Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review 20140519

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Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review 20140519* Hawaiian Charger Funny Car 1:16 Scale Revell Model Kit #85-4082 Review

Review and Photos by Alan Mann

Roland Leong owned and maintained a stable of “Hawaiian” Top Fuel and Funny Car vehicles. With a succession of top drivers, his vehicles won drag races all over the country. In 1969 Leong abandoned his Top Fuel Dragster teams in favor of the burgeoning Funny Car class. The following year, with driver Larry Reyes, Leong ran a 1970 Dodge Charger AA/Funny Car that won its class at the 1970 NHRA Winter Nationals. In 1971, Leong's "Hawaiian" Funny Car repeated at Pomona, winning Funny Car Eliminator again, this time with Butch Maas driving. In 1973 Leong teamed up with Revell as a sponsor. Throughout the 1970s and into the early 1980s, Leong campaigned a variety of "Hawaiian" Funny Cars, both in NHRA competition, as well as "match racing" at smaller, independent tracks. With so many legendary wins, Revell had to have a model of the Hawaiian Charger Funny Car. These kits took the modeling world by storm in a wave that rivaled the real car's success. For the modeler: This review is based on the Revell # 85-4082 Hawaiian Charger Funny Car. This kit is 1/16 Scale Skill level 3 for the Advanced builder and contains 154 parts. The kit is molded in White, Clear and Chrome and has Vinyl Tires and includes Vinyl Tubing and Wires for engine detailing. This kit has seen a few different box-art designs over the years and has had multiple re-issues: this is a 100% Reissue (Re-Pop). The original kit has had almost no changes in any releases besides decals. The copyright stamp on the chassis reads 1988 and the decals read 2014, so this is still based on the original molds. We have seen this as the Chi-Town Hustler, Gene Snow and other versions of the Hawaiian. Based on research I could find no real car that used these graphics so I would guess Revell took a tad bit of “Artistic License”


with this release replicating a possible 1971-72 paint version. The motor is very detailed and includes tubing to wire and run lines it is almost a model in its own right. The rail chassis is well designed and fits together nice. The body is showing its age with some strong mold lines but it’s solid and straight. The decals look nice and are Revell’s top quality even if they are sort of “Phantom” set that probably was never seen on the real car. Revell took a collected design of the real cars to create this set. This release has both the Centerline style rims and the American Racing style rims but only the American Racing rims fit the tires. The tires are unbranded but research shows many times Leong ran plain black-walled tires so this could be considered correct. Overall dimensions of the finished build are: Length: 11-15/16", Width: 4-3/16", Height: 3-1/4". BUILDING CAVIATS: Having organization and a proper work area is important if you want to build a model properly. But even without dedicated space a place to leave your build while you work is necessary. Being able to lay out your parts organized helps the build as you are not digging for parts in the box possibly losing or damaging them. Also you really should have a place to let painted parts cure. One of the major benefits of using automotive paint is a very fast drying time. You can get just as good results using Spray can products but they require a longer drying time. Automotive paint is FULLY cured in less than an hour and clear about 6 hours. Use a good quality airbrush to paint automotive products because Lacquer Thinner will destroy the cheaper ones quickly. ****NOTE**** Throughout the review you will find OPTIONAL IDEAS that I suggest. These are completely your choice. Not doing these steps will in no way affect the build, they are just ways to offer some personal and custom touches to your builds. OPTIONS will be noted.

Pic 1 shows the parts as they come from the box. Pic 2 shows the box art for this kit as released in the Revell 2014 Hawaiian Charger re-issue version. Unless otherwise stated I use Testors Tube Glue (Orange Tube) for assembly of the parts. Other adhesives used in the construction are Superglue and Elmer’s Clear School Glue. Paints consist of Testors Enamel bottle paints unless noted and “Rattle can” spray paints. The body is finished using 1:1 automotive use paint products shot with an airbrush. **Note: Assembly paint colors may vary from instructions as I use colors that most model builders should have on hand and compliment my build design. Before beginning your build soak and wash your parts with a mild detergent like DAWN to remove any mold release agents and help with paint adhesion.

