Page 52

FRIENDS OF THE EARTH:

discover the eco-friendly face

of Italian fashion

ROME | РИМ | 罗马 | ローマ

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Montblanc Star Classique and Hugh Jackman

Crafted for New Heights

Manufactured in Switzerland, the Star Classique Automatic, with its slim 8.9 mm 18 K red gold case and its ergonomically shaped case back, is a fi ne companion for an elegant appearance. Visit and shop at Montblanc.com

Boutique Montblanc

Via Condotti 70

VIA CONDOTTI 49/50

SHOP AT TRUSSARDI.COM

Emma Cheevers

EDITOR’S LETTER

12

Welcome to Rome

Maybe you’re already familiar with Rome, or perhaps it’s the frst time

you’ve visited this architecturally stunning historic city. Either way,

SHOP magazine is sure to ofer something to surprise you. Discover

the eco-friendly face of Italian fashion on page 52, read about artisanal

yet forward-looking Roman brand Fendi on page 64, and we explore the

infuence of the 1960 flm Plein Soleil on Italian style today on page 72.

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market

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LIBERA DI

REINVENTARSI

RENDEZ-VOUS NIGHT & DAY

Scopri la collezione di orologi gioiello Jaeger-LeCoultre

sul sito ladies.jaeger-lecoultre.com

Boutique: Firenze Milano Roma Venezia

Per informazioni: +39 02 36042 833

CONTRIBUTORS

14

Pietari Posti

Barcelona-based Pietari Posti,

a long-time SHOP illustrator,

created this season’s SHOP

Rome cover. Inspired by our

feature on page 52 about the

environmentally conscious

Italian fashion brands which

are working towards more

sustainable production, it

shows a woman in a billowing

dress made up of rolling hills

and felds, with the Rome

skyline in the background.

Read more about our cover

illustrations at

globalblue.com/covers.IL

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globalblue.com

Josh Sims

Freelance journalist and

editor Josh Sims contributes

to publications that include the

Financial Times, Independent,

Observer, Wallpaper and

Esquire. His latest book is

Icons of Women’s Style,

published in April 2015.

Caterina Mazzolai

Caterina Mazzolai is SHOP’s

production editor. She

moved from Italy to the UK

after graduating in modern

languages in Pisa. She holds

an MA in publishing from

the London College of

Communication.

Harriet Quick

Fashion journalist Harriet

Quick has held senior roles

at the Guardian newspaper

and British Vogue, where she

was the title’s fashion features

director for over a decade, and

has interviewed some of the

fashion world’s biggest stars.

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SHOP FLOOR

18

PU BL I SH I NG

Publisher

James Morris

E DI TOR I A L

Editor-in-chief

Emma Cheevers

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Key account managers

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Caterina De Bernardo,

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Account managers

Nicoletta Aromando,

Alessandro Bonincontro,

Rodolfo Borella, Nadia Busletta,

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Eamonn Leacy

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Digital marketing executive

Wenhan Zhang

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Devesh Sankadecha

Digital intern

Sammy Ha

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Riccardo Canini

Managing editor

Sally McIlhone

Cover illustrator

Pietari Posti

Contributors

Maria Kirchen-Hill,

Harriet Quick,

Josh Sims

Production editor

Caterina Mazzolai

Assistant production editor

Ruairidh Pritchard

Features editor

Verity Hogan

City guide and lifestyle editor

Isabella Redmond Styles

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Ximena Daneri

News editor

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Chief sub-editor

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Copy editors

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Creative editor/Deputy picture editor

Sarah Beyts

Assistant picture editor

Grace Bird

Picture assistants

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Sarah Walker

Art direction

Design by S-T

Artwork editor

Adam Dhaliwal

Artworking assistants

Dionne Hélène,

Milkha Lala,

George Trinick

Artworking intern

Samantha Junak

Online managing editor

Kirsty Welsh

Online production assistant

Marina Nelson

Online assistant

Emily Scrivener

Chinese editor

Yuan Fang

Associate Chinese editor

Junjie Dou

Chinese contributing editor

Qingya He

Chinese editorial assistants

Yunhan Fang, Yangzi Liu

Chinese translators

Xun Ji, Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi,

Yi Zhang

Russian editor

Anastasia Nemchenok

Associate Russian editor

Daria Orlova

Russian translators

Diana Fitkulina, Teena Garnik,

Gary Ramazanov

Japanese editor

Kyoko Nishimoto

Print

Dane Consultancy

Commercial editor

Gemma Latham

Commercial artworking assistant

Aaron Carline

AVP business development manager

Patrice Janet

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2015 Global Blue

MILLA + ART.365

THE SEASONLESS WARDROBE

MARELLA.COM

ROMA

via Frattina 129/131

via Appia Nuova 7/11

via del Corso 89/90

c.c. Euroma 2

CONTENTS

20

Above: fabric swatches at Miroglio’s textile plant in Govone

PRODUCTS

26 Check Out

SHOP selects a standout piece from

Rome this season

28 My Favourites

Womenswear designer Giulia Collina

reveals her top tips for spring/summer 2015

30 Products

Key looks for the season, from fashion

and footwear to jewellery and accessories

N E WS

40 Shop Window

One store not to be missed in Rome

42 News

Seasonal updates on shops, services and

new products

F E AT U R E S

52 Cover Story: Sustainable Style

Italy’s fashion industry is becoming

increasingly eco-friendly, says

Sally McIlhone

64 In Focus: Fendi

A fashion house with personality,

Fendi combines artisanal craftsmanship

with contemporary innovation, writes

Harriet Quick

72 Forever Cool

The artistically dishevelled elegance that

pervades the 1960 flm Plein Soleil still

infuences the Italian sense of style today,

reports Josh Sims

p.58

CONTENTS

22

E X PE R I E NCE80 Cold Comfort

Rome’s gelaterias mix artisanal techniques with cutting-edge favour combinations, making an ice cream experience to savour, as Isabella Redmond Styles discovers

GU I DE84 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas

of Rome, plus SHOP’s unique view of the city’s sights

112 My Neighbourhood

Fashion designer Fabio Quaranta takes SHOP on a tour of Rome’s Monti and Esquilino districts

E SSE N T I A L S114 How To Shop Tax Free

The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

T R A NSL AT IONS116 Русский Перевод126 美文翻译

131 日本語翻訳

SOU V E N I R138 The essential item to bring home

ONLINE

ENGLISH | Р УС СКИЙ | 中文

The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated everyday at globalblue.com

Follow the Global Blue editors

on the move for up-to-the-

minute shopping tips and

insider information.

@shopcontent

/globalblue

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GET SOCIALFASHION

COMPETITIONS

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calvinklein.com

Roma

Via Cola di Rienzo 151-153

Galleria alberto Sordi

ROMA | Via del Babuino 20 | Tel. +39 06 326.512.56

| Via Cola di Rienzo 266 | Tel. +39 06 688.079.02

| Via del Corso c/o Gall. A. Sordi 27/28 | Tel. +39 06 692.020.79

| Via Appia Nuova 168/170 | Tel. +39 06 772.044.66

26 | PRODUCTS

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114

ITALY MEETS INDIA

Italian fashion house Miu Miu has added a

new design to its covetable handbag collection.

The style is named Madras, referring to the

specialist leather the bags are crafted from,

which is sourced in southeast India and

renowned for its beautiful grain. Practical

in design yet playful in appearance, the bags

come in a range of colours, with single and

two-tone options fnished with simple and sleek

gold-toned hardware. Making functionality a

high priority, the soft calf suede-lined interior

features multiple pockets, while the exterior

features a shoulder strap, top handles and

a concealed pouch in the back of the bag

with holders for a mobile phone and credit

card. A style smart enough for the ofce and

fun enough for the weekend, this yellow and

clay edition makes a cheerful statement and a

clever purchase for women looking to combine

functional ease with fashion fair. gl

Miu Miu Madras handbag, €1,300,

Miu Miu, Via del Babuino 91, 00187 Rome,

+39 06 3600 4884,

miumiu.com

* for map go to page 90

CHECK OUT

28 | PRODUCTS

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114

1. ‘I always follow the Chanel

womenswear prêt-à-porter

with particular interest’

Chanel,

Piazza di Spagna 85,

00187 Rome,

+39 06 6976 9999,

chanel.com

2. ‘When it comes

to technology, I like

Apple products’

Apple Watch, price on request,

Apple Store,

Galleria Porta di Roma,

Via Alberto Lionello 201,

00139 Rome,

+39 06 8720 8501,

apple.com

3. ‘My favourite place to

eat in Rome is the organic

pizzeria Emma in the city

centre, in the Campo de’

Fiori area’

Emma,

Via Monte della Farina 28/29,

00186 Rome,

+39 06 6476 0475,

emmapizzeria.com

Giulia Collina, born in Rome, grew up in a

fashionable family – her father and aunt both worked

for major brands and her mother was a model. After

studying at the Istituto Superiore per le Industrie

Artistiche (Higher Institute for Artistic Industries)

in Rome, Collina established Tags in 2009. Since

then, the brand has been spotted by Vogue Italia

and Collina is set to make waves with her latest

collection. Theresa Harold gets the lowdown on

the designer’s top picks from her home city

tagsroma.com

MY FAVOURITES: Giulia Collina

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SHOP | 29

4

4. ‘Lately I have been using

the Kedu fragrance by

Memo Paris’

Memo Paris Kedu perfume, 75ml,

€168,

Campomarzio70,

Via Vittoria 52,

00187 Rome,

+39 06 6979 7739,

memofragrances.com

5. ‘I often use natural

products and one of the

brands that I buy more

often is Aesop, both for

hair and skin care’

Aesop Elemental Facial Barrier

Cream, 60ml, €45,

Olfattorio Bar à Parfums Roma,

Via di Ripetta 34, 00186 Rome,

+39 06 361 2325, aesop.com

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30 | PRODUCTS

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5. Boss Manfredy bag, £725,

Boss, Via Frattina 136-138,

00187 Rome, +39 06 678 6173,

hugoboss.com

3. Mondelliani sunglasses, €195,

Mondelliani, Via dei Bergamaschi 49,

00186 Rome, +39 06 679 3481,

mondelliani.it

4. Diesel Jogg Jeans, €370,

Diesel, Piazza di Spagna 18,

00187 Rome, +39 06 678 6817,

diesel.com

1. Ermanno Scervino shoes, price

on request, Ermanno Scervino,

Via del Babuino 97, 00187 Rome,

+39 06 679 3173, ermannoscervino.it

2. A Testoni calf leather suitcase,

€2,505, A Testoni, Via dei Condotti 80,

00187 Rome, +39 06 678 8944,

testoni.com

CASUAL COOL

Choose summer classics

highlighted with silver and blue,

and add a splash of summery

palm-tree print

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SHOP | 31

8. Bang & Olufsen Beoplay H2

headphones, €199, Bang & Olufsen,

Via Cristoforo Colombo 193A-B,

00147 Rome, +39 06 511 5339,

beoplay.com

7. Hermès watch, €3,400,

Hermès, Via di Campo Marzio 9A,

00186 Rome, +39 06 679 3249,

hermes.com

6. Benetton T-shirt, €19.95,

Benetton, Stazione Termini,

Via Giovanni Giolitti 9,

00185 Rome, +39 06 4620 2511,

benetton.com

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32 | PRODUCTS

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JOYOUS JEWELS

Celebrate summer with sparkling

creations in rainbow colours

1

1. Chopard Imperiale ring, €6,160,

Chopard, Via del Babuino 22,

00187 Rome, +39 06 3600 3741,

chopard.com

2. Harry Winston yellow diamond

solitaire ring, price on request,

Harry Winston, Via dei Condotti 61A,

00187 Rome, +39 06 4521 1400,

harrywinston.com

3. Marco Bicego Murano glass

bracelet, €10,420, Marcello Angeletti,

Via dei Condotti 11A, 00187 Rome,

+39 06 679 3700, marcobicego.com

4. Damiani Battito d’Ali ring,

€3,490, Damiani, Via dei Condotti 84,

00187 Rome, +39 06 6920 0477,

damiani.com

5. Pomellato Bahia ring in rose gold

with London blue topaz and pink

sapphires, €7,850, Pomellato,

Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina 38,

00186 Rome, +39 06 6880 9790,

pomellato.com

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PIAZZA COLONNA 40/41 - VIA COLA DI RIENZO 155 - VIA FRATTINA 42/43

SHOP AT TRUSSARDI.COM

34 | PRODUCTS

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114

1. Jimmy Choo Feign shoes, €675,

Jimmy Choo, Via dei Condotti 68A,

00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 2667,

jimmychoo.com

2. Salvatore Ferragamo bracelet,

€280, Salvatore Ferragamo,

Via dei Condotti 73-74, 00187 Rome,

+39 06 679 1565, ferragamo.com

4. Burberry Prorsum dress,

€1,795, Burberry,

Via dei Condotti 59-61,

00187 Rome, +39 06 675 0101,

burberry.com

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3. Delfna Delettrez Never Too

Light ring, €1,680, Delfna Delettrez,

Via del Governo Vecchio 66-67,

00186 Rome, +39 06 6813 6362,

delfnadelettrez.com

SHEER GENIUS

Enhance a delicate chifon

dress with statement jewellery

and silver stilettos

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ROMA | v ia Fratt ina, 47/49 - Ph +39 06 69921305

elegant journey

36 | PRODUCTS

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114

PLAYFUL

PRINTS

Pair prints with stripes and

keep jewellery simple to

create a fun and efortless

daytime ensemble

4. Swarovski Stardust necklace, €99,

Swarovski, Via dei Condotti/Largo

Goldoni 48, 00187 Rome,

+39 06 6992 1615, swarovski.com

5. Pinko trousers, €185,

Pinko, Via dei Due Macelli 92-96,

00187 Rome, +39 06 6920 2091,

pinko.it

1. Paloma Picasso for Tifany Sugar

Stacks 18-carat gold ring with

diamonds, €5,450, Tifany & Co,

Via del Babuino 118, 00187 Rome,

+39 06 679 0717, tifany.com

2. Marella Fabia T-shirt, €99,

Marella, Via Frattina 129-131,

00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 3800,

marella.com

3. Dolce & Gabbana Sofa watch,

€5,450, Dolce & Gabbana,

Via dei Condotti 51-52, 00187 Rome,

+39 06 6992 4999, dolcegabbana.com

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38 | PRODUCTS

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1. Loewe scarf, €295,

Loewe, Piazza di Spagna 70-71,

00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 3598,

loewe.com

2. Victorinox Inox watch, €399,

Menichini Gioiellieri,

Piazza di Spagna 1, 00187 Rome,

+39 06 679 1403,

victorinox.com

3. Massimo Dutti shirt, €49.95,

Massimo Dutti, Galleria Alberto Sordi,

Piazza Colonna, 00187 Rome,

+39 06 679 1179, massimodutti.com

4. Car Shoe canapa driving shoes,

€260, Car Shoe, Piazza San Lorenzo in

Lucina 5, 00187 Rome,

+39 06 8938 5111, carshoe.com

STATEMENT STYLE

Bold apparel in red and black demonstrates self-assurance

1

2

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40 | NEWS

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114

SHOP WINDOW

RELAX WITH GLOBAL BLUE

If you’re travelling from Rome to Milan to

visit the international Expo, be sure to visit

Global Blue’s new Lounge, which awaits you

on Via della Spiga in the heart of the city’s

fashion district. In this prestigious location,

we ofer a calm space where you can relax

during a day of activities, surrounded by the

fagships of the biggest names in fashion, in

an exclusive environment with attentive and

professional staf. Pop into the GB Lounge

and take a break, read a newspaper, enjoy some

much-needed refreshment or use our Wi-Fi.

During your visit, be sure to look into our many

services designed to make your stay in Milan

as comfortable and personalised as possible

– ask us about our delivery service, concierge

and refund ofces. We’ll see you there! hl

Global Blue Lounge,

Via della Spiga 26,

20121 Milan,

globalblue.com

42 | NEWS

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114

WATCH THIS SPACE

Founded in 1794 as Orologeria Ricci,

Hausmann is one of the oldest purveryors

of fne watches in the world. The original

workshop approached watchmaking as a craft

and soon built a strong reputation. By the

time it took the name Hausmann the frm

already had strong relationships with some

of Switzerland’s premier horological houses,

choosing only the best timepieces to present

in its Rome boutique. Committed to the twin

ideals of respect for tradition and commitment

to innovation, Hausmann remains one of the

top watch stores in the city. In the store on Via

del Babuino visitors can be sure of excellent

service, available in Italian, English, Spanish,

Russian, Chinese and Japanese. mkh

Hausmann & Co,

Via del Babuino 63, 00187 Rome,

+39 06 3211 0100,

hausmann-co.com

* for map go to page 90

SCENT OF SUCCESS

Those with a penchant for fne fragrance

should be sure to visit the recently opened

Haute Parfumerie boutique, the frst store

to bring together the eponymous line of

fragrances from Antonio Visconti and also

his Royal Crown line, two perfume houses

committed to exclusivity, excellence and

refnement. Visconti’s scents are made using

only natural materials, with sought-after,

rare ingredients in every bottle. Look out for

the Royal Crown Black Bay special edition,

designed to evoke the spirit of adventures on

the sea. Rose, oud, sandalwood and vetiver

combine in harmony, presented in a stunning

black crystal bottle with 1,000 crystals applied

by hand to each cap. Visconti’s aim is to take

exclusivity to the next level, and that’s exactly

what you will fnd at Haute Parfumerie. hl

Luxury Perfumes,

Via delle Carrozze 67, 00187 Rome,

+39 06 678 1669,

antoniovisconti.com, royal-crown.it

* for map go to page 96

SHOP | 43

globalblue.com

EXPERIMENTAL DESIGN

Massimo Noli and Nicola Frau are the

designers behind Italian label Quattromani.

