrator for this cover,
inspired by our feature about
Vienna’s emergence as an
ever-more-noteworthy design
hub on page 32. It shows
fashionably dressed fgures
encased in bubbles foating
over the city’s historic skyline.
Explore our archive of cover
illustrations at globalblue.com/
covers.
ILL
US
TR
AT
ION
: BE
N W
ISE
MA
N
Harriet Quick
Journalist Harriet Quick
reports on Vienna’s inspiring
creative scene for this edition
of SHOP. She has held senior
roles at the Guardian and
British Vogue, where she was
the fashion features director
for over a decade.
Aaron Carline
New York-born Aaron Carline,
an artworking assistant at
SHOP, is passionate about
editorial design and zine
culture. During his spare
time he can often be found
in vintage clothing stores, or
listening to 1990s hip hop.
PH
OT
O: G
RA
CE
BIR
D
12
SHOP FLOOR
E DI TOR I A L
Editor-in-chief
Emma Cheevers
PU BL I SH I NG
Publisher
James Morris
Online managing editor
Kirsty Welsh
Online production assistant
Marina Nelson
Online writer
Emily Scrivener
Chinese editor
Yuan Fang
Associate Chinese editor
Junjie Dou
Chinese contributing editor
Qingya He
Chinese editorial assistants
Yunhan Fang, Yangzi Liang
Chinese translators
Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi, Aiyang Zou
Russian editor
Anastasia Nemchenok
Russian editorial assistant
Karina Starobina
Russian translators
Diana Fitkulina, Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov
Arabic editor
Haneen Malaeb
Dane Consultancy
Commercial editor
Gemma Latham
Commercial artworking assistant
Samantha Junak
Commercial artworking intern
Kiranjeet Kaur
AVP business development manager
Patrice Janet
Head of digital
Eamonn Leacy
Digital campaign manager
Nina Kobalia
Digital marketing assistant
Anastasia Budieva
Product manager
Devesh Sankadecha
Production assistant
Sammy Ha
Developer
Mohammed Hakki
Digital production manager
Andrew Lugton
Advertising and partnership manager
Riccardo Canini
Distribution and partnerships manager
Lara Osuna
Chief executive officer
Jacques Stern
SHOP is published by Global Blue
Group headquarters
Global Blue SA,Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland
Corporate registration number
Managing editor/
acting features editor
Sally McIlhone
Cover illustrator
Ben Wiseman
Contributor
Harriet Quick
Production editor
Caterina Mazzolai
Acting production editor
Ruairidh Pritchard
Production assistant
Katie Muxworthy
City guide and lifestyle editor
Isabella Redmond Styles
Fashion editor
Ximena Daneri
News editor
Hannah Lewis
Fashion and news assistant
Theresa Harold
Fashion coordinator
Fani Mari
Chief sub-editor
Hester Lacey
Copy editors
Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien
Picture editor
Kirsty Andrews
Creative editor/deputy picture editor
Sarah Beyts
Assistant picture editor
Grace Bird
Picture assistants
Mónica R Goya, Charlotte Rogers
Art direction
Design by S-T
Artwork editor
Simon Thompson
Artworking assistants
Aaron Carline, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala
Artworking intern
Tom Knight
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2015 Global Blue
GL OBA L BLU E AUST R I A
Head of commercial Austria
Jiří Macas
Marketing sales manager
Danielle Willert
Marketing executive
Daniela Puntschart-Infeld
Retail service manager
Hermann Danzmayr
Key account managers
Ursula Bergsleithner,
Felix Camondo,
Petra Singer
Account managers
Wolfgang Gutbrunner,
Mario Kronsteiner,
Thomas Schnötzinger,
Christian Seelos,
Ulrich Tegelhofer
Global Blue Austria,
Zetschegasse 17,
A-1230 Wien,
+43 (0)1 798 4400,
Wien – Kohlmarkt 1 – Tel. +43 (0) 1 535 104 000
CLÉ DE CARTIERNeue Kollektion
cart
ier.
at
CONTENTS
14
Above: the current collection of Vienna-born designer Arthur Arbesser, whose work draws heavily on Austrian culture
p.32
GU I DE
39 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas
of Vienna
E SSE N T I A L S
43 How To Shop Tax Free
The simple steps to saving money on
your shopping
T R A NSL AT IONS
44 Русский Перевод
45 美文翻译
47
SOU V E N I R
48 The essential item to bring home
PRODUCTS
18 Check Out
SHOP selects a standout piece from Vienna
this season
20 Products
Key looks for the season, from fashion and
footwear to jewellery and accessories
N E WS
26 Shop Window
One store not to be missed in Vienna
27 News
Seasonal updates on shops, services and
new products
F E AT U R E
32 Cover Story: In Its Own Fashion
Vienna’s increasingly inspiring creative
community is thriving thanks to the city’s
cultured and relaxed atmosphere, says
Harriet Quick
PH
OT
O: H
EN
RIK
BLO
MQ
VIS
T
18 | PRODUCTS
Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 43
Klimt’s companion and an integral part of
the Vienna Secession movement; the latter
was David Hockney’s muse and the star of
Swinging London. These two diverse women
are represented throughout the collection by
floral prints, butterfly motifs and shades of
gold, ivory and black. th
Valentino Garavani handbag, €3,100,
Valentino, Tuchlauben 5, 1010 Vienna,
+43 (0)1 53500 30100,
valentino.com
* for map go to page 42
FLIGHT OF FANCY
This single-handle bag in nappa leather from
Italian label Valentino’s autumn/winter 2015/16
collection is hand-painted and embroidered
with multicoloured threads to create a pattern
that mimics iridescent feathers. This season
creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and
Pierpaolo Piccioli took inspiration from two
extraordinary women: Emilie Louise Flöge
and Celia Birtwell. The former was Gustav PH
OT
O: V
AL
EN
TIN
O G
AR
AV
AN
I
CHECK OUT
20 | PRODUCTS
1
Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 43
5. Ermenegildo Zegna backpack,
€1,200, Ermenegildo Zegna,
Kohlmarkt 8-10, 1010 Vienna,
+43 (0)1 512 0979, zegna.com
6. Hackett gloves, €175, Steffl,
Kärntner Strasse 19, 1010 Vienna,
+43 (0)1 930560, hackett.com
3. Louis Vuitton sunglasses, €580,
Louis Vuitton, Tuchlauben 3-7,