Pic 3 is the decal sheet that comes with this kit version. These are typical Revell decals and float easy with a nice smooth transfer. I do not usually use setting solution on my builds and have no need with most Revell decals. As usual I did not need setting solutions here.


Pic 4 is a shot of the main motor assembly pieces. Painting the motor is difficult for specific build accuracy. The directions instruct you to paint the main block unit Black but the reference photos I find are all different shades of metal. Also the valve covers are shown in the reference photos being Black, Chrome and Aluminum on different cars. Based on my references there was no standard color, you should choose colors based on your own reference decisions. Painting: First assemble the block, heads and timing cover. I painted my motor block Aluminum. Paint the intake and oil pan Gold. Assemble the top pulley and paint it and the lower pulley Steel. The fuel pump is Aluminum with Blue and Red connections. The oil line union is Aluminum with a blue connector. I painted my valve covers Black. Strip the chrome by soaking them in Bleach until they are de-chromed. The soaking took about 15 minutes to completely remove all the chrome. Clean them good to remove Bleach residue and paint as usual. Decal #30 is optional and goes on the valve covers, the real cars vary at having them.

Pic 5 This is the motor assembly at this point. As detail is extensive on this motor assembly I will show it in stages.


Pic 6 shows the parts to continue motor assembly. The instructions have a template for cutting the tubing used in the build. For this review I will add actual measurements. Using the Gray tubing cut 3 lengths: TUBE A- 7/8”, TUBE B- 1-9/32”, TUBE C- 1 17/32”. Using the Black tubing cut 17 lengths at 1/4”. Painting: Paint the distributor shaft Silver with the distributor Silver and a Tan cap. Paint the oil lines Silver with a Steel Block. The oil manifold is Silver with Red connectors. I recommend attaching the oil lines in place prior to assembly as they are tight and you can damage the small parts easily. As with the oil lines attach the tubing to the distributor cap prior to assembly. Assembly: TUBE A attaches from the oil line union to the oil manifold on the side with a single connector. TUBE B inserts on the oil manifold bottom connector on the opposite side and TUBE C on the top connector. The Black tubing goes on the 9 pins on the distributor cap and in the 8 holes in the valve covers. Attach the oil caps and breathers to the valve covers. Attach the distributor to the distributor shaft and that attaches behind the top pulley. Attach the oil lines to the

block and the manifold to the oil line and the block. The loose oil tubing will attach to the filters in a later assembly. **NOTE** In order to facilitate some of the tubing assembly to the fittings I used a little trick to make sure things stay in place. I use a sewing pin to replace the plastic attachment pin. All I do is cut the area flush and with a candle I heat the sewing pin until it is glowing hot. I then insert the pin into the part where the attachment goes and I let it cool. The heat will fuse the pin in place and I cut it to size after it is cool. Remember to use tweezers or forceps to hold the pin as it is HOT! Then you can superglue the tubing easily in place as it slide right on the pin. You might find this helpful if the tubing doesn’t slip onto the attachment points throughout the build.

Pic 7 is a shot of the assembly completed at this point. You must set this aside for the glue to cure strong before moving any further.


Pic 8 shows the firing order for the motor. Using the YELLOW WIRE cut the following lengths: 1=2-1/4”, 2=7/8”, 3=2-1/5”, 4=1-1/8”, 5=2-7/8”, 6=1-3/8”, 7=3-1/8”, 8=1-3/4”, 9=1-3/8”. Cut a length of BLACK TUBE at 3/16”. Using Pic 8 wire the ignition by inserting the Yellow Wire into the Black tubes you installed last step on the distributor and valve covers. On the #1 wire install the Black Tube you cut and insert it on to the pin on the right front side of the block. ** THE WIRE NUMBERS ABOVE CORRESPOND TO THE WIRE DIAGRAM IN PIC 8. I noticed the real cars used Red wires also, if you wish to substitute colors from your parts box as I did.