The pair met while studying at the Accademia

di Moda e Design in Cagliari and served an

internship together at Les Copains. Now they

split their time between Cagliari and Rome,

designing collections that are at once high-

concept and wearable. Perhaps it’s the infuence

of their favourite designers (Rick Owens, Prada

and Maison Martin Margiela) that has helped

them strike such a tricky balance. One thing’s

for sure, the spirit of experimentation is at the

core of the brand – whether that’s using a 3D

printer, or mixing natural materials such as silk

with high-tech man-made fabrics. th

Super,

Via Leonina 42,

00184 Rome,

+39 06 9826 6450,

quattromanifashionproject.blogspot.co.uk

STORY TELLER

The motto of Vienna-based designer Ina

Kent’s eponymous label is ‘Bags tell stories’.

Kent’s minimal designs are crafted using

sparingly processed hides, giving them a

distinctive appearance and feel. For spring/

summer 2015, Kent has created a chic line of

accessories including iPhone cases, belts and

tote bags in shades of brown, grey and plum. th

Latrofa 1959,

Via Francesco Saverio Sprovieri 7,

00152 Rome,

+39 06 581 2102,

inakent.com

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44 | NEWS

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MORE THAN MEETS THE EYE

2015 is an important anniversary for

Gherardini, as the historic Italian fashion

house celebrates 130 years since its founding.

To mark the occasion, Gherardini’s designers

have created a new limited edition of one of its

best-known handbags, the classic Piattina. The

design is a clever piece of trompe l’oeil. What

appears as a brightly coloured bag on a neutral

background is in fact a tote bag that features

an illustration of two of Gherardini’s other

famous bags, the Bellina (pictured) and the

Dodicidodici. The boldly printed illustrations

stand out as if in 3D on the monogrammed

millerighe fabric, making these creations

almost as good as two bags in one. mkh

Gherardini, Via Belsiana 48, 00187 Rome,

+39 06 679 5501, gherardini.it

* for map go to page 95

CREATIVE DIRECTION

When Hedi Slimane took over at YSL in

2012, there were a lot of changes. The name

was just one element that he altered; under the

pared-back title of Saint Laurent the label has

seen a thorough overhaul, its stores being one

of the most visual examples of this progress.

A physical embodiment of the house under

Slimane, the new store concept has been rolled

out internationally to great success, with the

boutique in Rome being one of the most recent

to feel the efect. The design of the store is a

modernist interpretation of French art deco

techniques and materials. Predominantly

monochrome, the space is decked in black and

white matt fnish marbles, brilliant mirrors and

clear glass, with details in brass, concrete and

quilted black leather. Home to the full men’s

and women’s collections, the store is furnished

with antique pieces specifcally chosen to suit

the city of Rome, so that each store is subtly

unique while still conforming to Slimane’s

powerful vision. hl

Saint Laurent,

Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina 17,

00186 Rome,

+39 06 678 1346, ysl.com

* for map go to page 104

NEWS | 47

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114

MAXIMUM IMPACT

Launched in autumn/winter 2014, the

Max Mara Tailored Suit Project is a highly

technical collection featuring hand-sewn

jackets that are particularly perfect for the

modern businesswoman. Inspired by traditional

masculine tailoring, each jacket takes 345

minutes to make – twice as long as a standard

jacket. The diferent jackets complement the

diferent facets of a woman’s life: the double-

breasted blazer, the smoking jacket in two

lengths, and a lightweight jacket made from

100% wool. Choose from a classic palette

of blue, black, grey or beige with styles in

pinstripe and grisaille fabrics. The beauty of

this collection is that it radiates professionalism

without ever masking the wearer’s femininity. th

Max Mara,

Via dei Condotti 17-19,

00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 2104,

maxmara.com

* for map go to page 96

VIVA VALENTINO

Having visited New York and Paris,

Valentino’s travelling couture show lands back

in its hometown in July 2015. The Italian label,

much loved by Hollywood and the fashion

world alike, keeps an atelier in Rome where

couture pieces are still embroidered and pleated

by hand. Creative directors Maria Grazia

Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have timed the

showing of their couture collection to coincide

with another Valentino fagship store opening

in Rome. This hectic schedule means that the

duo will produce four collections in two months

– a spring/summer couture collection, a pre-fall

ready-to-wear and a menswear show. For its

spring/summer 2015 ready-to-wear collection,

Valentino outdid itself with a grand total of 79

looks – proof that sometimes more is more. th

Valentino,

Via dei Condotti 15,

00187 Rome,

+39 06 673 9420,

valentino.com

* for map go to page 96

48 | NEWS

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114

URBAN STYLE

First launched in 2004, the TimeWalker

collection by Montblanc soon became one of

the brand’s most popular watches, the sporty

elegance and strong masculinity of the style

gaining a wide fan base. The Urban Speed

timepiece, one of the latest additions to the

TimeWalker family, embodies the trademark

Montblanc ideal of fusing Swiss watchmaking

traditions with innovation and contemporary

style. Technologically advanced, the timepiece

is nonetheless simple and classic, made with the

fnest materials in black with highlights of silvery

grey and crisp white, fnished with fashes

of scarlet. The watch encases the automatic

mechanical Calibre MB 25.07, so you can be

just as sure of the Urban Speed’s reliability and

precision as of its unfailing style. hl

Montblanc,

Via dei Condotti 70,

00187 Rome,

+39 06 6994 1894,

montblanc.com

* for map go to page 96

INDIAN SUMMER

This season’s Louis Vuitton menswear

collection has been inspired by the luxurious

palaces and resorts of India at the beginning

of the 20th century, following a trip to the

country by the label’s menswear style director

Kim Jones. Silhouettes refect those of 1930s

military clothing, while the collection is set in

hues of dusky oranges and khaki with bursts of

hot pink contrasting with deep navy. Impressive

details, including intricately engraved mirror

plating, embossed buttons, and cotton and silk

Airtex jacket linings, are the result of Jones’s

extensive fabric research and mark this season’s

menswear collection as one of Louis Vuitton’s

best crafted to date. rp

Louis Vuitton,

Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina 41,

00186 Rome,

+39 06 6880 9520, louisvuitton.com

* for map go to page 104

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Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114

ROME GROWN

Roman-born Chiara Baschieri graduated

from the city’s Accademia di Costume e di

Moda in 2008. Since then, she has worked for

Italian fashion house Blumarine, where she

gained valuable experience before launching

her own label in 2010. Her eponymous brand

takes a contemporary approach to tailoring and

fabric experimentation, resulting in an instantly

recognisable style. Integral to the brand is the

fact that the entire collection is made in Italy

– a hallmark of quality if ever there was one.

Chiara Baschieri is currently stocked in Japan,

America, Ireland, Saudi Arabia and, of course,

Italy. In September 2014, Baschieri opened

her frst standalone store in the heart of Rome,

cementing her status as a designer on the rise. th

Chiara Baschieri,

Vicolo Orto di Napoli 7, 00187 Rome,

+39 0333 636 4851, chiarabaschieri.it

* for map go to page 90

A TRUE TASTE OF ITALY

Anyone looking to explore Italian food

should pay a visit to Eataly’s Rome fagship,

a 17,000-square-metre space that is home to

more than 14,000 high-quality food and wine

products, 23 restaurants, 40 learning areas and

eight classrooms which host lessons and courses

in Italian food culture. Nowhere else in the city

will you fnd such a delicious ofering; eat pasta,

pizza, fsh, meat, vegetables, salami, cheese

and more, stop for a birra (beer) or sample

a delicious gelato (ice cream). Look out for

master cheesemaker Roberto Battaglia making

fresh mozzarella. A visit to the top foor reveals

Spazio, a restaurant-cum-laboratory where

chefs both established and up-and-coming add

their own spin to traditional Italian dishes. This

is a must-see attraction for anyone who likes to

explore culture through food. hl

Eataly,

Piazzale XII Ottobre 1492, 00154 Rome,

+39 06 9027 9201,

eataly.net

SHOP | 51

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WELCOME HOME

The Eternal City has added another jewel to

its crown with the inauguration of Bulgari’s

Domus space in its Via dei Condotti store. The

name is derived from the Latin for home, and

Domus’s rooms are both warm and glamorous.

Visitors are invited to admire Bulgari’s Heritage

Collection, comprised of 600 unique pieces,

in the exhibition gallery, or simply soak up

the brand’s history and art in the seating area.

As well as being a permanent home for the

Heritage Collection, the Domus space will be

the setting for cultural events, performances

and private art exhibitions. In keeping with

the brand’s impressive history of Italian

craftsmanship, this space celebrates the pivotal

role Rome has played in inspiring its creations.

Accessible by appointment only, this exclusive

space is sure to become a frm favourite with

Bulgari afcionados. th

Bulgari, Via dei Condotti 10, 00187 Rome,

+39 06 696261, bulgari.com

* for map go to page 96

PROJECT RUNWAY

Project149 was launched in 2013 by Elisa

Vigilante and Monica Mignone and, right

from the start, their unique designs generated

the type of interest most fedgling brands

can only dream of. In 2013, Project149

was featured in Vogue Italia’s New Talent

section and the following year Vigilante and

Mignone were fnalists in the Who Is On

Next? competition, which scouts up-and-

coming designers. Since then, the Cremona-

based company has built a solid reputation

for feminine and sophisticated pieces. Its

spring/summer 2015 collection is inspired by

the natural world, with a lush palette of lilac,

mint and crimson. th

Surplustore,

Via Flaminia Vecchia 477-481,

00191 Rome,

+39 06 3322 5131,

project149.com

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From signing up to Greenpeace initiatives to working with sustainable fabric producers, Italy’s fashion industry is

becoming increasingly eco-friendly, says Sally McIlhone

SUSTAINABLE

STYLE

In recent years, the international fashion industry has increasingly started to embrace eco-friendly processes, fabrics and attitudes. The goal of today’s fashion connoisseur is not to own a vast wardrobe of disposable garments, but a well-constructed collection of timeless pieces made using sustainable methods. Sustainability has been recognised as a key issue for both the Italian food and fashion industries, so much so that it is one of the main themes of Expo Milano 2015, which takes place in Milan between May and October.

With the world’s population increasing year on year, establishing sustainable food production methods is an issue of vital importance. Italian deli chain Eataly works with the country’s farmers, cheesemakers and butchers to ensure it stocks the fnest ingredients available, and also tries to minimise its impact on the environment. Eataly is just one of a host of Italian food companies seeking ways to be more sustainable. The Italian fashion industry is following suit, backing sustainable production methods, committing

Lef: a mood board at Miroglio’s textile plant in Alba 116 126131

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Above (from top): Miroglio textile plant in Alba; Milano Unica textile fair

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to Greenpeace initiatives and launching eco-friendly capsule collections.

Milan Fashion Week autumn/winter 2014 saw Italy’s Ministry of the Environment present a programme that highlighted the fashion industry’s eco footprint. The Ministry, working alongside Connect4Climate, aims to reduce the carbon and water output of more than 200 companies by identifying carbon management practices and supporting low-carbon technology in clothing production.

‘The Italian fashion system is committed to combining the quality of its products with a deep concern for sustainability,’ says Corrado Clini, former director general of the Ministry of the Environment. ‘This means not only adopting strategies and production processes that have a minimal environmental impact, but also – perhaps more importantly – searching for new materials and innovative solutions that enhance the competitiveness of our fashion industry and consolidate its international excellence.’

A number of Italian fashion labels have demonstrated their commitment to combining quality and sustainability in recent years. Alberta Ferretti teamed up with British actress

Emma Watson to produce a sustainable fve-piece capsule collection called Pure Threads in 2011. Gucci launched its Sustainable Soles footwear range in May 2012 and Diesel collaborated with Edun on a denim collection for spring/summer 2013; founded by Bono and his wife Ali Hewson, the Edun label aims to create positive change through its trading relationship with Africa.

54 | F E AT U R E S

Above: Valentino (pictured lef) and Beneton (right) have both signed up to Greenpeace’s Detox campaign

In addition, brands including Valentino and Benetton have signed up to Greenpeace’s Detox campaign, which challenges elite clothing labels to eliminate releases of hazardous chemicals into the world’s water supply. The commitment on Italy’s part extends beyond its largest designer and high-street brands to the fabric manufacturers who supply their materials. The Miroglio Group produces fabrics for the likes of Motivi and Elena Mirò and is committed to sustainability.

‘In recent years the Miroglio Group has made important investments in next-generation printing technologies in order to ensure environmental sustainability at the Miroglio

The Italian brands embracing sustainable values range from elite designers and high-street names to fabric manufacturers

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Above (from top): fabric swatches at Miroglio’s textile plant in Govone; Miroglio group chairman Giuseppe Miroglio

Textile plants in Govone and Alba,’ says group chairman Giuseppe Miroglio. ‘This has led to notable reductions in water and energy consumption and CO2 emissions. As such, we have already begun this process and we plan to continue to pursue this philosophy in a serious and responsible manner.’

Milano Unica, Italy’s international textile fair, has become increasingly concerned with exhibiting fabrics from sustainable textile companies in the last fve years. One such producer is Canepa, which uses an innovative process of textile fnishing. ‘This process is based on a biopolymer called kitosan, the result of the recycling of the shrimp shell,’ explains Alfonso Saibene Canepa, head of the brand’s sustainability programme. ‘It is sustainable because the energy and water consumed thanks to this substance is 40% less than in the traditional textile process.’

Aurora Magni, a consultant to Milano Unica, points out that Italian and European mills are subject to strict rules regarding environmental responsibility. ‘Yet, important as this might be, it is no longer enough,’ says Magni. ‘Fashion brands and retailers

Greenpeace’s Detox campaign ensures fashion brands prioritise sustainability

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Above (clockwise from lef): Canepa factory; Milano Unica textile fair; Canepa spring/summer 2015

Sustainability is worthwhile when garments stocked in Rome’s leading boutiques are helping to protect the planet

are increasingly demanding with suppliers, requesting specifc guarantees that certain chemical components are totally avoided during the production process.’

Greenpeace’s Detox campaign holds fashion brands to account, ensuring they work with the most eco-friendly producers to ensure various sustainable standards are met. Milano Unica helps to connect brands with these ethical suppliers. ‘We have chosen the much-appreciated technical catalogue as the tool capable of emphasising the green features of the textile and accessory mills,’ says Massimo Mosiello, Milano Unica’s general manager. ‘In order to be listed in the catalogue,

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companies must provide factual information and documents. Our aim is to guarantee clients that any information on fabrics and accessories is real and trustworthy in order to make identifcation easier.’

Committing to sustainability places additional pressures on brands, but is surely worthwhile if it means that garments stocked in Rome’s leading boutiques are helping to protect the planet. ‘Many companies have understood the competitive advantage of being renowned as ethical and responsible,’ Magni concludes. ‘Being an ethical company is far from easy but the market is willing to acknowledge and reward such eforts.’

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ROMA | VIA FRATTINA, 19

FENDIIN FOCUS:

A fashion house with personality, Fendi combines artisanal craftsmanship with contemporary

innovation, says Harriet Quick

SHOP | 65

Lef: Cara Delevingne showcases Fendi’s spring/summer 2015 collection

/122 128133

Exotic fora and fauna have been associated with classic femininity since women were frst depicted in art. Fendi neatly updated that trope in its spring/summer 2015 collection. Cara Delevingne opened the show in an A-line dress covered with a blue, pink and white orchid motif, her hair held back with a long leather leaf that bounced jauntily on her shoulders

like a tribal talisman. She was carrying the new miniature version of Fendi’s bestselling Peekaboo bag.

