MINIMALISM AS A CONCEPT FOR TEXTILE FINISHING AND …

[email protected] www.tjprc.org

MINIMALISM AS A CONCEPT FOR TEXTILE FINISHING AND F ASHION DESIGN

MAHA M. T. ELADWI 1 & REHAB M. KOTB 2 1Assistant Professor, Department of Textile & Clothing, Faculty of Women for Arts, Science, and Education,

Ain Shams University, Cairo, Egypt 2Lecturer, Department of Textile & Clothing, Faculty of Women for Arts, Science, and Education, Ain Shams

University, Cairo, Egypt

ABSTRACT

In textile and fashion industry, novel approaches is demanded to create an interactive relation between them. One

of these approaches is applying environmental friendly finishing as well as using this concept in fashion design which a

type of bio-mimic or environmental simulation. Minimalism concept has been a growing trend in different fields such as

design, art, and fashion, which expresses consumer’s needs for effortless functionality that can be compatible with a

complex modern lifestyle by using limited materials to create a desired effect. In present research woven and knitted

cotton fabrics were biofinished using cellulase enzyme followed by stain release treatment. Further, the effect of

biofinishing treatment on some physico-mechanical properties of used cotton fabrics; which have a direct affect on

UV-blocking ability; namely fabric width, weight, stiffness, and thickness were evaluated and showed significant

enhancement. Additionally, UPF of grey and biofinished fabrics were calculated and showed improvement of their values

after enzymatic treatment. Finishing using polysiloxane derivative was achieved and to enhance stain release properties,

and showed enhancement in their grade values. As well as, the finished cotton fabrics were applied for producing

fashionable designs that inspired from minimalism features, which introduced multiple visual and benefit functional

properties.

KEYWORDS: Textile Finishing, Biofinishing, UV Protection, Soil Release, Fashion Design, Minimalism

INTRODUCTION

Nowadays, the necessity of functional finishes has been increasing rapidly in textile market because of competition,

achieving added values and increasing market share. The consumer’s demands and desires are not only defined by

aesthetic properties, but also by its functional ones, which could be achieved by applying novel ideas in textile finishing

and apparel production.

Enzymes are proteins that consist of long chains of amino acid, held together by peptide bonds. They are present in

all living cells and have found wide applications in different fields such as textile industry which applied for improving

production methods and fabric finishing due to their positive environmental and commercial impact (Shah 2013).

The advantages of enzymes applications for cellulosic fabrics finishing are listed as follows; cleaner fabric surface with

less fuzz, process simplification, reduced tendency to pill formation, cost reduction, environmentally friendly process, and

improved handling properties of fabrics (Chinta et al, 2012; Shah 2013). Cellulase enzymes are nontoxic and

environmental friendly biocatalysts that are primarily used to biopolishing process. Biopolishing also called biofinishing is

applied to the fabrics to remove the pills and fuzz from fabric surface, in order to improve the smoothness, drape,

International Journal of Textile and Fashion Technology (IJTFT) ISSN(P): 2250-2378; ISSN(E): 2319-4510 Vol. 5, Issue 4, Aug 2015, 1-14 © TJPRC Pvt. Ltd.

2 Maha M.T. Eladwi & Rehab M. Kotb

Impact Factor (JCC): 3.3497 Index Copernicus Value (ICV): 3.0

flexibility and appearance properties especially for knitwear (Jabasingh & Nachiyar 2012). Unlike conventional softeners,

which tend to be washed out and often result in a greasy feel, the softness-enhancing effects of biofinishing are wash-proof

and non-greasy. Biopolishing using cellulase enzyme treatment give a partial hydrolysis of cotton; so the short fiber ends

are hydrolyzed, leaving the surface of the fibers free and providing a more even look. But it should be considered that there

is also a loss of strength related to the amount of weight reduction (Chinta et al, 2012; Shah 2013). The recommendation of

textiles as a means of sun protection has previously been underrated, even though suitable clothing offers simple and

effective protection against the sun (Das, 2010). Prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) can result in skin

damage such as sunburn, premature skin aging, allergies, and even skin cancer. The deleterious impacts caused by

over-exposure to UVR have increased the public awareness of the need to adopt personal UV protective strategies