Pic 9 is a finished photo of the motor to this point. A dab of Superglue on loose parts will steady up the whole assembly as needed.


Pic 10 is a shot of the motor blower parts needed to assemble the top of the motor. Use Gray Tubing and cut these lengths: TUBE A- 1-3/8”, TUBE B- 1-5/8”. Painting: Assemble the blower unit front, back, middle and pulley. Paint the unit Steel. Paint both of the fuel rails Silver with a Steel collector box. Paint the butterfly Red. Paint the fuel valve Silver with Blue connectors. Paint the throttle linkage Silver. Assembly: insert the butterfly into the bottom snorkel and do not glue. Attach the top of the snorkel. Attach the blower fuel lines to the bottom of the snorkel. Attach the snorkel to the blower unit. Attach the Gray Tube A to the top rear connector of the fuel valve and the Gray Tube B to the bottom rear connector. Attach the fuel valve to the blower and snorkel. Attach the loose end of Tube A to the blower fuel line box. Attach the throttle linkage to the snorkel and

fuel valve. Add decal #29 to each side of the blower. On the motor attach the main fuel line to the intake. Attach the blower unit to the intake with superglue. Attach the Tube B to the main fuel line box.

Pic 11 is a completed shot of the blower unit. NOTE: For a contest entry you would want to de-chrome the snorkel unit and repair the parting line around the unit and re-chrome it. Decal 31 goes on both sides of the snorkel. **NOTE** The instructions show a Decal 33 that should go on the butterflies in the snorkel. I did not find a decal 33 on this sheet of decals. Reference Pic 3 and you will not find a decal 33.


Pic 12 are the final assembly parts for the motor. Use the Black Tube and cut 2 lengths at 1”. Use the Gray Tube and cut 2 lengths: TUBE B= 1-11/16”, TUBE C= 1-7/8”. Painting: Paint the belt retainer Steel. Paint the headers Flat Black. Decal 5 goes on the belt. Assembly: Stretch the belt over the lower pulley and blower pulley going around the middle pulley. Attach the belt retainer to the blower. Attach TUBE B to the lower connector on the water valve and to the lower connector on the fuel valve. Connect TUBE C to the upper fuel valve connector and upper water valve connector. Attach the bell housing to the motor rear. Attach the headers to the heads and the Black TUBES to the pin on the header and the coolant caps on both sides.

Pic 13 is the Left side of the motor. Pic 14 (right) is a shot of the Right side of the motor. This completes the major assembly of the motor. Set this aside for now.


Pic 15 (left) are the frame assembly pieces. You will be best to assemble the frame and paint it as a completed unit. To paint it and assemble later will cause damage to the paint. Pick a side rail and attach the head cage in place. Do not glue the uppermost mount yet. Attach the front and rear cross members to the frame. With the opposite side rail do all the attachment points and glue the frame together making sure it is straight. Attach the frame front in place. Attach the seat brace into place.

Pic 16 the head cage area needs to be adjusted and “made to fit”. There was a little warping in the top rails that would not let them meet in the proper place. I taped around the unit and used superglue to glue the attachment points. Now glue the top head cage rails to the top bar.


Pic 17 is the frame completed frame and ready to paint. Go over the attachment points and smooth out and rough spots or over-glue. The frame rails also have heavy parting lines that should be removed for a contest build prior to assembly. Paint the frame unit Metallic Blue. Paint the seat shell outside Aluminum and the inside Black. Apply decals 25, 26 and 27 to the seat.

Pic 18 is the assembled frame to this point. The seat tub sits in the frame and is not glued in. After painting you can slide it in from the front carefully and it will just sit in place. Attach the chrome pedal to the left frame rail and the fuel shut-off to the left frame rail. Pic 19 shows the rear suspension parts and fuel tank parts that need assembled. Cut a length of Black Tube to 4-3/4”. Painting: Paint the fuel cell top and bottom Flat Black. Paint the oil filters Orange. Paint the wheels on the wheelie bars Black. Assembly: Assemble the rear differential front and back halves and attach to the frame. Attach the wheelie bars to the frame. Insert the Tube form the inside of the fuel cell in the holes on the top and pull all the way to equal lengths. Attach the fuel cell bottom to the top and attach that unit to the frame. Attach the fuel cap to the fuel cell. Attach both oil filters to the filter mount and attach that to the frame.


