Lonely Planet Traveller ME - Issue 3, 2013 Mar-Apr

MARCH/APRIL 2013 lonelyplanet.com MIDDLE EAST

GLOBAL TRAVEL INSPIRATION FROM LOC AL EXPERTS

MINI GUIDES Dublin 4Valais 4Venice 4Mauritius 4Istanbul 4Canary Islands

CAMBODIAFrom Angkor Wat to private islands

NEW MEXICOOn the trail of aliens in America

PUBLICATION LICENSED BY IMPZ

DH

S 15

ON THE COVER Romes Colosseum looks as imposing as ever, 1,933 years on

SHORT BREAKS YOU NEED TO BOOK NOW!

Discovering new places

FROM TOP Cambodia hides a whole range of secrets (page 44); discover George Orwell in Barcelona (page 35) and get a taste of Belgrade (page 56)

This months features I believe really sum up what Lonely Planet Traveller is all

about. Giving you the inside track on

popular once in a lifetime trips, such as our

guide to Cambodia (page 42), while

hopefully introducing you to some new

destinations that deserve a visit, such as

Belgrade in Serbia (page 56) and New

Mexico in the USA (page 48). And nally we throw in a huge

heap of suggestions for making the most of your precious time

off, with our cover story on 20 best short breaks feature (page

32). Rather than send you to endless chain hotels, weve

selected some of the more unusual options for four or ve days

away, staying in everything from a treehouse to a houseboat

and come up with some fresh ways to experience some of your

favourite destinations, from local dinner parties in Berlin, to

seeing Tuscany from a Vespa or hitting the waves in Oman as a

kitesurfer. We were inspired in some ways by your photos sent

in for our photography competition, they really did encompass

so much of the world, and told so many stories. The winning

four were hung alongside international photographers at our

rst exhibition, which was a great success. I hope that this issue

is as inspiring to read as it was to put together.

EDITORIALEDITOR Georgina [email protected] / +97150 574 2884

CONTRIBUTORS Matt Bolton, Imogen Lilywhite, Mike MacEacheran, Nicola Monteath, Roger Misun-Gray, Chris Sutteneld, Amanda Tomlinson

ART DIRECTOR Srge Bones

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Lonely Planet Traveller Middle East is published by CPI under licence from BBC Worldwide Limited, Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ.The BBC logo is a trade mark of the British Broadcasting Corporation and Lonely Planet is a trade mark of BBC Worldwide; both are used under licence by Immediate Media Company London Limited.Copyright Immediate Media Company London LimitedAll rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part prohibited without permission.

March/April 2013 Lonely Planet Traveller Middle East 5

COMPETITION WINNERSOur 'A Taste of Travel' competition winners were (from left to right) Enjo Mathew; Sanjay Pradhan; Celso Creer II; Leila Cranswick; Shaikha Al Khayyal

Get more Lonely Planet this month

On the grapevine

BOOKS OUT THIS MONTHMarch sees the release of Australian Language and Culture (Dhs30), Berlin (Dhs84), British Language and Culture (Dhs30), The Cities Book (Mini edition; Dhs90), Czech Phrasebook (Dhs30), Discover Paris (Dhs84), England (Dhs102), France (Dhs108), Germany (Dhs102), Greek Phrasebook (Dhs30), Hebrew Phrasebook (Dhs30), Irish Language and Culture (Dhs30), Munich, Bavaria and the Black Forest (Dhs90), Pocket Amsterdam (Dhs48), Pocket Hong Kong (Dhs48), Polish Phrasebook (Dhs30), Scotland (Dhs84), Spain (Dhs108) and The Travel Book (Mini hardback; Dhs90).

BEST ROAD TRIPS IN EUROPENot all roads lead to Rome some go to Florence, through the Italian Alps and along the coast of Sicily. There are more than 30 trails in Italys Best Trips, a compilation of the most beautiful drives in Italy one of three new guides celebrating holidays by road in Europe (Dhs101).

Each trip begins with an overview of the route, including the best time to go and the highlights to expect. In the two example pages below, the World Heritage Wonders route takes in nine of the biggest-hitters among Italys 47 Unesco-listed marvels, including the medieval centre of Modena and Paduas Orto Botanico the oldest botanical garden in the world.

