Lyman Filament Extruder v4.1 Manual

DESKTOP FILAMENT EXTRUDING SYSTEM March 1, 2014

By:

Hugh M. Lyman, Jr.

Lyman Filament Extruder V4.1 is an open source product licensed under

http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/

Lyman Filament Extruder V4 Video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4F3e6K5Hxk

CONSTRUCTION MANUAL

LYMAN FILAMENT EXTRUDER V4.1

No Liability is accepted for errors, omissions and the use of this manual. Users use it at their

own risk. Comments with errors and omissions will be accepted by email only.

[email protected]

Thanks

Page 1

http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4F3e6K5Hxk

The LYMAN FILAMENT EXTRUDER V4.1 is a complete

assembly for desktop filament extruding. It can extrude 1.75mm

or 3mm diameter filament for desktop 3D Printers. Once setup

it can be left unattended and in about 5 hours it will fill a (1) kg

spool of filament.

Watch the video on YouTube for the setup procedure.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=ofF3eK5Hxk

Figure 1 shows the last Version 4.1. All printed parts are from

filament extruded with Version 4. Figure 2 shows Version 4,

with all printed parts from filament extruded with Version 3.

3mm verse 1.75mm Filament:

If the diameter range of 1.75mm is (+/-) 0.10mm, that is 11.4%

variation.

If the diameter range of 3mm is (+/-) 0.10mm, that is 6.7%

variation.

Therefore, that is why I prefer the 3mm diameter filament.

Also, the 3mm filament extrudes faster than the 1.75mm fila-

ment, (not in inches per minute but in pounds per minute).

CONSTRUCTION COMMENTS

The following is an explanation of each part shown on sheets

A04 through A14. All green colored parts in the drawings are

3D printed. All white parts in photos are printed, Figures 1 &

2.

The theory of the design is that as the Extruder Assembly ex-

trudes filament, the Puller Assembly stretches it to the desired

diameter. Therefore the hole in the Extruder Nozzle is 1.5 (+/-)

the desired diameter. To complete the system is the Spool Fila-

ment winding. The level wind assembly is optional extruding

3mm filament..

I suggest 3D printing all the printed parts first and assembling

the sub assemblies before mounting any of them to the Base

Plate. Do this why you wait for part shipments to arrive.

What I am showing is how I constructed the extruder. I am

sure there are better ways and hopefully my notes will help.

STARTING ON SHEET A04

The extruder is made up of (9) sub assemblies.

A. The base plate, sheet A05. the length is not critical. Mine

is 46 long but 43 will work with less distance between

the Puller Rollers (D) and the Level Wind Assembly (J).

B. The Electronic Box (sheet A06) holds all the electronics.

C. The Extruder Assembly is not attached to the Base Plate. It

sits over the Hopper Position Block (G) for easy exchange.

D. The Puller Motor Assembly, sheet A08. Position it about

11 from the Extruder nozzle.

E. Filament Fan Assembly.

F. Spool Winder Assembly.

G. Hopper Position Block

H. Extruder Motor Fan Assembly.

J. Level Wind Assembly.

Figure 1Full Assembly, Version 4.1

All printed parts

Figure 2, Full Assembly, Version 4

Wood Electric Box & Spool Holder

Page 2

Figure 5 Extruder Assembly

SHEET A05: BASE PANEL

No comment

SHEET A06: ELECTRONIC BOX

Parts: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6: All Panels

The Electronic Box shown is made of printed parts. It is about

11 wide, 9 tall and 5 deep. Bigger is OK, but small may be a

little tight for mounting all the electronics. The face, bottom and

sides are attached using SCIGRIP 2354 solvent cement.

All the electronics except the Sabertooth, Kangaroo and power

cord plug-in are mounted on the back side of the face panel.

Stand offs are printed on the inside of the face panel and the left

side panel for mounting the terminal board, Sabertooth and SSR.

SHEET A07: EXTRUDER SUB-ASSEMBLY

Part 1, Brass Nozzle.

I used a plain solid 1/2 brass plug I got at the local Fastenal

Store.

