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AU
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Page 26
ON THE UP:
Austria’s new generation of
designers is scaling the heights
AUSTRIA | АВСТРИЯ | 奥地利 | النمسا
EDITOR’S LETTER
6
Emma Cheevers
@shopcontent
/globalblue @GlobalBlue
@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue/GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu
/globalblue
Athens and Thessaloniki
Austria
Austrian Alps
Barcelona
Belgium
Berlin
Cologne
Copenhagen
Чехия
Düsseldorf
Estonia
Frankfurt
French Riviera
دليل ألانيا德国指南
Германия
Gothenburg
Hamburg
Hanover
Helsinki Area
Holland
Istanbul
Italy
Japan
Lake Saimaa
Lebanon
London
Madrid
Malaysia
Milan
Munich
Nuremburg
Oslo
Paris
巴黎
Portugal
Prague
Riga
Rimini and Riccione
Rome
Seoul
Singapore
Stockholm
Stuttgart
Switzerland
Vienna
Vilnius
Welcome to Austria
Discover the best of this scenic country with
SHOP. Read about its exciting array of
up-and-coming fashion stars on page 26, as
well as its most interesting concept stores and
much more.
SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free
Shopping market leader that helps you save up
to 15% when shopping in Austria. We publish
guides to over 40 destinations across Europe
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means we are ideally placed to tell you about the
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ILLU
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ION
: IS
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globalblue.com
Pietari Posti
Pietari Posti created this season’s
cover illustration for SHOP Austria.
His exquisite artwork has previously
been commissioned by American
Express, Random House, the New
York Times, the Guardian and
British Airways, among others, and
he is also a long-time contributor to
SHOP. His elegantly quirky style
makes him a perfect illustrator
for this cover, inspired by our
feature about the new generation
of Austrian designers on page 26.
It shows a woman wearing a dress
that has become part of one of the
country’s mountain ranges.
Explore our archive of cover
illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.
Sally McIlhone
As SHOP’s managing editor,
and acting features editor, Sally
McIlhone is in touch with leading
brands, creatives and writers around
the world so that she can stay on top
of the latest styles and designs. Sally
has also contributed to ShortList,
Stylist and Total Film online.
Ginger Rose Clark
Editor and fashion journalist
Ginger Rose Clark studied
English Literature at the
University of Glasgow before
going on to do an MA in Fashion
Journalism at the London College
of Fashion. Besides writing for a
number of publications, she also
works as a fashion stylist.
CONTRIBUTORS
ILL
US
TR
AT
ION
: PIE
TA
RI
PO
ST
I
Kollektionen führender, internationaler Designer für die ganze Familie.
High quality fashion for women, men and children.
мода ведущих интернациональных дезайнеров для вей семьи.
SORELLE RAMONDAInternationale Designer-Mode im TOP SHOP-IM-SHOP
Wöllersdorf bei Wiener Neustadt
auf über 11.000m2
A- 2752 Wöllersdorf
Römerstraße 3-9
Tel. +43 (0)2622 - 42 444
Sattledtauf über 6.000m2
A- 4642 Sattledt
Welser Straße 10-12
Tel. +43 (0)7244 - 8383
GRAZauf über 5.000m2
8054 Graz
Center West
Weblinger Gürtel 25
Tel. +43 (0)316 - 297 000
www.sorelleramonda.at
SHOP FLOOR
10
E DI TOR I A L
Editor-in-chief
Emma Cheevers
PU BL I SH I NG
Publisher
James Morris
Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh
Online production assistantMarina Nelson
Online writer Emily Scrivener
Chinese editor Yuan Fang
Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou
Chinese contributing editorQingya He
Chinese editorial assistants Yunhan Fang, Yangzi Liang
Chinese translators Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi,Aiyang Zou
Russian editorAnastasia Nemchenok
Russian editorial assistantKarina Starobina
Russian translatorsDiana Fitkulina, Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov
Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb
Print Dane Consultancy
Commercial editorGemma Latham
Commercial artworking assistantSamantha Junak
Commercial artworking internKiranjeet Kaur
AVP business development managerPatrice Janet
Chief executive officerJacques Stern
SHOP is published by
Global Blue
Group headquarters
Global Blue SA,
Route de Crassier 7,
CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland
Corporate registration number
5565726923
globalblue.com
Managing editor/ acting features editor Sally McIlhone
Cover illustratorPietari Posti
ContributorsGinger Rose Clark, Maria Kirchen-Hill
Production editorCaterina Mazzolai
Acting production editorRuairidh Pritchard
Production assistantKatie Muxworthy
City guide and lifestyle editorIsabella Redmond Styles
Fashion editorXimena Daneri
News editorHannah Lewis
Fashion and news assistantTheresa Harold
Fashion coordinator Fani Mari
Chief sub-editorHester Lacey
Copy editorsKatie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien
Picture editorKirsty Andrews
Creative editor/deputy picture editorSarah Beyts
Assistant picture editorGrace Bird
Picture assistantsMónica R Goya,Charlotte Rogers
Art directionDesign by S-T
Artwork editorSimon Thompson
Artworking assistantsAaron Carline,Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala
Artworking internTom Knight
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2015 Global Blue
Head of digital Eamonn Leacy
Digital campaign managerNina Kobalia
Digital marketing assistantAnastasia Budieva
Product managerDevesh Sankadecha
Production assistantSammy Ha
DeveloperMohammed Hakki
Digital production managerAndrew Lugton
Advertising and partnership managerRiccardo Canini
Distribution and partnerships manager Lara Osuna
GL OBA L BLU E AUST R I A
Head of commercial Austria
Jiří Macas
Marketing sales manager
Danielle Willert
Marketing executive
Daniela Puntschart-Infeld
Retail service manager
Hermann Danzmayr
Key account managers
Ursula Bergsleithner,
Felix Camondo,
Petra Singer
Account managers
Mario Kronsteiner,
Wolfgang Gutbrunner,
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Global Blue Austria,
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A-1230 Vienna,
+43 (0)1 798 4400,
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1010 Vienna · +43 1 512 2962ecco.com
IN STORE NOWCOME AND SEE OUR
AUTUMN/WINTER COLLECTION
CONTENTS
12
PRODUC TS
14 Check Out
SHOP selects a standout piece
from Austria this season
16 Products
Key looks for the season,
from fashion and footwear to
jewellery and accessories
N E WS
20 Shop Window
One store not to be missed in
Austria
22 News
Seasonal updates on shops,
services and new products
F E AT U R E S
26 Cover Story:
Blazing A Trail
A new generation of forward-
looking Austrian designers
is helping to put the country
in the fashion spotlight. Sally
McIlhone discovers more
32 In Focus: Swarovski
For 120 years, Austria’s
celebrated crystal maker has
been a byword for innovation
and glamour. Ginger Rose
Clark explores the reasons for
its success
E X PE R I E NCE
38 Table Talk
Eating out in Austria means
memorable settings as well
as superb food, says Theresa
Harold
42 Stay In Style
SHOP’s guide to the world’s
most exclusive hotels
GU I DE
47 Maps and guides to Austria’s
top shops and destinations
E SSE N T I A L S
79 How To Shop Tax Free
The simple steps to saving
money on your shopping
T R A NSL AT IONS
80 Русский Перевод
87 美文翻译
97
SOU V E N I R
98 The essential item to bring
home
Above: Swarovski Kristallwelten in Watens
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CHECK OUT
Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 79
14 | PRODUC TS
N13 knows that accessories can
give an eclectic and unique touch
to your appearance, and its store
in Ringstrassen-Galerien has a
variety of options depending on
what look you’re going for. Pay a
visit to browse rings, earrings and
other jewellery pieces inspired by
the latest trends in street style and
catwalk fashion. fm
N13 ear jackets, €119,
N13, Ringstrassen-Galerien,
Kärntner Ring 9-13, 1010 Vienna,
+43 (0)1 907 6737,
n13.at
FINISHING TOUCH
These fower-like rose gold
earrings from Viennese jeweller
N13 will defnitely update your
style this season. Described
as ‘ear jackets’, they consist of
simple studs with ornate back
pieces which extend to frame
the ear from behind, ofering
more or less to the eye as they are
glimpsed from diferent angles.
Vösendorf, SCS, Eingang 3Wien 2, Stadion Center, Olympiaplatz 2Wien 3, Galleria, Landstraßer Hauptstr. 99Wien 7, Mariahilfer Str. 96-98Wien 10, Erlachgasse 92 b Wien 11, Zentrum Simmering Simmeringer Hauptstr. 100 Wien 12, Meidlinger Hauptstr. 57-59Wien 14, Auhof CenterAlbert-Schweitzergasse 6
Wien 15, Lugner City, Gablenzgasse 5Wien 21, FMZ C21 ConsioPrager Straße 286Wien 21, Seyringer Straße 12-14Wien 22, Donauzentrum, Donaustadtstr. 1, Top 52Wien 22, Gewerbepark Stadlau Gewerbeparkstr. ON 10Wien 23, Riverside, Breitenfurter Str. 372
Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 79
MIX IT UP
Make your look unique by creating unusual combinations
1. Airfeld Kos jacket, €549, Airfeld, Kärntner Strasse 51, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)7662 317 5652, airfeld.at
2. Coccinelle gloves, €89, Frechinger, Maria-Theresien-Strasse 22, 6020 Innsbruck, +43 (0)512 582921, coccinelle.com
3. Bulgari watch, €12,500, Koppenwallner, Alter Markt 7, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 842617, bulgari.com
4. Chanel Chance eau de parfum,
100ml, €149.90, Douglas, DEZ, Amraser-See-Strasse 56, 6020 Innsbruck, +43 (0)512 391109, chanel.com
16 | PRODUC TS
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5. Louis Vuitton cuf, €750, Louis Vuitton, Getreidegasse 45, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 841796, louisvuitton.com
6. Salvatore Ferragamo shoes, €650, Salvatore Ferragamo, Kohlmarkt 7, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 535 2814, ferragamo.com
7. MiH Jeans skirt, €455, Schneeweiss, Wollzeile 20, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 916 6416, mih-jeans.com
8. Boss Bespoke bag, €895, Boss, Kärntner Strasse 20, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 1161, hugoboss.com
SHOP | 17
globalblue.com
5
4 7
6 8
Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 79
18 | PRODUC TS
CASUAL MAN
Be stylish, even on your days of, with a leather backpack and a silk scarf
1. Hermès scarf, €485, Hermès, Graben 22, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 5656, hermes.com
2. Dolce & Gabbana backpack, €995, Dolce & Gabbana, Kohlmarkt 8-10, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 3000, dolcegabbana.com
3. Z Zegna coat, from €769, Peek & Cloppenburg, Kärntner Strasse 29, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 8904 8880, zegna.com
4. 7 For All Mankind jeans, €280, 7 For All Mankind, Seitzergasse 3, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 533 7796, 7forallmankind.com
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WIEN · SALZBURG · VELDEN · GRAZ · LINZ · WELS
KLAGENFURT · VILLACH · SPITTAL · RIED · ST. PÖLTEN
KREMS · INNSBRUCK · WÖRGL · TELFS · BREGENZ
BÜRS · ZELL AM SEE · OUTLET PARNDORF
Besuchen Sie uns auf Facebookwww.gerryweber.com
20 | NEWS
Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 79
SHOP WINDOW
provide a stylish counterpoint
to existing features such as the
elegant wooden staircase and
vaulted ceilings. The boutique,
which covers an area of 250 square
metres over two foors, stocks
women’s ready-to-wear, footwear
and accessories, along with leather
goods and accessories for men,
and is a must-visit in Salzburg. km
Prada, Alter Markt 13-14,
5020 Salzburg,
+43 (0)662 848295,
prada.com
* for map go to page 65
PRADA MAKES HISTORY
Prada’s new store in Salzburg,
its frst in the city, occupies an
imaginatively restored 14th-
century building in the historic
Alter Markt. The design, from
architect Roberto Baciocchi – a
Prada favourite – blends old and
new to stunning efect. Modern
elements, including the sleek
steel-and-glass display cabinets,
22 | NEWS
Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 79
NATURAL BEAUTY
Located in the centre of
Innsbruck, Resort concept store
is one of the city’s most intriguing
retail spaces. Founded by Daniel
Matt, who has previously worked
as a designer and a stylist, the
boutique is divided into areas that
Matt describes as ‘theme parks’.
A truly stylish space, Resort ofers
a wide range of cosmetics, yet the
PASSION FOR PERFECTION
Fine jewellery and watch
specialist Schullin has been a
name to know in Graz since 1802,
thanks to its focus on quality,
innovative techniques and designs,
and exceptional craftsmanship.
The family-owned frm, now run
by award-winning designer Hans
Schullin and his children, ofers
its own impeccably made jewellery
collections for men and women,
which are well worth exploring.