(De et al, 2005; Kotb et al, 2014). Many textile manufacturers try to enhance the UV protective performance of garments

using a chemical approach with the use of dyes, whitening agents and UV absorbers such. Nevertheless, the

photodegradation of fabric dyes, optical brightening agents and the potential hazard of these chemicals to the human body

lacks investigation (Wong et al, 2012). Many researchers have studied various fabric parameters that influence UVR

transmission, such as fiber composition, fabric construction, yarn twist, thickness, weight, wetness or moisture content,

stretch or extensibility, chemical treatment or additives and coloration. Since, UV-resist property can be incorporated by

changing the structure of the constituent fibers, varying the weaving pattern, changing the shades in dyeing, or applying a

suitable finishing agent or UV absorbers on the fabric (De et al, 2005; Das, 2010). The UV protective ability of fabric

depends on the amount of UVR reflected or absorbed by fibrous materials, transmitted through pores between fiber and

yarn, and also scattered within the fabric layer. Clothing can only provide limited protection against UVR, in particular for

knitwear with a more porous and stretchable structure than the woven garments. Fabric construction is one of the important

factors affecting these paths for UVR. The arrangement of yarns and fibers determined by fabric construction can influence

the compactness of the structure, together with the open space within the fabric. Knitted fabrics are easily deformed or

stretched during wearing due to their elastic characteristics. The fabric layer will become thinner when it is worn next to

skin and more spaces that are open will be created for transmitting UVR in the actual end-use. It can be anticipated that the

UV protection provided by the chemical approach may not always be effective because of the actual wearing condition of

garments. Fabric construction is deemed to present the simplest and cheapest solution to achieve good UV protection

without additional finishing processes and has been proposed as one of the most important variables affecting UVR

transmission, especially when light pastel colored fabrics were used as UV protective clothing (Wong et al, 2012).

UV-protecting property can be expressed by ultraviolet protection factor (UPF), which indicates a fabric’s sun screening

capacity (De et al, 2005).

During the last several years, specialty organo-modified silicones have been used in stain release and stain

repellency textile finishing. These organo-modified silicone polymers may also contain additional reactive organic groups,

such as amines, amides and epoxides, which normally contribute to the softness and/or durability. These materials are

generally silicone copolymers that have hydrophilic groups, such as polyalkylene oxide polymers, are arranged in different

ways onto the main siloxane backbone (Vazquez, 2004). Silicone is a generic term that refers to a class of manmade

polymers based on a framework of alternating silicon and oxygen (siloxane bonds) with organic substituent attached to the

silicon, the vast majority of which are polydimethylsiloxanes. Because of their Inorganic – Organic structure and the

flexibility of the silicone bonds, silicones have some unique properties including thermal oxidative stability and

Minimalism as a Concept for Textile Finishing and Fashion Design 3


hydrophobicity properties. Most recently, modified versions of the above as well as new silicone chemistries are being

introduced which offer improved softness coupled with the benefit of influencing the stain repellency and/or stain release

properties. Additionally; they can improve the cost of textile operations and ensure a minimum environmental impact

(Vazquez, 2004).

In the textile industry, designers use other garments, photographs of garments, art objects and natural phenomena as

inspiration for their designs. It is generally recognized that these sources of inspiration help designers to create features of

individual designs, such as shape details in tailoring or pattern motifs in knitwear. Minimalism is a concept a loose

synonym of simplicity, where the simplest and fewest elements are used to create the maximum effect as well as the

subject is reduced to its necessary elements. It is one of the most significant movements of the 20th century and early 21st

century that penetrated numerous fields, where. Since, it creates an impression of extreme simplicity by enlisting every

element and detail to serve multiple visual and functional purposes through using natural textures, neutral colors, clean and

fine finishes. The functional minimalism fashion design is using relatively simple structural and decorative aspects to

highlight the functional one, creating an elegant design. The characteristics of the minimal design is achieved by using;

ornamentations are quality rather than quantity, structural lines for decoration, basic geometric shapes as outlines, a single

shape or a small number of similar shapes for components for design unity, natural and non-fussy bright color

combinations, natural patterns and accessories. Additionally, the economic and functional value (VanEenoo, 2011; Park

and Yim, 2013).

