Tehnica Manual Grivel

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IntroductionIn writing this manual on technical progression we adopted a model similar to other texts on sport, for example skiing. Generally speaking themajority of manuals on alpinism explain how to climb a wall, a ridge, a glacier It would be like a ski manual explaining how to descend a black or ared trail without explaining about snow plows, parallel turns, wedels, and without allowing the student to adapt his style to the terrain and his ownabilities. Here, we give priority to describing the actual movements rather than the terrain. We start with easy exercises such as walking on snow andfinish with the most difficult techniques such as the use of ice axes and crampons. Naturally one must take into consideration that snow and ice areconstantly changing elements : "Mountains are not a tennis court on which the ball bounces always in the same way". After having done all theexercises on the appropriate terrain (each exercise is presented in the most suitable environment), the student can go out into the mountains with theknowledge of how to adapt to hard or soft snow, to splintering ice, to cornices, to storms, to fatigue, to inadequate training and other big or smalldisasters that render more difficult, if not impossible, to carry out the planned route. It will be up to the student, thanks to his experience, sensitivityand ability to adapt, to decide, after having evaluated the mountain himself, which technique to use, whilst respecting the rules of security andcaution, and if necessary give up.

The text was presented to the technical committee of the Alpine Guides- Alpinism instructors and adopted as the official text for the Italian AlpineGuide diploma course. In order to coordinate the teaching methods of the numerous companies of Alpine Guides, it is hoped that it will become thebasic text for the Italian Alpine Guides schools (Italian School of Alpinsm, Ski Alpinism, and Climbing).1 - Classic technique

2 - Classic progression when traversing

3 - Classic progression

4 - Ice axe traction basic techniques

5 - Fundamental study of progressing using ice axe traction

6 - Ice axe traction progression evolved

7 - Progression evolved when traversing

echnique

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lassic technique

Walking on hard snow without crampons, feet flat

AREA :Slopes of hard snow where only the soles of the boots make a mark.

ANGLE :Maxi : 25 (ex. ski slope).

DESCRUPTION :One must try to place one's feet as flat as possible in such a way that the entire imprint of the boot sole is left in the snow.The body should stay upright. Steps should be short and the legs should be slightly spread apart, toes pointing outwards. The weighted leg (rear),stays straight (stretching the Achilles tendon) (fig.3).

Feet are placed in such that the soles are parallel to the slope, to do this you must bend your ankles as much as possible. As the slope gets steeper, itsuffices to angle the feet more.If the snow is very hard, you can also kick into the snow so that half of the sole of the boot bites into the snow. This exercise is an excellent

preparation to cramponning flat footed.Using ski poles is useful in coordinating movements between the feet and the arms.

ERRORS :

The student places his feet on the edges or extremities of the boot. The student lifts his feet too high, and takes too long of strides.

CORRECTION :

Suggest mobility exercises for the ankles. Do the exercise backwards, both uphill and downhill. Walk in the footsteps of a high mountain guide.

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Descending facing downhill without crampons using a controlled glissade.

AREA :Snow slope relatively hard, but one that allows the sole of the boot to penetrate.

ANGLE :20 / 35

DESCRIPTION :The descent is made by placing one's heels in the snow, ankles and knees bent, center of gravity over the feet and the chest bent slightly forward.Thestudent should place his feet parallel to the slope to slide. Weight should shift progressively from the heels to the entire foot, starting the glissade.While trying to maintain balance, the student controls the speed of the glissade by changing the angle of flex of the ankles. Balance is maintained byfore-aft adjustments off the center of gravity.Using a ski pole is highly recommended for both maintaining balance and for accelerating when the speed of the glissade diminishes.After having gained confidence repeat the exercise being more dynamic as in skiing : ski skating, turns, stops, jumps.

ERRORS :

When leaning on the heels, the legs stay straight and the waist too far to the rear. Recommendation : The goal of the exercise is to accustom the student, first to sliding, and then a controlled glissade.

Progressing forwards feet flat with crampons. "ice axe cane".

AREA :Hard snow or soft ice, gentle slopes. Uphill and downhill.Old crampons only had points under the foot, the front points did not exist or were in an infantile stage. The arrival of modern crampons, equippedwith front points has not done away with progressing feet flat which, on gentle slopes, offers better stability, quicker travel and an economy of energy.

DESCRIPTION :

Go uphill with the legs slightly spread apart on fairly steep slopes being careful that all of the points of the crampons are penetrating the slope. Whenthe slope becomes steeper, spread apart the feet (herringbone) and bend the ankles. (fig.4).

Get accustomed to transferring body weight from the weighted leg before standing on the other, the weight transfer is obtained by shifting the waistover the weighted leg. From one step to the other, stretch the Achilles tendon of the weighted leg.The foot is placed on the ice energetically. With each step, lift the foot high enough above the ice surface so that the points do not snag.Using ski poles is recommended to assist the student in weight transfer. Then, repeat the exercise without the ski poles in order to coordinatebalance. On steeper slopes introduce the use of an ice axe used as a cane. (ice axe cane).

DESCENDING :The chest bent forward, the legs slightly spread apart, slightly bent, the feet angled out (herring boned). As in going uphill, before taking steps, placea lot of weight on the weighted leg by bringing the waist over this leg. Weight the entire length of the foot evenly, not only the heel or the toe (fig.5).

ERRORS :



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The student does not place his hips over the favored leg, which throws the student out of balance during the stride (wrong center of gravity). The student trips on the points of the crampons.

CORRECTION :

use the following teaching methods ex. a double rope laid on the ground like rails 30cm apart. The student walks placing his feet on theoutside of the rails.

Follow in the footsteps of a guide.When walking with the feet spread apart (herringbone), only the inside or front points of the crampon penetrate the ice.

CORRECTION :

stretch the Achilles tendon and spread apart the knee of the favored leg before moving the other one.

The use of "ice axe cane".The ice axe made of a spike, the shaft and the head (which has a pick and an adze).For use as a cane, it is recommended to use an axe that is relatively long.

DESCRIPTION :Stand upright, arms held at the side relaxed, the ice axe held by its head, the pick facing forward, the palm of the hand sitting on the adze (fig.6).

The point should penetrate the snow, take a few steps planting the point of the axe : for every two steps, move the ice axe once, two steps, once, etc.The ice axe is planted when the opposite leg is in the forward position. When moving forwards, the ice axe is held in the favored hand.When descending, take the axe with the pick facing towards the rear (fig.7). When descending if one does not have an axe sufficiently long, avoid

setting it and simply hold the axe by either it's head or shaft.

Removing the ball of snow from under foot "de-balling".

