1. INTRODUCTION1.1 PROJECT BACKGROUND

In 1991, the government of NWFP created Sarhad Tourism Corporation (STC) as a public limited company to promote tourism in the province. This was done in recognition of the enormous potential for economic development through environmental tourism based on the diverse landscape, rich culture and pristine ecological resources of the province. Basically, whatever tourism development had taken place in Pakistan, was mostly through ad-hoc planning of the Tourism Corporations financed by the Government of Pakistan. No planned or integrated efforts were made to systematically and gradually develop the tourism industry in Pakistan. Neither the environment impact nor need or demand assessments were carried out before embarking upon development activities in this sector. Unfortunately, this unplanned, disorganized and ad-hoc approach resulted in wasting a lot of natural and financial resources. It has also destroyed the ecology and environment of the potential areas. The mushroom like development of infrastructure both by the private and public sectors without keeping the future in view marred the beauty of the areas with tourism potential. The resources were concentrated in a few areas, resulting in over-crowding certain places and totally ignoring other areas, which were left behind under-developed. The standard of tourists facilities and man made attractions were far below the national and international standards, which is limiting tourists traffic. Inadequate security measures in these areas further sailed the environment, No concerted and integrated efforts seem to exist to 1

publicize, promote and expose Pakistan's tourism potential to the outside world and that is why Pakistan is called "Asia's best kept secret". Due to the total dependence and heavy burden on the government's financial resources, the Tourism Corporations of Punjab and Sind have become parasites and a liability for their governments. Learning from the experiences of the other Tourism Corporations in Pakistan and the other sister organizations of Siri Lanka and Maldives etc. the Sarhad Tourism Corporation (STC) was established by the government of N.W.F.P with a clear mandate to play its role as a catalyst and help promote the tourism industry through the private sector. It is the government of NWFP's strategy to help the STC to stand on its own feet and become a self sustaining organization. STC was supposed to receive a one time grant from the government to begin its activities but would essentially be self-financing. It was decided by the G.0. NWFP that STC should have a Regional Master Plan to have a planned and systematic approach towards developing the tourism industry of Malakand. In that, it was decided that STC would hire a team of consultants to prepare a 5-10 years Regional Master Plan for the development of Tourism in Malakand. The Joint Venture of M/S Gulf Consulting Associates, 34-Abdara Road University Town, Peshawar and M/S Universal Development Associates, 3-Asif Plaza Defence Chowk, Lahore Cantt. were awarded this consultancy assignment in April 1996, and this Report has been prepared as a final product in this regard. 1.2 LOCATION

Malakand division marks the northern most boundary of Pakistan 2

(Fig.1). It is strategically located in close proximity to Afghanistan, China and Central Asian States of Tajikistan. Hazara Region makes its boundary on the eastern sides, whereas the districts of Mardan and Charsadda are located in the south. Some area of Bajaur Agency and the international boundary with Afghanistan makes its boundary on the western side. Malakand division is situated between 34 -17' to 36-52' N and 71-15' to 70 E on the world map.

3

Fig.1

1.3

TOPOGRAPHY

Malakand division is an all mountainous area, surrounded on the north by Hindukush and Karakuram Ranges where high snow covered peaks of world fame are located. The area starts gaining the altitude from Malakand Agency which starts from the foot hills of the Malakand Range. The Swat valley stretches from here on and reaches at high altitudes at Kalam and further towards north. Dir is relatively higher than Swat and subsequently Chitral is the highest valley bounded by the highest altitudes in the whole division. All three valleys are separated by mountain ranges running almost parallel in north-south orientation. The relative average altitudes of the district headquarters above sea level are as follows: i. ii. iii. iv. 1.4 Dir Swat Chitral Malakand CLIMATE 1382 Meters 1067 Meters 1475 Meters 689 Meters

Except Malakand Agency which is located at comparatively lower altitude, the climate of whole division is temperate during summer and colder in winter as compared to the rest of the province. Rainfall is spread over the months of January, February, March and April during the winter season and over the month of July and August during the summer. Most of the downpour occurs during January and March as a result of easterly winds from the Mediterranean sea.

Rainfall various around 100 mm to 150 mm while the temperature varies between 7 and 30 C. Most part of the division witnesses snow fall every year, mild at low altitude and heavy at high altitudes. Most peaks especially on the northern side remain snow clad all the year round, where glaciers are commonly found. 1.5 HISTORICAL BACKGROUND

The history of Malakand Agency is intricately woven with history of Swat, Dir and Chitral. Early in the sixteenth century the Yousafzai Pathans effected their entrance into Swat by the Malakand and in the 1587 Zain Khan, a general of the emperor Akbar, built a fort here. In 1845 the Pass was taken by the Chitral Relief Force and has since been occupied as a military post near which is also located the head quarters of the Political Agency. On July 26, 1897, the post was suddenly attacked by a large gathering of Swat under a fanatical leader, the Mulla Mastan. Tribesmen from Utman Khel and Upper Swat attacked which were later repulsed and the area was relieved on August 2, 1897. It remained under British control till 1947 when it became a part of Pakistan. However, its tribal status was recognized and to date it is a tribal area under the provincial control as (FATA)Provincially Administered Tribal Area. The district presently now and previously before, is partitioned between two parts by Malakand hill. The northern part is called Swat Ranizai and the southern part is called Sam Ranizai. Primarily the population of the area was and still is dependent upon agriculture with two distinct classes of agriculturists; the owners and tenants, with periodic uprising from time to time against each other. Without a mention of Malakand Operation, the history of Malakand is incomplete.

Back in 1895, the British Govt. adopted a forward policy to extend its occupation to Malakand and beyond, and lured some local influential to side with them, of course with immediate and long term benefits. They marched onwards despite resistance from the locals, but were fully engaged at Malakand Pass. A fierce battle between the British force and the local Mujahideen took place. The British finally succeeded in overcoming the resistance. The hill top and surrounding area was occupied by the British forces. Sir Winston Churchill, who later became the British Prime Minister was a lieutenant at that time, travelled in a tonga from Nowshera to Malakand and took part in the operation. One picket near Chakdara on the adjoining hill top, was named after him as "Churchill Picket". A few decades back in early sixties, Queen Elizabeth, on her way to Swat on the invitation of President Ayub visited this spot and conveyed her message to Churchill, who was alive then. The first historical mention of Swat is made by Arians, who record that in 326 B.C. Alexander the Great led his army through Kunar, Bajaur, Swat and Buner; but his successor, Seleucus, twenty years later handed over territories to Chandragupta. The inhabitants were in those days of Indian origin. Buddhism being the prevailing religion, they remained thus almost undisturbed under their own kings until the fifteenth century. They were the ancestors of the non-Pathan tribes. The invasions of the Yousafzai and other Pathan tribes, aided by the Utman Khel, then began; and by the sixteenth century, the Yousufzai were in possession of Buner and Lower Swat. The advent of these Pathan invaders introduced Islam throughout Swat. At this time the Emperor Babar, by a diplomatic marriage with the daughter of Malik Shah Mansoor, the head of the Yousafzai clan, and

by force of arms, established his sovereignty throughout these areas. However, Upper Swat was still held by the aboriginal Swatis under Sultan Uais or Wais, who also tendered a voluntary submission,. claiming protection from the invaders which Babar gave. In Humayun's reign, however, the advance was continued, and the Yousafzai overran Upper Swat. Humayun's yoke was rejected by them and even Akbar in 1584 could exert no more than a nominal submission. By 1658, however, in which year Aurangzeb ascended to the throne, the tribes refused to pay revenue, declared their independence, and maintained it till the time of Nadir Shah, whose successors, Ahmad Shah Durrani and Timur Shah, kept their hold on the area. The grasp was not lost by those who came after, and when Azim Khan attacked Sikhs in 1823, the Yousafzai sent a large contingent with their army. They were defeated and Ranjit Singh entered Peshawar, but did not move toward north. Syed Ahmad Shah Brailvi stood against the Sikhs but was martyred near Balakot in 1831. On the establishment of British rule in the Peshawar valley in 1849, no attempt was made to penetrate into these hills. The primacy then passed to Abdul Ghafoor, the famous Akhun, who established himself in 1835 at Saidu in Upper Swat, where he lived until his death in 1877. He was the most powerful man of his time. His shrine is located at Saidu which is now called Saidu Sharif. His son Abdul Wadud and grandson Miangul Jehanzeb were into Pakistan in 1968. Dir takes its name from the village Dir, situated at the extreme north which was the capital of the ruler, called Nawab, till 1960. Dir is situated on the bank of Dir tributary of Panjkora river. Presently the district has been bifurcated into Lower Dir and Upper Dir Districts with later called Bacha Saheb and Wali of Swat respectively. The state was merged