From a minimal point of view, this work is motivated by the concept of minimalism for textile finishing and

apparel design; using a reduction as a positive technique, by using biopolishing treatment of woven and knitted cotton

fabrics which imparted functional, i.e. soft handle, UV protective and soil release properties without dyeing. As well as

producing pleasing and simple apparel designs that applied and carried out by draping on the dress form.

EXPERMENTAL

Fabrics Material

Two types of desized 100% woven[ twill 2/1 (232 g/m2)] and knitted [Melton (329 g/m2, Rip (261 g/m2)] cotton

fabrics were purchased from SHATEX, Egypt.

Chemicals

Cellulose® enzyme under the commercial name of Cellumax® AP (preuffred acidic powder), hydrogen peroxide

35% were kindly supplied by “International Industrial Company”, Cairo, Egypt, DUREX HS-300N (a modified

polysiloxane) was supplied by TEXCHEM Egypt CO., Ltd.,. Other chemicals used were laboratory grade reagents.

Methods

All fabrics were simultaneously pre-scoured/bleached post-biofinished in an industrial scale using liquor to fabric

ratio of 1:10.

Scouring and Bleaching

Simultaneous scouring and bleaching was carried out using NaOH 5 g/l, H2O2 12 ml/l, at 80 °C for 60 minutes

followed by rinsing.

4

Impact Factor (JCC): 3.3497

Biofinishing

Biofinishing was conducted at 55 °C for 30

acetic acid), then the temperature raised to 80 °C for 5 minutes, followed by tumble dry.

Stain Release Treatment

Biofinished fabric samples were padded

DUREX HS-300N [polysiloxane derivatives]

seconds and 130°C for 2.5 minutes respectively.

MEASUREMENTS

Physico-Mechanical Properties

The effect of biopolishing treatment on some physico

direct affect on UV-blocking ability; namely

and fabric thickness (ASTM D 1777-96

Ultraviolet Protection Evaluation

The transmittance % was measured for blank and biopolished fabric

according to the Australian/Newzeland Standard (AS/NZS

3101-PC-Spectrophotometer, using the following equation.

Where, Eλ is the relative erythemal spectral effectiveness, S

spectral transmittance of the fabric (measured),

Stain Release Test

Stain release performance was assessed using AATCC method 130

treated) were stained with a vegetable oil

stain

RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS

Physico-Mechanical Properties

The effect of biofinishing treatment with cellulase enzyme of 100% woven (twill), and knitted (Melton and Rip)

on fabric width, weight, thickness, fabric stiffness, as

Generally, it was observed that there is an interaction between fabrics struct

studied physico-mechanical properties of the

and stretch ability in knitted fabrics structure than in woven fabrics, such factors are responsible for the differences in

changing before and after biofinishing treatment.

Effect of Biofinishing Treatment on Fabric W

It is obvious from Figure (1), that there is a significant decr

Maha M.T. Eladwi

Index Copernicus Value (ICV): 3.0

Biofinishing was conducted at 55 °C for 30 minutes using 1% (o.w.f) cellulose enzyme

acetic acid), then the temperature raised to 80 °C for 5 minutes, followed by tumble dry.

ed fabric samples were padded two dip and nip for 20 min at weight pick up 80 % in a bath containing

lysiloxane derivatives] (30 g/l) adjusted to pH 5. Subsequently drying and curing

utes respectively.