The hole was drilled in a drill press, held perpendicular to the

face. The inside was countersunk in about 3/16. On the exit

side I used the countersink in my hand and lightly turned it a

few revolutions to make sure there were no burrs at the exit of

the filament hole, which will cause imperfections in filament.

Part 2, Heat Band.

The heat band is a 1 ID 110V I purchased from Zoro Tools. It

is the 2 length. It fits over the 1/2 pipe coupler. As the pipe

coupler is a little over 1 OD the band needs to be pride open

slightly to fit. The 1 long heat band will also work.

Part 3, 1/2 Black Iron Coupler.

The coupler should be 2 long with an OD of 1.0625diameter.

Check this as not all couplers are the same. This I purchased at

Fastenal.

Part 4, 4 Black Iron Nipple.

The nipple will have a weld joint on the inside. I used a dremel

with the flex extension that would fit inside the nipple and with

a grinding wheel attachment I smoothed the weld as much as it

would. Note that it is good to clean the inside of the nipple and

the coupler with solvent for cleaner filament at startup. Two

small holes are drilled at 1 from the flange for air escape.

Part 5, Hex Nut.

Use a nylock nut here. They are not over tightened, in fact

somewhat loose. I snug them up just so no pellets can exit.

They are then lightly tightened when there is no wobbling of

the nozzle.

Figure 6 Extruder Hopper

Note the pellets encompassing all around the

auger bit

Figure 3 - Electronics Box

Figure 4 - Electronics Box Back & Top

attached

Parts 7, 8 & 9: Screws & Inserts

No comment

Page 3

Part 7, 5/8 Auger Bit

The Auger Bit used here is an Irwin 5/8 x 17 long that I pur-

chased from McMaster Carr. It tapers from the auger to the shaft,

which is said to be 3/8. Not true, it is over that enough that I had

to use a 7/16 washer and thrust bearing. The washer snug's up at

the taper of the shaft. Before cutting the auger to length assemble

all the other extruder components and then measure both the dis-

tance to the nozzle and the distance to the flex coupler Part 15, A07.

the end of the auger from the entry of the nozzle to be about 1/4.

Part 8, Oak Insulating Block.

The block can be between 3/8 to 1/2. This must be considered in

the length of the auger bit. Figure 8. I had to add a spacer as my

auger bit was about 1/8 to long. The bolt holes are oversized.

Part 9, Cap Screws.

No comment

Part 10, MDF Board Position Block.

Before attaching the Block, layout on the base plate all the sub-

assemblies. The Extruder Nozzle should be about 1/4 from the

wind guard of the Filament Fan Assembly. The Nozzle end (exit)

should be10 to 11 from the Puller Roller Assembly. The distance

from the Puller Roller Assembly to the Level Wind Assembly is not

critical. The reason for the block is to hold the Extruder in place so

that the Extruder can be lifted up and turned to empty pellets or

exchange extruders for different colors.

Part 11, #6 x 3/4 PHSMS

No comment

Part 12, Printed Hopper & Motor Mount.

This is tough. I have printed over a dozen of these. The problem I

have is warping. I print on a piece of tempered glass that I coated

with a sugar water solution. Still I get some warping. The warping

causes the three holes in the part to become out of alignment. My

parts stick so well to the glass plate that I have actually pulled off

slivers of glass trying to remove a part before the glass cooled. So

here is what I did: Separated the part into three pieces, the hopper

part, the motor part and the circular top part. This produced less

warping of each part. Then I lined up the holes in the hopper part

with the motor part and attached them together with SCIGRIP 2354

ABS solvent cement. Worked great. But, there probably is a better

design.

Part 13, Gear Motor with Encoder.

The motor I use is from SuperRobotics. It has a torque rating of

about 30 kg/cm. As it got hot, I added the Motor Fan Assembly

and it has worked fine for over 30 spools of filament. The motor

must have an encoder to function with the motor on the Puller

Roller

Figure 8 - Oak Insulating Block

Figure 9 - Printer Hopper Parts

Figure 10 - 3 Hopper Parts Assembled

Part 6, 3/8 thick Aluminum Flange.

