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Page 44
STREETS
AHEAD:
Hamburg’s must-see
creative districts
HA
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HAMBURG | ГАМБУРГ | 汉堡 | هامبورغ
If you are looking for a wide selection
of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery,
you only need to keep one name in mind.
For more than 135 years, the name
“WEMPE” has stood for the utmost
expertise in the art of making jewellery
and timepieces. We offer a unique
selection of valuable treasures at 28
Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are
especially proud because for more than
a century we have been privileged to
contribute to the grand feelings that our
customers express when they purchase
jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of
jewellery uphold international standards
and are born in our own atelier. This is
true for unusual one-of-a-kind items
as well as for our diverse assortment
of classic pieces with brilliant-cut
diamonds. And a century-old friendship
links us with the world’s foremost watch
www.wempe.com We accept all credit cards.
manufactories. You will find WEMPE
showrooms at the loveliest locations
in great European metropolises, New
York City and in Beijing. Each shop also
offers service or advice whenever you
require it, so you can be certain that we
will always be available to meet your
individual needs. We cordially invite you
to discover an abundance of interesting
new items and exclusive special models
at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We
look forward to your visit!
Hamburg, Jungfernstieg 8,
T +49.(0)40.33 44 88 24
Hamburg, Mönckebergstraße 19
T +49.(0)40.33 44 88 20
HAMBURG LONDON PARIS NEW YORK
ein Schweizer Traditionsunternehmenund eines der führenden Häuser fürUhren und Schmuck in Europa. In unserem Hamburger Geschäft amJungfernstieg erwartet Sie eine großeAuswahl an Luxus-Uhrenmarken sowieexquisite Schmuckstücke und einerstklassiger Service.
Willkommen bei Bucherer,
a Swiss company with a long traditionand one of the leading establishmentsfor watches and jewellery in Europe. In our Hamburg store directly atJungfernstieg you will find a broad selection of luxury watch brands and exquisite jewellery, as well as first-classservice.
Welcome to Bucherer,
Hamburg Jungfernstieg 25
WATCHES JEWELRY GEMS
und viele mehrand many more
Pat
ek P
hil
ipp
e is
ava
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llow
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Bu
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erli
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stra
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179,
Fra
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Kai
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and
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esid
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traß
e 11
.
Berlin Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Munich Nuremberg | BaselBern Davos Geneva Interlaken Lausanne Locarno Lugano LucerneSt. Gallen St. Moritz Zermatt Zurich | Vienna | Paris | bucherer.com
Te Alsterhaus, situated on Hamburg’s Jungfernstieg waterfront
boulevard and overlooking the Alster lake, is one of the world’s
leading department stores. Since 1912, the Alsterhaus has been
at the forefront of style and luxury with over 24,000 m2 of retail
foor space.
Te Alsterhaus represents the international lifestyle by ofering its customers
exceptional fashion, beauty and home & living trends as well as food beverages.
Numerous shop-in-shops spread over 6 sales foors take the shopper on a journey
to the world’s great shopping metropolises, offering its clientele a retail
experience of the frst degree. Te Alsterhaus is steeped in historical ambience
and looks back on a more than one hundred year-old history, comparable to
Harrods in London or Galeries Lafayette in Paris. Since the very beginning,
this traditional Hamburg department store has been one of Germany’s leading
department stores.
On the third floor you will find an incomparable
assortment of the fnest women’s undergarments and
lingerie as well as home and living accessories and
Kid’s Fashion.
Te frst and second foor at
Alsterhaus offer a modern
selection of fashion brands
for women and men as well
as a hairdresser. A special
highlight is our premium
lounge private shopping
area with a stupendous view
over the Alster lake.
In the Alsterhaus beauty department spread
over 1,500 m², customers will fnd the luxury
brands, newcomer fragrances and innovative
natural cosmetics. Fashion accessories from
major international brands can also be found
on the ground foor.
On the Alsterhaus basement level the customers will fnd a
unique selection of masterfully crafed writing instruments,
leather goods, luggage, a ticket shop and a customer service.
Highlights of our customer service include a cloakroom,
tailoring, personal shoppers, global shipping and beauty lounges.
The 4th floor invites true gourmets to sample a
veritable cornucopia of wines and delicacies in our
gourmet boulevard, as well as one-of-a-kind Veuve
Clicquot champagne bar. Our culinary specialists
at our LeBuffet restaurant prepare meals in front
of guests.
PERSONAL SHOPPER
We will happily provide you with a Personal Shopper who will accompany, serve and expertly advise you
throughout your visit to Alsterhaus. Our VIP Service specialists will make your shopping trip into a unique
individual experience. We cater specifcally to your personal preferences, ideas and wishes. Afer an informal
discussion and a thorough image consultation, we compile an exclusive selection just for you, from which
you can pick out and try on your favourite items. Enjoy your visit to our store in a private atmosphere & with
a sparkling glass of champagne or a stimulating espresso.
For further information, please contact us on +49 40 3590 1677 or E-Mail: [email protected]
SERVICES
TIME IS A LUXURY NOWADAYS,
SO LET US MAKE TIME FOR YOU!
In addition, the Alsterhaus is delighted to ofer you many other exclusive services, such as:
TOURS OF THE LEGENDARY ALSTERHAUS
Explore the legendary Alsterhaus and learn lots of interesting things, from its beginnings to the department
store’s presence today. We would like to accompany you and your guests on an individual tour, which ofers
you an introduction to an unforgettable shopping experience. Simply call our VIP Service to book your
personal tour.
CLOAKRO OM AND LUGGAGE STORAGE
You can leave your coats and jackets as well as your shopping free of charge in the lockers on the Lower
Ground Floor.
GIFT-WRAPPING SERVICES
Out expertise is to make even the smallest gif stand out. A gif-wrapping service is available at all Alsterhaus
checkouts. We are happy to wrap free of charge any items purchased at our store, using our luxury Alsterhaus
gif paper.
BEAUT Y LOUNGES & SERVICES
Te exclusive wellness & treatment area provides relief from the stresses of the day and beckons you into the
world of the senses. Indulge yourself with the latest treatments and professional services that are available
from our beauty specialists in our beauty lounges. In addition, whether you need a wellness manicure and
pedicure, a new Make-up or a perfect hair-styling, all beauty treatments are carried out at Alsterhaus with
total care and professionalism. For further information contact our Beauty Department.
MADE-TO-MEASURE SHIRTS
Eton, van Laack and Jacques Britt – design your own custom-made shirt. Choose from over 450 exklusive
cotton fabrics and a unique selection of collar and cuf styles to create your personal shirt – for business or
leisure. Visit us on the 1st foor. Please call +49 40 3590 1677 to arrange an appointment.
COMPLIMENTARY WIFI
Simply log-in while you are visiting the Alsterhaus and enjoy complimentary wireless internet connection
for up to 3 hours.
CUSTOMER SERVICES
Unfortunately even we cannot always completely check all our products. Should you fnd a fault with your
purchase from Alsterhaus, we will do our utmost to resolve the matter quickly, without complications and
to your full satisfaction. Should you have any questions, suggestions or complaints, our customer services
on the Lower Ground Floor are always willing to listen. Our top priority is to fulfl your every wish and to
always do better for you.
TAX FREE AVAILABLE AT EACH CASH POINT.
Currency choice available, which allows you to pay in your own currency.
ALSTERHAUS Hamburg · Jungfernstieg 16 – 20 · 20354 Hamburg
Phone: +49 40 3590 10 · Fax: +49 40 3590 1310 · Email: [email protected]
Opening Hours: Mon - Sat 10 am - 8 pm · www.alsterhaus.de
CHRIST jewellers and watchmakers in Hamburg
2x Alstertal Einkaufszentrum · Mönckebergstraße 18 · Europa-Passage · Elbe-Einkaufszentrum
Spitaler Straße 32 · Wandsbek Quarree · Phoenix-Center (Harburg) · Eppendorfer Landstraße 77
(inside Karstadt)
www.christ.de
CHRIST DIAMONDS �કDŽ200 䒐 CHRIST ϧप刧偹ᖋ㊁ˈ
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Emma Cheevers
EDITOR’S LETTER
14
/globalblue /globalblue@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue
@GlobalBlue /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu
@shopcontent
Welcome to Hamburg
Maybe you’re already familiar with Hamburg, or perhaps it’s the frst
time you’ve visited this vibrant port city. Either way, SHOP magazine
is sure to ofer something to surprise you. Discover the avant-garde
Sternschanze district in our feature on page 44. In this edition, we
also meet Kim-Eva Wempe and Catherine Plouchard of luxury jeweller
Wempe (page 60) and seek out some of Hamburg’s most applauded
restaurants (page 68).
SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader
that helps you save up to 14.5% when shopping in Germany. We publish
guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international
insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top
global brands you’ll fnd in Hamburg. For the very latest information,
visit globalblue.com.
Be sure to sign up for your free Global Blue Card for the simplest
way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and
enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit
globalblue.com/join.
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دليل ألانيا德国指南
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Vilnius ILL
US
TR
AT
ION
: IS
AA
C B
ON
AN
OYSTER PERPETUAL MILGAUSS
H A M B U R G - P O S T S T R A S S E 9 - 11
Welcome to Hamburg,
the lifestyle capital of the north. Enjoy your stay in a city where history and modernity go hand in hand. You will fi nd the GALERIA Kaufhof shopping paradise in the heart of the city on Mönckebergstraße, right next to the main railway station. Visit GALERIA Kaufhof and be inspired by the wide variety of products from famous brand name manufacturers, the excellent service and the fabulous atmosphere. If you come from a country outside the EU, please enjoy tax-free shopping at GALERIA Kaufhof!
We look forward to seeing you!
Please scan the QR-code with your smart-phone to get more information about your GALERIA store Hamburg, Mönckebergstrasse.
HAMBURGMÖNCKEBERGSTRASSE
... makes you fall in love with Germany
GALERIA Kaufhof...
www.galeria.deGALERIA Kaufhof GmbH, Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1, 50676 Cologne
Beauty and more …visit Europe’�
No. 1 perfumery!
• Mönckebergstraße 8 / Spitalstraße 7, 040 - 326734
• Neuer Wall 1-5 / Jungfernstieg 7, 040 - 343614
WE WILL BE PLE ASED TO WELCOME YOU TO THE
DOUGL A S WORLD OF BE AU T Y IN HAMBURG :
Discover a perfumery tradition that dates back more than 100 years, and enjoy Europe’s largest assortment of leading beauty brands – from exclusive fragrances and luxury skin care to trendy color cosme-tic products and fashion accessories.
With 1,200 perfumeries in 18 countries, we are dedicated to providing excellent services and personal consultation to our customers.
Explore our world of beauty!
CONTRIBUTORS
22
globalblue.com
Rebecca Fearn
English graduate Rebecca
Fearn is a fashion intern at
SHOP and a freelance writer
with her own fashion blog.
She has gained experience
at a variety of publications
including The Times and
The Sunday Times Style.
Gwyneth Holland
Journalist and trend consultant
Gwyneth Holland works with
leading brands and agencies
to discover the future and
also writes for global fashion
publications. She is one of the
founders of new fashion trends
service Unique Style Platform.
Muti
Muti created the cover
illustration for this season’s
SHOP Hamburg. The
studio’s clever artwork has
previously been commissioned
by publications such as
Condé Nast Traveler, Time
and Elle, among others. Its
lively graphic style is perfect
for this cover, inspired by
our feature about two of
Hamburg’s up-and-coming
bohemian shopping areas
on page 44. The illustration
features colourful buildings
that are home to independent
boutiques, bars and
quirky cafés and elegantly
encapsulates the areas’
creative, lively vibe.
Read more about our
cover illustrations at
globalblue.com/covers.
ILLU
STR
ATIO
N: S
TUD
IO M
UTI
– F
OLI
O A
RTP
HO
TO: T
ESS
HA
RO
LD
Ruairidh Pritchard
Ruairidh Pritchard, assistant
production editor at SHOP,
studied journalism in
Glasgow, where he was editor
of his university’s award-
winning magazine. Ruairidh
is a keen traveller and writes
for a variety of publications.
PH
OTO
: DIO
NN
E H
ÉLÈN
E
calvinklein.com
Hamburg Neuer Wall 15
SHOP FLOOR
24
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the
information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury
or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2015 Global Blue
E DI TOR I A L
Editor-in-chief
Emma Cheevers
PU BL I SH I NG
Publisher
James Morris
Managing editor
Sally McIlhone
Cover illustrator
Studio Muti – Folio Art
Contributors
Gwyneth Holland,
Hamish Monk
Production editor
Caterina Mazzolai
Assistant production editor
Ruairidh Pritchard
Features editor
Verity Hogan
City guide and lifestyle editor
Isabella Redmond Styles
Fashion editor
Ximena Daneri
News editor
Hannah Lewis
Fashion and news assistant
Theresa Harold
Fashion and news intern
Rebecca Fearn
Chief sub-editor
Hester Lacey
Copy editors
Katie Davis,
Sue Flook,
Claire Gervat,
Ann Morphew,
Harriet O’Brien
Picture editor
Kirsty Andrews
Creative editor/deputy picture editor
Sarah Beyts
Assistant picture editor
Grace Bird
Picture assistants
Mónica R Goya,
Sarah Walker
Art direction
Design by S-T
Artwork editor
Adam Dhaliwal
Artworking assistants
Dionne Hélène,
Milkha Lala,
George Trinick
Artworking intern
Samantha Junak
Online managing editor
Kirsty Welsh
Online production assistant
Marina Nelson
Online assistant
Emily Scrivener
Chinese editor
Yuan Fang
Associate Chinese editor
Junjie Dou
Chinese contributing editor
Qingya He
Chinese editorial assistants
Yunhan Fang, Yangzi Liu
Chinese translators
Xun Ji, Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi,
Yi Zhang
Russian editor
Anastasia Nemchenok
Associate Russian editor
Daria Orlova
Russian translators
Diana Fitkulina, Teena Garnik,
Gary Ramazanov
Arabic editor
Haneen Malaeb
Japanese editor
Kyoko Nishimoto
Dane Consultancy
Commercial editor
Gemma Latham
Commercial artworking assistant
Aaron Carline
AVP business development manager
Patrice Janet
Head of digital
Eamonn Leacy
Digital campaign manager
Nina Kobalia
Digital marketing executive
Wenhan Zhang
Digital markting intern
Anastasia Budieva
Product manager
Devesh Sankadecha
Digital intern
Sammy Ha
Advertising and partnership manager
Riccardo Canini
GL OBA L BLU E GE R M A N Y
Vice president sales central Europe
Thorsten Lind
Country manager
Jörg Schönbeck
Marketing sales manager
Michael Mauerhoff
Sales manager
Pino Dufter
Global Blue Germany,
Vogelsanger Weg 38,
40470 Düsseldorf,
Regional tourist office
Hamburg Tourismus GmbH,
Steinstrasse 7, 20095 Hamburg,
+49 (0)40 3005 1300,
hamburg-tourism.de
Chief Executive Officer
David Baxby
Chief Traveller Officer
Craig Le Grice
SHOP is published by
Global Blue
Group headquarters
Global Blue SA,
Route de Crassier 7,
CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland
Corporate registration number
5565726923
globalblue.com
SWATCH FLAGSHIPSTORE, Jungfernstieg 7
Then you’ve come to the right place at C&A. Awaiting you here are the latest trends, ranging from sporty to elegant, as well as a truly special shopping experience. We offer our customers a large selection of ladies’, men’s and children’s fashions – of course always of the highest quality and at extremely low prices.
facebook.com/ca
In the mood for fashion?
visit us: www.canda.com
Hamburg Mönckebergstraße 9 • Altona Mercado-Center • Wandsbek Quarree • Elbe-EKZ
Вы любите моду?Тогда посетите магазины C&A. В наших торговых
центрах вас ожидают товары новейших трендов
в любом стиле от спортивного до элегантного.
