Sustainability of Textile Industry[Type the document subtitle]

COURSE CODE: MGT-4027

COURSE TITLE: INDUSTRIAL COMPLIANCE & ISO CERTIFICATION

SUBMITTED TO:

NAZMUL HAQUE

LECTURER

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGG.

SUBMITTED BY:

Siful Islam Jony ID: 2013000400031

Mofizur Rahman Sazal ID: 2013000400036

MD. Mazadul Islam Ripon ID: 2013000400016

Moniruzzaman ID: 2013000400035

SUBMISSION DATE:

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Sustainability: Sustainable Textiles

We put a lot of effort into our textiles, or human-made fabrics. Across the world and throughout history, textiles have been the base of some of the most lucrative economies and networks of exchange in the world. Ever heard of the Silk Road? Textiles are important, and it's not just because we need them to stay warm. We enjoy our textiles. But, we want to be able to feel good about our textiles. Just as we want to make sure that we are making responsible habits in the food products we purchase and consume, we need to be aware of the impact of our role as economic consumers of textiles. In accordance with that agenda, many people in the world are pushing for more sustainable textiles, or ethically produced fabrics. We may look good in our textiles, but we want to feel good about them too.

Defining Sustainability

Sustainable living is becoming more and more of a concern in the 21st century, as the impacts of human production and waste are becoming inescapably apparent. We apply this term to food production, international trade, commercial industries, and now textiles. But, what exactly is sustainable living? The goal of sustainability is the creation of cycles of behavior with the greatest long-term benefits for the greatest number of people. There are three defining elements of this: economic, social, and environmental

Through the utilization of recycled material for the manufacturing of clothing, this provides an additional realm of economic world profit. Sustainable Clothing will provide a new market for additional job opportunities, continuous net flow of money in the economy, and the reduction of raw materials and virgin

resources. Source reduction or reducing the use of raw materials and virgin resources can ultimately reduce carbon emissions during the manufacturing process as well as the resources and carbon emissions that are related to the transportation process. This also prevents the unsustainable usage of extracting materials from the Earth by making use of what has already been used (i.e. recycling).

The "three pillars" of sustainability bounded by the environment (earth, life)

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What constitutes a sustainable textile?Broadly speaking, the answer lies in four main factors: raw material extraction, textile production, added chemistry and end-of-life.

Raw material extraction for example, addresses the land and water used to grow natural fibers like cotton and wool, or the impacts of extracting fossil fuels for synthetic fibers such as polyester or nylon.

Production considerations include the water and energy used for manufacturing, the impact of production waste and a company's social responsibility towards its workers and the communities that surround its production facilities. Added chemistries, including dyes, finishes and coatings, may impact the health of textile workers as well as consumers of the final product.

Finally, the end-of-life scenario, including textile biodegradability and the reclamation infrastructure required to turn it into new raw material, strongly affect its sustainability.

Goals of SustainabilityThe sustainable development professional network thinks, acts and works globally. In 2012, the United Nations Conference on Sustainable Development met to discuss and develop a set of goals to work towards; they grew out of the Millennium Development Goals (MDG) that claimed success in reducing global poverty while acknowledging there was still much more to do. The SDG eventually came up with a list of 17 items which included amongst other things:

The end of poverty and hunger Better standards of education and healthcare - particularly as it pertains to water quality and better

sanitation To achieve gender equality Sustainable economic growth while promoting jobs and stronger economies All of the above and more while tackling the effects of climate change, pollution and other

environmental factors that can harm and do harm people's health, livelihoods and lives. Sustainability to include health of the land, air and sea

Finally, it acknowledged the concept of nature having certain rights - that people have stewardship of the world and the importance of putting people at the forefront of solving the above global issues through management of the environment and of consumption (for example, reducing packaging and discouraging food waste as well as promoting the use of recyclable materials).

History of SustainabilityHumans have, since the Neolithic Agricultural Revolution and maybe even before then, been a consumer rather than a replenished of environmental resources. From hunter-gatherer societies that moved into an area to use up its resources in a season before setting up camp or moving on, only to return the following year to do the same, the development of a surplus economy saw permanent settlements. Slash and burn farming replaced natural wilderness often with uniform crop plantation and camps gave way to settlements, then eventually villages, towns and cities which would put pressure on the environment.

