Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review 20140718* · PDF fileRight On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review 20140718* 1985 Corvette Coupe Large 1:8 Scale ... Overall the body looks

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Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review 20140718* 1985 Corvette Coupe Large 1:8 Scale Monogram Model Kit #2608 Review

Review and Photos by Alan Mann

The Chevrolet Corvette (C4) is the fourth generation of a sports car produced by the Chevrolet division of General Motors for the 1984 through 1996 model years. The editors of Consumer Guide stated: "The first fully redesigned Corvette in 15 years was more sophisticated and more practical than the beloved Shark. And like previous generations, the new C4 only got better in time." The C4 Corvette was known for its evolved, sleek and modern look. In a departure from the fiberglass panels of its forbearers, the C4's rear bumpers and panels were made from molded plastics. The C4 coupe was the first general production Corvette to have a glass hatchback for better storage access. It also had all new brakes with aluminum calipers. The Corvette C4 came standard with an electronic dashboard with a digital liquid crystal display dash, with graphics for speed and RPM and digital displays for other important engine functions. For the Modeler: This review is based on the Monogram Kit # 2608 and is a 1985 Chevrolet Corvette in 1/8 scale. This kit was originally released in 1984 prior to Skill Levels but is listed for age 13 and up, so this would be considered a Skill Level 3. The kit consists of about 140 parts molded in Red, Black, Chrome and Clear with Rubber tires. With research I could only find this one box art and release date, the box and directions date this to the original 1984 release. If it was re-released I am unable to find it BUT the chassis has a 2001 date on the gas tank. This kit is still available online from E-Bay. Being a kit from the 80’s it does have some strong mold lines and the construction is simplified in some areas. Also being a model from the 80’s it does have some fit and finish issues that can be minor and workable if you take your time. Overall the body looks good with only the front bumper and hood being separate. The interior tub is one piece with the door panels molded in place, this makes painting more difficult. The suspension seems


correct and is detailed nicely. Some shortcuts were made on the chassis such as molding the mufflers and driveshaft in place. The motor is simple but well detailed; no wiring is included in this kit for the motor. The chassis is held in place with small screws also. The decals are very basic with interior dash details and some under hood details. The tires look correct and are molded with Goodyear markings. Overall dimensions of the completed build are; Length: 21-13/16”, Width: 8-1/2”, Height: 6”

BUILDING CAVIATS: Having organization and a proper work area is important if you want to build a model properly. But even without dedicated space a place to leave your build while you work is necessary. Being able to lay out your parts organized helps the build as you are not digging for parts in the box possibly losing or damaging them. Also you really should have a place to let painted parts cure. One of the major benefits of using automotive paint is a very fast drying time. You can get just as good results using Spray can products but they require a longer drying time. Automotive paint is FULLY cured in less than an hour and clear about 6 hours. Use a good quality airbrush to paint automotive products because Lacquer Thinner will destroy the cheaper ones quickly. ****NOTE**** Throughout the review you will find OPTIONAL IDEAS that I suggest. These are completely your choice. Not doing these steps will in no way affect the build, they are just ways to offer some personal and custom touches to your builds. OPTIONS will be noted. Construction:

PIC 1 PIC 2 Pic 1 shows the parts as they come from the box. Pic 2 shows the box art for this kit as released in the Monogram kit from 1984. Unless otherwise stated I use Testors Tube Glue (Orange Tube) for assembly of the parts. Other adhesives used in the construction are Superglue and Elmer’s Clear School Glue. Paints consist of Testors Enamel bottle paints unless noted and “Rattle can” spray paints. The body is finished using 1:1 automotive use paint products shot with an airbrush. **Note: Assembly paint colors may vary from instructions as I use colors that most model builders should have on hand and compliment my build design. Before beginning your build soak and wash your parts with a mild detergent like DAWN to remove any mold release agents and help with paint adhesion.