Whether with or without crampons, certain types of snow favor the accumulation of snow under foot, causing problems that can be dangerous. Get ridof the snow balling by firmly striking the side of the boot with the shaft of the ice axe when walking, when the foot is off the ground and the leg bent

(fig.8).During the exercise, if the student shows problems keeping his balance, recommend a ski pole for the free hand.When on a steep slope, where balling can be dangerous, the ridding of snow can be done by striking the boot while the foot is on the ground.



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Moving forwards with crampons, using the front points. "ice axe support".

AREA :Small walls of tender ice, the slope not steeper than 50.

DESCRIPTION :Starting position, facing the slope, legs slightly spread apart (waist width) and bent, in a naturally balanced position. The crampons are set facingforward, only the front points penetrate the ice. The soles of the boots are horizontal. Arms slightly bent in front of the chest, the strongest of the twohands takes the ice axe by the head as in "ice axe support" (fig.9), the other hand is placed flat on the ice at shoulder height. Before taking a step up,

shift body weight to the favored leg by a lateral movement of the hips.

ERRORS:

Not making the weight transfer to the favored leg before taking a step. The chest being too close to the slope. Taking too long of strides. Heels being too high. (fig.10).

Feet at the same height. Kicking the ice too much with crampons which make the ice fragile, and not as solid.

Take the axe by the head with the arm slightly bent along side of the body, the palm of the hand resting on the adze, the blade should strike the iceat waist level, only by placing one's weight on the axe.The axe is weighted, not planted and will be placed every two steps, at the moment when the opposite leg is the highest (fig.11).

ERROR :

Trying to plant the axe instead of weighting it.



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Glissade on a nv and how to stop. "A crouched glissade".

AREA :Slope of snow not too hard.

ANGLE :Between 30 and 40 which stops after a few dozen meters and turns into a flat area without any objective danger.

DESCRIPTION :When walking downhill facing forward, the ice axe held by the head (fig.7),the pick facing forward, sit down and let one self slide for a few meters.

Turn facing the slope, grab the ice axe by the shaft with the other hand and push it into the snow at chest height.Entire body weight should be placed on the pick which in turn rakes the snow surface and slows the slide.Legs should be kept spread apart, the feet can help to slow down the slide.In case the student is wearing crampons, they should not be used for slowing the slide, which would result in flipping over. Braking should be theresult of only the ice axe (fig.12).

During the glissade it is important to keep one's head facing uphill. Also try the exercise sliding on one's back, head first. In this situation, turn overimmediately on one's stomach using the handle of the axe to pivot around head facing uphill, and then start braking with the pick of the axe.

It is possible to slide along the nv using the axe for support. This technique is called "a crouched glissade" Using the basic position for glissadingfacing downhill, bend over slightly, hold the axe using the technique "crouched" but in this case on one's side so that it can be used as a brake in thesnow. Stay in this bent over position by adjusting balance between the heels and the point of the axe.



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Classic progression when traversing1 - Progressing on a diagonal traverse feet flat without crampons.

2 - Progressing on a traverse feet flat with crampons

3 - Changing direction facing uphill

4 - Progression crossing over feet flat with crampons. "ice axe crouch"

5 - Changing direction facing downhill

6 - Cutting steps

Progressing on a diagonal traverse feet flat without crampons.

AREA :Slopes of hard snow of about 25.

DESCRIPTION :At a certain inclination, the mobility of the ankle attains it's maximum, it then becomes impossible to progress directly. It is then necessary to adopt atechnique for progressing by traversing. Keep the feet slightly herring boned, the uphill foot facing the direction of travel, the downhill footperpendicular to the line of the slope (fig.13).

When the snow surface becomes too hard, one can kick into the slope so that the sole of the boot penetrates and sticks into the snow. The bodyshould be balanced directly above one's legs, the hips angled, ankles and knees bent and slightly forward.The ice axe used for balance in front and planted when body weight is on the uphill foot.

ERRORS :

The student leans too far forward and the feet slide out.

CORRECTION :Increase the ankle and knee flex uphill. Try to be relaxed. Take away the ice axe.

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Progressing on a traverse feet flat using crampons.

AREA :Frozen nv or tender ice approx. 30/35.

DESCRIPTION :Ascend diagonally pushing energetically using the entire length of the sole and therefore all the points of the crampons on the snow. It is necessary toincrease the bend of the ankles uphill to do so.Feet position : The uphill foot in the direction of travel, the downhill foot open front points pointing downhill.Standing on the uphill foot by progressively turning the ankle, all the points of the crampons should penetrate the ground at the same moment onehas his full weight on it.The knee of the leg in question is pointing slightly downhill.Chest position : Slightly bent forwards, the shoulders pointing downhill, the hips angled.The more the slope angle increases the more it is necessary to angle the downhill foot downhill in order for all the points to penetrate the snow(fig.15). The ice axe is used for support with the uphill hand, the other hand can either hold a ski pole or be placed on the downhill thigh.

The axe is planted at the same time the uphill foot strikes the slope. It is important that this exercise be carried out with rhythm : two steps, then theaxe, etc...

ERRORS :

not enough body angle.

CORRECTION :the guide corrects the position by holding onto the students hands and by pulling slightly uphill. The student can also hold onto the downhill knee withthe uphill hand. All the points do not penetrate and the feet are placed on their sides. The ankle flex is insufficient, the front of the downhill cramponis not pointing downhill enough.CORRECTION:Suggest concentrating on pushing the knees downhill.

Changing direction facing uphill.

AREA :As in the precedent exercise.

DESCRIPTION :Once at the end of the traverse, position one self facing uphill, feet spread apart and open (herringbone), then place the uphill foot in the newdirection.The ice axe changes hands when the feet are in a herringbone position.(fig.16).



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Progression crossing over, feet flat using crampons. "ice axe crouch".

AREA :Ice slope approx. 35/40.

DESCRIPTION :When progressing using a classic traverse, the downhill foot is placed before and below the uphill foot (feet move in parallel), when crossing over, it isplaced in front and over (the feet cross over). (fig.17).

From the starting position : downhill foot pointing downhill, the uphill foot slightly higher and in front the toes facing the direction of travel, cross overthe downhill foot by passing it in front of the other foot and positioning it above the other pointing downhill; now go back to the original starting pointthe uphill foot in front, and higher than the other.The outside foot passes in front of the points of the other foot, the inside foot passes behind the heel of the outside foot.The uphill push is made essentially by the outside foot. The main muscle being used when crossing over are the quadriceps of the outside leg.The chest, slightly bent forward is facing uphill, the hips angled uphill, the knees are bent facing downhill. The ice axe is planted while the feet arecrossing over.

ERRORS :

When crossing over feet, one only leans on the inside points of the crampon (the edges).

CORRECTION :Push the knee downhill and increase the bend of the ankle.Using "ice axe crouch" : When traversing, when the slope becomes steep, the axe is held horizontally using both hands in front of oneself. The uphillhand holds the axe next to the spike and pushes this into the snow, the lower hand, far from the slope, holds the head of the axe (pick facing thefront) and pushes up on the axe.The axe is planted at every step and at the same time as the uphill foot (fig.18).