headquarter of Lower Dir is located at Timargara which occupies a central position in the district and Dir Town as the headquarter of Upper Dir, administratively. The problems of sovereignty over Dir has witnessed many a campaign between local Khan and Chieftains, prominent amongst them being the Khan of Jundool, Umara Khan, Mohammad Sharif Khan, Miangul of Swat (the son of Abdul Ghafoor Akhun). Chakdara, its extreme south village has seen many events from the days of Alexander the Great, Babar, the Mughal King and his descendants and finally the British in 1895 and 1897. It is to recall that the local Mujahideen voluntarily fought the British forces in 1895 when they tried to find their way to Chitral via Malakand-Chakdara. The "Ghazis" were defeated and a fort at Chakdara and a picket by the mane of Churchill Picket on the two hills were constructed. Dir as mentioned earlier was ruled by the Nawab, and his successors for over eighty years till 1960 when the control was taken over by the Pakistan Government after a brief and bloodless plan. Dir has the unique historical background of the visit by three prominent and powerful personalities. First of them was Alexander the Great who entered Dir from Bajaur side. At Talash in Dir he was stopped by the forces of a local monarch who happened to be a woman. A brief skirmish ensued and Alexandra sustained an injury on his leg by an arrow. Later on, a compromise was struck which resulted in the marriage of Alexander with the woman monarch. Secondly, Mahmood Ghaznavi also conquered the area by defeating the east while Hindu Shahi near Chakdara. The huge graveyard near Batkhela (Malakand Agency) is the resting place of many a Ghaznavi martyrs. In and around Chakdara are also found many coins of Mahmood of Ghaznavi, bearing evident to the Ghaznavi rule in the area. Thirdly, the Mughal King Babar also crossed over to Dir via Bajaur and then to Swat

through an intervening hill between Dir and Swat near village Ouch. The exact site where he crossed over the hill is called Ghakhai (Ghakhai means a cut). Lately, Umara Khan, a local Khan of Jandool (Dir) who rose high, fought with the British at Chitral. Because of his limited resources he could not stand the forces of the British and crossed over to Afghanistan. For his strategic moves and tactics in the war against British and local encounters he was sometimes called Napoleon of France. He was suffering from extreme lack of resources. All he depended upon and till very late thereafter, was the locally manufactured arms from a native area in Barawal, near Dir. The people of Chitral are predominantly emigrants from Afghanistan which is their close neighbor. Part of the population are those who came with Alexander the Great and settled here when he left the area. These remnants of those days have maintained their culture and identity till this day. The valleys where they live are known by the name of Kafiristan, the name which is now the main attraction for the tourists. Not only their beauty and attire but also their customs are attractive. By passage of time their number has decreased considerably as they are converting to Islam. There is a strong feeling for trying to maintain their identity and to have the least interference in their affairs. The name Kafiristan, as it was introduced in last forties has attracted tourists not only from far and wide within the country but also from all around the world. Till late fifties the district, previously known as a princely state of Chitral was ruled by "Mehtars". These Mehtars were emigrants from Afghanistan. The word `Mehtar' means superior, and the way they as Babar's

ruled and behaved was superior too. One of the main reasons of the backwardness and poverty of the area, besides difficult accessibility was the tight grip over the residents by these superior rulers. 1.6 AREA AND POPULATION

Malakand division is the largest in Pakistan in terms of area., The population of the division was 2.467 million in 1981, which has been estimated to be 3.725 million in 1991, at the growth rate of 3 % per annum. The 1996 population on the same growth rate has been estimated to be about 4.52 million. Table: 1 shows the population and area by districts of the division.

TABLE: 1 Population and Area by Districts S.NO . NAME OF DISTT AREA IN SQ.KM POPULATIO N IN 1981 POPULATION IN 1991 (ESTIMATED) 12,10,000 14,35,000 POPULATIO N IN 1994 (ESTIMATE D) 1412000 1641000 POPULATIO N IN 1996 (ESTIMATED ) -

1. 2.

DIR SWAT (with Shangla)

5,282 6,945

7,67,409 9,67,484

3.

BUNER

1,843

2,65,517

4,05,000

467000

-

4. 5.

CHITRAL MALAKAND TOTAL

14,850 952

2,08,560 2,57,797

2,91,000 3,84,000

325000 415000 42,60,000

45,20,000

1.7. ADMINISTRATIVE SET UP Malakand division has been divided into the following administrative units, which are also shown in Fig-2: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. Malakand Agency District Buner District Swat District Shangla District Lower Dir District Upper Dir District Chitral

Districts of Buner and Shangla had been historically a part of district Swat and are relatively recently established administrative units. However, the Malakand Division can be divided into distinct entities in a different fashion based on its physical, geographical and topographical features as follows: 1. 2. 3. 4. Malakand Agency Swat Dir Chitral

Fig. 2

2. GOALS AND OBJECTIVES2.1 GOALS

The goals of the Regional Master Plan are:a. Promote and develop the tourism industry of Malakand Division by involving both the private and public sectors. b. Fully protect and preserve the culture, traditions, history, heritage, environment and wild life of the target areas. c. Develop the socio-economic conditions of the people and areas having tourism potential. d. Gradually and systematically identify and develop all the existing potential areas for attracting tourists both from in and outside the country. e. Introduce, promote, develop and publicize the tourism potential of Malakand Division in and outside the country and f. 2.2 Make the STC a self financing agency. OBJECTIVES

The objectives of the Regional Master Plan are to:i. Systematically and through short, medium and long term strategy/plan/approach, gradually develop the potential areas of Malakand Division for generating income

by attracting the foreign as well as the potential areas. ii. Set the future direction of the

local tourists to the Sarhad Tourism

Corporation/Government of NWFP/Ministry of Tourism for the promotion and development of tourism in Malakand Division. iii. Involve private enterprises in setting up profitable and

innovative recreational tourist facilities/attractions in Malakand Division either individually or jointly with the government of N.W.F.P. iv. Explore and identify various ways and means for generating revenue for making the STC a self-financing organization. v. Provide the basic infrastructure and recreational activities required for the development of potential tourism areas to facilitate tourist travel, lodging, food and recreation etc. in collaboration with the private sector. vi. Develop the human resources of various institutions, both private and public, directly linked with the tourism industry, for providing services to the tourists. vii. Address the problems of unemployment, migration from rural to urban areas, income generation for the poor masses, and raising the standard of living of the potential areas. viii Identify the weaknesses in STC and their resolution to

strengthen the STC to fully implement the regional master plan and play its role as a catalyst.

ix.

Identify various areas having tourism potential and work out the appropriateness and feasibility of various activities for developing attractions in these areas.

x.

Promote and market the Malakand tourism industry in and outside the country.

xi.

Regulate, control and protect the environment of the crowded areas already thronged by the tourists/visitors and prevent the recurrence of this mishap in the potential tourist areas.

xii.

Privatize the tourism industry and install a sense of ownership of the tourism industry in the private investors.

xiii

Establish a network

amongst the private sector, Federal

Government, Provincial Government and other sister tourism institutions both in and outside the country for the improvement and promotion of the tourism in Malakand Region.

3. AN OVERVIEW OF EXISTING CONDITIONS3.1 EXISTING TOURISM ACTIVITY

3.1.1 Tourism Potential Pakistan enjoys a unique position due to its strategic location on the world map and its topographical and geographical features, especially the areas in the north. The area is known by virtue of its lofty mountains covered with snow, ever green pine, oaks and shrubs. Karakuram (K-2) the second highest peak in the world has graced this land by its location in the northern most part of the country. Picturesque mountain slopes with snow melt rivers flowing in the gorges present fascinating scenes which are attractive to locals and foreigner alike. Nature has gifted this country with vast scope of developing the beautiful hills and panoramic views. Malakand division constitutes a significant part of the beautiful country located north of Pakistan. It consists of the valleys of Swat, Dir and Chitral, all unique in the potential scenic beauty as attraction for tourists. To the outside world these valleys truly represent Pakistan for tourism activity. Besides the natural beauty, these areas have rich historical background. If backwardness is taken as blessing in disguise, few of the locations here have seen little impact of modern life, therefore they are culturally preserved in original form. The flow of visitors started towards Malakand division in early fifties when the first book on Kafiristan was published. The attractive narration of the different customs of the local inhabitants, together with beautiful description of the valleys opened a new era for this

otherwise forgotten land. Whosoever went to the valleys of Kafiristan in Chitral was enchanted by the rhythmic music of turbulent streams, chirping birds on the trees and beautiful Kalash women. 3.1.2 Tourism Seasons Most areas in Malakand Division are located at high altitudes which witness extremely cold winters. Besides, due to the land sliding and excessive snow fall, the access to these areas especially Chitral becomes extremely difficult and sometimes impossible. Therefore, the most suitable period for tourists to visit these areas is during summer. This is the time when other parts of the country witness scorching heat and people flock to the hilly areas. Although the tourists visit these areas around the year even during winter but they are very few in number and their visits are limited to relatively low-lying areas. The main-stream of the tourists starts coming sometimes during May and continue till October. Therefore normally the tourists season is considered to be from mid May to mid October, every year. 3.1.3 Composition of Tourists In the early days of Pakistan a tourist was necessarily taken as a foreigner, as both words (tourist and foreigner) were synonymous to each other. As the time passed and socio-economic conditions in Pakistan improved, a significant number of local population started taking part in tourism activity. With exposure to the outside world, increased number of educated families with increase in affordability and the revolution brought by the mass media, people of Pakistan realized need for recreation to enjoy vacationing. Gradually a class of local and domestic tourists developed which has now increased to a significant size.