PIC 3 Here is the decal sheet that comes with this kit. These are typical older Monogram decals and don’t float easily so take your time. Being older decals they have quite a large clear carrier around the decal that needs to be trimmed to use the decal. I do not use setting solution on my builds and with these decals being from 1984 I would not try it for fear of damage. In fact I will re-coat these decals with a clear coat to protect them from falling apart due to age. I use Krylon Crystal Clear to coat decals with.

PIC 4 ***OPTIONAL IDEA*** License Plates: I decided to do custom license plates and personalize this kit a little. You can go to http://www.acme.com/licensemaker/ and create any custom plate you want for any State. Also, you can search photos online for designer license plates. You can save the photo and resize it to fit a model. Just print it on photo paper and you have a plate of your own. To print your plate for 1/8 scale kit, open your photo program and crop the plate so you just have the plate only. Re-size the image size

to make the Width 1-3/8 inches and make sure CONSTRAIN PROPORTIONS is on. Use 300 DPI for a crisp print. Save that and Print it on White Photo paper printing on High Quality Print Setting. You now have a proper sized plate to glue on your car. PIC 5 This build starts with the body. All the parts need to be prepared for paint by sanding them with 800-1000 grit sandpaper. Primer all the parts and re-sand with 1000 grit. You will note in the following picture there are mold lines you need to remove prior to finishing. Sand these areas smooth. Being this is a solid body with multiple colors I will paint this in steps and explain how to do each area I paint. This is less the than optimal way to construct a model. Starting with the finished body will open many chances of damaging the finish while building the kit. Take care to work slowly and protect the body’s finish.

PIC 6 Mold lines on the roof are circled. Mold lines on the rear hatch are circled. Mold lines on the rear corners are circled. All of the mold lines are on BOTH SIDES of the body.


PIC 7 Once the body and all parts are in Primer let that cure and water sand it to 1000 grit. You are now ready for the next step in the paint job.

PIC 8 PIC 9 It is easier to start with the engine bay and paint that prior to the car color. Spray the inside of the engine bay area Flat Black and tape it off to protect it from the next color. See the Photo for how I taped it.

PIC 10 For the base color I used General Motors VICTORY RED. I painted 3 coats on all the parts of the body that will be Red.


PIC 11 Next I masked off the centerline molding on the body and I will paint that Black by hand. Once completed and dried I will do any touch up repairs by hand. As there are no decals that go on the body of this car I will Clear Coat it and finish the paint work now. PIC 12 The parts to assemble the front bumper include both side marker lenses and the front light housings and lenses. Paint the marker lens Silver on the back side of the lens larger side and Turn Signal Orange on the smaller side. On the front of the lens paint the frame Black. Assemble the marker lenses in place in the sides of the bumper with Elmer’s Glue.

PIC 13 Insert the Clear light lens into the light housings with Elmer’s Glue and install those units into the front holes in the bumper. All attachments are done from the back side of the bumper, See the finished picture.


PIC 14 Install the front bumper on to the front of the car body. Decal OO installs on the overflow bottle cap on the right side. Note on the front bumper: The bumper glues directly to the front molding, there are no real positive attachment point beyond two small pins for alignment.

PIC 15 PIC 16 Install the radiator next. Paint the radiator Silver. Paint the fan and fan mount Black. Insert the fan into the mount and attach that unit to the radiator. Slide the radiator behind the fan shroud and sandwich the shroud between the radiator and the fan mount. Attach the radiator cap to the radiator. Decal GG is centered on the fan shroud inner top.

PIC 17 PIC 18 Assemble the Dash next. Paint the dash front and top Satin Black. Paint the lower dash area on both sides Interior Color. Assemble the steering column and paint that and the steering wheel Satin Black. On the steering wheel detail the emblem with Red and White as per the Corvette Logo design. Paint the center mount of the steering wheel Aluminum.


PIC 18 Insert the column into the dash and install the wheel on to the column. Install the top of the dash on to the front.