Look out, too, for luxury watches
by Rolex, of which it was the
frst licensee in Austria. In the
unlikely event that nothing on
display appeals, it is also possible
to commission a bespoke piece
of jewellery for a truly unique
souvenir of Graz. fm
Schullin,
Herrengasse 3,
8010 Graz,
+43 (0)316 813 0000,
schullin.at
* for map go to page 70
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SHOP | 23
globalblue.com
WELL-TRAVELLED WEMPE
Inspired by some of the
favourite destinations of Wempe’s
creative director Catherine
Plouchard, the Cosmora rings
from the By Kim range are some
of the brand’s most artistic pieces
to date. Plouchard and Kim-Eva
Wempe – the two women at the
helm of this historic company
– are frm believers in jewellery
that fts into a woman’s life, that
is luxurious and beautiful yet
made to be worn. In line with
this philosophy, the three new
rings in this collection, Cape
Town, Tokyo and Route 66, are
exquisite pieces that can be worn
every day. Crafted from 18-carat
white gold and set with diamonds,
the rings are engraved with fuid
lines to represent the natures of
the diferent places that inspired
them. hl
Wempe,
Kärntner Strasse 41, 1010 Vienna,
+43 (0)1 512 3322, wempe.com
* for map go to page 52
store is also dotted with vintage
furniture and luxurious home
accessories, from handmade
tableware to antique-style candles.
Beauty enthusiasts should be
sure to speak to staf about the
amazing range of natural products
available, from both well-loved
names and unknown but excellent
brands. mkh
Resort, Erlerstrasse 10,
6020 Innsbruck,
+43 (0)512 567232,
resort-innsbruck.com
* for map go to page 76PH
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24 | NEWS
Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 79
SAY IT WITH DIAMONDS
Inspired by the style of the
1920s, Bucherer presents its latest
collection of fne jewellery, Vive
Elle. The art deco-infuenced
range comprises around 20 pieces,
including earrings, necklaces,
bracelets and rings. Featuring
exquisite materials such as white
gold, platinum and diamonds, the
collection fuses Bucherer’s heritage
of excellence in craftsmanship with
the zest for life that characterised
the Roaring Twenties. This
delicate bracelet cleverly refects the
collection’s central design element:
a stylised fgure eight. Reminiscent
of the symbol for eternity, it is
derived from the company’s
founding date of 1888. hl
Bucherer, Kärntner Strasse 2,
1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 6730,
bucherer.com
* for map go to page 52
PARK LIFE
Cutting-edge Vienna concept
store Park is now in its second
decade, but remains as fresh and
inspiring as the day it opened. A
haven for fans of contemporary
design, it stocks an impeccably
curated selection of pieces from
brands such as Acne Studios,
Haider Ackermann and Ann
Demeulemeester. As well as
ready-to-wear, there is also
a wide selection of jewellery,
shoes, accessories, art books
and magazines. The store holds
regular fashion shows, art
installations and exhibitions, so be
sure to check the website for the
latest events before you visit. th
Park, Mondscheingasse 20,
1070 Vienna,
+43 (0)1 526 4414,
park.co.at
* for map go to page 56
SHOP | 25
WORD ON THE STREET
Located in Vienna’s vibrant
seventh district, Arnold’s stocks an
extensive range of premium urban
brands. Owner Jakub Arnold, who
was previously a managing director
at Carhartt, has built on his
personal passion for streetwear to
create an exciting retail destination.
The store, which covers 100 square
metres, was previously a tailor’s
shop and clothier; the original shop
front, along with old signs, sewing
machines and a clothes horse, have
been retained and provide a stylish
contrast to the minimalism of the
rest of the décor. International
brand highlights include Wood
Wood, Happy Socks and Edwin. th
Arnold’s, Siebensterngasse 52,
1070 Vienna, +43 (0)1 923 1316,
arnolds.at
* for map go to page 56
globalblue.com
BLAZING
A TRAIL
Austria’s new designers are
determined, confdent and
producing exciting collections.
Sally McIlhone discovers more
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28 | F E AT U R E S
Previous page: Roee autumn/winter 2015/16
Austria is known for its
stunning landscapes
and rich cultural history
– and now, increasingly, as a
destination to watch when it comes
to fashion. Last year’s Métiers
d’Art Paris-Salzburg Chanel
show saw the likes of Pharrell
Williams and Cara Delevingne
descend upon the birthplace of
Mozart, and countless column
inches around the world have been
devoted to Vienna-based Polaire’s
3D-printed shoes.
The country’s next generation
of designers is ambitious and
driven, aware that to be heard
among the fashion chorus they
must strike a powerful chord.
Romana Zöchling of Ferrari
Zöchling is one such designer.
‘After graduating from university
I soon discovered that if I wanted
to make a living in the clothing
industry, my options would be, a)
to leave Austria, or b) to become
a entrepreneur and work 24/7,
saying bye-bye to a steady income,
vacations, free time and sleep,’
she admits. ‘The choice was easy.
The label was established in 2013
in Vienna.’
This desire to chase one’s
dreams at any cost is one
shared by many of Zöchling’s
contemporaries, with brands and
designers working together to
achieve success. ‘Since day one of
Ferrari Zöchling I’ve collaborated
with other Viennese artists, who
also happened to be close friends,
and used pieces of their art for
prints,’ she explains. ‘My social
environment has always inspired
me to create fashion.’
Ferrari Zöchling’s latest
collection ofers beautifully draped
dresses, slouchy tailoring and
androgynous printed sweatshirts,
showing of Zöchling’s varied set
of construction skills, something
that harks back to her childhood.
‘My earliest memories are of my
mother sewing at night and me
falling asleep to that familiar
sound of the sewing machine,’
Zöchling says. ‘That I’ve become
a fashion designer has its origins in
my love of the craft itself.’
When it comes to the future,
/80 87/
97
SHOP | 29
Above (from lef): Romana Zöchling; a Ferrari Zöchling art print; and one of the brand’s draped dresses
Zöchling is keen to showcase
her brand to an international
audience. ‘I have established an
online shop,’ she says. ‘Somebody
is wearing my shorts in Barbados,
which is awesome. I defnitely
want to show my pieces in
diferent countries in the near
future. One goal in particular
is to show my collection at an
Asian fashion week because I’m
fascinated by that part of the
world.’
Vienna-based Alila is another
distinctive Austrian brand,
specialising in upmarket, upcycled
clothing created using mainly
vintage Japanese kimono silks.
‘I started Alila in 2008, based
on my passion for textile art and
travelling,’ says designer Barbara
Lindner. ‘I was constantly buying
beautiful fabrics, so I decided
to create a small collection of
accessories and sell it. It was a
success, which gave me the
30 | F E AT U R E S
Above (clockwise from top lef): Alila bracelets and necklaces; Roee autumn/winter 2015/16; the brand’s founders, Rene Pomberger and Michael Mairhofer
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SHOP | 31
Austria’s next
generation of
designers is aware
that to be heard
among the fashion
chorus they must
strike a powerful
chord
confdence to start my label. Then
I discovered Japanese vintage
garments and fell in love instantly
with the beautiful textiles – which
are now the base materials for my
collection.’
Sustainability is a large part of
the brand’s focus and Lindner is
understandably passionate about
this aspect of her enterprise. ‘I love
to reuse precious fabrics and give
them a new life as contemporary
fashion. Working in a sustainable
way is natural to me. It is not
only about the reuse of vintage or
sustainable fabric, but also about
local and fair production, lasting
quality and timeless styles that
will last many seasons.’ Owing to
the nature of upcycling, Alila’s
collections aren’t produced
according to fashion seasons; they
are trans-seasonal investment
pieces designed to outlive
temporary trends.
For Lindner, the draw of
international catwalks is not so
appealing. ‘As I am producing
one-of-a-kinds on a small
scale with vintage material,
I prefer staying more local
and independent.’ This more
direct way of meeting potential
customers has not hampered
Alila’s success. ‘Recently a
woman from New York, who
saw my collection on her last
visit to Vienna, contacted me to
order a dress for her wedding,’
Lindner explains. ‘I also travel
with the collection, selling in other
European countries including
Germany and Switzerland.
Currently I am working on
increasing the network of shops
and outlets that sell my collection,
not only in Austria but further
afeld.’
Roee is another Austrian
brand with its sights set on world
domination. Its latest collection
contains functional coat-dresses
and is inspired by Terry Gilliam’s
dystopian fantasy flm Brazil.
Designer Rene Pomberger doesn’t
believe that the label’s Austrian
roots will hinder its success.
‘In the globalised world
it is difcult to start from
anywhere, but the internet
makes it much simpler to cross
borders,’ Pomberger explains.
‘The Austrian fashion scene is
growing and growing.’ In the
face of this expansion, Austria’s
designers remain confdent.
Pomberger continues, ‘Our plans
are to strengthen the brand and,
in few years, when our name is
renowned, we will go to the big
fashion weeks…’
ferrarizoechling.com,
alila.at, roee.cc
IN FOCUS:
SWAROVSKI PH
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For 120 years, Austria’s most celebrated name in crystal making has been a byword for innovation and glamour. Ginger Rose Clark looks at the reasons for its sparkling success
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34 | F E AT U R E S
Audrey Hepburn’s tiara in
Breakfast at Tifany’s,
Michael Jackson’s 1984
Victory Tour glove, the bejewelled
sheer dress that Rihanna wore in
2014 to the Council of Fashion
Designers of America awards:
these iconic pieces are just a small
part of the legacy of world-famous
Austrian brand Swarovski, which
celebrates its 120th anniversary
in 2015.
To really understand
Swarovski, however, you need to
go back to the late 19th century
and the province of Bohemia,
which was then a hub of the
glassmaking industry. Daniel
Swarovski grew up surrounded
by crystal glass, but it was his
trip to the Vienna International
Electric Exhibition in 1883, at
the age of 21, that really fuelled
his imagination and would be
the catalyst for events that would
change the industry for ever.
Inspired by his visit, and after
much research, Swarovski came
up with a machine that could
cut and polish crystals, replacing
the laborious hand processes
that had been customary until
then. Filled with ambition, and
armed with a patent, the young
man left Bohemia for Wattens, a
market town high in the Austrian
Alps which had the resources,
particularly water power, he
needed to develop his product
further. It was here that he
founded Swarovski in 1895.
Year on year, the company kept
on growing. Another milestone
came in 1913 when Swarovski
Previous page: Swarovski KristallweltenAbove (from top): Rihanna in a crystal-encrusted dress; founder Daniel Swarovski
/83 89/95
SHOP | 35
started producing its own crystals.
The fawless creations caused a
stir, and attracted the attention of
people well beyond the borders of
Austria. Six years later, there was
another signifcant development:
the founding of Tyrolit, a branch
of the Swarovski group that
produces grinding, sawing,
drilling and dressing machinery,
which continues to be a market
leader in Europe. Tyrolit was
followed by Swarovski Optik
(precision optical equipment
such as binoculars) in 1949 and
Swarovski Lighting in 1966. And,
of course, the 1970s gave birth to
the crystal fgurines for which the
company has become so famous.
Swarovski’s relationship
with fashion was fostered early
on in the company’s history,
notably through close and
mutually enriching ties with
Elsa Schiaparelli, Coco Chanel
and later Christian Dior. More
recently, after an introduction in
1999 by Isabella Blow, Alexander
McQueen became the designer
who really helped to introduce
Swarovski to a new, younger
generation with, for example, his
acclaimed autumn/winter 2006/07
Widows of Culloden collection.
Above (from lef): Alexander McQueen collaborated with Swarovski for his autumn/winter 2006/07 Widows of Culloden collection; Hussein Chalayan autumn/winter 2010/11 for Swarovski Collective
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Above (from lef): a 1941 Schiaparelli jacket embellished with Swarovski crystals; chandeliers by Vincent Van Duysen and Zaha Hadid for Swarovski ‘s Crystal Palace project
36 | F E AT U R E S
Swarovski
has become
the ubiquitous
force that has
revolutionised the
jewellery industry,
and so much more
The Swarovski Collective, also set
up in 1999, was a direct result of
the collaboration with McQueen;
in the 15 or so years since it was
founded, collections from more
than 150 established or less well-
known brands have followed.
Fashion aside, the company
has also been instrumental in
supporting innovation in the
world of interior design. For
Swarovski’s Crystal Palace
project, for example, designers
such as Zaha Hadid, Ron Arad
and Tord Boontje have been
invited to deconstruct and
reinvent the traditional chandelier.
With initiatives such as these,
Swarovski is constantly seeking to
push boundaries.
Despite its passion for looking
forward, the brand still takes
its heritage seriously. Swarovski
remains a family business: Nadja
Swarovski is the great-great- PH
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SHOP | 37
granddaughter of the founder
and, along with four other ffth-
generation family members, sits
on the executive board. Swarovski
hasn’t forgotten its geographical
roots either: it still produces
crystals in Wattens where, 20
years ago, the brand also unveiled
its Swarovski Kristallwelten
(‘crystal worlds’) museum to
coincide with its centenary
celebrations. It gives visitors an
insight into the world of crystals,
with exhibits created by artists
and designers such as Salvador
Dalí and Niki de Saint Phalle,
reafrming Swarovski’s ties with
design, art and fashion.