The pipe nipple when threaded into the flange needs to be flush to

the inside edge of the flange and needs no sealant. The one

shown in Figure 7 is actually 1/2 and was difficult to get the nip-

ple end flush. I used no sealant on the coupler or the nozzle.

Shown is my flange cut from a round flange I got at McMaster

Carr and is what is shown in the BOM.

Figure 7 - Aluminum Flange

Page 4

PART 14A & B, Flexible Shaft Coupler

You can use any coupler you want, but this is economical as it

only weights 0.5 oz. Both parts are the same, except each has a

different size D shaped hole for the different size shafts. After

printing, the parts are dipped in SCIGRIP 2354 ABS solvent ce-

ment. These are printed with 100% infill. I think they are tougher

than the rubber in other couplers.

PART 15 & 16: Cap Screws & Washers

No comment

PART 17: Flanged 3/8 Brass Bushing

The ID of this bushing may need reaming as the auger shaft may

be a slight amount oversize.

PART 18: Thrust Bearing 7/16 ID

Again as the shaft is oversized I used the 7/16ID bearing and it

works fine.

PART 19: Flat 7/16 Washer

As the auger shaft tapers up to 5/8 this washer holds the auger

bit in place. When you assemble the parts make sure that the

auger is pushed back against the bushing and allow about 1/4

between the auger shaft and the motor shaft.

PART 20: 5/8 Brass Bushing

The end should be snug against the Oak Block.

PART 21: Type K Thermocouple

As the lead is long it gets wrapped up inside the electronic box.

The sensor is taped to the 1/2 iron coupler with kapton tape.

Position the heat band so the sensor is in the heat band break.. I

did not use the clamp that comes with the heat band, just make

sure it is tight. Twist the lugs 90 degrees to fit to the PID.

Figure 11: Flexible Coupler

Figure 12: Washer, Thrust Bearing, Bushing

Figure 13: Brass Bushing at Hopper Front

Figure 14: Thermocouple at hot end

Part 22: Printed Funnel

I like it because it holds enough pellets to fill a spool. The hop-

per is configured with a round entry so that a 3 shipping tube

can be used in place of the funnel.

Page 5

SHEET A08: PULLER ROLLER ASSEMBLY

PART 1: Puller Roller Motor

This motor I used is the same as the extruder motor. A smaller motor

can be used if it has an encoder. However, both motors must be tuned

with DeScribe software available from Dimension Engineering. The

tuned file I have is available for download and should work with any

two of these like motors. The file is uploaded to the Kangaroo.

PART 2, 3, 4, 8 & 14: Screws, Nuts & Bolts

No comment

PART 5: Printed Motor & Roller Base

The stl file for this part has supports drawn with it so support does not

need adding when sliced. It will need some cleaning up. There are two

through holes in it that are in alignment with the motor attachment

holes. This is so a long Allen wrench can fit through them for easy

mounting of the motor. I used only two attachment bolts for this mo-

tor.. The holes for the bushings and motor may need dressing.

PARTS 6 & 7: Idler & Drive Shafts

These are 3/8 diameter to match the rollers ID dimension. See sheet

P07 for dimensions.

PART 9: Flanged Brass 3/8 ID Bushings

When assembling these for the drive shaft make sure they are in align-

ment so the shaft turns freely. They are the same as the flanged bush-

ing in the hopper base.

PART 10: idler Roller Mount Bracket

Here I did not use a bushing. I dressed the holes for a smooth fit of the

3/8shaft and it seems to work well. In V3 I used ball bearings for

both the drive and idler shafts. You may wish to do he so and if so the

holes with have to be enlarged or you can design and print you own.

PART 11: Urethane 35A Rollers

Note they are opposite each other when assembled.

PART 12: Flexible Shaft Coupler

These are the same as used on the extruder motor. If you use a smaller

puller motor you will need to design your own and size the D hole to

the motor shaft.