Like many luxury fashion houses, Fendi’s roots are in luggage and saddle-making. Its frst store, a small atelier, was founded in Rome in 1925 by married couple Adele and Edoardo Fendi. This was a period of

Above (from top): Fendi feathered dresses, spring/summer 2015; the brand’s creative director Karl Lagerfeld

great artistic discovery and architectural experimentation and the company prided itself on its artisanship, forward-thinking design and beautifully crafted leather goods that seduced and charmed with their ebullience and innovation, emphasised by the house colour – a vivid yellow. The couple’s fve daughters joined the business shortly afterwards and helped the brand grow into a fashion powerhouse, employing Karl Lagerfeld, still Fendi’s creative director, in the late 1960s.

The techniques and crafts used at Fendi are now so advanced it is often difcult to see how garments that are so intricate and delicate in their construction hold together. The shift worn by Cara Delevingne features thin slashes that reveal an under-layer of tulle creating an articulated ‘armour’. There are party dresses

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made of layers of sky blue or sugar pink feathers fastened at the waist with plaited belts and lacquered leathers lacerated at the torso to create a malleable ‘cage’. Elsewhere, leather vests feature handpainted motifs inspired by Giorgio de Chirico’s metaphysical paintings.

Fendi, now majority-owned by LVMH, holds a pivotal position in the modern luxury landscape. The house, which celebrates its 90th anniversary in 2015, has recently moved into a newly restored landmark building – the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana. The striking 1940s building, its facades composed of stacked arches, is a triumph of architecture, housing the design studios, ofces, archives and team of 400 staf. It will serve as an archival showcase for Fendi’s design history

Above (clockwise from top lef): two looks from Fendi; the brand’s Baguete bag, all spring/summer 2015

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Above (clockwise from top lef): Fendi Karlito bag charm and Baguete bag; miniature Peekaboo bag with Bag Bug charm, Fan di Fendi eau de parfum; leather vest with hand-painted motifs, all fashion items spring/summer 2015

and the many iconic designs the brand has developed over the years.

The Baguette bag is one such design, the piece that launched the appetite for so-called ‘It’ bags back in 1997. ‘I was asked, among other things, to come up with a particularly easy and functional handbag. In a certain sense, it had to be technological and minimal, just like the times,’ says Silvia Venturini Fendi, the creative director of accessories and granddaughter of Adele Fendi. ‘My response –fortunately I am indomitably disobedient – was the Baguette: the exact opposite of what had been requested of me. It was an unprecedented success; one of the most desired objects in the world.’ Using the inventive My Baguette app you can now even choose your own embellishments and colours.

The Selleria line, launched in 1938, boasts contrast stitching on supple, grainy Romano leather while Fendi’s adorable Bag Bugs, crafted from furs and leather, resemble small

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animals and cartoon characters, including one of Karl Lagerfeld himself. The Bag Bugs have achieved cult-like status in the fashion world and are owned by a host of style pin-ups, from Vogue Japan’s Anna Dello Russo to Solange Knowles, who carry and treasure them like pets. ‘The inspiration came when I was on a trip to Brazil and saw amazing tropical birds, each with beautifully colourful feathers and plumes,’ says Venturini Fendi.

The Fendi world also includes handcrafted furniture, perfume – the bestseller is simply called Fan di Fendi – watches and characterful sunglasses. Artisanship clearly runs in the family: Silvia Venturini Fendi’s daughter Delfna Delettrez also has her own line of bold, surrealist jewellery.

What Fendi has in spades is character and a sense of humour – a rare quality in the serious world of luxury. Enter the Fendi universe and you are guaranteed to come out smiling fendi.com

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Fendi has both character and a strong sense of humour

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The artistically dishevelled elegance that pervades the 1960 flm Plein Soleil still infuences the Italian sense of style today, says Josh Sims

FOREVER

Above: Alain Delon’s unbutoned shirts, worn in French thriller Plein Soleil, epitomise coastal chic

/124 130136

With its themes of fashion and deception, French thriller Plein Soleil is regarded as one of the most stylish flms of the 1960s. The plot follows the impoverished Tom Ripley as he befriends the wealthy Philippe Greenleaf and sets about stealing his identity amid the glamour of the Italian coast. The flm is known for its strong aesthetic; picture-postcard Italian vistas, luxury yachts, piazza cafés and bachelor apartments share the spotlight with the undeniable stars of the flm, Ripley’s and Greenleaf’s wardrobes. It’s what its stars wear that has made it one of the most stylish movies ever and, as it reaches its 55th anniversary, its infuence on the Italian sense of style is still evident today.

The flm’s yachting scenes ofer a rolling catwalk of polo and foral short-sleeved shirts, and loose linen shirts worn artfully half-tucked and always unbuttoned to at least mid-chest, as though, frankly, one just couldn’t be bothered to do them up any further. Of-white jeans with suede snafe-bit loafers and rolled khakis with espadrilles epitomise coastal chic, while shantung silk suits in muted tones of grey, pale cream or blue complement the scenes staged in Rome. Dark suits are teamed with white loafers in a way that would make an expert in fashion etiquette blush, and socks are never seen. A striped boating blazer, set of

72 | F E AT U R E S

COOL

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74 | FEATURES

Above (from top): the Plein Soleil flm is a rolling catwalk of polo foral shirts; suits in muted tones of grey feature in Giorgio Armani’s spring/summer 2015 collection

monogrammed shirts and selection of rep ties

complete Greenleaf’s jet-setting attire.

One extended scene, in which Ripley

wanders around a street market, could have

been taken straight from the catwalk, with

Ripley as played by Alain Delon appearing to

be part male model, part maniac. Delon even

strikes a somewhat clichéd pose, shirtsleeves

rolled and a blazer slung over his shoulder.

Style often appears to trump substance; rather

than a much-anticipated arrest scene, the flm’s

fnal image is of Ripley, cool in his trunks and

chunky cardigan, strolling along the beach.

One of the underlying themes of the flm

is the way clothing can be used as costume,

and not just worn by actors portraying a part;

the characters themselves also wear costumes

in order to become other people. In one scene,

for example, Greenleaf catches Ripley trying

on some of his clothes, eerily foreshadowing

subsequent events. Even so, despite the flm’s

use of clothing as artifce, it has been cited by

various commentators from the likes of GQ,

Studio Canal and H&M Life as providing

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Above (from top): polo shirts, seen here at Brioni’s spring/summer 2015 show, were a favourite of Mr Ripley’s; Plein Soleil’s yachting scenes showcase simple but striking nautical style

The clothing worn in Plein Soleil echoes the colours of the Italian landscape

And it’s a style that remains relevant more

than half a century on. ‘There’s a whole new

generation following its cues to dress in a

more overtly prosperous way, to look sharp

again even when dressed very casually,’ argues

British tailor and designer Timothy Everest,

who worked on costumes for the 1999 remake,

The Talented Mr Ripley. ‘It’s the playboy style:

classic but worn in such a relaxed way that it

suggests money and the confdence not to care

much about how you look, while all the while

actually putting a lot of efort into it.’

The look is essentially a distillation of attire

favoured by the wealthy, sun-kissed gadabout

of the early 1960s, those with endless income

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ROMA

Via del Corso 122/125 - T.+39 06 69923930Via Cola Di Rienzo 245/249 - T.+39 06 3218479Viale Europa 70/72/74 - T.+39 06 59290380Galleria Commerciale Porta di Roma - T.+39 06 87074331

78 | FEATURES

Above (from top): the infuence of yachting style is evident in Salvatore Ferragamo’s spring/summer 2015 collection; Plein Soleil is regarded as one of the most stylish flms of the 1960s

The stars of Plein Soleil were not only the actors but also their wardrobes

and leisure time who were able to see the world

as a playground. Modern Italian fashion often

references this artfully relaxed style, avoiding

loud patterns and incorporating luxurious

fabrics into looks that have been put together

in a carefully dishevelled way. The clothing

worn by both Ripley and Greenleaf also

echoed the Italian landscape. Shades of

washed-out white are worn against the aged

wood of the quay or the stonework of an

ancient piece of architecture, shades of blue

set against the vibrant Mediterranean Sea,

and pale pink refected in the canvas sails

of Greenleaf’s yacht.

Although Delon didn’t dress himself in

Plein Soleil – that was the work of costume

designer Bella Clément – efortless chic became

something the actor could sell throughout his

life: in 1978 he launched a successful fragrance,

followed by clothing and accessories lines. Even

so, the flm that made him famous uses clothes

on a much deeper level: to codify character –

displaying diferences in class, education and

lifestyle – and to suggest how interchangeable

these diferences are to the world at large after

a simple change of clothing. When Greenleaf

admonishes Ripley by saying, ‘No, you can’t

come aboard [my yacht] in those shoes,’ it’s

not quite clear whether it’s their suitability

for wearing on deck that is in doubt or their

suitability to be worn anywhere. The question

is never answered. Style obsessives have been

worrying about it ever since

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80 | EXPER IENCE

While it’s difcult to have a bad gelato when

in Rome, a select few of the city’s multitude

of gelaterias take the art of ice cream to a whole

new level. Although the frst versions of ice

cream are believed to date back to ancient Rome

and Egypt, ice cream only became popular in

Italy in the 1920s, thanks to the creation of the

country’s frst ice cream cart.

Italians are rightly proud of the fact that

around half of the country’s ice cream makers

are artisanal producers who create the dessert

by hand. Visitors to Rome will notice a focus on

a painstakingly handmade approach, using only

the best quality ingredients. A prime example

of this is the famous Gelato di San Crispino,

one of the city’s longest-established gourmet

gelaterias, which even made an appearance in

the best-selling novel and flm Eat, Pray, Love.

In addition, Rome’s ice cream makers are not

afraid to experiment with favours. Strawberry,

chocolate and vanilla are all delicious classics,

but prepare to be a little more adventurous if

you visit Gelateria Fatamorgana, where unusual

scoops include wasabi and black olive.

COLD

COMFORTRome’s outstanding gelaterias mix

artisanal techniques with cutting-

edge favour combinations, making

an ice cream experience to savour,

as Isabella Redmond Styles discovers

SHOP | 81

G E L A T E R I A

F A T A M O R G A N A

Gelateria Fatamorgana

was founded by Maria

Agnese Spagnuolo, gelato

expert extraordinaire.

Spagnuolo, who grew up

in Apulia, was inspired

by the ice creams of her

childhood and developed

a passion for making ice

cream from a very young

age. After pursuing a career

in acting, she eventually

returned to her dream of

making natural, gluten-free

homemade ice cream, and

attracted praise for her ability

to create multiple favour

combinations. There are

now seven outlets across

Rome where visitors can

sample three diferent types

of pistachio ice cream and

sorbets such as rose and

grapefruit or chocolate

and orange.

Gelateria Fatamorgana,

Via Laurina 10,

00187 Rome,

+39 06 3265 2238,

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F L O R

A relative newcomer to the city’s gelato scene,

Flor set up shop in 2011 and already has a

loyal fan base worldwide. This is in no small

way due to its high-quality all-natural range

of ice creams, which are based on traditional

recipes. Flor now has three shops in Rome, all

of which serve the company’s selection of over

50 favours alongside biscuits, crêpes, wafes

and semifreddo desserts.

Flor, Piazza Campo de Fiori 51, 00186 Rome,

+39 033 8563 7012, gelatifor.it

G I O L I T T I

As Rome’s oldest gelateria, Giolitti certainly

knows what it’s doing when it comes to

ice cream. Originally opened in 1890 by

Giuseppe and Bernadina Giolitti, the Via

Ufci del Vicario parlour is a must-visit for

traditional gelato made to the very highest

standards. Order the Coppa Giolitti, a

delicious combination of chocolate ice cream,

custard and chilled zabaione, topped with

cream and toasted hazelnuts. The recipe dates

back to 1920 and is still a favourite today.

Giolitti,

Via degli Ufci del Vicario 40, 00186 Rome,

+39 06 699 1243, giolitti.it

I L G E L A T O D I S A N C R I S P I N O

This gelateria has a branch near the Pantheon

and another close to the Trevi fountain, two

of Rome’s main visitor attractions, so you’ll

often fnd people queueing out of the doors.

Il Gelato di San Crispino is known for its

exacting approach to ice cream, using only the

best ingredients and no artifcial preservatives.

Il Gelato di San Crispino,

Via della Panetteria 42, 00187 Rome,

+39 06 679 3924,

ilgelatodisancrispino.it

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84 | GUIDE

Above: the city’s famous Trevi fountain is one of the most beautiful and best-known in the world

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Rome with a

look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the fnest sweet treats to the

coolest concept stores. Start with our recommendations before delving deeper

with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints

and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/rome.

A GLIMPSE OF ROME

GUIDE

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globalblue.com

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SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY

‘It’s impossible not to be seduced

by Rome’s ancient grandeur

and old-world charm’ – Isabella

Redmond Styles, SHOP’s city

guide and lifestyle editor

GUIDE | 87

Follow our team’s travels on

Instagram @shopcontent. Tag

us in your city pictures when

sharing them and you might

see them in print!

88 | GUIDE

Place Of Interest Metro

VIA

EZ

IO

VIA DEI CAPPELLARI

VIA DEI GR ACCHI

VIA DEI GR ACCHI

VIA DEI GRACCHI

VIA GERMANICO

VIA POMPEO MAGNO

VIA POMPEO MAGNO

VIA

DE

I PE

NIT

EN

ZIE

RI

VIA

LE

DE

LL

E M

UR

A A

UR

EL

IE

VIA

GIU

LIA

VIA

GIU

LIA

VIA DEI BANCH I NUOVI

VIA DEL GOVERNO VECCHIO

VIA DEI CORONARI

VIA DEGLI SCIPIONI

VIA DEGLI SCIPIONI

VIA

SIL

LA

VIA

DE

I BA

NC

HI V

ECCH

I

VIA DI MO

NS

ER

RA

TO

VIA DEL PELLEGRINO

VIA

DI PA

NICO

VIA

DI S

AN

TA

MA

RIA

DE

LL'A

NIM

A

BORGO SANTO SPIRITO

VIA

AL

ES

SA

ND

RO

FA

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E

VIA PLINIO

VIA VALADIERV

IA M

AR

CA

NT

ON

IO C

OL

ON

NA

V

IA C

ICE

RO

NE

VIA GIUSEPPE GIOACHINO BELLI

VIA

TAC

ITO

VIA

TAC

ITO

VIA

OR

AZ

IO

VIA

PA

OL

O E

MIL

IO V

IA O

VID

IOVIA BOEZIO

VIA ENNIO QUIRINO VISCONTI

VIA

FA

BIO

MA

SS

IMO

VIA

TE

RE

NZ

IO

VIA ALBERICO II

VIA STEFANO PORCARI VIA GIOVANNI VITELLESCHI

VIA

DE

GL

I OM

BR

EL

LA

RI

VIA DELLA CONCILIAZIONE

VIA

DI P

OR

TA

AN

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LIC

A

LUN

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OL

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VIA

VIR

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BA

RL

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TA

V

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AS

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CORSO VITTO

RIO EMA

NU

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CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE II

LUNGOTEVERE TOR DI NONA LUNG OTEVERE M

ARZIO

LUN

GO

TE

VE

RE

DE

L SA

NG

ALLO

VIA COLA DI RIENZO

VIA COLA DI RIENZO

VIA CRESCENZIO VIA CRESCENZIO

VIA DEI COR R IDORI BORGO SANT'ANGELO

VIALE GIULIO CESARE

VIALE GIULIO CESARE

LU

NG

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ICH

EL

AN

GE

LO

LUN

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VIA VITTORIA COLONNA Piazza

Adriana

PiazzaCavour

Piazzadella

Libertà

PIAZZANAVONA

LEPANTO

OTTAVIANOSAN PIETRO -MUSEI VATICANI

PIAZZA SAN PIETRO

VIA DELLACONCILIAZIONE

CASTEL SANT’ANGELO

PALAZZODI GIUSTIZIA

PONTESANT'ANGELO

PiazzaDei

Quiriti

Piazza DelRisorgimento

page

110

page

108

ROME

globalblue.com

SHOP | 89

VIA LAZIO

V

IA SARDEGNA

VIA DEI PREFETTI

VIA DELLA MERCEDE

VIA

XI

X

VM

AG

GIO

VIA D

EL QUIR

INALE

V

IA V

ENTI SETTEM

BRE

VIMINAL HILL

VIA I V NOVEMBRE

VIA

DE

LL

A P

ILO

TT

A

VIA DEL SE MINARIO

VIA

DE

LL

A R

OT

ON

DA

VIA DEL POZZO

VIA M

AR

GU

TTA

VIA VITTORIA

VIA FR ATTINA

VIA DELLE COPPELLE

VIA DELL'UMILTÀ VIA DELLA DATARIA V

IA MILA

NO

VIA M

ILAN

O

VIA LUDOVISI

VIA BONCOMPAGNI

VIA LOMBARDIA

VIA SICILIA

VIA D

I SA

N B

ASIL

IO

VIA LIGURIA

VIA DELL A CROCE

VIA

LE G

ABRIELE D'ANNUNZIO

VIALE TRINITÀ DEI M

ON

TI

VIA SISTINA

VIA SISTINA

VIA DELLE QUATTRO FONTANE

VIA

FR

AN

CE

SC

O C

RIS

PI

V

IA D

I PO

RTA

PIN

CIA

NA

VIA

LE SAN

PAOLO

DEL BR

ASILE

VIA N

AZIONALE

VIA N

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VIA

DI R

IPE

TT

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VIA CONDOTTI

VI A DEL PLEBISCITO

VIA D

EL BABU

INO

VIA D

EI DU

E MACELLI

VIA

VIT

TO

RIO

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NE

TO

VIA

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CORSO D'IT ALIAVIA PINCIANA

VIA DEL TRITONE

VIA DEL TRITONE

VIA BARBERINI

VIA

DE

L C

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VIA

DE

L C

OR

SO

VIA

DE

L C

OR

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VIA

DE

L C

OR

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VIA TOMACELLI

Piazza DelPopolo

PiazzaColonna

PiazzaVenezia

Piazza diSan Silvestro

PiazzaBarberini

Piazza delParlamento

PiazzaDella

Rotonda

FONTANADI TREVI

SANT’IGNAZIO

SANTA MARIASOPRA MINERVA

PANTHEON

PALAZZO DIMONTECITORIO

COLONNA AURELIA

PIAZZA DISAN LORENZO

IN LUCINA

VIA FONTANELLABORGHESE

PiazzaAugustoImperatore

MAUSOLEODI AUGUSTO

VILLA BORGHESE

SPAGNA

BARBERINIFONTANA DI TREVI

PIAZZADI SPAGNA

TRINITÀDEI MONTI

PiazzaMignanelli

page

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page

98

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102

page

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page

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page

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Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