1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 533 6151,
louisvuitton.com
4. Hermès scarf, €485,
Hermès, Graben 22, 1010 Vienna,
+43 (0)1 532 5656, hermes.com
1. Cos jumper, €99, Cos,
Neubaugasse 11, 1070 Vienna,
+43 (0)1 522 2020,
cosstores.com
2. Lloyd boots, €189.90, Lloyd,
Rotenturmstrasse 13, 1010 Vienna,
+43 (0)1 815 8508, lloyd-shoes.com
IN HIS ELEMENT
Handle whatever the weather throws
at you in this stylish yet practical outft
1
2 5
4
3
PH
OTO
: (4)
© H
ERM
ÈS/V
ICEN
TE S
AH
UC
globalblue.com
SHOP | 21
9. Massimo Dutti coat, €250,
Massimo Dutti, Kohlmarkt 9,
1010 Vienna,
+43 (0)1 535 0488,
massimodutti.com
8. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra
James Bond Limited Edition watch,
€6,100, Omega, Stock-im-Eisen-Platz 3,
1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 0960,
omegawatches.com
7. Marc O’Polo trousers, €99.90,
Marc O’Polo,
Rotenturmstrasse 19,
1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 533 8744,
marc-o-polo.com
6
7
8
9
22 | PRODUCTS
Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 43
PH
OTO
S: (
1) P
IXEL
ATE
IMA
GIN
G; (
4) A
RIS
VEN
ETIK
IDIS
5. Sabrina Dehof ring, €149,
Cadenzza, Kärntner Strasse 53,
1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 6996,
sabrinadehof.com
3. Salvatore Ferragamo shoes, €650,
Salvatore Ferragamo, Kohlmarkt 7,
1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 535 2814,
ferragamo.com
4. Flug Zeug necklace, €49,
The Vienna Globe, Zieglergasse 65,
1070 Vienna, +43 (0)1 522 4257,
fug-zeug.at
1. MiH Jeans dress, €295,
Schneeweiss, Wollzeile 20, 1010 Vienna,
+43 (0)1 916 6416, mih-jeans.com
2. Chanel Rouge Coco lipstick, €34,
Douglas, Kärntner Strasse 26,
1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 9244,
chanel.com
1
THROWBACK
THURSDAY
Take the best of 90s fashion and give it a
modern twist
1 2
3
4
5
globalblue.com
SHOP | 23
4. Rupert Sanderson shoes,
€625, Stef, Kärntner Strasse 19,
1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 930560,
rupertsanderson.com
3. Dsquared2 earrings, €400,
Amicis, Tuchlauben 11, 1010 Vienna,
+43 (0)1 513 2636, dsquared2.com
1. Awareness & Consciousness silk
dress, €365, Awareness &
Consciousness, Lindengasse 25,
1070 Vienna, +43 (0)699 1170 9817,
awarenessandconsciousness.com
2. Swarovski necklace, €349,
Swarovski, Kärntner Strasse 8,
1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 9032,
swarovski.com
GROWN-UP
GLAMOUR
Let your statement jewellery shine
brightly against a low-key dress
1 2
3
4
A fi rst-class shopping experience at attractive prices.
Discover international brands and regional highlights in our Heinemann Duty Free shop at Vienna Airport.
You can look forward to browsing elegant fragrances, high-quality cosmetics, exquisite spirits, fi ne food, regional specialities and you can even save up to 30% with our Special Offers!
Visit us online at heinemann-dutyfree.com
Scan and discover fi rst-class offers.
26 | NEWS
Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 43
PH
OTO
: © H
ERTH
A H
UR
NA
US
FO
R W
OLF
ENS
SO
N. A
LL R
IGH
TS R
ESER
VED
.
VIENNA’S NEW CONCEPT
Wolfensson, a pioneering name on the Graz
fashion scene, has opened a concept store
in Vienna. The frst thing that visitors see
upon entering is a large Jean Cocteau text on
the wall that reads: ‘Style is a simple way of
saying complicated things.’ It certainly seems
apt, given the rough walls, exposed concrete
pillars and minimalist layout of the shop.
Stocking a wide selection of both menswear
and womenswear from established brands such
as Helmut Lang as well as lesser-known labels
including Ziggy Chen, Wolfensson is a must-
visit for fashion lovers. th
Wolfensson, Habsburgergasse 1A,
1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 2200,
wolfensson.com
* for map go to page 42
SHOP WINDOW
SHOP | 27
HIT THE STREET
Austria’s frst Carhartt Work In Progress
store has opened in Vienna. The interior,
designed by Andrea Caputo, has a raw appeal
courtesy of the iron fttings, exposed pipes and
white-painted brickwork, and features pieces
of furniture by Dutch designer Piet Hein Eek
and neon signage by Pietro Sanguineti. The
industrial feel of the space makes it the perfect
setting for the brand’s streetwear-inspired
collections, which are known for their quality,
comfort and durability. The label was formed
in the 1990s as a European spinof of American
workwear company Carhartt, founded in 1889,
and now has more than 60 stores worldwide. fm
Carhartt Work In Progress,
Mariahilfer Strasse 1,
1060 Vienna,
+43 (0)1 953 0336,
carhartt-wip.com
COCKTAIL HOUR
Designed to display
extraordinary coloured
gemstones to their full
potential, this distinctive
Colonna cocktail ring is
the latest piece in Wempe’s
By Kim collection. A
16.83-carat tourmaline takes
centre stage in a rose-gold
setting, while the band is
formed from ten 10.85-carat
tourmalines edged in bands
of rose gold, inlaid with 40
brilliant-cut diamonds. The
technical expertise involved
in creating such a ring
makes this piece a masterful
achievement. Although this
is a colourful and exquisite
piece of jewellery, it is elegant
and doesn’t overwhelm the
hand, ensuring that the
owner will wear it for years
to come. hl
Wempe,
Kärntner Strasse 41,
1010 Vienna,
+43 (0)1 512 3322,
wempe.com
* for map go to page 42
PH
OTO
: (TO
P) M
ATTH
IAS
HO
FFM
AN
N
globalblue.com
28 | NEWS
Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 43
WRAP UP WARM
For luxurious outerwear
with a fashion edge, look no
further than Moncler’s latest
womenswear collection. From
cocoon coats to capes and
bomber jackets, Moncler ofers
a shape to suit every taste and
fgure, but it is the textures
and detailing that take centre
stage here. A subtle colour
palette highlights the softness
of fne wool or the volume of
jacquard on otherwise classic
coats. Deep black is chosen as
the base for bold winter forals
on sporty bomber jackets.