Pic 20 is a close up of the rear differential in place.

Pic 21 is a shot of the fuel cell and oil filters in place.


Pic 22 Are the parts needed to mount the motor into the frame. Painting: Paint the Safety Blanket Flat Black. Paint the Clutch pedal Steel. Assembly: Assemble the drive shaft. Assemble the safety blanket. Attach the driveshaft to the safety blanket and attach the shift linkage to that. Attach the clutch pedal to the bell housing. Insert the finished driveshaft unit into the frame attaching it to the differential and install the motor in place connecting the safety blanket to the bell housing. Attach the loose Gray tubes from the motor to the top of the oil filter mount.

PIC 23 Note for Contest builders or for a more finished looking build you need to strip and repair the driveshaft sprue attachments and parting lines. While it will not greatly show in a finished shelf build it will make a huge difference in a competition build.

Pic 24 shows the motor in place and the plumbing completed to this point. At this point go through the chassis and check all the connections. I had to superglue a few items to strengthen the bond due to the pressure of the tubing as it is not a flexible as it could be.


Pic 25 is a shot of the front suspension parts that needs assembly. NOTE OF CAUTION: There is no EASY way to assemble this suspension. Take your time and be patient. I used Superglue for this assembly as it is difficult and needs strength to hold together. I did this in steps and will describe it as I built it. Start with the axle and attach the spindles and spindle retainers in place. I clamped this assembly with clothespins and let the superglue set well. Attach the tie-rod mounts with superglue. Insert the tie-rod and superglue the retainer to the tie-rod pin. I then set that aside to cure strong. Superglue the axle mounts to the frame. Insert the radius rods into the frame. I used Testors Cement for this as I wanted to be able to adjust them and wanted the extra set up time. Set the axle unit in place and attach the radius rods to the axle and superglue the retainer onto the pin. Superglue the axle to the axle mounts.

Pic 26 shows the completed front end. This is not the strongest of assemblies so a dab of Superglue here and there at connection points after assembly will sure it up.


Pic 27 shows the steering components that are assembled next. Again this is another touchy assembly. Patience and Superglue are your friends! Painting: Paint both throttle linkage parts Steel. I did this in two assemblies. The steering linkage is assembled first. Attach the two linkage bars and superglue the retainer onto the pin. Attach the pitman arm to the linkage and superglue the retainer. Attach the linkage to the spindle and superglue the retainer on. Run the assembly under the header and against the frame attaching the U-Bolt to the frame over the linkage. Insert the steering gear shaft and let that sit while you assemble the steering assembly. Attach the gear box side to

the steering column and then attach the steering wheel. Attach that unit to the support bar and insert the support bar into the frame and mount it in place. Attach the steering gear shaft in place now. Run the linkage from the blower through the lower fuel rails and attach it to the inside pin on the support bar. Attach the pedal linkage to the outside pin and to the pedal.

Pic 28 is the steering linkage in place.

Pic 29 is the steering assembly in place. Again to sure up any loose items use a dab of superglue as needed.


PIC 30 PIC 31 DECISION TIME! As this is a “Phantom Paint Job” either way could be correct. The American racing style rims Leong ran had BOTH all Chrome fronts or the Chrome and Gunmetal design. On the backs he ran Gold or Chrome. So paint your rims as you feel fit. Pic 30 (left) is the rims and Pic 31 are the tires. NOTE: There is a nice set of Centerline rims included on the Chrome Tree. Unfortunately they are too small for the tires and are of no use in this build. The tires need to be roughed up to give them a used and more realistic look. Use 220 grit sandpaper and roll the tire while pressing it on the sandpaper. When done insert the front rims into the front tires and the rear rims into the rear tires. These tires are non-directional so it is not important which way they are installed.

