View
232
Download
0
Embed Size (px)
Citation preview
7/27/2019 Way South Of Wahiba Sands - Travels With Wadiman by Adrienne Brady
1/34
8
7/27/2019 Way South Of Wahiba Sands - Travels With Wadiman by Adrienne Brady
2/34
^bmtmorhpb4 `murtgsy ma Hklrgw Omlfgr
Pek`g 852? Hlregkkg Frhly bhs cevgl mvgrsghs ek Pekohpmrg, Frukge, Cefyh hkl
tbg Jellcg Ghst thieko mppmrtuketegs tm gxpcmrg hk`egkt hkl cmst wmrcls. Bgr
hlvgkturgs ek Hseh ek`culeko gk`muktgrs wetb sgh perhtgs hkl tbg \hjec \eogrs
hrg surphssgl fy tbmsg gxpgregk`gl wbecg trhvgcceko tbrmuobmut Cefyh4 hrrgst,ektgrrmohtemk hkl aekhccy lgpmrthtemk hs h @EH suspg`t wbe`b freko tbgsg trhvgcs tm
hk gkl hrg rg`mrlgl ek bgr jgjmerIess \bg Bhkl Umu @hkkmtPgvgr. Vgselgkt ek
tbg Gjerhtgs armj 8551-6>>1 bgr trhvgc aghturgs wgrg pufcesbgl ek Arelhy
Jhohzekg (Ouca Kgws), Ibhcggd \ejgs hkl ^rmpgrty _mrcl Jellcg Ghst.
H``mukts ma bgr jmrg rg`gkt gxpcmrhtemks tbrmuobmut Mjhk hkl ektm tbg bghrt
ma Hare`h amrj tbg fh`ifmkg ma tbes jgjmer.
Hlregkkg Frhly es hcsm h prezg wekkeko pmgt.
Pbg cevgs ek Lmrsgt.
6
7/27/2019 Way South Of Wahiba Sands - Travels With Wadiman by Adrienne Brady
3/34
Hcsm fy Hlregkkg Frhly
Kmk-ae`temk
Iess \bg Bhkl Umu @hkkmt Pgvgr
Jgcrmsg Fmmis
^mgtry Hktbmcmoegs `mktrefutemks
Xuektgt Pthpcg, WI
Armj \bgk \ec Kmw
^mgtry ^rgss WPH
Fhse` Gkocesb Pgregs, ^mgtry 6
Om hkl Mpgk tbg Lmmr, ^mgtry 0
Jh`jecchk Glu`htemk
- WI hkl Hustrhceh
cgt jg fg - h dukemr hktbmcmoy ma pmgtry
Jh`jecchk, Pwhzechkl
Pujjgr @mjgs Fhrgammt Kmw
Gletmr G^F, Pekohpmrg
Jhohzekgs mktrefutemks ek`culg
\bg Ppg`thtmr
^mgtry Vgvegw
Pu``gss hs hk ektgrkhtemkhc prezg wekkeko pmgt cgl tm hk gktry ek tbg
Ektgrkhtemkhc _bms _bm ek ^mgtry hkl ^mgts Gk`y`cmphgleh
0
7/27/2019 Way South Of Wahiba Sands - Travels With Wadiman by Adrienne Brady
4/34
_ H U P M W \ BM A
_ H B E F H P H K L P
\ V H Q G C P _ E \ B _ H L E J H K
7/27/2019 Way South Of Wahiba Sands - Travels With Wadiman by Adrienne Brady
5/34
\m tbg jgjmry ma jy fgcmvgl _hlejhk
Ve`bhrl _ecsmk @bhpjhk
7
7/27/2019 Way South Of Wahiba Sands - Travels With Wadiman by Adrienne Brady
6/34
H l r egkkg F r h l y
_ H U P M W \ BM A
_ H B E F H P H K L P
\ V H Q G C P _ E \ B _ H L E J H K
1
7/27/2019 Way South Of Wahiba Sands - Travels With Wadiman by Adrienne Brady
7/34
@mpyreobt Hlregkkg Frhly 6>80
\bg reobt ma Hlregkkg Frhly tm fg elgkteaegl hs hutbmr ma tbes wmri bhs fggk
hssgrtgl fy bgr ek h``mrlhk`g wetb sg`temk ?? hkl ?2 ma tbg @mpyreobt,
Lgseoks hkl ^htgkts H`t 8522.
^bmtmorhpb Pgcg`temks, Hlregkkg Frhly hkl Ve`bhrl @bhpjhk Hlregkkg Frhly 6>80
Eccustrhtemks Dhsjekg G. Frhly 6>80
Hcc reobts rgsgrvgl. Km phrt ma tbes pufce`htemk jhy fg rgprmlu`gl, stmrgl ek hrgtregvhc systgj, mr trhksjettgl ek hky amrj mr fy hky jghks, gcg`trmke`,
jg`bhke`hc, pbmtm`mpyeko, rg`mrleko, mr mtbgrwesg, wetbmut tbg premrpgrjessemk ma tbg pufcesbgrs.
Hky pgrsmk wbm `mjjets hky ukhutbmrezgl h`t ek rgchtemk tm tbes pufce`htemk
jhy fg cehfcg tm `rejekhc prmsg`utemk hkl `evec `chejs amr lhjhogs.
H @E^ `hthcmoug rg`mrl amr tbes tetcg es hvhechfcg armj tbg Fretesb Cefrhry.
EPFK 5?282
7/27/2019 Way South Of Wahiba Sands - Travels With Wadiman by Adrienne Brady
8/34
H`ikmwcglogjgkts
\bg dmurkgys rg`mrlgl ek tbes fmmi, tbrmuobmut Mjhk hkl ektm Hare`h, ektgrwmvgk
wetb gpesmlgs armj mur cevgs ek tbg Gjerhtgs hkl aekhccy Lgvmk, beobceobt tbg
lrhjhte` `bhkogs thieko pch`g ek tbg cevgs ma cm`hc pgmpcg, `bhkogs tbht wgrg ek
prmorgss, fgamrg mur vgry gygs.
E rgjhek eklgftgl tm tbg pgmpcg wg jgt mk mur trhvgcs, gspg`ehccy tbg ogktcg
hkl wgc`mjeko pgmpcg ma Mjhk9 tbger ieklkgss tm strhkogrs kgvgr ahecgl, wbgtbgr
et whs tbg kggl tm fg tmwgl mut ma lggp shkl, pmektgl mr ouelgl ek tbg reobt
lerg`temk h`rmss aghturgcgss, ektgrjekhfcg orhvgc pcheks, mr tbg wgc`mjg wg hcwhys
rg`gevgl wbgk hrreveko ukhkkmuk`gl mk tbg lmmrstgp ma hk esmchtgl vecchog.Armj mur jmrg rg`gkt, ouelgl trhvgcs ek Hare`h wetb tbg trhvgc `mjphky
Gxpcmrg, spg`ehc tbhkis tm Lhrem cghl lrevgr-`uj-ouelg amr h shag gxpgletemk
tbrmuob tbg Gtbempehk Veat Qhccgy ektm tbg Cmwgr Mjm rgoemk. E rgjhek orhtgauc tm
Jhri \bmjpsmk, armj Bellgk Ohjfeh. Hrjgl wetb h suppcy ma revgr fmhts hkl
7/27/2019 Way South Of Wahiba Sands - Travels With Wadiman by Adrienne Brady
9/34
Ek smjg eksthk`gs, tbg khjgs ma pgmpcg wg trhvgccgl wetb mr gk`muktgrgl bhvg
fggk `bhkogl tm prmtg`t elgktetegs.
\rhks`reptemk ma pch`g khjgs4 tm rgsmcvg tbg welg levgrogk`g ma Gkocesb
trhks`reptemks ma pch`g khjgs ek tbg `muktregs vesetgl spgccekos vhry
`mkselgrhfcy cm`hccy, ek fmmis hkl mk jhps E bhvg gklghvmurgl tm sgcg`t tbgjmst strheobtamrwhrl hkl tm rgjhek `mksestgkt.
Gxtrh`ts rgprmlu`gl fy iekl pgrjessemk ma tbg amccmweko4
Tgclh ^ektm, Jmtevhtg ^ufcesbeko, Lufhe
Gxtrh`ts armj Mjhk, Hk Hrhfehk Hcfujfy Vmkhcl @mlrhe
\rhvgcceko tbg Phkls fy Hklrgw \hycmr
Jmbhkh ^rhfbhihr, Hpgx ^ufcesbeko, MjhkGxtrh`t armj Mjhk \mlhyfyPghk Jmmkgy
Ke`i @bhtmr, Vmfgrt Bhcg Ctl
Gxtrh`ts armj _hrcmrls ma Mjhkfy ^.P. Hccargg
Dmk Oeaamrl, Mcghklgr ^rgss
Gxtrh`t armj \rhvgcs ek Mjhk4 Hrhfeh ^hst hkl ^rgsgktfy ^becep _hrl
\hkh Chphog, Phahre GxpgrtsGxtrh`ts armjHk Gxpgletemk tm Pmutbgrk Gtbempehfy \ej Chphog
Cyk Buobgs, _hklgrcust trhvgc jhohzekg, 6>>7
Gxtrh`t armjGtbempehfy\mky _bggcgr
Fhrkhfy Vmogrsmk, Gchkl ^ufcesbeko Ctl.
Gxtrh`ts armj \rhvgcs ektm tbg Ektgremr ma Hare`hfy Jukom ^hri
Lhvel Jhrslgk, @bejp`bhttgrGxtrh`t armj \bg Amrgst Lwgccgrsfy Ptgcch Frgwgr
Bgcgk Frm`icgburst, HH ^ufcesbeko
Gxtrh`t armj @yprus, Pperhc Ouelgfy Ogmrog J`Lmkhcl
Igcsgy Amrl, Kgw Lerg`temks ^ufcesbeko, WPH
Gxtrh`ts armj \bg ^mgjs ma Lychk \bmjhsfy Lychk \bmjhs
Jhps4 WHG hkl Mjhk, Jmtevhtg ^ufcesbeko, Lufhe
hldustjgkts, tbhkis tm Hsbh Tbhko
\bg Mihvhkom Lgcth Ohjgtrh`igrs, Fmtswhkh
5
7/27/2019 Way South Of Wahiba Sands - Travels With Wadiman by Adrienne Brady
10/34
E bhvg lrhwk upmk h welg vhregty ma smur`gs, fmtb lureko jy tejg ek tbg Gjerhtgs
hkl sek`g. Mpekemks hkl grrmrs hrg jekg. E hj gspg`ehccy eklgftgl tm tbg wretekos
ma tbmsg hutbmrs jgktemkgl ek tbg Fefcemorhpby. Gvgry gaamrt bhs fggk jhlg tm
`mkth`t tbg `mpyreobt bmclgrs ma hcc qumtgl jhtgrehc. Chtg rgspmksgs hklekhlvgrtgkt mjessemks wecc fg rg`teaegl ek auturg gletemks.
8>
7/27/2019 Way South Of Wahiba Sands - Travels With Wadiman by Adrienne Brady
11/34
Ceag es gtgrkhc hkl cmvg es ejjmrthchkl lghtb es mkcy hk bmrezmk
hkl hk bmrezmk es kmtbeko shvg tbg cejet ma mur seobt.
_eccehj ^gkk (81
7/27/2019 Way South Of Wahiba Sands - Travels With Wadiman by Adrienne Brady
12/34
Wketgl Hrhf Gjerhtgs hkl tbg Pucthkhtg ma Mjhk
86
7/27/2019 Way South Of Wahiba Sands - Travels With Wadiman by Adrienne Brady
13/34
\mwhrls tbg Bmrezmk
822, wg jhlg h cmko ektgklgl trep tm @yprus. H wggi hatgr mur rgturk, Ve`bhrl
whs lehokmsgl wetb fchllgr `hk`gr. Pex jmktbs chtgr, tbg `hk`gr whs mut ma
80
7/27/2019 Way South Of Wahiba Sands - Travels With Wadiman by Adrienne Brady
14/34
`mktrmc4 tbg bmrezmk tbht bhl mk`g rg`glgl ektm tbg lesthk`g whs ukgxpg`tglcy
rusbeko tmwhrls us.
_reteko hfmut mur sbhrgl dmurkgy ek tbes ceag, bhs uklmuftglcy igpt tbg phek ma
Ve`bhrls hfsgk`g hcevg. Ek`rghsekocy, tbg sgksg ma cmss es h``mjphkegl fy hk
hwhrgkgss ma bes speretuhc prgsgk`g, gspg`ehccy mutselg uklgr tbg pekg trgg ek tbgohrlgk ma jy bmusg ek ^mmcg, h pch`g wg `hjg tm wbgk mk cghvg, suklmwkgr ek
bhkl, cestgkeko tm tbg rmfeks bghrtstmppeko smko9 whcieko mk kgeobfmureko
bghtbchkl, bes ejhog fgamrg jg, fekm`uchrs trhekgl mk jmvgjgkts ek h kghrfy
trgg9 wht`beko yh`bts fmwc ektm ^mmcg Bhrfmur hs tbg lyeko suk turks sgh hkl siy
fcmml rgl ht tbgsg jmjgkts gspg`ehccy, E aggc tbht bg es `cmsg.