The tourists now are divided into three categories: (a) (b) (c) Local tourists. Domestic tourists. Foreign tourists.

Local tourists belong to the same area and make short time visits mostly on daily basis. They are generally week-end holiday makers. Domestic tourists are presently perhaps the largest proportion of tourists. These are the people who visit the tourists places during the annual vacation (summer and winter) periods and belong to Peshawar, Islamabad, Lahore, Karachi and the remaining parts of the country. Foreign tourists mainly come from Europe, America, Australia and

Japan. The only country in Asia which has significant share in Pakistan Tourism is Japan. Foreign tourists are a significant proportion of the total tourists in Pakistan. According to the Additional Secretary, Tourism, Mr. Hassan Raza Pasha, Since 1983, tourists arrival in Pakistan ranged between 3,65,000 and 4,54,000. He noted that the tourists arrival in Pakistan as much lower than in most other countries in the region. According to a recent World Travel and Tourism Council Survey in 1995, there are 212 million tourism related jobs in the world which are contributing $ 3.4 trillion or 10.9 % of the global GDP. According to a forecast, till the year 2010 East Asia and Pacific regions will grow by 7% on the average in the tourists arrival which is almost double the world average. 3.1.4 Tourism Related Services

There are two significant aspects regarding the services to be provided to tourists at any place. One is comfort and the other is adventure. Tourists prefer to make their period of stay as comfortable as possible. However, there are certain instances when any difficulty during the journey or stay needs little hardship which is taken as adventure. But under normal circumstances, there are basic human needs which certainly require to be provided. Following is an overview of the basic services which are presently existing for the tourists.

a.

Transportation

The country has at present a vast and extensive network of air, rail and road linkages. However, appropriate modes of suitable transport within the division exist in the private sector alone as no specific arrangements for tourists is made by the public sector. Private busses, wagons and small vehicles ply everywhere in the division, which are mostly not very comfortable seating capacity wise nor to the level of service. To approach the attractive but difficult terrains in the far flung areas jeeps are available to hire, but the system lacks an organized network. The rates of these jeeps are determined at will by the operators and are quite exorbitant during the peak tourists season. There is no uniformity in rates nor there is any organized check system on the fares. b. Hotels

Hotel business is mainly owned by the private sector, except at locations where PTDC owns motels, one at Kalam and the other at

Chitral. There is only one four star hotel located at Mingora; all others are either two star or one star hotels. It is extremely difficult to assess the total number of hotels in the division or their total bed capacity, the reason being that none of them has been registered with the Ministry of Tourism which exercises control on them. However, the major concentration of hotels are in Mingora, Madyan, Bahrain and Kalam in Swat. A number of hotels are also located in Dir and Chitral, in the private sector. The performance of these hotels has been poor both in terms of standards and level of service. Due to the lack of any control on this business, they operate under the free market system. Room rents are fixed by the management which changes according to the demand. It was revealed during an interview with some of the tourists in Madyan and Kalam that the rent peak season. c. Restaurants for a single room of Rs. 300.00 per night during the off-season rises upto Rs. 3,000.00 per night during the

Similar to the case of hotels, the restaurants also have shown a poor performance. Firstly, there is a shortage of standard restaurants throughout the division. Secondly, the level of service is poor as most of them do not follow the basic principles of health and hygiene. Thirdly, due to the lack of any control measures, the meals service charges are quite exorbitant, especially during the peak tourists season. d. Basic Urban Facilities

Basic urban facilities including shopping areas, post and telegraph offices, telephone offices, banks etc. are sporadically located in the division. While the shopping areas and postal services are adequately available, telecommunication network has been recently improved but not to the level of satisfaction. Those provided by the hotels are often too expensive due to the additional service charges and sales tax. Public telephone facility is limited to a few locations only and that also is limited to the office working hours. Night shift at any telephone exchange is not operative. e. Safety

Safety to the visitors is the first and foremost requirement for any tourism industry to develop and flourish. While the law and order situation in the valleys has been always under control, there had been some incidents of theft, looting, decoities, kidnapping and even killing in the fast past. An extensive network of police surveillance has now been established even to the remote areas, as a result such incidents are very rarely happening now. The most recent incident reported in the press was the looting of four wagons at Lowari Top during the broad day light on June 22, 1996. In general, the police remains on high alert during the tourist season and safety of the visitors is adequately guaranteed.

f.

Tourists Information Centers

There are not many tourists information centers in the division. Only PTDC provides this facility at few locations only, which is extremely deficient in terms of the level of service. Their number is very small

and they provide little information, and are not operating around the clock whereas the tourists have no specific time to arrive at a certain place. These centers are open only during the working hours on the working days. Tourists have been observed to be stuck up during the weekly holidays and late in the evenings, due to the lack of information regarding the road conditions to proceed further in their journey. g. Tour Operators and Guides

An extensive network of tour operators working as travel agents exists in the area to provide an adequate level of service to the tourists during all seasons. Besides, tour guides area also available on specific locations to be hired for specific journeys. However, due to the lack of an organized institutional arrangement for control of their activities, their performance has not been excellent. 3.1.5 An Overview of Tourism in Pakistan In spite of the presence of all that, a tourist looks forward to enjoying lofty mountains, verdant valleys, unrivalled sprawling sky line, archaeological sites, inviting mountain slopes, rich cultural diversity, exquisite curiosities and above all, a highly hospitable people. Pakistan has not made significant progress in tourism industry. This is a discouraging situation when compared with countries with much less to offer to tourists while reaping a rich harvest of travellers and tourists by way of collecting millions in foreign exchange.

Pakistan still remains absent from the world tourist map because

tourism has been treated by the successive governments casually and not as an industry with great potential as a foreign exchange earner. Tourism is already the world's fastest growing industry after oil. Its annual turn - over is about $ 3.0 trillion. It is expected to surpass every other industry by the end of the first quarter of the 21st century, if a systematic progressive policy is adopted to development in the coming few years from now. Over two and half decades back Pakistan seemed destined to become the hottest tourists spot in South and South East Asia. That was in the early 1970's. A french firm had been commissioned to carry out a study to suggest short and long-term plans for the promotion of Tourism. The firm, Sena Metra, in its voluminous report prepared a 20 year perspective plan which included development of new tourists sites, upgrading of existing infrastructure facilities, promotion and publicity on incremental basis to market the tourist products thus developed. This plan was never taken seriously and since then has been shelved. The sector in spite of having received the status of an industry has remained neglected due mainly to the bureaucratic bottlenecks and various related reasons. 3.1.6 Recent Efforts In response to growing demands and awareness of the potential in this sector major steps are being under taken to develop tourism in Pakistan. Well thought over arrangement are being made in this regard. Following recent activities undertaken by various organizations are indicative of a national policy change and attitude.

i.

The year 1996 marks the advent of professionally organized tourist inflow from Italy to Pakistan. This has come in wake of a recent agreement between one of the largest tour operators of Italy, Vegetal Buonconsiglio and Pakistan Tours Ltd, (PTL) of PTDC which is government's organization for promotion of tourism in Pakistan. Two large groups of tourist have already visited Pakistan and more are expected. Tourists inflow from Italy which till now averaged around 3000 per year are expected to double by next year. The country is likely to earn over US $ 5 million Europe. from the new Italian market of tourism. Similar agreements are planned to be signed with 5 more companies of

ii.

A 2-day unique exhibition, the EXPO's TRAVEL - 96 was held in Karachi, providing an opportunity to people to plan their holidays in accordance with their disposable expenditure.

iii.

The recently introduced STC Copter Safari provides an excellent opportunity to visit Naran, Saiful Muluk, Kalam, Mahudand, and the valley of Kalash. The one day trip from Peshawar includes round trip, sight seeing, lunch and refreshments.

iv.

Jashn-e-Swat is an annual event, which has been recently organized at official level and is held with fervor.

v.

TDCP has very recently established Institute of Tourism and Hotel Management (ITHM) in Lahore to bring trained work force into tourism industry.

vi.

A 2-day workshop was held in Lahore on "Tourism in Pakistan Opportunities and Challenges" during May 1996.

vii.

According to the Federal Additional Secretary for Tourism, Mr. Hassan Raza Pasha, the plans to establish a National Tourism Council are already being made, which will be hopefully established very soon.

viii.