Structured shapes exaggerate
the contrasts of luxurious
fabrics, with jacquard pieces
edged in fur proving a real
highlight. For evening, look
out for the soft wool cape with
foral beading: the perfect piece
to wear over a cocktail dress. hl
Moncler, Kohlmarkt 7,
1010 Vienna,
+43 (0)1 532 0619,
moncler.com
* for map go to page 42
BIK BOK ARRIVES
Norwegian fashion chain Bik Bok has opened its frst
fagship store in Vienna, located on Mariahilfer Strasse. The
brand blends international fashion trends and the sought-after
minimalist style of Scandinavia to create collections that appeal
to style-conscious young women, with everything from timeless
wardrobe staples such as jeans to standout seasonal pieces
including chic party dresses. The new fagship stocks Bik Bok’s
full range of clothing, with stock updated daily, so visitors will
always fnd something new here, or in one of the label’s other
stores in the country. th
Bik Bok, Mariahilfer Strasse 76,
1070 Vienna,
+43 (0)1 7205 68500,
bikbok.com
SHOP | 29
globalblue.com
DRESS TO IMPRESS
A favourite of Austria’s celebrity set, Viennese label Michel
Mayer is known for its modern and elegant womenswear. Its airy
fagship on Singerstrasse provides a suitably clean-cut backdrop
for the brand’s high-quality semi-couture dresses and pret-a-
porter collections, the work of designer Michaela Mayer, who
founded her almost-eponymous brand in 1995. Mayer’s neutral
dresses hark back to an era of ladylike bespoke dressing with
their extravagant tulles and interesting cuts. fm
Michel Mayer,
Singerstrasse 7, 1010 Vienna,
+43 (0)1 967 4055, michelmayer.at
* for map go to page 42
SAY IT WITH DIAMONDS
Inspired by the style of the 1920s, Bucherer presents its
latest collection of fne jewellery, Vive Elle. The art deco-
infuenced range comprises around 20 pieces, including
earrings, necklaces, bracelets and rings. Featuring exquisite
materials such as white gold, platinum and diamonds,
the collection fuses Bucherer’s heritage of excellence in
craftsmanship with the zest for life that characterised the
Roaring Twenties. This show-stopping ring beautifully
embraces the all-out, unashamed glamour of the era. Whether
you’re buying it for yourself or for that special someone, this is
a bold choice that won’t go unnoticed. hl
Bucherer, Kärntner Strasse 2, 1010 Vienna,
+43 (0)1 512 6730, bucherer.com
* for map go to page 42
PH
OTO
: © D
OR
ON
NA
DA
V/L
IFE
GR
OU
P
CHRIST jewellers and watchmakers in Vienna
Vienna International Airport (Shopping Plaza)
Donau Zentrum (Vienna)
Shopping City Süd (Vösendorf)
Jewellery & Watches
International
www.christ.de
CHRIST DIAMONDS �કDŽ200 䒐 CHRIST ϧप刧偹ᖋ㊁ˈ
ҹܼᮄᮍᓣᛳফ�儙⅙
▔垅DŽᖋ㊁ࠊ䗴DŽ
CH
RIS
T ᇞѿ��
08
00
/18
63
20
0˄ᖋ㊁ᴀ㌲㉸�䗮ֵ��
ᖋ㊁ᴀ㌲㉸�䗮ֵ��
0.1
4 ܗܗ
ߚ/䩳ߚ䩳˗
⿏ⅲ����玀�
⿏ⅲ����玀�
0.4
2 ܗܗ
ߚ/䩳˅
ߚ䩳˅
*ଂӋ呥�
ଂӋ呥��** ⱑ㡆ǃᇣݙ╙⠽⡍呡ǃӬ㡃ߛ偉
ⱑ㡆ǃᇣݙ╙⠽⡍呡ǃӬ㡃ߛ偉
PH
OT
O: H
EN
RIK
BLO
MQ
VIS
T
SHOP | 33
FASHIONVienna may not move
at the frantic pace of
other world capitals, but
its gentler way of life is
proving a boon to its
ever-more-interesting
creative community, as
Harriet Quick finds out
IN ITS
OWN
Opposite: Arthur Arbesser autumn/winter 2015/164544
47
/
34 | FEATURES
Above (from lef): view over Vienna from the Burgtheater; Petar Petrov autumn/winter 2015/16 (both)
PH
OTO
: © A
US
TR
IAN
NAT
ION
AL
TOU
RIS
T O
FF
ICE
/PO
PP
HA
CK
NE
R
While Paris, Milan and London remain
the acknowledged fashion capitals
of Europe, Vienna is emerging as
a dark horse on the style map. Designers and
entrepreneurs are fnding that this atmospheric
city, renowned for its museums and cofee
houses and as the birthplace of the infuential
Wiener Werkstätte artistic movement, is a
civilised and inspiring place to work, with none
of the distracting cut-and-thrust of a metropolis.
‘The best aspects of Vienna are not only
the historic and visitor attractions, but a new
modern and dynamic culture that has emerged
within the conservative surroundings,’ says
Petar Petrov, one of a handful of Vienna-
based designers who are making waves on the
international scene.
Petrov, who was born in the Ukraine
and raised in Bulgaria, studied fashion at
the Universität für Angewandte Kunst Wien
(University of Applied Arts Vienna), or Die
Angewandte for short. There he beneftted from
its high-profle roster of tutors, including Viktor
Horsting and Rolf Snoeren of Viktor & Rolf and
Raf Simons, now the creative director of Dior in
Paris. The principles of Viennese modernism,
with its quality materials and purist silhouettes,
have had a profound infuence on Petrov’s work,
brought into sharp focus since he launched his
own label in 2005.
‘A concept of luxury that can be
summarised in a few words does not exist for
me. Of course, luxury fabrics, colours and
materials create the products’ value, but I
SHOP | 35
Designers are finding that this atmospheric city is a civilised and inspiring place in which to work
try to design according to my personal idea
of a modern woman who is both dynamic
and elegant. I love women who play with
feminine elements but also have a masculine
side, and many of my designs are inspired by
men’s wardrobes. What my clients share is
independence, individuality and a taste for the
unexpected.’ In his autumn/winter 2015/16
collection, Petrov works out that delicate
balance in panelled leather skirts, city coats in
powder blue, silk blouse-dresses and sumptuous
furs. Over the years, a host of professional
women has discovered Petrov’s designs,
including leading tastemakers such as Louise
Neri, the director of the Gagosian Gallery in
New York.
Die Angewandte is a fertile breeding
ground for both fashion and art – Helmut
Lang is among its alumni. Up-and-coming
Viennese designer Roshi Porkar is also a
graduate. ‘It is one of the oldest art schools in
Europe and the training is very strong,’ she
says. ‘Vienna does not have a collective style
36 | FEATURES
PH
OTO
: GE
TT
Y IM
AG
ES
FO
R M
ER
CE
DE
S-B
EN
Z/P
ET
ER
MIC
HA
EL
DIL
LS
PH
OTO
: GE
TT
Y IM
AG
ES
FO
R IM
G/P
ET
ER
MIC
HA
EL
DIL
LSidentity, but the artistic nourishment is rich.’
After graduating, Porkar went on to work for
stylist Karl Templar in New York and for Alber
Elbaz at Lanvin; her fascination with three-
dimensional efects and beautiful fabrics also
saw her win the prestigious Chloé Award at the
Hyères International Festival of Fashion and
Photography in 2014.