Шоппинг в них станет для вас событием особого
рода. У нас вы найдете широкий ассортимент
модной женской, мужской и детской одежды –
конечно же лучшего качества и по самым
привлекательным ценам.
هل أنت راغب بآخر الصيحات؟
إذا ستسعد بما تقدمه محلت C&A. ستجدون لدينا أخر صيحات الموضة،
من ملبس السبور إلى قمة الناقة. وماعليكم إل أن تتمتعوا بالتسوق في
محلتنا. لقد عودنا زبائننا الكرام على تشكيلة واسعة من ملبس السيدات
والرجال والطفال ذات النوعية العالية وبأفضل الثمان .
CONTENTS
28
PRODUCTS
32 Check Out
SHOP selects a standout piece from
Hamburg this season
34 Products
Key looks for the season, from fashion
and footwear to jewellery and accessories
N E WS
40 Shop Window
One store not to be missed in Hamburg
41 News
Seasonal updates on shops, services
and new products
F E AT U R E S
44 Cover Story: Creative Quarters
Sternschanze and Karoviertel are
Hamburg’s newly chic areas, flled with
arty stores, bohemian bars and high-end
restaurants, as Hamish Monk discovers
52 The New Normal
Simple, functional luxury is the theme
throughout the spring/summer 2015
collections – a style German brands know
well, says Gwyneth Holland
60 Diamond Duo
As luxury jewellery and watch brand
Wempe launches a new range, owner Kim-
Eva Wempe and creative director Catherine
Plouchard talk to Ruairidh Pritchard
p.60
Above: By Kim Beijing Cosmora ring in the Wempe atelier
E X PE R I E NCE
68 Table Talk
Hamburg’s restaurant culture highlights
seafood and exotic ingredients, says Isabella
Redmond Styles
GU I DE
73 Maps and guides to the key shopping
areas of Hamburg
E SSE N T I A L S
82 How To Shop Tax Free
The simple steps to saving money on
your shopping
T R A NSL AT IONS
84 Русский Перевод
90 美文翻译
93 日本語翻訳
97
POSTC A R D
98 SHOP writes home about Montblanc
PH
OT
O: D
OM
INIK
GIG
LE
R
Hamburg: Neuer Wall 63
Hamburg, MönckebergstraßeKarstadt Warenhaus GmbH | Theodor-Althoff-Straße 2 | 45133 Essen
Our branches in excellent downtown locations of most
important German cities provide shoppers with a modern and
comfortable environment which makes shopping an experience.
Not only strong brands but also our outstanding advisory
service and innovative events attract throngs of buyers.
Enjoy your next shopping spree on the discovery journey
through our store Karstadt Hamburg.
Fashion, Lifestyle & more
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 82
CHECK OUT
32 | PRODUC TS
PH
OT
O: A
NT
ON
IO B
AR
RE
LL
A
collection. Featuring onyx and mother of pearl, the earrings are undoubtedly luxurious, yet very wearable and understated. The rest of the collection is just as desirable, with each piece unique but defned by the fan-like motif that features across the striking collection. rfBulgari Diva earrings in 18-carat pink
gold with onyx and mother of pearl,
€3,500, Bulgari, Neuer Wall 24, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3751 7351,bulgari.com
* for map go to page 78
DIVA DELIGHTS
If one were to sum up the Bulgari Diva collection in a word, that word would surely be ‘luxury’. Renowned for its opulent pieces, the collection was named to celebrate the many flm stars who wore Bulgari jewellery in the 1950s and 60s, including Sophia Loren and Elizabeth Taylor. We adore the elegant take on drop earrings that these pink gold items ofer, and think they refect the best of the
BOGNER HAMBURG Rathausmarkt 4 bogner.com
34 | PRODUCTS
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 82
1. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra
Master Co-Axial watch, €4,350,
Omega, Neuer Wall 2-6,
20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3501 6492,
omegawatches.com
2. Lloyd shoes, €149.90, Lloyd,
Jungfernstieg 7, 20354 Hamburg,
+49 (0)40 3003 9895, lloyd.de
3. Salvatore Ferragamo scarves,
€375 each, Salvatore Ferragamo,
Neuer Wall 41, 20354 Hamburg,
+49 (0)40 378 5360, ferragamo.com
4. Paul Smith bag, €1,215,
Paul Smith, Hohe Bleichen 15,
20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3501 5273,
paulsmith.co.uk
5. Sieger bow tie, €98,
JF Flebbe Männermode,
Eppendorfer Baum 7, 20249 Hamburg,
+49 (0)40 476679, jf-febbe.de
BLACK AND BLUE
Forget the outdated fashion rules and embrace
this overlooked colour combination
2
3
1
5
4
globalblue.com
SHOP | 35
1. Escada blazer, €1,299, Escada,
Grosse Bleichen 23-27,
20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 363296,
escada.com
2. Gucci bag, €1,450, Gucci,
Neuer Wall 34, 20354 Hamburg,
+49 (0)40 357 6330, gucci.com
3. Swarovski Cardinal necklace,
€349, Swarovski, Mönckebergstrasse 7,
20095 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3009 2360,
swarovski.com
4. Esprit dress, €89.99, Esprit,
Gerhof Strasse 1-3, 20354 Hamburg,
+49 (0)40 360 9370, esprit.com
PH
OTO
: (2)
CO
SIM
O S
EREN
I/G
UC
CI S
.P.A
.
FABULOUS FLORALS
Put a spring in your step with these
brightly patterned items
1 4
3
2
36 | PRODUCTS
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 82
3. Massimo Dutti hat, €39.95,
Massimo Dutti, Neuer Wall 38,
20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3003 2533,
massimodutti.com
4. Acne jacket, €650, Acne,
Bleichenbrücke 10, 20354 Hamburg,
+49 (0)40 6360 7533, acnestudios.com
ACTIVE LIVING
Make an eye-catching statement
with these graphic pieces
1
2
3
4
PH
OTO
: (2)
JOS
EPH
INE
SC
HIE
LE
1. Benetton T-shirt, €29.95,
Benetton, Klein Rosenstrasse 14,
20095 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 7679 7116,
benetton.com
2. Michael Kors purse, €40,
Michael Kors, Neuer Wall 10,
20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 2866 5840,
michaelkors.com
globalblue.com
SHOP | 37
PERFECT
ASYMMETRY
Stand out from the crowd with
these far-out fashion fnds
3. Sabrina Dehof bracelet, €279,
Vau, Hegestrasse 44, 20251 Hamburg,
+49 (0)40 4130 5360, vau-hh.de
1. Marc Cain dress, €299, Marc Cain,
Neuer Wall 52, 20354 Hamburg,
+49 (0)40 3609 0189, marc-cain.com
2. Cos jacket, €89, Cos, Neuer Wall 19,
20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 2880 9909,
cosstores.com
4. Cartier bag, €3,900, Cartier,
Neuer Wall 22, 20354 Hamburg,
+49 (0)40 349 6050, cartier.com
3
2
4
1
SATURN HAMBURG
Expertise and a passion for technology
The products are as innovative as their presentation is
striking: modern technology can be experienced first hand,
variety and relevance are key. The range of goods includes
product categories such as consumer electronics, new me-
dia, household appliances, telecommunications, computers,
photography and video.
Customers can shop in their local store, but also online and
even with their smartphone to later pick up their purchases
from the store if they wish. Furthermore, the electronics re-
tailer has installed two Xpress machines at Hamburg airport.
The company is one of the leading players in European elect-
ronics retailing.
Saturn offers a wide range of fascinating branded products
at attractive prices as well as expert advice and customised
service. Just like at a trade fair, customers can find the la-
test trends in technology at the four Saturn stores located
on Mönckebergstraße, in Poppenbüttel, in Bergedorf and at
the ELBE shopping centre.
Mönckebergstraße
Mönckebergstraße 1
20095 Hamburg
Elbe, Einkaufszentrum
Badstraße 4
13357 Berlin
Bergedorf
Bergedorfer Straße 106
21029 Hamburg
Poppenbüttel
Saseler Damm 43
22395 Hamburg
Save up to 14.5% by shopping Tax Free, see page 82
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foors ofset minimalist displays and glass cabinets, and particular mention should be made of the tweed carpets and upholstery, which pay homage to Chanel’s classic roots. The boutique, which covers 327 square metres, carries items from the ready-to-wear collection, as well as bags, shoes and other accessories. It is undoubtedly a must-see for visitors looking to explore the most signifcant luxury shopping destinations in the city. rfChanel, Neuer Wall 75, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 5003 9190, chanel.com
* for map go to page 78
BIGGER AND BETTER
As the birthplace of Chanel’s creative director Karl Lagerfeld, Hamburg plays a signifcant part in the story of the brand. So it may come as no surprise that the city’s Chanel store has relocated to a more luxurious space on the ground foor of Bürgermeisterhaus, an impressive, early 20th-century building in the heart of Hamburg. It was designed by architect Peter Marino and ofers a spacious and stylish shop foor devised with Coco Chanel’s Paris apartment in mind. Marble
HIGH-END BEATS
When it comes to sound, Danish audio expert Bang & Olufsen knows its stuf. The company not only creates some of the best-quality headphones and home audio systems in the world, but also prides itself on pushing the boundaries
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AMAZING ARMANI
Having recently been given an impressive revamp, the luxury shopping street Neuer Wall has just got even better. It has been chosen by renowned Italian label Giorgio Armani as the location of its new Hamburg store. From the ground-foor entrance you fnd yourself in a vast area dedicated to Armani’s coveted women’s collections, from ready-to-wear to accessories. The gentlemen’s equivalent is located upstairs, along with the Giorgio Armani made-to-measure service, available for the frst time in Hamburg. The store will also be the frst Giorgio Armani shop in Germany to stock the new Luxury White capsule collection, a minimalist range focusing almost exclusively on ultra-luxe materials in white, ivory and beige. hlGiorgio Armani, Neuer Wall 69, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3099 78530, armani.com
* for map go to page 78
of premium sound. It’s no surprise, then, that Bang & Olufsen has launched the world’s frst high-end, compact wireless speakers. The new BeoLab 17 speakers, most recently reinvented in a matte black fnish, are beautifully minimalist, crafted from a single piece of extruded aluminium. With their Bluetooth wireless connectivity they can be used throughout your home, ensuring you are surrounded by premium sounds whatever you’re doing. rpBang & Olufsen, Heegbarg 31, 22391 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 602 0126, bang-olufsen.com
globalblue.com
LOOKING FORWARD
To celebrate the opening of the frst & Other Stories shop in Hamburg, the brand threw a suitably hip party flled with infuential industry professionals from Hamburg and beyond. Located in the centre of the main shopping district, the generous space provides customers with an ultra-cool selection of ready-to-wear, accessories, jewellery and cosmetics. Owned by the H&M group, & Other Stories was launched in March 2013, with stores in seven European countries. Since then, it has flled a niche in the market for fashion-forward pieces with an emphasis on quality. Styling and individuality also play a key part in the brand’s identity, and customers are invited to interpret the collection in their own unique way. th& Other Stories, Neuer Wall 20, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 5003 2251, stories.com * for map go to page 78
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42 | N E WS
ODE TO CRAFTSMANSHIP
A Prada show is never just about the clothes, and spring/summer 2015 was no exception. This was about the set (lilac-coloured sand dunes), the soundtrack (courtesy of Frédéric Sanchez) and even the canapés (squares of chocolate on pieces of dry bread). And, because nothing is ever incidental with Miuccia Prada, these elements combined to produce a subtle presage. It spoke of a post-apocalyptic future in which we all wear 19th-century brocade – slightly the worse for wear. With each look, the clothes seemed to be gently unravelling. From fraying silks to patchwork panels, the items in the show had the appearance of having survived a great tragedy and then having been lovingly restored. There were 30 diferent brocades in the collection, all faithfully reproduced from antique textiles exclusively for Prada. The show was an ode to craftsmanship and the role of fashion in conserving those skills. thPrada, Hohe Bleichen 21, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 351 0590, prada.com
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TECHNOLOGY MADE PERSONAL
Apple has unveiled its frst venture in wearable technology: the Apple Watch. It features a revolutionary new user interface which links to your iPhone, allowing access to applications such as text messaging and map directions on your wrist. The Apple Watch’s beautiful design includes fnishing options such as 18-carat gold, as well as numerous strap options ranging from traditional leather to a high-performance sports band, so the watch can be customised to match the wearer’s own style. This makes it not only a piece of cutting-edge technology but also a stunning timepiece. rpApple, Jungfernstieg 12, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3496 28000, apple.com
* for map go to page 78
COUNTRYSIDE CHIC
British luxury landed in Hamburg this season with the opening of a new Mulberry store on Neuer Wall, the city’s leading shopping street. The design of the store, which covers 220 square metres, takes inspiration from the English countryside, particularly through the textures and colours that are featured. Leather tiles (designed by British artist Genevieve Bennett) line the walls and refect the British brand’s heritage of leather craftsmanship. Shelves made from hand-carved oak are set above limestone foors to create an especially elegant space. The interior’s neutral shades allow impressive pieces such as the brand’s Bayswater bag to stand out, as well as products from its footwear and ready-to-wear collections. The store promises to be a haven for visitors seeking a luxurious, sophisticated experience. rfMulberry, Neuer Wall 69, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 5544 4620, mulberry.com
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Hamburg’s commercial area is undergoing a cultural renaissance as its north-western districts welcome independent boutiques, cutting-edge restaurants and cult international brands, says Hamish Monk
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Above: the weekly food market in Hamburg’s Sternschanze district / 84 90
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Hamburg has been an industrial driving force in central Europe since the early 19th century. Over time the city has expanded to become the continent’s second largest port and is also widely known as Germany’s gateway to the world. Today, this commercial juggernaut is enjoying a cultural renaissance, with two areas in particular – Sternschanze and Karoviertel – becoming two of Germany’s most interesting shopping districts, flled with independent stores, bohemian bars and high-end restaurants.
Sternschanze is situated north west of the city centre, and has become one of Hamburg’s most vibrant, avant-garde areas. Since the 1980s Sternschanze has been seen as the city’s innovative hub, and its artistic credentials still hold true today, with a mix of independent boutiques, pop-up shops and fashionable bars and restaurants lining the streets. It has attracted some of Hamburg’s most creative types.