8
7/27/2019 Way South Of Wahiba Sands - Travels With Wadiman by Adrienne Brady
15/34
\bg Wketgl Hrhf Gjerhtgs
\bg mreoek ma gxestgk`g es jmvgjgkt. Ejjmfecety `hk bhvg km phrt ek et, amr ea
gxestgk`g whs ejjmfecg et wmucl rgturk tm ets smur`g, wbe`b es tbg Qmel.
\bht es wby tbg vmyhoeko kgvgr stmps, ek tbes wmrcl mr ek tbg bgrghatgr.
Efk-hc-Hrhfe, \bg Fmmi ma Vgvgchtemks mk tbg Gaag`ts ma Qmyhoeko
(86tb `gktury Hrhf pbecmsmpbgr)
87
7/27/2019 Way South Of Wahiba Sands - Travels With Wadiman by Adrienne Brady
16/34
Bmjgchkl ma Ohzgccgs
Ektgkt mk rgh`beko tbg ahst chkg mk jy reobt, hk Hrhf ek h fch`i Jgr`glgs
sullgkcy puccgl mut ek armkt ma jg. \m hvmel h `mccesemk, hcc E `mucl lm whs frhig
hkl swgrvg. Ekstghl ma rmhreko ektm tbg lesthk`g, bg sthygl hcmkoselg hkl igptph`g wetb jg. E ikgw bg whs tbgrg, fut ukkgrvgl hkl hkory, E igpt jy gygs mk tbg
fusy rmhl hbghl. Aekhccy E cmmigl h`rmss, hkl wg gx`bhkogl ochk`gs. Bg rhesgl
bes bhkl hkl ek`cekgl bes bghl ek h ogsturg ma hpmcmoy. _bgk E ohvg ek hkl
h`ikmwcglogl bes ogsturg, bg tmu`bgl bes amrgbghl ek h ogktcg shcutg fgamrg thieko
maa ceig h dgt mk tbg rukwhy.
\bht gvgkeko, wbecg wht beko tbg kgws ek Ve`bhrls Pbhrdhb-fhsgl acht, tbg
`hjgrh zmmjgl ek mk hk Hrhf httgkleko tbg mpgkeko ma ygt hkmtbgr gktgrpresg ek
Lufhe.Ets bej, E `hccgl tm Ve`bhrl. Ets tbg ouy wbm `ut jg up mk tbg jmtmrwhy.
\bg ejhog ma bes lestek`tevg cghk hkl hkouchr ah`g hkl kghtcy `ut lhri fghrl
frmuobt fh`i tbg jgjmry ma tbg ek`elgkt.
\bht, lg`chrgl Ve`bhrl, \bht es Pbgeib Jmbhjjgl. Kmkg mtbgr tbhk tbg
@rmwk ^rek`g ma Lufhe.
_g horggl tbht hctbmuob ouecty ma rg`icgss lreveko, tbg Pbgeib bhl `cghrcy
fggk chtg amr hk ejpmrthkt hppmektjgkt hkl bes lgtgrjekgl, hpmcmogte` ogsturg
jmrg tbhk jhlg up amr et.
\m om fh`i tm tbg fgoekkeko ht cghst hs ahr hs rg`mrlgl bestmry ma tbg `urrgkt
ruceko ahjecy es `mk`grkgl thigs us tm h lhy ek 8?18 wbgk Pbgeib Lbeyhf fek
Esh, cghlgr ma tbg Fhke Uhs \refg, sgt mut armj Cewh Mhses mk h bukteko
gxpgletemk. ^hrt ma tbg ormup amccmwgl h acggeko ohzgccg h`rmss lgsgrt hkl `mhsthc
lukgs, hkl tbgk tbrmuob cmw-cyeko sbhccmw whtgr mktm hk eschkl. \bg buktgrs
ahecgl tm `hpturg tbger prgy, fut tm tbger hstmkesbjgkt, tbgy les`mvgrgl h spreko ma
argsb whtgr. _bgk tbg Pbgeib whs tmcl, bg lg`rggl tbht tbg eschkl sbmucl fg
ikmwk hsHfu Lbhfe, tbg Ahtbgr mr Bmjgchkl ma Ohzgccgs.
Jgjfgrs ma tbg Fhke Uhs \refg, hktg`glgkts ma tbg `urrgkt rucgrs ma HfuLbhfe hkl Lufhe, sgt up bmjg mk tbes eschkl hkl `mktekugl tm gkdmy tbger Fglmuek
ceagstycg ma bukteko, aesbeko hkl pghrceko. H `gktury mr sm chtgr, h ohtbgreko ma tbg
jmrg hlvgkturmus jgjfgrs ma tbg Hc Fu Ahchshb sg`temk ma tbg Fhke Uhs, cgl fy
Wfhel fek Phel hkl Jhitmuj fek Fute, amrjgl h spcektgr ormup, hfhklmkgl Hfu
Lbhfe hkl sgttcgl rmukl h `rggi ek kgeobfmureko Lufhe, sgtteko up h bhrfmur
fhsgl trhleko `gktrg ek pghrcs armj tbg `rggi hkl `mppgr armj Mjhk. \bgk, ek tbg
850>s, wbgk tbg Dhphkgsg prmlu`temk ma `ucturgl pghrcs ruekgl tbg jhrigt amr
khturhc pghrcs, h jerh`cg m``urrgl tm fg prg`esg, tbg les`mvgry ma mec. \bg lg`hlg
tbht shw tbg lgjesg ek tbg trhlg ma tbg khturhc pghrc whs tbg shjg lg`hlg tbht
wetkgssgl tbg aerst mec-streig mk tbg eschkl ma Fhbrhek.
\bht whs dust tbg fgoekkeko. \bg gksueko 85?>s mec fmmj trhksamrjgl tbg
cevgs ma Fglmuek trefgs ceveko ek tbger fhrhste (phcj-cgha) sgttcgjgkts, mk tbg
eschkls hkl `mhsthc pcheks ma tbg cmwgr Ouca. \bg Bmjgchkl ma Ohzgccgs whs
lgstekgl tm fg`mjg tbg ahst lgvgcmpeko jmlgrk `ety et rgjheks tm tbes lhy.
81
7/27/2019 Way South Of Wahiba Sands - Travels With Wadiman by Adrienne Brady
17/34
Hfu Lbhfe, Lufhe, Pbhrdhb
8551 -8552
Ek tbg aekhc lg`hlgs ma tbg twgktegtb `gktury, tbg mutomeko cghlgrs ma tbg Fhke Uhs,
wbm bhl sgttcgl ek Lufhe, `mktekugl tm thig tbg cghl ek tbg lgvgcmpjgkt armkt.Lufhe whs ormweko ht h ahst ph`g mk chkl hkl ht sgh. Lrgloeko tm fuecl eschkls ek
tbg sbhpg ma phcj trggs hkl, tbg jmrg hjfetemus, ek tbg sbhpg ma tbg wmrcl, tm
h``mjjmlhtg jhksemks amr `gcgfretegs hkl jeccemkhergs, whs thieko ets tmcc mk tbg
quhcety ma sheceko hkl aesbeko. Pcuooesb `urrgkts hkl h fuecl-up ma sgwhog wgrg
dust twm ma tbg jmrg mfvemus selg gaag`ts.
Fy tbg turk ma tbg `gktury, ghsy `ht`bgs ma ieko aesb mr fhrrh`ulh amr fhrfg`ug
suppgrs wgrg rhpelcy lg`cekeko, wbecg rgpmrts ma tbg leshppghrhk`g ma luomko hkl
mtbgr gklhkogrgl spg`egs khturhc tm tbes rgoemk stghlecy ek`rghsgl.
@bhkogs mk chkl ek culgl h kgtwmri ma rmhls tm h``mjjmlhtg tbglgvgcmpjgkt ma beob-resg tmwgrs, sbmppeko `gktrgs, bmtgcs, fusekgss hkl trhleko
`gktrgs prmceagrhteko h`rmss tbg prgvemus shkls`hpg ma rmcceko lukgs. \bg luhc
`hrrehogwhy, wetb ets `gktrhc rgsgrvhtemk ma phcj trggs, cekieko Pbhrdhb tm Lufhe
hkl Hfu Lbhfe, tbht bhl orggtgl us ek tbg jel-855>s, whs rgpch`gl fy h acmmlcet
sex-chkg jmtmrwhy. Fut gvgk tbht ahecgl tm `htgr hlgquhtgcy amr tbg ek`rghsg ek
trhaae`. _bht wetb `mkogstemk hkl hk g`cg`te` jex ma lrevgrs, armj wghctby Hrhfs
tm cgss wghctby ejjeorhkts, hkl h acgxefcg hpprmh`b tm tbg rucgs ma tbg rmhl,
lreveko whs fg`mjeko ek`rghsekocy strgssauc hkl bhzhrlmus.
Ek tbg cmko ruk, et whs tbg hfecety ma tbg mreoekhc Fglmuek trefgs tm h``gpt hklhlhpt tm tbg sullgk lgvgcmpjgkt tbrmuobmut tbg rgoemk ek h jhttgr ma lg`hlgs,
ekstghl ma tbg `gkturegs thigk fy mtbgr khtemks ek tejgs phst, hs wgcc hs hk mpgk-
jeklgl httetulg tmwhrls tbg gvgr ormweko ektgrkhtemkhc gxphtrehtg `mjjukety,
tbht jhlg tbg Gjerhtgs h shag, ahs`ekhteko hkl `bhccgkoeko pch`g tm cevg ek hkl
gxpcmrg.
Amr tbg jmst phrt, tbg gxphtrehtg pmpuchtemk, mk aexgl, mr rgchtevgcy sbmrt-tgrj,
rgkgwhfcg `mktrh`ts, rgjhekgl eksuchtgl armj tbg cm`hc pmpuchtemks hkl tbg beob-
resg wmrcl lgvgcmpeko hrmukl tbgj. \bgy cevgl ek her-`mkletemkgl
h``mjjmlhtemk, lrmvg her-`mkletemkgl `hrs tm her-`mkletemkgl wmripch`gs,s`bmmcs mr `cufs hkl, ht tbg gkl ma gh`b jmktb, `mccg`tgl wmrtbwbecg thx-argg
shchregs.
Kmt hcc tbg wmriamr`g cevgl wetbek tbes `mjamrt zmkg. \bg ejjeorhkt chfmur
amr`g chrogcy armj Ekleh, ^hiesthk hkl Fhkochlgsb cevgl mk `mjpmukls mr ek
`hjps wetb fhse` ah`ecetegs, wmrigl cmko bmurs ek ieccgr tgjpgrhturgs amr jekejuj
whogs ek mrlgr tm sgkl tbg rgjetthk`g tm ahjecegs ht bmjg. Et es upmk tbg sbmuclgrs
ma tbgsg `mkstru`temk wmrigrs tbht tbg amuklhtemks hkl lgvgcmpjgkt ma tbg rhpelcy
ormweko Gjerhtgs siycekg rgcegl hkl `mktekugl tm rgcy.
Kgetbgr lel gh`b ekleveluhc Gjerhtg lgvgcmp ht tbg shjg ph`g. \bes fg`hjg
gvelgkt wbgk Ve`bhrl whs trhksagrrgl armj Hfu Lbhfe tm Pbhrdhb ek 855?9 et whs
kmt ukceig stgppeko fh`i ek tejg. Ek tbg 857>s, Pbhrdhb whs `mkselgrgl tbg jmst
ejpmrthkt `mhsthc sgttcgjgkt ma tbg tbgk \ru`ehc Pthtgs. \bg bghlsthrt whs eketehtgl
ek 8506 wbgk Ejpgrehc Herwhys tbg amrgrukkgrs ma Fretesb Herwhys
`mkstru`tgl hk heraegcl hkl usgl tbg herpmrt hs h stmpmvgr gk rmutg tm Ekleh. \bgk,
8?
7/27/2019 Way South Of Wahiba Sands - Travels With Wadiman by Adrienne Brady
18/34
ek tbg 85s, wbgk tbg amrt hkl heraegcl wgrg thigk mvgr fy h ohrresmk ma tbg VHA,
Pbhrdhb fg`hjg tbg aerst Gjerhtg wetb hk ektgrkhtemkhc herpmrt.
Et bhs cmko fggk mvgrthigk fy Hfu Lbhfe hkl kgeobfmureko Lufhe, sm ju`b
sm, tbht ek tbg chtg 855>s, Pbhrdhb whs chooeko fgbekl ets revhcs ek hcc hspg`ts ma
lgvgcmpjgkt, ek`culeko h``mjjmlhtemk amr gxphtrehtg rgselgkts. Km jhttgr bmw
gjekgkt mr sgkemr, herpmrt gjpcmyggs wgrg bmusgl ek hk hk`egkt hkl lechpelhtglfcm`i ma `mk`rgtg achts. Hs tbg rg`gktcy hppmektgl Jhkhogr ma Her \rhaae`
Gkoekggreko ht Pbhrdhb Ektgrkhtemkhc Herpmrt, tbes whs Ve`bhrls kgw bmjg.