90 | GUIDE

Via del Babuino Via Margutta

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VIA

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VIA DI GESU E MARIA

VIA DI SAN GIACOMO

VIA DEI GRECI

VIA DELLE FONTANELLA

VIA VITTORIA VIA ALIBERT

VIA LAURINA

VIA

DE

L B

AB

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VIA

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L B

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VIA DELLA CROCE VIA DI SAN SEBASTIANELLOPiazza Di Spagna

● LELLI

● EMMA OTTO

● SADDLERS UNION

● DALIDA'

● SERGIO NESCI

● ARTEMIDE

● MARCHETTI

● BRUNO MURATORI

● CAMPAIOLA

● MARGUTTA OTTICA

● VUELLE

● E&R DANON

● VENEZIANI

● RICHARD DI CASTRO

● ANIMALIER E OLTRE

● COCOZZA

● CONSORTI

● MUCCI

● IL MARMORARO

● MASSONI

● IL MONDO DELL’ARTE

● PALAZZO MARGUTTA

● FLAIR

● MONOGRAMMA

● MONIES

● ENIGMA

BONUCCELI ●

GOFFI CARBONI ●

GROSSI MAURIZIO ●

ARTEMIDE ●

GALLERIA VITTORIA ●

MARGUTTA 102 ●

AREA CONTESA ●

PROFUMERIA HB ●

CHIARA BASCHIERI ●

TROLLBEADS ●

RED VALENTINO ●

NUOVA ANTE PRIMA ●

SERRA ●

CINOA ●

MARIO OASI ●

COEN ●

GENTE ●

LA NUVOLA ●

RINALDI ●

MARGUTTA FACTORY ●

LA PALLINA ●

GIO

VA

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VIA DEI GRECI

VIA MARGUTTA

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VIA VITTORIA

VIA ALIBERT

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LC

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VIA

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VIA DELLE CARROZZE

Piazza Di Spagna

● 100% CAPRI● DE GRISOGONO● PALAZZO FABI● BOGGI● CHOPARD

● HERVÉ LÉGER● DODO● RIENZI● COMPAGNIA ITALIANA● VOGUE SHOP● BARRILÀ BOUTIQUE● TORY BURCH● BRIONI

● JO MALONE● DE NICOLA● OMAI NOW OR NEVER

● SANDRO FERRONE

● CARLUCCI

● AAA

● SANDRO

● HB PROFUMERIE

● DAVID MAYER NAMAN

● TUMI

● CANALI● FRATELLI ROSSETTI● RED VALENTINO● HAUSMANN & CO ● IL GUFO● MISS GRANT

● VHERNIER● ARMANI JEANS

● SERAPIAN● STONE ISLAND● GENTE

● GENTE● FLOS● PIAZZA SEMPIONE● ICEBERG● MIU MIU

● PINKO● KIEHLS● ERMANNO SCERVINO● CHANEL● ETRO● CIR● MATTIOLI● COSTUME NATIONAL

OTTICA SPEZIA ●CESARI ●GENTE ●

ZIMMER -RHODE ●PUNTO PELLE ●

RIENZI ●

FABRIANO ●MAJE ●

PETIT BATEAU ●

MARIO LUCCHESE ●MALÌPARMI ●

FABRIZIO BULCKAEN ● MOSCHINO ●

LEO PIZZO ●

ROY ROGERS ●

MANILA GRACE ●ROSATO ●

RUCOLINE ●

GALLERIA D’ARTE BENUCCI ●

BALDININI ●F.M. MEGNA ●ANTEPRIMA ●

ASPESI ●TOY WATCH ●ANTONACCI ●

EMPORIO ARMANI ●ANTIQUARIO ●

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN●

W. A POLLONI ●

KITON ●DECORARTE ●

MAC ●HERZEL DE BACH ●

VILEBREQUIN●

TIFFANY & CO. ●

HOGAN ●

TRIDENTE AREA

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92 | GUIDE

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

Piazza di Spagna & Via Bocca di LeoneVIAGREGORIANA

VIADEIDUEMACELLI

VIADEIDUEMACELLI

VIA DI CAPO LE CASE

VIADIPROPAGANDA

● CHIURATO MICHELE

● EDITH B

● HOSS INTROPIA

● PINEIDER

● TAMMARO

● OTTICA BILECI

● JACKSON

● PINKO

● PELLETTERIA FLACCO

● EDISON

● RALPH

● VICTORY

● KAMINSKY

● LA BOTTEGA DI ELI

MANDARINADUCK ●

METTIMI GIÙ ●ILLY SHOP ●

59/A ●RED & BLUE ●

METTIMI GIU' ●CASTELLO D’AURIA ●

RENARD ●

GABRIEL STORE ●

BATA ●

VICTORY ●

I-D ●

ROSA FISH ●

VIA DEI GRECI

VIA

BE

LS

IAN

A

VIA

BO

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VIA

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Via Vittoria Via dei Due Macelli

VIA CONDOTTIVIA CONDOTTI

VIA

SIS

TIN

A

VIA

GR

EG

OR

IAN

AV

IAB

EL

SIA

NA

VIA

BE

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AVIA VITTORIA

VIA VITTORIA VIA ALIBERT

VIA DELL A CROCE

VIA DELL A CROCE

VIA DELLE CARROZZE

VIA BORGOGNONA VIA BORGOGNONAV

IAB

OC

CA

DI

LE

ON

EV

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VIA FR ATTINA

VIA FR ATTINA

VIA DI SAN SEBASTIANELLO

VIA

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PiazzaMignanelli

WP

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●

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●

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● FURLA

● ACQUA DI PARMA

● IWC ● GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN

● NESPRESSO

● VALENTINO

● BRUNO CALO ● CROMIA● PIER CARANTI

SERGIOROSSI ●

PURA LOPEZ ●DOLCE &

GABBANA ●JAGER LE

COULTRE ●EFRATI ●

CASADEI ● EMILIO PUCCI ●

CHANEL ●LONGCHAMP ●

SANTONI ●MISSONI ●

DIOR ● CAMPER ●

LOEWE ●

SEPHORA ●

K-WAY ●SERMONETA ●

DI CORI ●

ROSSATI ●

ALEXANDER ●

● VERSACE

● DIESEL

Giorgio de Chirico House-Museum

● FLEUR LUXURY LIVING

● ANITA ROMANI

● IL PESCIOLINO ROSSO

● CARNEVALI● AMINA RUBINACCI● CORRADINI

● ZINTALA● GIORGIA R

● CHRISTOFLE

● BLUGIRL

● GENNY

● EMPORIO SAN FIRENZE

● BOTTEGA DELL’ARGENTO

● CESARE PACIOTTI

SPAZIO MANASSEI GIOIELLI ●

ALBERT MOLAYEM ●

LA PERLA ●

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ●

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ●

TINA ●

MARNI ●

WHO'S WHO ●

● BLU GIRL

P.138P.100

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Featured In This Issue

DIESEL STORE ROMA Via del Corso, 1 18

DIESEL FLAGSHIP STORE ROMA Piazza di Spagna, 18 - angolo Vicolo del Bottino

SHOP | 95

Via Belsiana, Via Mario de’ Fiori & Via del Gambero

VIA DELLE CARROZZE

VIA BORGOGNONA VIA BORGOGNONA

VIA DELLA VITE

VIA

LE

DE

LL

A T

RIN

ITA

DE

L M

ON

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VIA

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VIA VITTORIA

VIA ALIBERT

VIA

DE

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VIA DELLA CROCE

VIA DELLA CROCE

VIA CONDOTTI VIA CONDOTTI

VIA FR ATTINA VIA FR ATTINA

VIA

DI

SA

N S

EB

AS

TIA

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LL

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V

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Piazza Di Spagna

PiazzaMignanelli

V. VITTORIA GIOIELLI ●

BARTON'S ●

ORAFO ●

HENRY BEGUELIN ●

VERTECCHI ●

L'ANELLERIA ●

CASTIELLO ●

CASHMIRINO ●BORGHINI ●

BELSIANA 91 ● BORGHINI ●

PICCO GIOIELLI ●

ALBERTA FERRETTI ●

NIKI NIKA ●

MALO ●

KEEP OUTLET ●

RUCOLINE ●

HAVAIANAS ●

NIA OUTLET ●

FIORENTINO ●

PANCRISIA ●LAURA

BIAGIOTTI ●

BADURA ●

IMPERATORE DI CAPRI ●

WATCH POINT ●

MADE IN ITALY ●

● MALO ACCESSORI

● LUIGI BORRELLI

● ZOPPIA

● ILEANA DELLA CORTE

● I CARTAI

● FLORENCE MOON● C.U.C.I.N.A.

● WOLFORD● MANUELE ZOO● MARTINO MIDALI

● BL GIOIELLI

● BRACCIALINI

● CAMEO CENTER

● LA MERCERIA ● WORLD ORIGINAL WATCH

● BARTON'S

● LA VIE VOLEUSE

● CORNER● VERTECCHI ● MONTBLANC

● COSE● TIZIANA MODIANO

● FABRIS

● GIOIELLI DI COCO’

● GREMESE

● CHOSES

● GIOIELLERIA MARONI

● MOSTROLEO

● TRONCONI

● GHERARDINI

● BOZART

● DOMUS CALZATURE

● FGF STORE

● CHIARA BLU

● COMPAGNIA ITALIANA

● VANITA

● KLIP

BALDININI ●OUTFITFABI ●

LALA ITALIA ●VIA DEL GAMBERO 20●

PITRAN ●VALAMBERT ●

FRANCESCHINI ●

ATOS LOMBARDINI

Fashion label Atos Lombardini is committed to producing quality womenswear, all of it made in Italy with a passion for great style, top quality and excellent materials and craftsmanship. Explore the latest range at the fagship store on Via Frattina. The creative team has embraced varied aspects of the Mediterranean – the bright white buildings of the coast, the patterns of local crafts, the warm colours of the sun and the deep blues of the sea – to create a collection perfect for the warmer months.

Atos Lombardini,Via Frattina 19A, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 5473, atoslombardini.com

* for map go to page 96

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Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

96 | GUIDE

Via Condotti, Via Frattina & Via della Croce

Via delle Carrozze Via Borgognona

VIA BORGOGNONA

VIA

BE

LS

IAN

A V

IA B

EL

SIA

NA

VIA

BE

LS

IAN

A V

IA B

EL

SIA

NA

VIA FR ATTINA VIA FR ATTINA

VIA DELLE CARROZZE

VIA CONDOTTI

VIA

MA

RIO

DE

’FIO

RI V

IA M

AR

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E’F

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I VIA

MA

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DE

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VIA DELLA CROCE VIA DELLA CROCE

VIA

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VIA

DE

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DI L

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BO

CC

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PiazzaMignanelli

Piazza Di Spagna

XA

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P.48/106

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Featured In This Issue

P.42

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

98 | GUIDE

Via del Corso (North) Via del Corso (Central)

VIA DELL' OCA

VIA DEL VANTAGGIO

VIA ANTONIO CANOVA

VIA DI GESU E MARIA

VIA DI SAN GIACOMO

VIA DEI GRECI

VIA

DI

RIP

ET

TA

VIA DEI PONTEFICI

VIA DELL A CROCE

VIA VITTORIA

VIA

DE

L C

OR

SO

V

IA D

EL

CO

RS

O

VIA

DE

L C

OR

SO

V

IA D

EL

CO

RS

O

VIA DELLE FONTANELL A

VIA

DE

L B

AB

UIN

O

● BORSALINO

Piazza DelPopolo

● ZEISS HOUSE

BERNABEI ●KINZLY ●

LU ●RE MISHELLE ●

DA PIETRO ●DAVID HAMILTON ●

KELOKURA ●

H&M ●

FOSSIL ●DESIGUAL ●

NUVOLARI ●OTTICA SOLE ●

DADADA ●

FLORENCE ●

BATA ●PIAZZA ITALIA ●

MAC ●

SEPHORA ●

GAUDI ●

NIKE ●

ADIDAS ●

REDFORD ●

GAP ●

ISHOP ●

● ALFIERI

● STEFANO RICCI

● ORIGINAL MARINES

● BOTTEGA VERDE● ANTHEA● NERO GIARDINI● DOMINIQUE● LUSH● 7 CAMICIE● REFRIGIWEAR● MURPHY & NYE

● PERUGINA● GAZELLE● COVER STORE● DIVA● BERNABEI● TATIÉ● SUBDUED● DOUBLE AGENT● FOOT LOCKER● PULL LOVE● MARCO

● LAB SHOES

● SISLEY● VANS

● ELISABETTA FRANCHI● PERLA● GOOD QUEEN● ST.MORITZ● SOLARIS● COCCINELLE

● LACOSTE● CATENELLA● ALCOTT● PEPE JEANS● MANILA GRACE● KEY● LU● BERNABEI● SIMONA● L’OCCITANE● DA VINCI● FRANCESCHINI

● MONDO WIND● MARELLA● INTIMISSIMI● EFFETTI● MARC O’POLO● ET MOI● ATHLETES WORLD● LA 3 STORE● NAU● CHOPIN● DAVID SADDLER

Largo deiLombardi

● SARTORIA RIPENSE

V

IA D

EL

L'I

MP

RE

SA

VIA

BE

LS

IAN

A V

IA B

EL

SIA

NA

VIA

DE

L G

AM

BE

RO

VIA DELLA VITE

VIA CONDOTTI

VIA

DE

L L

EONCINO

VIA SAN CL AUDIA

VIA FR ATTINA

VIA DELLE CARROZZE

VIA TOMACELLI

VIA

DE

L C

OR

SO

V

IA D

EL

CO

RS

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VIA

DE

L C

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V

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CO

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VIA IN LUCI N A

VIA DEL PARLAMENTO VIA DELLE CONVERTITE

V

IA D

I S

AN

TA

MA

RIA

IN

VIA

VIA BORGOGNONA

GEOX ●

CAMPER ●

BRANDY & MELVILLE ●

FENDI ●

VODAFONE ●7 CAMICIE ●

SISLEY ●HAMILTON ●

CORNER ●CARPISA ●

GREISY ●HAUSMANN & CO ●

ACCESSORIZE ●PUMA ●

INTIMISSIMI ●

FRETTE ●

SABABA ●

● CALZEDONIA● DECCIO CARLO● FORNARINA● GOLDEN POINT● ASOLE E BOTTONI● TALLY WEIJL● DIESEL● GUESS

● TWIN-SET● ZARA● ESOTICA

● LIU JO

● SWAROVSKI

● FALCONERI● STROILI ORO● ASOLE E BOTTONI ● NARA CAMICIE● KIKO

● LUCCHESI● TEZENIS● G.D.V.● MARC O’POLO● COLONNA● LUISA SPAGNOLI

● ESOTICA● YAMAMAY● OTTICA EFRATI● ALDO ● CARPISA

● DISNEY● GRILLI

● HOUR PASSION● DAVID MAYER NAMAN● CALZEDONIA● MANGO● SWATCH● LE GROUPE● STELLA Z● ENERGIE / MISS SIXTY

● ZARA

GalleriaAlberto

SordiPiazza Colonna

Piazza delParlamento

Piazza diSan Lorenzo

in Lucina

Piazza diSan Silvestro

H&M ●

● AMOUAGE

MA

SS

IMO

DU

TT

I ●

CA

LV

IN K

LE

IN JE

AN

S ●

BO

GG

I ●

CO

CC

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LA

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TW

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N ●

VIA DEL CORSO AREA

V I A D E I C O N D OT T I 2 7 , 0 0 1 8 7 RO M A S T UA RT W E I T Z M A N . C O M

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

100 | GUIDE

Via del Corso (South)