Pakistan Tourism Human Resource Development Committee is carrying out a programme for introducing new standards in eight disciplines of hospitality sector to cater to the needs of foreign tourists in Pakistan. The project is financed by the European Commission for an integrated human resource development programme for seven SAARC countries at a cost of 10 million US dollars and coordinated by the South Asian Tourism Secretariat (SATS) will train 48,000 workers of hospitality sector by the year 2000. Consequently, it was decided to hold 28 workshops to train 600 persons in Pakistan alone.

3.2

INFRASTRUCTURE FACILITIES

The availability of various infrastructure facilities at selected locations in Malakand Division are shown in Fig.3-A, and have been described here. All the major settlements of the Malakand Agency are located along the major road connecting the Malakand Division with Peshawar. The small villages located within the valleys are also connected to this regional road network through metalled roads or Jeepable tracks. The Malakand Agency provides links to rest of the Division from Dargai, being the last railway station from Nowshera and Mardan. However, no air-link is provided to it from any other place. All major

settlements in Malakand Agency have electricity and telephone facilities. Supply of water is also provided adequately to these settlements. However, the sewerage facility is completely lacking in the area and so are the appropriate measures for solid waste collection and disposal. Sui gas supply has reached Dargai, and it is planned to be extended to the Agency and beyond. Swat is well connected to other parts of the Province through a good quality road which runs north-south, linking all the major settlements in the area. Within Swat this road starts from Malakand and leads all the way upto Kalam in the north, from where two roads; one to Mahudand and another to Athror provide reasonable links in the area. The road providing accessibility to the Buner district and the Shangla district, however are not of excellent quality as they need continuous maintenance and improvement works. In addition to the main regional road network, smaller access roads linking the smaller valleys are also not of good quality. Rail link is provided upto Dargai only which is located across Malakand Pass. However, regular commercial flights are operated providing air link of Swat with the rest of the country. The Saidu Sharif Airport is Fig.3-A

located near Mingora across the River Swat. The Municipal water supply system exists in Mingora and a limited number of villages only. Most of other settlements either use spring water or river water for drinking purpose. Water is normally available except at a few places located at high altitudes where spring water and flowing streams are away from the vicinity. Sewerage system is also limited to Mingora city only. However, open drains exist in other human settlements. Being a hilly terrain rain water drainage is not a problem. Haphazard constructions however have posed problem of obstructing the flood water run off during the past, with partial damages to the built up properties. Municipal solid waste collection and disposal exists in Mingora city only and that also is not without deficiencies in operation and coverage. All other settlements have virtually no system as such, creating serious environmental pollution problems, which need to be taken care of. Mingora is connected with rest of the world through the Nationwide Direct Dialling Telephone network. Telephone facility is provided to almost all the settlements located along the main road. Electricity in also provided to most of the areas in Swat. However, gas facility has not yet reached in this part of the country though a programme is on the anvil. The situation in Dir is different than any other area of the division. Till 1960, there was no concept of any facility whatsoever as the Nawab being the despotic ruler of the state, did not allow even a primary school though he had a hospital for his dogs and falcons. He had "Hakims" for his private treatment also. After attaining a district status, a network of roads has now been constructed. The main Chakdara-Dir road is black topped and so are quite a few more. Water supply schemes have been established in major villages of the district. Sewerage arrangements are being introduced now while there is no

concept of solid waste disposal, anywhere in the district. Accessibility to certain places is perhaps the most basic requirement and Chitral has been quite unfortunate in this regard as the only road link to the rest of the country passes through Lowari top which remains closed for almost 6 months of winter during the year. This Top, located at more then 13,000 feet above sea level comes under heavy snow fall during the winter and after the snow melts, the land sliding activity takes place, bringing considerable damage to the road. A proposal to build a tunnel under the pass has been a sweet dream of the people of Chitral which has also been a broken promise of the successive governments since past many decades. It is also a much used and still effective political slogan. Even now, the last Prime Minister of Pakistan, Mrs. Benazeer Bhutto has announced an amount of Rs 200.0 millions in the 8th Five Year Plan for this purpose. However, there are little hopes for this dream to come true. As an alternate the people of Chitral are forced to use the road through Arandu into Kunar Province of Afghanistan and then again into either Mohmand Agency or Khyber Agency of the tribal areas. This route has proved extremely unsafe and risky and is certainly not suitable to the foreign and domestic tourists. Although Chitral has an airlink with Peshawar and a daily flight operates, but it is always subject to the weather conditions and rarely operates regularly. However, when the Lowari Top opens during the summer both foreign as well as domestic tourists flock to the area, which is otherwise well connected to its various parts. No adequate access roads are otherwise provided to the numerous small valleys of the area. Water is abundantly available in Chitral valley. The major towns have tapped water supply, whereas other settlements use either spring water or the river water. Planned and well designed sewerage system does not exist anywhere in the

district. Electricity is available to only the major towns and that also from the local generators of limited capacity. However, there are plans to electrify the settlements in the near future. The district has by now been connected with the national grid but extension of power lines are yet to be done, depending on availability of financial resources. 3.3 EXISTING CIVIC AMENITIES

Fig. 3-B and Fig. 3-C give a brief description of the availability of civic amenities and tourist facilities at selected locations in the Malakand Division. The settlements along the main road in Malakand Agency are adequately served by the civic amenities including banks, post offices, police stations, and shopping areas. The Fig.3-B

Fig.3-C

Agency headquarters hospital located at Batkhela near the Malakand Top is well equipped to provide basic as well as specialized health facilities both to the locals and the transit visitors. Two other hospitals at Dargai and Thana are also serving the respective area. Hotels are almost non-existent in the area as the visitors including the tourists are mostly transit passengers. A number of government rest houses are located along the main road but these do not provide accommodation to the visitors unless by special arrangements. A PTDC road side facility near Batkhela has been provided recently. There are large number of local restaurants located in the towns along the main road but few are upto the standard. No tourist information centre is located in the Agency area, however, information is provided in an informal manner by the locals, if required. A detailed survey was carried out by the Consultants team in order to ascertain the availability and condition of the existing infrastructure facilities and civic amenities in each of the potential sites, to become a basis for the future plans and proposals. The copy of the proforma is attached at the end of this Report as Annexure-I. Being the capital of Malakand Division, most of the civic amenities are concentrated at Mingora, Saidu Sharif. The branch facilities are provided to most of the human settlements in the area. They include banks, post offices, police stations, hospitals, dispensaries and shopping Centers. Mingora is also the centre of the tourist activities as most of the tourists leading towards north make a stop over at Mingora. There are a number of hotels with varying bed capacity and quality of service. However, there is only one five star hotel which is located at Mingora. Hotels are scattered all over the Upper Swat at various locations with varying quality and bed capacities. Restaurants are also located in almost all the settlements along the road, but good

quality restaurants are few. Rest Houses belonging to various government departments/agencies are also located at a few locations in Swat, but are not available for the tourists. Police posts have been established at important villages with sub-posts around for the purpose of maintaining law and order. Postal services are also available, whereas hospitals/Rural Health Centers have also been established. District Headquarter Hospital at Timargara is mostly fulfilling the needs of the patients. NWD facilities have been extended to all the important settlements. Shopping facilities exist at a number of places, the main business Centers are Batkhela in Malakand Agency, while the second one is at Timargara, the district headquarter of Lower Dir. Good quality restaurants are not available anywhere. From tourism point of view there is no facility whatsoever throughout along the main Chakdara to Dir road nor anywhere in the beautiful lateral valleys. At Panakot near Dir a PTDC motel is nearing completion. The major urban settlements of Chitral are linked by the telephone network, which however, needs to be further extended. Other urban facilities including health centers, post & telegraph offices, police and scout offices, banks and shopping areas are all located in the major settlements of the area. There are few quality hotels in the district, which are mainly concentrated in Chitral city. Most other towns do not have decent arrangements for overnight stays. Local restaurants catering for the needs of the locals and visitors alike are available at most of the settlements, but their quality and level of services is generally poor. However, some good quality restaurants are located in Chitral town only. Other amenities like tourist information centers, tour agents/operators and guides are also available at limited

locations.

4. DATA COLLECTION & ANALYSISPreparation of Master Plan for the development and promotion of tourism at Regional level is perhaps the first exercise of its kind ever undertaken in Pakistan. Therefore no baseline data was available for various aspects involved in tourism. A large scale country vide and multiple questionnaire survey for this purpose was neither possible to be carried out within the time allowed nor was it within the scope of this Master Plan. However, necessary opinion surveys have been conducted in order to provide adequate background information and gain better insights into the problems faced by the tourists and other related aspects. These surveys are simply meant to reflect various opinions and have been carried out with small sample size which can not be statistically analyzed on any level of confidence. The results however reflect the existing conditions in an appropriate manner to serve the purpose of this Master Plan. Adequate data pertaining to various aspects has been collected both from primary as well secondary sources, in order to gain in depth insights to arrive at useful conclusions. Primary source data collection involved number of site visits and questionnaire surveys. The details of data collection and its analysis are as follows. 4.1 SURVEY FOR THE IDENTIFICATION OF POTENTIAL

TOURISM SITES The whole Division was visited and studied by the team of consultants in order to identify the potential sites to be selected for tourism attractions. They included sites of historical and cultural significance,

scenic and natural beauty and other places of interest. As a result, a long list of potential sites was prepared and is included in chapter 6 of this Master Plan.