‘I put a lot of thought into what I do. I
talk to friends and really try and design what
they would like and what I would like to see
rather than follow market trends,’ she explains.
Fabulous silk fringe trousers, camoufage-
print organza kimonos and lacquered evening
trenches are all included in her current
collection. ‘I like the fact that Vienna is not too
young or too hip. You mix in diferent circles.
There’s an Austrian saying that anything that
happens in the world arrives here 10 years later.
But that sense of slowness is appealing,’ says
Porkar.
Arthur Arbesser, who was raised in
Vienna and trained at Central Saint Martins
in London, is another Austrian creative on the
rise. The designer, who launched his label in
Milan in 2013 after seven years at Armani, is
known for insouciant tailoring and is a former
winner of the Vogue Italia/Altaroma Who Is On
Next prize. His collections and presentations
draw heavily on Austrian culture by using loden
fabric, Werkstätte infuences and salon settings.
The cross-fertilisation of artists, designers
and makers – which includes graphic artists,
ceramicists, jewellers and photographers –
means Vienna is a stimulating, but not hectic,
hub. On a pragmatic level, the low studio
and shop rents make the city an attractive
proposition for entrepreneurs. The extremes
Above (clockwise from lef): two distinctive looks from Roshi Porkar; Arthur Arbesser autumn/winter 2015/16; the designer himself
SHOP | 37
of tradition and innovation are also refected in
the retail mix. While the Goldenes Quartier,
part of the city’s Unesco World Heritage-listed
historic centre, ofers a beautiful setting for
big-name fagships such as the likes of Louis
Vuitton and Gucci, the city’s western ‘seventh
district’, Neubau, has become a magnet
for young designer-makers. The friendly,
community-driven area even has its own
website, which promotes local businesses. These
take in everything from Beate von Harten’s
handcrafted rugs and tapestries to Brillen
Manufaktur’s custom-made eyewear and multi-
brand store Arnold’s.
‘It is not the best place for networking, but
that has some positive sides,’ Petrov says. ‘It’s
really very comfortable here.’ And right now,
quality of life is a precious luxury in itself
petarpetrov.com, arthurarbesser.com, 7tm.at
PH
OTO
: HE
NR
IK B
LOM
QV
IST
PH
OTO
: RA
FAE
L Y
HE
RM
AN
GUIDE
GUIDE | 39
Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Vienna with
helpful maps of the main shopping areas, which show key visitor attractions as
well as where to fnd the city’s must-visit boutiques. For further helpful hints from
our well-travelled team and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/vienna.
Above: the magnifcent Hofurg palace, parts of which are now open to the public, was formerly the main imperial winter residence
PH
OTO
: © W
IEN
TOU
RIS
MU
S/M
AN
FR
ED
HO
RV
ATH
A GLIMPSE OF VIENNA
LANDH AUSGASSE
TR AUTSONGASSE
BU
RG
RIN
G
BURGGASSE
VO
LKSGA
RTEN
SCHENKENS
T.
BALLHAUSPLATZ
KIR
CH
BE
RG
G.
NEUSTIFTGASSE
OSEFSGASSE
SIG
MU
ND
SG
AS
SE
HELD
ENPLATZ
LÖW
EL
ST
RA
SS
E
ER
ST
R.
R ATHAUSPL ATZ
R ATHAUSPL ATZ
NFELDER STR ASSE
OP
ER
NR
ING
FELDERSTR ASSE
F
RIE
DR
ICH
-SC
HM
IDT
-PL
AT
Z
R
EIC
HS
RA
TS
ST
RA
SS
E
HE
RR
EN
GA
SS
E
ELISABETHSTR ASSE
LA
ND
ES
GE
RIC
HT
SS
TR
AS
SE
AU
ER
S P
ER
GS
TR
. MU
SE
UM
SP
LA
TZ
T
EINFALTSTRASSE HEIDENSCHUSS
F
RIE
DR
ICH
-SC
HM
IDT
-PL
AT
Z
SC
HM
ER
LING
PL
AT
Z
BR
EIT
E G
AS
SE
FLORIANIGASSE
SCHMIDGASSE
UN
IVE
RS
ITÄ
TS
RIN
G
BANKGASSE
SCHMERLINGPLATZ
HERRENGASSE
RATHAUS
VOLKSTHEATER
MUSEUMSQUARTIER
UNIVERSITY OF VIENNA
IMPERIAL
COURT THEATRE
AUSTRIAN
PARLIAMENT
BUILDING
HOFBURG
PALACE
KUNSTHALLE
VIENNA
Burggarten
Volksgarten
Place Of Interest U-Bahn
40 | GUIDE
VIENNA
ANNAGASSE
SONNENFELSGASSE
SCHWEDE NPLATZ
B
RÄ
UN
ER
ST
RA
SS
E
S
PIE
GE
LG
AS
SE
DO
RO
TH
EE
RG
AS
SE
SE
ITZ
ER
G.
NAG
LERGA
SSE
OPERNRING S
CH
UB
ER
TR
ING
P
AR
KR
ING
K ÄRNTNER RING
PA
RK
RIN
G
SALVATO
RGA
SSE
KR
AM
ERG
.
WOLLZEILE PO
ST
GA
SS
E
WEIH
BU
RG
GA
SSE
JOHANNESGASSE
CO
BD
EN
G.
FLEISCHMARKT
KRUGERSTR A S S E
HA
BS
BU
RG
ER
GA
SS
E
NE
UE
R M
AR
KT
PL
AN
KE
NGASSE
MAHLERSTR ASSE
HE
GE
LGA
SS
E
SC
HE
LLIN
GG
AS
SE
HIMMELPFORTGASSE
SINGERSTRASSE
GR
AB
ENR
IEM
ER
G.
STU
BE
NB
AS
TE
I
BAUERNM
AR
KT
BRANDSTÄTTE
K
OH
LMA
RK
T
TUCHLAUBEN
OP
ER
NG
AS
SE
KÄ
RN
TN
ER
ST
RA
SS
E
SCHULERSTRASSE
RE
ITS
CH
UL
GA
SS
E
WALFISCHGASSE
WIPPLINGERSTRASSE
RO
TE
NT
UR
MS
TR
AS
SE
BOGN
ERG
AS
SE
TIE
FER G
RA
BEN
GR
STADTPARK
STUBENTOR
SCHWEDENPLATZ
STEPHANSPLATZ
VIENNA STATE
OPERA
ST. STEPHEN'S
CATHEDRAL
Stadtpark
page
42
globalblue.com
SHOP | 41
BRÄUNERSTR .
JASOMIRGOTTSTR.