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Above (from top): Mala store; an example of handcrafed jewellery available at Mala
Two such residents are Angelika Schulz and Peter Freese, who spent several years travelling across Asia and then returned to Hamburg in 2000 and opened Mala, one of Sternschanze’s most intriguing stores. Stocking a wide variety of imported homewear, jewellery and accessories, Mala is something of a local institution. ‘We opened the shop 15 years ago,’ Freese explains. ‘At that time Sternschanze was more of an area for people without much money, such as manual workers,
students and artists.’ Since then, the district has evolved into a creative and cultural melting pot. ‘Sternschanze has a great mix of urban cultures,’ Freese continues. ‘It’s a party place, a good spot for food, a sightseeing area; it has a bit of everything.’
Another of Sternschanze’s hotspots is Altes Mädchen, one of the city’s most popular eateries. Translating as ‘old girl’, Altes Mädchen takes its name from a song about Hamburg by 1950s singer Freddy Quinn. While its name
‘Sternschanze has a great mix of urban cultures. It’s a party place and a good spot for food; it has a bit of everything’ – Peter Freese, Mala
Leading WomensWear Brands and CoLLeCtions
HamBurg aLstertaL-einkaufszentrum Monday Through SaTurday 10 aM - 8 pM
HamBurg mönCkeBergstrasse 15 Monday Through SaTurday 10 aM - 8 pM
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Above (clockwise from top lef): Altes Mädchen restaurant; Sternschanze shopping area in Hamburg; Altes Mädchen founder Patrick Rüther
may nod to the past, the restaurant itself is centred on Germany’s emerging craft beer industry.
Founded by friends and neighbours Oliver Nordmann and Patrick Rüther, Altes Mädchen is in the renovated Schanzenhöfe market hall and aims to put beer at the heart of modern German gastronomy. ‘We opened Altes Mädchen in March 2013, and the Schanzenhöfe was the perfect place,’ says assistant manager Tina Küster. ‘The area’s very old. We opened the frst restaurant here, Bullerei, fve years ago, and with the Ratsherrn brewery next door as well, we were sure that we wanted to open on this site.’
Küster also cites the area’s eclectic atmosphere as a strong contributing factor: ‘Sternschanze is a lovely and very interesting area of Hamburg, with so many diferent people and cultures, diferent kinds of shops and restaurants. Every time you walk through the streets, you fnd something new, and every corner is diferent.’
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Today Karoviertel is home to a collection of high-end dressmakers and ready-to-wear boutiques, marking it out as the most fashion-forward area of Hamburg
To the east of Sternschanze is Karoviertel, a smaller, traditionally working-class residential district which has recently started to demonstrate the same creative spirit as its neighbour, fuelled by the city’s continuing artistic boom. Set between the city centre and the Hamburg fairground, the area – known locally as ‘Karo’ – has retained a distinctive, village-like feel. Today it is home to a collection of high-end dressmakers and ready-to-wear boutiques, marking it out as the most fashion-forward area of Hamburg.
One of Karoviertel’s most prominent stores is Garment. Friends Kathrin Müller and Ullinca Schröder, a dressmaker and costume designer respectively, established Garment after meeting at AMD, Hamburg’s academy of fashion and design. The decision to open in Karoviertel was an easy one. ‘It has a really creative, relaxed, lively and open-minded atmosphere,’ explains Schröder. ‘Karoviertel is often called the little neighbourhood. It’s less crowded than Sternschanze, but far from
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quiet. The main attractions are unique clothes stores, many of them run by fashion designers themselves.’ Garment is a prime example, stocking both menswear and womenswear cut to classic silhouettes and printed with colourful and contemporary designs.
The combination of the old and new is a recurring theme throughout Karoviertel. While the area is flled with historic architecture, the new businesses that have been focking here add a modern edge while cementing Karo’s newly fashionable status. Contemporary tailors Herr Von Eden and cult US brand American
50 | F E AT U R E S
Apparel are just two of the stores that have recently opened in the area.
The spirit of creativity and inclusivity ofered in both Sternschanze and Karoviertel, combined with their old-world charm, is helping Hamburg fourish as the new bohemian heart of Germany. The city has long been Germany’s gateway to the rest of the world, but with its new creative districts it’s become a place that’s well worth taking the time to explore rather than simply passing through malashop.com, altes-maedchen.com, garment-online.de
Above (clockwise from top): the Ratsherrn brewery, next to Altes Mädchen; Garment store interior; shopping in the Karoviertel district
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Discover a wide selection of international brands, such as ...
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Above: English caption xxxxx qui ofciducius ma nit fuga. Faccus in coreratus nistora nat quam aborecepere, et modi quis cum facil
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THE
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For spring/summer 2015, the fashion world is embracing simple, functional luxury – a style that German brands
have long understood, says Gwyneth Holland
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The fashion world is shifting from individualistic, statement dressing to embrace a look that’s quieter, simpler and more ‘normal’. It’s a term that would have horrifed designers and fashion fans a few years ago – but ‘normal’ is now the last word in style.
Since 2014, the fashion world has been a-futter with the coining of a new trend – normcore, a wry term for a way of dressing that focuses on a pared-back, no-label look.
According to K-Hole, the New York trend forecasting agency that came up with the term, ‘Normcore seeks the freedom that comes with non-exclusivity. It fnds liberation in being nothing special, and realises that adaptability leads to belonging. Normcore is a path to a more peaceful life.’
Simpler, more practical and less showy ways of dressing are here to stay. Normcore has now been gleefully co-opted by the fashion
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Above (from lef): Céline; Cos accessories; one of the Cos normcore looks, all spring/summer 2015
industry at large to denote a deliberately simple
style with few embellishments and a focus on
comfort – a style at which German brands from
Adidas to Hugo Boss excel.
At the spring/summer 2015 shows there
was a distinct lack of fashiness on the front
row. Even among the fashion peacocks and
street-style stars who have taken to gathering
outside the catwalk venues, the key trend was
a simple, comfortable and subtle aesthetic.
The message seemed to be that the truly stylish
have no need to show of – the quiet confdence
of a few simple, well-selected garments is
enough to demonstrate their style smarts.
This theme continues throughout the
spring/summer 2015 collections as designers
from New York to Paris focus on a feminine
yet practical way of dressing. Flat shoes,
midi-length skirts, wide trousers and clean
lines are everywhere, with sporty streetwear
touches adding a casual air to even the
sleekest garments.
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Normcore has been gleefully co-opted by the fashion industry at large to denote a deliberately simple style with a few embellishments and a focus on comfort - a style at which German brands excel
56 | FEATURES
Acclaimed Parisian label Céline is helping
to boost the appeal of norm-chic dressing,
through designer Phoebe Philo’s deceptively
simple – and hugely covetable – pieces. Philo
recently told the audience at the Vogue Festival
in London, ‘I hope when women wear Céline
they feel confdent and strong … I have no
problem with a woman wearing anything as
long as she has chosen to wear it for herself.’
And that subtle confdence is clearly resonating
with fashion fans: Céline-like simplicity has
been embraced by many designers and has
become popular among high-street brands,
with restrained colour palettes of black, white,
navy and brown dominating the rails at Zara
and Cos.
Mid-length skirts, wide trousers and clean lines are everywhere, with sporty touches adding a casual air to even the sleekest of garments
Above (from lef): Escada; Jil Sander, both spring/summer 2015
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HAMBURGER HOF · JUNGFERNSTIEG 26 + 28 · 20354 HAMBURG · 040 - 3499 44 61
Above (from lef): Boss; Escada; Jil Sander; Boss, all spring/summer 2015
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At the same time, classic pieces such as trench coats, Breton-striped tops and lace-up shoes are regaining their high fashion status, as women increasingly dress to please themselves, rather than chasing after trends. As a result, jeans are back in the fashion spotlight, along with trainers – and fat shoes in general – while the endless adaptability of a sleek pair of black trousers or a denim jacket are making them must-haves.
The high-fashion take on normcore emphasises clean lines, beautiful fabrics, wearability and function. Leading German brands have long understood the importance of mixing wearability with high fashion, seen in the elegant utility practised at Strenesse as well as the bold simplicity of Escada.
Jil Sander has always been a key proponent of the minimal, thoughtful luxury that’s currently dominating the fashion industry. Now under the creative direction of Italian designer Rodolfo Paglialunga (formerly of Vionnet), the label’s signature
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clean, luxurious look perfectly encapsulates the spring/summer 2015 trends. Inspired by the androgynous look of 1930s Swiss writer and photographer Annemarie Schwarzenbach, the new collection pairs sleek oxblood leather skirts and shorts with clean lilac or pale blue shirts and knits, alongside gently gathered cotton blouson jackets.
At Hugo Boss, Jason Wu brought angular prints and a clean colour palette of black, white, blue and taupe to his utilitarian collection of minimalist suiting, crisp shirt-dresses and plain short-sleeved shirts, all paired with fat sandals. The collection’s unassuming confdence perfectly refects norm-chic style.
And it’s not just on the catwalk that German brands are owning the new laid-back look: with Puma and Adidas trainers on the feet of trendsetters worldwide and the kind of sleek accessories produced by brands such as Bree adorning arms across the world, it looks as though German style has become the new normal P
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DIAMOND
DUO
As Germany’s luxury jewellery and watch expert Wempe launches a bold new aspect to its By Kim range, the brand’s owner Kim-Eva Wempe and
creative director Catherine Plouchard meet Ruairidh Pritchard
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It’s rare to see a brand making a really bold statement uninfuenced by current trends and unmotivated by sales, but luxury German watch and jewellery specialist Wempe has done just that. Cosmora, the latest addition to its By Kim jewellery range, is truly unique and brings the brand’s expert craftsmanship to the fore.
Wempe has been producing the By Kim jewellery range since 2001, and it is named for the company’s current owner Kim-Eva
Wempe, who is the great granddaughter of founder Gerhard D Wempe. With its eighth collection launched, By Kim has become one of Germany’s most popular jewellery brands.
Cosmora is a 12-piece exhibition collection that was unveiled in November 2014. Created by Kim-Eva Wempe and the label’s creative director Catherine Plouchard, the collection includes 12 rings, each inspired by a diferent international city. The range heralds a new age
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Above (clockwise from top lef): Kim-Eva Wempe; Cosmora exhibition; Berlin Cosmora ring in the atelier; Klimt-inspired Wien Cosmora ring; Hamburg Cosmora ring; London Cosmora ring
The 138-year-old company has two intrepid, passionate women holding the reins
for the 138-year-old company, which has two
intrepid, passionate women holding the reins.
The signifcance of having two women at
the helm isn’t lost on Wempe and Plouchard.
‘For me, working with Wempe is perfect
because it’s run by a woman,’ explains
Plouchard. ‘When you’re working with other
women you have a certain lucidity when it
comes to jewellery, and as I like to say, having
an appetite is the best way to cook.’
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Both women pride themselves on knowing
what their customers want, and it was this
understanding that led them to launch the By
Kim range in the frst place. ‘The team started
with women only, and we travelled to jewellery
fairs. Twice a year we would travel to Paris
to buy pieces before we began creating our
own collections,’ explains Wempe. ‘We would
see the American buyers, all men, inspecting
the rings, but it was always all about price,
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As wearers of jewellery, Wempe and Plouchard
knew that pieces had not only to look good
but also be tactile and wearable. ‘Men don’t
think about it like that,’ explains Plouchard.
‘Before the eyes are seduced, the body has to
be seduced – feeling, working with the body,
and being pleasurable to wear, that’s what is
most important.’
French-Italian designer and goldsmith
Catherine Plouchard was persuaded to join
carat, margins and turnover. Price was the last
thing we were interested in. First we held the
jewellery, touched it, fgured out how it feels
to wear – price was always the last question.’
The feel of jewellery is something of a
focus for By Kim. ‘As a team of women, we
started from a diferent point. Perhaps because
of this we became more critical of what we
were seeing: we knew what we as women
wanted, and we couldn’t fnd it,’ says Wempe.
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Above (clockwise from lef): Wempe creative director Catherine Plouchard; Cosmora exhibition; New York Cosmora ring
Wempe thanks to the company’s reputation
for high-quality workmanship. ‘When we met,
Catherine said “but one thing … it’s a German
company”. I knew that as a French-Italian
designer working for a German company
she would be thinking, “I know they can
do cars, but can they really do jewellery?”’
Wempe explains. ‘But she went to the atelier
in Schwäbisch Gmünd and met our goldsmiths,
and then she said yes because she could see that
we knew what we were doing. I always like to
think of it as when art met knowledge, because
she said she had never seen such quality in Italy
or France.’
Since then the company has created eight
collections. Its frst, Sensual, consisted of
organically shaped pendants and rings with
curved bands to emphasise the feeling when
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Above (clockwise from top): San Francisco Cosmora ring; exquisite detail of the Beijing Cosmora ring; the Wempe atelier in Schwäbisch Gmünd; Wempe By Kim frst collection, Sensual
made from nine individual, intertwined gold
strands. And now there is Cosmora.
Inspired by 12 diferent cities around
the world, each ring is designed to symbolise
the location while telling a story. From New
York and Central Park to the Eifel Tower
and Paris and the Klimt-inspired golden
dome of Vienna’s Secession building, every
ring is distinctive. ‘They are beautiful rings,
but they’re also artistic and they tell a story
about each place – it’s about an expression of
a personal impression Catherine and I have
about each place,’ says Wempe.
The rings – some of which feature more
than 200 precious stones – were handmade in PH
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Wempe’s workshop by its master craftsmen,
gemologists and goldsmiths. The collection
is not available to buy; each piece was created
for exhibition only. It is an unusual decision.
‘We wanted to do it because we wanted to
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show that we were able to do it – that we have
the art and we have the knowledge to do it,’
Wempe explains.
With two women at the helm who are
producing innovative, adventurous creations
such as Cosmora, Wempe is demonstrating
its commitment to beautiful jewellery. For
a brand primarily known for its expertise
with watches, this has been no mean feat.
As By Kim continues to be admired as
one of Europe’s premier jewellery brands,
Wempe is proving to be not only one of the
most committed but also one of the most
exciting jewellery companies in the world
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globalblue.com
TABLE TALKHamburg’s restaurants have a long tradition of featuring excellent fsh and exotic ingredients, thanks to the city’s location and role as a major trading centre. Isabella Redmond
Styles samples the delights
Thanks to its riverside location and the short distance to the coast, Hamburg has long been associated with great fsh and seafood. As a major trading centre, for centuries the city has had a constant supply of exotic and expensive ingredients, resulting in cuisine that stands out from other German cities. Whether served fresh or fried, herring is an intrinsic part of Hamburg’s trading history and is a plentiful North Sea catch that can be found on menus throughout the city. As can the traditional and modest Aalsuppe, a stew of vegetables, herbs, dumplings and eel or monkfsh. Not surprisingly, there is no shortage of seafood restaurants here. The simplicity of Das Seepferdchen, set on the banks of the Elbe, makes this restaurant one of the best choices. By contrast, two-Michelin-star Haerlin ofers a very sophisticated menu; it celebrates the region’s favours and also combines them with international ingredients in playful and imaginative ways. Au Quai presents impressive waterfront views and a great choice of seafood. Meanwhile, for modern fusion food and a striking, urban-chic setting make tracks to Eisenstein in the Altona neighbourhood.