PART 13: Compression Spring

No comment

Figure 15: Puller & Extruder Motor

Figure 16: Puller Roller Assembly

Page 6

SHEET A09: SPOOL WIND UP ASSEMBLY

Part: Mini Gear Motor

This is what I had so I used it. It is a 12V motor and at 24V it ran

way to fast. So, I added a 220 ohm resistor to the (+) lead. I found

this alternate 24V motor on eBay and ordered one replace it. If the

holes in the Motor Arm do not fit I will just redesign the Arm.

Extruding 3mm filament required add weight to the motor so it would

apply sufficient friction to turn the spool. I used some magnetic tape I

had and wrapped it around the motor. 1.75mm filament did not re-

quire any added weight. Figure 17: Mini Gear Motor 12V 70 RPM

Figure 18 Alt Gear Motor 24V 30 RPM

Figure 20: Spool Wind Up Assembly

Parts 2, 3, 4, 5,7 & 12: Nuts, Washers, Bolts & Screws

No comment

Part 6: Motor Arm

The motor arm is designed for the motor I used. A different motor

may need a redesign of the arm.

Part 8: Latex Tubing

The latex tube is the friction grip that turns the spool. It fits snug over

part 18, the shaft cog. This will wear out in time and has to be re-

placed. After a year I still have some left of the 12 I purchase. This

should be cleaned off after each spool extruded.

Parts 9, 10 & 11 Spool Holder Sides & Bottom

These are all printed parts and attached together using SCIGRIP

ABS 2354 solvent cement. There are two slots in the bottom plate

as they allow for some side to side adjustment.

Parts 12: Screws

No comment

Part 13: Shaft

Again, I used what I had. Other diameters and other material can be

used. A wood dowel may work also.

Figure 19: Latex Tube

Page 7

Part 14: Spool Collars

The collars are printed with a lip as they are a pulley for driving the

level wind assembly. The holes are undersized and must be drilled

out to the shaft diameter, but need to fit tight. I used an 8mm shaft

and drill the holes out with an 8mm drill bit. For the assembly all

the parts are glued together with ABS solvent cement. I now have

17 spools made up and 9 are filled with filament.

Part: 15 & 16, Spool Discs

3D printed discs are 8 diameter. Part 15 disc core is 3 diameter.

The lip on Part 16 disc fits inside the core of Part 15 disc for easy

alignment for gluing. Using solvent cement the discs are attached.

One collar is pressed onto the shaft. The shaft is then fit in the

spool and the other collarr is pressed on. The collars are also at-

tached to the disc with solvent cement.

Part 17: Motor Shaft Cog

This is printed with a D shaped hole to fit the motor shaft. It is

pressed on. The latex tube fits to the cog so it can be replaced.

Each of my printers have printed brackets to hold a spool. Pull one

off the rack and set it on the printer, it is so easy.

Figure 21: Filament storage rack

Holds 12 spools.

Figure 22, Spool on TAZ printer

Figure 23, Spool on ORD printer

This is my spool system which is unique in its self.

Use your own imagination and design one that fits your

system and equipment. The rubber band around the

shaft keeps the spool from free wheeling.

Page 8

SHEET A10, LEVEL WIND ASSEMBLY

Parts 1, 8 & 9: Worm Gear Components

These are the parts from a Diawa level wind fishing reel. I got them

from Daves Tackle Shop. The part numbers are shown in the BOM.

http://op1.triadinet.com/fishermansworld/nlcatalog.asp?

loc=nlclass.asp&args=dept|P

Part 2: Filament Guide

3D printed. The holes here have to be dressed. It must slide freely

over the worm gear sleeve. The hole for the pawl and 5mm cap

screw is taped part way.

Part 3: Pulley

3D printed. The hole is undersized for dressing to fit the worm gear

shaft.

Part 4: Rubber Band Drive Belt

It is so simple that even I can do it. Simplified Engineering

Part 5: Level Wind Bracket

3D printed. The holes will need dressing for a snug fit of the level

wind sleeve.