The effect of biopolishing treatment on some physico-mechanical properties of used cotton fabrics; which have a

namely fabric width and weight, fabric stiffness (Shirley Stiffness Tester)

96) were evaluated.

mittance % was measured for blank and biopolished fabric samples

according to the Australian/Newzeland Standard (AS/NZS – 4366-1996) using UV

Spectrophotometer, using the following equation.

is the relative erythemal spectral effectiveness, Sλ is solar spectral irradiance in W/cm

spectral transmittance of the fabric (measured), λ is the wavelength in nm and ∆λ is the bandwidth in nm.

Stain release performance was assessed using AATCC method 130-2000. All fabrics (blank, biopolished, and

with a vegetable oil and rated after one home laundering (AATCC 124/2009

ishing treatment with cellulase enzyme of 100% woven (twill), and knitted (Melton and Rip)

fabric stiffness, as well as the blank ones was evaluated as shown in F

Generally, it was observed that there is an interaction between fabrics structure and biopolishing

nical properties of the above-mentioned fabrics. There is a fact that there are more spaces, holes,


and after biofinishing treatment.

n Fabric Width

from Figure (1), that there is a significant decrease in fabric width after biofinishing

Maha M.T. Eladwi & Rehab M. Kotb

ndex Copernicus Value (ICV): 3.0

cellulose enzyme at pH 4.5-5.5 (adjusted by

weight pick up 80 % in a bath containing

. Subsequently drying and curing at 100°C for 30

perties of used cotton fabrics; which have a

, fabric stiffness (Shirley Stiffness Tester) (HU, 2008),

and the UPF was calculated

1996) using UV-Shimadzu

is solar spectral irradiance in W/cm2/nm, Τλ is the

bandwidth in nm.

2000. All fabrics (blank, biopolished, and

(AATCC 124/2009). On the other hand,

ishing treatment with cellulase enzyme of 100% woven (twill), and knitted (Melton and Rip)

as evaluated as shown in Figures (1-4).

ure and biopolishing treatment that affected the

t there are more spaces, holes,


ease in fabric width after biofinishing of cotton fabrics



with cellulase enzyme for all of the investigated fabrics (woven and knitted). The contraction in biofinishing fabric width

caused the fabric construction to be tightened, decreasing the fabric opening and holes. This shrinkage may be attributed to

yarns swelling with subsequent increase in fiber crimp (Chinta et al, 2012; Shah 2013)

Figure 1: Effect of Biofinishing Treatment on Fabric Width

Effect of Biofinishing Treatment on Fabric Weight

The data in the Figure (2) clearly showed that there is significant decrease in weight values for biofinished treated

samples than the blank fabric samples regardless the fabric type. This weight loss may be attributed to the assumption that

application of cellulase enzyme on cotton fabrics caused removing of hairy particles. Consequently, results in weight loss

where long chain cellulose is converted into short ones. It has been reported that up to 2% weight loss showed the removal

of surface fibrils, fragments of seed coat and many other contaminations of the fabric, which gives a smoother, brighter and

glossier look (Chinta et al, 2012; Noreen et al, 2014).

Figure 2: Effect of Biofinishing Treatment on Fabric Weight

Effect of Biofinishing Treatment on Fabric Thickness

The effect of biofinishing treatment on fabrics thickness is represented in Figure (3); the obtained results showed that

there is a significant increase in thickness values in comparison to the blank fabrics. The reason for these results is the high

amount of mechanical forces and the long process period, which caused fibers swelling and closing the gaps between them.



Hence, along came with removal of the fuzzes from the yarn surface (Chinta et al, 2012; Noreen et al, 2014).

Figure 3: Effect of Biofinishing Treatment on Fabric Thickness

Effect of Biofinishing Treatment on Fabric Stiffness

From the Figure (4), it is clear that although the decrease in fabric stiffness is higher for woven fabric than for

knitted fabrics, there is significant enhancement in fabrics stiffness after biofinishing treatment regardless the fabric type

than the unfinished fabrics. These results may be attributed to biofinishing treatment with cellulase enzyme give a partial

hydrolysis of cotton, so the shorter fiber ends; especially in case of woven fabric because they have more protruded fibers

than knitted ones; are hydrolyzed. Subsequently removing the pills and fuzz from the fibers surface and loosing the fibers

ends. The improvement in fabrics softness, smoothness, drape, and flexibility are absolute safe, permanent, do not hamper

the water permeability and providing a more even look compared to chemical treatments (Chinta et al, 2012; Shah 2013).