Swarovski is involved
with a host of other projects,
from charitable work through
the Swarovski Foundation
to sponsoring events such as
Design Miami. From a small
family business, Swarovski has
become the ubiquitous force that
has revolutionised the jewellery
industry, and so much more. Its
infuence reaches right into the
world of fashion, art, design and
architecture. Although crystals
are a heritage product, Swarovski
is just as relevant and innovative
today as it was when Daniel
Swarovski turned the industry
on its head in order to create ‘a
diamond for everyone’
swarovski.com
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globalblue.com
TABLE TALK
From private dining in a grand apartment to a meal with a panoramic view, Austria’s restaurants aren’t short on showmanship, as Theresa Harold discovers
38 | E X PE R I E NCE
Of course, choosing where to
eat is just as important as what
to eat. A refned ambience can
make the diference between
an unforgettable evening and a
merely satisfactory one. In recent
years, Austria’s dining scene has
evolved into an exciting, modern
afair. Here, we’ve rounded up
a list of dining options that ofer
more than just good food, whether
that means a memorable setting or
innovative presentation.
While Vienna may be known for
dishes such as Wiener schnitzel
and Sachertorte, Austria’s regions
also have their own culinary
specialities that are well worth
sampling. For example, when
visiting Innsbruck, be sure to
try the Tyrolean bacon, which
is especially delicious fried with
potato and eggs. In Salzburg,
sample the Kasnocken (cheese
dumplings), which are usually
served in soup or with sauerkraut.
SHOP | 39
M 3 2
Located on top of the Mönchsberg
next to the modern art museum,
M32 ofers visitors breathtaking
panoramic vistas across Salzburg.
The interior is as eye-catching
as the view; designed by Matteo
Thun, it features a ceiling display
made from 390 stag antlers,
as well as bullseye lights, bare
concrete and vivid colours.
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The lunch and dinner menus,
which provide a contemporary
take on traditional Austrian and
Mediterranean cuisine, change
slightly every day to make the
most of seasonal ingredients;
or visit earlier in the day for a
memorable breakfast.
M32,
Mönchsberg 32,
5020 Salzburg,
+43 (0)662 841000,
m32.at
40 | E X PE R I E NCE
globalblue.com
PH
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L I C H T B L I C K
Located on the seventh foor of
Innsbruck’s Rathausgalerie, the
elegantly designed Lichtblick
restaurant makes the most of its
position with foor-to-ceiling
windows ensuring 360-degree
views. Visitors will be impressed
by chef Andreas Zeindlinger’s
inventive dishes such as pollock
with spicy cous cous and lime
foam, or Austrian classics such as
roast veal with Styrian horseradish.
Whether you choose to eat in the
restaurant or simply have a drink
in the adjacent bar, the mountains
make a stunning backdrop.
Lichtblick,
Maria-Theresienstrasse 18,
6020 Innsbruck,
+43 (0)512 566550,
restaurant-lichtblick.at
C A R P E D I E M
This hotspot in Salzburg’s historic
centre is a restaurant, bar, lounge
and terrace café in one. One of
the best known aspects of this
popular place is the delicious
bite-sized gourmet food served
in handmade wafe cones. This
novel presentation allows diners
to try a wider range of dishes than
SHOP | 41
M E Z Z A N I N 7
If you’re looking for something
a little diferent, try Mezzanin 7
private supper club. Located in a
beautifully decorated apartment, it
ofers a private dining experience
like no other in Vienna. Available
as a brunch, lunch, afternoon tea
usual. From starters to desserts,
guests can graze on anything from
beef tartare with potato purée and
cress or sea bass with Jerusalem
artichoke to sweet treats such as
vanilla cream, pear and lychee or
plum, pistachio and chocolate.
Carpe Diem,
Getreidegasse 50,
5020 Salzburg,
+43 (0)662 848800,
carpediemfinestfingerfood.com
or dinner, the vintage menu draws
from family recipe books. The
team behind the concept comes
from a mix of fashion, tourism and
hospitality backgrounds, which is
refected in the eclectic interiors
and fun, nostalgic vibe.
Mezzanin 7,
Liechtensteinstrasse 12,
1090 Vienna, mezzanin7.at
PH
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globalblue.com
STAY IN STYLE
The world’s fnest hotels boast desirable locations, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities that range from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spas. SHOP shares its pick of some of the best
42 | E X PE R I E NCE
Work up an appetite by taking
a walk around the lake and
parkland before visiting the
hotel’s acclaimed restaurant,
Seasons, which ofers a menu of
seasonal British cuisine featuring
homegrown ingredients.
Stoke Place,
Stoke Poges,
Buckinghamshire SL2 4HT,
+44 (0)1753 534790,
stokeplace.co.uk
STOKE PLACE
Located less than an hour away
from London, Stoke Place is the
perfect countryside escape. A
17th-century manor house set in
26 acres of parkland, the hotel
ofers six diferent room types,
each featuring a surprisingly
modern décor that manages
to enhance rather than clash
with the historic surroundings.
décor based on rich colours and
luxury fabrics throughout, while
each of the bedrooms features
amenities that include Nespresso
cofee machines, rain showers and
plasma televisions. Be sure to visit
the spa with its Finnish sauna and
Turkish steam room.
The Dominican,
9 rue Léopold, 1000 Brussels,
+32 (0)2 203 0808,
thedominican.be
THE
DOMINICAN
Situated on the site of a former
15th-century abbey in the heart
of Brussels, the Dominican is one
of the city’s most style-conscious
hotels. Once home to neoclassical
painter Jacques-Louis David, the
hotel combines historic charm with
modern elegance. Expect calming
PH
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ST
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E X PE R I E NCE | 43
globalblue.com
44 | E X PE R I E NCE
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the views, while the rooftop pool
is the perfect place to relax. Be
sure to visit one of the resort’s four
restaurants and bars; options range
from a casual pool bar and grill
to a formal dining room serving
innovative Veneto cuisine, while
aspiring chefs can train at the on-
site Sapori Cooking Academy.
JW Marriott Venice Resort
& Spa, Isola delle Rose,
Laguna di San Marco,
30133 Venice, +39 041 296 8111,
marriott.co.uk
JW MARRIOTT VENICE RESORT & SPA
Located on its own private island
across the lagoon from Piazza
San Marco, the newly opened JW
Marriott Venice Resort & Spa is
one of the city’s most romantic
hotels, with its own church for
private wedding ceremonies.
Each room features large picture
windows that make the most of
technology and a level of service
that is sure to impress. The hotel’s
Eru restaurant serves an unusual
menu of Peruvian and Japanese
fusion cuisine, while the ftness
and wellness centre contains the
frst saltwater relaxation pool in
Singapore.
The Patina,
Capitol Singapore,
15 Stamford Road,
Singapore,
+65 6368 8888,
patinahotels.com
THE PATINA, CAPITOL SINGAPORE
The newly opened Patina hotel
in the heart of Singapore’s civic
and cultural district ofers 157
rooms and suites shared between
two of the city’s most signifcant
historical buildings. Its two wings,
the Capitol and the Stamford,
combine features such as high
ceilings with a host of modern
E X PE R I E NCE | 45
GUIDE
GU I DE
| 47
Above: the atmospheric Christmas market on Vienna’s Rathausplatz
PH
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KR
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PA
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Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Austria with a look at the country’s must-visit destinations, from festive seasonal markets to an atmospheric fortress. Start with SHOP’s highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/austria.
A GLIMPSE OF AUSTRIA
48
| GU I DE
VIENNA
Place Of Interest
LANDH AUSGASSE
BU
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EINFALTSTRASSE HEIDENSCHUSS
BOGNERGASSE
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HERRENGASSE
RATHAUS
VOLKSTHEATER
MUSEUMSQUARTIER
UNIVERSITY OF VIENNA
IMPERIAL
COURT THEATRE
AUSTRIAN
PARLIAMENT
BUILDING
HOFBURG
PALACE
Burggarten
Volksgarten
NATURHISTORISCHES
MUSEUM
KUNSTHISTORISCHES
MUSEUM
MUMOK
SECESSION
U-Bahn Featured In This Issue
page 52
2
page 56
SHOP
| 49
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KR
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KRUGERSTR AS S E
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MAHLERSTR ASSE
HIMMELPFORTGASSE
SINGERSTRASSE
GR
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BAUERNM
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WALFISCHGASSE
K ÄRNTNER RING
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TUCHLAUBEN
AB
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WEIHBURGGASSE
STEPHANSPLATZ
KARLSPLATZ
VIENNA STATE
OPERA
ST. STEPHEN'S
CATHEDRAL
page 53
page
52
4
Ambroso
Sample Ambroso’s delicious
organic honey, which is produced
in a Unesco Biosphere Reserve
just outside Vienna.
Julius Meinl, Graben 19, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 3334, ambroso.at
* featured on page 98
2 Park
Find the latest fashions from
hip designers such as Haider
Ackermann at Vienna’s trendy
Park concept store.
Park, Mondscheingasse 20, 1070 Vienna, +43 (0)1 526 4414, park.co.at
* featured on page 24
3 N13
Discover the exquisite designs
of Viennese jeweller N13 at its
newly opened store.
N13, Ringstrassen-Galerien, Kärntner Ring 9-13, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 907 6737, n13.at
* featured on page 14
4 Swarovski
Revel in all that glitters at
Swarovski’s Vienna flagship store.
Swarovski, Kärntner Strasse 24, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 324 0000, swarovski.com
* featured on page 32
SHOP HIGHLIGHTS
4
3
2
1
globalblue.com
1
3
MOMENTS OF WONDER
OPEN DAILY FROM
8.00 AM TO 7.30 PM
Herzog-Friedrich-Straße 39
6020 Innsbruck, Austria
www.swarovski.com/innsbruck
52
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Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
Kohlmarkt, Naglergasse, Wallnerstrasse, Habsburgergasse & Kärntner Strasse
Place Of Interest
Department Store
Featured In This Issue
GLUCKGASSE
BRÄUNERSTR .
JASOMIRGOTTSTR .
BR
ÄUN
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ASSE
NAGLERGASSE
ANNAGASSE
GOETHEGASSE
BOGNERG.
HAN
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JOHANNESGASSE
SPIE
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SP
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BRANDSTÄTTE
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OFFSTR
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KÄ
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Neuer Markt
JOS
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WALFISCHGASS E
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GRABEN
STEINDLGASSE
B
AUERNMARKT
GOLDSCHMIEDGASSEKOHLMARKT
TUCHLAUBEN
KRUGERSTR ASSE
BLACK DIAMOND ●
BRÜHL ●
BURBERRY ●
BREGUET ●
AKRIS ●
DIOR ●
TIFFANY & CO. ●DIESEL ●
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ●
TOMMY HILFIGER ●
CHOPARD ●
OPTIK PILWEIN ● ANTIK JUWELEN ●
LORO PIANA ●SCHULLIN ●
● CA
RTIER
● BREITLIN
G
● G
IORG
IO A
RMA
NI
● J. BERG
ER BUCH
HA
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LUN
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● ●
CH
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D’A
MBRO
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● FO
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● G
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ULLIN
● LE KIFF
● SA
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FERRAGA
MO
● CH
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● H
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● M
ON
CLER
● M
ASSIM
O D
UTTI
● FREY
TAG & BERN
DT
● RO
ZET & FISCH
MEISTER
● SU
SAN
A MICH
AEL PETKO
V
● A
NN
A
● D
OU
GLA
S
HO
USE O
F
● G
ENTLEM
EN
● LO
DEN PLA
NKL
THOMAS SABO ●
DOLCE & GABBANA ●
PRIORITY
● CO
NCEPT STO
RE
● BRÜHL & SÖHNE
● ELLA VIENNA
● GERRY WEBER
● STEFANEL
● HUMANIC
● FOREVER 21
● ESPRIT
● GERSTNER
● DOUGLAS
● SIR ANTHONY
● STREET ONE
● D´AMBROSIO● SALAMANDER
● WEMPE
● CASINO WIEN
BENETTON ● MEGASTORE
SWAROVSKI ●
DOHNAL ●
SWATCH ●
BENETTON ●
PAUL VIENNA ●
JONES GEOX ●
RADO ●
WOLFORD ●
MANGO●
SWAROVSKI ●
DOUGLAS ●
LOBMEYR ●
MARIONNAUD ●
JUWELIER WAGNER ●
TALLY WEIJL ●
DESIGUAL ●
CIRO ●
ZAK ●
JUWELIER BUCHERER ●
● OMEGA● WMF
NESPRESSO ●
CECCONI ●
FREY WILLE ●
DOTZAUER ●
● POPP & KRETSCHMER
SALAMANDER ●
Peek & Cloppenburg
Steffl
MÜHLBAUER ●
JOSEPH ●
● CAVALLI
MIU M
IU ●
● COLLI
HUGO BOSS ●
● AM
ICIS MEN
ZARA ●SISLEY ●
● CHANEL
● LOUIS VUITTON
● PRADA
ETRO ●
BOTTEGA VENETA ●
VALENTINO ●
● SCHEER
● IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN
Shiki
Restaurant
P.23
P.60
P.60
P.24
SHOP
| 53
Graben, Bauernmarkt, Brandstätte, Rotenturmstrasse & Stephensplatz
JULIUS MEINL ● JASOM
IRGOTTSTR.