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E I S E N S T E I N
Hamburg’s stylish crowd focks to this striking restaurant located in the Altona district. Housed in a converted factory complete with exposed brick and huge windows, it ofers an industrially chic dining setting. The menu presents an adventurous mix of German, Italian and Mediterranean fusion food. Try starters such as fried mackerel with panzanella or smoked duck with lentils and orange, and then choose from an imaginative range of mains, which might include supremely comforting safron risotto with wild prawns, or rigatoni trapanese with sausage, feta and basil. The pizza, fresh from Eisenstein’s wood-fred oven, is some of the best in town. Favourites include Bon Bonito with a combination of spicy tomato sauce, Sicilian vine tomatoes, wild garlic pesto and raw yellowfn tuna. Eisenstein, Friedensallee 9, 20357 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 390 4606, restaurant-eisenstein.de
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H A E R L I N
With two Michelin stars and numerous other awards, Haerlin has a reputation for gastronomic excellence that extends well beyond Hamburg. In the elegant dining room, guests sample the innovative and perfectly executed menu of executive chef Christoph Rüfer and his team to a backdrop of Chinese silk tapestries and beautiful fower arrangements. Starters such as duck liver and crayfsh are followed by the likes of Norwegian lobster with yellow beetroot, passion fruit and tonka bean, and oxtail with smoked potato mash, Périgord trufe and lemon. For a special event, book the Haerlin Salon for an intimate dinner or the chef’s table to watch some gourmet wizardry in action. Haerlin, Neuer Jungfernstieg 9, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3494 3310, restaurant-haerlin.de
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D A S S E E P F E R D C H E N
Its name means seahorse and its location is on the Elbmeile waterfront just around the corner from Hamburg’s fsh market, so it might not come as a surprise that Das Seepferdchen has a menu that highlights seafood. The restaurant is situated in a former warehouse that was part of the old fsh market and it has a bright, informal interior with driftwood details. During the summer months, there are few nicer places in the city to enjoy an aperitif than the restaurant’s harbourside terrace. After drinks on the waterfront, take your pick of the menu, which focuses on local produce and Hamburg specialities as well as ofering appealing meat options such as carpaccio with parmesan, or rump steak. Seafood features as catch of the day, with favourites of lobster and grilled tiger prawns showcasing the freshness and quality of ingredients that Das Seepferdchen uses. Das Seepferdchen, Grosse Elbstrasse 212, 22767 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3861 6749,das-seepferdchen.de
A U Q U A I
You’re unlikely to fnd a better dinnertime view than the one from the terrace at Au Quai. The waterfront restaurant is beautifully located and has a stylish outdoor terrace that in summer is a big draw for the fashion crowd. Head chef Lukas Ben Schröder whips up an impressive array of Mediterranean-infuenced dishes. Using regional and organic produce, he produces seafood creations such as tuna steak with cashew crust, and excellent bouillabaisse. The menu’s meaty mains range from beef roulade and saddle of venison to duck. Leave room for dessert; the choice includes a delicious variety of seasonal sorbets. Or opt for the impressive French cheese board. Au Quai, Grosse Elbstrasse 145, 22767 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3803 7730, au-quai.de
SHOPPING IS 19% BETTER WHEN YOU DO IT TAX FREE.
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SHOP | 73
GUIDE
Above: Hamburg has more canals than Venice and Amsterdam combined
Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Hamburg with
a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the fnest sweet treats to the
coolest concept stores. Start with SHOP’s highlights before delving deeper
with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints
and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/hamburg.
PH
OTO
: ME
DIA
SE
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MB
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G.D
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A GLIMPSE OF HAMBURG
74 | GU I DE
1 Chanel
Discover Chanel’s new
bigger and better premises
in Bürgermeisterhaus.
Chanel,
Neuer Wall 75,
20354 Hamburg,
+49 (0)40 5003 9190,
chanel.com
* featured on page 40
2 Giorgio Armani
Check out the new Giorgio
Armani store, stocking the
exclusive Luxury White capsule
collection, on fashionable
Neuer Wall.
Giorgio Armani,
Neuer Wall 69,
20354 Hamburg,
+49 (0)40 3099 78530,
armani.com
* featured on page 41
3 Mulberry
Find a new favourite handbag
at British brand Mulberry’s new
boutique, where the décor and
design takes inspiration from
the English countryside.
Mulberrry,
Neuer Wall 69,
20354 Hamburg,
+49 (0)40 5544 4620,
mulberry.com
* featured on page 43
4 Bulgari
Channel the screen sirens
of the 1950s and 60s in
Bulgari’s jawdropping Diva
fine jewellery collection.
Bulgari,
Neuer Wall 24,
20354 Hamburg,
+49 (0)40 3751 7351,
bulgari.com
* featured on page 32
SHOP HIGHLIGHTS
HAMBURG
Place Of Interest U-Bahn HotelTrain Station
Tourist Information
H
ÜTTEN
VENUSBERG
FLOR A-NEUMANN-STR .
VORWERKSTR.
BÖHMKENSTR.
EICHHOLZ
K ARPFANGERSTR.
SEILERSTR ASSE
AN
NEN
STR.
K ASTANIENA LLEE
SPIELBUDENPL ATZ
ST
ER
NS
TR
AS
SE
MARKTSTRASSE
D
ITMAR-KOEL-STR.
BERNHARD-NOCHT-STR.
SIMON-VON-UTRECHT-STR.
PAUL-ROOSEN-STR.
HE
IN-H
OY
ER
-ST
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W
OH
LWIL
LS
TR
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REEPERBAHN
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ALLEE
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ATUSPO
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RS
TR
AS
SE
ALT
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BT
UN
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ST.PAULI HAFENSTR.
VOR SETZEN
JOHANNISBOLLWERK
KA
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ST
RA
SS
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GLACIS
CHA
USSEE
FELDSTRASSE
SIEVEKINGPLATZ
HO
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AP
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TE
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TR
.
MILLERNTORPLATZ LUDWIG-ERH A RD-STR.
FELDSTRASSE(HEILIGENGEISTFELD)
MESSEHALLEN
LANDUNGSBRÜCKEN
ST. PAULI
East Hotel
RiversideHotel
Hotel HafenHamburg
LindnerHotel
NH Hamburg Cit y
Arcotel Ony x
MICHAELIS CHURCH
SHOP | 75
globalblue.com
DAMMTORWALL
ALTER STEINWEG
L LIL
IEN
STRAßE.
G
RIMM
KEHRWI EDER
ALTER WANDR AHM
AM K AISERK AI
BUGENHAGENS TR .
HO
NG
KO
NG
ST
R.
WA
RB
UR
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TR
.
HO
LZD
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ERNST-MERCK-STR .
K AT HARINENSTR.
KOREASTRASSE
DREHBAHN
FERDIN
ANDSTR .
R
ABOISEN
ALT STÄDTER STR .
AM
SA
ND
TOR
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SH
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AIA
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SPITALERSTR .
VERSMANNSTR.
LOHSEPLATZ
NIEDERNSTR .
SCHA ARTOR
MICHAELISSTR .
AN DER ALSTER
ED M UND-SIEMERS-ALLEE KENN EDYBRÜCKE
N
EUER WALL
WEXSTR ASSE
RÖ
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BALLIN
DAMM
K A JEN
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JUN
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AC
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MÖNCKEBERG STR ASSE
KAISER-WILHELM
-STRASSE
STEINSTR ASSE
G
ORCH-FOCK-WALL ESPLANADE
LOMBARDSBRÜCKE
GLOCKENGIESSERWALL
ST
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TO
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AL
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AM SANDTORK AI
BROOKTORKAI
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NESS HOPFENSACK P U MPEN
HAMBURGMAIN STATION
GÄNSEMARKT
STEPHANSPLATZ(OPER/CCH)
JUNGFERNSTIEG
MÖNCKEBERGSTR.
RATHAUS
RÖDINGSMARKT
BAUMWALL
MESSBERG
STEINSTR.
HBF. NORD
STADTHAUSBRÜCKE
Madison Hotel
Radisson BluHotel
Grand Elysée
HotelAlster Hof
Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten
Marriot
Steigenberger
Park Hyat
InterCit yHotel
Ibis Hotel
Hotel AtlanticKempinski
Sofitel
Renaissance Hamburg
Hotel Barcelo Hamburg
ELBPHILHARMONIE
TOWN HALL
HAMBURG STOCK EXCHANGE
WAREHOUSE DISTRICT
KUNSTHALLE(ART GALLERY)
1
3
4
2
page
76
page
77
page
78
page
79
page
80
76 | GUIDE
Neue-ABC Strasse, ABC-Strasse & Gänsemarkt
B
ÜS
CH
ST
R.
DREHBAHN
GROSSE THEATERSTR.
NE
UE
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GÄNSEMARKT
CA
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AC
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● ULI SCHNEIDER
● STRENESSE
● KOKO VON KNEBEL
● UNÜTZER SPORTM
ODEN
● POLO
COUTURE & CHEAP ●
FRANK RUDOLF ●
NIESSING ●
REPLAY ●
● D
ER
EN
BA
CH
WA
LTR
AU
D●
BE
TH
GE
PA
PIE
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● B
CB
GM
AX
AZ
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● M
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GA
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INI
● JUWELIER BECKER● THOMAS I-PUNKT
● POLO SYLT● TATE
● OSKA HAMBURG
GÄNSEMARKT
ANNETTE GÖRTZ ●
THE ABC SHOP ●
Gänsemarkt Passage
● O
PTIK
ER S
ALM
EN
● J
UW
ELIE
R Z
ERO
● U
RBA
N O
UTF
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RS
● S
UPERDRY
SELECTED STORES IN
GÄNSEMARKT PASSAGE:
BUTLERSDIVA TRAUMKLEIDERELB HAMBURGGÄNSEMARKT PARFÜMERIEGÖRTZ 17JUN GUYS & DOLLSLABEL & TRENDSLES PETITSMAISON DE PARISMERCEDEH-SHOESPANDORAQUARTIER 50SIGNUM STOREUHRZEIT.ORG
Gerhofstrasse & Hohe Bleichen
DREHBAHN
B
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CH
ST
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KA
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HO
F
GROSSE THEATERSTR.
NE
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GÄNSEMARKT
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HO
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● GOLDENE ZEITENMONSOON/● ACCESSORIZE● KAREN MILLEN● MARC O’POLO● BENETTON● THE BODY SHOP● EYECATCHER
GÄNSEMARKT
MEXX ●
HALLHUBER ●
ESPRIT ●
APROPOS THECONCEPT STORE ●
● GOSCHE SPECTATOR
ARGENTUM E K ●
● ETRO
NEUER WALL ●PRADA ●
DIBBERN ●LUDWIG REITER ●
LINETTE ●WOOLRICH ●
PAUL SMITH ●BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ●
PETRA TEUFEL ●
● HACKETT
● FLAMANT
● PATIO ANTIQUES
Non-Global Blue RetailerGlobal Blue Retailer Shopping Centre U-Bahn
P.42
SHOP | 77
ALTER STEINWEG
D
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NS
TRASSE
BL
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NB
RÜ
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PO
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ST
RA
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HO
HE
BL
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N
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AD
TH
AU
SB
RÜ
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E
NEUER WALL
GROSSE B
LEICHEN
●
THALIA-
●
BUCHHANDLUNG
HARALD LUBNER
● ●
ULI KNECHT
APOTHEKE GROSSE BLEICHEN
●
●
BUTLERS
● HAUS HAM
BURG
CRABTREE & EVELYN
JO MALONE BY HAMBURGER
HOF PARFÜMERIE ●JUWELIER HANSEN ●
BASLER ●GOLFINO ●
MEPHISTO ●1,2,3 ●
MODEHAUS A STEEN ●
BUBA SCHUH ●
Bleichenhof
Hanse Viertel
TORQUATO ● Galleria
Kaisergalerie
Kaufmannshaus
BUCKLES & BELTS ●
● BÄR-BEQUEMSCHUHE
● GÄRTNER
Grosse Bleichen
globalblue.com
BUCHERER
Heritage watchmaker H Moser &
Cie and fne jeweller Bucherer have
a lot in common. These independent
companies from German-speaking
areas of Switzerland were founded in
the 19th century and so it is natural that
they are long-time collaborators. Their
most recent project – an addition to the
existing Venturer line – is the Venturer
Small Seconds Bucherer Edition. In white
gold and with a 1960s convex design,
the watch is inspired by H Moser & Cie’s
historic pocket watches. Be sure to seek
out this watch while in Hamburg, as it is
exclusively available in Bucherer boutiques
in Germany, Switzerland and Austria.
Bucherer, Jungfernstieg 25,
20354 Hamburg,
+49 (0)40 343467,
bucherer.com
* for map go to page 78
SELECTED STORES IN
BLEICHENHOF:
CHARLOTTE HHFLECKMODELLHÜTE MONIKA STORE 4 KIDSWOHNGEFÜHL
SELECTED STORES IN
HANSE VIERTEL:
BARBOURBREECHEZ ELLESDELSEYDOUGLASEINS ZWEI DREIGRAF COXGÖRTZHANSE HAUS HAMBURG CLASSICSJACQUES BRITTKIRCHHOFF DONNAKIRCHHOFF ESTABLISHED
KONPLOTTLACOSTELA MODALEYSIEFFERMOOTZNOMINATION OPTIKER CARLPANDORAROECKL SAHLING-BEST OF BEAUTYSANSIBARSCHACHT & WESTERICHTABACALERA HANSEATICATOTTVEGASWMF
78 | GUIDE
PO
ST
ST
RA
SS
E
A
LSTERARKADEN
GROSSE BLEIC
HEN
JUN
GFER
NS
TIEG
B
ALLIN
DA
MM
ABC-STR AS
SE
GÄNSEMA
R
KT
HEMDENSPEZI ●MEISSEN ●
CROCS ●GODIVA CHOCOLATIER ●
OREA LINGERIE ●ALSTERARKADEN APOTHEKE ●
BERNSTEINLADEN WALTER WITZKI ●
HERMANN STEGMANN ●DOUGLAS ●
LANGHAGEN & HARNISCH ●ALLIGATOR LEDERWAREN ●
SCHUHKAY ●VERO MODA ●
JEAND HEUR EMIL ●AUST DRESS ●
CIRO ●SCHUHHAUS PRANGE ●
LIU JO ●CHOPARD ●
RENÉ LEZARD ●
BUCHERER ●
ROBBE &BERKING ●
DONNA ●
APPLE ●SALAMANDER ●
WEMPE ●LLOYD ●
TEE GSCHWENDNER ●
● ROTH’S ALTE ENGLISH APOTHEKE● AMERICAN APPAREL
● OPTIKER BODE● NIVEA HAUS
Hamburger Hof
Alsterhaus
Jungfernstieg & Alsterarkaden
SELECTED STORES IN
ALSTERHAUS:
1,2,3BREEBRIGITTE VON BOCHEYECATCHERH&MHUGO BOSSKARSTADTLONGCHAMPM NIEMYEROSCHÄTZCHEN IM ALSTERHAUS
SELECTED STORES IN
HAMBURGER HOF:
BREUNING TRAURINGLOUNGEFIL A FILDANIELS & KORFFGERRY WEBERGÖRTZ 17HAMBURGER HOF PARFÜMERIEKLOCKMANNLEVI’SPETITE POUPETTESHOWROOM HAMBURGSTARLIGHT FEINE DAMENWÄSCHETABACALERA HANSEATICATITAN REISEGEPÄCKTORQUATO
Neuer Wall
Non-Global Blue RetailerGlobal Blue Retailer Shopping Centre Department Store
Restaurant
M
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KEDA
MM
AMELUNGSTR.