Figure 4: Effect of Biofinishing Treatment on Fabric Stiffness

Ultraviolet Protection Properties

There is a strong relationship between UV transmission and fabric parameters and construction, especially, fabric

weave or knit, weight, stretch, opacity, and thickness. The UPF values of blank and biofinishing were calculated according

to Australian/Newzeland Standard (AS/NZS – 4366-1996). Although the results showed that the UPF values of all fabric

samples either blank or biofinished ones; having excellent protection (50+); the biofinished fabric samples showed higher

enhancement in UPF values. There is an interaction between fabric structure, construction, and biofinishing treatment with



cellulase enzyme, since this type of treatment affected on some of fabric physical parameters as proved in previously

discussed results. But because of the stretching ability of raw fabric these excellent UPF values susceptible to change due

to the repeated wearing forces; especially in case of knitted fabric construction; which make sense and a need for further

finishing types for cotton fabrics which improve UPF values (Dubrovski, 2010). The investigated fabric parameters

showed that there is a contraction in fabric width, which led to closing the gaps between yarns and increase their

compactness, consequently permitting UVR to transmit through the fabric and enhancing their UPF values. As well as the

fabrics thickness were increased after biofinishing treatment, decreasing fabrics porosity, producing a closer weave

especially in case of knitted fabrics; preventing UVR transmission through the compact fabric surfaces. In most studies,

thickness measurements for the fabrics were not undertaken or reported. However, thickness is a useful variable for

understanding differences in UV protection between fabrics, i.e. the thicker, denser fabrics transmit less UV radiation and

concluded that thickness is most useful in explaining differences in UV transmission (Das, 2010; Wong et al, 2012). UV

light passes direct through the macrospores or fabric open area (direct UV transmittance) and through the yarns, where

changes the direction before leaving the fabric (scattered UV transmittance). Numerous studies focused on different fabric

constructional parameters that represent the fabric structure the best and have direct and significant effect on UV

protection. Such role has been given to fabric cover factor, fabric open porosity, fabric mass, fabric thickness etc

(Dubrovski, 2010).

Figure 5: Effect of Biofinishing Treatment on UPF Values

Stain Release Finishing

The stain release properties of gray, biofinished, as well as DUREX HS-300N [polysiloxane derivatives] treated

woven and knitted fabrics were evaluated according to AATCC 130-2000 test method. The results in Figure (6) showed

that all the gray fabric showed the poorest stain release values regardless the fabric construction. On the other hand, the

biofinishing treatment with cellulase enzyme enhanced stain release properties to some extent especially for the woven

fabric construction (twill), but still not adequate foe apparel applications if there are no post- dyeing of cotton fabrics.

These results may be attributed to action of enzymatic biofinishing treatment with cellulase helped to maintain a clean

surface appearance and look, which agreed with enhancement of the previously discussed fabric stiffness results. Cellulase

assisted in the removal of particular soils by removing microfibril from the cotton fibers that initially form the pill and

build up hardly removed stains (Shah, 2013), which also explained the poorest stain release values of gray fabrics. For the

DUREX HS-300N (polysiloxanes derivative) treated fabrics it is obviously showed from Figure (5) that this type of



finishing significantly improved the treated woven (twill) fabric to the best stain removal grade (5), and (4.5) for treated

knitted fabrics (Melton, Rip). These results may be attributed to the resinous polysiloxanes action, where three-dimensional

crosslinked polysiloxanes will react rapidly with water to form a linear polymer. As long as the aqueous pH is maintained

between pH 3-4, stable emulsions can be prepared. When these emulsions are applied to a fabric with a tin catalyst, the

Si-H group hydrolyzes to the silanol and condenses to a three-dimensional resinous polymer. Since the negative fiber

surface charges attract positively charged particles, making the fabric highly oily stain repellent. Utilizing appropriate

monomers and reactive groups, polysiloxanes, better known as silicones, are also found as three dimensional resins and

high molecular weight elastomers. Silicones are water clear oils that are stable to heat, light, and do not discolor fabric.