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Sometimes, the environmental pressures forced people into making these changes in the first place (growing human population being one of those pressures) and often eventually they had to move on to somewhere new where the environmental could better sustain them and their practices, or make further changes to their existing environment. There was no real concept of sustainable living, even if the people of the distant past understood that soil had a maximum fertility that could be exhausted and replenished with livestock.

It is widely acknowledged that many societies collapsed due to an inability to adapt to the conditions brought on by these unsustainable practices. Whether that was introducing alien species that upset the balance of the ecosystem, cutting down too many trees at once or even a failure to adapt to natural fluctuations in the climate, we are far more aware in the modern world about the potential damage caused by human action. Cultural change often led to survival of those societies beyond what might have been expected under the circumstances.

Though some Renaissance and Enlightenment philosophers would express concern about resources and over-population and whether these were sustainable in the long term, these people were not taken seriously at the time other than as a hypothetical question. It would take until the 20 th century before we would understand the impact that we could have on our environment. Environmental damage, pollution, destabilising soils by cutting down trees, fossil fuels and other environmental issues led to a growing concern about the environment and whether we were or could damage our own ecosystem. The United Nations was founded after World War II and in 1945, UNESCO was established to promote the importance of human culture and of science. Today, their remit is "to contribute to the building of peace, the eradication of poverty, sustainable development and intercultural dialogue through education, the sciences, culture, communication and information".

By the late 20th century, the science of climate change was firmly established. We knew by the 1980s about the problems of the greenhouse effect and the destruction of the ozone layer and coming very late in the century, an awareness of the notion that some of our resources - particularly fossil fuels - were finite and that we should make efforts to move to renewable methods of power. It was then that we saw the social, economic and scientific birth of the environmental movement.

Sustainable MaterialsLet's talk more about these ideas as they pertain specifically to textiles. Sustainable textiles begin with sustainable materials. Many of our modern textiles are created using synthetic textiles. Many people don't realize this, but most synthetic materials are actually developed using petroleum. Petroleum based fibers include polyester, nylon, and spandex. Anything relying on petroleum, which is naturally limited in quantity and inherently extractive, is not sustainable.

Natural materials tend to be much more sustainable. However, some materials are more sustainable than others. Hemp, bamboo, and soy are sturdy, versatile plants with minimal environmental impact. Sheep have a lower environmental impact than goats.

However, this is where we need to consider the other elements of sustainability as well. Cotton is not as environmentally friendly as hemp, but is much softer. Cashmere comes from goat wool, not sheep wool. So, to make sure that textiles are economically sustainable, we need to learn to produce them in sustainable ways. One major way to do this is to reduce the use of pesticides. Integrated Pest Management systems involve using non-chemical methods to protect plants like cotton. Ladybugs and other predatory insects can be used to eliminate harmful pests, and even some plants naturally repel insects and rodents.

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Material Patterns:Considering the Economic, Environmental, and Social Impacts of the Global textile industry:

Economic Development

This is the issue that proves the most problematic as most people disagree on political ideology what is and is not economically sound, and how it will affect businesses and by extension, jobs and employability. It is also about providing incentives for businesses and other organisations to adhere to sustainability guidelines beyond their normal legislative requirements. Also, to encourage and foster incentives for the average person to do their bit where and when they can; one person can rarely achieve much, but taken as a group, effects in some areas are cumulative. The supply and demand market is consumerist in nature and modern life requires a lot of resources every single day; for the sake of the environment, getting what we consume under control is the paramount issue. Economic development is about giving people what they want without compromising quality of life, especially in the developing world, and reducing the financial burden and “red tape” of doing the right thing.

Social Development

“Apparel production is a springboard for national development, and often is the typical starter industryfor countries engaged in export‐oriented industrialization.”