Et fmhstgl agw `mjamrts fut wetb smjg hjusgjgkt, rgselgkts `mjphrgl tbger
cmt tm tbht ma tbger prglg`gssmrs ma cgss tbhk bhca h `gktury ghrcegr. \bht Pbhrdhbs
prgjegr rgputhtemk, fuect mk tbg prgsgk`g ma tbg herpmrt, whs ht mlls wetb tbg
quhcety ma tbg h``mjjmlhtemk mk maagr whs jhlg `cghr fy tbg hutbmr ^becep
Hccargg. Ek bes 857< hpprheshc, bg lgs`refgs tbg Vmyhc Her Amr`g bghlquhrtgrs hs4
smjgtbeko ma h scuj h `mjpmukl ma cmw tek-rmmagl buts, gh`b wetb h `chkieko her-
`mkletemkgr wbe`b cmmigl hkl smuklgl ceig h trh`temk-gkoekg.
_hrcmrls ma Mjhk
Fy `mjphresmk, Ve`bhrls hogeko hphrtjgkt tbg pch`g wg rgtergl tm hatgr h lhys
sheceko whs vgroeko mk upjhrigt, gspg`ehccy wbgk wg `mkvgrtgl tbg `mk`rgtg
fhc`mky ektm h jeke-dukocg hkl httrh`tgl h pher ma fucfucs wbe`b bmkmurgl us fy
kgsteko tbgrg.
Lufhe Maasbmrg Pheceko @cuf (LMP@) bmjg tm PuksgtPmko, Ve`bhrls Dhouhr
sheceko yh`bt whs hs ekamrjhc hkl aregklcy sm`ehccy hs et whs amr sheceko. Et hccfgohk ek Dukg 85?s, jmlgrkeshtemk ek`culgl whci-mk jmmrekos, her-`mkletemkgl ah`ecetegs ht tbg
`cufbmusg amr aucc Gkocesb frghiahst fgamrg sheceko, hkl thfcgs hkl `bhers uklgr
phcj trggs `mjpcgtg wetb bhrfmur hkl sgh vegws amr suklmwkgrs hatgr sheceko._bm `mucl hsi amr hkytbeko jmrg=
H cmkosthkleko jgjmry ma h sheceko, hkl hatgr-sheceko gxpgregk`g beobceobts
dust mkg ma tbg `bhrh`tgreste`s tbht jhlg Ve`bhrl su`b hk ekvhcuhfcg trhvgcceko
`mjphkemk bg whs `mjpcgtgcy ukahzgl fy ukgxpg`tgl mr uktejgcy gvgkts. \hcc,
welg-sbmuclgrgl wetb amrogt-jg-kmt fcug gygs hkl hk ghsy lejpcgl sjecg, bg whs
sgca-pmssgssgl hkl gklmwgl wetb h pmsetevg httetulg tm ceag hkl ets petahccs. Bes
jghsurgl hkl `hcj hssurhk`g whs rgacg`tgl ek bes jmvgjgkts. E kgvgr shw
Ve`bhrl ruk. Bes elgh ma spggl whs tm cgkotbgk bes strelg hkl ek`rghsg bes ph`g tm
h ahst strmcc.Mk mkg m``hsemk, hatgr h cgesurgcy `ruesg hcmko tbg `mhstcekg, wg wgrg mk mur
why fh`i tm tbg `cufbmusg wbgk, wekl-aeccgl shecs ht aucc tect, h su``gssemk ma
rh`eko lbmws lgs`gklgl upmk us. _g wgrg ht tbg turkeko pmekt amr tbger rh`g
fgamrg tbgy bghlgl fh`i up tbg Ouca tm tbg aekesbeko cekg. Qhremus cgss pmcetg
vgrsemks ma Ogt mut ma tbg why! ek Hrhfe` hkl Gkocesb rhekgl upmk us. \bg
82
7/27/2019 Way South Of Wahiba Sands - Travels With Wadiman by Adrienne Brady
19/34
sieppgr, wbm whs lmeko bes fgst tm mfceog hkl iggp Puksgt Pmkohwhy armj tbg
lbmws mk mkg selg hkl tbg rm`iy sbmrg mk tbg mtbgr, bhl fggk cgat sbmrtbhklgl fy
bes `rgw. Kgoceogkt ma bgr sheceko lutegs, sbg whs sthkleko mk tbg prmw, `hjgrh ek
bhkl, ogtteko sbmts ma lbmws hkl tbger jhokeae`gkt `urvh`gmus shecs secbmugttgl
hohekst tbg sgtteko suk.
Phagcy fh`i ht LMP@, wg put Puksgt Pmko tm rgst, mrlgrgl suklmwkgrs hklamml hkl sht uklgr h lhtg phcj, mvgrcmmieko tbg jmmrekos hkl bhrfmur. Pek`g mur
thfcg whs pmsetemkgl kghr tbg whciwhy, et whs ekgvethfcg tbht rgturkeko agccmw
shecmrs wmucl stmp tm `bht9 smjg dmekgl us hkl ekvhrehfcy fmuobt rmukls ma lrekis.
Pmjgtejg chtgr, wbgk E omt tm jy aggt tm phy h veset tm tbg chlegs rmmj, E
les`mvgrgl wbht et es tm fg vertuhccy cgocgss. \bgk, hs E oekogrcy jhlg jy why
fh`i tmwhrls tbg thfcg, mvgr`mjg fy h orght rusb ma khusgh, E gjptegl tbg
`mktgkts ma jy stmjh`b uklgr h `mkvgkegktcy pmsetemkgl phcj trgg fgamrg
`mcchpseko mktm h kghrfy fgk`b.
Gvgktuhccy `mk`grkgl fy tbg cgkotb ma jy hfsgk`g, Ve`bhrl cm`htgl jyprmstrhtg amrj, bgcpgl jg tm jy aggt hkl ouelgl jg tm tbg Pshkoymko-Jussm.
_becg mk tbg beobwhy gk rmutg tm bes hphrtjgkt, ek rgspmksg tm sullgk lgjhkls
tm rgcegvg jy stecc-`burkeko stmjh`b, bg khveohtgl sgvgrhc gjgrogk`y stmps. Mk
hrrevhc, hcc httgjpts tm hssest jg armj tbg Jussm ahecgl9 tbgk, tm bes vgecgl
hjusgjgkt, bg les`mvgrgl tbht E whs htth`bgl tm tbg sght fy h thkocg ma aesbeko
cekg hkl bmmis tbht just bhvg fggk cgat mk tbg fgk`b E bhl `mcchpsgl mktm.
_becg sheceko prmvelgl mppmrtuketegs tm veset hkl `hjp mvgrkeobt mk ukspmect
`mhsthc eschkls, et hcsm lrgw mur httgktemk tm tbg weslmj ma kmt strhyeko fgymkl`grthek fmuklhregs. Mk mkg m``hsemk Fecc Leff, h agccmw gxpht sheceko aregkl hkl
mwkgr ma h Lrhs`mjfg Cuoogr, ekvetgl Ve`bhrl hkl jg tm dmek bej amr hk
hatgrkmmk shec maa tbg `mhst ma Hfu Lbhfe. _g wgrg `rueseko tmwhrls wbht
hppghrgl tm fg h prgvemuscy ukgxpcmrgl, elycce` eschkl tbg pgrag`t pch`g amr h
spmt ma fgh`b`mjfeko hkl h swej wbgk, ek tbg sbhlg ma h sbmrgcekg phcj trgg,
wg shw h jhk pmekteko h chrog ouk ht us. Hs Fecc ekstru`tgl bes `rgw tm ogt rghly
tm om hfmut, E lestek`tcy rgjgjfgr bej shyeko, Lmkt wmrry ea wg ogt hrrgstgl. E
bhvg `mkth`ts. Wk`grthek ma tbg gaag`tevgkgss ma tbg `mkth`ts ma h Fretesb lm`tmr ma
je`rmfemcmoy, E lel wmrry. Fecc hkl Ve`bhrl wmucl fg tmogtbgr. E wmucl fg hcmkg._mjgk uklgr hrrgst hrg sgphrhtgl armj jgk, hkl h smcethry Gjerhte-stycg dhec
gxpgregk`g whs kmt mk jy cest ma just lm fgamrg E cgat Lufhe.
Mk chkl, h ahvmuretg pch`g tm gs`hpg tm whs tbg Hvehtemk @cuf, mwkgl fy
Lufhe Luty Argg. Ek hlletemk tm bmuseko tbg Lufhe \gkkes Pthleuj, orh`gl fy
smjg ma tbg wmrcls tmp pchygrs hs h whrj-up vgkug fgamrg tbg sghsmk prmpgr, ets
httrh`temks ek`culg h tgjpgrhturg-`mktrmccgl mutselg pmmc `mjpcgtg wetb h swej-tm
fhr, surrmuklgl fy rg`cekeko suk fgls hkl sbhlgl fy phcj trggs. \bgrg wgrg tbg
aurtbgr pcghsurgs ma twm rgsthurhkt-`uj-fhr `mjpcgxgs, @gktury Qecchog hkl Eresb
Qecchog, wetb jgkus hkl juse` tm suet gvgry thstg9 tbgsg wgrg surphssgl fy \bg
@gcchr h `mktgjpmrhry hkl rgchxgl rgsthurhkt, maagreko quhcety amml hkl wekg
cest, wetb gquhccy ejprgssevg l`mr4 ets sthekgl ochss weklmws hllgl h tmu`b ma h
jglegvhc oueclbhcc. Hs h bhkly rgtrght armj tbg ocetzy aevg sthr gvmcveko wmrcl ma
Lufhe, et whs ekvhcuhfcg.
85
7/27/2019 Way South Of Wahiba Sands - Travels With Wadiman by Adrienne Brady
20/34
Mk tbg mtbgr bhkl, hk hctgrkhtevg hkl gquhccy pmpuchr pch`g tm thig vesetmrs amr
hk gvgkeko mut whs Vmsegs, h @bekgsg rgsthurhkt ek Pbhrdhb, `gcgfrhtgl jmrg amr
`bhrh`tgr tbhk `chss. \m tbes lhy, Pbhrdhb rgjheks tbg mkcy lry Gjerhtg. @cmsg
haaecehtemks wetb Phule Hrhfeh bhvg sggk tm tbht. Gurmpghk vesetmrs ikmwk tm tbg
sthaa wmucl fg whrjcy wgc`mjgl hkl gs`mrtgl tm h s`rggkgl `mrkgr thfcg. \m
h``mjphky tbg amml, pmts ma rgl tgh wgrg mk maagr. Peppgl armj pmr`gchektgh`ups, tbg frgw bhl tbg ukjesthighfcg tgxturg hkl thstg ma rgl wekg.
Fut Vmsegs bhl jmrg mk maagr tbhk rgl tgh. Mk mkg m``hsemk, h ougst bhl h
surpresg gk`muktgr wetb h s`hktecy `chl @bekgsg oerc, wbm leshppghrgl hs que`icy
hs sbg bhl hppghrgl armj h jystgremus sg`mkl lmmrwhy tm tbg chlegs cmm.
Ekvgsteohtemks rgvghcgl h stherwhy cghleko tm hk uppgr acmmr, wbgrg mkg `hk mkcy
ougss wbht ahvmurs jeobt bhvg fggk hvhechfcg.
Et whs wbgk wg dmekgl tbg Hfu Lbhfe Khturhc Bestmry Ormup tbht amrhys ektm
surrmukleko lgsgrt hkl jmukthekmus tgrrhek tmmi pch`g, prgphreko tbg why amreklgpgklgkt trhvgcs. \bg maa-rmhl rmutg tm tbg ghst `mhst rgsmrt ma Audherhb armj
tbg jmst kmrtbgrk Gjerhtg, Vhs hc Ibhejhb, h`rmss tbg dhoogl pghis ma tbg
_gstgrk Bhdhr Vhkog, tbrmuob _hle Feb hkl _hle Ibhf Pbhjse, hllgl tm tbg
pcghsurg ma h wggigkl hwhy armj tbg gvgr-ormweko `mkogstemk ek tbg Ouca
Gjerhtgs. \bg rmutg kmt mkcy tgstgl maa-rmhl lreveko sieccs tbg argqugk`y ma
gk`muktgreko cmsg ahccgk fmuclgrs armj achsb acmmleko, sullgk `bhkogs ek
lerg`temk hkl ek`rghsgs ek orhlegkt tbrmuob khrrmw prg`epetmus omrogs shw tm tbht
wbecg ets phsshog tbrmuob smjg ma tbg beobgst pghis hkl jmukthek pchtghus ma
tbg Hrhfehk ^gkeksuch prmvelgl frghtb-thieko hkl ukamrogtthfcg vegws.Armj h bestmre`hc pgrspg`tevg, Audherhbs `mhsthc pmsetemk whs pevmthc. Amrts
hkl furehc ormukls, smjg lhteko fh`i tm tbg amurtb jeccgkkeuj F@, bmcl jhky
sg`rgts ma tbg phst. Mk mkg m``hsemk wbgk `hjpeko mvgr h wggigkl, wg sgt up mur
tgkt kgxt tm h tujfcg ma rm`is mk hk mtbgrwesg gjpty fgh`b. \bg amccmweko
jmrkeko, wg wgrg surpresgl hkl smjgwbht ukkgrvgl tm les`mvgr tbht wg bhl scgpt
hcmkoselg h furehc ormukl.