They produce a slick silky hand and are preferred for white goods, as well as they improve tear and abrasion resistance and

are excellent for improving sewing properties of fabrics (Vazquez, 2004).

Figure 6: Stain Release Test Results

Where Stain Release Grade 5 represents the best stain removal and Grade 1 the poorest stain removal according to

AATCC 130-2000 Method.

APPLICATION OF BIOFINISHED/STAIN RELEASE FABRICS IN MINIMALISM FASHION

DESIGNS

Minimalism in apparel design and production could be applied by extreme simplicity by enlisting every element

and detail to serve multiple visual and functional purposes through using: (VanEenoo, 2011; Park and Yim, 2013).

• Natural textures, neutral colors, clean and fine finishes,

• Ornamentations are quality rather than quantity,

• Structural lines for decoration,

• Basic geometric shapes as outlines,

• A single shape or a small number of similar shapes for components for design unity,

• Natural and non-fussy bright color combinations,

• Natural patterns and accessories, as well as the economic and functional value.

Minimalism as a Concept for Textile Finishing a

www.tjprc.org

PROPOSED DESIGNS AND APPLIED DESIGNS

Figure 7: Proposed Design (1)

The design structure

This model consists of one piece

(7); it depends on line and texture in fabric

diagonal which play an important role in moving

to side and also help to decrease the body width and

taller as well as increasing the activity and excitement

repetition of ruffles helped to achieve

increases the balance. These ruffles have different textures, be

they made from a different material (plain) from the dress (twill)

Minimalism features

This design depends on fabrics ruffles in the same color.

• Using different textures from

made decorative design by themselves.

• Geometric shapes with broken lines in all design reflect the

elements of minimalism features

geometric forms, and using raw materials color.

• Movement was emphasized in this design by lines

diversity, their oblique and also the diversity of it

inclination angle.

r Textile Finishing and Fashion Design

PROPOSED DESIGNS AND APPLIED DESIGNS

: Proposed Design (1)

This model consists of one piece - dress; as shown in figure

on line and texture in fabric. The main lines used are

diagonal which play an important role in moving the eye across side

to side and also help to decrease the body width and make the figure

vity and excitement. The

rhythm for model and

have different textures, because

(plain) from the dress (twill).

on fabrics ruffles in the same color.

different textures from twill and plain weave to

made decorative design by themselves.

hapes with broken lines in all design reflect the

of minimalism features, by precise, hard-edged,

raw materials color.

was emphasized in this design by lines

diversity, their oblique and also the diversity of its

Figure 8: Applied

Fabrics: Woven for dress

UPF: 50+ (131)

Stain Release Grade

9

[email protected]

Applied Design (1)

for dress and ruffles

Release Grade: 5/5

10


• This design is similar to minimalism in the diversity of

elegant lighting, and the void spaces.


The Design Structure

This design consists of two parts; as shown in figure (9);

the first is short cover-breast with halter armhole decorates by

geometric shapes, a second part is a crossover skir

lines in upper part making an excitement to the model, and at the

same time it helps to increase the attention. The repetition of them

helps to connect the two parts of model and make informal balance

for the entire design.

Minimalism Features

Achieving simplicity in the whole design, using abstract

elements, cold lighting from pleats shadow, and large space with

minimum objects.

• Use of plain material emphasize the minimalism art’s

Maha M.T. Eladwi


This design is similar to minimalism in the diversity of

elegant lighting, and the void spaces.



breast with halter armhole decorates by

geometric shapes, a second part is a crossover skirt. Using diagonal

lines in upper part making an excitement to the model, and at the

same time it helps to increase the attention. The repetition of them

helps to connect the two parts of model and make informal balance

Achieving simplicity in the whole design, using abstract

elements, cold lighting from pleats shadow, and large space with

Use of plain material emphasize the minimalism art’s

Figure 10: Applied Design (

Fabrics: Rip for blouse and skirt

UPF: 50+ (125)

Stain Release Grade



10: Applied Design (2)

Rip for blouse and skirt

: 4.5/5

Minimalism as a Concept for Textile Finishing a

www.tjprc.org

properties.