VIA DI PIETR A VIA DELLE MUR ATTE

VIA

DÈ

BU

RR

Ò

VIA

BE

RG

AM

AS

CH

I

VICOLO SCIARR A

VIA

DI S

AN

MA

RC

EL

LO

VIA L ATA VIA SS. APOSTOLI

VICOLO DEL PIOMBO

VIA DI M

ONTECATINI VIA MARCO MINGHETTI

VI A DEL CAR AVITA

VIA DELL'UMILTÀ

VIC

OL

O D

OR

IA

VIA

DE

L C

OR

SO

V

IA D

EL

CO

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O

VIA

DE

L C

OR

SO

V

IA D

EL

CO

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VIA

DI S

AN

TA

MA

RIA

IN V

IA

VIA

DI S

AN

TA

MA

RIA

IN V

IA

PIA

ZZ

A D

EI S

AN

TIS

SIM

I AP

OS

TO

LI

VIA DEL PLEBISCITO VIA CESARE BATTISTI

V

IA D

EL

CO

LL

EG

IO R

OM

AN

O

TIM ●X CORSI ●

FIFTY FIFTY ●

MOOD ●ROBERTO ANTICOLI ●

GARDINO ●FELLINI ●

OBJ ●

VATURI ●OTHERS ●

TIBER ●BARONE ●

CELIO ●

GUTTERIDGE ●MIRIADE ●

YAMAMAY ●

SCHEGGE ●

STEFANEL ●

● OMAI NOW OR NEVER

● ETY● OTTICA CANOVAI

● LA GARDENIA

● DOPPELGANGER● SAXON’S

● HAMMERSMITH

● OUTLET

● TATIE● TEBE● LEVIATAN● SALOMÈ● LE GROUP● PERONI

● ALCOTT● CLASS● RIENZI

GalleriaAlberto

SordiPiazza Colonna

Piazza Venezia

FL

OR

SH

EIM

●P

INK

O ●

TE

CH

IT E

AS

Y ●

TR

U T

RU

SS

AR

DI ●

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DR

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FE

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● Z

AR

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DIESEL

To mark the opening of its latest

fagship store in Rome, Diesel has

commissioned an exclusive screen-based

art piece by Andreas Nicolas Fischer.

The collaboration with the German

artist creates a visual representation

of topographical data taken from

maps of Rome. Visitors to the Diesel

store become enveloped in the work

as they step inside the atrium with its

mirrored ceiling and screen-covered

walls displaying the evolving artwork.

It seemed ftting that Rome, which

has had such an impact on art history,

should be the location of this pioneering

piece of digital art. Diesel also has a

long history of promoting and nurturing

creative talent, with special emphasis

on those independent artists that push

boundaries and look to the future.

Diesel,

Piazza Di Spagna 18, 00187 Rome,

+39 06 678 6817,

diesel.com

* for map go to page 92

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

102 | GUIDE

Piazza di San Silvestro, Via delle Convertite,

Via di San Claudio & Via del Tritone

Metro

VIA

DEL MORTARO V

IA P

OL

I

VIA

DI S

AN

TA

MA

RIA

IN V

IA

VIA

MA

RIO

DÈ

FIO

RI

VIA

DI P

RO

PA

GA

ND

A

VIA DELLA VITE

VIA

PO

LI

V

IA D

EL

L’IM

PR

ES

A

VIA DEI SAN CLAUDIO VIA DEL POZ ZETTO

VIA DI S

AN

T'A

ND

RE

A D

EL

LE

FR

AT

TE

VIA IN LUCINA

VIA DEL PARLAMENTO VIA DELLE CONVERTITE

VIA DELLA MERCEDE

VIA

DE

LL

A P

AN

ET

TE

RIA

L ARGO CHIGI VIA DEL TRITONE

VIA

DE

L C

OR

SO

V

IA D

EL

CO

RS

O

Piazza Colonna

Piazza delParlamento

Piazza diSan Silvestro

GalleriaAlberto

Sordi

Piazza diSan Claudio

● G

ER

AR

D●

+ V

IST

A●

TR

ISG

EM

ME

E●

DIA

MA

NT

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● S

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-ST

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● M

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● S

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● S

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● S

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FU

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●

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●

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NA

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RL

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● N

ER

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DIN

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● C

AR

HA

RT

T

TH

E N

OR

TH

●

FA

CE

● BEDETTI

● BRIC’S

● MEDICI

NE

W B

AL

AN

CE

●

VIA DEL TRITONE AREA

1. Ponte Sisteo

One of Trastevere’s most popular landmarks, the Ponte

Sisteo’s appeal lies in its romantic appearance and it’s a

regular backdrop for films, music videos and adverts.

2. Ponte Fabricio

The Ponte Fabricio, Rome’s oldest bridge, provides access to

Tiberina island. The two double-faced Janus heads on top of

its marble pillars symbolise the past and the future.

3. Ponte Sant’Angelo

The Ponte Sant’Angelo, almost 2,000 years old, is named for

the story that an angel appeared here to announce the end of

the plague. Formerly a route for pilgrims visiting Saint Peter’s

Basilica, it’s a popular photo stop for travellers today.

TOP 3… BRIDGES

PH

OT

O: S

EB

AS

TIE

N B

ER

TR

AN

D F

RO

M P

AR

IS

3

globalblue.com

SHOP | 103

VIA DI SAN NICOLA DA TOLENTINO

VIA

MO

LIS

E

VIA

DE

LL

A P

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104 | GUIDE

Via di Campo Marzio & Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina

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VIA DEL LEONE

VIA BORGOGNONA

VIA CONDOTTI

VIA DEI PREFETTI

VIA DELLA MERCEDE

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Piazza delParlamento

Piazza diSan Lorenzo

in Lucina

● CAMPO MARZIO● VITTORIO BAGAGLI

● SCOTIA TEMPORARY OUTLET● CAMPO MARZIO 9

● SCOTIA ● CHASMERITALY

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ALBERTO AMIDEI ● MUSA ●

BANCHETTI ●JUST DESIGN ●

NEGRI ●PAS DE ROUGE ●

CAPUA CASHMERE ●

CALZATURE CAMPO MARZIO ● GOLF & GOLF ● SUPERCASA ●

ETIQUETA NEGRA ● BECCACECE ●

GINTEL ● EMPRESA ●

MONOCLE ●

TIE SHOP ●

MODARI ●

FOR PETS ONLY ●

HERMÈS ●

DAVIDE CENCI ●

TEBRO ●

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CRUCIANI ●

BROOKS BROTHERS ● ● NIKI NIKAIOSSELLIANI R-01-IOS ●

FRANK LO ●

Antico Caffè Vitti

Café

VIA

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Piazza diSan Lorenzo in Lucina

OB

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● BONPOINT

CH

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IN ●

GIORGIO DE CHIRICO HOUSE-MUSEUM

Delve into the surreal world of Giorgio

de Chirico at the museum located in the

apartment where the artist spent the last

30 years of his life. Alongside de Chirico’s

surrealist works, visitors can admire

the apartment’s historic interior, which

juxtaposes 1950s furniture with opulent

antique pieces. There’s also an unrivalled

view of the Piazza di Spagna.

Giorgio de Chirico House-Museum,

Piazza di Spagna 31, 00187 Rome,

+39 06 679 6546,

fondazionedechirico.org

* for map go to page 92

P.44

P.48

Featured In This Issue

VIA CONDOTTI, 80

00187 ROMA

TEL: +39 06 6788944

MONDAY-SUNDAY 10 AM - 7 PM

SHOP AT TESTONI.COM

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106 | GUIDE

Via Vittorio Veneto & Via Emilia

VIA

AU

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ILIA

VIA

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VIA SICILIA

VIA LAZIO

VIA SARDEGNA

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VIA LUDOVISI

VIA LUDOVISI

VIA BONCOMPAGNI

VIA

VIT

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● ZILLI

● DE SIMONE

● CASUCCIO & SCALERA

● DE PASCALIS

● GOLD SKIN

● TRUCCHI

● ARSENIO

● CARRY ON JUNIOR

● BRIONI

ZILLI ●

CAVIGLIA ●

TARASCIO JAEGER-

LE COULTRE ●

LUISA SPAGNOLI ●

ELIZABETH ●

ZILLI ●

EXCELSIOR GALLERY ●

UBI●

GLOVES ●

VERSACE ●

GIOIELLERIA CAPUANO ●

LUCIANO PADOVAN ●

RAPHAEL ●

ANDREW'S TIES ●

RINALDI ●

ALBERTINA ●

NIMA & RAY ●HELENE PROFUMERIA ●

KUKI MELLINI ●

CASATO GIOIELLI ●

VIA VITTORIO VENETO AREA

MONTBLANC

Inspired by the free-spirited women of

today, Montblanc’s Bohème Collection

is elegant yet distinctive. Encapsulating

the company’s watchmaking expertise

in a feminine style, the Bohème has a

self-winding calibre and date or perpetual

calendar. In addition to the diamond dial,

the standout feature is the bi-coloured

leather wristband, which gives a playful

nod to this season’s colour-blocking trend.

Montblanc,

Via dei Condotti 70, 00187 Rome,

+39 06 6694 1894, montblanc.com

* for map go to page 96

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Via della Maddalena, Piazza Capranica, Via degli Orfani, Via della Minerva, Salita de’ Crescenzi & Piazza della Rotonda

VICOLODELGOVERNOVECCHIO

VIA DEL CORALLO

VIASORA

VIADELLACHIESAN

UOVA

VICOLOSAVELLI

VICOLODELLACANCELLERIA

VIADELTEATROPACE

VIADI PARIONE

VIADELG

OVERNOVECCHIO

VIADELGOVERNOVECCHIO

CORSOVITTORIOEMANUELEII

VICOLODELFICO

VIADELLAFOSSA

V IA DEI G

ABRIE

LLI

VICOLODELLEVACCHE

● K

OLBY

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IELLERIA

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ELETTREZ

● J

OSEPH

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● ALEX SHOES

● ALCHEMILLA

● VALLI

● ARSENICO

● UTILE & FUTILE

● MORGANA

● VIVIANA

● MERCURIO

● ARLETTY

● C'EST VRAI

● WOOLSNICOTRA ●

STRATEG

IC B

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VIA DEL SEMINARIO

VIA

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VIA DELLE COPPELLE

VIA DEI PASTINI

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SALITA DE’CRESCENZI VIA

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VIA DEL POZZO

PiazzaRondanini

● R

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● PANTHEON 70

PiazzaCapranica

ALESSANDRA GIANNETTI ●DEGLI EFFETTI ●

MASSIMILIANO ARPIGA ●

● EX

● CARTOLERIA DEL PANTHEON● DANI● TOTEM● TESTONI

TH

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● CAMPER

● OTTICA VERGERIO

● A. CENCI● CASALI● GIORENMENTA ● GLOVES● KLKSTEREO ● SOUND

PiazzaDella

Rotonda

● MI & CHI

BARUFFI ● STILOFETTI●

CAMPO MARZIO 70 ●

● TERRACINA

● COSIMO COLONNA

DEGLI● EFFETTI

DAVIDE CENCI JUNIOR ●

ARTE ORAFA ●

LE ARTIGIANEDI ROMA ●

PANTHEON

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Via del Governo Vecchio

Place Of Interest

PANTHEON & NAVONA AREA

ROSCIOLI

Roscioli brings together a vast selection

of Rome’s delicious food and drink under

one roof. The store’s impressive gourmet

ofering includes over 450 varieties of

cheese, top-notch Italian and French wines,

olive oil and Italian ham. Wine and food

tasting experiences are available too and

visitors can even design their own private

tasting, raiding Roscioli’s extremely well-

stocked deli and cellar.

Roscioli,

Via dei Giubbonari 21, 00186 Rome,

+39 06 687 5287, salumeriaroscioli.com

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Non-Global Blue Retailer

Via Cola di Rienzo

VIA OR AZIO

VIA EZIO

VIA TACITO

VIA ATTILIO REGOLO VIA VIRGILIO

VIA ALESSANDRO FARNESEVIA LUCREZIO CARO

VIA MARCANTONIO COLONNA VIA CICERONE

VIA

CO

LA

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NZ

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● IRON G

● VERONICA TOSCANO

● SWAROVSKI

● EMPRESA

● PLAY LIFE

● TRANCANELLI

● LA TAVOLA ELEGANTE● DOPPELGANGER ● THE BRIDGE● CLICHÈ

● GAJ ALDO

● 3● MILK● L'OCCITANE● CARLA G● SUB DUED● BRANDY & MELVILLE

● MANI DI FATA

● MAGAZINE

● GEOX

● NIKE

● LIST

CELLUPRICA ●

PULL STOP ●

PENNY BOUTIQUE ●

GIORGIO RUBEN ●

DIEGO CATALDI ●DOUBLE AGENT ●

MANILA GRACE ●VANS ●

INTIMISSIMI ●ARMONY ●TIE SHOP ●

BALLIN ●CENTODIECI ●

CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ●

TRU TRUSSARDI ●FALCONERI ●

KIKO ●DANIELLE ●

COIN EXCELSIOR ●

MERCEDES BENZ ●

DESIGN OPTICAL ●

MAESANO ●

OTTICA TAGLIAFERRI ●

VIA SILL A

VIA FABIO MASSIMOVIA TERE NZIO

VIA PAOLO E MILIO VIA OVIDIO

VIA PROPERZIO

VIA

CO

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NZ

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● YAMAMAY

● DI NEPI

● RAFI RUBEN● 7 CAMICIE● ESOTICA● BRIAN CRESS● PAUL TAYLOR● OPTISSIMO● ABITART● PROFUMERIA BERTOZZINI ● CASTRONI

● CASAGRANDE● ROSAKI

● EREDI PISANÒ

● BEVERLY HILLS● OTTICA CHIESA● FURLA

● LOVABLE● THE BODY SHOP● ACCESSORIZE

● HALFON● MAMILLA● GENTE OUTLET● NAU !● RAGGI● LIU JO● PAUL BIANCO● BOGGI

● DESIGUAL

● FELLINI

● PULL LOVE

● RAGGI

● STUDIO LA PERLA

● DICKINSON

TIFFANY ●

GOLDEN POINT ● DAVID MAYER NAMAN ●

TIM ●LUIS SPAGNOLI ●

CHOPIN●

BENETTON ●DANY BABY ●

STEFENAL ●

ZARA HOME ●DAVID SADDLER ●

MISS SIXTY ●SABON ●

TWIN-SET ●FRANCESCHINI ●

COCCINELLE ● NUVOLARI ●

FABIO DE MARCO ●

TOMMY HILFIGER ●LIZA ●

FAMAR ●TRIUMPH ●

TOWER ●

WEEKEND MAX MARA ●

ANN GIGLI ●ANGELO DI NEPI ●

ASOLE E BOTTONI ●MAX MARA ●

GENTE ●FELLINI ●

COLLAGE ●TIMBERLAND ●

GUESS ●NARA CAMICIE ●

CHLO ●SISLEY ●

PETIT BATEAU ●

ORIGINAL MARINES ●

VIA COLA DI RIENZO AREA

TRENTA 7

Trenta 7’s latest collection of shoes for

summer proves that footwear can be

both fun and functional. The spring/

summer 2015 collection fnds inspiration in

Polynesian culture, evoking the vibrancy of

tribal dances and rituals as well as the beauty

of the natural landscape. Rafa and jute are

combined with exquisite leather, resulting

in unexpected elegance, while multicolour

tassels add a playful touch.

Mon Reve,

Piazzale del Parco della Rimembranza 10,

00197 Rome,

+39 06 6401 4664, trenta7.com

112 | GUIDE

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‘It’s hard to defne my favourite area, as I’m lucky enough to live in one of the most beautiful cities in the world: Rome. But if I had to choose, I’d have to say Monti – the whole of Esquilino, really. I love it because it has this fresh attitude and yet a conservative feeling at the same time. There are old junk shops, vintage boutiques and a bunch of diferent international groceries. The headquarters of my brand is on Via Giovanni Lanza.

‘My favourite bar has to be Bar

D’Amore for its super-relaxed atmosphere. For food, I adore Ristorante La Campana

on Vicolo della Campana. It’s the oldest restaurant in the capital and its location – just a stone’s throw away from the Pantheon – makes it the ideal place to soak in the atmosphere after sightseeing.