A
LTERWALL
SCHAUENBURGERSTR.
PE
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NEUER WALL
NEUER W
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BE
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● D
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● D
EMA
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● FREY
WILLE
● M
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● LA
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● CA
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● TU
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WELIER &
GO
LDSCH
MIED
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AD
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● CA
LIDA / ETERNA / PA
LMERS LEJA
BY
● TIFFA
NY
& CO
● CO
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● ZA
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● H
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● M
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● M
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● U
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● A
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● LAU
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● TO
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● SA
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● LA
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● JIL SA
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● K
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● W
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● M
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● VA
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● JU
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● PO
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● A
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● BA
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● FA
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● STEFA
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● LACO
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● STEIN
BRÜCK PELZE
● M
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● G
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● CH
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● B+A+C M
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GEO
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THO
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●
GÖ
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NESPRESSO
●
CAM
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LON
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BRA
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FELD & G
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PRA
DA ●
MAC ●
& O
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MO
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CARTIER ●
BULG
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W W
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BUDA
PESTER SCHU
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MICH
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GU
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MA
SSIMO
DU
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HERM
ÈS ●
JUW
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SEN ●
BURBERRY
●
CRAVATTERIE ●
EWIG
E LAM
PE ●
ERMEN
EGILD
O ZEG
NA ●
LORO
PIAN
A ●
MIEN
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LA PERLA ●
LIZ MA
LRAU
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SØR 47 ●
MA
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HA
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LIGN
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ST. EMILE ●
DO
LCE &
GA
BAN
NA ●
GA
NT ●
BRION
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POSTER ●GALERIE
● BUTIK
● BOGNER
● JOHN RIB
BE
CLOSED ●
● CHRIST
POR
SCHE D
ESIGN
STOR
E ●
PEUTEREY
●
P.77
P.43
P.98
P.42
P.32
P.P. 4340
P.41
SHOP | 79
Poststrasse
AMELUNGSTR.
NE
UE
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UN
GF
ER
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TIE
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BÜ
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TR
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ST
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N
EUER WALL
BL
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● DIESEL
● TOMMY HILFIGER
● GÖRTZ 17
● H&M
● CAMPER
● ZARA
● PORSCHE DESIGN● PEUTEREY
● SAHLING
● BOSS
PEAK PERFORMANCE ●
CLOSED ●TIMBERLAND ●
KONPLOTT ●COMMA ●
STEFANEL ●TOM TAILOR ●
FLORENCEMODA ●
PUMA ●
A FELDENKIRCHEN ●
ES
PR
IT ●
A F
EL
DE
NK
IRC
HE
N ●
BE
LLY
BU
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ON
●U
MA
NI ●
● TOMMY HILFIGER ● ABERCROMBIE & FITCH
STUART WEITZMANN ●
QUALITY TIME
Porsche Design embarks on a new chapter
with the launch of its frst timepieces
developed completely in house. The brand
has had a horological department since 1972,
but until now pieces have been created in
collaboration with renowned watchmakers.
The new models, the Chronograph Titanium
Limited Edition and the Timepiece No1,
are designed using the same principles that
Professor Ferdinand Alexander Porsche
applied to the very frst Porsche Design
watch: optimal readability, technical
perfection, high-quality materials and true
functionality. Limited to 500 pieces each,
these striking matte black watches are sure
to become collector’s items. hl
Porsche Design,
Poststrasse 2-4, 20354 Hamburg,
+49 (0)40 3344 1941, porsche-design.com
80 | GUIDE
GROSSE REICHENSTR .
PUMPEN
BRANDSENDE
KURZE MÜHRAN
BUGENHAGENSTR .
NIEDERNSTR .
BURCHARDSTR.
LILI
EN
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● BUDNIKOWSKY IWAN
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E
HERRENAUSSTATTERBRAUN ●
HAGEL THE HAIRCOMPANY ●
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APRIORIBIBAPANDORATABAKBÖRSE IM KAUFHOF
SELECTED STORES IN
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MÄRKLINMASSIMO DUTTIPRINCESSE TAM TAMSAHLING-BEST OF BEAUTYSTEIFF GALERIESTRACOLANDSWAROVSKITOWN HOUSE
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GAMESTOPGÖRTZH&MHALLHUBERHANDELSHAUS LÄGELHÖGL SHOE FASHIONHOLLISTERIDEE CREATIVMARKTINFLAGRANTEJACKPOTKULTL’OCCITANEMONSOON / ACCESSORIZEMORE & MOREOAKLEY ODLOONE GREEN ELEPHANTPANDORA
PAPETERIE BATHELTPILGRIMSIERCKE SCHMUCKSTREET ONESTREET SUPER SHOESTALLY WEIJLTAMARISTCHIBOTETHALIATHE HAIR COMPANYTHEO WORMLANDTOM TAILORTOMMY CRYSTALTOMMY HILFIGER DENIMWMFZERO
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Non-Global Blue RetailerGlobal Blue Retailer Shopping Centre Department Store
Designer Outlet
Neumünster,
Oderstrasse 10,
24539 Neumünster,
+49 (0)4321 558 6880,
mcarthurglen.com
Opening times
Monday-Saturday:
10am-8pm
Sunday and public
holidays: closed
DESIGNER OUTLET NEUMÜNSTER
HOW TO GET THERE
By car
From Hamburg: head
north on the A7. Take
exit 15 for Neumünster
Süd and continue on the
B205, following the signs
for Designer Outlet.
From Neumünster:
follow Altonaer Strasse
(K16), turn left on to
Oderstrasse and follow
the signs directing you
to the front entrance.
By bus
From Neumünster: take
the 7 or 77, which leave
from in front of the
railway station.
By train
From Hamburg:
take the RE21020
to Neumünster.
From Kiel: take
the RE21023
to Neumünster.
By taxi
The journey takes
approximately 40
minutes from Hamburg,
Lübeck and Kiel.
PERFECT DAY
10am
Start the day at Gant
Footwear where
American sportswear
heritage and European
style combine to
create a casual
lifestyle collection.
2pm
Adventurous types will
love the collection of
mountain-ready outfts
on ofer at sportswear
boutique Napapijri.
4pm
Find the perfect
fnishing touches at
Falke’s outlet store,
which ofers everything
from men’s socks to
women’s hosiery.
6pm
7 For All Mankind’s
range of premium
denim provides the
perfect ft, and there’s
a complementary
selection of footwear,
bags and casualwear.
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12pm
Take time out with a cup
of Schärf cofee and a
snack at Tackmann’s
Cofee House.
GUIDE | 81
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TRANSLATIONS
РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД
44: Creative Quarters
Адрес креатива
модные заведения.Чтобы попасть в район Sternschanze,
нужно двигаться к северо-западу от центра города. В 1980-е в нем сосредоточились многочисленные независимые бутики, поп-ап магазины, модные бары и рестораны. Постепенно он превратился в очень живой, активный и продвинутый квартал, чем начал привлекать самых креативных людей Гамбурга.
Среди таких творчески настроенных обитателей Sternschanze оказались и Анжелика Шульц и Петер Фриз. В 2000 году они вернулись в Гамбург из продолжительного путешествия по Азии и открыли один из самых интересных магазинов в этой местности под названием Mala. На его прилавках представлены
Шоппинг-индустрия Гамбурга переживает культурное возрождение: в кварталах на северо-западе города открываются новые независимые бутики, модные рестораны и культовые бренды, - рассказывает Хамиш Монк.
С начала 19 века Гамбург был центром развития европейской промышленности. Со временем город разрастался и вскоре превратился во второй по значимости порт на континенте, став для Германии воротами во внешний мир. Культурному перерождению города способствует превращение двух его районов, Sternschanze и Karoviertel, в интересное шоппинг-направление. В них открываются независимые магазины, богемные бары и
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привезенные отовсюду ювелирные украшения, домашняя одежда и аксессуары. И его атмосфера весьма характерна для этой части города.
«15 лет назад, когда мы открывали магазин, в Sternschanze приезжали люди без денег - рабочие, студенты и художники», - делится Фриз. Прошли годы – и район превратился в креативный и культурный ориентир: «Sternschanze представляет собой восхитительную смесь городских культур, - продолжает он. – Вечеринки, прекрасная еда, достопримечательности - здесь есть всего понемногу».
Еще одно востребованное заведение в Sternschanze - это кафе Altes Mädchen. Оно получило свое название, которое в переводе означает «Милая моя девочка», в часть посвященной Гамбургу песни в исполнении звезды 1950-х Фредди Куинна. Несмотря на некоторую старомодность, Altes Mädchen по праву возглавляет местную индустрию крафтового пива, активно развивающуюся в Германии.
Друзья и соседи Оливер Нордманн и Патрик Рутер выбрали для своего заведения колоритное место в отреставрированном зале рынка Schanzenhöfe. Они хотят сделать пиво основой современной немецкой гастрономии. «Мы открыли Altes Mädchen в марте 2013, и Schanzenhöfe оказался идеальным местом, поскольку находится в очень старом квартале, - вспоминает заместитель руководителя Тина Кюстер. – Пять лет назад мы открыли неподалеку свой первый ресторан Bullerei. И поскольку совсем рядом находится наша пивоварня Ratsherrn, в выборе места для пивного заведения у нас не было сомнений».
По словам Кюстер, немаловажную роль сыграла и эклектичная атмосфера, царящая в этой части города: «В очаровательном Sternschanze встречаются самые разные люди и культуры, магазины и рестораны. Всякий раз, прогуливаясь по улицам, вы обнаруживаете нечто новое, и каждый уголок может в любой момент преобразиться».
К востоку от Sternschanze находится Karoviertel, небольшой спальный район,
каких много в Германии. Однако в последнее время там тоже поселился креативный дух, подпитываемый гамбургской культурной жизнью. äдобно расположившись между городским центром и гамбургской ярмаркой, эта часть города сохранила свой собственный сельский колорит. Местные жители ласково называют свою местность «Каро», и буквально на их глазах здесь вырастают стильные ателье и бутики готовой одежды, принося району славу самого стильного в городе.
Самый известный бутик в этой части города называется Garment. Его основали швея Катрин Мюллер и костюмер äллинка Шредер, учившиеся вместе в академии моды и дизайна Гамбурга AMD. Выбор на Karoviertel пал сам собой: «Здесь такая креативная, расслабленная, живая и открытая атмосфера, - делится Шредер. – Karoviertel считается маленьким и уютным. Действительно, он не такой многолюдный, как Sternschanze, но и тихим его назвать нельзя. Здесь много уникальных магазинов одежды, причем большинством из них управляют сами дизайнеры». Хороший пример – бутик Garment: на его витринах вы найдете мужскую и женскую одежду классического кроя с яркими и современными принтами.
Тема сочетания старого и нового характерна для Karoviertel. Новые проекты, появляющиеся на фоне исторической архитектуры, привносят дух современности и укрепляют модный статус Karo. В последнее время здесь поселились разнообразные современные бренды, такие как Herr Von Eden или культовая американская марка American Apparel.
Неповторимая атмосфера креативности Sternschanze и Karoviertel в сочетании с их старомодным шармом превращают Гамбург в новый богемный центр Германии. Он перерос свой прежний статус связующего звена между Германией и внешним миром – и теперь однозначно достоин особого внимания.malashop.com, altes-maedchen.com, garment-online.de
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дизайнеров и поклонников моды, но теперь эта «обычность» - последнее слово в стиле.
С 2014 года модный мир обсуждает новый тренд – нормкор (normcore). Этим неоднозначным термином называют особую манеру одеваться расслабленно, целенаправленно избегая громких модных имен. Впервые такое название употребило нью-йоркское агентство прогнозирования K-Hole: «Нормкор сосредоточен на поиске свободы, которую дает подчеркнутая обыденность. Когда нет необходимости быть особенным, приходит раскрепощение. А вместе с ним – ощущение причастности к миру людей. Поэтому нормкор – это верный путь к мирной жизни».
На авансцену выходит более практичный и менее броский образ. Модная индустрия с удовольствием приняла нормкор, который обозначил новый стиль – преднамеренно простой, с небольшим количеством украшений и особым вниманием к комфорту. То есть тот самый стиль, в котором истинными экспертами остаются немецкие бренды, от Adidas до Hugo Boss.
Во время показов коллекции весна/лето 2015 в первых рядах заметно не хватало привычного блеска. Даже отъявленные модники и звезды стрит-стайла, стекавшиеся к входам в залы, предпочли простоту, удобство и изысканность. Можно предположить, что они транслировали одну и ту же ключевую идею: истинный стиль не нуждается в активной демонстрации. Спокойной уравновешенности в простом, но тщательно подобранном комплекте вполне достаточно, чтобы подтвердить умение одеваться со вкусом.
В весенне-летних коллекциях дизайнеров от Нью-Йорка до Парижа можно обнаружить развитие этой темы: в центре внимание женственная и вместе с тем практичная манера. Туфли без каблуков, юбки средней длины, свободные брюки и мягкие силуэты появились во всех без исключения показах. Так, спортивные элементы с легкостью придавали изысканным комплектам ощущение легкой небрежности.
52: The New Normal
Новые нормальные
Коллекции весна/лето 2015 демонстрируют новую любовь модного мира к простой и функциональной роскоши, которую многие годы продвигают немецкие бренды, - рассказывает Гвинет Холланд
Внимание модного мира постепенно смещается от индивидуалистского гардероба-заявления к более спокойному, простому, даже «обычному» образу. Еще несколько лет назад такой эпитет напугал бы
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Немецкая компания Wempe, производитель роскошных ювелирных украшений и часов, представляет новую коллекцию под лейблом By Kim. Руарид Притчард встретился с владелицей Wempe Ким-Евой Вемпе и креативным директором Катериной Плучард
Роскошные бренды нечасто делают значительные заявления под влиянием модных трендов, а не продаж. Но именно так поступает немецкая компания Wempe – эксперт в часовом и ювелирном деле. Недавно под маркой By Kim вышла новая коллекция Cosmora, которая выводит бесспорное качество и профессионализм Wempe на острие моды и стиля.
60: Diamond Duo
Бриллиантовый Дуэт
Знаменитый парижский бренд Céline также внес свой вклад в развитие норм-элегантности с помощью обманчиво простых (и невероятно востребованных) вещей дизайнера Фиби Фило. «Я надеюсь, что надевая одежду Céline, женщины чувствуют уверенность и силу… Мне совершенно неважно, как они одеваются, пока она делает это для себя», - поделилась с аудиторий Фило во время Vogue Festival в Лондоне.Подобная тонкая уравновешенность находит отклик в сердцах поклонников моды. Умеренность в духе Céline пришлась по вкусу многим дизайнерам и снискала популярность среди брендов доступного ценового сегмента. Так, например, на рейлах магазинов Zara и Cos преобладает сдержанная цветовая палитра черного, белого, синего и коричневого.