Changing direction facing downhill.

AREA :Slopes of hard snow or tender ice of about 35.

DESCRIPTION :At the end of the traverse, turning voluntarily downhill with the feet spread apart herringbone, knees and hips well bent. From this position, changehands with the axe and continue in the desired direction by crossing over. This method is useful for the guide, as he doesn't loose sight of his client,and he doesn't have to walk over the rope. (fig.19,20,21,22,23).



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Cutting steps.

AREA :Hard snow without crampons : One cuts using the adze, holding the axe with one's strongest hand. With experience one can syncronize the stepcutting with the rhythm of walking, a step, a cut, etc... Also to avoid hitting one's tibias with the axe, it is recommended to make an uphill rotation ofthe axe once the step has been cut.

ICE :Position oneself sideways and cut with the pick by holding the axe by the end of the shaft and with the downhill hand. Cut the step by starting fromthe bottom (horizontal blows) and finish with vertical blows (fig.24).

Stoup : This is a cut that one makes in the ice. It is used for a hand hold when climbing short walls of ice with only one axe. Depending upon whattype of ice and axe one uses, one cuts stoups by using easy blows of the pick or the adze. It is recommended to cut several in such a way that onehas several options when climbing (fig. 25)

* ATTENTION, if the climb must be re descended it is necessary to cut steps as shown (besides) otherwise the descent will be difficult if notimpossible.



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Classic progression1 - Progression crossing over feet flat on steep slopes.

2 - Progression using "Mixed technique"

3 - Descending facing downhill on steep slopes. "ice axe ramp".

4 - Progression facing uphill using "ice axe traction"

5 - Progression facing uphill using two axes as support

6 - Progression facing uphill using the "amble"

7 - Progression on mixed terrain

Progressing feet crossing over flat foot on maximum slopes.

AREA :Slopes of hard snow or soft ice of up to 40.

DESCRIPTION :Front cross over : One uses the same procedure as for progressing when using a diagonal cross over, toes facing downhill. Even the uphill foot facesdownhill (fig.26).

Back cross over : The body is sideways, the chest is slightly bent forward and uphill, the hips uphill and the knees bent.The downhill foot passes behind the calf of the uphill leg and is placed at the same level, the toes pointing downhill (it is almost walking backwards).The uphill push is given by the foot that is crossing (fig.27). The muscles used are mainly the quads. In order not to tire, it is possible to alternate the

foot that crosses but in general everyone has a side that one prefers.The axe is used as an uphill support or held in a crouch (fig.18). This method is best for guides since he doesn't loose sight of his client when walking.

ERRORS :

Not sufficiently turning the foot downhill. The body is leaning too far uphill.

lassic progression

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Progressing using "mixed technique".

AREA :Long steep slopes of frozen snow or soft ice of between 45/50.

DESCRIPTION :Progress using alternatively one foot flat on the side and one foot using the front points. Change direction every ten steps or so to work both legs.The flat foot should be placed perpendicular to the slope. As when progressing using front points the feet are never at the same height.The axe can be used either as support or ice axe traction (see exercise : 4) and is held by the hand on the flat foot side. One plants the axe at the

same time as the foot using the front points.The free hand is used for balance by placing it on the ice at chest height (fig.28). This technique allows one to rest the calf of the foot placed flat,

whereas in front pointing both feet are being used at the same time.ERRORS :

The axe is planted at every step. The flat foot is not placed horizontally and only the inside points pentrate the ice.

CORRECTION :push the knee towards the outside.

Descending facing downhill on steep slopes. "Ice axe ramp".

AREA :Hard snow or ice slope up to 50.

DESCRIPTION :Descend facing downhill, legs spread apart wider than hip width, this is to avoid snagging the crampon points on gaiters or slings and also for betterstability; feet either parallel or with the points facing slightly outwards herringbone style. All the points of the crampons must penetrate the ice. Theankles and knees are bent, the chest is bent forward (fig.29).

The feet are stomped energetically on the ice. Before moving one foot, entire body weight is placed progressively on the supporting foot. The weightis placed by moving the hips laterally. If the spike of the axe penetrates the ice, it may be used as a cane; otherwise, hold the axe horizontally infront of oneself using the ice axe crouch technique, being ready to plant the pick in the event of a fall.If the slope is too steep it is recommended to use the "ice axe ramp" technique.

ERRORS :

Tendency of sitting too much. Feet too close together. Tendency of leaning on the heels instead of the entire foot. Foot slides when placed on the ice. Not decided enough when placing the foot. Not enough confidence in the hold of the crampons. Equipment hanging off the harness (which can catch on the rear points of the crampons).

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"Ice axe ramp" : Plant the ice axe at the level of the feet. Descend by sliding the hand along the shaft of the axe as if it was a ramp and by pulling upon the handle so that it stays stuck in the ice.Descend the feet until the pick of the axe is at hip level, take out the axe by moving forth and back and by holding it by the head, grasp the axe againby the shaft and re-plant it.

Progressing facing forward using "ice axe traction".

AREA :Ice slope of approx. 50/55.

DESCRIPTION :In this exercise the use of crampons is identical to that when progressing using ice axe support (see ex:5,level:1).

On ice, ice axe support the pick doesn't penetrate the ice sufficiently, however using ice axe traction offers greater security (even if it is slower toremove the pick of the axe). Hold the axe by the base of the shaft (near the spike) and plant the axe in the ice at face level (fig.30) (see also level:4 -

ice axe traction, basic techniques).

The free hand leans on the ice for balance and may also be placed on the head of the axe in addition to the other hand on the shaft. Climb by makingshort steps and moving the hips laterally in order to allow for weight transfer and moving a leg higher. Stop with the feet at the same height and theaxe at chest level before re-planting the axe.When climbing short steeper sections it may be necessary to prepare stoups for the free hand making certain to cut several so that one is not found inan awkward position when removing the axe to cut stoups while on a steep section.

Frontal progression using two tools using "ice axe support".

AREA :Slope of hard snow or soft ice of about 50.DESCRIPTION :This exercise introduces for the first time the use of four articulations. The schema is hand-hand, foot-foot.From the starting position, feet at the same height, legs slightly spread apart, arms flexed supported by the axes at hip height, lift each of the foursegments and re-plant each one higher.Lift a foot but not before transferring the weight of the hips to the opposite leg. Place the second foot at the height of the first one to obtain the

original position. Link these moves in order to obtain a rhythm (fig.31).

ERRORS :

Heels too high. Axes planted instead of placed. Chest too close to the slope. Too long of steps. Axes placed too high.

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Frontal progression "amble".

AREA :Slope of hard snow of about 45/50.