4.2

SURVEY OF EXISTING INFRASTRUCTURE FACILITIES

The data regarding the existing infrastructure facilities including roads, water supply, sewerage, solid waste disposal, electricity and telephone were collected from various government departments and agencies. The data included the availability of service, level of service, and condition of service in order to estimate deficiency in each facility in terms of its provision at various specific locations with regard to the potential tourism sites selected for the Master Plan. The departments visited for this purpose included the C&W department, Public Health Engineering Department and Local Municipal offices. Information was also collected regarding the projects presently under execution and those already approved for execution . The results of this survey have already been given in chapter 3 of this master plan. 4.3 SURVEY OF EXISTING CIVIC AMENITIES

The data regarding the existing civic amenities including Police, Post, Health, Banks etc. was collected from the Divisional Police Headquarters, General Post Office, Peshawar, Directorate of Health and Zonal Head Offices of various commercial banks respectively. The data was than separated which was related to the specific selected potential tourism sites. The data included the availability of service, level of service and service area covered, in order to identify the deficiencies. The analysis of this survey is also already given in

chapter 3 of this Master Plan. 4.4 SURVEYS OF THE FOREIGN TOURISTS

Foreign tourists were divided into two categories. i) ii) (A) Foreign tourists Foreigners working in N.W.F.P Foreign Tourists

A total of 12 foreign tourists were randomly approached and interviewed for this purpose. The results of the interviews are as follows. Out of the total 8 were male and 4 were female. Except one

Australian all other belonged to Europe with as much as 8 from U.K alone. They belonged to a variety of professions including engineers, students, farmer, factory workers and even a priest. The countries last visited before Pakistan were India, Iran , China, Egypt and Malaysia, out of which India, China and Iran are neighbors of Pakistan. The foreign tourists expressed a multitude of purposes behind their visit to Pakistan. They mostly came for tracking , mountain climbing, sight seeing and to visit the historic and cultural places. A few of then (2 out of 12) came for sex and drugs. This clearly reflects that the tourists interested in sex and drugs are actually very small in number, leading to the fact that good tourism is quite possible without sex and drugs.

Peshawar, Swat, Chitral and Northern Areas were the places of attraction for these tourists. Other places in Pakistan included Mohenjodaro, Quetta and Bahawalpur. Books and friends were among the most common means to come to know about tourist places in Pakistan. Half of the tourists entered into Pakistan by air while the others came by road. After entering into Pakistan bus and coach were the most common modes of transport used by the foreign tourists. It is interesting to note that most of the foreign tourists were travelling single and not in groups. The expenditure mostly ranged from Rs. 20,000/- to Rs. 40,000/- per person. Foreign tourists have expressed the following problems faced by them during their stay in Pakistan. Problems. i. ii. iii. iv. v. vi. vii. viii. ix. x. Lack of information and sometimes wrong information. Harassment by local males to female tourists . Cheating in terms of many matters. Child beggars. Lack of permission to visit Khyber Pass and Tribal Areas. Non-availability of transport at night. Difference in price charged to a foreigner or a local. Lack of credit card /currency exchange facility. Too many police check posts and movement restrictions. Short duration of visas for Pakistan.

xi. xii.

Poor quality food and other goods. Lack of good quality , average period hotels.

Following are some of the suggestions came from the foreign tourists. Suggestions. i. ii. iii. iv. v. Provide better and efficient garbage collection and

disposal system for generally clean environment. Police checking should be made at few places only to make movement easier. Accessibility possible. Regulate the pricing system for hotels, restaurant and transport. Appropriate tourism literature should be made available for better information. It was revealed by the survey that normally the duration of the tourist stay ranged from one week to one month. A copy of the survey proforma is attached at the end of this report as Annex-II. (B). Survey of Foreigners Working in NWFP. to more areas should be made easily

A large number of foreigners working mostly with the international aid agencies are living in NWFP, mostly in Peshawar. A total of 10 such foreigners were interviewed in connection of tourism in NWFP. A copy of the proforma is attached with this report as Annex-III. The analysis of these interviews is as follows. Out of the 10, only one was a female and all others were male. Except

one Afghan and one American all others were from different countries of Europe. They had been in Pakistan for a period ranging from 1 year to 4 years. Most of them were doing administrative jobs of managerial level. It is revealed from the survey that these foreigners quite frequently visit the tourism places and often the same place more than once. The most frequently visited places include Murree in Punjab, Swat, Chitral, Kaghan and Guliyat Area in NWFP. Books, literature and friends have again emerged as the most common means of information about these places. Following are some of the problems faced by these tourists. Problems. i) ii) iii) Lack of adequate and authentic information about specific sites, even from the Tourist Information Centers of PTDC. Frequently cancellation of flights, especially to Gilgit and Chitral. Lack of appropriate and adequate facilities. Some of the suggestion made by these tourists to improve tourism activity are as follows. Suggestions. i) ii) iii) iv) Provide adequate information about the tourism locations. Improve the advertising and promotion of tourism. Improve physical conditions on tourist locations. Introduce more tourist locations and attractions.

v) vi) vii) 4.5

Improve the general hotel conditions. Improve the means of communication. Improve hotel, restaurant and car rental services.

SURVEYS WITH THE LOCAL/DOMESTIC TOURISTS

A total of 20 questionnaires were completed at various locations in the Region. A copy of the proforma is attached with this report as Annex-IV. The analysis of the survey results is as follows: Level of education is essentially a strong determinant of a persons's awareness and attitude towards recreation. Therefore persons with varied type of education level were interviewed. Out of the total 15 % had no formal education, whereas 25 % of the total were metric and as much as 30 % had intermediate level of education. Another 30 % were graduates. Responding to the question, everybody agreed that recreation was essential for life and a necessity for good health. A significant majority of the respondents revealed that they go frequently for recreation and as much as 95 % of the total respondents confirmed it. It was revealed that most of the people (65 %) go for recreation on monthly basis. Another 10 % show an annual opportunity for this purpose. Social, Cultural and tribal values are very strong in NWFP. Most areas still reflect traditional attitudes in activities of daily life including recreation of female family members. However, these values are changing fast, but to some extent they are still intact as shown by the survey results. The survey has shown that only 85 % of the total respondents take their family out for recreation and the remaining 15 % do not follow this practice. There are three common reasons discovered for not taking the family out for recreation, which are as follows:

i. ii. iii.

Personal disliking Lack of security in public places Religious reasons

People go to various places for recreation. As much as 42 % of the total go to the Malakand Region which includes the valleys of Swat, Dir and Chitral. Swat being located closest is perhaps the most popular destination. Places located in Punjab are the second most popular destinations and they include Murree, Islamabad and Lahore, as about 30 % of the total respondents go there during vacations. Hazara Region is another popular destination as about 15 % go to Abbottabad and Kaghan for this purpose. About 8 % remains in Peshawar and visit the local recreation places including Hayatabad. As much as 95 % of the total respondents expressed that such activity will be good for the local economy, as it will generate income for the local population. 4.6 SURVEY FOR THE COMMUNITY PARTICIPATION

A total of 20 locals belonging the nearby areas where most of the tourism activities take place were interviewed. A copy of the proforma for this purpose is attached with this report as Annex-V. The results of this survey are discussed in details in chapter 13 of this report being the appropriate and relevant place.

5. OVERALL STRATEGY FOR THE MASTER PLAN5.1 IMMEDIATE ACTION PROGRAMME. (IAP)

The overall strategy of the Master Plan is based on two pronged approach; an immediate action programme for the initial period of 2 years, and a long term programme spanning over a period of 10 years. The long term programme period will include the immediate action programme, and will be integrated accordingly. The Immediate Action Programme (IAP) will essentially prepare and provide a base, an environment and a set up for the implementation of the long term programme . In order to achieve this objective and to ensure smooth implementation of the Master Plan, the actions proposed at this stage will not be based on large scale financing. This stage will involve the preparation of various policies and regulatory measures and their implementation in order to improve the existing conditions in tourism sector without proposing facilities and infrastructure carried out during this period are as follows: i. design, adopt and enforce the regulatory measures for the provision of various tourism facilities. ii. carry out marketing and promotion drives at intensive and extensive levels. iii. improve/upgrade the existing deficient infrastructure facilities and the civic amenities. the large scale new The major activities proposed to be

iv.

commence the institutional strengthening of STC to enable it to fully discharge its future role as a leading agency in tourism sector.

5.2

LONG TERM PROGRAMME.