\bes phrt ma tbg kmrtbgrk `mhstcekg hk hrgh ma hrrevhcs hkl lgphrturgs es
cettgrgl wetb hk`egkt furehc ormukls. Ek Leffh, h 0> jgtrg cmko tmjf armj tbg Ermk
Hog bhs fggk les`mvgrgl ek hk Eschje` orhvgyhrl. Aurtbgr les`mvgregs ek`culglsigcgtmks, arhojgkts ma pmttgry, jgthc hrrmwbghls hkl mtbgr hrtgah`ts lhteko fh`i
tm ht cghst 8,>>> F@, hs wgcc hs Bgccgkeste` peg`gs ma pmttgry hkl sjhccgr rmukl
tmjfs. Bmwgvgr, tbg jmst sthrtceko aekl whs tbht ma h vhst orhvgyhrl wbgrg `cmsg
tm tgk tbmushkl pgmpcg hrg furegl. Phel tm fg tbg setg ma hk hk`egkt fhttcg amuobt ek
HL 100, et jhrigl tbg chst sthkl ma cm`hc pgmpcg hohekst Eschj hkl tbg aekhc sthog
ma tbg Juscej `mkqugst ma tbg Hrhfehk ^gkeksuch.
Mk`g ahjgl ek tbg hk`egkt wmrcl hs h orght `ety, Leffhs prhesgs wgrg suko fy
tbg pmgt Hfu Fhir ek tbg @hcepbs `murt ek Fhoblhl. \bg pmgj tmcl ma hk hk`egkt
`ety wetb re`bgs fgymkl `mjphrg. Hcmko wetb Audherhb, Leffh whs lgstekgl tm
fg`mjg h aevg sthr rgsmrt.
Aurtbgrgxpgletemksek`culgl treps tbrmuob whles tm vhremus mhsgs, ek`culekoCewh
\bg _elg Qhccgy, mk tbg glog maVuf hcIbhce \bg Gjpty Xuhrtgr, mk`g h ceag
shveko `hrhvhk stmpmvgr amr trhlgrs hkl trhvgccgrs armj Mjhk hkl Phule Hrhfeh.
6>
7/27/2019 Way South Of Wahiba Sands - Travels With Wadiman by Adrienne Brady
21/34
Hkmtbgr ahvmuretg rmutg tbrmuob tbg ukspmect lukgs hkl rm`i amrjhtemks ma _hle
Hc Ahyh, `ucjekhtgs ekDgfgc Jhcgebhb Amssec Vm`i. \bes hptcy khjgl, lrhjhte`
cejgstmkg mut rmp, rgsgjfceko tbg sbhpg hkl amrj ma h oeohkte` prgbestmre`
`rghturg reseko armj surrmukleko lukgs ma shkls, fg`hjg h ahvmuretg pe`ke` spmt
hkl pch`g tm bukt amr amssecs tbht kgvgr ahecgl tm lgceobt vesetmrs.
\bgrg wgrg tejgs wbgk cmkogr, uk`bhrtgl maa-rmhl gxpgletemks prmvgl tm fgjmrg ma h `bhccgkog tbhk gxpg`tgl. Et whs wbgk jy lhuobtgr Dustekg hkl bgr
busfhkl, Hklrgw, spgkt h lhy truklceko tbrmuob lgsgrt whles hkl h keobt ek
Ve`bhrls hogl hkl prgvemuscy uktgstgl amur jhk tgkt tbht Hklrgw `brestgkgl
Ve`bhrl _hlejhk. \bg tgkt whs sm `mkaekgl hkl mvgrbghtgl armj tbg sukfhigl
shkl fgkghtb tbht Dustekg spgkt tbg orghtgr phrt ma tbg keobt `bhk`eko gk`muktgrs
wetb s`mrpemks, skhigs mr aghrsmjg spelgrs setteko ek h `hkvhs `bher uklgr tbg
sthrs.
Aekhccy, strhkog kghrfy s`uaacgs hkl `regs lrmvg bgr fh`i tm sbhrg tbg tgkts
shagty hkl les`mjamrts, wbe`b kmw ek`culgl h `bmrus ma bghvy frghtbeko hklskmrgs. Vg`mjpgksg whs h`begvgl tbg amccmweko jmrkeko wbgk, hatgr truklceko
tbrmuob jmrg whles, wg `hjg upmk hk mhses wetb pmmcs ma whtgr lggp gkmuob amr
h `mmceko maa swej. Bmwgvgr, tbgrg whs hkmtbgr trght ek stmrg. \bg why bmjg
tmmi us tbrmuob rmcceko lukgs. Fmoogl lmwk ek lggp shkl, wg bhl tm fg rgs`ugl,
hkl wgrg tmwgl tm shagty fy smjg ieklcy cm`hcs.
Mk hkmtbgr m``hsemk, mk mur why tm gxpcmrg Cewh Mhses, wg bghlgl ektm tbg
ammtbeccs ma smjg lrhjhte` lukgs amr h `maagg frghi. Pglu`gl fy tbg uktmu`bgl
wekl s`ucptgl lukgs, E sgt maa mk h pbmtm-sbmmt. \ruloeko tbrmuob lggp shkl kmt
ukceig truloeko tbrmuob lggp skmw fut ek jekl-fgkleko tgjpgrhturgs jhlg jgfgoek tm qugstemk jy shkety. \bgk jy ektgktemk ma rgh`beko tbg sujjet whs
ektgrruptgl fy tbg hppghrhk`g ma h ,
wbgk Pucthk Phel fek \hejur whs lgpmsgl hkl Pucthk Xhfmms tmmi pmwgr, Mjhk
whs kmt dust ukikmwk tm tbg mutselg wmrcl fut stecc hcjmst hs `cmsgl hkl cettcg
68
7/27/2019 Way South Of Wahiba Sands - Travels With Wadiman by Adrienne Brady
22/34
ikmwk hs \efgt.8 Gvgk, ek tbg chtg 855>s, tmuresj hs su`b whs ek ets ghrcy sthogs,
hkl chrogcy rgstre`tgl tm lhy treps tm sgcg`tgl setgs armj gjgroeko bmtgcs ek Jus`ht
hkl Kezwh. Mur ektgrgst whs aurtbgr bgeobtgkgl armj rghleko ^becep Hccarggs
_hrcmrls ma Mjhk. Mk `mktrh`t tm tbg Pucthk ma Mjhks Hrjgl Amr`gs armj 857?
tm 8516, bes amrtbreobt, bujmrmus hkl `mcmurauc h``mukts ma gxpgregk`gs trhekeko
hkl cghleko cm`hc jgk smjg armj h Fglmuek trefg wetb h cmko bestmry ma lgsgrtperh`y ek httgjpts tm thig `mktrmc ma Mjhks jmukthekmus ektgremr hllgl h
`grthek aressmk tm mur pchkkgl gxpgletemks. H veset tm Mjhk whs beob mk tbg
hogklh.
8 Dmbk Fuccm`i, \bg Ouca
66
7/27/2019 Way South Of Wahiba Sands - Travels With Wadiman by Adrienne Brady
23/34
Mjhk
\bg ejpgtus tbht lrmvg \bgseogr hkl tbg trhvgccgrs fgamrg bej ektm tbg lgsgrt
tbg sghr`b amr smjgtbeko tejgcgss wetbek tbgjsgcvgs bhs survevgl.
Hkl mk`g tbg gkoekg es turkgl maa hkl tbg `hr es bellgk ek tbg sbhlmws,
pgrbhps gvgk tbg jmlgrk trhvgccgr `hk lgtg`t tbg ahektgst s`gkt ma wbht tbg
gxpcmrgrs agct ek tbg cequel fch`ikgss ma h lgsgrt keobt.
Hklrgw \hycmr, \rhvgcceko tbg Phkls
60
7/27/2019 Way South Of Wahiba Sands - Travels With Wadiman by Adrienne Brady
24/34
\bg Dgfgc Hiblhr
\bg Cequel Fch`ikgss ma Lgsgrt Keobts,
M`tmfgr 8552
_g wgrgk't omeko ektm tbg lgsgrt fut wg wgrg omeko ektm tbg jmuktheks tbht
fmrlgr tbg lgsgrt, sbhrg tbger orght fhrrgk wmklgr hkl iggp tbgj ht fhy. _g
bmpgl tm aekl tbg shjg sgksg ma cequel fch`ikgss, gxpgregk`gl fy phst gxpcmrgrs ek
tbg rgjmtgkgss ma keobts ek tbg orght `hkymks tbht sgvgr Mjhks Dgfgc Hiblhr9 tbg
beobgst jmuktheks ma tbg Bhdhr Vhkog, tbgy gxtgkl ek h orght 7>> jecg hr` hcmko
tbg `mhst, lmjekhteko tbg chkls`hpg. \rhvgcceko ek tbg Pshkoymko-Jussm ph`igl
wetb h twm jhk tgkt, h `mmc-fmx ma suppcegs, fmttcgs ma armzgk whtgr, `hjgrhs
hkl mur maa-rmhl fefcg6 wg wgrg gs`hpeko armj tbg kmesg, pmccutemk hkl
`mkogstemk ma \bgseogr's ormweko Hrhfehk Keobtjhrg amr hk gk`muktgr wetb tbg
weclgrkgss.
Ekchkl gxpcmrhtemks tbrmuob tbg Gjerhtgs tm Audherhb mk tbg ghst `mhst bhl
ahjecehresgl us wetb tbg sthrt ma mur dmurkgy armj Lufhe, tbrmuob tbg _gstgrk
Bhdhr tm tbg ghstgrk fmrlgr pmst ektm Mjhk. Armj h lesthk`g, tbg mutcekgs ma tbgsg
jmuktheks bhvg tbg jhokgte` hppghc tbht hcc jmuktheks bhvg amr jg, ektgkseaegl
wbgk tbger sbhlmws hrg aerst ocejpsgl h`rmss ekaeketg strgt`bgs ma aghturgcgss
lgsgrt pcheks4 tbgy tuo mk tbg speret hs tbgy tuo mk tbg gygs. @cmsg up bmwgvgr,hctbmuob tbgy bhvg fmtb orhklgur ma sezg hkl lrhjh ma amrj, tbger fhrrgk scmpgs
ma cmmsg s`rgg rgsgjfcg vhst scho bghps. Ermke`hccy, tbes es dust wbht tbgy hrg4 scho
bghps ma chvh, surrmukleko h jhokeae`gkt grmlgl cejgstmkg `bhek, tbrust armj tbg
m`ghk's acmmr hkl rukkeko phrhccgc tm tbg Ouca ma Mjhk.
Ibmr Ihcfh, h telhc `rggi ht tbg smutbgrkjmst tep ma tbg Gjerhtgs ghstgrk
`mhstcekg, es tbg setg ma mkg ma tbg mclgst jhkormvg amrgsts ek Hrhfeh. Ets `cmsgkgss
tm tbg fmrlgr wetb Mjhk jhlg et hk elghc pch`g tm stmp amr h pe`ke` cuk`b. Ek tbg
sbhlg ma h obha trgg hjmko h thkocg ma rmmts hkl lregl jul-achts ht tbg whtgrs
glog, wg aecc orhkhry rmccs wetb sce`gs ma `bggsg hkl tmjhtm hkl pmur `maagg armj hachsi. _etbek sg`mkls, hkl mut ma kmwbgrg, wg hrg fmjfhrlgl fy h wberceko jhss
ma acegs.
_bgk Ve`bhrls rgjgly ma jhieko rhpel wrest-ace`ieko `er`cgs wetb tbg bhkl
fgamrg httgjpteko tm tbrust jmrsgcs ma amml ektm tbg jmutb ahecs tm lesgkohog tbg
lgtgrjekgl ekvhlgrs, wg levg ektm tbg `hr. \bg uktejgcy htth`i rgjekls us tbht
khturg es cgss tbhk pgrag`t. Hctbmuob et whs tbg gkl ma M`tmfgr, tgjpgrhturgs ek tbg
beob tbertegs hkl mpprgssevg bujelety wgrg pgrsesteko. _heteko amr wektgr ek tbg
Jellcg Ghst es ceig wheteko amr spreko ek Gurmpg. Et kgvgr `mjgs, fut wbgk et lmgset es vgry bghvgk.
Pgrvgs hs h ferl-belg, Ve`bhrl hkkmuk`gl, strgt`beko amr bes fekm`uchrs. Purg
gkmuob, armj mur her-`mkletemkgl `hpsucg hkl wetb tbg hel ma bes fekm`uchrs, wg
6 Bgekgr Icgek hkl Vgfg``h Fre`ismk, Maa-Vmhl ek Mjhk
6
7/27/2019 Way South Of Wahiba Sands - Travels With Wadiman by Adrienne Brady
25/34
wgrg hfcg tm wht`b wbetg `mcchrgl iekoaesbgrs mpgrhteko armj h kghrfy trgg, hkl
tbg stmp hkl sthrt jmvgjgkts ma whlgrs wetb jht`bste`i cgos mk tbg jul-achts, hs
wgcc hs m``hsemkhc aesb cghpeko tm hvmel uksggk prgy, mr tm `ht`b h jghc ma tbger
mwk.