DESCRIPTION :Whereas in the proceeding exercise, one moved first the feet then the arms, in this exercise one moves alternately an arm and the corresponding leg(amble). The right arm and right leg move together and vice versa, the feet are not grouped together but stay one above the other, the axes are usedpreferably for support but also as traction (fig.32). This exercise commits a fundamental balance error but offers rapid progression and needs optimal

physical condition.

ERROR :

Not lifting both the arm and leg and therefore giving way to two disadvantages : slowness in progression and a moment being out of balance.

Note : Outside of this exercise, when ice climbing one sometimes moves the opposite leg and arm : right arm/left leg, left arm/right leg, and onlymoves one member at a time.

Progressing on mixed terrain (walking on rocks with crampons).

AREA :Moraine or ravine having large stable rocks.

DESCRIPTION :Getting used to walking on stones with crampons, using the technique flat feet; the axe is used as a pole. Acquiring a feeling for moving withcrampons on.

(Climbing on rock wearing crampons)

AREA :An easy pitch of rock at a cliff, on a top rope.

DESCRIPTION :Getting used to always placing the points of the crampons on ledges, small holds and in cracks. Gaining confidence in the hold of the front points. Thefeet are never placed sideways, and never placed on the inside of the foot.

ERRORS :Scraping the rock with the points or the inside of the foot.

(Mixed climbing using an ice axe and crampons).

AREA :Wall of rock and ice.

DESCRIPTION :

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On ice, as on the rock, use the front point technique, the axe can be used to scrape off any ice on holds or by planting it, sticking the shaft, orwedging, hooking the pick on the rock. When the rock is ice free, and the axe is not used it should be kept behind the shoulder strap of the pack.

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"Ice axe traction" basic techniques1 - Using the ice axe

2 - Removing the axe

3 - Basic position and using crampons

4 - Basic position when traversing

Using the axe.

AREA :At the foot of a wall of ice (even short) having an inclination of at least 75.

DESCRIPTION :Keeping the feet on the ground, grasp the axe at the lowest part of shaft making sure that the leash is always taunt (fig.33).

Prepare the swing by starting with the axe behind the shoulder and bending the wrist at a right angle - 90 between the shaft and the forearm(fig.34).

The swing starts with the shoulder and progressively goes down the arm, the forearm and the wrist follow a strait line in regards to the wall.At the moment of impact, the wrist snaps forward to increase the strike while the hand releases in order not to slow down the kinetic energy of theaxe (fig.35).

Repeat this exercise several times, keeping the feet on the ground, with one hand then the other. Do not allow the elbow to go past the shoulderwhen setting up for the swing (fig.36).

ERRORS :

The axe does not penetrate the ice, or by only a few centimeters.

CAUSE :The energy given to the head of the axe is too little; the swing does not come from behind the shoulder and did not use all the correct muscles; at themoment of impact there is no snap of the wrist or the shaft was held too far to the inside.At the moment of impact the pick of the axe twists laterally.

CAUSE :

The swinging movement was not developed following a straight line in relation to the ice wall (fig.37).

The axe penetrates the ice at an undesired point.

ce axe traction" basic techniques

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CORRECTION :Do not limit oneself to choosing a single impact point, but before swinging, place the arm in the final position with the pick touching the ice. Practiceswinging at a marked spot in the ice.Not having confidence in the hold of the tools.CORRECTION :Starting on the ground, after having placed the two tools, hang by lifting one's feet off the ground. Do the same on just one arm.

Extracting the axe

AREA :At the foot of a wall of ice (even short) having an inclination of at least 75.

DESCRIPTION :After having planted the axe, wiggle the axe using a front to back movement in the same direction as the pick. If the axe is planted at shoulder heightor lower than this, it is possible to let go of the shaft with one's hand and to remove the axe by hitting the head of the axe or under the adze orhammer with one's palm (fig.38).

ERROR :

Removing the axe by using sideways movements right/left (fig.39), provokes a rotation of the pick which may end up breaking it.

Note : When removing a tubular blade, one uses a rotation right/left of the shaft.

Basic position and using crampons.

AREA :Brief walls of ice of approx. 70/75.

DESCRIPTION :Plant the two axes above the head at the same height. Lift the feet off the ground keeping the legs slightly spread apart (fig.40). The crampons must

penetrate the ice with the front points. The force of the kick of the foot should be given depending upon the type of ice and crampon used. The sole of

the boot is kept about horizontal (fig.41). The crampon strikes the ice perpendicular to the surface.Once the tools are placed, adopt the following position with one's body : Knees slightly bent, the back towards the rear and the shoulders well awayfrom the wall (fig.42). This is the basic position. Body weight is largely supported by the lower members and the axes are mainly used for keeping

balance and for avoiding falling backwards.

ERRORS :

The crampon does not penetrate the ice and bounces off.

CAUSE :The kick is given using too much energy. The foot is not kept horizontal and perpendicular to the ice.

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Crampons (particularly traditional) have a tendency to come out of the ice.

CAUSE :The heel is too high when compared to the front points and acts as a lever which causes the points to pop out (fig.43). This also happens if the heel is

placed too low, in this case it is the lower front points which create a lever. Once the crampon is planted, it should not be moved.

Not having confidence in the hold of the crampons.

CORRECTION :

On a shallower slope (65) climb using only one axe, then no without an axe. the shoulders are too close to the wall and the hips too far to the rear; all the weight of the body is on the upper limbs (fig.44).

The axes are planted too high (fig.45), too spread apart (fig.46), or too close together (fig.47).

Basic progression traversing.

AREA :Ice wall 70/75, at least three or four meters wide.

DESCRIPTION :Start at one end of the wall. From the basic position, plant one axe in the desired direction of travel, laterally slightly above head height, trying tokeep the shaft of the axe as near to vertical as possible.By taking small steps using the front points, traverse horizontally towards the axe until one's foot is below the axe (left foot for left axe, and viceversa). Take out the other axe and place it next to without being to close to the second axe (fig.48 to 53).

Both hands and feet are positioned in two parallel lines, body weight is almost entirely on the feet.

ERRORS :

Starting by moving the foot instead of the hand. The move is therefore long and difficult. Taking too long of steps or reaching too far, therefore one pulls on the tools and is too close to the wall.

CORRECTION :Take short steps in order to keep the center of gravity on the foot supporting body weight and only relying on the tools for balance.

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Fundamental study of progressing using "ice axe traction"1 - "Primary" progression

2 - "Primary" progression when spread apart

3 - Basic progression in balance using "a triangle" and placing a screw

4 - "Primary" progression and placing screws when leading

"Primary progression".

AREA :Brief ice walls of approx. 70/75, climbed on top rope.