Once the policies have been prepared and a general environment for the tourism promotion an development has been established, the long term programme will be implemented which will certainly involve large scale funding and financing. This stage will involve the project preparation, planning and implementation in a phased out manner based on the established priorities. All the development projects are proposed to be executed in this stage in an integrated fashion as will be reflected later in the chapter on the project implementation. The major activities proposed to be carried out during this stage are therefor as follows: i. extension of the infrastructure facilities and provision of civic amenities to new sites in an integrated manner. ii. extension of the level and coverage of the marketing and promotion campaign. iii. emphasis on revenue generation activities for sustainable development in the tourism sector.

6. POTENTIAL TOURISM SITES AND LOCATION SA long list of potential sites and location was prepared and included in the Report on Existing Conditions. However, the list is neither exhaustive nor it is within the scope of the consultants work to prepare a 100% complete list of potential sites and location. In absolute terms every location within the study area is a candidate for development into some kind of tourism facility, be a picnic spot or a roadside facility. Nonetheless, the consultants have made every effort to identify all the potential sites and locations for the purpose of this Master Plan.

6.1 MALAKAND AGENCYMalakand Agency has a few places of interest to the visitors (Fig.4-A). The details of which are as follows: 6.1.1 Jabban This site is close to Dargai, located at the exit the Upper Swat Canal of tunnel from the Malakand hill. Hardly four km away from Dargai, this beautiful spot covered with thick growth of trees presents a fascinating view. As the first of the two power houses is located here, the churning of water fall, the humming of the transformers and chirping of birds, all combined, pervade the atmosphere. Visitors, mostly college students, boys and girls from all parts of the country make it an annual feature of their excursion trips to visit this site and spend a few hours. Some periodically come here for picnic which they find as ideal place to enjoy with friends and realties.

Fig.4-A

6.1.2 Malakand Pass Malakand Pass throughout its length from the bottom near Dargai to the top offers excellent views of scenic beauty and an interesting drive. The view of valley down from the top is immensely impressive and attractive. The lush green fields in the far distant and the shining waters of Upper Swat Canal catch the attention of every passer by. One or two view points at appropriate locations need to be established with necessary protective measures. As soon as one completes the ascent and reaches the top, one feels like taking a little rest and to enjoy the view. Presently, the restaurants located at the top do not offer adequate and decent facilities, Therefore, a good quality restaurant is certainly required. 6.1.3 Palai This is a plain area at the foot of Chirat hill. A group of other villages also co-exist here. These villages belong to the Khans of Thana. Climatically the area is not attractive but its chief specialty lies in two ways. Firstly the area abounds in old Buddhist remains. Valuable statues have been recovered from the area illegally as well as unauthorisedly. The second specialty of the area is the high quality oranges produced here which have no comparison elsewhere in the whole of the country. The area is accessible from two routes. One is from Thana via Cherat mountain. The hill has a steep rough climb. The black topping of the road is in progress under the ADP and it is hoped that it will make the access easy for the area. The second and longer route is from Shergarh of Mardan district. Palai area is also known for production of tomatoes in autumn and early winter.

6.1.4 Moora Hill This high mountain resort is partly accessible by road as a television booster has been established here but the scenic spots are a little higher and not presently connected by road. The present electric line can be extended to here and access road will also be necessary. Spring water is already available. The average height of the area is 5500 feet hill. 6.1.5 Seelai Patai This site is a hill resort apposite Kalangai near the junction of Swat and Panjkora rivers, at a height of 4500 feet above sea level. This is a pleasant tourist potential site, which lacks good approach at present. Initially some police protection may be needed as the population is not tourism oriented. 6.1.6 Left bank of River swat The road from Batkhela to Swat passes through green fields with shady trees on both sides of the road. This is particularly applicable in the stretch from Batkhela to Thana. The river on the left somewhere touching the road boundary is an added attraction. Cool aromatic breeze even in the hot summer months refreshes the tourists while driving. A tourist park on the left bank of river Swat starting from Chakdara which affords enough cool climate for the tourists. The approach is from Thana to the T.V. booster and a little higher in the

Bridge upstream in a length of 2 to 3 Km with a reasonable width of around 100 feet, constructed will provide a picnic spot for the visitors. The site is ideal for such a facility. Opposite on the right bank are a few huts each owned by the district administration, the Dir scouts and others. These are however, not available for the tourists. A police "Chauki" is already established at the bridge site and it can extend safety cover for all tourists.

6.2 BUNER DISTRICTThe little explored and relatively unexposed district of Buner has many potential sites for tourism as shown in Fig.4-B and discussed below: 6.2.1. The Shrine of Pir Baba

This shrine located at Pacha Killi is known far and wide in the NWFP and is visited by devotees from every district of NWFP, some from Azad Kashmir and others from Punjab. The saint Said Ali was a pious man devoted to worship and preaching of Islam. He therefore attracted people and many of them reformed themselves. Incidentally he was also a close relative of Moghal King Akbar. A beautiful spot with a great deal of tourism potential from the natural and scenic beauty point of view exists at a distance of about 2 kilometers north-east of this Ziarat which is most suitable to be

developed as a picnic spot. 6.2.2 Mahaban Valley This valley is known for its natural beauty in between green hills and sweet spring waters. Of late the Frontier assembly unanimously resolved to declare it a natural area for preservation. As no facilities exist here the area is infrequently visited even by the nearby district inhabitants of Swabi and Mardan. 6.2.3 Elum/Dosarri These are two adjoining hill tops of about 7000 ft height each and are visible from a distance from what ever direction you look them within Buner. Their view is more conspicuous during winter when the tops are covered with snow. An interesting legend prevails in Buner in old days, that the villagers when asked to decide which hill top Fig.4-B

was higher than the other they were always indecisive. Some who favored one hill top would fight with others who favored the other hill top. Because of the high altitude these hill tops are most attractive in summer for their fresh cool air and green surroundings of pine trees and mostly medicinal shrubs and sweet smelling wild flowers. The greenery is a good abode for wiled life, goats, monkeys, and even leopards. No facility of tourism activity exists though potentially there is no better place than this throughout Buner and in the near part of Swat. 6.2.4 Karakar Top The beautiful mountain top falling on way from Barikot to Daggar has good potential to be developed as a tourist attraction with related ancillary facilities.

6.3 SWATSwat is graciously blessed by God in terms of natural and scenic beauty. The journey on the road from Malakand to Swat for most part is thrilling and exciting. The fruit gardens on one side and the River Swat on the other side with snow clad peaks in farther hills and lush green paddy fields by the river side presents an enchanting and enamoring scenery. Almost all areas are beautiful and the preference of one spot over the other is extremely difficult to decide. However, for the purpose of this project and based on the criteria of tourism the following sites/settlements have been designated as candidate sites where some sort of tourism activity can either be established or enhanced (Fig.4-C).

6.3.1 Udegram Ruins Udegram was an extremely large town where we can see the ruined massive buildings dating back to the Kushan period. Here an imposing staircase has been uncovered consisting of a series of steps about 25 feet long which belong to the Sassanian period. Arrows found in great quantity testify to the fierce battles which in various Fig.4-C

periods were fought for its capture. Coins, pottery, beads and a few ornaments are precious items of reference in the chronological order with reference to the various layers. 6.3.2 Shankar Dara There is a stupa most probably of the days of Ashoka and building remains/ruins on a small hill, which also date back to the Buddhist days which was the prime period of this religion for its followers in this part of the country. A unique feature of the buildings constructed during the Budhist civilization is that these buildings used to be located on the adjacent hills adjoining the cultivable lands or in some cases adjoining flowing water. This indicates that they would try to be placed on safe commanding sites away from the vagary of floods and/or possible invaders. 6.3.3 Ghalegai Cave This is a prehistoric cave near a stupa close to the village Ghalegai. Details of this cave are shrouded and have to be explored. This is an outstanding challenge for the present day archaeologists. 6.3.4 Budha On Rock Near village Ghalegai on road from Chakdara to Saidu Sharif is a large statue of Mahatma Budha carved on a big rock and is an item of attraction for the visitors. There is no sign post and most of the tourists cross over the bend of the road unaware of the location. A few steps were constructed during the past for observing the statue closely. With manhandling during the past, the statue has been

disfigured. Even now it is not too late to mend. A railing with a small gate and a sign post is needed. The sign post or impression that the statue is meant to be preserved. 6.3.5 Gogdara Beyond Ghalegai , this is the most attractive site just off the main road. Carvings of historic significance on rock here are of main interest. 6.3.6 Landaki Fishing Point This is a beautiful spot as the Swat River hugs the road here in a bend. Reclaimed river bed with grassy cover and few shady trees has made this site attractive. Small improvised refreshment stalls have been created for temporary stop over of passengers and tourists. Some amateur anglers try their luck for fishing here, others enjoy the roasted fish with a cup of tea or a cold drink. 6.3.7 Mingora Mingora is the district as well as the division headquarters and main commercial area. Its shopkeepers are always prepared to engage in serious bargaining and they offer wide range of items such as jewellery, gems, embroidery, local handicrafts and Swati shawls. Foreign made items are abundantly available as a number of people of Swat are employed overseas and in merchant navy who bring these items with them and dispose them off in the local market. It is the main concentration of a large number of tourist facilities including hotels and restaurants. A bridge across the river links Mingora with the board will give indication for the location while the railing and the gate will give an