\bg pchk whs tm gktgr Mjhk tbrmuob tbg Ibhtjht Jhchbh fmrlgr pmst hkl
amccmw tbg aerst sthog ma h chrogcy `er`uchr `mursg tbht fgoeks bghleko smutb hcmkotbg `mhsthc pchek fgtwggk tbg Bhdhr Jmuktheks hkl tbg Ouca ma Mjhk, fgamrg
turkeko ekchkl tbrmuob tbg Pujhec Ohp. \bes ohp mr whle amrjgl wbgk hk
hk`egkt revgr `hrvgl tbg mkcy khturhc phsshog fgtwggk tbg _gstgrk hkl Ghstgrk
Bhdhr Vhkog wmucl thig us wgst, tm wbgrg tbg ammtbeccs ma tbg _gstgrk Bhdhr
fmrlgr tbg vhst pcheks hkl lukgs ma \bg Gjpty Xuhrtgr, fgamrg jhrieko tbg ekchkl
rmutg kmrtb, fh`i tmwhrls tbg Gjerhtgs. Mk tbg jhp, et cmmigl hs ea et bhl fggk
pchkkgl fy smjgmkg tbrmweko h chssm hrmukl tbg jmuktheks. Et whs tbg lgtmurs maa
tbes rmutg, wbgrg tbg arhygl glogs ma tbg chssm pgkgtrhtg tbg orght `hkymks, tbht wg
wgrg iggk tm gxpcmrg.
\bg aerst sthog ma tbg dmurkgy smutb, h`rmss smjg twm buklrgl iecmjgtrgs ma acht
`mhsthc pchek, lesthk`gl armj fmtb jmuktheks hkl sgh, frmuobt tm jekl ^becep
Hccarggs lgs`reptemk ma tbg why ma ceag ek hk esmchtgl chkls`hpg ma lhtg-phcj
ormvgs, ektgrspgrsgl wetb h su``gssemk ma fhrhste sgttcgjgkts ma smjg amrty yghrs
hom4
lrhpgl wetb aesbeko kgts tbgy pgr`bgl prg`hremuscy mk lukgs ma shkl cekeko tbg shct achts ma
tbg `mhsthc pchek9 ht rgouchr 7> jecg ektgrvhcs tbgrg whs h tmwk wetb h jhrigt hkl jmsqug hkl h
jul `hstcg ek wbe`b sht tbg Pucthks Omvgrkmr lespgkseko duste`g hkl `mccg`teko frefgs.
_hrcmrls ma Mjhk
Kmw tbg lrhekgl hkl `uctevhtgl Fhtekhb `mhst jhrigl fy hrghs ma ektgksg
orggkbmusg `uctevhtemk hkl pchkthtemks ma lhtg phcjs hkl fhkhkhs es aurkesbgl
wetb h sjmmtb thr rmhl. _g wgrg gkdmyeko tbg sgksg ma sph`g hkl kmte`ghfcg ch`i
ma `mkogstemk hkl hoorgssemk mk tbg rmhls, ek`rghsekocy prgvhcgkt ek tbg Gjerhtgs.
Aekhccy, hatgr trhvgcceko amr smjg geobt bmurs, tbg turk maa amr mur aerst sthoeko pmst tbg hk`egkt `hpethc ma Vusthq whs fgamrg us.
Lwhragl fy streleko pycmks, wg acgw hcmko tbg strheobt fch`i thrjh` rmhl,
`bhseko h su``gssemk ma jerhogs tbht curgl us ekchkl h`rmss tbg welg orhvgc pchek
tmwhrls tbg hk`egkt sgttcgjgkt. Mk`g hk ejpmrthkt trhleko `gktrg, ouhrleko rmutgs
ektm tbg jmuktheks, et whs ikmwk amr h ocmremus, ea fcmmly, phst. Hcc ma h sullgk,
wg sgksgl tbht mur hlvgkturgs wgrg hfmut tm fgoek. H acggteko mutcekg ma Hc Bhzj
`hstcg hppghrgl hkl leshppghrgl hs sbhlmws ma jmuktheks, tbht bhl rgjhekgl cettcg
jmrg tbhk h lrghj mk tbg bmrezmk amr tbg phst bmurs, rusbgl tmwhrls us. Kmt mkg
rmw fut rmw upmk rmw, `bhkoeko armj orgy tm frmwk tm lusiy purpcg. \bgkjmlgrk Vusthq, sprghl hcmko tbg ammtbeccs, ocmwgl cujekgs`gkt wbetg ek chtg
hatgrkmmk sukceobt. Hs wg `er`cgl tbg lgvgcmpjgkt, thkthceseko ocejpsgs ma tbg
jhokeae`gkt rgstmrgl amrt hkl bmkgy `mcmurgl whccs ma tbg mcl sgttcgjgkt bhl tm fg
dust ocejpsgs, wetb tbg prmjesg ma h rgturk veset.
67
7/27/2019 Way South Of Wahiba Sands - Travels With Wadiman by Adrienne Brady
26/34
_g wgrg cmmieko amr tbg gktrhk`g tm _hle Fhke Hwa, h whle tbht wmucl cghl
us tm mur aerst `hjpeko spmt amr tbg keobt.
Qggreko smutb-ghst hcmko h welg acmmlpchek uklgr hk ejpg``hfcy fcug chtg gvgkeko
siy, fgtwggk rmws ma tectgl jmuktheks hcevg wetb lggpgkeko sbhlmws, et whspmssefcg tm ejhoekg tbg orekleko ma pchtgs hkl tbg oehkt upbghvhc tbht pusbgl tbes
jmukthek `bhek cmpselglcy, ek`b fy ek`b, armj tbg m`ghk acmmr. Ceig h jeobty
sthccemk ma tbg omls, tbg jmst lrhjhte` rghrgl fgamrg us armj h dujfcg ma pghis.
Pecbmugttgl hohekst tbg ahleko siy, et prgsgktgl mkg jhokeae`gkt stggpcy scmpeko
achki, rgh`beko smjg 6,>>> jgtrgs. Armj tbg ikeag-glog, tbg mtbgr selg agcc hwhy
ek h sgregs ma ohrohktuhk stgps. \bgk ht chst, ek ormweko lhrikgss, prmppgl ek h
tujfcg ma rm`is ht tbg rmhlselg, h seok tmmi sbhpg ek mur sghr`beko bghlceobts.
Fhke Hwa, E `hccgl.
\urkeko tbg Jussm ht reobt hkocgs, tyrgs `ruk`beko mvgr pgffcgs, Ve`bhrlbghlgl h`rmss tbg stmky pchek tmwhrls h fch`i scet ek tbg jmukthek's whcc. Ht tbg
sthrt ma tbg khrrmw `hkymk, tbg acmmr ma pgffcgs ek`rghsgl ek sezg hkl lgptb,
fg`mjeko ek`rghsekocy uksthfcg. _g sceppgl hkl rmccgl hkl rujfcgl h`rmss tbg
cmsg surah`g. Bhkoeko ceig pgtreaegl `urtheks, rm`i selgs `bhkogl tm pmcesbgl
futtrgssgs wetb buog wmjf-ceig pm`igts ma cmmsg s`rgg, tbgk tm vgrte`hc whccs ma
sglejgkthry chygrs ma shkl lg`mrhtgl wetb sjhcc stmkgs.
Et whs hs ea, ceig h lejekesbgl Hce`g ek _mklgrchkl, wg wgrg phsseko tbrmuob h
pgrag`tcy sce`gl hkl phrtgl sgojgkt ma `urrhkt `hig. Ek pch`gs wbgrg tbg `hkymk
whccs wgrg aurtbgr hphrt, pht`bgs ma rggls, orhssgs hkl sbhccmw pmmcs jhrigl tbg`mursg ma h strghjfgl. Ocmweko ceig `hklcgs, lusiy fcmmjs ma peki mcghklgr cekgl
mur rmutg. Jhssevg fmuclgrs, rgsgjfceko tbg `rhkeujs ma \ethks tmssgl tm tbg whle
acmmr, lrgw mur gygs up tbg lhri selgs tm tbg phcg strghj ma siy hkl cgat us
wmklgreko ea tbgy bhl fggk swgpt lmwkstrghj ek wektgr acmmls wbgk whtgr
ousbgl armj shturhtgl rm`i whccs, mr ea tbgy `hjg burtceko lmwk armj mvgrbghl.
Pullgkcy, h rmw ma lhtg phcjs hppghrgl hkl fgbekl tbgj sgvgrhc jmrg
ormweko mk sjhcc tgrrh`gs, `ut ektm tbg selg ma tbg becc hkl suppmrtgl fy whccs ma
stmkgs. H rmuob `gjgkt-ceig `bhkkgc hfmut h ammt beob, amccmweko tbg tmp ma tbg
beobgst whcc, `hrregl whtgr tm tbg phcjs hkl tm h sjhcc sgttcgjgkt pgr`bgl mk hcglog hfmvg tbg whle acmmr.
\bg hachd systgj ma `bhkkgcceko whtgr trhppgl ek tbg uppgr cgvgcs ma h
jmukthek tm erreohtg tgrrh`gl `rmps es h trhletemk sm mcl tbht hk Mjhke cgogkl
httrefutgs ets mreoek tm Pmcmjmk, smk ma Lhvel, wbm vesetgl Mjhk mk bes jhoe`
`hrpgt hkl `husgl bes ldekks (sperets) tm `mkstru`t tgk tbmushkl whtgr `bhkkgcs ek
tgk lhys. Bmwgvgr, et whs lureko tbg pgreml ma ^grsehk `mktrmc tbht jhky ma tbg
aekgst uklgrormukl hachd systgjs, sejechr tm tbg qhkhtek ^grseh, wgrg `mkstru`tgl.
H ormup ma wmjgk hkl `beclrgk ohtbgrgl rmukl h whtgreko pch`g sjecgl hkl
whvgl tm us hs wg rujfcgl fy.
Mur prmorgss tbrmuob tbg `hkymk whs jhrigl fy aurtbgr sgttcgjgkts hjmko
khrrmw tgrrh`gs ma lhtg phcjs, wbgrgvgr tbg selgs ma tbg `hkymk hccmwgl. \bgk,
dust hs mur maa-rmhl fefcg prmjesgl, ht hpprmxejhtgcy tgk iecmjgtrgs armj tbg sthrt,
tbg rm`i whccs mpgkgl mut hkl wg amukl mursgcvgs amccmweko tbg jghklgreko fgl
ma h strghj. \m mkg selg, h orght fmwc bhl fggk `hrvgl mut ma tbg whcc ma rm`i hkl
61
7/27/2019 Way South Of Wahiba Sands - Travels With Wadiman by Adrienne Brady
27/34
tbg whle acmmr strgt`bgl armj selg tm selg amr 8>> jgtrgs. _g jhlg amr h buog
obha trgg, sthkleko ouhrl kghr h tujfcg ma rm`is mk tbg ahr, lry hkl jmrg sbgctgrgl
selg.
\bg te`ieko ma tbg `mmceko gkoekg whs jht`bgl fy tbg buj ma eksg`ts fusy ek
tbg orght cghay `hkmpy ma mur trgg. Buog hkl bmrkgt-ceig, jhrigl fy rgl hkl
ygccmw fhkls hkl wetb pmccgk sh`is, lestek`t hs `bejkgy swggpgrs' frusbgs mktbger lhkoceko cgos, tbgy bmvgrgl hrmukl us ceig lesmregkthtgl jeke bgce`mptgrs.
Pullgkcy, tbg smukl ma vme`gs g`bmgl armj h lesthkt whle. \bgk tbg `ruk`beko ma
wbggcs mvgr stmkgs g`bmgl tmm, uktec h pe`i-up tru`i hppghrgl. @ht`beko up wetb
ets smukl, et tmwgl et ektm tbg sbhlmws. _becg Ve`bhrl `cghrgl h pht`b ma tbg
sbhrpgst acekt-ceig stmkgs, E struoocgl wetb tbg `mcchpsefcg spekgs ma mur tgkt
wesbeko, kmt amr tbg aerst tejg, tbht et whs mkg ma tbg eksthkt pmp-up vhregtegs.
Ve`bhrls Hare`hk weclgrkgss upfrekoeko jghkt tbht bg sbhrgl kmkg ma jy
aghrs ma lghlcy hkejhc hkl eksg`t ceag, fut bg lel kursg bes mwk aghrs ma htth`i fy
ukaregklcy trefgs. Ek spetg ma jy prmtgsts, hkl ek spetg ma et fgeko tbg chtg twgktegtb`gktury, E ikgw tbht tbgsg aghrs wgrg kmt gktergcy ukamuklgl. Gvgry Gurmpghk
hlvgkturgr's h``mukt ma trhvgcs ek Hrhfeh lgs`refg tbg `mksthkt aghr ma htth`i fy
whrreko hrjgl trefgs hkl, ek smjg eksthk`gs, fy tbmsg khtevgs phel tm ouelg tbgj.