DESCRIPTION :From the basic position move backwards and lower the hips so that they are away from the wall until one is hanging from the tools.Take three small steps, the first one should be taken towards the center of gravity (in order to stay in balance), the axes should be at face level whenfinished.Each time a crampon is planted one should move above it until the leg is fully extended before planting the other one. This way the arms closeprogressively.In order to lift a leg, the hips should be displaced before and centered over the weight supporting foot.These continuous moves to the right and left over the center of gravity allow one to develop a smooth style and an also to be as effective as possiblewhen moving (fig.54 to 62).

Finish the cycle by returning to the basic starting position, the hips against the wall (fig.63,64).

ERRORS :

It is tiring to lift the lower limbs.

REASON :

The chest is not far enough away from the wall when lifting the feet (fig.65).

It is difficult or impossible to anchor the tools without excessive fatigue.

REASON :

The chest and shoulders are too close to the wall, therefore the swing comes from only the wrist; the tool doesn't follow an ample rotation or

undamental study of progressing using "ice axe traction"



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swing (fig.66).

It is necessary to shove the hips in order to lift the legs.

REASON :

The hips are not placed vertically over the supporting foot and one tries to lift a limb that has weight on it (fig.67).

The axes are placed too close to one another (fig.47), or too far apart (fig.46). Balance is not as good and it is tiring to hang from the tools.

The feet are too close to one another (fig.68), risk loosing balance and snagging the leg with a crampon. The feet are too far apart, it becomes

very difficult if not impossible to place the hips over the weight supporting foot. The first step is often too high and off centered. The moves therefore become abrupt, one pulls too much on the tools and the moves are not

as smooth. Trying to pull a tool out of the ice, not being able to then trying to pull out the other tool. This risks having both tools pull out. One should

always try to pull out the tool that is believed to be the least solid.

"Primary" progression spread out.

AREA :Small ice walls of approx. 75/80, climbed on top rope that have small dihedrals, cracks or other forms that are climbable using a spread out position.

DESCRIPTION :From the basic starting position with feet more spread apart at the start, take three small steps and come back to the original position (fig.69 to 74).

The difference here when compared to the proceeding exercise being able to understand the importance of the first step taken towards horizontallytowards the center and not upwards.If the feet are not at the same height, the first foot to move upwards shall be the highest one.When climbing dihedrals or in any other confined situation, it is possible to use one's hips and back to create an opposition and a lateral push with thefeet.Leaning on the elbow also allows the corresponding leg to be un-weighted in positions where it is difficult to find the center of gravity.

ERRORS :

The feet are never placed together and the moves are always spread apart which results in excessive pulling on the tool that is opposite thefoot one wants to lift (fig.75).

It is tiring and delicate to lift one's foot towards the inside when starting the move.

CORRECTION :Hang more from the tools and lower one's hips in order to better center over the weight supporting foot.



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Basic position balanced in a "Triangle" and placing a screw.

AREA :Ice wall of approx. 75/80.

DESCRIPTION :The basic triangle position, allows one to adopt a balanced rest position on only three limbs (one arm and two feet).The feet are placed at the same height and the axe is placed a little higher than head level along an imaginary axis that connects the head, the hipsand the center of the feet (fig.76).

Place an axe above one's head, and position one's feet in a way to form a triangle; the legs slightly spread apart and the knees bent. The hips arepushed towards the wall, the chest and shoulders away from the ice (fig.77).

The higher arm, which we can also call the "principal arm", should be semi-bent, the other axe is below not being used for balance. From this positionremove one's hand from the leash of the lower axe, grab a screw (tubular screw in) from the harness and start screwing at stomach height, whichallows one to have more strength when pushing into the ice (fig.78 and 79); the more the screw is placed higher or laterally the more effort is needed

to make it penetrate.

Placing a screw is a particular moment, not directly associated with progressing but where the basic balanced position (triangle) is essential.(it is recommended to practice placing screws with both hands).

ERRORS :

The legs are not at the same height and the body is off center (fig.80).

The higher arm is not in a plumb line with the hips and center of the feet (an inverted V), but on only one of the two feet which is prone torotation (fig.81 and 82) and can easily result in loosing balance.

The hips are not pushed towards the wall and result in excessive pulling on the tools. The shoulders and the chest are too close to the ice. The axes are at the same height and balance is not spread out over three points. The screw is placed too high or laterally.

"Primary" Progression and placing screws while leading.

AREA :Short length of rope approx. 70/75.

DESCRIPTION :The student lead climbs but is belayed by a top rope. The goal is for the climber to climb using the primary technique at the same time choosing theright spots for placing screws using the basic position (triangle method). The student, during this exercise, gets accustomed to delicate operationssuch as placing a screw or clipping the rope with one hand.The exercise offers a lead climbing situation under maximal security conditions.At a second stage it is possible to eliminate the top rope having pre-placed screws at crucial spots beforehand, the student only placing intermediatescrews.



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Ice axe traction progression "evolved"1 - Using "evolved progression" the axes and the crampons

2 - Progression using a basic "triangle"

3 - Progression using an "evolved" triangle

4 - Descending using a "triangle"

5 - Progression feet at different heights

6 - Progression using bringing the feet together

7 - Progression "evolved" when traversing

Using "evolved" techniques for crampons and tools.

AREA :Small ice walls offering particular workable forms : icicles, cauliflower, mushroom, air pockets and fragile ice.

DESCRIPTION :Anchor the tools in these forms being careful not to plant them but rather hook them or wedge them so as not to destroy the ice. The axes often onlyhold when pulled on downwards using traction.The experience on this terrain helped favor the evolution of the equipment and gave birth to tools with sharply bent shafts, which allows especiallywhen climbing cauliflower ice, to obtain an optimal placement when compared to traditional shafts where the shaft is more of an obstacle in obtaininga good anchor (fig.83). When climbing icicles, the axe should be placed by taking little short swings coming from the wrist and not the shoulders or

the arms in such that a small hole is made in which the blade is then hooked. Generally speaking this type of ice requires small, precise moves ratherthan a traditional swing.It is necessary to practice a lot in order to obtain precision and a feeling for the hold of the tools. On very thin ice or on fragile, thin structures, it maybe difficult or even impossible to place or hook both tools. In this case it is possible to hook one pick on the head of the other which allows one to usethe strength of both arms to obtain a higher tool placement.Similarly, crampons have evolved as well, allowing them to be used on these types of ice which is quite different from that for which they weretraditionally used, for example : kicking straight on with the foot in order for the front points to penetrate.The job of the guide or alpine climbing instructor is to progressively bring the student to use his feet better and with more precision. The hardergrades due to steepness but above all quality of the ice, requires using crampon techniques similar to those used when climbing with rock shoes. Thefour front points take on a similar importance as it is often necessary to place them rather than kick them. The inside and outside points are also veryimportant when placing one's weight on the feet.Lifting the foot onto vague terrain and using the points differently allow one to pull with crampon rather than simply push.Over time these new possibilities have allowed one to be sure even on fragile difficult structures, they require as do the tools, precision anddelicateness. On particularly fragile ice, a simple kick of the foot a bit to muscled can lead to the entire structure tumbling down.The crampon can also be used for counter balance or by hooking with the heel behind icicles or in holes in the ice. When used for counter balance, thefoot only pushes against the ice with the side of the crampons; when hooking, a better hook is possible when using heel points (spurs) (fig.84). It is

also possible to hook using the points under the foot by opening the knee towards the side and pulling the hips into the ice.Generally speaking, it is by continuous practice that the student is able to improve and adapt to the diverse situations that difficult ice can offers.

e axe traction progression "evolved"



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The exercise that allows one to obtain a lot of confidence when using crampons, is by climbing (on a top rope) on ice that has many different shapesand forms without using the axes, the hands using only ice holds. Try to count the number of swings one takes with the axes and try to progressivelyreduce them in order to increase the feeling and the quality of the placement.