‘When friends from out of town are visiting, I fnd the simplest way to win them over is to take a walk. I always tell them to

MY NEIGHBOURHOOD: FABIO QUARANTA

Fashion designer Fabio Quaranta is known for his modern take on tailoring. In 2010, he won the Who Is On Next? Uomo award in the prêt-à-porter category, and he was also selected for a New Performer prize at Pitti Uomo 79 in 2011. Born in Rome, he still lives and works in the Eternal City – here he shares his favourite haunts with Theresa Harold

fabioquaranta.it

Above (clockwise from lef): the interior of Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere, one of the oldest churches in Rome; Orto Botanico

gardens; Porta Portese market; Sacripante Art Gallery; Villa Borghese grounds

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leave the map at home and try to let the city inspire and guide you. The best way to get around is by bicycle or on foot – that way you can lose yourself. Try heading towards the historical centre, arriving at Trastevere, south of Vatican City. Go into some of the minor churches that you didn’t know existed – there is always a church you didn’t know about.

‘Then, I might take them to my favourite view in Rome: standing on the

steps of the Pincian hill, overlooking Villa Borghese. I recently discovered the Casa delle Armi building, which is an architectural masterpiece by Luigi Moretti. For drinks we might head to the cocktail bar at the Sacripante Art Gallery on Via Panisperna.

‘On my days of, I take my daughter to the park, maybe the Orto Botanico di Roma, or a fea market. Sometimes, we’ll just stay at home and relax!’

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TRANSLATIONS

116

РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД

52: Sustainable Style

В Гармонии С Природой

Итальянская индустрия моды делает все больше шагов в сторону эко-мышления: от сотрудничества с Гринпис до внедрения эко-технологий, – рассказывает Салли МакИлхон

В последние годы международная индустрия моды все чаще обращается к экологически безвредным технологиям и натуральным тканям. Многие поклонники моды перестали бездумно набивать шкафы сотнями вещей, которые придется выкинуть после одной-двух носок. Вместо этого предпочтение получили качественные классические коллекции, созданные с применением современных эко-технологий. Экологическая ответственность

была признана одной из важнейших проблем, как для итальянской пищевой промышленности, так и для индустрии моды, а также стала одной из главных тем всемирной выставки Expo Milano 2015, которая пройдет с мая по октябрь.

Учитывая темпы ежегодного прироста населения, внедрение эко-технологий в индустрию питания становится делом первостепенной важности. Итальянская сеть быстрого питания Eataly уже начала прямое сотрудничество с фермерами, а также производителями сыра и мяса в попытке минимизировать воздействие на окружающую среду и обеспечить беспрерывную поставку экологически-чистой продукции. Eataly – одна из многих итальянских компаний, осознавших свою ответственность перед природой. Итальянская индустрия моды решила не отставать, поэтому все чаще внимание уделяется эко-технологиям, инициативам

McArthurGlen.it/CastelRomano

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118

Гринпис и капсульным эко-коллекциям.На Миланской Неделе моды осень-

зима 2014 Министерство окружающей среды Италии представило свою программу развития модной индустрии в экологическом ключе. Так, учреждение проводит совместную кампанию с организацией Connect4Climate, направленную на снижение углеродных выбросов и потребления воды. К инициативе привлечено уже более 200 компаний, внедривших программы по контролю уровня углерода и минимизации его применения при технологических процессах производства одежды.

«Итальянская мода стремится объединить в себе два важных фактора – качество продукции и ее приемлемость с точки зрения экологии, – говорит Коррадо Клини, бывший министр окружающей среды. – Это подразумевает не только имплементацию новых стратегий и производственных процессов, но и, что, возможно, более важно – поиск более современных материалов и инновационных

решений, которые будут способствовать улучшению конкурентоспособности национальной индустрии моды и консолидации ее международного опыта».

В последние годы ряд итальянских брендов уже успел продемонстрировать свою приверженность новой стратегии сочетания качества и экологичности. Так в 2011 году, Альберта Ферретти в союзе с британской актрисой Эммой Уотсон выпустила капсульную эко-коллекцию «Pure Treads». В мае 2012 Gucci запустил линию эко-обуви Sustainable Soles, а Diesel создал совместную с Edun коллекцию джинсовой одежды для сезона весна-лето 2013. Марка Edun, основанная Боно и его супругой Али Хьюсон, также стремится изменить ситуацию в лучшую сторону, налаживая сотрудничество с африканскими компаниями.

Кроме того, ряд брендов, включая Valentino и Benetton, присоединились к программе Greenpeace Detox, призванной снизить выброс вредных веществ в водные источники. Для Италии этот вопрос

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особенно актуален, если учесть количество существующих в стране брендов одежды и фабрик, поставляющих для них материалы. Miroglio Group – как раз одна из подобных фабрик, снабжающих тканями такие марки, как Motivi и Elena Mirò.

«В последнее время Miroglio Group осуществила ряд важных инвестиций в свои заводы Miroglio Textile в Говоне и Альбе, сделав ставку на технологиях нового поколения, отвечающих всем современным стандартам безопасности окружающей среды, – говорит глава корпорации Джузеппе Мироглио. – Это привело к тому, что компания существенно сократила потребление воды и электроэнергии, а также выбросов СО2 в атмосферу. Таким образом, процесс запущен и в дальнейшем мы планируем строго придерживаться выбранного нами пути».

За последние пять лет на международной итальянской выставке тканей Milano Unica было уделено особое внимание производителям эко-текстиля. Итальянская фабрика Canepa одно из тех предприятий, где внедрен инновационный процесс отделки материалов. «Этот процесс основан на использовании биополимеров “kitosan”, созданных с помощью переработанных панцирей креветок, – поясняет Альфонсо Сэбен Канепа, отвечающий за модернизацию производства. – Его можно считать экологичным, поскольку для его реализации затраты энергии и воды снижаются на 40%».

Аурора Магни, консультант Milano Unica, отмечает, что на итальянские и европейские заводы распространяются строгие требования в отношении защиты окружающей среды. «Однако этого не вполне достаточно, – считает Магни. – Некоторые производители одежды и ритейлеры все чаще начинают требовать от поставщиков конкретных гарантий, что определенные химические компоненты не были задействованы в технологическом процессе».

Кампания Greenpeace Detox призывает мировые бренды одежды быть более ответственными в отношении окружающей

среды и вести сотрудничество с поставщиками, которые придерживаются высоких экологических стандартов. Milano Unica как раз помогает компаниям в поиске таких поставщиков. «Мы составили весьма ценный каталог производителей текстиля с указанием основных преимуществ той или иной компании в сфере экологической ответственности, – говорит Массимо Мосиелло, генеральный директор Milano Unica. – Для того чтобы поставщик мог попасть в наш каталог, он должен предоставь всю необходимую информацию и данные о производстве. Наша главная цель

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своей необычностью и новизной, подчеркнутой фирменным цветом бренда – ярко желтым. Пять дочерей супругов Фенди также вскоре начали участвовать в семейном бизнесе, помогая лейблу расти и превратив его в известный модный дом, наняв Карла Лагерфельда, который до сих пор является креативным директором Fendi, в 1960-х.

Технологии и приемы, используемые в Fendi, настолько прогрессивны, что зачастую сложно понять, как столь сложная и деликатная по своей конструкции одежда держится вместе. На наряде Кары Делевинь были тонкие вставки, через которые было видно нижний слой тюли, напоминающий латы. Показанные платья из слоев голубых или розовых перьев были обтянуты плетеным ремнем из лакированной кожи на талии для создания иллюзии гибкой «клетки». В других образах на кожаных безрукавках красовались нарисованные вручную принты, вдохновленные метафизическими картинами Джорджо де Кирико. Fendi, которым теперь в основном владеет LVMH, занимает особое место в мире современной роскоши. Модный дом, которому в 2015 году исполняется 90 лет, недавно переехал в восстановленный Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana. Это впечатляющее здание 1940-х, чей фасад состоит из расположенных друг над другом арок, является венцом архитектуры. Теперь оно вмещает студии дизайна, офисы, архивы и коллектив в 400 человек. Оно будет служить архивным залом для демонстрации истории дизайна и многих культовых вещей Fendi, которые разрабатывались и собирались поколениями.

Сумка Baguette – одна из таких вещей, модель, которая повлекла за собой моду на «It» сумки в 1997 году. «Меня попросили создать, помимо всего прочего, совершенно простую и функциональную сумку. В определенном смысле она должна была быть технологичной и минимальной, как и все в те времена, - говорит Сильвия Вентурини Фенди, креативный директор аксессуаров и внучка Адель Фенди, - Моим ответом, к счастью, я очень непослушна, стала Baguette – полная противоположность

64: In Focus: Fendi

В Фокусе: Fendi

Модный дом с ярким характером Fendi объединяет традиционное мастерство с современными инновациями, утверждает Харриет Квик

Экзотическая флора и фауна ассоциировались с классической женственностью с тех самых пор, как женщины были впервые изображены в искусстве. Fendi ловко обыграли эту метафору в своей весенне-летней коллекции 2015. Кара Делевинь открыла показ в трапециевидном платье, покрытом рисунком из голубых, розовых и белых орхидей, а ее волосы были собраны в хвост с помощью длинного кожаного листка, который напоминал племенной талисман. В руках у нее была миниатюрная версия сумки бестселлера Fendi Peekaboo.

Как и у многих элитных модных домов, истоки Fendi восходят к созданию чемоданов и седел. Первый магазин, небольшое ателье, супруги Адель и Эдоардо Фенди открыли в Риме в 1925 году. Это было время великих художественных открытий и архитектурных экспериментов, компания славилась своим высококлассным мастерством, передовым дизайном и искусно изготовленными кожаными изделиями, которые очаровывали

заключается в том, чтобы клиент получил реальную и надежную информацию о составе ткани и способе ее изготовления».

Экологическая ответственность, несомненно, доставляет брендам немало хлопот, но в тоже время полностью себя оправдывает. Ведь теперь клиенты, пришедшие в один из роскошных бутиков Рима, могут быть абсолютно уверены, что все представленные вещи сделаны с заботой о природе. «Много компаний уже осознало преимущество экологической и этической ответственности, – заключает Магни. – В какой-то степени для предприятия это может быть нелегко, однако благодарность и признательность покупателей заставляют идти на риск».

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тому, что от меня требовали. Успех был невообразимым, она стала одним из самых желанных предметов в мире». С помощью инновационного приложения My Baguette вы теперь можете выбирать детали и цвета на свой вкус.

Линия Selleria, запущенная в 1938, характеризуется контрастной строчкой на мягкой, шероховатой романской коже, а очаровательные сумки Fendi Bag Bugs, выполненные из кожи и меха, напоминают небольших зверьков и мультяшек. Bag Bugs достигли культового статуса и теперь красуются в руках таких икон стиля, как редактор японского Vogue Анна Делло Руссо и Соланж Ноулз, которые носят и берегут их как домашних животных. «Вдохновение пришло ко мне, когда я ездила в Бразилию

и увидела там тропических птиц с яркими перьями и хохолками», - говорит Вентурини Фенди.

Ряд изделий Fendi также включает в себя мебель ручной работы, парфюмерию – их бестселлером стал аромат Fan di Fendi – часы и знаменитые очки. Креативность явно является семейной чертой: Дельфина Делеттрез, дочь Сильвии Вентурини Фенди, имеет собственный одноименный бренд смелой сюрреалистичной ювелирной продукции.

àто Fendi имеет в изобилии, так это характер и чувство юмора, редкое качество в серьезном мире роскоши. Присоединяйтесь к фан-клубу Fendi, и улыбка не будет сходить с вашего лица. fendi.com

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72: Forever Cool

Вечно Стильные

Небрежная элегантность, пронизывающая французскую киноленту 1960 года «На ярком солнце», по сей день оказывает влияние на итальянское чувство стиля, – говорит Джош Симс

Французский триллер «На ярком солнце», в котором смешалась мода и обман, считается одним из самых стильных фильмов 1960-х годов. Действие происходит посреди итальянской Ривьеры, где живет миллионер Филипп Гринлиф. Он даже не подозревает о том, на что готов пойти нищий аферист Том Рипли, чтоб сделать его жизнь своей. Фильм насыщен пронзительной эстетикой; живописные итальянские пейзажи, роскошные яхты, уютные кафе и шикарные апартаменты сочетаются с великолепными нарядами главных героев. Именно благодаря безупречной одежде актеров фильм получил звание самого стильного, и даже спустя 55 лет после премьеры можно ощутить его влияние на современную итальянскую моду.

Сцены, снятые на яхте демонстрируют зрителям майки-поло и рубашки с коротким рукавом и цветочным принтом, а также льняные рубашки, заправленные и застегнутые лишь на половину, ведь никому до этого не было дела. Грязно-белые джинсы с замшевыми мокасинами и закатанные к верху брюки цвета хаки с сандалиями на веревочной подошве стали воплощением прибрежного шика, в то время как шелковые костюмы в приглушенных тонах серого, кремового и голубого использовались для съемок в центре Рима. Костюмы темных оттенков в паре с белыми мокасинами и отсутствием носков смутили бы любого эксперта по модному этикету. Полосатый блейзер, рубашки с монограммами и репсовые галстуки дополняют роскошный стиль Гринлифа.Одна из сцен, где Ален Делон, играющий полу-модель полу-маньяка Рипли, бродит по уличному рынку, могла бы запросто быть снята на каком-нибудь подиуме. Делон поражает воображение одним лишь своим

образом: рубаха с закатанными рукавами и щегольской пиджак, небрежно свисающий с плеча. Зачастую стиль берет верх над содержанием; вместо ожидаемой сцены ареста в финале фильма зрители наблюдают за тем, как Рипли, облеченный в стильные брюки и кардиган свободного покроя, томно прогуливается по песчаному пляжу.

Одним из ключевых достоинств

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фильма являются созданные дизайнерами образы. Вещи перестают здесь быть просто одеждой, но становятся костюмами, помогающими героям коренным образом менять свою личность. В одной из сцен, к примеру, Гринлиф застает Рипли за примеркой своего гардероба, повлекшей череду роковых событий. Несмотря на то, что одежда служила в фильме элементом искусного трюка, многие критики из таких изданий, как GQ, Studio Canal и H&M Life считают, что созданные образы привели к возникновению совершенно нового стиля.

И даже полвека спустя этот стиль не утратил своей актуальности. «Существует целое поколение тех, кто предпочитает одеваться на роскошный манер, поданный в фильме, тех, кто предпочитает всегда выглядеть безупречно, даже когда под рукой лишь повседневные вещи», – считает британский портной и дизайнер Тимоти Эверест, работавший над созданием костюмов для ремейка фильма 1999 года «Талантливый мистер Рипли». «Это стиль плейбоя: классический, но вместе с тем в меру небрежный и непринужденный, как бы дающий понять, что владельца не заботит его внешний вид, в то время как все как раз наоборот».

Этот образ является, по сути, квинтэссенцией стиля состоятельных, вечно загорелых молодых людей из 1960-х годов, тех, чьи доходы не счесть, чье время прожигается в бесконечном поиске удовольствий, тех, для кого мир лишь большая площадка для игры. Современная итальянская мода часто ссылается на этот беззаботный стиль, упуская громкие узоры и дополняя его роскошными тканями. Также можно заметить, что в одежде, которую носили Рипли и Гринлиф, нашли отражение элементы итальянской природы. Оттенки размытого белого сочетаются со старинными деревянными конструкциями причалов или плитами древних архитектурных сооружений, оттенки голубого – с волнистым Средиземным морем, а оттенки бледно-розового находят отражение в брезентовых парусах яхты Гринлифа.

Хотя Делон не подбирал себе одежду для съемок «На ярком солнце» – за него это делала костюмер Белла Клемент – стиль беззаботный шик стал для актера неотъемлемым образом жизни: в 1978 году он запустил успешную серию парфюма, а впоследствии – линию одежды и аксессуаров. И все же фильм, обеспечивший ему всемирную славу, придает одежде более глубокий смысл: во-первых, чтобы проиллюстрировать классовое различие героев, уровень образованности и стиль их жизни, а во-вторых, чтобы показать миру, как с помощью одной лишь одежды можно до неузнаваемости преобразить человека. Когда Гринлиф предостерегает Рипли: «Нет, ты не можешь подниматься на борт [моей яхты] в этой обуви», то не совсем ясно, имеется ли ввиду их пригодность для ходьбы по палубе или где-либо вообще. Этот вопрос навсегда останется без ответа. С тех самых пор он не дает покоя многим стилягам.