• Extreme simplicity and a deliberate lack of e

• Pure aestheticism through this use of only diagonal lines

around armhole and neck.


The design structure


a first part is halter blouse (butterfly style), and a second part is a

closed hem skirt. This design emphasizes body curves; it combines

dynamic and feminine features. Diagonal lines increased the

attention to the model, and connect the different shapes in the

design. Textures from face side and reverse side Melton fabric

added visual size to burst butterfly blouse, and added more texture

in the direction of the left and right skirt.

Minimalism Features

• Conscious of the space in this design achieved decoratively

by using texture from face (soft texture) and reverse fabric

(shaggy texture).

• Abstracted silhouette emphasis minimalism art.

r Textile Finishing and Fashion Design

Extreme simplicity and a deliberate lack of expressive content.

Pure aestheticism through this use of only diagonal lines

osed Design (3)


a first part is halter blouse (butterfly style), and a second part is a

closed hem skirt. This design emphasizes body curves; it combines

features. Diagonal lines increased the

attention to the model, and connect the different shapes in the

design. Textures from face side and reverse side Melton fabric

added visual size to burst butterfly blouse, and added more texture

e left and right skirt.

Conscious of the space in this design achieved decoratively

by using texture from face (soft texture) and reverse fabric

Abstracted silhouette emphasis minimalism art.


Fabrics: Melton for blouse and skirt

UPF: 50+ (234)

Stain Release Grade

11

[email protected]

Figure 12: Applied Design (3)

Melton for blouse and skirt

Release Grade: 4.5/5

12


• The model textures was carefully arranged to emphasize and

reveal an architectural look.

• Using lines in outside sewing, solid color, geometric forms

in a closed hem skirt and box like, also in divided model and

shaped canvas to achieve minimalism art’s properties.

• Decorative by fabric itself with twisting to make butterfly

blouse.


The Design Structure

The design created from minimalism art by wide gathering

and diagonal cutting on breast; as shown in figure (13). Playing by

texture in front side fabric (soft texture) and reverse side fabric

(shaggy texture). These gathering made pleats in left side which

gave free lines of fabrics through using pebbly texture fabric.

Making ribbon around the neck and belt in back sewing from side

to side provided ease of wearing. Drape in front dress formed and

warped fabric at shoulder to make gathering around neck, and the

jumpsuit skirt shape with edge finished like trousers. moreover, a

cotton T-shirt could be added to all designs in order to increase the

UV protective properties.

Maha M.T. Eladwi


arefully arranged to emphasize and

Using lines in outside sewing, solid color, geometric forms

in a closed hem skirt and box like, also in divided model and

shaped canvas to achieve minimalism art’s properties.

fabric itself with twisting to make butterfly

13: Proposed Design (4)

inimalism art by wide gathering

and diagonal cutting on breast; as shown in figure (13). Playing by

texture in front side fabric (soft texture) and reverse side fabric

(shaggy texture). These gathering made pleats in left side which

ics through using pebbly texture fabric.

Making ribbon around the neck and belt in back sewing from side

to side provided ease of wearing. Drape in front dress formed and

warped fabric at shoulder to make gathering around neck, and the

with edge finished like trousers. moreover, a

shirt could be added to all designs in order to increase the


Fabrics: Melton for jumpsuit and woven for

bra cut

UPF: 50+ (234) and (131) respectively

Stain Release Grade

respectively



4: Applied Design (4)

Melton for jumpsuit and woven for

50+ (234) and (131) respectively

Release Grade: 4.5/5, and 5/5



Minimalism Features

• Experience all the more strongly the pure qualities of

color, form, space and materials without ornamentation.