KR
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ASSE
BO
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BRANDSTÄTTE
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GOLDSCHMIEDGASSEK
OH
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UCHLAUBEN
LOUIS VUITTON●
EMPORIO ARMANI ●
● TIMBERLAND
Stephansplatz
● A
DIDAS
INA KENT ●
● S OLIVER● HERMÈS● KÖCK ● NAPAPIJRI
● ESCADA● SCHWÄBISCHE JUNGFRAU
● NÄGELE & STRUBELL
● SWATCH ●CAMPER
LACOSTE ●SALAMANDER ●
WOLFORD ●
MONTBLANC ●MONSOON/ACCESSORIZE ●
HELDWEIN ●
KNIZE ●BALLY ●
IWC ●PAUL & SHARK ●
MARC O’POLO ●VERSACE ●
● JUWELIER WAGNER
● S
TIEFELKÖNIG
● A
RTUP
● ROLEX
● PANDORA
VIVIE
NNE
● W
ESTWOOD
● S OLIVER
●
VILLEROY●
& BOCH
COS
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EPLAY
OSKA ●
D’AMBROSIO ●
● C
LOSED
● S
PORTALM
● A
MIC
ISST STEPHEN’S
CATHEDRAL
BALLY
The latest womenswear
collection from Swiss brand
Bally is bold and colourful and
takes inspiration from the flms
of director Wes Anderson as
well as the style of the 1960s.
Anderson is known for his
larger-than-life characters,
and the collection is a nod to
his unique leading ladies. The
pieces are carefully considered
yet made to be worn with
nonchalance. Contrasting
colours and textures abound
on A-line silhouettes, bringing
retro references bang up to
date. Combined with Bally’s
classic accessories, including the
timeless Corner bag, this is one
of the strongest collections of
the season. hl
Bally,
Graben 12,
1010 Vienna,
+43 (0)1 513 0550,
bally.com
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56
| GUIDE
Global Blue Retailer
Place Of Interest
Non-Global Blue Retailer Department Store
Mariahilfer Strasse
KIRCHENGASSE
THEOBALDGA
SSE
WINDMÜHLGASSE
S
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AD
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GA
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LAIMGRUBENGASSE
KÖSTLERGASSE
GIRARDIGASSE
LUFTB
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RIC
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STIEGENGASSE
JOANELLIGASSE
LINK
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HERMANNGASSE ANDREASGASSE
ZO LLERGASSE
KARL-SCHWEIGHOFER-GASSE
LIND
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NEUBAUGASSE
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MA
RIA
HILFER STR
ASS
E
PELZHAUS FUSS ●
APOTHEKE ●
SUDWIND ●
LEINER ●
DM ●
RAG ●
SMART PHONE CENTER ●
BAWAG ●
MAJOLIE PARIS ●
BOUTIQUE MIMI ●
AMERICAN APPAREL ●
GALERIE OTTO ●
A1 ●
NEW YORKER ●
TUREK ●
UHREN BOHNEL ●
SALAMANDER ●
TCHIBO ●
WEIN & CO ●
JACK & JONES ●
STREET ONE ●
REITER ●
MERKUR ●
ZARA ●
SATURN ●
BONITA ●
PALMERS ●
PROMOD ●
INTIMISSIMI ●
ESPRIT ●
PUMA ●
S OLIVER ●
THURZO FOR YOU ●
SIX ●
KOMOLKA ● A1 ●
MAX SHOES ●
DOUGLAS ●
PIMKIE ●
VIP ●
ETERNA ●
LADY JAY ●
SWATCH ●
TUREK ●
● BLAUMAX
● HIRMER
● HUMANIC
● KARE
● GRÜNE ERDE
● BIJOU BRIGITTE
ANSICHTS KAUFEN
● WIEN ZENTRALE
● BUTLERS
● INTERIO
● BOSE
● L’OCCITANE
● BRANDY MELVILLE
● ALISA’S
● MANDARINA DUCK
● PULLOVERIA
● BUSSY BUSSY
● BENETTON
● GABOR
● SKINY
● JEANS SHOP
● CLAIRE’S
● WALTER WEISS
● ROECKL
● BILLA
● HUMANIC
● PANDORA
● H&M
● DEICHMANN
● JONES
● VOGUE
● NETZ
● FOREVER 21
● BERSHKA
● LUSH
● ORANGE
● TECNIK MODERN
● SNIPES
● DOROTHEUM
● HALLHUBER
● TOM TAILOR DENIM
● M.GIBIAN
● H&M
● PEAK PERFORMANCE
● H�GL
APOTHEKE
● ZUR MARIAHILFER
● DESIGUAL
● OBERWALDER
● HARTLAUER
● WEIN ENERGY
● 3
● FIELMANN
● CALZEDONIA
● OPTIK CORSO
● NEUNER
ENERGIE /
● KILLAH
C&A ●
LEOPOLD MUSEUM
INA KENT ●
PARK ●
CAMILLE BOYER ●
Peek &
Cloppenburg
Gerngross
● LICHTERLOH
● L
EN
A H
OS
CH
EK
● SAINT CHARLES APOTHEKE
● YOGESH
INA KENT ●
ARNOLD’S ●
P.24
P.25
Featured In This Issue
Bischofshofen, EKZ Karo Bahnhofstr. 4Eugendorf, FMZ, Römerstr. 4Salzburg, Europark, Europastr. 1
Salzburg, Rainerstr. 23St. Johann/Pongau, Stadtgalerie Hans Kappacher Str. 1
48/72 Stunden U-Bahn, Tram & Bus mit mehr als 210 Ermäßigungen
48/72 hours subway, tram & busand more than 210 discounts
WWW.VIENNA.INFO
Erhältlich ■ in Ihrem Hotel ■ in den Tourist-Infos:1., Albertinaplatz, tgl. 9–19 Uhr,10., Hauptbahnhof Wien, tgl. 9–17 Uhr,Flughafen Wien, tgl. 7–22 Uhr
■ in den Vorverkaufsstellen der Wiener Linien (z.B. Stephansplatz, Karlsplatz, Westbahnhof, Landstrasse/Wien Mitte)
■ im Onlineshop, App Wiener Linien
■ in Reisebüros ■ www.wienkarte.at
Available from
■ your hotel
■ the tourist information offi ces Albertinaplatz, 1st district, daily 9 a.m. – 7 p.m.,Main Station, 10th district, daily 9 a.m. – 5 p.m.,Vienna Airport, daily 7 a.m. – 10 p.m.
■ Wiener Linien sales counters (e.g. Stephansplatz, Karlsplatz, Westbahnhof, Landstrasse / Wien Mitte)
■ the Onlineshop, App Wiener Linien
■ travel agencies
■ www.wienkarte.at
€ 18,90
48 h
€ 21,90
72 h
©W
TV
/P
ETE
R R
IGA
UD
©K
UN
STH
ISTO
RIS
CH
ES
MU
SE
UM
, W
IEN
Genießen Sie Wien à la carte –und erkunden Sie die Stadt 48 oder 72 Stunden lang mit U-Bahn, Tram und Bus. Mehr als 210 Ermäßigungen locken: Museen und Geschäfte, Restaurants, Cafés und Heurige. Besuchen Sie das imperiale Wien in Hofburg, Schloss Schönbrunn und Schatzkammer. Schauen Sie bei Klimts „Kuss“ und Bruegels „Bauernhochzeit“ vorbei. Drehen Sie eine Runde mit dem Riesenrad oder mit der Vienna Ring Tram. Und erleben Sie Wiens Konzertsäle.
Übrigens: Pro Wien-Karte fährt ein Kind (bis 15 Jahre, Ausweis!) gratis mit – in U-Bahn, Tram und Bus ...
Savor Vienna à la carte –and discover the city with 48 or 72 hours of unlimited travel on the subway, tram and bus network. More than 210 discounts are available at museums, shops, restaurants, cafés and wine taverns. Soak up the imperial atmosphere at the Hofburg, Schönbrunn Palace and Treasuries. See Klimt’s “The Kiss” and Bruegel’s “Peasant Wedding”. Go for a spin on the Giant Ferris Wheel or take a trip on the Vienna Ring Tram. Experience Vienna’s concert halls.
And that’s not all: one child up to the age of 15 (ID required) per Vienna Card holder is entitled to free travel on the subway, bus and tram network.
Godetevi Vienna à la carte –e lanciatevi alla scoperta della città per 48 o 72 ore con il metrò, il tram e l’autobus. Vi attendono oltre 210 agevolazioni: musei e negozi, ristoranti, caffè e Heuriger. Ammirate la Vienna imperiale al Palazzo Imperiale, al Castello di Schönbrunn ed al Tesoro. Andate a vedere il “Bacio“ di Klimt e le “Nozze contadine“ di Bruegel. Fate un giro turistico con la Ruota panoramica o il Vienna Ring Tram. E non dimenticate le sale da concerto di Vienna.
Tra l’altro: ogni utente di una Vienna Card può portare con sé gratuitamente un bambino (fi no ai 15 anni, documento d’identità!) – in metrò, tram ed autobus...
Savourez Vienne à la carte – et partez pendant 48 ou 72 heures à la découverte de la ville en métro, tram et bus. Et profi tez de plus de 210 réductions dans les musées, boutiques, restaurants, cafés et heuriger. Visitez la Vienne impériale : la Hofburg, le château de Schönbrunn, le Trésor impérial. Allez voir Le baiser de Klimt et Le repas de noces de Bruegel. Montez sur la Grande Roue ou découvrez la ville avec le Vienna Ring Tram. Ou encore offrez-vous un concert dans un des hauts lieux de la musique viennoise.
Bon à savoir : un enfant de moins de 15 ans (pièce justifi cative) accompagnant un adulte titulaire d’une Vienna Card voyage gratuitement en métro, tram et bus.
60
| GU I DE
MAX MARA
Max Mara presents a feminine
yet bold collection this season,
taking much of its inspiration
from images of Marilyn
Monroe in the 1960s. This
concept works beautifully with
the Italian fashion house’s
classic style, which has always
focused on excellent materials
and tailoring. This is a brand
to go to for outerwear, as
some of the season’s best
coats and jackets can be found
in this collection. Soft and
slouchy is a key silhouette
for autumn/winter, and Max
Mara’s contrasts between
ftted separates and loose,
comfortable knitwear make for
one of the most grown-up and
feminine takes on the trend.
Peek & Cloppenburg,
Kärntner Strasse 29,
1010 Vienna,
+43 (0)1 8904 8880,
maxmara.com
* for map go to page 52
PH
OT
O: ©
GO
RU
NW
AY.C
OM
globalblue.com
CHOPARD
Fans of Chopard’s distinctive
Imperiale collection will
be delighted by the recent
addition of a new jewellery-
inspired timepiece, the
Imperiale 36mm Joaillerie.
Its 18-carat white gold case
and mother-of-pearl dial are
both adorned with diamonds,
making the watch perfect for
evening, while the minimalist
grey and silver colour scheme
keeps it looking truly modern:
this is understated glamour at
its best.
Chopard,
Kohlmarkt 16, 1010 Vienna,
+43 (0)1 533 7197,
chopard.com
* for map go to page 52
62
| GUIDE
FA
BE
RS
TR
AS
SE
SCHRANNENGASSE
PARIS-LODRON-STRASSE
WO
LF
-DIE
TR
ICH
-ST
RA
SS
E
BE
RG
ST
RA
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PR
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ST
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H
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.
AUERSPERGSTR.
S TEING ASSE
GISELAK AI
ELISAB
ETHKAI
MÖNCHSBERG
M
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CH
SB
ER
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L
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ER
GA
SS
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LINZER GASSE
K APITELGASSE
HO
FSTALLG
.
M
AR
KA
RT
ST
EG
SC
HW
AR
ZSTR
ASSE
IM BERGSTRASSE
KAIPROMENADE
RUDOLFSKAI
FRANZ-JOSEFS-KAI
GETREIDEGASSE
JUDENG.
GRIESGASSEMÜ
NZ
G.
DR
EIF
AL
TIG
KE
ITS
GA
SS
E
FRANZ-JOSEF-STRASSE FR
AN
Z-JO
SE
F-S
TR
AS
SE
KAIGASS
E
MO
ZA
RT
ST
EG
DR
EIF
AL
TIG
KE
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GA
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UNIVERSITÄTSPL ATZ
RESID ENZPLATZ
SIG
MU
ND
-HA
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NE
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WR
.PH
ILH
AR
MO
NIK
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-G.