Progressing using a basic "triangle".

AREA :Short length of rope approx. 75/80 on top rope.

DESCRIPTION :From the basic balanced position of the triangle (fig.85), lower the hips and hang the chest from the highest arm (principal arm), lift the feet using

three short steps the first in a plumb line under the highest axe, move up on each leg so that it is straight until one is again in a new triangle position,the face at the height of the head of the axe.Make these moves fluidly always placing the hips over the weighted foot. Do not interrupt the sequence until one has come back to the basic balancedposition (fig.86 to 89).

Only now at this moment, remove the lower tool and place it higher and a bit to the side of the other tool (fig.90). Take two steps sideways in orderto come back to the original position of the basic triangle (fig.91 to 93).

ERRORS :

Moving the feet without having correctly centered oneself.

CORRECTION :

If the hips are not moved sufficiently, increase the size of the rocking of the hips by exaggerating the moves. The first step is not centered or too long, which results in a jerky move and excessive pulling on the axe. The second tool is placed at the same height as the first.

REASON :The feet are not high enough. The axe is not placed in a position which allows one to use the full extension of the arm.CORRECTION :

After the first step which should be short and allows one to start without using too much energy, take bigger second and third steps. Theswinging movement from the arm should be done with the arm almost extended.

The axe is placed by hyper extending which doesn't allow one to verify the placement. This position does not allow one to remove the axe, thebody is stuck against the wall and already pulling on the tool.

The tools are placed too far apart (fig.94) or in the same vertical axis (fig.95).

In each case progressing will be perturbed both in smoothness and balance.For other general errors see the errors of exercise # 1 - level 5



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Favorable note for progression using the basic triangle :At first insight this technique can seem more difficult to use, and above all more tiring physically (pulling on only one tool instead of two). However itshould be considered that the main reason for fatigue comes mainly from the number of placements and from removing the tools. With the triangletechnique the number of swings is cut in half. Additionally, from a safety point of view, having the tools placed at different heights doesn't have thesame pullout effect on the ice, thus avoiding the danger of having ice plates break off, which in certain cases can sheer off and cause the climber tofall.

"Evolved" progression using the triangle.

AREA :Short length of rope approx. 75/80 on top rope.

DESCRIPTION :Start from the position of the triangle with he axe placed at face height. From this position, place the other axe higher and to the side in regards tothe first one. Lift up the feet by taking steps (the first foot moved should be the one opposite the side of the highest tool), returning thereafter to the

starting position (fig.96 to 101).Using this type of progression one does not return to the basic balanced position, (in a triangle) arm extended.As seen before in the proceeding exercises, moving the lower limbs should be proceeded by displacing the hips, and followed with as muchsmoothness as possible. Using this method, even very steep pitches can be climbed quickly and without excessive fatigue. The traditional method(axes at the same height) requires a greater number of swings and a greater physical demand.

VARIATION :When it is difficult to position one's feet in a triangle, it is interesting to use the corresponding foot and principal hand (higher) only for balance. Inthis case the final position is not actually the out of balance triangle so to speak, because the effective weight supporting parts are numbered of two :the highest arm and the opposite leg, the other leg is used only for balance.The center of gravity is obtained by the weight supporting foot (placed crampon) and balance is obtained by the axis between the arm, hips and leg(fig.102 to 106).

Descending using the "triangle".

AREA :Small ice wall three or four meters high approx. 70/75.

DESCRIPTION :From the basic position place the tool that is not used for balance, at shoulder height. Take two horizontal steps and position oneself in a triangle andlock off on the tool that was just placed. Remove the higher tool and replace it at the same height as the other tool but not as deep since it is onlyused for balance (an intermediate placement) when descending the feet. Take three steps down in order to return to the starting balanced position ofthe triangle. Repeat the sequence by placing the tool that was placed as an intermediate anchor.

ERROR :When the tools are at the same height adopting a basic position (balanced on four points of support) without respecting the characteristics of thetriangle position.



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Progressing feet spread apart.

AREA :Short pitch approx. 80/85 maximum, on top rope, the ice favoring the use of the feet (steps, bumps, etc...)

DESCRIPTION :The triangle position allows one to spread out body weight evenly on the lower limbs without creating an excessive expenditure of energy in order tocompensate for being out of balance or rotating. In this exercise, a foot is placed much higher than the other and has the job of pulling the body andin particular the hips against the wall, in doing this also sharing some of the body weight.Here we have a case of figure where balance is spread out over three supporting limbs : one arm and two legs.The starting position of the exercise is the basic balanced triangle (fig.76). By taking two steps the first towards the center and the second very high

under the hips (heel-buttocks) one finds the position of the feet spread apart (fig.107).

One leg is relatively straight the other bent with the crampon pushing on the ice surface the heel almost touching the buttocks. The hips are flushagainst the ice almost sitting on the heel of the foot.The main arm opposite the straight leg, is almost in the axis of this leg; the head of the tool at face height (position locked off).

From this position place the other tool higher and to the side of the other, pull on the tools in order to lift the hips off the heel, lower this and place itslightly under in order to go back up without excessive effort.Take three little new steps using the hip moves to achieve the feet spread apart (the last step is the foot being brought to thigh height) (fig.108 to

114).

ERRORS :

Not lowering the foot when starting the move, making one take a long, tiring step and having to pull excessively on the tools. Finishing the move having the leg too low which doesn't allow one to place one's weight on it nor pull the hips towards the ice. The move done

only half way becomes more of a nuisance than a help. Not placing the hips on the heel therefore relying on the main arm/straight leg which favors the body rotating (barn door).

Progressing by bringing the feet together.

AREA :

Short pitch approx. 80/85 maximum, on top rope, the ice favoring the use of the feet for pushing.

DESCRIPTION :The starting position for this exercise is the same as for the proceeding exercise (fig.115). From this position, bring the pelvis over the highest foot by

pushing the hip as far as possible towards the bent knee which favors opening the hips and allows the lower foot to be lifted (bringing the feettogether).Position the foot at the same height as the other. The body is therefore gathered like "a frog" (fig.116).