K
RAMERGASSE
GLUCKGASSE
B
RÄU
NER
STRA
SSE
NAGLERGASSE
ANNAGASSE
KOHLMARKT
T
UCHLAUBEN
GOETHEGASSE
HAN
USCHG
ASSE
JOHANNESGASSE
SPIE
GELG
ASSE
S
PIE
GE
LGA
SS
E
DOROTHEERGASSE
DO
RO
THEER
GA
SSE
AM
HOF
LANDSKRONGASSE
PLANKENGASSE
GOLDSCHMIEDGASSE
AU
GU
STIN
ERSTR .
HABSBURGERG .
GRABEN
BOGNERGASSE
TEGETTH
OFFSTR
.
FÜHRICHGASSE
SEIL
ERG
AS
SE
KÄ
RN
TN
ER
ST
RA
SS
E
KÄ
RN
TN
ER
ST
RA
SS
E
BRANDSTÄTTE
S
EITZER
GA
SS
E
BURBERRY ● BREGUET ●
AKRIS ●
TIFFANY & CO. ●DIESEL ●
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ●
TOMMY HILFIGER ●CHOPARD ●
OPTIK PILWEIN ● ANTIK JUWELEN ●
LORO PIANA ●SCHULLIN ●
● CARTIER
● SIEDLER JUW
EILER
● GIORGIO
ARMANI
● J. BERGER BUCHHANDLUNG
● CHANEL
● D’AM
BROSIO
● FOGAL
● GU●
CCISCHULLIN
● LE KIFF
● SALVATORE
FERRAGAMO
● CHEGINI
● HÄM
MERLE
● M
ONCLER
● FREYTAG & BERNDT
● ROZET & FISCHM
EISTER
● SUSANA M
ICHAEL PETKOV
● TIM
E GALLERY
● DOU
●
GLAS
HOUSE OF GENTLEMEN
● LODEN PLANKL
THOMAS SABO ●
DOLCE & GABBANA ●
PRIORITY
● CONCEPT STORE
● W
OLFENSSON
D’AMBROSIO ●
BA
UER
NMARKT
● HUGO BOSS
● MONDIAL
● COS
● TIMBERLAND
Stephansplatz
● BRÜHL & SÖHNE
● ELLA VIENNA
MARC O’POLO ●
PANDORA ●
VERSACE ●
JUWELIER
● W
AGNER
● ROLEX
● GERRY WEBER● STEFANEL
● HUMANIC
● ZARA
● SALAMANDER
● FOREVER 21
● DOUGLAS
● SIR ANTHONY
● D´AMBROSIO
● SALAMANDER
● WEMPE
● CASINO WIENBENETTON
● MEGASTORE
SWAROVSKI ●
DOHNAL ●
SWATCH ●
RADO ●
WOLFORD ●
SWAROVSKI ●
LOBMEYR ●
JUWELIER WAGNER ●
CIRO ●ZAK ●
JUWELIER BUCHERER ●
OMEGA ●
WMF ●
NE
SP
RE
SS
O ●
● POPP & KRETSCHMER
BLACK DIAMOND ●
Peek & Cloppenburg
Steffl
JOSEPH ●
WINDSOR ●
Zum Schwarzen Kameel
VILL● EROY& BOCH
HUGO BOSS ●
THOMAS SABO ●
INKED ●
CECCONI ●
FREY WILLE ●
● R
EPLAY ●
ADID
AS
DOTZAUER ●
BUCHERER ●
● S OLIVER
MICHEL MAYER ●
● S
TIEFELKÖNIG
● SPORTALM
ST STEPHEN’S CATHEDRAL
LOUIS VUITTON ●
ETRO ●
VALENTINO ●
MIU MIU ●
ARMANI ●
PRADA ●
● JIMMY CHOO
● AMICIS (MEN)
● VIVIENNE WESTWOOD●
BRIONI
BAMBINI ●
ROBERTO
● CAVALLI
AMICIS
(WOMEN) ●
PRADA ●
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN ●
SAINT LAURENT ●
GR
AB
EN
● HERMÈS
● KÖCK
● ESCADA
● JUWELIER WAGNER ● ROLEX
● SCHWÄBISCHE JUNGFRAU● NÄGELE & STRUBELL
● SWATCH
LACOSTE ●SALAMANDER ●
WOLFORD ●
MONTBLANC ●MONSOON/ACCESSORIZE ●
KNIZE ●
HELDWEIN ●BALLY ●
IWC BOUTIQUE ●PAUL & SHARK ●
SELECTED STORES
IN STEFFL:
BARBARA BUI
Featured In This IssueGlobal Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
Place Of Interest
Department Store
Restaurant
P.26
P.27
P.28
P.29
P.29
P.18
Golden U area
42 | GUIDE
43
WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD,SHOP TAX FREE
Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.
Spend a minimum of €75.01 and save up to 15% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.
[email protected]+421 232 111 111
When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Ofces.
Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.
1. Shop 2. Claim
4645
47
/
Refund Ofce Details
Vienna Airport:Erste Bank Money Exchange, Terminal 1, DeparturesInterchange Austria, Transit AreaInterchange Austria, Terminal 3, Departures, Non-Schengen AreaInterchange Austria, Terminal 3, Transit/Departures, Schengen AreaDowntown Vienna and Parndorf:Stef , Kärntner Strasse 19, 1010 ViennaGlobal Blue, Parndorf, Designer Outlet Strasse, 7111 Parndorf
globalblue.com
44
TRANSLATIONS
РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД
32: In Its Own Fashion
Своя Мода
Возможно, Вена - не самая оживленная из мировых столиц, но ее выдержанный темп жизни благотворно влияет на развитие интересной творческой атмосферы, – рассказывает Харриет Куик
В то время, как Париж, Милан и Лондон уже давно признаны мировыми столицами моды, Вена, по-прежнему, остается темной лошадкой на карте Европы. Знаменитая своими музеями, кафе и различными творческими объединениями, включая «Венские мастерские», Вена вдохновляет целые поколения дизайнеров и предпринимателей, нашедших здесь укрытие от суеты шумных мегаполисов. «Главное достоинство Вены не только в исторических достопримечательностях, но и в ее современной и динамичной культуре, возникшей из консервативной обстановки», – говорит Петар Петров, один из венских дизайнеров, известных далеко за пределами Австрии.
Петров, родившийся в Украине, но выросший в Болгарии, учился модному делу в Университете прикладных искусств в Вене (Universität für Angewandte Kunst Wien). Здесь его преподавателями были Виктор Хорстинг и Рольф Снорен из Viktor & Rolf, а также Раф Симонс, занимающий пост креативного директора Dior в Париже. Основы венского модернизма с его качественными материалами и пуристскими силуэтами оказали значительное влияние на творчество Петрова, открывшего свою марку в 2005 году.