SALZBURG CATHEDRAL
MOZART’S
GEBURTSHAUS
SCHLOSS MIRABELL
MUSEUM
DER MODERNE
MIRABELLGARTEN
MOZART-
WOHNHAUS
Café Sacher
Konditorei Ratzka
FESTUNG
HOHENSALZBURGKapitelplatz
Domplatz
Max-Reinhardt-Platz Residenzplatz
Alter Platz
Mozartplatz
Waagplatz
Makartplatz
AlterMarkt
SALZBURG
Place Of Interest Cafe
P.67
Featured In This Issue
Deutschlandsberg, Frauentalerstr. 70Fohnsdorf, Arena am Waldfeld Süd Murweg 13 aFürstenfeld, FMZ Fürstenfeld-WestGrazerstraße 16, Top 11Gleisdorf, Ludwig-Binder-Str. 28, Top 2Graz, Annenstr. 67Graz, MURPARK, Ostbahnstr. 3Graz, Shopping NordWienerstr. 351, Top 1/20Hartberg, FMZ, Im Hatric 8
Kapfenberg, ece Einkaufs-Centrum Wiener Straße 35 a/Top 1/20 Leibnitz, EKZ Basta, Leopold Figl-Str. 1Leoben, Hauptplatz 19, Top N 10Liezen, EKZ Arkade LiezenHauptstr. 30, Top 6Mürzzuschlag, Mürz-Center Grazer Straße 79 bSeiersberg, Shopping City Seiersberg 7/2/5, Eingang DVoitsberg, Kaufwelt RosentalKnappenplatz 15
Innsbruck, DEZ, Amraser See Str. 60Innsbruck, Sillpark, Museumstr. 38Innsbruck West, Höttinger Au 73Kitzbühel, Jochbergstraße 58Landeck, Malserstr. 33
Nußdorf-Debant, Großglocknerstr. 1 aTelfs, EKZ Inntalcenter, Weissenbachg. 9Vomp, An der Leiten 12Wörgl, im Geschäftshaus CENTRAL Bahnhofstr. 27-29
GU I DE
| 65
Alter Markt & Waagplatz Area
GO
LD
GA
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DÖLLERGÄSS
CH
EN
B
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DG
AS
SE
RUDOLFSKAI
RUDOLFSKAI
ST
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BR
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Mozartplatz
Residenzplatz
Alt
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arkt
Rat
haus
plat
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SIG
MU
ND
-HA
FF
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R-G
AS
SE
WAAGPLATZ
JUDENGASSE JUDENGASSE
Waagplatz
RESIDENZPLATZ
Alter Markt
JEANS ONLY ●
ZILLERTALERTRACHTENWELT ●
GANT ●C. DEMZE ●
● F
OR
ST
EN
LEC
HN
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SOUVENÏRMAROJ ●
KOPFBERGER ●
STRANNER ●
● S
. OLI
VE
R●
FO
SS
IL
● D
ALL
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ER
● W
OLF
OR
D
● COLLINS HÜTE● PUUR
● KOPPENWALLNER ROSITA● KÖCHERT ●
NOMINATION ● PANDORA ● PRADA ● PALMERS ● AUGARTEN ● HERMÈS ●SILLAM ●
● ESCADA
● KOPPENWALLNER
● AIGNER
● OPTIK SLATNER
Café Tomaselli
Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
Featured In This Issue
ESCADA
Experimentation with texture is
the key theme at Escada Sport
for autumn/winter 2015/16.
From grey coats with faux-fur
details and patterned knits
in red and cream to white
90s-inspired quilted jackets
with overlaid embroidery and
burnt orange scarves in velvet,
every style is tactile – as are
the brand’s evening looks,
which include sleek black tops
studded with beadwork on the
shoulders, to glamorous efect.
Escada,
Alter Markt 5,
5020 Salzburg,
+43 (0)662 849612,
escada.com
P.20
Cafe
PH
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O: A
LE
XA
ND
ER
PA
LA
CIO
S
66
| GU I DE
Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer Cafe
Judengasse, Sigmund Hafner Gasse Hagenauerplatz & Rathausplatz
GO
LD
GA
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DÖLLERGÄSS
CH
EN
BR
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GA
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RUDOLFSKAI
Alt
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Rat
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plat
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Hag
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erpl
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S
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UN
D-H
AF
FN
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-GA
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JUDENGASSE JUDENGASSE
Waagplatz
CHURFÜRSTSTR.
RESIDENZPLATZ
Alter Markt
● L
AN
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● F
OS
SIL
● D
IE B
RÏL
LE●
RIG
LER
’S●
WO
LFO
RD
S O
LIV
ER ●
A1 ●
ALE
SSI
C ●
RO
SITT
A ●
PAN
DO
RA
●
MANGO ●
UHREN SIEGL ●
● STIEFELKÖNIG
● MAYER
● M
ON
TBLA
NC
● G
EHM
AC
HER
● E
SP
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● B
RO
WN
● L
UM
AS
CH
RIS
TMA
S●
IN S
ALZ
BU
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● B
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GI M
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● LACOSTE● DIVAEC FASHION● & BASICS● CRAI● BOGNER● WINDSOR
G
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& T
HIN
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● S
TEFA
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●
ZIL
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TALE
RTR
ACH
TEN
WEL
T ●
LA
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● HUGO BOSS
● MIA SCHUHE
TEA & CO ●
● MANNER
● LUDWIG REITER
● T
RA
CH
TEN
SC
HA
CH
TNER
● DALLINGER
● SPERL
HÄMMERLE ●
Café Konditorei Fürst
NEW
ON
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SCH
ULL
IN ●
B
RA
UN
●
HUGO BOSS
For autumn/winter 2015/16,
Boss menswear is inspired by
sophisticated winter holiday
destinations – think Aspen,
Colorado, or St Moritz,
Switzerland. As such, the looks
refect outdoorsy elegance.
From padded coats to pure
wool trousers, even the warmest
layers are cut close to the body
for a fattering ft. True to form,
materials are of the highest
quality and range from merino
wool and mohair to the fnest
cashmere. The colour palette
is similarly refned, sticking to
shades such as granite and glacier
blue with just a hint of brick red.
Boss, Rudolfskai 2,
Salzburg 5020,
+43 (0)662 840009,
hugoboss.com
SHOP
| 67
Featured In This Issue
ST
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NG
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SC
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UNIVERSITÄTSPL.
MÜ
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GA
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GETREIDEGASSE GETREIDEGASSE
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ZA
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CLA
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STA
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KIN
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AS
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AU
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HÜ
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RE
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PALM
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DA
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DO
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SA
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DE
NK
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●
Carp
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Getreidegasse
FESTUNG HOHENSALZ-BURG
It’s impossible to visit Salzburg
and not be aware of the
impressive Hohensalzburg
fortress, which overlooks the
city from its hilltop position.
Begun in 1077 and expanded
over the following centuries, it
is one of the largest medieval
castles in Europe. Reached via a
funicular that’s an attraction in
its own right, the fortress – with
its historic interiors, museum
and atmospheric courtyards –
ofers a fascinating insight into
an essential part of Salzburg’s
heritage and culture.
Festung Hohensalzburg,
Mönchsberg 34,
5020 Salzburg,
+43 (0)662 8424 3011,
salzburg-burgen.at
* for map go to page 62
PH
OT
O: ©
AU
ST
RIA
N N
AT
ION
AL
TO
UR
IST
OF
FIC
E/
WE
INH
AE
UP
L W
.
68
| GUIDE
ALBRECHTG
ASSE
FELLINGERG.
LE
ND
PL
AT
Z
MA
RIA
HIL
FE
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TR
AS
SE
FE
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RB
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HG
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D
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GR
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GA
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GR
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GA
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MA
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CH
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JOSEFIG ASSE
K AISERFE LDGASSE
RA
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GA
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CH
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DG
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GA
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SA
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BELG IERGASSE
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KA
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KA
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MURGASSE
HA
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SP
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GA
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CLOCK TOWER
GRAZ ART MUSEUM
MURINSEL
LANDHAUSHOF
Schlossberg
SüdtirolerPlatz
Place Of Interest
GRAZ
page
74
page
70
page
71
SHOP
| 69
ALBERSTR.
H
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DN
GA
SS
E
S AUR AUGASSE
M
AIF
FR
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AS
SE
GLEISDORFER GASSE
GIR ARDIGASSE
DIETR ICHSTEINPLATZKL
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RW
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GA
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REITSCHU LGASSE
TUM
MELPL .
BU
RG
RIN
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BU
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GA
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BÜ
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GA
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BIS
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OF
PL
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BU
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ELISABETHSTRASSE
MANDELLSTRASSE
HE
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GA
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ERZHER ZO G-JOHANN-ALLEE
GL
AC
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TR
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SE
JOANNEUMRING
Jakominiplatz
ST. CATHERINE'S
CHURCH AND
MAUSOLEUM
OPERA
Stadtpark
page
74
page
71
globalblue.com
Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
Sackstrasse, Hauptplatz & Herrengasse
HOFGASSE
STEMPFERGASSE
HE
RR
EN
GA
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FÄRB
ER
GA
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SP O
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SA
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ST
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HA
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TP
LA
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GA
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MURGASSE
ALBRECHTGASSE
LANDHAUSGASSE
SC
HM
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GA
SS
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HA
UP
TP
LA
TZ
HE
RR
EN
GA
SS
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ANTIKES KABINETT ●
KUTTLER PELZE ●
KASTNER & ÖHLER ●
THOMAS SABO ●
BILLA BOX ●
HÄMMERLE ●
GERRY WEBER ●
VERO MODA /
JACK JONES ●
TEZENIS ●
H&M ●
WOLFORD ●
PEARL ●
ARA SHOP ●
WURZELSEPP ●
ADLER APOTHEKE ●
TRACHTENSCHLÖSSL ●
HUBERT AUER ●
BILLA ●
LÖSCHNIGG ●
● 3
● BIG BAR
● HUMANIC
● PIM
KIE
● SCHULLIN
● BONITA
● SALAMANDER
● KLAMMERTH
● M
OTHWURF
● FIELMANN
STEFANEL ●
TAMARIS ●
GRAZ TOURISM ●
MARIONNAUD ●
OPTIK WUTSCHER ●
NÄGELE & STRUBELL ●
DOUGLAS ●
TRIUMPH ●
DAS KLEINE PERLENHAUS ●
JONES ●
HEINDL ●
STEIFELKÖNIG ●
ONLY ●
INTIMISSIMI ●
TCHIBO ●
JUWEILER
● SCHREINER
● BENETTON
● BÄRENAPOTHEKE
● VOGUE
● LIEBESKIND
● CLAIRE’S
● HUT & MODE
● YVES ROCHER
● NEW YORKER
● M
ODA ITALIA
● DIETMAR HAAS
● SWAROVSKI
● GOLDZANDER
● PARFÜMERIE PILZ
● LUSH
● HERMANN W
EIKHARD
● M
ARIONNAUD
● RUEFA
● THE BODY SHOP
● TALLY W
EIJL
● NESPRESSO
● LUDWIG REITER
INTERIO ●
● PALMERS
● TCHIBO
● FERDINAND HALLER
● CALZEDONIA
EIS DEMEL ●
ACCESSORIZE ●
● PALMERS
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bang-olufsen.com
Featured In This Issue
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globalblue.com
Hans Sachs Gasse, Stubenberggasse, Kaiserfeldgasse, Girardigasse, Opernring & Joanneumring
STUBENBERGGASSE
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JAKOMINIPL ATZ
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AISERFELDGASSE
F.AMBERGER ●
TAUSENDSCHÖN ●
● NORTHLAND
● ANDREWS TIES
● BENETTON
● G
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.CC
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●
BU
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MA
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BU
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CELLIN
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COC
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ÖG
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●BER
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PIA A
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●
ANNA MARIA ●
● BIPA
● RIEGLER
● LENA HOSCHEK
● RIEGLER
● KNILLI
● WEIN & CO
HA
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SA
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H&M ●
ZARA ●
HOH ●
NEUROTH ●
BREINEDER GIBISER ●
1. Christkindlmarkt am Hauptplatz
Handmade decorations, toys and more
are the stars at this picturesque and
atmospheric market on the square in
front of the city hall. Don’t leave without
sampling a glass of Feuerzangenbowle,
a fiery, seasonal drink that’s a blend of
mulled wine and rum.
2. Christkindlmarkt im
Franziskanerviertel
The oldest of Graz’s 14 Christmas
markets is wonderfully traditional. The
stalls around Graz’s Franciscan church
sell handmade Styrian handicrafts, mulled
wine, punch and cider, and delicious
regional specialities.