Вместе с тем свой модный статус восстанавливает и нестареющая классика, например, тренчи, бретонские топы и ботинки с шнуровкой. Ведь теперь женщины вновь выбирают одежду для собственного удовольствия, а не в погоне за трендами. В результате, на модную арену вернулись джинсы и кроссовки (да и вообще обувь на плоской подошве). Лаконичные черные брюки и джинсовая куртка также перешли в разряд обязательных для гардероба, учитывая их бесконечные вариации в сочетаниях.
Представители высокой моды выражают свое почтение к нормкору через мягкие силуэты, красивые ткани, удобный и функциональный крой. Сочетание комфорта и высшего проявления стиля давно оценили по достоинству ведущие немецкие марки: достаточно упомянуть, например, элегантную практичность Strenesse и подчеркнутую лаконичность Escada.
éренд Jil Sander всегда отстаивал принципы той минималистской и продуманной роскоши, которая сейчас доминирует в модной сфере. Итальянский дизайнер Родольфо Пальялунга, занявший пост креативного директора Jil Sander после работы в Vionnet, тонко улавливает связь
между фирменной спокойной роскошью бренда и трендами весны/лета 2015. Под воздействием андрогинного образа швейцарской писательницы и фотографа 1930-х Аннемари Шварценбах, в новой коллекции появились темно-коричневые кожаные юбки и шорты, мягкие сиреневые и светло-синие рубашки, а также аккуратные короткие жакеты из хлопка и вязаные вещи.
Дизайнер Джейсон Ву создал исключительно практичную коллекцию, для которой характерны угловатые узоры и палитра черного, белого, синего и темно-серого оттенков. В результате, минималистские костюмы, лаконичные платья-рубашки, однотонные блузки с короткими рукавами и сандалии без каблуков в своей непритязательной уравновешенности великолепно иллюстрируют принципы новой норм-роскоши.
Подобное стильное спокойствие немецкие марки демонстрируют не только на подиумах. Кроссовки Puma и Adidas можно увидеть на ногах трендсеттеров всего мира, а неброские аксессуары Bree украшают руки во всем мире. Создается ощущение, что фирменный немецкий стиль теперь стал тем самым новым нормальным.
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которых есть опыт не только их создания, но и ношения, проявляется определенная прозорливость и единодушие».
Обе женщины гордятся тем, что знают потребности своих клиенток, ведь именно это понимание и привело их к созданию серии By Kim. «Команда изначально была исключительно женская. Мы путешествовали по ювелирным выставкам, в том числе дважды в год ездили в Париж за украшениями, прежде чем приступили к собственным коллекциям, - объясняет Вемпе. – Нам попадались американские покупатели, исключительно мужчины, они пристально рассматривали кольца, но интересовались только ценой, каратами, маржой и оборотом. Для нас же цена всегда была на последнем месте. Сначала мы примеряли украшение, брали его в руки, старались понять, каково будет его носить, - и только потом задавались вопросом о цене».
Поэтому в центре внимания By Kim ощущение, которое дарит украшение. «Поскольку мы – женская команда, то решили подойти к вопросу с другой точки зрения. Вероятно, из-за этого мы стали более критично относиться ко всему. Мы понимали, чего мы, женщины, хотим, но нигде не могли найти этого», - вспоминает Вемпе. Будучи покупательницами украшений, Вемпе и Плучард твердо знали: они должны не только хорошо выглядеть, но и быть удобными в использовании, приятными для прикосновений. «Мужчины редко размышляют в этом ключе, - объясняет Плучард. – Прежде чем соблазнятся глаза, украшение нужно попробовать телом – на уровне ощущений и удовольствия от ношения. На самом деле, именно это – самое важное».
Неподражаемый уровень мастерства убедил Катерину Плучард, французско-итальянского дизайнера и ювелира, стать частью Wempe: «Когда мы познакомились, Катерина сказала: «Есть одна проблема – ведь это немецкая компания». Разумеется, как дизайнер с французскими и итальянскими корнями, при этом работающий на немецкую компанию, она могла бы подумать: «Всем известно,
Wempe работает над лейблом By Kim с 2001 года: такое название он получил в честь владелицы компании Ким-Евы Вемпе, правнучки основателя ювелирного дома Герхарда Вемпе. За прошедшие годы было выпущено восемь серий, которые принесли By Kim славу одного из самых популярных ювелирных брендов Германии.
В ноябре 2014 года Ким-Ева Вемпе и креативный директор марки Катерина Плучард представили выставочную коллекцию Cosmora. Она состоит из 12 колец, каждое из которых посвящено крупному городу мира, и знаменует новый этап в истории 138-летней компании, которой руководят две поистине бесстрашные и неравнодушные женщины.
Вемпе и Плучард осознают важность женского управления ювелирным брендом: «Для меня сотрудничество с Wempe близко к идеалу, поскольку компанией управляет женщина, - комментирует Плучард. – Я люблю повторять, что готовить лучше всего немного голодным. Когда над ювелирными украшениями работают женщины, у
89
82 : When You Shop The World,
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как немцы делают машины. Но могут ли они создавать и ювелирные украшения?» – объясняет Вемпе. – Затем Катерина отправилась в ателье в Швебиш-Гмюнд знакомиться с нашими ювелирами. После чего сказала нам «да», поскольку своими глазами увидела: мы всегда знали, что делаем. Я с удовольствием думаю, что это как раз случай пересечения искусства и знаний. Тем более что Катерина утверждает, что никогда не встречала подобного качества в Италии или Франции».
С тех пор под маркой By Kim вышло восемь коллекций. Первая из них, Sensual, состояла из подвесок и колец оригинальных форм. Причем перстни особым образом изогнуты, за счет чего воспроизводятся особенные ощущения при ношении. Кольца еще одной коллекции Helioro выглядят совсем иначе – они образованы из девяти переплетенных золотых нитей.
И вот теперь выходит Cosmora. Каждый из 12 перстней посвящен определенному городу мира и повествует его историю. Центральный парк в Нью-Йорке, Эйфелева башня в Париже, золотой климтовский купол Сецессиона в Вене – вы не найдете ни одного повторяющегося сюжета. «Каждое кольцо красиво, более того, они весьма художественны и предлагают историю каждого места. Через них мы с Катериной поделились собственными впечатлениями о каждом городе», - комментирует Вемпе.
В некоторых перстнях содержится более 200 драгоценных камней. И каждое из них профессиональные мастера, камнерезы и ювелиры в мастерской Wempe прорабатывали вручную. Коллекция не продается: кольца созданы только для осмотра в рамках выставки. Столь необычное решение Вемпе объясняет так: «Мы хотели продемонстрировать, что мы вообще можем создавать. Мы владеем теорией искусства и знаниями, как его воплотить».
Эти две женщины у руля Wempe способны принимать смелые и инновационные решения, и Cosmora – отличный тому пример. Вместе тем, им удалось продемонстрировать преданность
компании прекрасному ювелирному искусству. И это значительный подвиг, учитывая, что Wempe известен, в первую очередь, в роли эксперта часового дела. А By Kim продолжает завоевывать все новых поклонников в качестве востребованного в Европе ювелирных брендов. Тем самым, и Wempe расширяет свою сферу влияния, превращаясь в одну из самых интересных ювелирных компаний в мире. wempe.com
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美文翻译
44: Creative Quarters
创意街区
汉堡的商业区正经历一场文化复兴，西北部城
区迎来了一批独立店铺、前卫餐馆与另类国际品
牌，Hamish Monk报道
自19世纪初以来，汉堡就一直是欧洲中部产业革命
的源头。随着时间的推移，这座城市已成为欧洲大
陆第二大港口，也被广泛认为是德国通往世界的中
转站。如今，这座商业要塞正历经一场文化复兴，其
中的两片区域尤甚——Sternschanze和
Karoviertel——将成为德国最有趣的购物区，在这
里遍布着独立店铺、波西米亚酒吧与高档餐厅。
Sternschanze位于市中心西北部，并已成为
汉堡最具活力、最前卫的地区之一。自1980年代起
Sternschanze就一直被视为城中创新枢纽，其艺术
氛围今日依旧浓厚，该区的街道间林立着独立精品
店、临时商店、时髦酒吧与餐馆。这里吸引着汉堡最
有创意的人群纷至沓来。
其中两名典型居民是Angelika Schulz与
Peter Freese，他们花费数年在亚洲旅行，并于
2000年回到汉堡开设了Sternschanze最引人入
胜的店铺之一，Mala。贩卖各式进口家居服饰、
珠宝与配饰的Mala非常本地化。“我们15年前开
业，”Freese解释道。“当时居住在Sternschanze的
人们并没有多少钱，都是一些体力劳动者、学生和
艺术家。”自那时起，该区慢慢演变为一座创意与
文化熔炉。“Sternschanze混杂着各种不同都市文
化，”Freese继续说道。“这是个开派对的地方、美食
聚集地，还是观光好去处；总之这里什么都有。”
另一处Sternschanze的热门场所是Altes
Mädchen，城中最流行的餐馆之一。译为“老女
孩”的Altes Mädchen得名于汉堡1950年代歌手
Freddy Quinn的一首歌。虽然名字或与过去有关，
但这家餐厅也是德国新兴的手工啤酒行业的中坚
力量。
由朋友兼邻居Oliver Nordmann与Patrick
Rüther共同成立的 Altes Mädchen，位于修葺一
新的Schanzenhöfe市场大厅，致力于将啤酒重新带
回当代德国美食的核心。“我们于2013年3月开始经
营Altes Mädchen，Schanzenhöfe是绝佳选址，”
助理经理Tina Küster表示。“这个区域历史悠久。
五年前我们在这里开设了首家餐厅，Bullerei，况且
Ratsherrn啤酒厂就在隔壁，我们确信这就是最理
想的地点。”
Küster同时指出，该地区不拘一格的氛围也是
其中一大考量因素：“Sternschanze是汉堡一处非
常可爱、有趣的场所，这里有如此多不同的人群与
文化，不同类型的商店和餐馆。每次你漫步于街道
PH
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HIL
IPP
RA
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52: The New Normal
时尚新常规
2015年春夏，时尚界开始推崇简练的功能性奢
华——一种德国品牌久已熟稔的风格，Gwyneth
Holland指出
时尚风向标正从强调个人主义、表达立场的着装转
向更为安静、简练与“常规”的风格。这是一个多年前
让设计师与时尚爱好者们感到害怕的词——然而如
今“常规”是风尚界的最新潮流。
从2014年起，一股新潮流开始在时尚界躁
动——normcore，一个戏谑的新术语，用来形容
间，都可以找到一些新鲜的东西，每一个转角都是
不同的。”
Sternschanze的东面是Karoviertel，一处较小
的、传统工薪阶层聚集的住宅区，得益于城中持续
的艺术热潮，最近也开始展现出与临近街区相同的
创意精神。位于市中心与汉堡露天市场之间的这片
区域——本地人称为“Karo”——至今仍保留着独
特的乡村氛围。今日，这里聚集着高端定制店与成衣
精品店，使其脱颖而出成为汉堡最时尚的区域。
Karoviertel最引人注目的店铺之一就是
Garment。Kathrin Müller与Ullinca Schröder
这对友人，分别是裁缝与舞台装设计师，他们在汉
堡时尚和设计学院AMD相遇后创立了Garment。
选择在Karoviertel开店是一个相当容易的决
定。“这里有着极具创意、悠闲、活泼与开放的氛
围，”Schröder解释道。“Karoviertel通常被称为小
街区。这里不如Sternschanze那么拥挤，但绝不沉
寂。这里最吸引人的是独树一帜的服装店，其中不
少都是由时装设计师亲自经营的。“Garment是一
个最好的例子，这里贩售忠于经典廓型、但不乏缤纷
摩登的印花设计男装与女装。
旧与新的结合是Karoviertel周而复始的主题。
虽然该地区拥有许多历史悠久的建筑，涌入此处的
新商业为其平添几许摩登，同时进一步巩固了Karo
新近获得的时尚地位。摩登裁缝店Herr Von Eden
与热门美国品牌American Apparel，是该区域最新
开幕店铺中的两间。
创造力和包容的精神在Sternschanze和
Karoviertel同时可见，结合其自身的老城区魅力，
这两个区域正帮助汉堡蓬勃发展为德国的新波西米
亚核心。汉堡一直是德国通往其他地区的要道，然
而随着其全新创意街区的复兴，这座城市已然成为
值得花时间探索、而非简单途经之处。
malashop.com,
altes-maedchen.com,
garment-online.de
那些着重于去繁从简、去商标化的造型。根据这个
词的始作俑者——纽约潮流预测机构K-Hole的解
释，“Normcore追求的是一种并不排他的自由。不
需要刻意追求特别因而获得解放，并且意识到适应
性带来归属感。Normcore是通往更为平静生活的
途径。”
更简单、更实穿、更少炫耀的着装法则如今开始
大行其道。Normcore已被时尚界广泛欣然接受，作
为一种故意从简、去装饰、着重舒适度的风格——
而这正是从Adidas到Hugo Boss等德国品牌最擅
长打造的风格。
在2015年春夏秀场上，前排座位上显而易见
地少了几分喧哗。即便在聚集于秀场周边的时尚弄
潮儿与街拍明星中，最主要的潮流也表现倡导更简
单、舒适与含蓄的美学。他们所传达的信息似乎是
真正时尚的人无需炫耀——那些简单但精心挑选
的单品所传达的安静的自信，就足以展示他们的高
超品味。
这一主题将贯穿整个2015春夏系列，来自纽约
或巴黎的设计师们也开始专攻女性化但实用的着
装。平底鞋、中等长度的裙子、宽大裤子与简洁线条
随处可见，即便是时髦的单品，也可见到几缕街头运