Parts 6 & 8: Screws

No Comment

Part 7: Line Guide Pawl

No Comment

Part 9: Worm Gear Bearing

No Comment

SHEET A11, COOLING FANS

Part 1Fans

These are 24V 60mm fans. The filament fan replaces the water cool-

ing system used in Version 3 Extruder. It works just as well and is

less costly and troublesome. As the Extruder motor got too warm to

touch I added a cooling fan toit. I tried a larger gear motor but it had

less rpm and was twice as long and twice a costly.

Parts 2 & 3Fan Brackets

3D printed. Note the filament fan bracket has a windshield to deflect

the wind from the fan away from the nozzle.

Parts 4,5 & 6

No comments

_______________________________________________________

Figure 24, Level Wind Assembly V4

Figure 25, Level Wind Bracket

Figure 26, Extruder Fan Assembly

Page 9

SHEET A12: ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS

See sheet A14 for wiring diagram

Parts 1 & 2: Kangaroo & Sabertooth Motion Controller

Get the manuals from the following links:

http://www.dimensionengineering.com/datasheets/Sabertooth2x12.pdf

http://www.dimensionengineering.com/datasheets/KangarooManual.pdf

The motors must be tuned and uploaded to the Kangaroo. It has two internal pots one for each motor. The Ex-

truder motor also has an external pot connected to the top terminals on the Kangaroo. I have the M2 (puller motor)

pot removed and an external pot wired in its place for easy M2 motor control. The M1 (extruder motor) internal

pot I have set to full speed. The external M1 pot will override the internal pot used for overall speed control.

Part 3: 24V Rechargeable Battery Pack

This is wired in parallel to the 24V power to the Sabertooth. Why, I dont know so dont ask. I made this one with

19 AAA NIMH rechargeable batteries, only because I had them.

Part 5: External M2 Potentiometer

This is a precession 10 turn 10K pot. It controls the speed of the puller motor to control the diameter of the fila-

ment. 1/8 to 1/4 turns makes a difference.

Figure 27, Outside Electronic Box

Sabertooth

Kangaroo

Page 10

Part 6: Rocker Illuminated 24V Switches

I started with 12V illuminated SPST switches as that is what I had and they worked ok, but I had one burn out as

you can see in the video. It now has 24V switches in the new 3D printed box. They control the motors, fans and

spool winder. The switch next to the motor switch controls the battery. I should try a DPST switch in place of two

SPST switches for the motor and battery. Just remember I am a novice in electronics.

Part 7: Master Potentiometer

This is the same as part 3.

Part 8: Rocker Illuminated 110V Switches

One is for turning on the power supply and the other turns on the heat to heat band. Note: If pellets have been

melted in the extruder, do not turn on the motors until the heat is up and stabilized.

Part 9: Circuit Breaker

If you can remember to unplug the 110V cord before tinkering in the box you can omit this. As my old memory is

short and I have forgotten to do it, this is my safe guard, and I have saved many parts several times with it.

Part 10: PID Heat Controller

I am still using the same PID that was in the first version extruder. Mypin TA4. I also have two that dont work.

Part 11: 24V Power Supply

No comment

Figure 28, Inside Electronics Box

Page 11

Parts 12, 13 & 14: Terminal Board

This is a DIY terminal board. It is a printed base panel with strips

of copper PCB glued to it with CA glue. After gluing in the copper

strips I hand drilled the holes through them.

Bare male spade connectors were then soldered in place. Each row

was identified, the top row is 24V (+), the second row 24V(-), the

third row 110V (N) and the bottom row 110V (L). The first spade

in each row was used for the power in. The 24V from the Power

Supply (+) and (-) terminals and the 110V from the (L) and (N)

terminals.

Again, this is the way I did it, keeping in mind that I use what I

have. There always is a better way. Plug & Play

Figure 30, Back side of the Terminal Board Figure 31, Front face of Terminal Board

Figure 29, Terminal Board Parts

Part 15: Cap Screws

No comment

Part 16: Solid State Relay (SSR)

My only comment is to get a good one. It is a real pain if it fails

half way through extruding process.