• Removing complexity of form, and elements of traditional

work in order to achieve the concept of pure aestheticism

by made button, buttonhole with fabric itself, and create

large tie by the same fabric.

• Color was not used in this design which inspired from

minimalism art to delineate space.

• Interested how the spectator perceives the relationship

between the different parts of the design and of the parts to

the whole thing by outside sewing in left side and finished

jumpsuit hem.

• The gathers repetition in all design often seen in

minimalism art here is designed to highlight the subtle

differences in this relationship.

CONCLUSIONS

It was found that enzymatic treatment affected on some Physico/mechanical properties of used woven (twill) and

knitted (Melton and Rip) fabrics with differences in changing values, which correspond to fabric construction. It was

found that biofinishing treatment with cellulase enzyme approach is used to remove hairy particles, protruded fiber ends,

which enhanced the fabric smoothness, UV-blocking, as well as stain release properties. The fabric shrinkage caused by

biofinishing treatment by cellulase enzyme led to decrease in UVR transmission through the fabrics, hence producing

significant improvement in the UPF of fabrics because of the open area reduction. It could be concluded that adding stain

release finishing treatment to the cotton fabrics significantly enhanced the soil release grade, hence the obtained finished

fabrics could be used in their gray color state i.e., no need for dyeing and their pollution. The finished cotton fabrics were

used for producing four fashionable designs inspired by minimalism movement features, which applied by draping on dress

form technique. These applied designs have atheistically and added value properties.

REFERENCES

1. Shah, S. R. (2013). Chemistry and Applications of Cellulase in Textile Wet Processing. Research Journal of

Engineering Sciences, 2, (7), 1-5.

2. Chinta, S. K., Landage, S. M., and Verma, K. (2012). Effect of Biofinishing Treatment on Various Spun Yarn

Knitted Fabrics. Global Journal Of Bio-Science & biotechnology, 1, (2), 287-295.

3. Jabasingh, S.A., and Nachiyar, C.V. (2012). Process Optimization for the Biopolishing of Jute Fibers with

Cellulases from Aspergillus Nidulans AJ SU04. International Journal of Bioscience, Biochemistry and

Bioinformatics, 2, (1), 12-16.



4. Das, B.R. (2010). UV Radiation Protective Clothing. The Open Textile Journal, 3, 14-21.

5. Kotb, R., Elsayed, N., and Salama, A. (2014). Promising modification of cotton fabric for multifunctional

applications. Journal of Chemical and Pharmaceutical Research, 6(11), 900-912.

6. De, P., Sankhe, M.D., Chaudhari, S.S., and Mathur, M.R. (2005). UV-resist, Water-repellent Breathable Fabric as

Protective Textiles. JOURNAL OF INDUSTRIAL TEXTILES, 34, (4), 209-222.

7. Wong, W., Lam, J.K., Kan, C., and Postle, R. (2012). Influence of knitted fabric construction on the ultraviolet

protection factor of greige and bleached cotton fabrics. Textile Research Journal, 83, (7), 683-699.

8. Vazquez, F. (2004). Silicone softeners for stain repellent and stain release fabric finishing. USA, Dow Corning

Corporation.

9. VanEenoo, C. (2011). Minimalism in Art and Design: Concept, influences, implications and perspectives. Journal

of Fine and Studio Art, 2(1), 7-12.

10. Park, S.J., and Yim, E.H. (2013). Comparison of the Functional Minimalism in Fashion and Architecture. Journal

of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 37, (3), 247-259.

11. HU, J. (2008). Fabric Testing. USA, Woodhead Publishing in Textiles.

12. Noreen, H., Zia, M.A., Ali, S., and Hussain, T. (2014). Optimization of bio-polishing of polyester/cotton blended

fabrics with cellulases prepared from Aspergillus niger. Indian Journal of Biotechnology, 13, (January), 108-113.

13. Dubrovski, P.D. (2010).Woven Fabrics and Ultraviolet Protection. USA, INTECH Publishing.

Documents

MINIMALISM AS A CONCEPT FOR TEXTILE FINISHING AND …