Airport and also with the newly developed Kanju Township. 6.3.8 Saidu Sharif

Saidu Sharif is the administrative capital of Malakand Division. Here is located the Swat Museum, the remains of Butkada stupa, the Wali of Swat palace, the tomb of Akhun of Swat called Saidu Baba and of course, the only five star hotel of the Region. 6.3.9 Gulkada

At Gulkada, 2 kilometers north of Saidu Sharif, probably the most important monastery of the country has been located. It surrounds a big Stupa from where clandestine diggers have in the past many years brought to light some of the most beautiful fragments of Gandhara art. This is now within the precincts of Mingora extension of the town where office complex of the district administration is situated. This name of Gulkada is not more than two decades old. Its older name was Butkadah meaning a place where statues are located. The site is an old place of a village/ town of the Buddhist period and excavations done here during the past by the archaeology department exposed the ruins which are now visible to the visitor. 6.3.10 Swat Museum

Nearby is located a Museum called Swat Museum which houses many valuable collections of the excavations in and around Mingora and the adjoining archaeological sites. These collections are indications of the life style of the people and their beliefs.

When we talk of collections preserved in the Museums here, at Chakdara and even at Peshawar. the provincial metropolis, we are reminded of the sad picture of reckless trade of these valuables going on clandestinely on large scale. Measures are needed to discourage and stop this illegal trade which deprives this region of its valuable heritage which is in another way a brute attempt to misrepresent the course of past history. 6.3.11 Marghozar

This beautiful spot is situated about 12 km towards South-East of Mingora. There is a building of a palace made of white marble and used to be occupied by the Wali's father, namely Abdul Wadood , alias Bacha Sahib. There is an open mosque a spring of very cold water at a lower level than the palace. A parking platform is also available between the mosque and the palace. For several decades the building remained vacant just to remind the rule of the ex-autocrat. Now this has been leased out to become a restaurant-cum-hotel. It has also got the facility of joy rides for the children. Since this is situated at a height of about 4000 ft and has got shaded trees around and also along the approach road, it has wholesome cooling effect on the visitors. 6.3.12 Fizagat

The scenic river bank located a few kilometers from Mingora is a tourist attraction spot throughout the year but more so during the summer months as the cold snow melt water of Swat river affords welcome relief to the visitors who sometimes enjoy a dip in the river.

The site has attraction as a picnic spot in all seasons of the year. The back history of this attractive name is however very gruesome. This site used to be called Qazaghat previously as condemned prisoners of the then Swat State were executed here by firing squads of the ex-ruler Bacha Sahib, Abdul Wadood by name and father of the ex- Wali. Shariat Laws were practiced under the patronage of Bacha Sahib Abdul Wadood by his appointed Qazis. The implementation of the Islamic Jurisprudence by the then Qazis was according to their own knowledge of Islam and there was no scope of appeal against the verdict. 6.3.13 Miandam

This is situated midway between Mingora and Khwazakhela. It has got an attractive commanding view over the narrow valley at the end of which it is situated. A PTDC hotel has sometime back been established which offers facilities to the tourists for stay. There is yet another Rest House nearby. The connecting road between the two has been proposed to be black topped at a cost of R: 2.0 million. A provision of 0.5 million is made for 1995-96 while R: 1.5 million are proposed to be spent in 1996-97. 6.3.14 Malam Jaba

Malam Jabba is a Ski-cum-summer Tourist Resort, 35 kilometers from Saidu Sharif (an hour long drive) where a beautiful white palatial building of a newly built hotel welcomes the tourists. There are two kinds of lift chairs. One for reaching the hill top and the other which takes us to the skiing area during the winters. The resort is still not

fully

developed.

A

luxurious

hotel

accommodation

has

been

constructed with the cooperation of Austrian Govt. Situated at a height about 6,500 ft it has an attraction for the tourists to welcome them. The tourists are however visiting the site infrequently . There could be a few reasons for the same. Lack of publicity, uneasy and uncomfortable access road and lack of adequate security measures could be the possible reasons. 6.3.15 Manglor

This is a populous village situated on the left bank of Swat River between Mingora and Khwazakhela. It is an important village historically as it has remained the seat of rule during the Mughals and even before that. 6.3.16 Madyan and Yakh Kandao

This is located on the main Mingora Kalam Road. By now it has a few good hotels to accommodate tourists. From the bridge over Swat river right in the bazaar, splashing turbulent water downstream and the winding river upstream with green hills on the north and west present an enchanting scenery. One is always tempted to have a stay of at least a day or two if not more, to enjoy the view and bulling water of Swat River.

6.3.17

Bahrain

It too is situated on the main Mingora-Kalam Road, just short of Kalam.

Here the gushing and splashing crystal clear cold water of two tributaries meet which presents an absorbing moment to the mind and the eyes. The swift movement of beautiful trout fish to and for is an added attraction. 6.3.18 Kalam

Kalam (6,800 feet above sea level) is about 110 kilometers (65 miles) north of Mingora and is the highest city in the Swat valley. A wooden bridge links the city parts across the river. On all sides there are snowcovered peaks of the Hindu Kush range, dense forests of fir, pine, deodar and wild flowers. This is the terminus of the main glen starting somewhere from Khwazakhela, as the valley here splits into two, one towards Ushoo and the other towards Athrore. The river bed here slightly wider, forms two small islands which further adds to the beauty of the place as tourists reach the island with picnic arrangements, photography and angling. It is to remind that trout fish here is one of the greatest attraction, which is available under licensed reel and rod. 6.3.19 Usho

Beyond Kalam on right is a beautiful valley by the name of Usho. Traversing the road through thick grooves of pine trees, one is enchanted by the attractive avenues of the greenery and the mild ascent. Small hamlets on either side add to the beauty, away from humdrum life of cities and vehicular noise. The valley is long enough to touch more and still more scenic sites ahead. 6.3.20 Matiltan

Matiltan is the first small habitation in the Usho valley and akin to the greenery just traversed. A tributary of Swat river with its constant rumbling sound and shining snow melt water presents a perpetual sources of joy to the mind. Angling for trout here is an astonishing pastime. 6.3.21 Mahudand Lake

From Kalam, Mahodand Lake is 30 kilometers and to visit the lake one has to hire a jeep. About 10 kilometers before the lake, there is a fascinating waterfall. It is the most beautiful and biggest fall in this area. En route to Mahudand one comes across two or at least one glaciers, which may pose an obstacle for onward journey. 6.3.22 Athrore

The left of Kalam valley upstream leads to Athrore. The shingle road runs all along the tributary of Swat river for 24 kilometers. This tributary is in fact the major affluent of the two and because of comparatively steeper slope presents an awe when this water strikes against very high rocks. Up and up as we approach Athrore proper, the valley becomes wider and wider. Green fields of potatoes and corns present a true natural picture of village life undisturbed by the artificial human innovations. Goats grazing on the slopes, small children cutting grass along the terraced field while singing in their dialects is a common scene. 6.3.23 Kandolo Dand

This is a beautiful lake in the extreme end of Athrore valley, so far seen and visited by very limited number of tourists. The lake is one and half kilometer long and one kilometer wide. Its beauty lies in its location at a very high altitude and surrounded by the high mountains. One distinct feature of this lake is that its water does not flow directly from the lake itself. Unlike Saiful Muluk Lake in Kaghan, water flows from the toe of the hill. This is a unique specialty gifted by God. This specialty is an indication to the fact that it will survive many vagaries of climatic changes if and when they happen in the near or distant future. To reach the lake one has to take a road passing Athrore bazaar. Gabral is the terminus of the road beyond which one has to walk on foot. Gabral is accessible through jeep with about 1 hour run while the journey on foot takes about 2 hours with 2 to 3 times rest on the climb. For about 1 hour enjoys the fast gushing stream flowing downhill while striving to go up. You reach a forest Rest House beautifully located in the thick groove of trees all around it. Up you go and reach the top, you see the beautiful lake surrounded by high hills and blue sky in the background. The reflection of the trees in the crystal clear water presents a captivating scene. The lake is said to be about 100 feet deep. Kandalo Dand means a lake of bowls. One interpretation is that it is exactly a bowl in shape, some what oval. The other is legendary tale that a golden bowl used to float on the surface but disappeared later on for unknown reasons. Whatever the meaning the lake is not less than a golden bowl by all means. 6.3.24 Gabral

Gabral is the next beautiful spot in the Athrore valley. This is a

beautiful resort of the valley 8 kilometers ahead in the same direction. 6.3.25 Khawazakhela

Khwazakhela, about 30 kilometers (20 miles) from Mingora on the bank of the Swat River, is the largest commercial centre in this part of the valley. The main street is worth exploring for silver tribal jewellery, locally woven and embroidered fabrics, carved woodwork, semiprecious stones and ancient coins. The bridge across the Swat River at Khwazakhela leads to a metalled road that follows the river all the way down to Chakdara. One road on the north westerly direction leads to Besham and the Karakuram Highway. 6.3.26 Kabal

Kabal is an attractive site located on the north of Mingora town across river Swat in relatively plain land at the foot of hill range. Nearby is the airport connecting Swat with the rest of the country. Kabal is a Golfers Paradise. An eighteen-holes golf course is open all the year round and a tourist can play by paying the nominal government fee. A Rest House and a large fruit orchard are also located here. A modern hotel is planned to be constructed here in the coming years which will provide facilities of stay for tourists which is presently lacking as the Rest House is not available to visitors.