PIC 19 Here is a close up of the dash details and decal placement. Cut the instrument panel to shape and use Elmer’s Glue on the back side on the panel and glue the decal in place. Decals AA,BB and CC go under the instrument panel. Decal DD goes over the panel right side. Decal 1A,2A,3A and 4A go in the center of the dash panel.

PIC 20 PIC 21 The rear glass and side markers are installed next. There is a frosted edge on the glass inside. Mask and paint that Black from the inside. Install the glass on the body. Paint the marker lens Silver on the back side of the lens larger side and Brake Light Red on the smaller side. On the front of the

lens paint the frame Black. Assemble the marker lenses in place in the sides of the rear fender with Elmer’s Glue.


PIC 22 PIC 23 The interior is assembled next. Paint the interior tub your color choice, I did Tan. Detail the door panel, storage area molding and tie down panels in Satin Black. Paint the seat fronts Interior Color and the seat backs Satin Black. Paint the shifter Flat Black and the center console Satin Black. Paint the pedals Flat Black. Assemble the seat backs to the seat fronts and attach them in the interior. Insert the shifter in place in the console and attach that to the center console. Attach the pedals in place.

PIC 24 PIC 25***OPTIONAL IDEA*** As people buy custom floor mats for their real cars why not have ones for their models? This idea is FREE to do and easy. Search the internet for car floor mats; use the pictures of the flat mat display and save it. In your photo program resize the front mats to fit the front floor area. For the Driver side mat you need 2-1/64” wide by 2-1/2” tall and the passenger side 1-5/8” wide by 2-1/2” tall measured at the widest point of the mat. Print them at 300 DPI on plain paper. Glue the paper to Black card stock and cut out the mat. A dab of White Glue on the floor will hold them in place.


PIC 26 PIC 27 Install the interior into the body now. There are two tabs on the front to line it up. Glue the interior in place. I will also use Masking tape on the inside back to hold it in place for a little extra support.

PIC 28 Install the Dash into the interior through the front windshield.


PIC 29 Line it up straight to the console and under the windshield molding on the body and glue it in place.

PIC 30 PIC 31 The Windshield is installed now. Mask and paint the frosted area Black from the inside. Paint the mirror Black. Attach the mirror to the windshield and slide the windshield in place gluing it with Elmer’s White Glue.

PIC 32 PIC 33 Assemble the hood now. Paint the hood brace and fender wells Flat Black. Detail paint the headlight housing Silver and install the clear lenses with Elmer’s Glue. Paint the Emblem Black with the Corvette Logo detailed in White and Red. Install the hood brace in place on the underside of the hood. Attach the headlights in place. Attach the fender wells in place. Use Decal LL, KK and HH under the hood. Install the emblem to the hood front.


PIC 34 These are the rear suspension parts. Paint the carrier, spindles and brakes Aluminum. Paint the rear axle Steel with an Aluminum Differential cover. Paint the spring Flat Black. Paint the radius arm Steel. The calipers on the brakes are Gold. Paint the wheel backs Aluminum. Do not paint the wheel retainers.

PIC 35 Assemble the carrier and axle. Attach the spindles on to each axle. Attach the spring to the back of the carrier. Attach the radius arm to the back of the carrier. Slide the brakes in place (calipers face the differential). Slide the wheel retainers into the wheel backs (DO NOT GLUE). Attach the wheel

retainers to the axles with a dab of glue on the axle pin only. This will allow the car to roll when built. *NOTE* If you DO NOT want the car to roll, glue the wheel retainers to the wheel backs during assembly. **NOTE** On the axles there are some mold lines to remove.

PIC 36 PIC 37 The chassis is next. Note the Copyright date on the gas tank that needs to be removed. It is lightly molded and will sand of easily. Paint the Shocks the color of your favorite brand. GM uses Black but Yellow, Blue and Red are standard shock colors for most major brands. Also the shocks have a molding line to remove. Paint the Chassis floor pan Primer Gray. The frame work is Satin Black with the rear fender well and suspension area Flat Black. The gas tank is Gloss Black. Paint the mufflers Silver. Paint the catalytic converter a 50/50 mix of Copper and Gold. Paint the differential Aluminum with a Black driveshaft.