The low barriers to entry that make textile and apparel production so pervasive also make scoping andquantifying its full social impact nearly impossible. However, even conservative estimates suggest thatthis industry directly employs more than 40 million people worldwide. In some developing countries, thetextiles and apparel industries are a particularly important source of manufacturing employment, whichis often associated with lifting individuals out of poverty. Key examples of this include Cambodia(80.1%), Mauritius (72.8%), Sri Lanka (49.2%), Bangladesh (35%), Pakistan (42.9%), and Madagascar(45%). (McNamara 2008) The derivative effects of this scale of employment are clearly immense. Thegovernment of India has estimated that every direct textile industry job means another 1.2 jobs in alliedindustries.The societal impact of this kind of work cannot be understated. In a detailed study of the textilesIndustry in Madagascar, Alessandro Nicita and Susan Razzaz (World Bank) found that moving fromInconsistent, subsistence, or marginal employment to a job within the textiles and apparel productionIndustry would increase an individual’s purchasing power by 24% on average – a change sufficient to lift them out of poverty.

Environmental Protection

Textile processing industry is characterized not only by the large volume of water required for various unit operations but also by the variety of chemicals used for various processes. There is a long sequence of wet processing stages requiring inputs of water, chemical and energy and generating wastes at each stage. The other feature of this industry, which is a backbone of fashion garment, is large variation in demand of type, pattern and colour combination of fabric resulting into significant fluctuation in waste generation volume and load. Textile processing generates many waste streams, including liquid, gaseous and solid wastes, some of which may be hazardous. The nature of the waste generated depends on the type of textile facility, the processes and technologies being operated, and the types of fibres and chemicals used. The overview on the amounts of waste generated within the textile processes are summarized in.

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Textile industry overviewThe textile industry is a significant contributor to many national economies, encompassing both small and large-scale operations worldwide. In terms of its output or production and employment, the textile industry is one of the largest industries in the world.

The textile manufacturing process is characterized by the high consumption of resources like water, fuel and a variety of chemicals in a long process sequence that generates a significant amount of waste. The common practices of low process efficiency result in substantial wastage of resources and a severe damage to the environment. The main environmental problems associated with textile industry are typically those associated with water body pollution caused by the discharge of untreated effluents. Other environmental issues of equal importance are air emission, notably Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC)’s and excessive noise or odour as well as workspace safty.

Process flow elements sustainability Risks:

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The Latest in Sustainable Textiles:We economize on our driving by using shared resources, or we bike to work, or walk to save on our carbon footprint. We reduce our energy usage where we can by buying appliances that conserve water and electricity and we lobby for energy-smart concepts like solar or wind energy production. And yet, one of the world’s greatest culprits in environmental pollution is something we use every day and probably give the least consideration to its environmental impact: our clothes.

Conventional textile production is one of the most polluting industries on the planet. The World Bank estimates that the textile industry is responsible for as much as 20 percent of industrial pollution in our rivers and land. Finding ways to curb the environmental pollution caused by textile production starts with finding new ways to produce fabrics that don’t require toxins and large amounts of water, and which minimize harm to local the ecology. “We use low-impact dyes and we follow all fair-trade guidelines for our employees,” explains Schwab. That ethical criterion even extends to their supply chain. “We go out of our way to make sure that anyone who is connected with our company has fair working conditions and pays an above average

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wage.” Synergy also donates a portion of its proceeds to “nonprofits working on environmental or social justice and educational activities.”

The materials Synergy uses represent only a few of the sustainable textile choices on the market these days, although they are among the more favored by consumers. The following is a brief list to highlight some of the differences between sustainable and conventional textile production methods.

Organic CottonAs the name implies, organic cotton is grown without chemical pesticides and fertilizers. Textiles made of organic cotton require less water to manufacture than conventional cotton textiles and are often more comfortable.

For the consumer, the advantages are obvious, says Schwab. “It is softer [and] it feels better on the skin. The skin is your largest organ, so you are not absorbing the chemicals.”

Organic cotton requires specialized equipment that allows the cotton to be harvested easily without conventional methods. Some fair trade cooperatives don’t advertise organic cotton, but still strive for a sustainable, humanely produced product. Still, the use of third-party certification, such as used by Mata Traders,  that supports worker cooperatives and non-toxic dyes have their own sustainability value.

SilkSilk is produced by moths, and conventional methods destroy the moth and cocoon in the process. Sustainable products, such as Ahimsa silk, use methods that don’t kill the moth pupa. Eco-friendly silk is produced primarily in India, North Asia and Africa.