Figure 23 is a picture of the one I used, obtained on eBay.

Figure 32, Solid State Relay

Part 17: Motor Encoder Pull-up Board

The motors M1 and M2 have encoder pigtails the connect to the

pull-ups. Be careful with these pigtails as they are prone to break

off at the encoder circuit board. I have had to re-solder them several

times only because I am clumsy. Also an extension will be needed

to reach the Kangaroo.

Figure 33, Encoder Pull-up Board

Page 12

Part 18: 110V Power In Socket.

This is optional as you can wire an extension cord direct to the

Power Supply and the Circuit Breaker. If you do so, use a strain

relief on the cord.. I used an old computer cord I had. Pay atten-

tion to the polarity.

Part 4, Knobs for the Pots

These I printed, however you can use any kind. I wanted a bigger

knob for clumsy old hands, thus big with big pointer as the M2

pot is sensitive to 1/8 of a turn.

Figure 34, 110V Socket

Figure 35, Pot Knob

SHEET A13, - SECTION VIEW OF EXTRUDER ASSEMBLY

This solid model drawing was drawn to show all the parts as they are

combined. One dimension is shown that may or may not be critical, the

distance of the end of the auger to the beginning of the nozzle. It is

shown as 1/4 (6.3mm). In the original version (1 & 2) of my extruder

the end of the auger was at the beginning of the 1/2 NPT coupler which

would have been about 1.5 from the nozzle. I have now made 6 ex-

truder assemblies for Versions 3, 4 & 4.1 with different distances. I

havent detected much difference in the extruded filament.

This is still a work in progress.

SHEET A14, - WIRING DIAGRAM

One missed or bad connection and nothing works. One change I would

do is change the color of the 110V Load wire from black to some other

color not used, so it is not confused with the black 24V wires.

A wiring harness extension from the motor encoders to the pull-up

boards has to be made. It is a good idea to use the same color wires as

the encoder leads, through to the Kangaroo connectors pins. There are

five connector pins on the Kangaroo and only 4 are used. It is the pin

next to the GND pin, marked as the I (index) pin.

Make sure you set the dip switches on both the Saberbtooth and Kanga-

roo as shown in the diagram. Dip switch 1 on the Kangaroo needs to be

turned off when tuning with DeScribe.

Have Fun.

Page 13

Part#Dw

g#DESCRIPTIO

NQTY

UNIT

UnitEstPrice

TotalEstPrice

SUPPLIERPART#

SUPPLIER

NOTES:Thesesuppliersareonlysuggestionsandbetterpricing

maybefoundelsew

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LYMAN

FILAMEN

TEXTRUDERV4.1(sortedbyD

wg#)

Page 38

Part#Dw

g#DESCRIPTIO

NQTY

UNIT

UnitEstPrice

TotalEstPrice

SUPPLIERPART#

SUPPLIER


maybefoundelsew

here

BOM

LYMAN

FILAMEN


wg#)

20A07

BushingBrass5/8"ID1

EA$1.24

1.246391K241

McM

asterCarr

21A07

ThermocoupleTypeK

1EA

$1.241.24

tinxiclotheseBay

22A07

ABSFilamentFunnel

6OZ

$1.438.58

QTYestim

ated

1A08

GearM

otorw/Encoder

2EA

$65.39130.78

TD044013SuperDrollRobotics

2A08

HexN

utM3

2EA

$0.050.10

11101213Fastenal

3A08

WasherFlatM

32

EA$0.02

0.0440352

Fastenal

4A08

CapScrewM

4x14mm

2EA

$0.200.40

1139518Fastenal

5A08

ABSFilamentDriveRollerM

tBase14

OZ

$1.4320.02

Extrudedmyow

nSelf

QTYestim

ated

6A08

ShaftSteel3/8"x3.75"1

EA$1.00

1.008920K135

McM

asterCarr

7A08

ShaftSteel3/8"x4.5"1

EA$1.00

1.008920K135

McM

asterCarr

8A08

ScrewPH

SM#6x1/2"