3. Kunsthandwerksmarkt
am Färberplatz
Discover more traditional handicrafts
at this charming market, which offers
delightful creations made from cloth, clay,
wood, paper, wax and glass.
graztourismus.at/advent
TOP 3 … CHRISTMAS MARKETS
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Welcome to
international
fashion and fairShopping at Vienna Airport
www.viennaairport.com
Добро пожаловать
в международную
атмосферу моды и стиляПокупки в аэропорту Вены
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Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
Murgasse, Sporgasse, Hofgassse, Stempfergasse, Raubergasse & Schmiedgasse
Place Of Interest
STUBENBERGGASSE
HOFGASSE
STEMPFERGASSE
HA
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LANDHAUSGASSE
JOANNEUMRING
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JAKOMINIPL ATZ
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PILATUS ●
KÜBECK
MO
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WIESAU
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FIELMAN
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● ROLLETT
● SCALA
FRIEBE ●
GRAZIELLA ●
OPTIK WUTSCHER ●
GLORIETTE ●
HARTLAUER ●
NEOSINO ●
PIERRE GABBIANA ●
OPTIK WUTSCHER ●
DI DONNA ●
GEOX ●
HEINDL ●
DOUGLAS ●
IMPERIO ●
JEREMYS ●
FOOTLOCKER ●
NEW ONE ●
SWATCH ●
SIX ●
ORSAY ●
● MAX & CO
● PURE HOF
● M
ODE AM HOF
● ● ELENI
● WERKSTADT GRAZ
UHRENGALERIE CHRISTIAN SCHÖGL
● ● TIK TAK
●
GRAZIELLA
STYRIA BRIEFMARKEN
● ●
BAZAAR
●
BRANDT
PETER SCALA
●
●
SONNENTOR
WILLY SUPPER
●
●
MONIKA
●
SCHEDIWY
T�UBEL-UHREN
● SW
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● H
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● PILATU
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● H
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● D
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VOG
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● ● VO
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VOG
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BRILLEN THEO ●
BRÜHL ●
ANNABELLA ●
NIVEA HAUS ●
SPIELZEUGSCHACHTL ●
● CAMERA AT SHOP GRAZ
● ANTIKE VIELFALL
● TARRA COLLE
● SEIDL
● LEDER SCHUSTER
● L’OCCITANE
● JACADI PARIS
● ANTIQUITÄTEN BOB
● CITY CLASSIC HANS-SACHS-GASSE
NEUE
GALERIE
Hauptplatz
Tourist InformationGlobal Blue Retailer
Herzog Friedrich Strasse
●
KIE
BA
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GA
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MER ANER STR ASSE
C
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PF
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RIESENGASSE
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BU
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MARKTGR ABEN
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EINWALLER OUTLET ●
● EGGER
● APOTHEKE● VAN LAACK
● CLAIRE’S
● DOUGLAS
● PALMERS
● TIR
OLER
HEIM
AT
WER
KE
● HUMANIC
● TYROLIA
● BONITA
● TCHIBO
● DANTENDORFER
GOLDEN
ROOF
ANNA
COLUMN
● EINWALLER SPORTSMANN
● EINWALLER SPORTSFRAU
● SWAROVSKI
Café Katzung
SPORTALM ●
BLODER ●
HÖBEL ●
STEINBOCK ●
CIRO ●
NÄGELE & STRUBELL ●
SPAR ●
WILHELM ●
MOZART SHOP ●
EINWALLER JOSEF ●
FREY WILLE ●
EINWALLER ANNA ●
PALMERS ●
● TOMMY HILFIGER
● SALAMANDER
JULIUS HAMPL ●
GERRY WEBER ●
GOLDSCHMIEDE NORZ ●
CADENZA ●
MÜLLER ●
GEOX ●
THOMAS SABO ●
Rathaus Galerie
INTIMISSIMI ●
DOROTHEUM ●
BENETTON ●
Kaufaus Tyrol
● COS
● SPORTLER WITTNIG
● LEITNER JUWELEN
HUGO ● BOSS ● DENKSTEIN
NE
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SS
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● M
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NA
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● INTERSPORT
Hotel Penz
HARTLAUER ●
Eduard-Wallnöfer-Platz
Adolf-Pichler-Platz
SWAROVSKI E
NNSMANN ●
PANDORA ●
JUW
ELIER W
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ANN ●
WOLFORD ●
● WEIGAND
● G-STAR SIS
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●● K
IEHLS
● FEINHEITEN
& LA
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MITT ●
NA
RPU
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MOREBOARDS ●HUBER ●
Place Of Interest
Shopping Centre/Mall
Café Featured In This Issue
INNSBRUCK
SELECTED
STORES IN
KAUFHAUS
TYROL:
ACCESSORIZE
BENETTON
BEELINE
CECIL
CROCS
DANILIN
DEICHMANN
DEPOT
DOLCE VITA
ESPRIT
FOREVER 18
G-STAR
HARTLAUER
H&M
HUMANIC
HOME INTERIOR
INTERSPORT
PEEK &
CLOPPENBURG
RESORT
S OLIVER
SATURN
SWATCH
WMF
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SHOPPING IS
BETTER WHEN
YOU DO IT
TAX FREE.
Join Global Blue for free, explore yourcity, find the best stores, and save money on everything you buy.
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WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD,SHOP TAX FREE
Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.
When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Ofces.
Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.
1. Shop
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Spend a minimum of €75.01 and save up to 15% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.
[email protected]+421 232 111 111
Refund Ofce Details
Vienna Airport:Erste Bank Money Exchange, Terminal 1, DeparturesInterchange Austria, Transit AreaInterchange Austria, Terminal 3, Departures, Non-SchengenInterchange Austria, Terminal 3, Transits/Departures, Schengen Area
Downtown Vienna and Parndorf:Global Blue, Stef, Kärntner Strasse 19, 1010 ViennaGlobal Blue, Parndorf, Designer Outlet Strasse, 7111 Parndorf
Salzburg Airport: Salzburger Sparkasse, Departures, Landside
Downtown Graz:Center West Graz - Infopoint, Weblinger Gürtel 25, 8054 Graz
Downtown Innsbruck:Tourismus Information, Burggraben 3, 6020 Innsbruck
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Салли МакИлхоун рассказывает о молодых дизайнерах Австрии – решительных, уверенных и создающих многообещающие коллекции
Идиллические пейзажи и богатое культурное наследие Австрии знамениты на весь мир. Однако в последнее время в списке достопримечательностей все чаще можно наблюдать современную молодую моду.
26: Blazing A Trail
Быть первооткрывателем
РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД
TRANSLATIONS
В прошлом году показ Chanel Métiers d’Art Paris-Salzburg посетили звездные гости: Фаррелл Уильямс и Кара Делевинь прогуливались по Зальцбургу, родному городу Моцарта. Кроме того, в разных точках мира вышли статьи, посвященные венской марке Polaire и ее инновационным туфлям, напечатанным на 3D-принтере.
Австрийские дизайнеры новой волны активны и амбициозны. Они уже знают: чтобы быть услышанными в мире моды, они должны выступить мощным аккордом. Романа Цохлин из Ferrari Zöchling – яркий представитель этого поколения: «После окончания университета я обнаружила, что если я хочу строить карьеру в модной индустрии, то у меня такие варианты: а) уехать из Австрии или б) стать предпринимателем и работать круглосуточно, попрощавшись со стабильным доходом, отпусками, свободным временем и сном, – признается она. – Выбор был несложным: в 2013 году я открыла собственную марку в Вене».
Стремление идти за мечтой любой ценой – вот что объединяет современников Цохлинг. Причем, бренды и дизайнеры готовы работать вместе, чтобы повысить свои шансы на успех. «С первого дня
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существования Ferrari Zöchling я сотрудничаю с другими венскими художниками, по совместительству – близкими друзьями, и использую их произведения для своих принтов, – объясняет она. – Мое социальное окружение всегда вдохновляло меня заниматься модой».
В новую коллекцию Ferrari Zöchling вошли платья с красивой драпировкой, андрогинные свитшоты свободного кроя и с принтами. Все это демонстрирует талант Цохлинг к конструированию одежды, который вырос из ее детства: «Одно из первых моих воспоминаний – как мама шила ночью, а я засыпала под монотонный звук швейной
машинки. Мое увлечение модным дизайном появилось из любви к ручному мастерству».
В будущем Цохлинг хочет вывести свой бренд к международной аудитории: «Я открыла интернет-магазин. Например, кто-то носит мои шорты на Барбадосе, и это удивительно. Я очень хочу показывать коллекции в разных странах в ближайшее время. А особенно интересно было бы выступить на Азиатской неделе моды, поскольку меня просто восхищает эта часть света».
Еще один необычный молодой бренд – венская марка Alila, которая специализируется на одежде из переработанных тканей. Основным источником материалов для нее стали
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японские шелковые кимоно. «Я открыла Alila в 2008 году, следуя за своей страстью к текстилюи путешествиям, – делится дизайнер Барбара Линднер. – Я никогда не могла удержаться от покупки красивых тканей. Однажды я просто решила сделать из них маленькую коллекцию аксессуаров и попробовать продать их. Успех вселил в меня уверенность: пора открывать собственную марку. Я просто
влюбилась в прекрасные ткани винтажных кимоно, и они стали основными материалами в моем творчестве».
Безопасность для окружающей среды также очень волнует Линднер, поэтому экологичность стала одним из центральных аспектов ее предприятия: «Я люблю повторно использовать дорогие ткани, давать им новую жизнь в виде современной одежды. Использовать устойчивые
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32: In Focus: Swarovski
В фокусе: Swarovski
Уже 120 лет знаменитый австрийский бренд Swarovski олицетворяет союз прогресса и роскоши. Джинджер Роуз Кларк рассказывает о пути знаменитого австрийского бренда Swarovski к успеху и безусловному лидерству в производстве хрусталя
методы работы – это так естественно для меня. Речь идет не только о переработке материлов, но и о локальном производстве этичным способом, высоком качестве и вневременном стиле, который будет актуальным долгое время». Следуя принципам устойчивой торговли, Alila не выпускает коллекции к каждому сезону. Линднер отдает предпочтение внесезонным инвестиционным вещам, которые способны пережить сменяющиеся тренды.
В этом контексте для Линднер международные подиумы не так привлекательны: «Я создаю единственные в своем роде вещи маленькими тиражами из винтажных тканей. Поэтому мне интереснее сохранять локальную специфику и независимость». Столь прямолинейный подход к поиску своей аудитории не препятствует успеху Alila: «Недавно одна женщина из Нью-Йорка, познакомившись с моей маркой в свой предыдущий визит в Вену, заказала себе свадебное платье, – объясняет Линднер. – Также я путешествую со своей коллекцией и продаю вещи в других европейских странах, в том числе в Германии и Швейцарии. Сейчас я работаю над развитием партнерства с магазинами и аутлетами, где продается моя коллекция как в Австрии, так и далеко за ее
пределами».Покорить мир стремится
еще один австрийский бренд – Roee. Его новая коллекция включает в себя удобные платья-пальто: в целом она вдохновлена мрачноватым фильмом-фантазией Терри Гиллиама «Бразилия». Дизайнер Рене Помбергер не верит, что австрийские корни марки могут быть помехой его успеху: «В нашем глобальном мире трудно начинать, вне зависимости от места. Интернет помогает с легкостью пересекать границы, – объясняет он. – А австрийская мода сейчас активно развивается».
Стоя на пороге мировой экспансии, дизайнеры Австрии сохраняют спокойствие и уверенность. Помбергер комментирует это так: «В наших планах – укрепление бренда. А через несколько лет, когда Roee станет узнаваемым, мы придем на большие модные недели». ferrarizoechling.com, alila.at, roee.cc
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Вспомним тиару Одри Хепберн в фильме «Завтрак у Тиффани», перчатку Майкла Джексона в турне 1984 года Victory Tour, украшенное кристаллами полупрозрачное платье Рианны, в котором она появилась на церемонии награждения американского советы моды СFDA. Все эти культовые вещи составляют только малую часть блистательной истории австрийского бренда Swarovski, который в 2015 году празднует свое 120-летие.
Чтобы по-настоящему понять Swarovski, стоит мысленно отправиться в Богемию конца 19 века, где процветало стеклодувное искусство. Даниэля Сваровски с детства окружал хрусталь. В 1883 году, когда ему исполнился 21 год, он отправился на Венскую международную электрическую выставку. Это путешествие вдохновило его и стало катализатором дальнейших событий, которые вскоре необратимо изменили целую индустрию.
Проведя масштабное исследование, Swarovski представил рынку специальную машину для огранки и шлифовки кристаллов, которая могла бы заменить трудоемкие ручные процессы, преобладавшие до того момента. Ведомый амбициями и вооруженный патентами, молодой Даниэль Сваровски отправился из Богемии в Ваттенс – торговый город
высоко в Австрийских Альпах. Это место привлекало его своими ресурсами: в первую очередь – водной энергией, которая требовалась для развития производства. Там он и основал компанию Swarovski в 1895 году.
Год за годом предприятие развивалось, и новой вехой на его пути стал 1913 год, когда Swarovski начал выпускать собственные кристаллы. Эти безупречные творения мгновенно произвели сенсацию и заинтересовали людей далеко за пределами
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Австрии. Еще шесть лет спустя настало время для нового шага: в рамках группы Swarovski было основано дочернее предприятие Tyrolit, которое специализировалось на аппаратах для полировки, распилки, сверления и очистки. До сих пор это подразделение остается лидером своей отрасли в Европе. Вслед за Tyrolit последовали Swarovski Optik (высокоточное оптическое оборудование, например, бинокуляры) в 1949 году и Swarovski Lighting в 1966 году. А в 1970-е впервые появились хрустальные фигурки, которыми теперь славится эта компания.