Mtbgrs lelk't survevg tm tgcc tbger thcgs.
Gvgk tbg ektrgpel \bgseogr, hatgr bes trhvgcs tm tbg wgstgrk selg ma Mjhks
Bhdhr Jmuktheks, `mkaerjs mkg mr twm khrrmw gs`hpgs armj trefhc gcgjgkts ektgkt
mk rgh`teko tm tbg ektrusemk ma h amrgeokgr. Vmkhcl @mlrhe tgccs tbg stmry ma tbg
hjusgjgkt bg `husgl fy bereko wgcc-ikmwk fhklets hs bes ouelgs ek tbg chtg
85s. Bg `hjg tm km bhrj, hkl aurtbgrjmrg tgccs us tbht tbg ekahjmus Pbgeib matbg Fhke Veyhj trefg luffgl 'Cmrl ma tbg Orggk Jmukthek', fg`husg bes trefg's
bhfetht ek`culgl tbg 5,2>> ammt-beob Dgfgc Pbhjs, Jmukthek ma tbg Puk ekvetgl
bej tm h``mjphky bej fh`i tm bes jmukthek bmjg4 hk maagr bg rgorgttgl tbht bg
whs ukhfcg tm h``gpt.
Ek jmrg rg`gkt tejgs, ek bes h``mukt ma bes 8558 sghr`b amr tbg cmst `ety ma Wfhr
ek tbg lgsgrt rgoemk ma smutbgrk Mjhk, Per Vhkuca Aegkkgs gk`muktgrgl cm`hc
trefgsjgk, wbm wgrg cgss tbhk aregklcy, hkl hrjgl wetb Ihchsbkeimvs tbht bhl
rgpch`gl trhletemkhc wghpmks. \brmuobmut tbg wmrcl, jmuktheks bhvg fg`mjg tbg
rgtrght ma rgfgcs, kmtmremus amr aeobteko tm iggp tbger eklgpgklgk`g hkl argglmj,hkl tm prmtg`t tbger tgrretmry. Mjhk whs km gx`gptemk.
Hs Ve`bhrl fuect h sjhcc aerg ekselg h `er`cg ma stmkgs hkl mur surrmuklekos
lrhekgl ektm lhrikgss, wg wht`bgl tbg bhca-jmmk hkl Jhrs ormw freobtgr. \bgk,
scmwcy ht aerst, jmrg sthrs hppghrgl uktec wetb h sullgk secgkt rusb, tbg chig ma siy
whs tbrmffeko wetb dgwgccgl ceobts.
Jmrkeko rgvghcgl tbg hk`egkt fghuty ma mur trgg. Et cmmigl mclgr tbhk tejg. Armj
ets rmmtfmwc, tbg okhrcgl truki whs `cgat ek twm9 armj gh`b fhsg sgphrhtg bmrky
hrjs twestgl hkl strgt`bgl ek mppmsetg lerg`temks amr sgvgrhc jgtrgs, fgamrg
turkeko siywhrls ek h jhokeae`gkt ogsturg ma suppce`htemk. Ets vhst `rmwk ma
cghvgs tbrujjgl wetb eksg`t ceag. \bg lggpcy ekorhekgl fhri ma h bmrezmkthc truki,
lg`mrhtgl wetb hrteste` wbmrcs hkl acmuresbgs, prmvelgl `mkvgkegkt, ea kmt
`mjamrthfcg sghteko hkl sbgca sph`g.
6?
7/27/2019 Way South Of Wahiba Sands - Travels With Wadiman by Adrienne Brady
28/34
Bmt whtgr amr jmrkeko tgh whs smmk fmeceko mk mur kgw Bhec sekocg ohs furkgr4
h les`mvgry tbht lgsgrvgs gvgry pmssefcg jhrigteko `ce`b. Hs wg jhlg hkl
seppgl mur frgw, tbg mutcekgs ma twm wmjgk hppghrgl. _ghreko bghvy turfhks hkl
`chl ek freobtcy `mcmurgl shrmko-typg ohrjgkts, tbgy wgrg jhieko tbger why
h`rmss tbg whle. \bger wgcc-rmuklgl aeourgs hkl tbg buog turfhks wrhppgl rmukl
hkl pecgl mk tbger bghls, rhesgl qugstemks hfmut tbger mreoeks. _grg tbgylgs`gklhkts armj Hare`hks, frmuobt tm Mjhk wbgk Mjhke rucg gxtgklgl armj
Thkzefhr tm phrts ma ^grseh hkl ^hiesthk=
\bgk, hs ea h ceobt bhl fggk swet`bgl mk, sukceobt acmmlgl tbg `hkymk hkl tbg
wmjgk hkl tbger bestmry wgrg omkg. Ht tbg shjg tejg, ferlsmko whs rgpch`gl fy
tbg lgjgktgl sbregieko ma `e`hlhs. Bght whs up hkl et whs tejg tm fg mk tbg
jmvg.
_g amccmwgl tbg trh`i amr h aurtbgr amur iecmjgtrgs tm tbg gkl ma tbg whle,
wbgrg et lesektgorhtgl hkl spcet. Hssujeko tbht tbg dust lestekouesbhfcg tyrg jhris,
amrieko rmuobcy ek mppmsetg lerg`temks, rgprgsgktgl tbg \-duk`temk ek mur ouelgfmmi, wg tmmi tbg reobt-bhkl frhk`b. Ea wg wgrg mk tbg `mrrg`t trh`i, et sbmucl
cghl us tm tbg vecchog ma Fechl Phyt tbg amrteaegl jmukthek vecchog `chejgl amr tbg
Phule-fh`igl Ejhj ek 857?. @cejfeko stghlecy mk h shkly trhec tbht siertgl tbg
selg ma h jmukthek, wg wgrg kmw phrt ma tbg mutgr chkls`hpg.
H sgksg ma rgcega ht fgeko rgcghsgl armj tbg hwgsmjg hkl, ek rgtrmspg`t,
mpprgssevg aggceko ek tbg lgptbs ma tbg `hkymk swgpt tbrmuob jg. Fgamrg us,
cmpselgl pghis tujfcgl ektm tbg lesthk`g. Ht mtbgr tejgs, mur vegw whs fcm`igl
fy tbg ektejelhteko whccs ma mur ejjglehtg tgrrhek, hkl tbgk, hs tbg selgs agcc
hwhy, tbg phkmrhjh mpgkgl up, maagreko h `mksthktcy `bhkoeko ihcgelms`mpg madhoogl scmpgs, lggp `bhsjs hkl m``hsemkhc ocejpsgs ma sgttcgjgkts ormweko mut
ma tbg beccselg. Hctbmuob E lrghjgl ma sggeko tbg gcgohkt amrj ma hk mryx sthkleko
mk h rm`iy cglog hs wg turkgl gh`b `mrkgr, E bhl tm fg `mktgkt wetb tbg m``hsemkhc
omht kejfcy pe`ieko ets why mvgr rm`is.
Mkg jekutg wg wgrg `cejfeko, hkl tbg kgxt wg amukl mursgcvgs rh`eko
lmwkbecc. Mk mkg swet`bfh`i `mrkgr, ek mrlgr tm hvmel hk mcl jhk ikggceko mk bes
prhygr jht ek tbg jellcg ma tbg trh`i, mr burtceko mvgr tbg prg`epetmus glog ea wg
httgjptgl tm swgrvg rmukl bej, Ve`bhrl bhl tm pucc ek sbhrpcy tm tbg jmukthek
whcc. _g dullgrgl tm h bhct, tbg fujpgr rgsteko mk tbg rm`i ah`g. Wklmuftglcy, etwhs mkg ma mur kekg cevgs shvgl. \bg mcl jhk, tmm, just bhvg bhl bghvgkcy
tbmuobts. P`rhjfceko tm bes aggt, bg ogsturgl ek h achppeko jmvgjgkt mvgr bes
bghrt fgamrg ceateko bes jht tm cgt us phss.
Pbuirhk. \bhki ymu, Ve`bhrl `hccgl. Pmrry tm areobtgk ymu, bg hllgl,
bmpeko tbg mcl jhk wmucl uklgrsthkl.
Hs wg cgat, bes fgkt aeourg prhygr jht rmccgl uklgr bes hrj whs burryeko
hcmko tbg trh`i. Ek tbg lesthk`g, h pchkthtemk ma lhtg phcjs pekpmektgl h sgttcgjgkt
kghr tbg whle fmttmj.
Pkhig Omrog, Ve`bhrl gkceobtgkgl jg. Jmstcy bhrjcgss, bg `mktekugl, hs h
`mjamrteko hatgrtbmuobt. Gvgk vgkmjmus mkgs leshppghr hkl sthy bellgk wbgk
tbgy sgksg hk ektrulgr. \bgy streig mkcy wbgk surpresgl.
E whskt `mkvek`gl. El lmkg jy bmjgwmri. Mjhk whs bmjg tm h omml
kujfgr ma vgkmjmus skhigs, spg`ejgks wetb bekogl armkt ahkos `mjpgtgl amr
agrm`ety wetb tbmsg wetb aexgl ahkos. Jy cest ma tbmsg fgst hvmelgl ek`culgl tbg
62
7/27/2019 Way South Of Wahiba Sands - Travels With Wadiman by Adrienne Brady
29/34
vgkmjmus bmml-kg`igl `mfrh, h scuooesb puaa hllgr hkl tbg selg-wekleko bmrkgl
vepgr. \bg chttgrs rgputhtemk amr streieko hkl feteko ceig ceobtkeko pch`gl et ht tbg
tmp ma tbg cest. _etb tbgsg cgss tbhk `mjamrteko tbmuobts ek jekl, wg amccmwgl h
lmwkbecc trhec, rujfcgl mvgr tbg strghjfgl jhrieko tbg fmttmj ma Pkhig Omrog,
hkl jhlg h lgat swet`bfh`i turk tm fgoek tbg stggp hs`gkt up h khrrmw trh`i
omuogl mut ma tbg jmukthek whcc.Mk jy selg, tbg vgrte`hc scmpg lrmppgl ektm h lggp omrog. Kmw, tbg rghcety ma
tbg glog wg bhl sm rg`gktcy hvmelgl `mkarmktgl us. Hs ea et wmucl prmtg`t us armj
ahcceko, E whs ek`beko tmwhrls Ve`bhrl hkl httgjpteko, uksu``gssauccy, kmt tm
ejhoekg tbg sgkshtemk. _mucl wg lrmp ceig h fmuclgr tm tbg fmttmj hkl gxpcmlg
ektm arhojgkts ma phek hkl jgthc, tgrrmr hkl fmkg, mr fmuk`g maa tbg rm`i whccs,
spek ceig h `mek hkl chkl Dhjgs Fmkl-stycg, frusbeko tbg lust armj mur `cmtbgs=
Hs kgrvmus hs E whs, tbg `mjpucsemk tm cmmi whs errgsestefcg. Mk tbg mppmsetg selg,
ejprgssevg spcets ek tbg rm`i ah`g twestgl hkl ohpgl, jghsurgcgss `hvgrks mpgkgl
ektm lhrikgss, hkl orght bmrezmkthc `bhsjs tmrg hphrt ek tmrtumus sbhpgs. Et whscettcg wmklgr tbht et tmmi tbg PHP tm aekhccy rgjmvg tbg Cmrl ma tbg Orggk
Jmukthek armj bes ejprgokhfcg strmkobmcl.
Pek`g tbg sthrt ma mur gx`ursemk, tbgrg bhl fggk h kmte`ghfcg hfsgk`g, kmt mkcy
ma weclceag tbht bhs fggk buktgl tm gxtek`temk, fut ma ferls ma prgy. \bes whs tbg
chkls`hpg ma igstrgcs hkl ahc`mks wbggceko hohekst ejpgremus fcug siy, acyeko
tbger sbhlmws mvgr ruoogl pghis. \bg siegs wgrg gjpty, fut et whs gk`murhoeko
tm ikmw tbht pmsetevg jmvgjgkts hrg uklgrwhy ek Mjhk tm prmtg`t, prgsgrvg hkl
rgektrmlu`g khtevg weclceag.
Aekhccy, h seokpmst amr Bht `mkaerjgl tbht wg wgrg mk tbg reobt `mursg. Hatgr hagw buklrgl jgtrgs, h ormup ma phcj hkl obha trggs hkl h wmrk phtbwhy mvgr
rm`is, cghleko tmwhrls h khrrmw omrog, aettgl tbg maa-rmhl lgs`reptemk ma h trhec tm
Fechl Phyt. _etb tbg Jussm skuo ek tbg sbhlg ma h ormup ma phcj trggs, wg
ohtbgrgl mur swejjeko oghr hkl h skh`i cuk`b, hkl sthrtgl tm `cejf tbg pmcesbgl
trhec tmwhrls tbg smukl ma rukkeko whtgr. \bg ek`rghseko orhlegkt ma tbg zeozho
rmutg gklgl hfruptcy fgamrg h ahcc ma whtgr `hs`hleko ektm h pmmc armj h cglog
smjg aevg jgtrgs mvgrbghl. Fgbekl tbg sphriceko `urthek, h dukocg ma agrks hkl
tuatgl orhss sprmutgl armj tbg rm`i ah`g.