PIC 38 Attach the rear suspension unit and shocks to the chassis. Paint the rear exhaust pipe Steel and attach that to the catalytic converter and mufflers.

PIC 39 Attach the exhaust tips to the back of the mufflers through the holes from the inside.


PIC 40 Here is the front suspension. Paint the torsion bar Steel. Paint the Brakes Aluminum with Gold calipers. Paint the spindles Black. Paint the suspension Black. Paint the shocks to match the back ones. Paint the steering link Steel with Flat Black boots. Paint the wheel backs Aluminum. Do not paint the retainers. Remove all mold lines prior to painting. Slide the torsion bar in place under the suspension supports on the frame. Attach the brakes to the spindle, calipers will face the frame and to the back. Install the spindles into the A-arms on the frame DO NOT GLUE. Attach the spindles to the suspension but DO NOT GLUE; glue the suspension to the frame support. Insert the shocks between the A-arms and glue in place.

PIC 41 Insert the steering link through the frame and suspension and SNAP it onto the spindle DO NOT GLUE. Slide the wheel retainers into the wheel backs (DO NOT GLUE). Attach the wheel retainers to the axles with a dab of glue on the axle pin only. This will allow the car to roll and pose the steering when built. *NOTE* If you DO NOT want the car to roll, glue the wheel retainers to the wheel backs during assembly **NOTE** The instructions have you start on the motor now. I want to complete the chassis assembly and install the tires prior to installing the chassis to the body so I will do the tires now instead of as the final step. Installing the tires early will not affect the build in any form, it is personal preference.


PIC 42 Here are the tire parts; you will have 4 of each. To create a more realistic look use 220 grit sandpaper and roll the tire while pressing it on the sandpaper. It will make a rough used look to the tire tread. The hub insert needs the logo painted in Red and White.

PIC 43 PIC 44 As seen in the picture these are directional tires. You will note there is an R or L on each tire in the webbing you will remove. That shows what side the tire belongs on, R=Passenger L=Driver. For ease of assembly do one side at a time and install each tire where it belongs. Trim out the webbing. Insert the hub cover into the rim and insert the outer rim into the tire. Install the tire on the wheel backs. The outer wheel covers are also directional so make sure the venting is facing forward.

PIC 45 Here is the rolling chassis. Again note the direction of the wheel covers with the venting going forward.


PIC 46 Here are the motor parts to assemble the motor. The block should be assembled prior to painting to ease the paint work. Assemble the block halves, heads and water pump Paint the Block Black with a Steel transmission and detail the transmission pan Silver. Pant the intake, exhaust manifolds and injector unit Steel. Paint the valve covers, intake pipes and intake plenum Aluminum. Use Decal EE and JJ on the valve covers Decal FF is on the plenum. Paint the oil filter Blue. Paint the starter Black with a Gold solenoid. Assemble and paint the Distributor Tan with a Steel base and Black electronics unit.

PIC 47 Note that The block has is a parting line through it after assembly that needs attention.

PIC 48 PIC 49 Here is the completed motor assembly. Attach the manifold to the block. Install the valve covers, oil filter and starter and exhaust manifolds in place. Install the injector unit onto the manifold and intake pipes to it. Install the distributor. Finally install the intake plenum. If you note on the photo of the right side there is a tab that would be a FUEL PUMP location. There was no fuel pump in the kit nor did the directions call for one to be installed.


PIC 50 PIC 51 Install the motor into the chassis at this time. Line up the motor mounts to the notches on the motor and the tab on the floor pan to the hole in the transmission. You should have painted the exhaust pipe Steel earlier with the other pipe, if not paint it now and install it into the catalytic converter and to the exhaust manifolds.

PIC 52 Here is an overall shot of the completed chassis. You are now ready to mount this into the body of the car.