Pic 32 are the front tires and Pic 33 (right) are the rear tires. The front rims were painted with a Gunmetal spoke. The rear rims were put in Bleach to strip the chrome and painted Gold. Slide the rims into the tires and line up the bead with the edge.

Pic 34 These are the front axle covers. Insert the spindle into the front tire hub and attach the axle cover to the spindle.


Pic 35 is the installed tire. Do both sides.

Pic 36 shows the completed front suspension unit.

Pic 37 shows the parts for the rear suspension. Cut Black Tube to these lengths: TUBE A= 1-3/8”, TUBE B= 3/4”, TUBE C= 4-3/8”. Painting: paint the brake hubs Steel. Paint the brake line T connector Aluminum. Paint the Brake units Steel with Gold brakes. Paint the calipers Gold. Do Not paint the axle. Assembly: attach Tube A to one side of the T, Tube B to the other side of the T and Tube C to the end of the T. Attach the axle to one hub and insert that into the brake unit. Attach the caliper to that sandwiching the hub in between. Slide that assembly into the differential on the frame attaching the brake unit to the differential. Attach the other brake unit to the differential. Slide the remaining hub on to the axle. Attach the caliper onto the brake sandwiching the hub as on the other side. Attach Tube A to the right brake and Tube B to the left brake. Tube C runs along the frame to the front and is left loose for now.


PIC 38 Shows the assembly of the brakes onto the differential.

PIC 39 At this point install the rear tires onto the hubs to finish the assembly.


Pic 40 is the underside as of this point. The frame is mostly complete aside from panels.

Pic 41 is the rolling chassis. Aside from final fuel line attachments and panels it is complete.

Pic 42 is a scan of the instruction sheet to show where the fuel lines are to be attached. The lines that come from the fuel tank go to the fuel valve. Cut a length of Black Tube: at 4” Although the instructions show it at 3-1/8” that is too short. Cut a length of Gray Tube at 1-3/8”. The length of Black tube runs from the fuel valve to the fuel cut off lever. Snake the tube under the header and through the hole in the engine plate. The Gray tube goes from the fuel valve to the bottom pin on the fuel cell.


Pic 43 is a finished shot of the fuel valve section.

Pic 44 (left) shows the panels and final chassis assembly parts. Pic 45 (right) Note on the skid plate panel there are trademark imprints. You need to remove these before finishing the part. I used a razor blade and shaved it off then sanded it smooth. Painting: Paint the fire extinguisher parts Red. Paint the master cylinder parts Gold. Paint all the remaining panels Flat Black.


Pic 46 These are the assembled parts. Assembly: Attach the skid plate from the bottom. Assemble the master cylinder halves and top. On the right panel install the brake handle and master cylinder and install the panel. The Black Tube goes on to the pin on the master cylinder. Install the left panel and rear panel. Attach the fire extinguisher halves on to the steering column. NOTE: The seat will sit on top of the panels once installed. Set the chassis aside. It is completed. The remaining part of the assembly is the body. This will be completed in steps but may not follow the instructions. I will explain all the work and do the painting first. Final assembly will be done with the finished parts.

Pic 47 (left) are the interior panels for the body. These need to be painted Aluminum. In Pic 48 there is a Trademark that needs removed from the rear panel prior to finishing. Shave it off with a razor blade and sand it flat. Also remove all release pin marks on the parts.


Pic 49 and Pic 50 show mold lines on the body. Remove the lines from both sides and sand the body smooth. Once done; you will be ready to Primer the body.

Inside the body is a Trademark in the front hood area, shave this off and smooth it prior to finishing (See Pic 51-left). In Pic 52 there are release pin marks throughout the body inside, these need removed also. PIC 53 Pic 53 shows the front and rear body panels, these will be painted body color and Bare Metal Foiled. The body props and chute need to be painted Flat Black. More information on the body panels later.


Pic 54 is the instruction sheet showing part 117 as being two shafts for the body support. I searched my parts trees and could not find these parts or any markings for them. I will make my own and explain it in a further step. Also as a side note these parts would have gone through the front grille and into the inner panel creating handles on the outside of the grille for lifting the body. The real cars did not have these so omitting them is correct in the building of a more accurate look.