By pushing at the same time with both legs, come back to the triangle position with an arm locked off (fig.117). Place the lower tool higher in order to

use it after the following two steps, the starting position : in a triangle feet spread apart (fig.118 to 120) or even go back to the basic balanced

triangle position.

ERRORS :



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when bringing the feet together pushing on only the weight supporting leg which requires a tremendous effort and incorrectly pulls very hardon the tools.

CORRECTION :Try to keep a gathered position and the arms straight until the feet are at the same height and weighted equally.

"Evolved" progression when traversing.

AREA :Wall at least 3 or 4 meters wide approx. 80/85, offering different ice forms.

DESCRIPTION :Start by using the basic balanced triangle position on one side of the wall. The main axe is the one opposite the direction of travel (bent arm). Moveonto the weighted leg (traverse side) using a balanced position, the other leg used for counter balance (fig.121). Place the other tool laterally and

move by taking two lateral steps (the axe may also be placed diagonally, but one must take care to pull in the direction of the shaft as not to torquethe pick). The foot used for counter balance then crosses in front of the weighted leg and is placed using the front points, the second step allows onecome back to the triangle position on the other tool (fig.122 to 124). The axe is more useful in keeping balance when traversing than for pulling on.

One can continue the traverse by crossing one tool over the other (fig.125).

When moving the feet they can be crossed over in front or behind.The static balance positions of the triangle can be either with counter balance or feet spread apart.All one must do is be careful to be in a triangle position when removing a tool.Crossing over the feet is done mainly by passing the foot in front but this traversing exercise should be used not only for solving a precise technicalproblem which can occur during a climb, but more so for introducing new moves more complex which occurs when traversing horizontally.This exercise is the first in which the student uses all the triangle positions brought up until now, trying to adapt to the ice configuration and thereforea real climbing situation.For the characteristics of moves used when traversing horizontally this exercise works particularly well in introducing the rotation of the chest (fig.126

to 130).

From the basic balanced triangle position, move by taking short steps to the lock off of the main tool and in order to increase efficiency, at the sametime diminishing muscular effort, rotate the chest towards the main arm (the biceps, the shoulder muscles, the pectoral and the dorsal muscles worktogether creating a lock off). The hip opposite the main tool is pushed against the wall, the knees and the feet are oriented in the same direction as

the chest (fig.126).The crampon corresponding to the main arm is placed using the inside front points and the other crampon using the outside points (the crampons areno longer placed perpendicular to the ice surface).To place the other tool it is necessary to open the corresponding shoulder in the desired direction of travel (fig.127).

Going from one triangle to the other, the moves when traversing also include rotating the chest when locking off. Special care needs to be taken whenrotating as not to torque the pick and in this case it is better to place the tools diagonally if the ice forms allow it (fig.128 to 130).

ERRORS :

Removing a tool when the body is not balanced (in a triangle). Pulling on a diagonally placed tool towards the bottom instead of in the direction of the shaft.



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CORRECTION :The arm should be as a continued part of the shaft, pulling on the same axis as the pick, the lateral push of a foot compensates for the diagonal pull.



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Progression "evolved" when traversing1 - Progression using a "triangle" with a body rotation

2 - Progression "evolved" on mixed terrain

3 - Particular positions

Progressing using a "triangle" and by rotating the body.

AREA :

Short vertical pitch offering different ice forms, to be climbed on top rope.

DESCRIPTION :From the basic balanced position of the triangle, and by taking two steps followed by moving the pelvis respectively, come back to the lock offposition always keeping the body lateral to the ice (see proceeding exercise). (fig.131 and 132).

Place the lowest tool as high as possible (fig.133) and by a series of steps climb by pivoting the body progressively and proportionally to the number

of steps, almost 180 towards the new main arm (the more steps taken the slower the rotation), (fig.134 to 136).

This exercise can also be done by using the leg on the main arm side of the body, as counter balance (balanced on two points, opposite hand andfoot). One can see that used in this way the difficulty, stemming from not only the use of the crampons inside/outside but also the tool placements(the shoulder is almost constantly in contact with the ice and in order to prepare for a swing, it must be moved back excessively from the ice), this isthe reason why this technique is recommended only when climbing on difficult ice or where the ice forms only allow hooking or where only a shortswing requiring little strength is used.

ERRORS :

Not turning the chest and pelvis to help lock off. Relentlessly using the crampons front points, perpendicular to the ice, therefore using a radical frontal position and not a lateral one.

VARIATION :A variation to this exercise that maybe helpful on thin columns, is progressing using two points.Adopt the characteristic position having two opposite placed limbs on the same vertical axis and keep the chest/pelvis twist against the wall.Make the lock off by pushing on the leg, place the tool over the other and change feet by taking a short hop (the second leg is used for counterbalance or hooked using the heel).

NOTE :

The tool lock off becomes more effective if it is accompanied by a chest/pelvis twist in the direction of the arm that is locked off. If one adds tothis a slight rotation of the feet and the knees so that the entire body is in a lateral position, one obtains optimum forces which help to

rogression "evolved" when traversing



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increase and better balance. In regards to the exercises "primary progression" and "evolved progression" on steep or overhanging terrain, one notes that it is necessary to

reduce the length of the arm lock off and therefore anticipate the next moves when the arms are straight.The push coming from the leg does not immediately come after the crampon placement but only once both feet have been placed. In this waylifting the feet and their placements will be done slowly and with the arms straight, followed immediately by the short phase of pushing on thelegs while locking off the arms.

Exercise : 2 "evolved" progression on mixed terrain.

The last few years we have been able to see an outburst in mixed climbing approached with a modern manner.For one, the search for always harder terrain to practice the use of tool traction has led to the discovery and the ascensions of walls on which ice onlycovers a part, and on which climbing the rock itself plays an important part. Also, the comeback of high mountain rock routes climbed during thewinter is becoming more frequent.The modern synthesis of these two winter practices : ice and rock, have given birth to this new playground.

The transfer of these techniques and that of high level rock climbing towards mixed climbing is a reality.The generation coming from climbing at crags and today competition on indoor walls have a high technical level (minimum French 7a), seem to beseduced by this new activity and the permanent desire to tackle these difficulties by "free" climbing them using a minimum amount of time. In thismanner, many rock moves which would nave been climbed using aid or on which the climber would have to have taken off his gloves, wastingvaluable time, are climbed today with the help of axes by wedging the picks of the tool in cracks or by hooking them on small holds.It is true that using axes wedged in cracks is not new, it is also true that this technique when pushed to the extreme has given birth to a new stylefrom which consequently comes the evolution of equipment.The axes available up to now and often used improperly did not stand up to the rough abuse imposed on them. Todays new tools are made with thisin mind : thick picks having a shape that allows them to be wedged in cracks and hooked on rock (which can be used in place of the adze orhammer), as well as parts of the tool having a shape allowing them to be wedged as a cam in cracks.All this said, one should not forget the uncertain character of this type of climbing, where the psychological component plays an important part andwhere the technical factor is more important than the athletic one.This last exercise of technical progression would like to be an introduction to this fabulous terrain so exciting and difficult.Area : Small rock wall if possible not vertical, offering cracks, holes and edges, and also having if possible an alternating sections of thin ice and barerock. To be climbed on top rope.