动风影响为其平添休闲感。
享誉国际的巴黎品牌Céline助长了“常规”着
装的势头，从设计师Phoebe Philo的看似简单，但
功能性强大的热门单品中可见一斑。Philo最近在
伦敦的时尚活动“Vogue Festival”上向观众透露，“
我希望身着Céline的女性们感觉自信与强大…只要
女人们是为自己在穿衣服，不论穿什么我都没有意
见。”这份含蓄的自信显然深深引起了时尚爱好者们
的共鸣：Céline式的简练已经影响了不少设计师，
并被高街品牌争相效仿，黑色、白色、海军蓝和棕色
等一系列节制感色彩，主宰着Zara与Cos等品牌店
的陈列架。
随着越来越多的女性通过打扮取悦自己、而非
追逐潮流，风衣、布列塔尼条纹上装与系带鞋等经
典单品，也重新赢回了高端时尚地位。如此一来，
牛仔裤又重新回到了时尚聚光灯下，同时回归的还
有运动鞋——总体来说是平底鞋——层出不穷地
搭配时髦黑长裤或牛仔夹克，让他们变成时尚必备
单品。
高级时尚界对于normcore的解读强调简练线
条、精美面料、实穿性与功能性。主流德国品牌长久
以来深谙将实穿性与高级时装相结合的重要性，这
一点从Strenesse主导的实用优雅，或Escada的大
胆简约，都可以看到。
Jil Sander向来是如今主导时尚界的极简、缜密
奢华阵营的重要成员。如今在创意总监意大利设计
师Rodolfo Paglialunga（Vionnet前创意总监）的
率领下，品牌招牌式的干净、奢华的造型完美捕捉
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60: Diamond Duo
钻石双杰
德国奢华珠宝与腕表专家Wempe赋予旗下By
Kim品牌大胆新面貌，Ruairidh Pritchard有幸
采访到品牌拥有者Kim-Eva Wempe与创意总监
Catherine Plouchard
很难得看到一个品牌不受当前趋势与销售业绩影
响，推出大胆革新的系列，然而德国豪华腕表与珠宝
专家Wempe做到了。By Kim品牌旗下的最新系列
Cosmora，是真正独具匠心并将品牌专业工艺发挥
到极致的珍品。
Wempe在2001年推出By Kim系列珠宝，品牌
因公司创始人Gerhard D Wempe 的曾孙女，现任
拥有者Kim-Eva Wempe而得名。品牌目前已推出
了八个系列，By Kim俨然已成为德国最受欢迎的珠
宝品牌之一。
由12件精品珠宝组成的Cosmora在2014年11
月与大众见面。该系列由Kim-Eva Wempe与品牌
创意总监Catherine Plouchard共同打造，包括12枚
戒指，每一枚的灵感都源于一座国际大都市。该系列
将这间拥有138年历史的公司带入新时代，并由两名
强悍、充满热忱的女性执掌缰绳。
由Wempe与Plauchard两名女性掌舵对她们
来说都意义非凡。“对我而言，为Wempe工作是完
美的，因为公司由一名女性掌控，”Plouchard解释
道。“当你与其他女性一起工作，你们对于珠宝都有
一定的洞察力，就像我常说的，要烹饪一桌好菜首先
得有好胃口。”
这两名女性以深知客户想要什么而骄傲， 而
这份了解正是当初促使她们推出By Kim品牌的原
因。“这支团队开始只有女性，我们曾造访各大珠宝
展。在设计自己的系列之前，我们每年两次前往巴
黎购买珠宝，”Wempe解释。“我们见到那些美国买
家都是男性，他们拿着戒指仔细掂量，总是只关注
价格、克拉数、利润与营业额。价格是我们最不关注
的方面了。首先我们手握珠宝，感受它，试图想象佩
戴它带给人们的感受——价格永远是最后才考虑
的问题。”
珠宝带给佩戴者的感受是By Kim最关注的一
点。“作为由女性组成的团队，我们有着截然不同
的出发点。或许也正因如此，我们对于市面上商品
的评价相当苛刻：作为女性我们知道自己要什么，
但是我们找不到，”Wempe指出。作为珠宝的佩戴
者，Wempe和Plouchard深知珠宝不仅要外观漂
亮，还要有上佳触感以及好戴易搭。“男人们不这么
认为，”Plouchard解释。“在目光被吸引之前，身体
首先要被诱惑——感受、与身体的接触、佩戴起来
令人愉悦，才是最重要的。”
拥有法国与意大利血统的设计师与金匠
Catherine Plouchard愿意加入Wempe团队，
得益于公司拥有高超工艺的美名。“在我们见面
时，Catherine 说，‘但我有一个顾虑......就是这是间
德国公司。’我深知作为法国与意大利设计师，为
了2015年春夏的潮流。受1930年代瑞士作家与摄
影师Annemarie Schwarzenbach的中性着装风格
影响，新系列以公牛血色皮革裙装与短裤，搭配素
雅的淡紫色或淡蓝色衬衣和针织衫，外罩轻微束腰
的棉质夹克。
在Hugo Boss，吴季刚（Jason Wu）则带来棱
角印花以及黑色、白色、蓝色与灰褐色等干净色调
的功能性极简西服系列，利落衬衣裙与单色短袖衬
衣，全部搭配以平底凉鞋。该系列所张扬的自信完美
体现了“常规”风时尚。
德国品牌并非只在秀场上表现全新的低调造
型：全世界的潮流领导者们脚上都穿着Puma与
Adidas运动鞋，手臂上都佩戴着Bree等品牌出品的
时髦配饰，看起来德国风尚已经成为了新常态。
PH
OT
O: M
AT
TH
IAS
HO
FF
MA
NN
93
82: When You Shop The World,
Shop Tax Free
海外でのお買い物が免税に
グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利
用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街
にある27万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得
になります。
年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルー
の免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。
手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探し
ます。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル・
ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップ
を踏むだけです。
1. お買い物
お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免
税書類（タックスフリー・フォーム）を受け取ってくだ
さい。レシートを保管するのも忘れずに。
2. 還付請求
ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関でレシートに承認
印を押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーの還付
事務所で払い戻しを受けます。
€25以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最高
14.5％の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い戻
し額は、付加価値税（VAT）合計から事務手数料
を差し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承くだ
さい。 一部の空港で現金での即時払い戻しをご希
望の場合は、取り扱い手数料が免税書類ごとに課
されます。
日本語翻訳
当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时，
环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free
Shopping）为您节约购物开销。
每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global
Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只
是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联
（Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税
过程：
1. 消费购物
无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格
（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小票。
82: When You Shop The World,
Shop Tax Free
畅购全球，尊享退税
2. 申请退税
当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台
请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联
的退税点领取您的退税款。
联系方式：
+421 232 111 111
最低消费€25并且节约高达购买价格14.5%的税。请
注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管
理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取
现金退税手续费。
一家德国公司工作她可能会想，‘我了解他们会制造
汽车，但是他们真的能制造珠宝吗？’”Wempe解
释。“然而当她走访过Schwäbisch Gmünd的工作
室，见到我们的金匠之后，她表示愿意加入，因为她
发现我们非常了解自己能做到什么。我喜欢将之视为
艺术与技术的结合，因为她说她从未在意大利或法
国见过这样的高超品质。”
自那时起品牌已推出了八个系列。处女作
Sensual是一系列自然造型的吊坠，与强调佩戴感
受的弧形戒指。 Helioro是另一组由九款相互缠绕
的指环构成的戒指系列。今日新作则是Cosmora
系列。
灵感来自于世界各地的12座不同城市，每一枚
戒指的设计不但体现地域特色也诉说着不同的故
事。从纽约与中央公园到埃菲尔铁塔与巴黎，到维
也纳的分离派建筑克里姆特金穹顶，每一枚戒指
都各有千秋。“ 他们是非常漂亮的戒指，但也充满
艺术性，并叙述着每个地方的故事——这表达了
Catherine和我对各地不同的个人印象，”Wempe
表示。
这些戒指——其中部分镶嵌了200多枚珍贵宝
石——都是在Wempe的工作坊中，由工匠大师、宝
石专家与金匠亲手打造的。该系列并不对外出售；每
一枚都只用作展览。这不是一项容易的决定。“我们
希望这么做因为想要告诉世人我们做得到——我们
懂得艺术也有技术来实现，”Wempe解释道。
由两名女性坐镇并创造出Cosmora这样创意独
具、大胆革新的系列，Wempe向世界展示着其对美
丽珠宝不变的承诺。对于曾以专精腕表而知名的公
司，这并非易事。随着By Kim被推崇为欧洲首屈一
指的珠宝品牌之一，Wempe也证明自己不仅是全球
最守承诺的，也是最令人兴奋的珠宝公司之一。
wempe.com
globalblue.com
94
تقّدم لك غلوبل بلو Global Blue خدمة التسّوق من دون دفع الضيبة Tax Free لتّدخر الال لدى تسّوقك ف أكث من
270,000 متجر ف أبرز مناطق التسّوق حول العال.
فلَم ل تنضّم إل الـ 26 مليون مسافر الذين يتسّوقون من دون دفع الضيبة من خلل غلوبل بلو Global Blue كّل سنة؟ ما
عليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو Global Blue وتتبع خطواتنا السهلة.
1. تسّوقأينم تسّوقت، أطلب الحصول عل طلب استداد الضيبة الخاّص
بغلوبل بلو Global Blue وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت.
2. أطلبف طريق العودة إل وطنك، أقصد مكتب الجمرك عند نقطة
الغادرة لتتم الصادقة عل إيصالتك قبل قبض الستداد من أحد مكاتب الستداد الخاّصة بنا.
للتّصال:[email protected]
+421 232 111 111
أنفق حّداً أدن قدره 25€ واّدخر حتّى %14.5 من ثن مشتياتك. يشمل مبلغ الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضيبة
عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم إداري. ف بعض الطارات، يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي عل كل طلب استداد ضيبة ف حال رغبت
بالحصول عل استداد فوري نقدي.
When You Shop The World,
Shop Tax Free: 82
عندما تتسّوق حول العال، تسّوق من دون دفع الضيبة
By Kim ومع إطلق مجموعتها الثامنة، باتت .D Wempe
إحدى أشهر العلمات الختّصة بالجوهرات ف ألانيا.أُطلقت مجموعة Cosmora الؤلّفة من 12 قطعة ف شهر
Kim-Eva Wempe تشين الثان/نوفمب 2014. ابتكرتها ،Catherine Plouvhard ومديرة البتكار الفّني لدى العلمة
تشمل 12 خاتاً، كُلً مستوحاً من مدينة عاليّة مختلفة. تبّش الجموعة بعهٍد جديد للشكة التي تأّسست منذ 138 سنة والتي
تسك زمام المور فيها امرأتان شغوفتان باسلتان.تدرك Wempe وPlouchard أهميّة توّل امرأتي
زمام المور. تقول Plouchard ف هذا الصدد: "العمل لعلمة Wempe رائع لنّها بإدارة امرأة. عندما تعمل مع نساء أخريات
وبخاّصة ف مجال الجوهرات، تتّضح المور إل حّد كبي إذ كم أحّب أن أرّدد دوماً، الشعور بالشهيّة هو الطريقة الفضل للطهي."
تفتخر السيّدتان بعرفة طلب زبوناتهم وبفضل هذا Wempe بالصل. تشح By Kim الدراك، أطلقتا مجموعة
قائلة: "تألّف الفريق ف البداية من نساء فحسب وسافرنا إل معارض مجوهرات. كّنا نسافر إل باريس مرّتي كل سنة لشاء
قطع مجوهرات قبل أن بدأنا بابتكار مجموعاتنا الخاّصة. كّنا نرى مشتين أميكيّي، كلّهم من الرجال، يدقّقون بالخواتم ويركّزون
دوماً عل السعر والقياط والهوامش والعائد. أّما نحن، فكان السعر أقّل ما يهّمنا. كّنا نحمل القطعة أّولً ونلمسها ونشعر با يحّس الشخص لدى التزيّن بها، وكان السعر دوماً سؤالنا الخي."
تركّز مجموعة By Kim عل الشعور الذي تبعثه الجوهرات. تقول Wempe ف هذا الطار: "با أنّنا فريق مؤلّف من نساء، بدأنا من نقطة مختلفة. ورّبا لهذا السبب، بتنا ندقّق
أكث با نرى: علمنا كنساء ما الذي نريده ول نتمّكن من إيجاده." وبا أّن Wempe وPlouchard تتزيّنان بالجوهرات، أدركتا
أنّه ل يكفي أن تكون القطعة جميلة فحسب، بل يجب أن تكون حسيّة ويكن التزيّن بها. تشح Plouchard: "ل يفّكر الرجال
بالمر بهذه الطريقة. فقبل أن تُغري القطعة العيني، عليها أن تُغري الجسد، لذا من الهّم أن تبعث شعوراً وتتفاعل مع الجسم
وتكون جميلة." Catherine اقتنعت الصّممة والصائغة الفرنسيّة اليطاليّة
Plouchard بالنضمم إل Wempe لا تتمتّع به العلمة
:Wempe من شهرة من حيث الحرفيّة الرفيعة الستوى. تقول"عندما التقينا، قالت Catherine "لكّنها... شكة ألانيّة". علمت
أنّه كونها مصّممة فرنسيّة إيطاليّة تعمل لشكة ألانيّة قد تفّكر بهذه الطريقة "أعرف تاماً أّن باستطاعتهم صناعة السيّارات،
لكن هل يكنهم حّقاً ابتكار مجوهرات؟" لكّنها زارت مشغلنا ف Schwäbisch Gmünd والتقت صائغينا ومن ثّم وافقت
لنّها تأكّدت أنّنا ندرك ما نفعل. أحّب تشبيه هذا التعاون بالدمج بي الفّن والعرفة، إذ قالت إنّها ل تَر قط هكذا جودة ف إيطاليا
أو فرنسا."مّذاك، ابتكرت العلمة ثان مجموعات. تألّفت الجموعة
الول Sensual من حل بشكل أعضاء وخواتم مبومة للتكيز Helioro عل الشعور التي تبعثه عندما تُلبس. وتألّفت مجموعة
للخواتم من تسعة خيوط ذهبيّة فرديّة متداخلة مع بعضها .Cosmora البعض. وثّة اليوم مجموعة
استوِحي كّل خاتم من مدينة مختلفة حول العال وكان عددها 12 وُصّمم ليمز إل الوقع ورواية قّصة. من نيويورك إل
Central Park إل برج إيفل وباريس والقبّة الذهبيّة الستوحاة
ز كّل خاتم عن غيه. من Klimt ف مبنى النشقاق ف فيينا، يتميّتقول Wempe: "صحيٌح أنّها خواتم جميلة، لكّنها أيضاً فنيّة وتروي قّصة عن كّل مكان؛ تعّب عن انطباعاتنا الشخصيّة أنا و
Catherine عن كّل مكان."
تحوي بعض الخواتم ما يزيد عن 200 حجر ثي وقد ُصنعت يدويّاً ف مشغل Wempe من قبل كبار حرفيّيها
وعلمء الحجار الكرية وصائغي الجوهرات لديها. ل يكن شاء الجموعة إذ ابتُكرت كل قطعة لتُعرض فحسب. إنّه قرار غي
اعتيادي. تشح Wempe قائلة: "رغبنا القيام بذلك لنّنا أردنا أن نظهر أنّه باستطاعتنا القيام بذلك، نتمتّع بالفّن ولدينا العرفة
الكافية للقيام بذلك."بفضل سيّدتي تديران المور وتنّفذان ابتكارات جديدة
مغامرة عل سبيل Cosmora، تظهر Wempe التزامها الجوهرات الجميلة. بالنسبة إل علمة تشتهر أصلً بخبتها
بالساعات، قامت بإنجازات هائلة. وفيم ل تزال By Kim إحدى أبرز العلمات التجاريّة الختّصة بالجوهرات ف أوروبا، تبهن
Wempe أنّها ليست مجرّد إحدى أكث شكات الجوهرات التزاماً
ف العال، بل أيضاً إحدى أكثها إثارًة.wempe.com
95
ز الحريّة التي تُرافق اللحصيّة. وتتمثّل هذه الحريّة بعدم التميّف إل النتمء. أسلوب normcore هو السبيل إل إذ يؤّدي التكيّ
حياة أكث سلماً."ابتُكرت طرق اللّبس الكث بساطة وعمليّة وأقّل تباهياً
normcore لتبقى. اعتمد قطاع الزياء برّمته مسوراً أسلوبليقّدم أسلوباً يتقّصد البساطة مع بعض الزخرفات وتركيز عل الراحة؛ وهو أسلوب تتقنه العلمات اللانيّة من Adidas إل
.Hugo Boss
غابت البهرجة غياباً تاّماً عن الصّف الّول ف عروض ربيع/صيف 2015. حتّى بالنسبة إل رّواد الوضة التبّجلي ونجوم
أسلوب الشارع الذين اعتادوا التجّمع خارج أماكن إقامة عروض الزياء، كانت التصاميم البسيطة والريحة والعفويّة خيارهم.