PIC 55 Once all the body parts are sanded and blemishes removed Prime all of the parts with a good Primer. Water sand the parts with 800 grit sandpaper and Prime every part inside and out. Once the Primer has cured check all the parts for remaining blemishes and water sand again to 1000 grit. This will prepare the parts for final painting. See Pic 55 for the body in Primer.

Pic 56 shows the inner body panels painted in Aluminum and ready for final installation. Usually I do not paint on the sprue but as the connection points will be hidden when assembled here it is no issue.


PIC 57 As I wanted the interior of the body Aluminum in color I painted that with the inner panels and let it cure. I taped off the inside of the body after the final sanding of the exterior and painted the main color on the body and body panels. This shows the body after the coats of color has been shot.

PIC 58 Painting Metallic paint with an airbrush can cause a buildup of the flake in the nozzle. That buildup of paint can “SPIT” out on to your paint job and can ruin the paint. I usually will let that area set and if it is on an upper final coat go back after the paint has cured and water sand the blemish out with 1500 grit sandpaper. As there are a lot of decals that cover the body any blemishes will be hidden by the decals, it is important that the finished body be SMOOTH for the decals to lie properly though. The whole body was sanded to 1500 grit; make sure you do not break through the paint just smooth the top layers.


PIC 59 Body Decaling and Finishing: After you have your base coat on the car you are ready to decal it. Remember decals lay better on a gloss (SMOOTH) surface and will not adhere properly on a flat (BUMPY) surface. If you decal a flat surface you get what is called SILVERING of the decals, or the look that they are not adhered, as air is trapped under the decal. Clean your work area good so no dust or grunge from building and sanding gets under your decals. Pick the decals you want to work with and plan out how the best way to lay them out without handling previously laid decals will be. I try either a Front to Back or Top to Bottom approach doing one side at a time then the front and rear of the car in steps giving the decals time to set and dry in place before handling it again. Once you have a plan of action cut your first decal as close to the edge of the outermost color as possible. Once trimmed place the decal into warm water and let it get soft until it “Floats” loosely on the carrier paper. Put a little water on the spot of the car you want to transfer the decal on to and carefully float the decal off the carrier paper onto the car. Using tweezers and a Q-tip position the decal in to place where it will be located when finished. Now with a small part of paper towel carefully extract the water from the area by lightly dabbing around the decal and then on top of the decal. Using a moist paper towel and or moist Q-tip you can smooth out and air bubbles and wrinkles from the center of the decal out to the edges. Now continue this process until all the decals for that area are done, wait for them to set and continue the rest of the car. See Pic 59 for a demonstration of how to slide a decal off of the carrier paper.

PIC 60 PIC 61 *** Bare Metal Foil Application is a little on the tricky side if not done slowly. Here is a method I use: It is VERY IMPORTANT that you use a BRAND NEW #11 blade in your hobby knife, and keep a few extras handy as all you are using is the very end of the tip point. From the foil sheet cut a strip twice the width and about ¼ inch longer than the detail you intend to cover using a sharp set of regular scissors. I then peel the foil off of the backer sheet and lightly lay it on the detail area. Using my finger I will slowly slide along the detail area smoothing the foil lightly, then a second time more firmly to press it into place. Using a Q-Tip I burnish the foil onto the detail area only. I then use a toothpick that has been tapped on the table to dull the tip and run that along the outside edge of the details that I intend to cut the foil around. After the detail area is defined and the foil is smooth and burnished in I slowly cut around the edge with the hobby knife. If you feel the knife snag or grab the foil CHANGE THE BLADE, it will rip your foil very easily. Now you can strip all the excess foil away. You can peel the excess loose leaving just your detailed part covered. I then burnish it again with a Q-Tip. You can do foil work in sections as it is thin enough that when burnished it will mold itself into looking like one piece. Most people Bare Metal Foil AFTER clear coating the car, I prefer to clear coat over the foil so it will never move as my cars tend to get handled.