4EA

$0.040.16

TrueValueH ardware

9A08

BushingBrassFlanged3/8"ID2

EA$0.70

1.406338K414

McM

asterCarr

10A08

ABSFilamentIdlerRollerM

tBracket3.2

OZ

$1.434.58

Extrudedmyow

nSelf

QTYestim

ated

11A08

UrethaneDriveRollers

2EA

$27.1654.32

2475K61McM

asterCarr

12A08

ABSFilamentCouplerFlexible

0.5OZ

$1.430.72

Extrudedmyow

nSelf

QTYestim

ated

13A08

Spring1/2"x1"1

EA$1.50

1.50

TrueValueHardw

areCom

pressiontype

14A08

CapScrewM

3x20mm

2EA

$0.280.56

1139507Fastenal

1A09

MiniG

earMotor

1EA

$10.0010.00

hjb0805eBay

This12Vsoneeda220ohmresistorinline

0A09

Resistor220ohms

1EA

$0.500.50

PartsE xpressnotshow

nondrawing

2A09

ScrewCapM

3x10mm

2EA

$0.120.23

11103297Fastenal

3A09

NutH

exM4N

yLok4

EA$0.11

0.4440147

Fastenal

4A09

WasherFlatM

42

EA$0.03

0.0640353

Fastenal

5A09

CapScrewM

4x25mm

1EA

$0.180.18

11103314Fastenal

6A09

ABSFilamentM

otorArm0.6

OZ

$1.430.86

Extrudedmyow

nSelf

QTYestim

ated

7A09

WasherFlatM

32

EA$0.02

0.0440352

Fastenal

8A09

LatexTube1/2"ID1

LOT

$1.001.00

searchtheinternet

9A09

ABSFilamentSpoolH

olderLgSide0.6

OZ

$1.430.86

Extrudedmyow

nSelf

QTYestim

ated

10A09

ABSFilamentSpoolH

olderSmSide

0.6OZ

$1.430.86

Extrudedmyow

nSelf

QTYestim

ated

11A09

ABSFilamentSpoolH

olderBottom0.6

OZ

$1.430.86

Extrudedmyow

nSelf

QTYestim

ated

12A09

ScrewPH

SM#6x1/2"

2EA

$0.040.08

TrueValueHardw

are

Page 39

Part#Dw

g#DESCRIPTIO

NQTY

UNIT

UnitEstPrice

TotalEstPrice

SUPPLIERPART#

SUPPLIER


maybefoundelsew

here

BOM

LYMAN

FILAMEN


wg#)

13A09

Shaft6"long1

EA$0.00

0.00Usew

hatyougot8mm,10m

m,3/8"

14A09

ABSFilamentSpoolCollar2ea

0.23OZ

$1.430.33

Extrudedmyow

nSelf

QTYestim

ated

15A09

ABSFilamentSpoolDiscLg

4OZ

$1.435.72

Extrudedmyow

nSelf

QTYestim

ated

16A09

ABSFilamentSpoolDiscSm

3

OZ

$1.434.29

Extrudedmyow

nSelf

QTYestim

ated

17A09

ABSFilamentM

otorShaftCog0.8

OZ

$1.431.14

Extrudedmyow

nSelf

QTYestim

ated

1A10

Worm

ShaftAssembly

1EA

$10.0010.00

F092601Dave'sTackleParts

$Estimated

2A10

ABSF ilamentFilam

entGuide

0.12OZ

$1.430.17

Extrudedmyow

nSelf

QTYestim

ated

3A10

ABSFilamentSpoolPulley

0.15OZ

$1.430.21

Extrudedmyow

nSelf

QTYestim

ated

4A10

RubberBandBelt1

EA$0.02

0.02

5A10

ABSFilamentLevelW

indBracket2.6

OZ

$1.433.72

Extrudedmyow

nSelf

QTYestim

ated

6A09

ScrewPH

SM#6x1/2"