لذا جاءت الرسالة واضحة أنّه للتألّق عن حّق، ل حاجة للتباهي بل يكفي الوثوق ببعض اللبس البسيطة الختارة بعناية لظهار
الفطنة ف السلوب. تصبغ هذه الوضة كافّة مجموعات ربيع/صيف 2015 ويتجّل ذلك من خلل تركيز مصّممي من نيويورك
وباريس عل طرق ارتداء أنثويّة لكن عمليّة. تجدين الحذية السطّحة والتناني التوّسطة الطول والساويل الواسعة والخطوط
النظيفة ف كّل مكان مع لسات من أسلوب ملبس الشارع الرياضيّة لضفاء نفحة عمليّة إل أكث الثواب أناقة.
تساهم العلمة الباريسيّة الشهية Céline ف زيادة تألّق Phoebe اللبس العاديّة- النيقة من خلل قطع الصّممة
Philo البسيطة والرغوبة إل حّد كبي. قالت Phoebe مؤّخراً
إل الجمهور ف مهرجان Vogue ف لندن: "آمل أن تشعر الرأة بالثقة والقّوة عندما ترتدي Céline... ل أمانع أن تلبس الرأة
أي شء طالا أنّها اختارت أن ترتديه لنفسها." تصدح أصداء هذه ي الوضة: تبّنى مصّممون كثيون الثقة العفويّة بوضوح بي محبّ
بساطة تشبه تلك التي اعتمدتها Céline كم شاعت لدى علمات راقية، وسادت اللوان الرزينة مثل السود والبيض والكحل والبّني
.Cosو Zara ف تشكيلتف الوقت عينه، تستعيد بعض القطع الكلسيكيّة مثل
العاطف الواقية من الطر والقمصان القلّمة والحذية بشائط مكانتها ف عال الزياء الراقية إذ تيل الرأة أكث فأكث إل ارتداء
ما يروقها بدلً من تتبّع الوضة. بالتال، عادت ساويل الجينز إل الضواء مع الحذية الرياضيّة – والحذية السطّحة بالجمل – ف
حي بات السوال السود وستة من الّدنيم قطعتي ل بّد من امتلكهم نسبًة إل احتملت تنسيقهم اللمحدودة.
ف اعتمدها لسلوب normcore، تركّز الزياء الراقية عل الخطوط النظيفة والقمشة الجميلة وعنص العمليّة. لطالا فهمت علمات تجاريّة ألانيّة رائدة أهميّة دمج العمليّة بالزياء
Strenesse الراقية، وظهر ذلك ف العمليّة النيقة التي اعتمدتها.Escada والبساطة الجليّة لدى
ولطالا أيّدت Jil Sander بشّدة الفخامة البسيطة الدروسة التي تسود حاليّاً عال الزياء. اليوم، وبإشاف
الصّمم اليطال Rodolfo Paglialunga )عمل سابقاً لدى Vionnet(، يلّخص أسلوب العلمة الدقيق الفاخر
صيحات ربيع/صيف 2015. استوحيت الجموعة من السلوب Annemarie الذكوري/النثوي للكاتبة والصّورة السويسيّةSchwarzenbach ف الثلثينات، فدمجت تناني و–ورتات
جلديّة باللّون الحمر القاتم مع قمصان وكنزات بلون اللّيلك
Diamond Duo: 60
ثنائ الاس
مع إضافة العلمة اللانيّة الختّصة بالجوهرات والساعات الفاخرة ،By Kim لسًة جريئة جديدة إل مجموعتها Wempe
تلتقي صاحبة العلمة Kim-Eva ومديرة تصميمها الفّني Ruairidh Pritchard بـ Catherine Plouchard
نادراً ما تقوم علمة تجاريّة بخطوة جريئة عن حّق غي متأثّرة بالوضة الرائجة وغي ُمحّفزة بالبيعات، إل أّن Wempe الخبية
بالساعات والجوهرات اللانيّة الفاخرة قامت بذلك. أضافت مؤّخراً مجموعة Cosmora إل مجوهرات By Kim فأتت
فريدة من نوعها وسلّطت الضوء عل الحرفيّة المتازة التي تتمتّع بها العلمة.
تنتج Wempe مجموعة مجوهرات By Kim منذ العام 2001 وقد سّميت بهذا السم نسبًة إل صاحبة الشكة الراهنة
Gerhard وهي إبنة حفيد الؤّسس Kim-Eva Wempe
الزاهي أو الزرق الباهت إل جانب ستات قطنيّة ضيّقة الخص.أّما لدى Hugo Boss، فاعتمد Jason Wu نقو–اً
جامدة وألوان السود والبيض والزرق والبّني الائل إل رمادي ف مجموعته العمليّة التي ضّمت بدلت بسيطة وفساتي صفة
قصية من دون أكمم وقمصان ناصعة قصية الكمم، كلّها منّسقة مع صنادل مسطّحة. بالتال، عكست الثقة التواضعة التجلّية ف
الجموعة أسلوباً عاديّاً-أنيقاً.ل يقتص امتلك العلمات اللانيّة لهذا السلوب البسيط
عل منّصات العرض فحسب، إذ مع انتعال محّددي الوضة حول العال أحذية Puma وAdidas الرياضيّة وتزيي آلف اليدي
بأكسسوارات رائعة من علمات مثل Bree، يبدو وكأّن السلوب اللان بات السلوب العادي الجديد.
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The New Normal: 52
العادي الجديد
تيعتمد عال الزياء لجموعات ربيع/صيف 2015 الفخامة البسيطة العمليّة؛ السلوب الذي لطالا تبّنته العلمات التجاريّة
Gwyneth Holland اللانيّة، تقريريشهد عال الزياء تحّولً من السلوب الفردي اللفت إل
أسلوب أكث هدوءاً وبساطًة و"عاديّاً". كان هذا الصطلح لُيعب الصّممي ومحبّي الزياء منذ بضع سنوات، لكن "عادي" هي
الكلمة الحدث اليوم ف مجال السلوب.منذ سنة 2014، يتقرّب عال الزياء من السلوب البتكر
الجديد normcore )أي العادي والتواضع( وهو مصطلح ساخر لطريقة لبٍس تركّز عل الطللة البسيطة التي ل تّت لي علمة
تجاريّة بصلة. بحسب وكالة K-Hole النيويوركيّة لتوقّع الوضة والتي أطلقت الصطلح: "يسعى أسلوب normcore إل تحقيق
وتقع شق Sternschanze منطقة Karoviertel الصغر حجمً التي لطالا كانت منطقة سكنيّة للطبقة العاملة وقد بدأت
مؤّخراً بإظهار ما تتمتّع به من نفحة ابتكاريّة تاماً كجارتها، وذلك بفعل الزدهار الفّني التواصل ف الدينة. تُعرف هذه
النطقة محليّاً بـ Karo وتقع بي وسط الدينة وأرض العارض ف هامبورغ وما زالت تحافظ عل جّو مميّز شبه قروي. تضّم اليوم
اطي الرفيعي الستوى بالضافة إل محلت مجموعة من الخيّمختّصة باللبس الجاهزة، ما يجعلها أكث مدينة عصيّة ف
هامبورغ من حيث الزياء.من التاجر البرز ف Karoviertel متجر Garment. أّسست
اطة Kathrin Müller ومصّممة الزياء الصديقتان؛ الخيّUllinca Schrӧder، Garment بعد أن التقيتا ف أكادييّة
الزياء والتصميم AMD ف هامبورغ. كان قرار فتح التجر ف Karoviertel سهلً للغاية. تقول Schrӧder: "تتمتّع ببيئة
Karoviertel مبتكرة ومريحة وحيويّة ومنفتحة. غالباً ما تُسّمىّ الصغي". إنّها أقل اكتظاظاً من Sternschanze وأهدأ "الحي
بأشواط. تتميّز بتاجر اللبسة الفريدة من نوعها التي يدير الكثي منها مصّممون." من أبرز المثلة عنها، متجر Garment الذي
يشمل ملبس للرجال والنساء ذات قّصات كلسيكيّة وتصاميم ملّونة ومعاصة.
من الشائع دمج القديم بالجديد ف Karoviertel. بالرغم من وفرة الهندسة العريقة ف النطقة، تضيف الكيانات التجاريّة Karo يًة مكانة الجديدة التي جاءت إل هنا لسًة عصيّة ُمثِ
الجديدة ف مجال الزياء. نذكر من السمء العاصة التي افتتحت Americanو Herr Von Eden مؤّخراً متاجر لها ف النطقة
.Apparel
من الواضح أّن روح البتكار والشموليّة ف Sternschanze وKaroviertel وسحرهم العريق يساعد هامبورغ عل الزدهار
لتصبح القلب البوهيمي الجديد للانيا. لطالا كانت الدينة بّوابة ألانيا إل سائر العال، لكن بفضل مناطقتها البتِكرة الجديدة، باتت
مكاناً يستحّق الستكشاف وليس فقط محطّة عبور.،malashop.com
،altes-maedchen.com
garment-online.de
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ترجمة باللغة العربيّة
Creative Quarters: 44
أحياء مبتكرة
تشهد الساحة التجاريّة ف هامبورغ نهضًة ثقافيّة وترّحب مناطقها الشمليّة الغربيّة بحلت مستقلّة ومطاعم غريبة وعلمات تجاريّة
Hamish Monk عاليّة مميّزة، عل حّد قولتشّكل هامبورغ محرّكاً صناعيّاً ف أوروبا الوسطى منذ أوائل
القرن التاسع عش. توّسعت الدينة مع الوقت لتصبح ثان أكب مرفأ ف القارّة وتُعرف أيضاً ببّوابة ألانيا إل العال. واليوم، تشهد
هذه القّوة التجاريّة الساحقة نهضًة ثقافيّة وبخاّصة ف منطقتي؛ Sternschanze وKaroviertel اللّتي تتحّولن إل إثني من
أبرز مناطق التسّوق ف ألانيا بفضل ما تحويان من متاجر مستقلّة وحانات بوهيميّة ومطاعم فاخرة.
تقع Sternschanze شمل غرب وسط الدينة وقد أضحت إحدى أكث الناطق حيويّة وابتكاراً ف هامبورغ. منذ الثمنينات، اعتُبت Sternschanze الرقعة الخلقة من الدينة وما زالت
مزاياها الفنيّة حاضة حتّى اليوم بفضل مزيج من الحلت الستقلّة والحلت الوقّتة والحانات والطاعم الجميلة. وقد
ات ابتكاراً ف هامبورغ. جذبت بعض أكث الشخصيّ Peter Freeseو Angelika Schulz نذكر من هؤلء السّكان
اللّذين أمضيا عّدة سنوات يسافرون ف أرجاء آسيا، ليعودا سنة 2000 إل هامبورغ ويفتحا متجر Mala وهو من أبرز التاجر
ف Sternschanze. إنّه عبارة عن مؤّسسة محليّة ويشمل تشكيلة واسعة من مستلزمات النزل والجوهرات والكسسوارات
الستوردة. يقول Freese: "فتحنا الحّل منذ 15 سنة وكانت Sternschanze آنذاك مساحًة لغي الرأسمليّي كالعّمل
اليدويّي والطلب والفّناني." ومّذاك، تطّورت النطقة لتصبح بوتقة Sternschanze قائلً: "تتمتّع Freese إبداعيّة وثقافيّة. يتابع
بزيج مذهل من الثقافات الدنيّة. إنّها مكاٌن مثال للحتفال وتناول الطعام والتمتّع بالعال؛ إنّها شاملة."
Altes مطعم Sternschanze من الماكن الميّزة أيضاً فMädchen وهو من الشهر ف الدينة. إسمه يعني "الفتاة
Freddy العجوز" وهو مستوحى من أغنية عن هامبورغ للمغّنيQuin ف الخمسينات. بالضافة إل ارتباط السم بالاض، يقوم
الطعم بحّد ذاته عل صناعة البية الحرفيّة الصاعدة ف ألانيا.أّسس الصديقان والجاران Oliver Nordmann و
Patrick Rüther مطعم Altes Mädchen ف باحة سوق
SchanzenhÖfe الرّممة وهدفا إل وضع البية ف قلب فّن
:Tina Küster الطعام اللان العصي. تقول الديرة الساعدة"افتتحنا Altes Mädchen ف آذار/مارس 2013 ووجدنا SchanzenhÖfe الكان الثال لذلك. النطقة جّداً قدية.
افتتحنا فيها الطعم الّول Bullerei منذ خمس سنوات وبفضل مخمرة Ratsherrn اللصقة ،تأكّدنا من رغبتنا بالتواجد ف هذا
الوقع."تعتب Küster جّو النطقة الميّز عنَص مساهمٍة قويّاً فتقول:
"Sternschanze منطقة جميلة ومثية للهتمم ف هامبورغ، تضّم أشخاصاً وثقافات مختلفة وأنواعاً متعّددة من الحلت
والطاعم. كلّم مشيت ف الشارع، تجد شيئاً جديداً وتختلف كّل زاوية عن الخرى."
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MONTBLANC
The story of Montblanc began in 1906 when
Hamburg banker Alfred Nehemias and Berlin
engineer August Eberstein recognised the
need for a diferent kind of writing instrument.
They established a frm producing a pen with
a built-in ink well, and by 1909 had settled on
the company name of Montblanc – the name
is said to refect the lofty heights that were
aspired to. However, it wasn’t until the launch
of the Meisterstück fountain pen in 1924
that Montblanc truly captivated the world’s
imagination. First handmade in Hamburg,
the Meisterstück has gained cult status as
the pinnacle of European craftsmanship
and expertise. Today, Montblanc’s range
has expanded to include watches, jewellery,
accessories, eyewear and fragrance, all
crafted with the level of care and skill that
one has come to expect from the Hamburg-
based company. th
Montblanc, Neuer Wall 18, 20354 Hamburg,
+49 (0)40 351175, montblanc.com
* for map go to page 78
GANT STORES HAMBURG
FLAGSHIP STORE NEUER WALL 80
ALSTERTAL & ELBE-EINKAUFSZENTRUM & AIRPORT-AIRSIDE
WWW.GANT.COM
T I M E A N D E N E R G Y . T H I S W A T C H S H O W S Y O U B O T H .
MANERO POWERRESERVE
BOUND TO TRADITION – DRIVEN BY INNOVATION