6.4

SHANGLA DISTRICT

Shangla is the smallest among all the districts of Malakand. It has the following potential sites for tourism activity (Fig.4-D). 6.4.1 Shangla Top

It is a mountain top with a great deal to natural beauty. Being located in relatively higher altitude it remain covered with snow during winter. The main Shangla road actually passes from the top. Most travellers stop here for a short time . The place is presently without any facility or amenity. 6.4.2 Besham Besham is an important settlement located at the junction of roads with the Karakuram Highway. A number of tourist facilities including hotels, motels and restaurants are already offering a wide range of services.

Fig. 4-D

6.5 LOWER & UPPER DIR DISTRICTSThe sites and locations having potential for tourism activities in Dir are shown in Fig 4-E and described below. 6.5.1 Churchill Picket This is situated at the hill top on the left of Chakdara bridge on river Swat. The bridge separates Dir from Malakand Agency . The Churchill Picket is named after Sir Winston Churchill the British Prime Minister during the World War and was built in 1895. He participated in the Malakand Operation in 1895 as a lieutenant. At the base of the Churchill picket is the excavated site of Dam kot, which further increases historic importance of the locality. The picket was also visited by Queen Elizabeth in 1961 when she visited Swat on the invitation of then President of Pakistan Field Marshal Ayub Khan. The site is easily accessible. All facilities such as police post, bank, dispensary and shopping area exist nearby . A recently constructed motel by PTDC is a new addition to the facilities. This is situated in between Batkhela and Chakdara. 6.5.2 Chakpat or Chatpat At hardly two kilometers from the Chakdara bridge on the north westerly direction, half a km from the main Chakdara-Dir road a village by the above name is situated. This small but historic village is located at the foot of the hill, close to which is a mound. Archaeologists detected signs of old relics of Buddhism and excavated Muhammad

the area. As per their expectations and initial visible signs, they were able to find valuable statues, which are now adorning the show eases of the Chakdara museum. The site is significant from historic and archaeological stand point and is of interest to the tourists .

Fig 4-E

6.5.3 Chakdara Museum The museum is situated on the main Chakdara - Dir road, at a distance of one and a half Km from the Chakdara bridge. It is 135 Km away from Peshawar and 40 Km from Saidu Sharif-Swat. The collection in the Museum comprises of items from the finds of excavations around in the area. The Adamzai plain where the museum is situated and the adjoining Talash plain are rich in archaeological sites, mostly exploited by the archeology department of the Peshawar University. The collection in the Museum is a true representation of the old civilization of the then Buddhist era. 6.5.4 Ouch Located about 7 Kilometers from Chakdara and one a half km from the main road on the right side is a village called Ouch. This is the largest settlement in lower Dir District and is important from many angles. It has got sweet springs, quite a few in number, which not only satisfy the needs for drinking but also cater to a good extent for irrigation. Historically, these springs have been mentioned by Babar, the Mughal king, who passed through this village and crossed over to Swat. There are also valuable relics, some of which (the hair) are reported to belong to the Holy Prophet (PBUH). These have been housed in a portion of the mosque called Noor Mahal. Every year in the Islamic month of Rabiul Awal their display is a part of the holy function of Milad. 6.5.5 Laram Sar

This is a peak of the mountain called Laram (Scorpion). The reason behind this name is not fully known. The peak is 6,000 feet high with fresh cold air throughout the year. It is located on a bye-pass road from Chakdara-Dir road via village Ouch. The site is ideal for a tourist resort but is lacking in certain amenities like hotel accommodation and comfortable access road. The existing road is extremely rough. Potentially the site has bright chances of improvement to attain a reputation as tourist attraction. An encouraging development is the proposed black topping of this road. The pace of work however ,is extremely slow and needs to be accelerated by allocating more funds. The site was recently visited by the STC management and a consensus was found regarding the development of the site. 6.5.6 Barcharai Top This is a hill top named as such and is situated at a distance of 8 Km from Chakdara on left side of Chakdara Dir road. The top is 5700 feet high and the hill abounds in wild life. There is no access road except approach by foot. All other facilities exist in the nearby settlement of Ouch and Talash. The site can be developed into an attractive and healthy tourist resort by constructing a jeepable road and suitable accommodation for overnight stay. 6.5.7 Sheringal Valley This valley is located in the interior of Dir on a diversion road taking off 8 Km short of Dir, on the right of Chakdara - Dir road. It has a 40 Km long stretch with beautiful landscape, walnut trees on these slopes on the hills and green terraced fields, which are irrigated by a tributary of Panjkora river flowing all along the road in the valley. The

road is fairly motorable. Important villages are Sharingal are Thai, Lamothani and Kumrat which are located along this stretch. The last one is the terminus. The snow melt water flowing in the river as well as in the streams even during summer is as cold as snow itself. The road was developed when the sawing industry of timber complex was being established. No tourist facility exists presently but the valley is potentially rich for such as industry. Suitable huts for overnight stay should be built at Thai, Lamothai and Kumrat. 6.5.8 6.5.9 6.5.10 6.5.11 These Karo Dara Toremang Dara valleys of the interior Upper Dir district are rich in Nehag Dara Osherai Dara

greenery of all sorts from Walnuts, almonds terraced

and wild berries. The

fields covered with green paddy fields present fascinating

scene during July and August. The water falls with silver shining water are added attraction. The last hill on Osherai Dara has a beautiful natural lake at the top equal to the size of Saiful Muluk Lake in Kaghan Valley. Access road to the top is necessity. Each valley needs at least one tourist facility to encourage visitors. 6.5.12 Barawal Valley

This valley starts on the left from 8 Km short of Dir town and is about 20 Km in length. Barawal is at the end of this stretch with picturesque landscape, green walnut trees. Iron ore is extracted by the locals since time immemorial. It is worth mentioning that all the weaponry of the ex-ruler of Dir called Nawab was manufactured from this ore, and the

canon guns thus manufactured were also used in Kashmir Jehad in 1947. The gunners of Nawab were expert marksmen. No tourists activity presently exists in the area. Lack of interest in the environment by the authorities is resulting in thinning of greenery which must denudation. 6.5.13 Benshahi be checked, to save this attractive valley from

About 6 Km north of Summer Bagh in Jandool area of Dir is the hill called by this name. This is part of the boundary of Afghanistan. The hill is about 7000 feet high with strong winds blowing all the year around. For summer months it is an ideal place to stay. On other side of the valley is a plateau as green as a meadow. Tourist resorts are needed to attract tourists to this beautiful hill top. The near settlements is Samar Bagh where all the infrastructure facilities are available. 6.5.14 Timargarah

This is the district headquarter of Lower Dir and is the junction for Dir and Jandool. It is a historic site situated on the bank of River Panjkora. Archaeological excavations have proved historical importance of this place. All facilities exist here except those as tourist resort. Since this is an important town in Dir and is situated on the Chitral - Kafiristan route, the necessary amenities become all the more vital. 6.5.15 Dir/Panakot

Dir used to be the headquarter of the ruler - Nawab. Panakot with

7000 ft height enjoys its attraction during summer which was the residential place of the Nawab. PTDC has recently completed a road side facility here. 6.5.16 Lowari Top

This is a hill top 10000 ft high and is a natural boundary between Upper DIR district and Chitral district. Because of its height it is snow covered for about six months during the year, and is a handicap in the development activities in Chitral. Attempts to have a tunnel across this snow covered mountain during the past could not succeed mostly because of financial constraints. If and when a tunnel is drilled and safe passage to Chitral made possible the year round, the distract would develop. When the snow melts and the road between Dir and Chitral is passable, the ascent and descent on this hill present a feat of motoring. Quite a few tourists cannot face the descent and prefer to shut their eyes while others enjoy this thrill. When the top and the approaches to the top are snow covered during the winter months, a journey by air presents still more a thrilling joy when the snow all round is viewed from the plane. 6.6 CHITRAL

Chitral is the farthest district of Pakistan, which is surrounded by some of the highest mountain ranges of the world. Its is mainly accessible by road through Lowari Pass in the south, which remains closed for almost six months of t