«Для меня не существует концепции роскоши, которую можно описать в двух словах. Конечно, роскошные ткани, краски и материалы придают изделию ценность, но я стараюсь создавать одежду в соответствии с собственными представлениями о современной женщине, активной и в тоже время элегантной. Мне нравятся женщины, сочетающие в своих
образах элементы женской и мужской одежды, а большинство моих коллекций вдохновлены мужским гардеробом. Всех поклонников моего творчества объединяет чувство независимости, индивидуальности и стремление к приключениям». В своей коллекции сезона осень-зима 2015-16 Петрову удалось достичь удивительного баланса в коллекции, сочетающей кожаные юбки, голубые пальто, шелковые блузки-платья и роскошные меха. За последние годы творчество дизайнера приобрело немало поклонников среди знаменитостей, включая таких законодателей моды, как Луизу äери – директора художественной галереи в äью-Йорке Gagosian Gallery.
Венский университет одинаково популярен как среди начинающих модельеров, так и среди художников, и Хельмут Ланг, как раз, один из его выпускников. Талантливый венский дизайнер Роши Поркар также закончила это заведение. «Эта одна из старейших школ искусства в Европе, и уровень получаемых здесь знаний довольно высок, – говорит она. – Вена не имеет определенного стиля, но является отличным источником для вдохновения». После окончания учебы Поркар стала сотрудничать со стилистом Карлом Темпларом из äью-Йорка и Альбером Эльбацом из Lanvin; любовь к трехмерным эффектам и изящным тканям помогла ей завоевать награду Chloé Award на международном фестивале моды и фотографии Hyères в 2014 году.
«Я тщательно обдумываю все, что создаю. Я общаюсь со своими друзьями и пытаюсь понять свои и их нужды и желания, в отличие от слепого следования модным тенденциям», – поясняет она. Сказочные штаны с шелковой бахромой, кимоно из органзы с камуфляжным принтом и лакированные вечерние тренчи – все это вошло в ее последнюю коллекцию. «Мне нравится, что Вена не слишком молодежная и не слишком хипстерская. Люди вращаются в совершенно разных кругах. Одна австрийская поговорка гласит, что все, что происходит в мире, появляется здесь десять лет спустя. äо это чувство медлительности по-своему привлекательно,» – говорит Поркар.
45
Артур Арбессер, выросший в Вене и закончивший лондонский колледж Central Saint Martins, – еще один начинающий австрийский талант. Проработав семь лет в Armani, в 2013 году дизайнер основал свой бренд, специализирующийся на костюмах. Его коллекции, получившие награду Vogue Italia/Altaroma Who Is On Next, основываются на австрийской культуре с ее традиционным грубым сукном серо-зеленого цвета, а также на влиянии «Венских мастерских».
Гармоничное сосуществование художников, модельеров, графических дизайнеров, гончаров, ювелиров и фотографов означает, что Вена способствует самому широкому кругу творчества, сохраняя при этом спокойную, умиротворяющую атмосферу. В то же время, недорогая аренда студий и магазинов делает город привлекательным для предпринимателей. Бережно хранимые традиции и современные технологии прекрасно сочетаются в сфере розничной торговли. Goldenes Quartier, историческая часть города, занесенная в список охраняемых объектов ЮäЕСКО, сосредоточила на своих улицах значительную часть бутиков знаменитых международных марок таких, как Louis Vuitton и Gucci, в то время, как западная часть города или «седьмой квартал» Neubau – приютил магазины начинающих дизайнеров. éтот район даже имеет свой вебсайт, где рекламируются местные предприниматели. Тут можно найти все, от вязаных ковриков и гобеленов Beate von Harten до оригинальных солнечных очков Brillen Manufaktur и мультибрендовых магазинов, таких как Arnold’s.
«éто не лучшее место для заведения новых связей, однако в этом есть положительные моменты, – говорит Петров. – èдесь очень уютно». А что еще нужно для жизни? Ее качество, вот что по-настоящему ценно.petarpetrov.com, arthurarbesser.com, 7tm.at
Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых
43: When You Shop The World,
Shop Tax Free
Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free
лучших шоппинг районах мира.Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26
миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.
1. В магазинеГде бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки.
2. При выездеВозвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов.
Контакты:[email protected]+421 232 111 111Потратьте минимум €75.01 и сэкономьте до 15% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (äДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.
美文翻译
32: In Its Own Fashion
自得其尚
维也纳的城市节奏也许不似其他国际都会一样狂飙突进，
但其相对温和的生活方式也润泽了一个与众不同、意趣横生
的创意社区， Harriet Quick带您了解
巴黎、米兰和伦敦诚然是久负盛名的欧洲时尚之都，但维也
纳却似一匹黑马，奔驰在风潮前列。影响深远的维也纳工坊
运动就发源于此，当地的博物馆和咖啡店更是闻名世界。设
计师与企业家咸集至此，远离大都会的纷纷扰扰，于这座氛
围独特的气质之都静享喷薄灵感与文明底蕴。
“维也纳最棒的绝不只是历史遗迹和旅游景点。这片
古旧之地也滋养出了充满活力的现代文化。”维也纳本土设
计师、在国际舞台上引领潮流的Petar Petrov如是说。
这位生于乌克兰、长于保加利亚的设计师曾在维也
纳应用艺术大学（Universität für Angewandte Kunst
Wien）攻读时尚专业，该校堪称豪华的师资阵容让他受益
匪浅，Viktor & Rolf品牌创始人Viktor Horsting和Rolf
Snoeren、巴黎Dior创意总监Raf Simons等资深设计人都