_becg wg wgrg sthkleko, rg`mvgreko armj tbg `cejf hkl thieko ek tbg fghutyma tbes ukgxpg`tgl Glgk, armj mut ma kmwbgrg, tbg aeourg ma hk gclgrcy jhk
hppghrgl hkl whs fg`imkeko us amrwhrl. Lrgssgl ek h wbetg lesblhsbh cmko
cmmsg `mcchrcgss, sbert wetb h turfhk fhklhogl mk bes bghl, bg secgktcy cgl us
fgkghtb tbg ahcceko whtgr. Mk tbg ahr selg, wg amccmwgl ek bes ammtstgps hcmko h
pmcesbgl trhec tbht wmukl upbecc tmwhrls tbg gktrhk`g tm h khrrmw omrog, lerg`tcy
mvgr tbg ahccs. E hrrevgl frghtbcgss, dust ek tejg tm sgg tbg mutcekg ma mur ouelg ocelg
ektm lhrikgss hkl tbgk lessmcvg ek tbg arhjg ma freobt sukceobt ht ets ahr gkl. \bg
wbetg ma tbg rmfg, tbg acuel jmvgjgkts, tbg secgk`g et whs hs ea h fefce`hc Hkogc
ma tbg Cmrl bhl fggk sgkt tm h`t hs mur ouelg.
Cgts amccmw, Ve`bhrl shel, cghleko tbg why ektm tbg lhki tukkgc. Ht tbg ahr
gkl, hkmtbgr upbecc sceppgry `cejf tmmi us tm h sjhcc sukcet pchtghu. Mur gtbgrghc
ouelg whs kmwbgrg tm fg sggk, fut wg bhl hrrevgl ht tbg pgrag`t cmmimut pchtamrj.
Arhjgl fy tbg sbggr `ceaas ma Dgfgc Hiblhr, ormweko armj hkl jgcteko ektm tbg
beccselg, whs tbg sgttcgjgkt wg wgrg sghr`beko amr. \bg rg`thkouchr stmkg hkl
65
7/27/2019 Way South Of Wahiba Sands - Travels With Wadiman by Adrienne Brady
30/34
jul-whccgl bmusgs ma Fechl Phyt mvgrcmmigl `uctevhtgl tgrrh`gs tbht fcgklgl ektm
h fh`iormukl ma chtg sujjgr rusts, frmkzg hkl omcl.
\bg pgh`gauc hkl elycce` sgtteko ohvg km bekt ma hk gvgktauc phst. Ptrmkocy
amrteaegl hkl surrmuklgl fy whccs hkl tmwgrs, tbes jmukthek strmkobmcl whs
`chejgl fy \hcef, frmtbgr ma tbg ejhj, wbm whs suppmrtgl fy Ieko Phul. Ek tbg
sujjgr ma 857?, \hcef rhk up bes sthklhrl ht Fechl Phyt hkl prm`chejgl tbgrgstmrhtemk ma tbg Ejhjhtg amr bes frmtbgr, Obhcef fek Hce. \bes `chej ma pmwgr,
suppmrtgl fy Pucgejhk, Cmrl ma tbg Orggk Jmukthek, whs hk h`t ma lgaehk`g tbht
whs tm cghl tm whr hohekst Phel fek \hejur, tbg ruceko sucthk.
Ek rgtrmspg`t, et lel kmt sggj ekhpprmprehtg tm sgg tbg ejhjs amccmwgrs hs
amrgrukkgrs ma tmlhys Eschje` eksurogkts9 hs wgcc hs jhky mk-chkl throgts, tbgy
usgl tejg-fmjfs tm fcmw up sbeps hkl her`rhat. Dust wggis prgvemuscy, E bhl tbg
obmstcy gxpgregk`g ma leveko mk tbg wrg`i ma tbg Lhrh h Fretesb Eklehk Ptghj
@mjphky Cekgr ek tbg Ouca. Ek Hprec 8518, tbg Lhrh whs fcmwk up maa tbg `mhst
kghr Lufhe, `huobt aerg hkl shki, wetb tbg cmss ma sgvgrhc buklrgl cevgs. Ceig`urrgkt-tuoogl pgkkhkts wg lgs`gklgl, bhkl fgcmw bhkl, lmwk h rmpg cghleko tm
tbg hk`bmr cekg hkl gk`rustgl tmjf. Jgjmregs ma ektgksg `mcl, h sbrmul ma kgts,
bghvy wetb h``ujuchtgl lreat, bhkoeko ceig rhoogl `urtheks, hkl gjmtemkcgss
ohpeko aesb, sthy wetb jg.
Gk rmutg armj tbg Eklehk `mktekgkt, tbg cekgr whs thieko gxphtrehtg phssgkogrs
tm Lufhe hkl tbgk Jus`ht. Et es fgcegvgl tbht tbg fmjf, sgt fy Phule-fh`igl
Mjhke tgrrmrests, whs tejgl tm om maa ek Jus`ht, fut fhl wghtbgr ek tbg Ouca
`husgl h lgchy ma sgvgrhc lhys. \bg rgsuct ma tbg gxpcmsemk whs tbg orghtgst cmss ma
ceag ht sgh ek pgh`gtejg sek`g tbg \ethke`. \bg jhdmr leaagrgk`g fgtwggk tbgsgshfmtgurs hkl tbmsg ma tbg chtg twgktegtb `gktury hppghrgl tm fg tbht jhrtyrlmj
rhrgcy m``urrgl, hkl wbgk et lel, et whs jmrg fy h``elgkt tbhk lgseok. Mkg tbeko
es `grthek ea tbg Pucthks amr`gs bhl kmt fggk su``gssauc ek thieko `mktrmc mvgr
tbg jmukthekmus ektgremr, wg wmucl kmt fg gxpcmreko et.
Fy tbg tejg wg rgh`bgl tbg fmttmj ma tbg omrog, bmt, lesbgvgccgl hkl tbhkiauc
amr supprgssgl ougrrecch whrahrg, wg wgrg jmrg tbhk rghly tm `mmc maa ek tbg pmmc
fgkghtb tbg whtgrahcc. Wseko aekogrs hkl tmgs wg tgstgl tbg tgjpgrhturg sm `mcl
tbht gvgk E hljettgl et whs phekauc.
Pbggr pukesbjgkt! Ve`bhrl hkkmuk`gl. Mflurhtg hkl pgr`bgl ceig h bgrmkmk h rm`i, bg wht`bgl jy jhsm`beste` gktry.
Fut sm es tbg bght! E `chejgl, fgamrg tbg `mcl tmmi jy frghtb hwhy.
\bg kujfeko gaag`t whs eksthkt. Jekutgs chtgr, E `chjfgrgl mut tm dmek Ve`bhrl
mk tbg rm`iy pchtamrj. Hkhgstbgtesgl armj tbg kg`i lmwk, E agct strhkogcy gchtgl.
\bg sgksg ma gupbmreh `mktekugl wgcc ektm tbg tbhweko mut prm`gss, wbe`b
amccmwgl lureko mur pe`ke` cuk`b.
Pek`g tbg trh`i wg bhl amccmwgl tm vegw Fechl Phyt gklgl hfruptcy ht tbg ammtphtb
tm tbg ahccs, wg prgphrgl tm rgtrh`g mur rmutg. Qegweko tbg s`gkgry armj tbg
mppmsetg lerg`temk whs dust hs spg`th`uchr4 h jhdgste` peki jmukthek tbht hppghrgl
hkl leshppghrgl fgtwggk kgeobfmureko shkl `mcmurgl hkl orgy pghis, hllgl h
aurtbgr lejgksemk hs wg wmukl mur why rmukl hkl up hkl lmwk. Vgcghsgl armj
tbg `hkymk, wg bghlgl cgat hcmko tbg selg ma tbg welg acmml pchek tmwhrls Vusthq.
Armj tejg tm tejg tbg trh`i khrrmwgl tbrmuob rm`i whccs hkl tbgk welgkgl ektm
0>
7/27/2019 Way South Of Wahiba Sands - Travels With Wadiman by Adrienne Brady
31/34
orght mpgk fmwcs. Lhyceobt rgvghcgl wbht lhrikgss bhl bellgk. Mk tbg aekhc
hpprmh`b tm Vusthq, sezghfcg sgttcgjgkts, ouhrlgl fy ejprgssevg amrts, tmmi sbhpg.
Hctbmuob vhryeko ek sezg, tbg amrts amccmwgl h rg`mokeshfcg lgseok ma beob
`rgkgcchtgl whccs wetb rmuklgl `hkkmk-lgacg`teko tmwgrs ht gh`b `mrkgr.
Ek tbg 857? struoocg amr pmwgr, rgselgkt trefgs armj tbgsg jmukthek vecchogs,
wmk mvgr fy frefgs armj Phule Hrhfeh, suppmrtgl tbg ejhj hkl bes frmtbgr \hcefhohekst tbg sucthk. Bghvecy hrjgl hkl prmtg`tgl fy tbger ekh``gssefcg hkl amrteaegl
bmjgs, tbgy schuobtgrgl tbg Pucthks amr`gs, sgkt ektm tbg jmuktheks tm supprgss
tbgj. \bmsg wbm httgjptgl tm gs`hpg mk ammt wgrg getbgr thigk hkl ieccgl fy
\hcefs jgk, mr legl armj bght hkl gxbhustemk. \mlhy, tgcgorhpb pmcgs, cgkotbs ma
`hfcg hcmko tbg ormukl hkl tbg sullgk gjgrogk`g ma h sg`temk ma thrjh` rmhl
sbmwgl tbg hlvhk`g ektm jmlgrk ceag ma tbg jmrg h``gssefcg vecchogs.
Mk`g hohek, wg wgrg hpprmh`beko Vusthq. Mk tbes m``hsemk, wg bhl h `cmsg up
vegw ma tbg ejprgssevg amrt tbht sthkls ouhrl mvgr tbg gktrhk`g tm tbg _gstgrk
Bhdhr. Mreoekhccy fuect mk ^grsehk rueks, tbg ejpmseko `er`uchr tmwgr, rgfuect ek tbgsgvgktggktb `gktury fy tbg rucgr ma tbg aerst Uh'hrufh Lykhsty, es dust mkg ma mvgr
mkg tbmushkl amrts, wht`btmwgrs, hkl `hstcgs tbht sthkl ouhrl mvgr Mjhk's
lrhjhte` chkls`hpg. Ek ah`t, tbgsg lgagksevg stru`turgs hrg hs ju`b h phrt ma tbg
chkls`hpg ma Mjhk hs tbg ruoogl jmukthek pghis hkl phssgs tbgy ouhrl. ^grsehk
ekvhlgrs armj tbg kmrtb hkl Ugjgke ekvhlgrs armj tbg smutb hrg rgspmksefcg amr
smjg ma tbg ghrcegst lgagksevg stru`turgs, fuect tm ouhrl tbger sgttcgjgkts hkl
cu`rhtevg trhlg rmutgs tbrmuob jmukthek phssgs tbht cghl armj tbg Jgletgrrhkghk
tm tbg Eklm-Jgsmpmthjehk rgoemks. Mk tbg mtbgr bhkl, Mjhks `mhsthc amrts hrg
cekigl tm ^mrtuougsg ejpgrehcesj.\bg prmtg`temk maagrgl fy Mjhks amrts hkl `hstcgs whs ejpmrthkt, fut gquhccy,
tbgy sgrvgl hs pmekts ma `mkvgrogk`g amr pmcete`hc, sm`ehc hkl rgceoemus ektgrh`temk,
hs wgcc hs `gktrgs amr cghrkeko. Matgk ektgorhtgl wetb smuis, jmsqugs hkl
rgselgktehc quhrtgrs, tbgy hrg h aghturg ma tbg chkls`hpg mvgrcmmieko whles, phcj
ormvgs, trhlg rmutgs hkl hk`egkt bhrfmurs. Amr tmlhys trhvgccgrs, tbgy prmvelg
`mkvgkegkt hkl ahs`ekhteko sthoeko pmsts amr gxpcmreko Mjhks vhregl hkl
lrhjhte` chkls`hpg.
Et es rujmurgl tbht h sg`rgt 8?ij tukkgc `mkkg`ts tbg amrt ht Vusthq tm Hc
Bhzj @hstcg. Fmtb jhig aucc usg ma trhletemkhc Mjhke lgagksevg aghturgs4 jhssevgwmmlgk gktry lmmrs, sg`rgt gs`hpg tukkgcs, lukogmks, hkl `hkkmk tmwgrs, hs wgcc
hs ouk pmrts ek tbg uppgr acmmrs hkl jh`be`mchtemk hfmvg tbg gktrhk`g amr pmureko
fmeceko mec mr lhtg syrup mktm ukwgc`mjg vesetmrs. \rhletemk bhs et tbht fhrfhre`
sieccs hkl lgspmtesj wgkt bhkl ek bhkl wetb glu`htemk ek jhky ma Mjhk's amrts,
hkl tbg amrjgr `hpethc ma Vusthq whs km gx`gptemk.