Отношения Swarovski с миром моды поощрялись с самого начала, особенно через близкие и взаимно полезные отношения с Эльзой Скиапарелли, Коко Шанель и позднее с Кристианом Диором. В 1999 году модный редактор Изабелла Блоу представила компании дизайнера Александра Маккуина. И вскоре именно он помог Swarovski найти общий язык с новым, молодым поколением. Этому способствовала, например, прославленная коллекция Widows of Culloden. Также в 1999 году появилась серия Swarovski Collective – еще один совместный с Маккуином проект. За 15 лет свет увидело более 150 коллекции, созданных вместе как с авторитетными, так и с неизвестными, но неизменно
талантливыми марками.Помимо моды, Swarovski
занимается поддержкой инноваций в сфере интерьерного дизайна. Например, для проекта Crystal Palace Захе Хадид, Рону Араду, Тоду Бунтье и другим звездным дизайнерам предложили деконструировать и переосмыслить такой простой и понятный предмет, как люстра. С помощью подобных экспериментов Swarovski постоянно ищет все новые способы раздвинуть границы.
Неустанно двигаясь вперед, Swarovski по-прежнему серьезно
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относится и к своему наследию. В частности, компания остается семейным делом: креативный директор Надя Сваровски – праправнучка основателя. Теперь уже пятое поколение этой семьи заседает в исполнительном совете холдинга. Не оставляет бренд и своей родины: в Ваттенсе продолжают производить фирменный хрусталь. Там же 20 лет назад Swarovski открыл музей Kristallwelten («хрустальные миры»): тогда это событие совпало с празднованием столетнего юбилия. Задача музея – открыть перед посетителем блистательный мир хрусталя. Поэтому среди экспонатов здесь можно встретить произведения таких художников и дизайнеров, как Сальвадор Дали и Ники де Сент-Фалль. И это, кстати, еще раз подчеркивает связь Swarovski со сферой дизайна, искусства и моды.
Swarovski вовлечен во множество других проектов – от благотворительного фонда Swarovski Foundation до поддержки профильных мероприятий, как, например, Design Miami. Начав свой путь с небольшого семейного дела, Swarovski приобрел глобальную силу и перевернул ювелирную индустрию. Его влияние ощущается в мире моды, искусства, дизайна и архитектуры. Кристаллы Swarovski – это классика
и историческое наследие бренда. Но в то же время компания остается столько же новаторской в наши дни, как и в те времена, когда Даниэль Сваровски разработал «бриллианты для всех» и в корне преобразил всю индустрию. swarovski.com
Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира.
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奥地利的新晋设计师们坚定果
决、充满信心，打造出动人心弦的
系列作品。Sally McIlhone带您深
入探索
奥地利素来以其靓丽动人的美景和
丰富多彩的文化历史著称——而
如今，奥地利也越来越多地成为了
时尚界的焦点。在去年的香奈儿
巴黎-萨尔斯堡高级手工坊时装秀
（Métiers d’Art Paris-Salzburg
Chanel）上， Pharrell Williams
与Cara Delevingne等名流现身莫
扎特故乡；与此同时，维也纳品牌
Polaire的3D打印鞋履也吸引了全世
界无数媒体专栏的关注。
奥地利的下一代设计师都胸
怀大志、动力十足，他们深知，若
想在时尚界大合唱中被人听见，他
们就必须全力以赴来打动听众的
таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов.
Контакты:[email protected]+421 232 111 111Потратьте минимум €75.01 и сэкономьте до 15% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.
心弦。Ferrari Zöchling的创始人
Romana Zöchling就是这样一位
设计师。“大学毕业以后，我很快发
现，如果想要以服装设计为生，我
只有两种选择：要么离开奥地利，
要么就独力创业，然后动辄每天工
作24小时，全年无休，和稳定的收
入、假期、闲暇时间、充足睡眠全部
说拜拜，”她承认道。“这个选择做
起来很简单。2013年，我在维也纳
创立了自己的品牌。”
不惜代价追逐梦想的渴望是
许多Zöchling同代人所共有的特
点，因此不少品牌和设计师正携手
并进，追寻成功之路。“从Ferrari
Zöchling成立的第一天起，我便在
和其他维也纳艺术家合作，正好我
有不少艺术家朋友，而他们的画作
也被我借鉴来作为服装上的印花，”
她解释道。“我的社交环境让我的
时装设计深受启发。”
Ferrari Zöchling的最新系列
中包含优雅美丽的褶坠长裙、宽松
大衣以及充满中性气质的印花套头
衫，彰显了Zöchling多变的构建技
艺，而这身本事还要从她的童年说
起。“我记得很小的时候，我的母
亲在晚上缝纫，而我就在熟悉的缝
纫机声响中缓缓入睡，”Zöchling说
道。“我能成为一名时装设计师，某
种程度上正是源于我对这门手艺
的热爱。”
美文翻译
26: Blazing A Trail
辉煌之路
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谈及未来，Zöchling深切地期
望有一天能够在国际舞台上展示自
己的品牌。“我已经建好了品牌网
店，”她说道。“有人在巴巴多斯穿着
我设计的短裤，这真的很棒。我真
的很想在不久的将来去不同的国家
展示我的作品。我的一大具体目标
就是带着我的系列服装登上某个亚
洲时装周的展台，因为我特别迷恋
那个地方。”
维也纳的Alila也是一个独树一
帜的奥地利品牌，专擅把上了年份
的日本和服丝绸改造成优质高档的
服饰。“我满怀着对纺织艺术和旅
行的热情，在2008年创立了Alila，”
设计师Barbara Lindner说道。“我
一直都在物色漂亮的布料，所以我
决定干脆做一个小型的配饰系列，
试着卖一卖。最后我成功了，这也给
予了我信心开创自己的品牌。后来
我发现竟还有像日式古装这样美丽
的纺织品，便立即爱上了它——而
这些布料如今也是我的服装系列的
基础材料。”
可持续性是品牌一大关注点，
自然地Lindner对自己公司这方面
的作为也满怀激情。“我喜欢重复
利用珍稀布料，使它们重获新生，
摇身成为当代时装。坚持可持续性
的经营方式对我来说是很自然的
选择。这不仅仅是古旧物品的再次
利用或是织物的可持续性使用，也
与本地的公平生产、产品持久耐用
的质量和经典不朽的风格有着密
切的关系。”得益于循环利用的特
点，Alila的系列服装并非根据季
节推出，而是跨越季节的、值得投
资的设计作品，超脱于当下潮流
之外。
对于Lindner而言，国际T台并
没有那么大的吸引力。“我所打造
的作品取材于古旧的材料，生产规
模很小，且每一件都独一无二，因
此我更愿意保留本地特色，做独立
品牌。”这种更直接的与潜在顾客
会面的方法并没有妨碍Alila取得成
功。“有一位来自纽约的女士，她上
次来维也纳时看到我的服装系列，
最近她联系了我，为她的婚礼订了
一条礼裙，”Lindner说道。“我也会
带着我的作品周游各地，在德国、
瑞士等其他欧洲国家销售。目前我
正在努力扩大我服装系列的零售商
和经销商网络，不光是在奥地利本
土，还有其他更远的地方。”
另一家奥地利品牌Roee同样
着眼于全球市场。该品牌的最新系
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列中有一款实用型开襟明纽女士长
服，其灵感取自于Terry Gilliam导
演的反乌托邦式幻想类电影《巴西》
（Brazil）。设计师Rene Pomberger
深信，品牌的奥地利根源并不会阻
碍其获得成功。
“在这个全球化的世界里，在
任何地方起家都不是容易的事儿，
但是因特网为我们跨越国界带来了
诸多便利，”Pomberger解释说。“奥
地利的时尚行业正日益蓬勃。”面
对如此盛景，奥地利的设计师们都
信心满满。Pomberger补充说，“我
们的计划就是加强品牌形象，几年
内当我们名声鹊起的时候，我们就
会去参加大型时装周……”
ferrarizoechling.com,
alila.at, roee.cc
32: In Focus: Swarovski
瞩目焦点：施华洛世奇
一百二十年来，作为奥地利最具盛
名的水晶制造商，施华洛世奇一直
都是创新与魅力的代名词。Ginger
Rose Clark为您剖析辉煌背后的
成因
奥黛丽·赫本在电影《蒂凡尼的早
餐》中佩戴的皇冠头饰、迈克尔·杰
克逊在1984年胜利之旅巡回演唱
会上戴的手套、蕾哈娜（Rihanna）
今年早些时候出席美国时尚设计
师协会大奖颁奖典礼时所穿的水
晶透视裙……这些备受瞩目的作品
仅仅是施华洛世奇的一小部分杰
作而已。2015年，这一举世闻名的
奥地利品牌即将迎来自己的120周
年华诞。
然而，若要真正地了解施华洛
世奇，就必须回溯至十九世纪后期
的玻璃制造业中心——波希米亚省
（Bohemia）。水晶玻璃其实一直伴
随着丹尼尔·施华洛世奇（Daniel
Swarovski）的成长，但是真正燃起
了他的想象力、让他得以永远改变
行业历史的催化事件，则是1883年
他21岁时参加了维也纳国际电力
技术博览会（Vienna International
Electric Exhibition）。
施华洛世奇深受此行启发，
埋头钻研多年，最终发明了一台水
晶切割及抛光机器，取代了耗时费
力的传统手工操作流程。这位年
轻人踌躇满志，以专利为武器，毅
然离开波希米亚，只身前往瓦滕斯
（Wattens）。瓦滕斯是一座高居
于奥地利阿尔卑斯山上的市镇，这
里的物产资源十分丰富，这其中又
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以水力资源特为由甚；有了这些资
源，他就可以进一步研发他的产品
了。1895年，也正是在这座小镇，他
创立了施华洛世奇品牌。
公司年复一年不断壮大，1913
年更是迎来了里程碑式的跨越：
施华洛世奇开始独立生产水晶。
精致无暇的产品掀起了不小的轰
动，在奥地利之外亦吸引了广泛关
注。六年之后，品牌迎来了另一项
重要进展，那就是Tyrolit的成立。
作为施华洛世奇集团旗下生产磨
削、割锯、钻探、加工器械的分公
司，Tyrolit多年来一直是欧洲市场
的行业引领者。继此之后，集团又
于1949年创立了专攻双目望远镜等
精密光学仪器的Swarovski Optik，
于1966年创立了专攻照明设计的
Swarovski Lighting。上世纪七十
年代诞生的水晶小塑像更是让品牌
名声大噪。
早在品牌创立之初，施华洛
世奇便与Elsa Schiaparelli、Coco
Chanel以及后来的Christian Dior
建立了互补互惠的合作关系，从而
与时尚界结下了不解之缘。再后
来，1999年通过Isabella Blow的介绍，施华洛世奇与设计师Alexander
McQueen强强联手，通过后者备
受赞誉的Widows of Culloden系
列等项目，帮助品牌步入了新一代
年轻人的视野。于同年成立的施华
洛世奇集体创作项目（Swarovski
Collective）便是与McQueen合作
的直接成果；在项目成立至今十五
年左右的时间里，施华洛世奇相继
与众多著名的和不甚知名的精选
品牌合作，携手推出了150多个作
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79: When You Shop The
World, Shop Tax Free
畅购全球，尊享退税
当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多
家商店消费时，环球蓝联（Global
Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free
Shopping）为您节约购物开销。
每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球
蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，
您怎能错过？您要做的只是寻找蓝星
标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联
（Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们
简单的退税过程：
1. 消费购物
无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联
退税表格（Global Blue Tax Free
Form），并记得保存小票。
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当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城
市的海关柜台请他们在您的退税表格
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领取您的退税款。
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费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单
位收取现金退税手续费。
品系列。
除了时尚界，施华洛世奇对
室内设计领域的创意开发也颇有
助益。例如，在施华洛世奇水晶宫
项目（Crystal Palace）中，Zaha
Hadid、Ron Arad以及Tod Boontje
等设计师便受邀对传统的枝形吊
灯进行解构和再创造。通过这些创
举，施华洛世奇不断挑战极限，推
陈出新。
虽然施华洛世奇对前瞻设计怀
有无限激情，品牌对历史的传承也
相当看重。施华洛世奇如今仍由家
族掌管：创意总监Nadja Swarovski
是品牌创始人的曾曾孙女，执行董
事层还有其他四位家族第五代成员
在位。施华洛世奇也从未忘记过它
的地理根基：瓦滕斯仍是品牌的水
晶生产基地，二十年前，品牌还在
这里揭开了施华洛世奇水晶世界博
物馆（Swarovski Kristallwelten）
的面纱，以庆祝100周年华诞。该博
物馆不仅为访客提供了深入探索水
晶世界的机会，还陈列着Salvador
Dalí和Niki de Saint Phalle等画家
和设计师的作品，从而再次加深了
施华洛世奇与设计、艺术和时尚界
的奇妙缘分。
施华洛世奇还参与了诸多其
他项目，从通过施华洛世奇基金
会（Swarovski Foundation）参与
慈善事业，到赞助迈阿密设计展
（Design Miami）等活动，不胜枚
举。施华洛世奇从一家小小的家族
企业逐步壮大，为珠宝业和众多相
关行业带来了天翻地覆的变化。品
牌的影响力遍及时尚、艺术、设计
和建筑等各个领域。虽然水晶行
业注重传统，但品牌也紧跟当代潮
流，踊跃开拓创新，将丹尼尔·施华
洛世奇当年彻底改变行业轨道、誓
为打造“属于每一个人的钻石”的精
神魄力秉承至今。
swarovski.com
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والفن والوضة. تشارك Swarovski ف برامج أخرى