PIC 53 PIC 54 The chassis is now mated to the body. Start from the back and angle the chassis into the rear bumper and carefully pull out the sides at the rear fenders. The chassis will almost fall into place with no effort. Line up the front end of the chassis and install the two screws through the front pan and into the body, there are screw holes that should line up. In the under hood area near the firewall there are two more screws to install. Do not over tighten the screws.


NOTE: Although the directions show installing the hood next it is much easier to install that LAST and finish the under hood assemblies prior to the hood installation. Skip this step and move on to the under hood installations.

PIC 55 PIC 56 Here are the parts for the front of the motor. Paint the belt Flat Black with Black pulleys. The AC unit and power steering unit are Black. The pollution control unit is Steel. Decal NN goes on the AC unit. Paint the radiator hoses Flat Black. The intake duct is Satin Black with a Flat Black tube. Paint the AC hose Flat Black. Install the lower radiator in place. Assemble the belt unit by attaching the AC, pollution control, power steering and the assembled alternator in place. Add the alternator bracket to the alternator. Attach that assembly to the front of the motor. Install the upper radiator hose in place. Attach the intake duct and AC hose in place. There are no positive attachment points for the AC hose you kind of have to guess how to install it…

PIC 57 Here are the final under hood parts. Paint the AC blower and battery Black. Decal MM goes on the AC blower. There are 3 decals for the battery that are not numbered. Paint the body braces Flat Black.

PIC 58 Assemble the brake booster and paint the booster Black with Steel master cylinder and Gray covers. Install the AC blower to the Right firewall and the battery to the Left firewall. Install the braces in place. Install the brake booster in place.


Pic 59 Here is a completed shot of the engine compartment.

PIC 60 PIC 61 These are the parts to finish the rear end assembly. Paint the tail lights Red and the tag lights White on the back sides. To assemble use Elmer’s White Glue to install the lights into place. Cut your tag to size and glue it in place. If you use the supplied tag do not use water to install it as a decal, just trim to size and glue in place. NOTE: There should be an emblem on the trunk gas door. My kit was missing this emblem. While not detrimental to the build it is still missing.


PIC 62 PIC 63 The mirrors are installed now. Glue the mirror face into place on each mirror and glue the mirrors on to the body. There is a location tab for the mirror but no positive attachment points.

PIC 64 PIC 65 The final assembly is adding the hood to the car. Note in the picture the hinge and tab set up on the frame and hood. Slide one side of the hood to the tab and carefully wedge the other side into place. The hood will now freely open and close. There is a hood prop included if you wish to display the hood in the open position. NOTE: I did not have any leftover parts from this build. I used all the parts supplied. This kit was missing a couple of parts as it was an open kit from years ago so the parts may have been misplaced and not necessarily missing originally. They were not structurally detrimental to the build and mostly covered up inside other assemblies.


999 OVERALL IMPRESSIONS: For the most part this is a good build. It assembles fairly easy and when completed actually FITS together. But on the bad side being a kit from the 80’s the fit and finish is not the best, assembly can be tricky as connection points are not given and locations of parts is not clear. The directions do not always clearly state where a part goes and there is construction issues if you follow the directions step by step. Knowledge of how to build a Corvette C4 kit helps because there are minor issues that all kits run into with this car design. The Chassis builds up nicely and all the parts fit well. Although simplistic; the overall look is good. The motor is simple and does have a few shortfalls such as parts not supplied but locations for them. The interior is overly simplistic. Even though the real car has a sparse interior, this is basic! The body looks good finished. The glass is not the best fit but is OK. The hood is a tad on the miss-fit side but is typical of this car design and it does fit pretty close. For a kit of this size I would have expected engine detail wire and more overall details throughout the whole build. I like the build and the finished kit will look good on the shelf but could have been a lot more. On a scale of 1 to 10 this build will rate at a 6 to 6-1/2 because of the shortfalls. For its age it is good but by today’s standards it is a bit lacking.

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Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review 20140718* · PDF fileRight On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review 20140718* 1985 Corvette Coupe Large 1:8 Scale ... Overall the body looks