Ek hlletemk tm tbg mfceohtmry `butg amr pmureko fmeceko lhtg syrup mk
uksuspg`teko ektrulgrs, Vusthq Amrt bmusgs h presmk wetb h sg`temk amr wmjgk, hk
mjekmus 'aekhc pukesbjgkt' `gcc, hs wgcc hs h Xurhke` s`bmmcrmmj hkl h sjhcc
jmsqug. Hkmtbgr `mjjmk aghturg ma tbg amrts es h sgca-suaae`egkt whtgr suppcy
armj h wgcc mr spreko, tbus gksureko suppcegs ma argsb whtgr amr tbg lgagklgrs
wbecg uklgr htth`i. _bgrghs tbg amrt ht Vusthq `mktheks h spreko wetbek ets whccs,
tbg ahchd acmweko fgkghtb Hc Bhzj @hstcg prmvelgs hlletemkhc erreohtemk amr ets
surrmukleko ohrlgks.
08
7/27/2019 Way South Of Wahiba Sands - Travels With Wadiman by Adrienne Brady
32/34
Chtg hatgrkmmk suk prmvelgl tbg pgrag t pchy ma ceobt hkl sbhlg amr
pbmtmorhpbeko Vusthqs mcl sgttcgjgkt. Hctbmuob chrogcy rmmacgss, sg`temks ma tbg
shkl-fre`i whccs, hs wgcc hs gcgohkt `urvgl rg`gssgs hkl hr`bgl Hrhfe`-stycg
weklmws, wgrg stecc ek pch`g. H sgphrhtg fut hldh`gkt chrog hkl orhkl fuecleko
fmhstgl tbrgg lmmrwhys ek tbg armkt whcc. @rmwkgl fy h pmektgl pchstgrwmri hr`b,
tbg `gktrhc hkl chrogst lmufcg lmmr- lg`mrhtgl wetb trhletemkhc Eschje acmrhc`hrvekos suoogstgl tbht et bhl fggk tbg bmjg ma h wghctby hkl ekacugktehc
pgrsmk. @mjjessemkgl fy tbg bghl ma tbg bmusgbmcl, gh`b lmmr whs jhlg tm aet h
phrte`uchr fuecleko9 tbg quhcety hkl hjmukt ma `hrveko rgacg`tgl tbg sthtus ma tbg
mwkgr.
\bg trhletemk ma `hrvgl lmmrs ek Mjhk es dust mkg gxhjpcg ma tbg gx`bhkog ma
elghs hkl ommls armj ahr-acuko sgh vmyhogs ma shecmrs armj tbg Ouca rgoemk,
tbrmuobmut tbg `gkturegs. Hs wgcc hs frekoeko fh`i bhrlwmml, tbg shecmrs wgrg
hcsm ekacugk`gl fy tbg `hrvgl lgseoks usgl amr wmmlgk lmmrs ek Ghst Hare`h.
\brmuobmut tbg Ouca tmlhy, tbg lgseoks usgl amccmw phttgrks les`mvgrgl armj twmma tbg aurtbgst pmekts rgouchrcy vesetgl fy lbmws4 \hkzhkeh hkl Fhsrh, wbgrg
Gurmpghk hkl \uriesb hr`betg`turg whs hlmptgl.
\mlhy Mjhke lmmrs, prezgl amr tbger rhrety hkl ekleveluhccy bhkl-`hrvgl
lgseoks, hrg thigk armj mcl sgttcgjgkts hkl smcl ek smuis hkl hktequg sbmps amr
beob pre`gs. Et es kmt ukusuhc tm sgg tbgj `mkvgrtgl ektm `maagg thfcgs, lekeko
thfcgs hkl gvgk usgl tm lg`mrhtg whccs ek gxphtrehtg jmlgrk vecchs ek tbg Gjerhtgs.
Et whs shtesayeko tm fg hfcg tm pbmtmorhpb mkg tbht whs stecc ek pch`g. Vusthq es
hcsm rgkmwkgl amr ets smui wbgrg, ea ymu fhrohek, trhletemkhc Mjhke wmmlgk
`bgsts, secvgr dgwgccgry hkl ibhkdhrs mrkhtg hkl cgtbhc `urvgl lhoogrs wmrktu`igl ektm tbg jhcgs whestfhkl `hk stecc fg fmuobt amr rghsmkhfcg pre`gs. Jy
prezgl pmssgssemks ek`culg h `hrvgl, `er`uchr Mjhke re`g stmrhog thfcg hkl h
rgjhrihfcgibhkdhr.
Ek bgr trhvgcs tbrmuob tbg Bhlbrhjhut (Ugjgk), Argyh Pthri lgs`refgs bgr
Ugjgke ouelgs hs wecl cettcg jgk ma hk ghrcegr wmrcl, gh`b `hrryeko h buog `urvgl
lhoogr, dhjjgl ektm bes whest fhkl. \bgsg lhoogrs tbg ahjmus dhjfeyhs
(ibhkdhrs) wetb bhklcgs jhlg ma rbekm`grms bmrk wgrg tbmuobt tm `hrry
agrm`emus sgxuhc pmwgrs. Fmtb tbg lhoogrs hkl tbg vgry fgst gxhjpcgs ma secvgr
dgwgccgry wgrg shel tm fg tbg wmri ma Ugjgke Dgws. E `hjg h`rmss jyibhkdhr tbg `urvgl fchlg gkorhvgl wetb Ugjgke-Dgwesb wreteko hkl `mjpcgtg wetb h
rbekm-bmrk bhklcg wbecg cmmieko tbrmuob tmurest iets`b ek Pbhrdhbs Fcug Pmui.
_g lelkt aggc ek kggl ma tbg prmtg`temk ma hk hrjgl ouelg fut wg wgrg hkxemus tm
aekl h `hjpeko spmt fgamrg lhri, sm mk`g hohek, wg amukl mursgcvgs cghveko
Vusthq ek h burry.
Mk tbes m``hsemk, wg wgrg jhieko amr _hle Hfyhlb. Ahjmus amr ets pmmcs ma
jeciy fcug whtgr, tbes whle wmucl thig us ektm tbg cmwgr rgh`bgs ma tbg jmuktheks
wbgrg tbgy thpgr tmwhrls tbg m`ghk. Jhrigl fy h welg acht gxphksg rukkeko ht
reobt hkocgs tm tbg stmky acmml-pchek, et whs kmt leaae`uct tm elgkteay tbg gktrhk`g.
P`ruffy fusbgs hkl tbg m``hsemkhc h`h`eh phtrmccgl tbg rm`iy glogs ma tbg lregl
up revgr fgl, wbecg mk`g hohek, peki mcghklgr fuls, ocmweko ek ormweko lhrikgss,
hllgl h tmu`b ma jhoe`.
06
7/27/2019 Way South Of Wahiba Sands - Travels With Wadiman by Adrienne Brady
33/34
\mm mpgk amr jy ceieko, fut wg bhvg tm stmp smmk, Ve bhrl `mkaelgl,
`mkaerjeko jy fgcega tbht bg whs sbhreko jy ek`rghseko aggceko ma vuckgrhfecety ht
mur ahecurg tm aekl h sg`culgl pch`g fgamrg tbg sweat ahcc ma trmpe`hc lhrikgss.
Jekutgs chtgr, h bmccmw ek tbg beccselg jhrigl fy h ormup ma trggs sggjgl tm
hkswgr mur prhygrs. Mk `cmsgr ekspg`temk, wg amukl tbg gktrhk`g fcm`igl fy buog
rm`is hkl fmuclgrs. @bmmseko h `er uetmus rmutg hkl httgjpteko tm hvmel tbgchrogst mfsth`cgs, Ve`bhrl ghsgl tbg Jussm mvgr mtbgrs hkl mktm h cglog, jhrieko
tbg wektgr cgvgc ma tbg kmw ekvesefcg revgr. _g `hjg tm h sthklstecc uklgr hk
ujfrgcch ma ektgrtwekgl tbmrky frhk`bgs armj okhrcgl h`h`ehs ormweko ht tbg
jggteko pmekt ma sgvgrhc ouccegs.
Et whs wbecg wg wgrg strgt`beko mur cejfs tbht wg kmte`gl h `mccg`temk ma jul
hkl rggl sbh`is mk tbg mppmsetg fhki. _g rgjhekgl secgkt hkl wht`bauc, tbgk
sek`g tbgrg whs km smukl hkl km ceobts, sgt up `hjp, fuect h sjhcc aerg hkl put
tmogtbgr h ceobt suppgr armj lejekesbeko suppcegs. Ek `rgpus`uchr ceobt, E ejhoekgl
et whs tbg smrt ma pch`g wbgrg tbg chst Hrhfehk cgmphrl whs ceigcy tm sullgkcyhppghr hkl skht`b jg amr bes gvgkeko jghc. Ve`bhrl's `mjjgkt tbht su`b h lghtb,
wbe`b wmucl `mktrefutg tm tbg prgsgrvhtemk ma tbg spg`egs, wmucl fg bmkmurhfcg
whs ma cettcg `mjamrt. E rgsmcvgl tbht kmtbeko wmucl jhig jg cghvg tbg tgkt uktec
jmrkeko ceobt.
Mur fmlecy rbytbjs hldustgl tm tbg ahcc ma lhrikgss hkl ceat ma ceobt. _g wgrg up
ht lhwk wht`beko twm swhccmws leppeko hkl smhreko mvgr mur bghls. Hk bmur
chtgr, truklceko mvgr tbg fmuclgr-strgwk whle acmmr, wg wgrg jhieko amr tbg lhjp
`mursg hkl sjhccgr stmkgs ma tbg kmw vesefcg strghjfgl. Hs wg prmorgssgl, tbgstrghj ahsbemkgl etsgca ektm pmmcs, fgamrg fg`mjeko h sjhcc revgr fmrlgrgl fy fgls
ma sex ammt beob rusbgs hkl orhssgs. Vukkgcs armj prgvemus vgbe`cgs rhk hcmkoselg
amr sgvgrhc iecmjgtrgs, uktec tbg phsshog whs fcm`igl fy jhssevg fmuclgrs frmuobt
lmwk fy wektgr acmmls. Ht tbes pmekt wg hfhklmkgl tbg Jussm hkl, lmkkeko mur
ru`ish`is, `chjfgrgl hkl sceppgl mur why mvgr hkl fgtwggk tbg fhrre`hlg tm h
sgregs ma whtgrahccs cghleko tm h kgtwmri ma trhkscu`gkt pmmcs trhppgl ek rm`iy
bmccmws.
Ceobt rgacg`teko mk `hc`etg, suspgklgl ek tbg whtgr hkl cekeko tbg fmttmj ma tbg
pmmcs, turkgl tbg whtgr gxquesetg sbhlgs ma jeciy wbetg mr fcug. Fgkghtb ahccekowhtgr, tbg chrogst pmmc whs fmtb welg gkmuob hkl lggp gkmuob tm `mmc maa hkl
swej9 E tgstgl et hkl, hctbmuob kmt kujfekocy `mcl, km hjmukt ma pgrsuhsemk mr
pcghleko su``gglgl ek tgjpteko Ve`bhrl tm dmek jg. Jghkwbecg, bg bhl
les`mvgrgl h kgeobfmureko sbhccmw pmmc9 whtgr tgjpgrhturgs rhesgl armj acmweko
mvgr rm`is `rghtgl pgrag`t `mkletemks amr rg`cekeko. Bg chy fh`i, gkdmyeko tbg
sgkshtemk ma kujgrmus sjhcc aesb ceig jekehturg perhkbhs keffceko ht tbg shct
hkl lghl siek mk bes sbeks hkl aggt fgamrg pmieko hfmut ek bmccmws ceig hk gx`etgl
Lhvel Httgkfmrmuob.
Pgg tbht cgha= bg hsigl, hssujeko h `rmu`beko pmsetemk hkl pmekteko tm h
frmwk cghay `custgr, acg`igl wetb wbetg, wbgrg tbg strghjfgl whs sbhlmwgl fy
mvgrbhkoeko rm`i. Ets km cgha, bg hllgl. P`mrpemk aesb. P`mrpemk cgha-aesb.
Hs E wht`bgl, E shw tbg jmvgjgkt ma hk gyg hkl ahsbemkgl tbg mutcekg ma h
aesb. Ceig tbg stmkgaesb, et whs h jhstgr ma lesouesg.
Grg`ts pmesmkmus speiy lmrshc aeks wbgk tbrghtgkgl, Ve`bhrl `mktekugl.
00
7/27/2019 Way South Of Wahiba Sands - Travels With Wadiman by Adrienne Brady
34/34
E bhstgkgl mut ma tbg whtgr. Et whs jy turk tm set mk h rm`i hkl vegw tbg pmmc
hkl ets weclceag armj h shag lesthk`g.