114: When you shop the world, shop

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52: Sustainable Style

可持续的时尚

美文翻译

无论是报名参加绿色和平组织项目，还是与可持续

的面料生产商合作，意大利时尚行业的生态友好度

正在不断提升。Sally McIlhone报道

近些年来，国际时尚行业开始越来越多地接受环保

的工艺、面料和态度。如今，时尚鉴赏家的目标不是

去拥有一个装满了一次性衣物的大衣橱，而是一个

运用可持续的方法精心构造的产品系列，系列中的

产品可以拥有永恒的价值。可持续性的问题已经成

为了意大利食品与时尚产业的关键问题。这个问题

是如此之重要，以至于它成为了2015年米兰世博会

（ 五月至十月之间举办）的主题之一。

随着世界人口一年年的增加，制定可持续的食

品生产方法成为了一个至关重要的问题。意大利美

食连锁店Eataly与意大利的农民、奶酪生产商和肉

商合作，确保自己库存里拥有最好的原料，并尽小地

减少对环境的影响。Eataly仅仅只是寻求更具可持

续性方法的意大利食品公司之一。意大利的时尚产

业也紧随其后，支持可持续生产方法，致力于绿色和

平组织的倡议，并推出了生态环保的服饰系列。

意大利环境部在2014秋冬季米兰时装周上展

示了一个项目，突出了时尚产业的生态步伐。环境部

与Connect4Climate合作，目的在于通过确认碳管

理实践方法并支持服装生产中的低碳技术，以减少

200多家企业的碳排放量和水资源消耗。

“意大利的时尚体系致力于将产品的质量与对

可持续性问题的深切关注相结合，”环境部总干事

Corrado Clini说，“这意味着不仅仅只是采用对环

境影响最小的战略和生产工艺，也许更重要的是寻

找新的材料和创造性的解决方法，以提升我们整

个时尚行业的竞争力，巩固我们在国际上的卓越地

位。”

近些年来，许多意大利时尚品牌已经兑现他

Контакты:taxfree@globalblue.com+421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €159.94 и сэкономьте до 15.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.

们对质量与可持续发展相结合的承诺。Alberta

Ferretti与英国女演员Emma Watson合作，在

2011年推出了一个环保五件套套装系列，并将其

命名为Pure Threads（纯粹织物）。Gucci在2012

年5月推出了自己的环保鞋履系列Sustainable

Soles。Diesel与Edun合作推出一个2013年春夏季

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牛仔系列。Edun品牌由摇滚明星Bono和他的妻子

Ali Hewson共同创立，希望通过与非洲的贸易关

系带来积极的改变。

除此以外，包括Valentino和Benetton在内的

诸多品牌报名参加了绿色和平组织的Detox运动，

该运动要求精英服装品牌致力于消除排放到世界

供水中的有毒化学物质。从意大利最著名的设计师

和街头品牌到提供原料的面料生产商，无不参与到

这项承诺运动中。Miroglio 集团为Motivi和Elena

Mirò等品牌生产原料，也致力于可持续发展。

“最近几年，Miroglio集团在下一代印刷技术方

面进行了重要投资，以确保设立在Govone和Alba

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Fendi最畅销的Peekaboo手袋的迷你版。

与诸多奢侈时装品牌类似，Fendi亦以行李箱

与马鞍起家。品牌的首家门店是一间由Adele与

Edoardo Fendi夫妇1925年在罗马成立的小工作

室。这是一个属于伟大艺术探索和建筑实验性创新

的时代，公司以艺匠级手工艺与意识超前的设计为

傲，精美绝伦的手工皮具以其奔放热情与杰出创意

迷倒众生，这一切都以品牌的标志色——亮眼黄色

为标记。创始人夫妇的五个女儿其后也加入了这份

事业，并帮助品牌成为颇具影响力的时尚业巨擎，品

牌从1960年代起就开始聘用Karl Lagerfeld，他至

今仍是Fendi的创意总监。

Fendi所使用的技法与手工艺非常先进，人们

很难看清这些结构如此复杂巧妙的成衣是如何制作

而成的。Cara Delevingne所穿的裙装带有细长切

割，隐约露出底层的薄纱，营造出名副其实的“铠甲”

效果。新款系列中还包括派对礼服裙，腰部装饰有

层叠天蓝或糖粉色羽毛，并以编织腰带收紧固定，以

漆皮面料在四肢部分打造出可伸展“笼子”效果。除

此之外，还有受Giorgio de Chirico的抽象主义绘

画启发设计的手绘图案皮背心。

现由LVMH集团控股持有的Fendi，在当代奢

64: In Focus: Fendi

聚焦：芬迪Fendi

作为个性独具的时尚品牌，Fendi将艺匠级手工与摩

登创新完美融合，Harriet Quick报道

自从女性第一次出现在艺术作品中，异国情调的动

植物就被与女性气质紧密联系。Fendi在2015年春

夏系列中再现了这一主题。超模Cara Delevingne

以一袭印满蓝色、粉色与白色兰花图案的A字裙领

衔开场，她的秀发被皮质长树叶挽起，树叶俏皮地

拍打在她肩膀上，像某个部落的护身符。她还身背

侈品界占有举足轻重的地位。品牌在2015年迎来90

周年华诞，并于近日迁入了新翻修完成的地标性建

筑——意大利文化宫。这座夺人眼球的1940年代建

筑，四面由叠拱外墙环绕而成，可谓是建筑的胜利，

其中容纳着品牌的设计工作室、办公室、档案馆与

400人规模的团队。这里将汇聚Fendi的设计历史档

案，并陈列品牌多年来推出的标志性设计。

Baguette手袋就是其中一件杰出设计，这件单

品在1997年刚推出就被称为 “It”（话题）手袋。“人们

希望我设计出特别容易使用与功能性强大的包袋。

的Miroglio纺织工厂环境的可持续性，”集团主席

Giuseppe Miroglio说，“这带来了水资源和能源消

耗以及二氧化碳排放的显著减少。因此，我们已经

开始这个环保过程，并计划以一种严肃负责的态度

继续追求这样的理念。”

米兰总联合会（Milano Unica），也就是意大

利的国际纺织品博览会，在近五年里越来越关注可

持续纺织企业所展示的面料。Canepa是其中的一

家生产商，它运用了纺织整理的创新工艺。“这个工

艺基于一种被称为kitosan的生物聚合物，是回收

利用虾壳的结果。”该品牌可持续发展项目的负责人

Alfonso Saibene Canepa解释道，“得益于这种物

质，该工艺是具有可持续性的，因为消耗的能源和水

比传统的纺织工艺要少40%。”

米兰总联合会顾问Aurora Magni指出，意大

利和欧洲的工厂都要遵循关于环境责任的严格规

定。“然而，尽管这样做很重要，也已经不能满足要求

了，”Magni说。“时尚品牌和零售商对供应商的要求

越来越高，要求他们特别保证在生产过程中完全避

免使用某些化学成分。”

绿色和平组织的Detox运动要让时尚品牌承担

责任，确保他们与最环保的生产商合作，符合各类

可持续标准。米兰总联合会帮助品牌与这些有道德

意识的供应商联系。“我们选择了备受赞赏的技术目

录，作为强调纺织与配件工厂环保设施的工具。”米

兰总联合会总经理Massimo Mosiello说，“为了被

列在这个目录里，公司必须提供真实的信息和文件。

我们的目标是向客户保证，任何关于面料和配件的

信息是真实的、值得信任的，这样识别起来就会更

加容易。”

尽管对可持续性发展的承诺为品牌带来了额外

压力，但它肯定是值得的，因为这意味着罗马著名精

品店里的新衣服是在保护地球而不是伤害它。“许多

公司已经明白有道德感和有责任感的名声所带来的

竞争优势，”Magni总结道。“作为一家有道德感的公

司远非是一件容易的事情，但是市场愿意认可这样

的努力，并给予回报。”

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在一定意义上，它又要有技术含量又要极为轻便，

要符合当时的社会节奏，”Adele Fendi的孙女，品

牌的配饰创意总监Silvia Venturini Fendi表示。“

我的回答——很幸运我非常固执不听劝——就是

Baguette：恰巧是人们所要求的对立面。这款包袋

获得了空前的成功；它成为了全球最炙手可热的单品

之一。”使用突破性的My Baguette手机应用，你甚

至可以个性化定制自己想要的装饰与颜色。

诞生于1938年的Selleria系列，在柔软、纹理

丰富的Romano皮革上运用醒目的针角组成图案，

而Fendi可爱的Bag Bugs以毛皮与皮革塑造不同

的小动物与卡通人物形象，其中有一款就是以Karl

Lagerfeld自己为原型。Bag Bugs在时尚界已拥有

让众人膜拜的地位，并为各界潮流先锋人士所拥有，

从Vogue日本版的Anna Dello Russo到Solange

Knowles，她们都把这些娃娃包当宠物一样珍爱，随

身携带。“我在某次去巴西的旅行中看到了令人惊艳

的热带鸟儿，每只都有着色彩缤纷的羽毛与容貌，于

是灵感就来了，” Venturini Fendi告诉我们。

Fendi的时尚王国还包括手工制家具、香水——

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114: When you shop the world,

shop tax free

畅购全球，尊享退税

当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时，

环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free

Shopping）为您节约购物开销。

每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global

Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只

是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联

（Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税

过程：

72: Forever Cool

永远前卫

弥漫着艺术般优雅的1960年代电影《阳光普照》

（Plein Soleil），至今仍深深影响着意大利的时尚

风格。Josh Sims报道

以时尚与欺骗为主题的法国惊悚片《阳光普照》

（Plein Soleil），被认为是60年代最具时尚感的

影片之一。主要剧情是在风景迷人的意大利里维埃

拉，贫穷的主人公Tom Ripley结识了富裕的朋友

Philippe Greenleaf，并意图窃取他的身份。该片

以其风格强烈的美学；如画的意大利风光；豪华游

艇、广场咖啡店和单身公寓，以及片中毫无争议的明

星，Ripley与Greenleaf的衣橱而著名。正是片中明

星的衣着让其成为史上最时尚的电影之一，在该片

诞生55周年之际，它对于今日意大利时尚风格的影

响力仍卓著非凡。

该片的游艇场景仿佛是马球衫和花卉短袖衬衫

的秀场，宽松的亚麻衬衫下摆一半塞进裤腰间，纽

扣总是至少敞开到胸部中央，潇洒倜傥。老实讲，人

们也不想让他们的衣领合起。灰白色牛仔裤搭配麂

皮乐福便鞋，卷起的卡其裤则配以帆布鞋演绎海滩

时尚，灰色、浅奶油与蓝色调的山东绸西装则为片中

的罗马场景增色不少。深色西服与白色便鞋搭配的

方式或许会让时尚礼仪专家脸红，而袜子则从未出

现过。还有条纹划船夹克，一系列字母图案衬衣与领

带共同打造出主人公Greenleaf的上流精英风格。

在一幕冗长的镜头中，Ripley流连于街头市场，

这一幕就像是直接从T台上照搬而来的一样，阿兰

德龙扮演的Ripley看上去既像男模特，又像一个疯

子。德龙甚至完美演绎了一个有些泛滥的造型，就是

将衬衫袖子卷起，并将外套搭在肩膀上。风格往往

会超越物质；影片最后的镜头不是预料中的逮捕场

景，而是Ripley身着裤装与棒针羊毛衫，在海滩漫

步的样子。

这部影片中隐藏的主题之一，是服装也可被用

作是道具，而非只是演员造型中的一部分；剧中角

色也会穿上不同的服装来扮演他人。例如在一幕

中，Greenleaf发现Ripley正在试穿自己的衣服，这

为之后的事件形成铺垫。即便如此，该片不但以高超

技巧进行服装搭配，还被来自GQ、Studio Canal

其中最畅销的是Fan di Fendi——此外还有腕表

与个性独具的太阳眼镜。艺匠手工显然在家族中

得以传承：Silvia Venturini Fendi的女儿Delfna

Delettrez也拥有自己大胆、超现实风格的珠宝线。

让Fendi脱颖而出的是突出的个性与幽默

感——在严肃的奢侈品世界中相当罕见的品质。步

入Fendi的世界，你必定会微笑着满意而归。

与H&M Life等媒体的评论员纷纷引用，作为一整

套装扮风格的基础。

这种风格延续了半个世纪以上的时间。“又有新

一代人开始以一种更为张扬奢华的方式模仿这种风

格，让自己即便衣着休闲也看上去精气神十足，”英

国裁缝与设计师Timothy Everest表示，他负责打

造1999年重拍电影《天才雷普利》（The Talented

Mr Ripley）的戏服。“这就是花花公子风格：经典但

以休闲随意的方式穿着，暗示自己资本充裕并且自信

十足，给人无需多关注衣着的感觉，实际上倾注了大

量精力塑造自己。”

这种造型基本就是对1960年代早期富裕、热爱

日光浴的阶层所钟爱风格的提炼，他们拥有源源不

断的金钱与闲暇时间，可以将地球视为一个游乐场。

当代意大利时尚经常参考这种艺术化的休闲风格，

避免使用嘈杂的图案，运用奢华面料但将其打造成

精心设计的懒散样子。Ripley与Greenleaf的服装

同样暗合了意大利的自然环境。水洗白色调用来与

码头上的旧木或是古建筑上的石雕对比，蓝色系用

于衬托地中海，淡粉色调则与Greenleaf游艇上的

帆布与风帆呼应。

尽管电影《阳光普照》中的阿兰德龙并没有为

自己装扮——这是服装设计师Bella Clément的功

劳——看似毫不费力的时髦感成为这位演员终身仰

仗的法宝：在1978年，他成功推出了一款香水，紧接

着是服装及配饰系列。即便如此，这部他赖以成名

的电影在服装使用上更具深层含义：解码性格——

彰显阶级、教育与生活方式上的差异——并且暗示

在简单变装之后，这些差异对于整个世界而言是可

以转化的。当Greenleaf告诫Ripley说，“不，你不能

穿这双鞋登上[我的游艇]，”我们不确信是否因为这

双鞋不适合在甲板上行走，还是不适合在任何地方

穿着。这个问题从未得到解答，直到现在，时尚追随

者们仍在考虑这个问题。

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日本語翻訳

52: Sustainable Style

持続可能なスタイル

グリーンピースのイニシアチブに参加したり、持続可

能なファブリック生産者と協働したり、イタリアのフ

ァッション業界はますますエコ・フレンドリーになっ

てきている。サリー・マキルホーンがレポートする。

1. 消费购物

无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格

（Global Blue Tax Free Form）。

2. 申请退税

当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台

请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联

退税点领取您的退税款。

联系方式：

taxfree@globalblue.com

+421 232 111 111

最低消费€159.94并且节约高达购买价格15.5%的金

额。请注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣

除管理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位

收取现金退税手续费。

近年、国際ファッション業界では、エコ・フレンドリ

ーな生産工程、ファブリック、姿勢を一層熱心に追

求するようになっている。現代のファッション通が目

指すのは、使い捨ての衣服を満載した膨大なワード

ローブではなく、むしろ持続可能性に配慮した手法

で作った仕立てが良く時代を超越した衣服で上手に

構成されたワードローブを持つことだ。持続可能性

は、イタリアの食品産業とファッション産業が共に認

識しており、5月から10月にかけて開催される2015年

ミラノ国際博覧会のメインテーマの一つになっている

くらいだ。

世界的評判が年々高まる中、持続可能な食

品生産手法を確立することが極めて重要になっ

ている。イタリアン・デリのチェーン、イータリー

（Eataly）では、この国の農家やチーズ生産者、食

肉生産者と協力してできる限り上質な食材を揃える

と共に、環境への影響を極力抑える努力をしてい

る。イータリーは、持続可能性を追求するイタリアの

多くの食品会社のほんの一例に過ぎない。イタリア

のファッション産業も食品産業の例に倣い、持続可

能な生産手法を支持し、グリーンピースのイニシアチ

ブに取り組み、エコ・フレンドリーなカプセルコレクシ

ョンを発売している。

ミラノ・ファッションウィークの2014年秋冬コレ

クションでは、イタリアの環境省がファッション産業

のエコ・フットプリントを強調するプログラムを提供

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した。同省はConnect4Climateと共同で、衣料品生