PIC 62 Prior to Clear Coat I installed the front and rear body panels. All Bare Metal Foil and Decals are completed. This is the last step for final paint. Pic 62 shows the panels installed.

Referencing back to Pic 56 use the inner panels and install the cockpit shroud and hinge panel in place. See Pic 63 (left) for the installed units. Also at this time install both shroud braces as seen in Pic 64.

PIC 65 As stated earlier, parts 117 (right) were missing. So this was my “work-around”. Using 18 gauge craft wire and a scrap of plastic I found in my parts box I will create a front brace for the support bars. Cut 2 lengths of the wire to 3”. Measure out the distance between the holes in the front panel. Drill 2 small holes in the scrap at 1-18” apart, or the distance you measured.


PIC 66 Here you can see that I painted the scrap plastic Steel color. Insert the wires into the holes you drilled and bend them 90 degrees to create a tab to hold them in place.

PIC 67 Install the unit you just made onto the inside of the grille and line up the holes in the grille to the wires you used on the scrap, Superglue this in place.

PIC 68 Install the front inner panel (as normal) inserting the wires into the holes as you install it. There should be an excess length of wire sticking through the holes.

PIC 69 Once the whole assembly dries bend the wires 90 degrees and cut off the excess just leaving enough to hold them in place.


In Pic 70 (left) you see the glass that installs into the body. Run a line of Elmer’s White Glue around the outside window mount and lay the windows in place. Pic 71 (right) shows the windows installed. As the Elmer’s Glue dries it will be clear hiding the attachment of the windows.

Pic 72 (left) are the chute assembly pieces. Cut a length of Black Tube 1-1/2”. Assemble the chute back to the chute front and attach that assembly to the rear bumper. Insert one end of the Tube into the chute and the other end into the hole in the lower rear fascia, see Pic 73. For final assembly slide the pins in the hinge panel into the rear frame mounts.


Pic 74 shows the finished rear end shot.

Pic 75 and Pic 76 show the front end finished shot in both OPEN and CLOSED position.


Pic 77 is the unused parts of this kit. All you have left over are the Centerline rims. Some research of the tires in this release explains Revell had to use a new tire manufacturer and that is the reason for the non-fitting old set of rims. The ones used in the kit were produced specifically to fit the new tires.

Overall Impressions; WOW! This kit is AWESOME. For the age of the moldings there were no significant flash or serious blemish issues. The few mold lines on the body were fixed easily. The motor is painstaking to build. One major issue I found is the tubing they supply is too small for the pins on the parts. It is very difficult to assemble the tubing after the part is installed. I found on places I could do it cutting the pin and replacing it with a cut sewing pin installed in place of the pins on the parts. The tubes and ignition wires are too stiff to mold into shape and do tend to cause a little stress. This is not for the faint at heart or a novice builder. The frame on the other hand was a breeze and fell together without many issues. There were a few warped parts that needed a little extra attention but nothing worth worry. The front suspension is another shaky spot where an experienced builder is needed. As it is all chrome and just sort of hangs on the front it takes time to assemble right. The body was easy to work with and mine was straight. Many times on larger kits the bodies warp and need attention. This one was good to go! I really was amazed by the decals. Usually on larger kits you must use Micro-Set and Micro-Sol. I was adventurous and tried it raw. The big sheets lay out as smooth as could be with no prodding. Fit on the body to the frame is good and looks right when done. The actual attachment is a bit loose as it is just held on by 2 pins and sets on the frame. Overall the finished build is impressive. I do not usually build larger scale cars and this was my first one in quite a few years. I enjoyed it a lot. I am glad Revell re-released this and think it is a good kit for the smaller scale builders to jump into and try their hand at a larger scale kit. On a scale of 1 to 10 I do have to give this one an 8½. I had missing parts with no locations on any sprue and decal call outs for missing decals. The wiring and tubing used is tough to work with. But these are not the end of the world. Revell is at least giving us some cool kits to build!

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Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review 20140519