与他有师徒之缘。受到维也纳设计界现代主义原则的深刻
globalblue.com
46
影响，自从2005年发布个人品牌以来，Petrov一直致力于对
优质材料和干净轮廓的不懈追求。
“在我看来，三言两语很难概括奢侈这个概念。奢华
的质地、色彩和用料固然能为产品增值，但我总相信，现
代女性应是活力四射而不失优雅的；刚柔并济的女性才更
可爱。我的顾客往往独立而有个性、追求意外之美。”在
2015/16年秋冬季系列中， Petrov以镶皮短裙、粉蓝色城
市外套、真丝女士衬衫和奢华皮草表达了此种微妙的平衡。
多年来，他的设计赢得了众多职业女性的青睐，纽约高古轩
美术馆（Gagosian Gallery）的主管Louise Neri等时尚先
锋都是他的拥趸。
维也纳应用艺术大学这片时尚与艺术的沃土可谓硕果
累累，校友中不乏Helmut Lang这样的大师。维也纳新晋
设计师Roshi Porkar也毕业于此。“这是欧洲最老牌的艺
术院校之一，这里的训练强度极高，”她说道。“维也纳没有
什么统一的艺术风格，却给予了我们丰富的艺术滋养。”毕
业后，Porkar曾先后与纽约设计师Karl Templar和法国
品牌Lanvin设计师Alber Elbaz共事；她的作品体现了对
3D效果和精美织物的强烈偏爱。2014年，Porkar参加法
国耶尔国际时尚摄影节（Hyères International Festival of
Fashion and Photography），一举斩获极富盛名的蔻依奖
（Chloé Award）。
“我设计前总是考虑到方方面面，还会询问朋友们的
想法。我不愿随波逐流，而是要设计出我自己和朋友们真正
期望的作品，” Porkar解释道。她设计的当季系列中，精美
绝伦的绸边长裤、迷彩印花的欧根纱和服、漆制军装风晚
装一应俱全。“维也纳既不会失之轻浮，也不会太过嬉皮，
我喜欢这种涉猎不同圈子的感觉。有句奥地利俗语说：世
间之事，十年后方至此地。但这种缓慢的节奏却是如此宜
人，”Porkar如是说。
在维也纳长大、受训于伦敦中央圣马丁艺术学院
（Central Saint Martins）的Arthur Arbesser也是一
位奥地利创意新星。他以随性的剪裁著称，曾在罗马时装
周（Vogue Italia/Altaroma）斩获“谁是下一站潮人”奖
（Who Is On Next prize）。2013年，已在Armani从业七
年的他创立了极具奥地利风情的个人品牌；他深受工坊运动
之影响，偏爱罗登呢料，富有沙龙文化风范。
维也纳云集了许多画家、陶艺师、珠宝匠和摄影师，这
些艺术家、设计师和工匠间的相互促进使这座城市成为了一
个洋溢着灵感创意而又不致令人狂热的艺术中心。在精明
的商人眼中，维也纳因低廉的工作室和店铺租金而更具吸引
力。从当地零售业格局之中，亦可窥见传统与创新的两个极
致。维也纳有一处名为“黄金区域”（Goldenes Quartier）
的历史中心，位列联合国教科文组织世界遗产名录，Louis
Vuitton和Gucci等奢侈大牌的旗舰店都坐落于此。而城西
的“第七区”诺依鲍（Neubau），则是新锐设计师和工匠
的温床。这片友好的乐土甚至有本地专属网站促进贸易往
来。从Beate von Harten的手工毯、手工织锦，到Brillen
Manufaktur的定制眼镜，再到多品牌商店Arnold’s，这块
小小的地方可谓包罗万象。
当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时，环球蓝
联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为
您节约购物开销。
每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）
获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只是寻找蓝星标志或
者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联（Global Blue）服务，然后遵
循我们简单的退税过程：
1. 消费购物
无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格（Global
Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小票。
2. 申请退税
当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台请他们
在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联的退税点领取
您的退税款。
联系方式：
+421 232 111 111
最低消费€75.01即可节约高达购买价格15%的税。请注意：
最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管理手续费。部分
机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取现金退税手续费。
43: When You Shop The World,
Shop Tax Free
畅购全球，尊享退税
“维也纳并非联网合作的最佳地点，但她也有自己的优
点，”Petrov说道。“这是一个非常舒适宜人的地方。”而如
今，生活质量本身就已经是珍稀的奢侈品了。
petarpetrov.com, arthurarbesser.com, 7tm.at
1. تسّوقأينم تسّوقت، أطلب الحصول عل طلب استداد الضيبة الخاّص
بغلوبل بلو Global Blue وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت.
2. أطلبف طريق العودة إل وطنك، أقصد مكتب الجمرك عند نقطة الغادرة
لتتم الصادقة عل إيصالتك قبل قبض الستداد من أحد مكاتب الستداد الخاّصة بنا.
للتّصال:[email protected]
+421 232 111 111
أنفق حّداً أدن قدره 75.01€ واّدخر حتّى %15 من ثن مشتياتك. يشمل مبلغ الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضيبة
عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم إداري. ف بعض الطارات، يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي عل كل طلب استداد ضيبة ف حال رغبت بالحصول
عل استداد فوري نقدي.
47
ترجمة باللغة العربيّة
In Its Own Fashion: 32
أسلوٌب خاص
لعّل مدينة فيينا ل تتحرّك بالوتية السيعة نفسها التي تتحرّك بها العواصم الخرى، لكن يبدو أّن الحياة الساكنة التي تؤّمنها تشّكل نعمًة
للمبدعي الخلقي فيها. Harriet Quick تكشف عن التفاصيل.
فيم تبقى باريس ولندن وميلنو عواصم الوضة العتف بها ف أوروبا، تشّق فيينا طريقها لتثبت مكانتها عل خارطة الزياء. فقد بدأ الصممون ورواد العمل يكتشفون أّن هذه الدينة الغامضة العروفة
Wiener Werkstätte بتاحفها ومقاهيها ولكونها مهد حركةالفنية الؤثّرة تشّكل مكان عمل حضاريّاً وملهمً بعيداً كّل البعد عن
صخب الدن الكتظّة وضوضائها.بحسب وصف أحد الصّممي الذين اتخذوا من فيينا مقراً لهم وبدؤوا يكتسبون شهرة عل الساحة العالية PetarPetrov “ل
تقتص أفضل جوانب فيينا عل العال التاريخية والسياح، فالدينة تزخر بثقافة حديثة وديناميكية تّخضت عن هذا الحيط الحافظ.”
ولد Petrov ف أوكرانيا وترعرع ف بلغاريا وتخّصص ف تصميم الزياء ف جامعة الفنون التطبيقية ف فيينا
UniversitätfürAngewandteKunst Wien العروفة بـ
Die Angewandte. استفاد من نخبة العلّمي الذين درّسوا ف
Rolf Snoerenو Viktor Horsting هذه الجامعة بن فيهممؤسسا دار Viktor & Rolf وRaf Simons الذي يعمل الن مديراً إبداعياً لدار Dior ف باريس. يتجّل تأثّر Petrov ببادئ
الحداثة ف فيينا ل سيّم بالواد الجيدة النوعية والتصاميم التقليدية واضحاً ف عمله الذي بات محّط النظار منذ أن أطلق علمته التجارية
الخاصة عام 2005. “بالنسبة إّ”، ل وجود لفهوم رفاهية يكن تلخيصه ببضعة
كلمت. بالطب“، تساهم القمشة الفاخرة واللوان والواد الستخدمة ف رف“ قيمة النتج، لكّنني أحاول أن أصّمم بناًء عل فكرت الشخصيّة
التي كّونتها عن الرأة الحديثة التميّزة بديناميكيتها وأناقتها. أحب الرأة التي تلعب بأنوثتها من دون أن تخفي جانبها الذكري، فكثية
هي التصاميم التي استوحيتها من اللبس الرجالية. أّما القاسم الشتك بي زبائني فهو الستقللية والشخصية الفريدة واليل نحو
الجهول.” ف مجموعته لخريف/شتاء 2015/2016، توّصل إل فرض توازن دقيق بي تناني الجلد ذات الطبقات والعاطف الطويلة باللون
الزرق الفاتح والفساتي عل شكل قمصان حريرية والفرو الفاخر. عل مّر العوام، تعرّفت نساء ناجحات عل تصاميم Petrov، من بينهّن أفضل مطلقات الصيحات عل غرار Louise Neri مديرة
Gagosian Gallery ف نيويورك.