4EA

$0.040.16

TrueValueHardw

are

7A10

LineGuidePaw

l1

EA$2.00

2.00F092601

Dave'sTackleParts$Estim

ated

8A10

CapScrewM

5x15mm

1EA

$0.300.30

163624Fastenal

9A10

Worm

Bearing2

EA$2.00

4.00E144801

Dave'sTackleParts$Estim

ated

1A11

Fans60mm

24V2

EA$3.95

7.9017194FN

Ma jpa.com

3A11

ABSFilamentExtruderFanBracket

0.8OZ

$1.431.14

Extrudedmyow

nSelf

QTYestim

ated

3A11

ABSFilamentFilam

entFanBracket0.89

OZ

$1.431.27

Extrudedmyow

nSelf

QTYestim

ated

4A11

ScrewPH

SM#6x1/2"

4EA

$0.040.16

TrueValueHardw

are

3A11

NutH

exM4N

yLok4

EA$0.11

0.4440147

Fastenal

5A11

CapScrewM

4x25mm

4EA

$0.180.72

11103314Fastenal

1A12

Sabertooth2X121

EA$80.00

80.00Sabertooth2X12

DimensionEngineering

CheckwithSupplierforadditionalpartsneeded

2A12

Kangaroo1

EA$49.00

49.00Kangaroox2

DimensionEngineering

Orderthisw

iththeexternalM2pot

3A1 2

BatteryPack24V1

EA$46.89

46.89TE088220

SuperDrollRoboticsIm

adeMyow

n

4A12

ABSFilamentPotKnob2ea

0.32OZ

$1.430.46

Extrudedmyow

nSelf

QTYestim

ated

5A12

Potentiometers10K

1EA

$0.000.00

SuperDrollRobotics

Thisonecomesw

ithKangaroo

6A12

SwitchSPST24Villum

inatedBlue4

EA$1.00

4.00hongkongsuperseller

eBayIbought10for$9.88

7A12

Potentiometers10K

1EA

$4.504.50

hongkongsupersellereBay

Ibought2for$8.76

8A12

SwitchSPST110VIllum

inatedRed2

EA$1.25

2.5030184SW

MPJA.com

9A12

CircuitBreaker6amp

1EA

$1.751.75

31314FUMPJA.com

Page 40

Part#Dw

g#DESCRIPTIO

NQTY

UNIT

UnitEstPrice

TotalEstPrice

SUPPLIERPART#

SUPPLIER


maybefoundelsew

here

BOM

LYMAN

FILAMEN


wg#)

10A12

PID1

EA$27.00

27.00mam

bateeBay

11A12

PowerSupply24V

1EA

$18.9518.95

yallstoreeBay

12A11

ABSFilamentTerm

inalBd3

OZ

$1.434.29

Extrudedmyow

nSelf

QTYestim

ated

13A12

MaleSpadeConnectorbare

16EA

$0.101.60

Priceestimated

14A12

PCBCopperStrips(4x6)1

EA$5.00

5.00PBC46

AllElectronics.com

15A12

CapScrewM

3x6mm

10EA

$0.161.60

11103295Fastenal

16A12

SolidStateRelay1

EA$6.00

6.00eBay

17A12

PullUpBoards

2EA

$8.8017.60

TE179000SuperDrollRobotics

18A12

PluginSocket110V1

EA0.00

0A12

HookupKit,notshow

n2

EA$4.50

9.00TE024000

SuperDrollRobotics

0A12

22gahookupwires9colors

9EA

$2.6423.76

AllElectronics.com

Contingencies,TTT,Fi ndings

1LO

T$25.00

25.00estim

atedItem

snotlistedormissed,connectors,zipties,andetc.

SUBTO

TALCOST

843.64

ESTIMATEDFRTIN

@10%

84.36

TOTALCO

ST928.01

Page 41

MANUAL COVER PAGE V4.1CONSTRUCTION COMMENTSExtruder Solid Model V4.1Extruder Detail Part DwgsBOM FILAMENT EXTRUDER V4.1

Documents

Lyman Filament Extruder v4.1 Manual