Like organic cotton, “green” silk is often softer because it lacks the harsh dyes that are common in conventional silk production.  There are a variety of types of sustainable silk, each with their own unique colors and characteristics. The most common is produced by a creamy white-colored silk worm that is found on the mulberry tree in India. The Ethical Silk Company, based out of Ireland, specializes in products made from this delicate weave.   Tussur silk, also from India and Mopani silk, from Africa, are darker, rich-colored silks.

HempPopular lore places this versatile plant in the category of marijuana. While it is technically a member of the cannabis family, its textile use is less controversial (and a lot less psychoactive). Its true benefits can be found in its durability and ruggedness, although as a fabric, hemp is surprisingly comfortable to wear. It also blends nicely with other lighter materials like cotton and silk. It is a fast-growing plant that is easily managed, can be grown organically and used for everything from clothing and nutritious food to paper and building materials.

Few textile companies use hemp right now, but that is likely to change with the passage of the latest Farm Bill, which contained a provision to legalize hemp farming. Nine states have already passed laws supporting its cultivation.

Bamboo

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Bamboo is used quite differently today than in early Chinese culture, when it was used as a source for shoes and corsets. Today, weavers blend it with other fabrics through complex processes that soften the fabric.

There are two ways that bamboo can be used to produce fabric. The first involves pulverizing the woody fiber until it can be combed and spun into a yarn. It is a labor-intensive process that makes the end linen product more expensive.

The second way involves solvents that break down the fibers and create a viscose bamboo solution that is eventually hardened and spun into fibers. Techniques can vary, and not all manufacturers use sustainable methods to break down the fibers.

So why is bamboo considered a sustainable source for textiles? In a word: adaptability. It is an extremely fast growing plant that doesn’t need to be replanted each year, doesn’t require massive amounts of pesticides and is a great air cleaner for global warming concerns. As Schwab points out, the advent of cultivated bamboo plantations that negate the demand for clear-cut forest harvesting has made bamboo a worthwhile choice for some textiles.

WoolThe versatility and popularity of wool dates back thousands of years and can be found wherever sheep have been cultivated. It’s been used as a source for clothing in both cold and warm climates, although it gains its fame in part from its insulating properties in chilly, windy environment of the British Isles. Because of its natural ability to wick away moisture, it’s a favorite fabric during the winter. It is also used for summer throws and light blankets.

Sustainable wool is harvested from sheep that are raised in humane conditions. Research shows that adequate living conditions and reduced stress results in less disease and a better agricultural product. Organically raised sheep have been shown to have better immune systems that can withstand the parasites and diseases that commonly plague conventionally raised animals.

Wool is naturally hypoallergenic, and many people who have allergy sensitivities find that organic wool, which is void of chemical dyes, soaps and residues, are a comfortable fabric for year-round apparel. The U.S.-based apparel company Appalachia specializes in unique organic wool products.

New TrendsNewer trends that present exciting opportunities for textiles, says Schwab, include ocean products like seaweed, which have so far only been used by those who can afford to invest and promote its textile production. Hemp blends are another area that has value, particularly if hemp production does take off in the U.S. “I think there could be thousands of new materials that could come out in blends,” says Schwab, who admits that affordable production of hemp or seaweed needs larger companies to invest first, increase availability and “help bring the price down.” Doing so “makes it practical” for smaller manufacturers when there is increased demand and production. And it makes it affordable for the consumer to support sustainable products. “If the mainstream companies would devote 1 percent to sustainability, we could change the whole industry,” says Schwab.

Conclusion:

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In total, the global textile industry does not operate environmentally friendly and sustainably right now. However, there are numerous starting points to improve the sustainability. Modern chemistry will be an essential component on this path. Cleaner production is an attractive approach to tackle environmental problems associated with industrial production and poor material efficiency. Since the cleaner production approach has been successfully implemented in some areas in the textile sector, it shows that significant financial saving and environmental improvements can be made by relatively low-cost and straightforward interventions. This improves the quality of products and minimizes the cost of production, enabling the branch to compete in the global market. Moreover, Cleaner Production also improves the company’s public image by highlighting the steps it has taken to protect the environment.