تشّكل جامعة Die Angewandte أرضاً خصبة للزياء والفّنأيضاً فمنها تخّرج Helmut Lang وRoshiPorkar الصّممة الصاعدة التحّدرة من فيينا. تقول الخية: “ترد هذه الجامعة عل
لئحة أقدم جامعات الفنون الوروبية وفيها التدريب صعب. ل تتمتّ“ فيينا بهويّة تصميم جمعية، إّنا التغذية الفنية التي تقّدمها لك
Karl بدأت العمل لدى الصمم ،Porkar غنيّة.” بعد أن تخرّجتTemplar ف نيويورك ثّم انتقلت للعمل م“ AlberElbaz ف دار
Lanvin. بفضل عشقها للتأثيات الثلثية البعاد والقمشة الجميلة،
Hyères الرموقة ف مهرجان Chloé Award فازت بجائزةInternational Festival of Fashion and Photography
سنة 2014. تفّس قائلًة: “أفّكر كثياً ف العمل الذي سأقّدمه. أتشاور م“
أصدقائ وأحاول أن أصّمم ملبس تعجبهم وتعجبني بدلً من أن أتب“ الصيحات الفروضة عل السوق.” تضّم مجموعتها ساويل حريرية بشاشيب رائعة وأثواباً فضفاضة حريرية بنقشات ظاهرة ومعاطَف
لّاعة أنيقة. تشح Porkar قائلًة: “أحّب حقيقة أّن فيينا ليست مدينة الشباب أو الدينة العصية، إذ تتنوع فيها الجيال. وبحسب
ساوي كّل ما يحصل ف العال ل يصل إل فيينا إل بعد 10 قول نأعوام. لكّنني أرى ف هذا البطء جاذباً فعليّاً.”
بعد أن ترعرع Arthur Arbesser ف فيينا وتدرّب ف Central Saint Martins ف لندن، بات اسمه مدرجاً عل لئحة
الصممي النمساويي الصاعدين. أطلق علمته التجارية ف ميلنو سنة 2013 بعد أن عمل 7 أعوام ف دار Armani. يشتهر بخياطته التي تعكس ل مبالة جاذبة وفاز بجائزة Who Is On Next من Vogue Italia/Altaroma. تعكس مجموعاته وعروضه الثقافة
النمساوية فهو يستخدم نسيجاً مقاوماً للمء ويستوحي تصاميمه .Werkstätte وزينة الصالت من فّن
باختطلط الفناني م“ الصممي والصانعي ف فيينا– بن فيهم مصممي الرسو– والياميك والجوهرات والصورين، استحالت الدينة
نقطة تلٍق مشّوقة لكّنها ل تصبح صاخبة بعد. فعل الستوى العمل، تساهم أسعار إيجارات الحلت والستوديوهات النخفضة ف زيادة جاذبية الدينة لرواد العمل. وتعكس اللبس التي تُباع
بالتجزئة البعد التقليدي والبعد التجدد التناقَضي. وفيم يقّد– محلGoldenes Quartier الواق“ ف مركٍز أُدرِج عل لئحة اليونسكو
Louis للتاث العالي مكاناً رائعاً للعلمات التجارية الكبى عل غرارVuitton وGucci، تحّول حّي الدينة الساب“ Neubau إل
النطقة التي تجذب الصممي والخياطي اليافعي. فللمنطقة الصديقة الرتكزة عل الجتم“ موقٌ“ الكتون خاّص بها يشّج“ الشكات الحليّة.
وتضّم هذه الحلت كّل ما يخطر بالبال بدءاً بسجاد ومفروشات Brillen الصنوعة يدوياً وصولً إل نظارات Beate von Harten
Manufaktur الصنوعة حسب الطلب ومركز Arnold’s الذي
تُباع فيه علمات تجارية مختلفة. تقول Petrov: “ل تشّكل الدينة أفضل مكان لتطوير شبكة
معارفك، لكن لذلك جوانب إيجابية. فالجّو مريح للغاية هنا.” ول شّكأّن جودة الحياة قد تحّولت اليو– إل ميزة بحّد ذاتها.
petarpetrov.com ،arthurarbesser.com ،7tm.at
تقّد– لك غلوبل بلو Global Blue خدمة التسّوق من دون دف“ الضيبة Tax Free لتّدخر الال لدى تسّوقك ف أكث من 270,000
متجر ف أبرز مناطق التسّوق حول العال.فلَم ل تنضّم إل الـ 26 مليون مسافر الذين يتسّوقون من دون دف“ الضيبة من خلل غلوبل بلو Global Blue كّل سنة؟ ما عليك إل
Global Blue أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلووتتب“ خطواتنا السهلة.
When You Shop The World,
Shop Tax Free: 43
عندما تتسّوق حول العال، تسّوق من دون دف“ الضيبة
48 | PRODUCTS
Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 43
SOUVENIR
show for autumn/winter 2010/11; one of its eye
patches also featured in the music video for
Lady Gaga’s Paparazzi. Trained as a goldsmith
and sculptor, Eberharter has garnered various
awards over the years, with the Vienna
Awards for Fashion and Lifestyle naming him
Best Accessories Designer in 2010 and Best
Designer Branding in 2012. th
And I aluminium necklace, €195,
Mak Design Shop, Stubenring 5, 1010 Vienna,
+43 (0)1 7113 6228,
and-i.com
SAY IT LOUD
This statement piece by Viennese accessories
brand And I is made from gold-coloured
anodised aluminium and black elastic. When
worn, the simple prongs of the necklace sit
just above the collar and look stunning against
a plain silk blouse. And I was founded by
Andreas Eberharter in 2001, and came to
international attention when several pieces
were used in Thierry Mugler’s men’s fashion PH
OT
O: F
EL
IX V
RA
TN
Y
SHOPPING IS
BETTER WHEN
YOU DO IT
TAX FREE.
Join Global Blue for free, explore your city, find the best stores, and save money on everything you buy.
globalblue.com/join
MontblancHeritage Chronométrieand Hugh Jackman
Crafted for New Heights
In homage to the European explorerand his need for utmost precision,Montblanc pays special tribute withthe Montblanc Heritage ChronométrieQuantième Complet Vasco da GamaSpecial Edition featuring a full calendarand a blue lacquered constellationaround the moon phase, whichshows the exact same night skyabove the Cape of Good Hopeas Vasco da Gama observedit in 1497 on his frst journeyto India. Visit and shop atMontblanc.com