بدءا بالعمل الخيية من خلل مؤسسة Swarovski Foundation وصول إل ريع الفعاليات مثال Design Miami. من شكة عائلية صغية، تحولت Swarovski إل السم
التدد الذي بدل عوال صناعة الجوهرات ودوى صداه ف أكث من مجال فطال بتأثيه عال
الوضة والفن والتصميم والهندسة العمرية. عل الرغم من أن البلورات تعكس الرث ف
الصناعة، ل تزال Swarovski مبدعة ومبتكرة Daniel اليوم كم كانت ف السابق عندما قلبSwarovski القاييس رأسا عل عقب ليصنع
"ألاسا للجميع". swarovski.com
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عندما تتسوق حول العال، تسوق من دون دفع الضيبة
Global Blue تقدم لك غلوبل بلوTax خدمة التسوق من دون دفع الضيبةFree لتدخر الال لدى تسوقك ف أكث من
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Swarovski مبادرة McQueen التعاون معCollective التي أطلقت سنة 1999. بعد
15 عاما عل إطلقها، وصل عدد الجموعات التي ضمتها إل 150 تم اختيارها من علمات
تجارية معروفة أو أقل شهرة. بعيدا عن عال الوضة، اضطلعت الشكة بدور جوهري ف دعم البتكار ف عال التصميم
الداخل. فعل سبيل الثال دعي مصممون عل Todو Ron Aradو Zaha Hadid غرار
Boontje لتفكيك الثيا التقليدية وإعادة Swarovski’s Crystal تصميمها لشوع
Palace. بإطلق Swarovski مبادرات مم’لة، تسعى إل تخطي العقبات والذهاب إل
أقص الحدود.عل الرغم من تركيز العلمة التجارية
عل التطور، ل تزال متمسكة بإر’ها. إذ تبقى Swarovski شكة عائلية: فمديرتها البداعية Nadja Swarovski إنا هي حفيدة حفيد
الؤسس وهي عضوة ف مجلس الشكة التنفيذي الذي يتألف من 4 أفراد آخرين يتحدرون من العائلة نفسها. ل تنس Swarovski جذورها
الجغرافية أيضا إذ ل يزال البلور يصنع ف Wattens أي الكان الذي كشفت فيه العلمة
Swarovski التجارية النقاب عن متحفKristallwelten )عوال البلور( منذ 20
عاما احتفال بالذكرى الئوية لتأسيسها. يعطي التحف الزوار لحة عن عال البلور إذ تقام فيه Salvador معارض لفناني ومصممي عل غرار
Dalí وNiki de Saint Phalle، ما يعيد
التأكيد عل علقة Swarovski بعال التصميم
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طوال 120 عاما، شكلت العلمة التجارية النمساوية الكث شهرة ف عال صناعة البلور
Ginger Rose مرادفا للبداع والتألق. تبحثClark ف أسباب نجاحها الدوي
من تاج Audrey Hepburn ف فيلم Breakfast at Tifany’s، إل قفاز
Victory ف جولته Michael JacksonTour سنة 1984 مرورا بالفستان الرصع
الذي ارتدته Rihanna إل حفل جوائز Council of Fashion Designers ofAmerica: ل تعكس هذه القطع البهرة
Swarovski سوى جزء بسيط من تراث علمةالنمساوية الشهية التي تحتفي سنة 2015
برور 120 عاما عل تأسيسها. مع ذلك، وليفهم الرء علمة
Swarovski بتفاصيلها، عليه أن يعود بالزمن إل القرن التاسع عش وإل مقاطعة
Bohemia التي شكلت آنذاك الشيان الغذي
Daniel Swarovski لصناعة الزجاج. ترعرعمحاطا بالزجاج والبلور. وقد جاءت زياته
سنة 1883 عندما كان ف الـ 21 من العمر Vienna International Electric لعرض
Exhibition لتغذي خياله وتطلق شارة الحداث التي ستقلب هذه الصناعة رأسا عل
عقب ف ما بعد.خلفت هذه الزيارة بصمتها عل
Swarovski الذي قام ببحوث مكثفة ليتوصل إل ابتكار آلة تقطع البلور وتصقله، فتحل
مكان العمل اليدوية الشاقة التي كانت شائعة آنذاك بي صفوف الحرفيي. تحل الشاب
اليافع بالطموح وتسلح بباءة اختاع فمض عن Bohemia ليقصد Wattens، وهي بلدة تضم سوقا وتقع ف أعال جبال اللب ف النمسا.
م بالطاقة الائية – التي تزخر بالوارد – ل سيكان بحاجة إليها ليطور منتجه أكث. هنا أسس
علمة Swarovski التجارية سنة 1895.مرت السنون ول تنفك الشكة تزدهر
وتكب. فقد شكلت سنة 1913 محطة بارزة ف مسية شكة Swarovskiعندما بدأت تصنع
بلورات خاصة بها. لقت البتكارات التي ل تسها أي شائبة نجاحا مدويا فجذبت انتباه
أشخاص من خارج النمسا. بعد ست سنوات، Tyrolit حصل تطور هام آخر: تأسيس شكة
التي تشكل فرعا من Swarovskiوتصنع آلت طحن ونش وتثقيب وخياطة. ل تزال
هذه الشكة اليوم رائدة ف السواق الوروبية. ’م جاءت شكة Swarovski Optik التي Tyrolit تأسست سنة 1949 لتتبع شكةوتركز عل مجال صناعة العدات البصية
الدقيقة عل غرار النظار الثنائ قبل أن تأسس شكة Swarovski Lighting سنة 1966.
أما ف السبعينيات، فتأسست شكة تا’يل الكريستال التي أكسبت الجموعة شهرة غي
مسبوقة. Swarovski من البداية توطدت علقةم بفضل علقاتها بجال الوضة والزياء ل سيCocoو Elsa Schiaparelli الو’يقة معChanel و Christian Diorالتي تعود
بالنفعة عل الطرفي. ف الونة الخية، وبعد دور اضطلعت به Isabella Blow سنة
Alexander McQueen 1999، أصبحSwarovski الصمم الذي قرب السافات بيوجيل الشباب الجديد بفضل مجموعاته ومنها
Widows of Culloden. فتمخضت عن
In Focus: Swarovski: 32
Swarovski :تحت الجهر
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الصغر."عندما تتحدث Zöchling عن الستقبل، تظهر حرصها عل عرض علمتها التجارية عل الساحة
الدولية. تقول: "أسست متجرا عل النتنت. أرى أشخاصا ف بربادوس يرتدون الساويل
القصية التي صممتها، وهذه مدعاة فخر ل. ل شك ف أنني أرغب ف عرض تصاميمي ف
بلدان مختلفة ف الستقبل القريب. أما الهدف السمى فهو عرضها ف أسبوع الوضة السيوي، إذ ل يخفى عن أحد كم أنا مفتونة بهذا الجزء
من العال."تشكل Alila علمة تجارية مميزة أخرى
اتخذت من فيينا مقرا لها ويعرف عنها تخصصها باللبس الفاخرة التي تم صنعها بتدوير ملبس
م حرير الكيمونو اليابان. تقول أخرى ل سيالصممة Barbara Lindner: "أسست Alila عام 2008 معتمدة عل شغفي بفن
النسج والسفر. دائا ما كنت أشتي القمشة الجميلة، فقررت أن أبتكر مجموعة أكسسوارات صغية أبيعها. لقت هذه الجموعة نجاحا عزز
ثقتي بنفس وأعطان دافعا لتأسيس علمتي التجارية الخاصة. ثم اكتشفت اللبس اليابانية القدية ووقعت ف حب هذه النسجة الجميلة
من اللحظة الول فباتت تشكل اليوم أساس مجموعتي."
تول العلمة التجارية الستدامة أهمية كبية فيبدو شغف Lindner بهذه الناحية
من شكتها مفهوما. "أحب أن أستخدم القمشة الثمينة مرة أخرى فأنفخ فيها حياة جديدة وأحولها إل أزياء معاصة. بات الحرص عل استدامة عمل طبيعة ثانية متسخة ف. ول يتمحور عمل عل إعادة استخدام النسجة
الستدامة أو القدية، بل يتعداه ليشمل النتاج الحل النزيه والجودة الدائة والزياء التي
ل تبطل موضتها فتدوم عل مر الواسم." با أن مجموعات Alila تصنع من قطع يعاد استخدامها، ل تعكس صيحات الوسم، بل
هي ملبس يحبذ الستثمر بشائها لنها عابرة للمواسم ول يقتص ارتداؤها عل الصيحات
الؤقتة. ل تجد Lindner نفسها تصبو إل
الساحة الدولية: "با أنني ألجأ إل الواد القدية لصمم قطعا فريدة من نوعها عل نطاق ضيق،
أف–ل أن أحص عمل بالساحة الحلية حتى
أبقى مستقلة." ل يعق لقاء العملء الحتملي Lindner تفس .Alila وجها لوجه نجاح
قائلة: "رأت مؤخرا امرأة من نيويورك مجموعتي ف فيينا فاتصلت ب لتطلب فستانا
لزفافها. أسافر أحيانا مع مجموعتي فأبيعها ف دول أوروبية أخرى من بينها ألانيا وسويسا. أعمل حاليا عل توسيع شبكة الحلت ونقاط البيع التي تعرض مجموعتي، ليس ف النمسا
فحسب، إنا ف دول أخرى أي–ا."تشكل Roee علمة تجارية أخرى Rene Pomberger وضعت مصممتها
ة نصب عينيها. ت–م مجموعتها الشهرة العالية عل شكل فساتي الخية معاطف عملي
مستوحاة من فيلم Brazil الخيال الكئيب للمخرج Terry Gilliam. بالنسبة إل
الصممة لن تقف جذور العلمة النمساوية ف طريق نجاحها.
تشح قائلة: "ف عص العولة، يصعب اختيار نقطة انطلق. غي أن النتنت سهلت علينا عبور الحدود. إذ ل تنفك ساحة الزياء
النمساوية تزدهر." ف وجه هذا التوسع، يبقى مصممو النمسا واثقي بأنفسهم. تتابع
Pomberger: "تكمن خطتنا ف تعزيز العلمة
التجارية، وبعد ب–عة أعوام، حي نكتسب سمعة عالية، سننطلق للمشاركة ف أسابيع
الوضة الكبية..."،ferrarizoechling.com ،alila.at
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يشتهر مصممو النمسا بعزيتهم وثقتهم بنفسهم وابتكارهم مجموعات مثية. ها هي
Sally McIlhone تكشف التفاصيل.
ذاع صيت النمسا لناظرها الخلبها وتاريخها الثقاف الغني – والن تزداد شهرتها بعد
أن تسلطت عليها أضواء الوضة والزياء. Métiers d’Art Paris-ففي عرض
Salzburg لدار Chanel العام الاض،
Caraو Pharrell Williams توجه أمثالMozart إل مسقط رأس Delevingne
وتصدرت أحذية Polaire الثلثية البعاد الصنوعة ف فيينا عناوين الصحف.
يتميز جيل الصممي الصاعد بطموحه واندفاعه فهو عل يقي بالحاجة التي تفرض
عليه أن يضب عل الوتر الحساس حتى يدوي صدى صوته ف عال الوضة. ومن بي هؤلء الصممي Romana Zöchling من دار
Ferrari Zöchling. كشفت قائلة: "بعد أن
لعربيةعربيعرب
Blazing A Trail: 26
شق الطريق
تخرجت من الجامعة، سعان ما علمت أنني وإن أردت أن أكسب لقمة العيش بالعمل ف
صناعة اللبس، أمامي الخياران التيان: إما أن أغادر النمسا وإما أن أصبح رائدة أعمل تعمل عل مدار الساعة مديرة ظهرها للدخل الثابت
والجازات ووقت الفراغ والنوم. وكم كان الخيار سهل. أسست العلمة التجارية ف فيينا سنة
".2013
Zöchling يتشارك معاصون كث ف دارهذه الرغبة ف مطاردة أحلمهم مهم كان الثمن
فتت–افر جهود العلمات التجارية والصممي لتتكلل نجاحا. تكشف الصممة: "منذ افتتاح
Ferrari Zöchling، تعاونت مع فناني
آخرين من فيينا هم من بي أصدقائ القربي واستخدمت فنهم نقشات’ عل الثياب التي
صممتها. لطالا حثتني البيئة الجتمعية التي أعيش فيها عل تصميم الزياء."
تقدم مجموعة Ferrari Zöchling الخية فساتي جميلة بثنيات، وقمصانا شبه متهلة Zöchling للرجال والنساء تعكس مهارات
التنوعة ف التكيب، مهارة اكتسبتها منذ نعومة أظافرها. تقول: "أذكر والدت وهي تخيط
ف الليل، إذ اعتدت أن أغفو عل صوت آلة الخياطة الألوف. أصبحت مصممة أزياء اليوم
لن عشقي لهذه الحرفة تنامى ف قلبي منذ P
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