産における炭素排出管理の慣行を明らかにし、低炭

素技術を支援することにより、200社以上の炭素排

出と廃水を削減することを目指している。

「イタリアファッション全体で、製品の品質と持

続可能性への深い関心を組み合わせていく決意で

す」と、コラド・クリーニ環境相は話す。「これは、環

境への影響を最小限に抑えた戦略や生産プロセス

を採用するだけに留まりません。おそらくそれより重

要なのは、イタリアのファッション業界の競争力を高

め、国際的優位を確立するための新素材や革新的な

ソリューションの追求でもあるということです。」

このところ、イタリアのファッションレーベルの

多くが品質と持続可能性の融合に取り組んできて

いる。アルベルタ・フェレッティは2011年に、英国人

女優のエマ・ワトソンと組んで、5つのアイテムから

成るカプセルコレクション「ピュア・スレッド」を製作

した。グッチでは2012年5月に「サステナブル・ソー

ル」というフットウェアのレンジを発売。ディーゼルは

2013年春夏のデニムコレクションを、イードゥンとの

コラボレーションで製作した。ボノと妻のアリ・ヒュ

ーソンが創設したレーベル「イードゥン」は、アフリカ

との貿易関係を通して正の変革を実現することを目

標にしている。

さらに、ヴァレンティノやベネトンなどのブランド

がグリーンピースの「デトックス・キャンペーン」に参

加している。同キャンペーンでは、衣料品のトップレ

ーベルに世界の水源に有害化学物質を排出しない

よう呼びかけている。イタリアの取り組みは大物デ

ザイナーやハイストリートブランドに限らず、それらに

素材を提供するファブリックメーカーにも広がってい

る。モティヴィやエレナ・ミロにファブリックを提供す

るミログリオ・グループは、持続可能性の追求を約

束している。

「ミログリオ・グループは近年、ゴヴォーネとア

ルバにあるミログリオのテキスタイル工場で環境面の

持続可能性を確保するために、次世代プリント技術

に重要な投資を行ってきました」と、同グループのジ

ュゼッペ・ミログリオ会長はいう。「そうした投資の

おかげで、水とエネルギーの消費量と二酸化炭素排

出量が大幅に減りました。このように、わが社では既

に持続可能性実現のプロセスを開始しており、今後

もこの理念を真剣に、責任をもって追求していく計

画です。」

イタリアで開催される国際テキスタイル見本市「

ミラノ・ウニカ」でもここ5年、持続可能なテキスタイ

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64: In Focus: Fendi

注目のブランド：フェンディ

パーソナリティあふれるファッションハウス、フェンデ

ィは職人技と現代的な革新を融合させている。ハリ

エット・クイックがレポートする。

女性がはじめて芸術作品に描かれた時から、エキゾ

チックな花々や動物は古典的な女らしさと結び付け

られてきた。フェンディは2015年春夏コレクション

で、そうしたイメージの連想を巧みに現代化してみせ

た。ショーの幕開けは、青とピンクと白の蘭のモチ

ーフを全面に散らしたAラインドレスをまとったカー

ラ・デルヴィーニュ。後ろで束ねた髪には革製の蘭

の髪飾り。長い葉っぱが肩で弾んで、部族のお守り

のようだ。手にはフェンディのベストセラー、新しく出

たピーカブー・バッグのミニチュア版を提げている。

高級ファッションハウスの多くと同様に、フェン

ディも元々は旅行カバンと鞍のメーカーだった。第

一号店は、アデーレとエドアルドのフェンディ夫妻が

1925年にローマにオープンした小さなアトリエだ。

当時は偉大なる芸術的発見や建築の実験が行わ

れた時代で、同社も職人技と先見性あるデザイン

を誇りとし、鮮やかな黄色のハウスカラーで熱意と

革新を強調した美しい造りの革製品で買い物心を

くすぐった。しばらくして夫妻の5人の娘も家業に入

り、1960年代にはカール・ラガーフェルドを機用して

フェンディをファッション大手へと成長させていく。

ラガーフェルドは、今でも同ブランドのクリエイティ

ブ・ディレクターを務めている。

フェンディが用いる技巧は今や進歩が著しく、

複雑で繊細な造りの服がどのように一体になってい

るのか、わかりづらいこともしばしばだ。カーラ・デ

ルヴィーニュが着ていたシフトドレスは、細い切れ

目の間からチュール地がのぞく分節構造の鎧のよう

な造りになっている。スカイブルーやシュガーピンク

の羽を何層にも重ね、ウェストを編みベルトで締め

ルメーカーのファブリックの展示にますます力を入れ

ている。そうしたメーカーの一つが、テキスタイルの

仕上げに革新的なプロセスを取り入れているカネパ

だ。「このプロセスは、エビの殻をリサイクルしてでき

るキトサンというバイオポリマーが基本になっていま

す」と、同ブランドの持続可能性追求プログラムを率

いるアルフォンソ・サイベネ・カネパはいう。「持続可

能性があるというのは、このキトサンのおかげでエネ

ルギーと水の消費量が従来のテキスタイル生産プロ

セスに比べて40%削減されたからです。」

ミラノ・ウニカのコンサルタント、アウロラ・マグ

ニは、イタリアをはじめとするヨーロッパの紡績工場

は環境に対する企業責任に関して厳しい規則を守ら

なければならないと指摘する。「もちろん、そうした

規則の遵守は重要ですが、もうそれだけでは十分で

なくなってきています。ファッションブランドや小売

店から仕入先への要求が強まっており、生産工程で

特定の化学物質を全く使用しないという具体的な保

証を求められるようになっているのです。」

グリーンピースのデトックス・キャンペーンでは

ファッションブランドの責任を指摘し、各種の持続

可能性基準が満たされるように最もエコ・フレンドリ

ーな生産者から仕入れるよう呼びかけている。ミラ

ノ・ウニカでは、そうした倫理的な仕入先とブランド

の橋渡しをしている。同見本市のゼネラルマネージャ

ー、マッシモ・モジエッロによれば、「テキスタイルや

アクセサリーの工場の環境配慮を強調できるように

するためのツールとして技術カタログを製作し、好評

を得ています」という。「企業がこのカタログに掲載

されるには、事実情報と文献を提出しなければなり

ません。私たちの狙いは、ファブリックやアクセサリ

ーに関する情報全てが真実で信頼できるものである

ことをクライアントに保証し、識別を容易にすること

です。」

持続可能性への取り組みを約束することは、ブ

ランドにとっては一層のプレッシャーになるが、ロー

マの一流ブティックに並ぶ新しい衣料品が地球を傷

つけることなく、むしろ保護していると思えば、それも

甲斐があるというもの。「多くの企業が、倫理的で責

任ある企業という評判が立てば競争上有利だという

ことを理解しています。倫理的な企業であることは決

して容易ではありませんが、市場にはそうした努力を

認識し、それに報いようという姿勢があります」とい

うのがマグニの結論だ。

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たり、胴の部分に裂け目を入れた漆革を使って柔軟

な「檻」のように造ったパーティドレスもある。その

他、革のベストはジョルジョ・デ・キリコの形而上絵

画に発想を得た手描きのモチーフが特徴だ。

現在はLVMHが支配株主となっているフェン

ディは、現代の高級品市場で中軸的な位置づけにあ

る。2015年に創立90周年を迎えるこのファッション

ハウスは最近、新しく修復されたランドマーク的な建

物、パラッツォ・デッラ・チヴィルタ・イタリアーナに

入居した。アーチを何層にも積み上げたような外壁

が印象的なこの1940年代の建物は建築の偉業とい

えるもので、中にはデザインスタジオをはじめオフィス

や文書庫があり、400名のスタッフが勤務している。

フェンディのデザインの歴史を物語るショーケース的

役割もあり、このブランドが長年にわたって創り出し

た多くの代表的デザインが展示されている。

その一つがバゲットバッグ。1997年にいわゆる「

究極の」バッグブームを巻き起こした作品だ。「いろ

いろあった要望の中に、とりわけ使いやすくて機能

的なハンドバッグをというのがあったんです。ある意

味で、ちょうどその時代のように技術を駆使したミニ

マルなものを創るという課題でした」と、アデーレ・フ

ェンディの孫娘でクリエイティブ・ディレクターのシル

ヴィア・ヴェンチュリーニ・フェンディは振り返る。「と

ころが私はどうも反抗的でして、それが幸いして生ま

れたのがバゲット。要望とは正反対のバッグでした。

それが前代未聞の成功を収め、世界で最も望まれる

商品の一つになったのです。」今ではマイ・バゲット

135

という画期的なアプリを使って、自分で飾りや色を

選ぶことができるようになっている。

1938年に発売されたセレリアラインは、肌目の

粗いしなやかなロマーノレザーにコントラストの効い

たステッチが自慢。毛皮とレザーでできた愛らしい

バッグバグは小動物や漫画のキャラクターを象った

もので、カール・ラガーフェルド自身のもある。バッ

グバグはファッション界でカルト的人気を博し、ヴォ

ーグ・ジャパンのアンナ・デッロ・ルッソからソランジ

ュ・ノウルズまで多くのスタイルアイコンが提げ、ペッ

トのように可愛がっている。「インスピレーションは

私がブラジルを旅していた時に見た素晴らしい熱帯

鳥で、それぞれが美しい色とりどりの羽根や羽毛を持

っていました」というヴェンチュリーニ・フェンディ。

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136

選したレップタイで、グリンリーフのジェット族スタイ

ルは完成だ。　

リプリーがストリートマーケットをうろつく長回

しのシーンは、キャットウォークをそのままもってき

たといってもおかしくないほどで、アラン・ドロン演じ

るリプリーが半分モデル、半分狂人に見える。シャツ

の袖をまくり上げ、片肩越しにブレザーを引っ掛けて

お決まりのキメポーズをとって見せるのだ。この映画

は、ストーリーそのものよりスタイルを重視した感も

強い。例えばラストシーンは、観客がじりじりしなが

ら待っていた逮捕の映像ではなく、水泳パンツに厚

手のカーディガンを羽織った粋な姿のリプリーがビ

ーチを漫ろ歩く姿で終わる。

映画の根底にあるテーマの一つは、洋服がいか

にコスチュームになり得るかだ。役を演じる俳優が着

るだけでなく、キャラクター自身が他人に成りすます

ためにコスチュームとして着る。例えば、リプリーがグ

リンリーフの服を試しに着ているところへグリンリー

フ本人が現れるシーンがあり、後の展開の伏線とな

っている。このように、映画では策略の道具として使

われている衣装だが、GQ、スタジオ・カナル、H&M

ライフをはじめとする各誌の評論家は、一つの完全

なスタイルの基礎を成したとコメントしている。

しかもそれは、半世紀以上を経た今も通用する

スタイルだ。「この映画にインスピレーションを得て、

フェンディの世界には、手作りの家具や香水（ベ

ストセラーはシンプルに「ファン ディ フェンディ」と

呼ばれている）、時計、個性的なサングラスなどもあ

る。職人気質は明らかに家系だ。シルヴィア・ヴェン

チュリーニ・フェンディの娘のデルフィーナ・デレット

レーズは、大胆でシュールなジュエリーの商品ライン

も出している。

フェンディに個性とユーモアのセンスがあるの

は紛れもない。シリアスな高級品業界では稀な特性

だ。フェンディの世界に足を踏み入れれば笑顔にな

ること間違いなしだ。

fendi.com

72: Forever Cool

永遠の粋人

1960年代の映画『太陽がいっぱい』で随所に見ら

れる絶妙に着崩した優雅な装いが、今もなおイタリ

ア人のスタイル感覚に影響を与えている。ジョッシ

ュ・シムズがレポートする。

ファッションと欺瞞をテーマにしたフランスのサスペ

ンス映画『太陽がいっぱい』は、1960年代きっての

スタイリッシュな映画の一つと言われている。優雅な

イタリアンリヴィエラを舞台に、貧しいトム・リプリー

がお金持ちのフィリップ・グリンリーフと親しくなり、

そのアイデンティティを盗もうとするストーリーだ。こ

の映画は美的印象の強さで知られ、絵ハガキに出て

くるようなイタリアの風景や豪華ヨット、街の広場に

あるカフェ、独身貴族のアパートメントなど麗しい映

像が満載だが、中でも出色なのはリプリーとグリンリ

ーフのワードローブだ。この作品を映画史上最もス

タイリッシュなものにしたのは出演スターの装いであ

り、その影響は封切55周年を目前にした今もなおイ

タリアのスタイル観にはっきり表れている。

ヨットのシーンは洋上のファッションショーさな

がらで、ポロシャツや花柄プリントの半そでシャツ、

ゆったりしたリネンのシャツは裾をわざと半分出し前

をいつも半ばはだけた状態で、それ以上ボタンを留

めるのが面倒とでもいうような風情。オフホワイトの

ジーンズにスナッフルビット・ローファー、裾をたくし

上げたカーキのパンツにエスパドリーユといった装

いは、まさに海辺のシックの典型だ。一方、ローマを

舞台としたシーンでは、グレーや薄いクリーム、ブル

ーといった抑えた色調のシャンタンシルクのスーツが

街の風景に映える。ダークスーツに白のローファーと

いった、ファッションエチケットの専門家が見たら赤

面するような組み合わせも難なくキメている。足元は

もちろんノー・ソックス。それにストライプのボーティ

ングブレザー、モノグラムプリントのシャツ一式、厳

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137

グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利

用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街に

ある27万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得に

なります。

年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルー

の免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。

手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探し

ます。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル・

ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップを

踏むだけです。

1. お買い物

お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免

税書類（タックスフリー・フォーム）を受け取ってくだ

さい。

2.還付請求

ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関で免税書類にスタ

ンプを押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーの還

付事務所で払い戻しを受けます。

お問い合わせ：

taxfree@globalblue.com

+421 232 111 111

€159.94以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最高

15.5％の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い戻

し額は、付加価値税（VAT）合計から事務手数料

を差し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承くだ

さい。一部の空港で現金での即時払い戻しをご希望

の場合は、取り扱い手数料が免税書類ごとに課され

ます。

114: When you shop the world,

shop tax free

海外でのお買い物が免税に

いかにも豊かな装い、ごくカジュアルでありながらキ

レのある装いを目指す新しい世代がいます」と、イギ

リスの仕立て屋でデザイナーのティモシー・エベレス

トはいう。1999年のリメーク『リプリー』で衣装を担

当したエベレストいわく、「それはプレイボーイのスタ

イル。伝統的なアイテムを着崩し、金と自信があって

他人にどう見られようと気にしないといった風情を醸

し出すのです。そのために実はいろいろ苦心している

んですが、そんなことはおくびにも見せません。」

つまり、リゾートで日焼けした富裕層、金と暇が

有り余っていて世の中を遊び場だと思える1960年代

初頭の有閑階級が好んだ服装のエッセンスといって

いいスタイルだ。モダンイタリアンファッションはこの

巧妙にくつろいだスタイルをよく参考にし、うるさい

柄を避け、高級生地を取り入れて、細心の注意を払

って着崩したルックスに仕立てている。リプリーやグ

リンリーフが着た服はイタリアの風景にも呼応してい

る。桟橋の古木材や古い石造りの建物を背景に洗

いざらした白系、鮮やかな地中海を背景に青色系の

衣装を配し、グリンリーフのヨットのカンバス地の帆

には淡いピンク色を反映している。

『太陽がいっぱい』でドロンのスタイリングをし

たのは彼自身ではなくコスチュームデザイナーのベ

ラ・クレマンだが、何気ないシックさはドロンの生涯

を通じた売りになった。1978年に発売したフレグラ

ンスの成功を皮切りに、洋服やアクセサリーにも進

出していく。それはさておき、ドロンを有名にしたこ

の映画では、服はより深いレベルの役割を担ってい

る。階級や教育、ライフスタイルの違いを見せること

でキャラクターを体系化した上で、世間の目に映るそ

うした違いは服を変えるだけで簡単に覆すことがで

きることをほのめかしているのだ。グリンリーフがリ

プリーに向かって「おっと、そんな靴じゃ僕のヨット

には乗せられないな」と注意するシーンがあるが、デ

ッキに向かない靴だという意味なのか、場所を問わ

ず感心しない靴だといっているのか、今一つはっきり

しない。この問いは答えられず終いで、スタイルにこ

だわる人にとっては永遠の悩みの種になっている。

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138 | PRODUCTS

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114

SCARVES OF SIX CITIES

Emilio Pucci has revisited the iconic Battistero

scarf design to create a special six-piece

collection called Cities of the World. The

original Battistero scarf, released in 1957, is

a brightly coloured print of the Piazza Santa

Maria del Fiore in Florence, sketched by Emilio

Pucci, the founder of the brand, himself. The

new collection pays homage to Rome, Florence,

New York, Paris, Shanghai and Hong Kong,

with sketches hand-drawn in the house atelier

in a style sympathetic to the original. Inspired

by architectural landmarks, the scenes depict

avenue Montaigne in Paris, the Shanghai

skyline, Hong Kong’s skyscrapers and

New York’s Central Park. The Rome edition

pictured here shows the city’s historical Spanish

Steps, in vivid hues of fuchsia and turquoise.

Printed in the silk district of Como, the scarves

are made from the fnest twill, hand-fnished

by artisans and presented in a brightly coloured

gift box. The Rome edition makes an ideal

keepsake to take home from the city. gl

Emilio Pucci Rome Cities of the World

scarf, €295, Emilio Pucci,

Piazza di Spagna 87, 00187 Rome,

+39 06 678 4058, emiliopucci.com

* for map go to page 92

SOUVENIR