DESCRIPTION :

The first phase is gaining confidence in using the axe instead of the hands.Start by wedging the pick in a crack (it is best to use a pick designed for this). If the cracks are horizontal or diagonal, just pull down on the shaft inorder to correctly torque the pick and therefore its hold (fig.137and 138). For a vertical crack place the entire pick into the crack and pull down

trying to wedge the pick, or torque the shaft by pulling on it laterally towards oneself, placing the body laterally in regards to the crack (fig.139).

If the crack is large enough it is possible to place the entire head of the tool or one of the sides made for this (hammer, etc).Then, one can also anchor the pick in holes like a hook, on ledges or bumps on the rock.This precarious use, requires a lot of precision during the move and a feel for getting the most out of the tool.The crampons are also used differently, the difficult parts of rock sections make it necessary to use them as one would when wearing rock shoes.One favors using the inside or outside points instead of just the front points, in this way one can adapt body position to the difficulties encounteredwhile climbing the rock, pointing the knees towards the inside or outside so that the pelvis is closer to the wall.In certain cases (thin cracks or small holes), "mono point" crampons can offer a certain advantage (fig.138).

One can then learn to climb on thin ice covered rock. The tools are placed delicately so that they do not bounce off the rock and only once in order notto destroy the ice. One should practice to gain confidence in pulling on only the first tooth of the pick.



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As often as possible one should try to use the tools on the different forms available (bumps, cauliflower, etc). The crampons should also be placed insuch a way that their points penetrate the ice by simply pressing ones weight upon them. All the while practicing on top rope it is important to learnto place protection (pitons, friends, nuts, hooks, etc) so that one is able to master all the different parameters of the activity.To prepare for climbing pitches where the psychological involvement is high and the only security will be the perfect mastering of all these techniques,it is important to practice for a long time to develop ones feelings and be able to anticipate moves, therefore avoiding being caught in a situationwhere coming back is not possible and the only escape is up.

Exercise : 3 Particular positions.

AREA :Vertical or overhanging ice forms.

DESCRIPTION :The following exercise closing the technical progression treats the particular positions sometimes used when climbing vertical or overhanging icepresent on complicated ice structures one encounters (caves, curtains, parallel columns and other natural creations which require complex moves).

On this type of terrain climbing the ice becomes a refined art composed of hooking and using body positions that come directly from rock climbing.

Counter balanced crosses (in front or behind).They are part of progressing in a triangle and their goal is to counter act the off balance coming from a unilateral placement (ex : right hand /right foot). If the hand and the main foot are in line, the foot used for counter balance (crossed in front or behind) should compensate for thisthe slight body rotation that is caused by this move.

If the main foot is more to the inside in regards to the hand (fig.140), one should use a counter balance to the inside as well (reproducing the

same balance situation as the evolved triangle with the counter balanced feet, see level : 6 exercise : 3).

The more the foot is spread out from the bodys axis, the more the other foot should be spread out on the opposite side. If the main foot is more to the outside in regards to the tool (fig.141), one must use an outside counter balance.

Since one is wearing crampons, using counter balance on ice is more delicate than on rock and it is necessary to be very attentive not to snagones clothing or worse, legs.

Counter balance with feet hanging freely.When surmounting overhangs, to help assist locking off or placing a tool without pulling too much on the biceps, the body can make a insiderotation.The best position for surmounting this is to oppose the limbs on opposite sides of the body (ex : right hand / left foot), the other foot remains

as counter balance hanging freely and offering a passive resistance in the opposite direction to help stay in balance (fig.142). Drop knees.

This position should be regarded as a special case for progressing using a triangle with body rotation and to be used when there are no centralsupports or being doubtful and it is necessary to bring the hands and the feet together.In order to keep the center of gravity low and close to the wall, it is necessary to bend down and to the inside, the knee of the foot oppositethe main hand, the other foot placed in front and opposed. The chest remains open and therefore allows for an easier following placement.The closer the hands are to the feet, the more the knee should be dropped in the extreme case where the knee is lower than the foot (fig.143).

The advantage in using the drop knee when compared to a classic position spreading out the feet facing the wall, allows the pelvis to be muchcloser to the wall as it is placed at a profile. Balance is better and locking off on a tool is easier.On parallel columns it is possible to find a well balanced position by bending the leg opposite the main hand so that the foot is brought behindthe buttocks and pushed on the ice behind them. This position is already the start of a drop knee.

Hanging from the tools and hooking the feet dynamically.There can sometimes be a need, to come out of a cave or to climb above a curtain of overhanging ice, the need to hang for a brief moment on



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only ones tools or in extreme cases, on a single tool. These moves are only possible if the leashes are properly adjusted, and in this case, themuscular effort is not as intense as it may seem because it is the wrist that pulls and not the hand. The muscles used are those of the shoulderand not the forearm (fig.145).

In certain cases, where one has already placed a, or both tools above the overhang, either directly above or to one side, and the feet are readyto swing freely, it is possible to use the swing of the lower limbs voluntarily and dynamically to hook an ice form with ones feet. The spur canbe very useful in these extreme cases.This move must be made using decision and followed by a precise placement so as not to make jerky movements that uselessly waste energy.

Mantle shelfing.This situation is delicate and often the source of many problems for climbers with little experience. This type of move comes most of the timeat the end of a vertical pitch, on big cauliflower ice or on brief terraces that interrupt the wall.The first problem is to place ones axe in the horizontal part (and not on the angle which could cause the ice to shatter). The swing must comefrom the wrist being careful that the shaft doesnt hit the angle causing a poor placement. In these precise cases tools having bent shaftsbehind the head of the tool are very useful.Next, once one has placed the or both tools in the horizontal part, one must hang and move the pelvis back in order to be able to lift one orboth feet onto the flat surface (this dynamic move should be made with precision and decision so that the heels do not rise and the points

skate).One places a tool higher and brings the other foot up (arriving at a frontal grouped position "frog" or a lateral one) in order to finish the mantleshelf move.

These positions or sequences of particular moves can not be included in a specific exercise where repeating them would allow one to betterunderstand. It is only after continual practice that one can integrate these dynamisms. The ideal solution is to find a adapted terrain not high off theground and practice often so that one can perfection the moves.



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