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Lonely Planet Traveller Middle East March/April 2013 6

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ContentsMarch/April 2013

10 An Omani wedding, boats in Kuwait and Taiwan

17 Richard E Grant talks hotel secrets, James Martin loves American cakes and see the biggest ower

26 MANAMA, BAHRAIN Whizz into town to catch the F1 Grand Prix26 JORDAN Discover the unique ora and fauna27 AGRIGENTO, SICILY Almond trees ower in bloom amongst

the Greek ruins28 MZAAR, LEBANON Hit 80kms per hour on a snowmobile29 VIENNA, AUSTRIA Its wall to wall music from opera to AV29 KUALA LUMPUR, MALAYSIA Turn back the clock at the Hotel Majestic30 BERKSHIRE, UK Learn how to become a proper English gent30 NAPLES, ITALY

Join the Americas Cup otilla

32 ON THE COVER SHORT BREAKS Start booking those days off weve got 20 of the

most unusual and exciting destinations for you42 CAMBODIA Uncover the mysteries of Angkor Wat, Phomn

Penh and Siam Reap 48 NEW MEXICO Go hunting for alien landings in some of

Americas most surreal landscapes56 BELGRADE From battleground to foodie haven, the Serbian

capital is buzzing62 HIGH 5: FUJAIRAH HOTELS We investigate the best hotels for a weekend

escape on the east coast

FEATURESDiscover the world with these in depth

8 EASY TRIPSShort breaks you can book right now

Head to Rome and 19 other must-see destinations p32

Did aliens really land in New Mexico? p48

ON THE COVER


POSTCARDS

OUR PLANETThis months travel news, views and discoveries

Your travel photos and the stories behind them

70 Airplane seat booking apps; house-swap websites and explore the Lake District

75 DRINKING IN DUBLIN Experience the musical craic in Irelands capital77 WINTER IN VALAIS From on-piste action to walking St Bernard dogs,

check out Valais79 EATING IN VENICE Get off the tourist trail and experience Italys

nest gelato and pasta81 COASTAL MAURITUS For a spot of island living, explore the beaches of

this paradise83 HISTORIC ISTANBUL The infamous East meets West city has many a

tale to tell85 CANARY ISLANDS Uncover these dramatic Atlantic islands on foot

and by car

PLUS74 SUBSCRIBE at only Dhs120 for 12 issues, a years

subscription is a steal for all your travelling inspiration

87 WIN A STAY Win a two day culinary journey at Yas Viceroy! Travel the world, one restaurant at a time in Abu Dhabi

88 WIN A TRIP to see the F1 Grand Prix in Bahrain!

Eat, drink and be merry in Belgrade p56

Fujairah fancy p62

Angkor Wat will amaze all your senses p42


MINI GUIDES

ARMCHAIR TRAVELLER

Themed guides to pull out and take with you

Books, apps and websites that will feed your passion for travel

Postcards

P O S T C A R D SWhy not get involved? Wed love to include your best new travel photos (at 300dpi) and the

inspiring stories behind them. Send them with a pic of yourself to [email protected]


P O S T C A R D S

I took this shot of a

graveyard shipwreck at the Old Doha Port in

Kuwait. It is popular because of the historic stories behind the port and the ships themselves. I have found that the best time to take photos here is during winter, when theres a low tide and at sunset. Thats when I took this shot when the winter suns light revealed the best colours and angles of the sad shipwreck.

DOHA PORT, KUWAIT

Shipwrecked

Rizalde L. Cayanan, is a Filipino from Manila, who has been living in Kuwait for the last decade.

This photo was taken

during traditional Omani wedding preparations. The

old man inside the pot is beating out the base with a small hammer before its lled with a dismembered goat carcass. The meat is slowly cooked over an open re for about ve hours. Its served with rice which is literally shovelled on to enormous communal platters with garden spades. Guests squat on carpets and eat with their hands. More than 250 people were fed that night; which is a regular attendance for a small Omani village wedding.

Chris Sutteneld is a Dubai-based Australian freelance writer.

SOHAR, OMAN

Pot boiler

Lonely Planet Traveller Middle East March/April 2013 12 Lonely Planet Traveller Middle East March/April 2013 12 Lonely Planet Traveller Middle East March/April 2013 12

March/April 2013 Lonely Planet Traveller Middle East 13March/April 2013 Lonely Planet Traveller Middle East 13

P O S T C A R D SWhy not get involved? Wed love to include your best new travel photos (at 300dpi) and the

inspiring stories behind them. Send them with a pic of yourself to [email protected]

Lonely Planet Traveller Middle East March/April 2013 14 Lonely Planet Traveller Middle East March/April 2013 14

P O S T C A R D SWhy not get involved? Wed love to include your best new travel photos (at 300dpi) and the inspiring stories behind them. Send them with a pic of yourself to [email protected]

March/April 2013 Lonely Planet Traveller Middle East 15March/April 2013 Lonely Planet Traveller Middle East 1515

It was my rst time to

visit and see the beauty of Taiwan and Heping

(sometimes called Hoping) Island Coastal Park was one on my list, simply because of its unique sandstone formations. Heping Island is just off the coast of Keelung City and it is connected to the mainland by Heping Bridge. Leaving Taipei while it is still dark, we reached the island just in time for sunrise.

HEPING ISLAND, TAIWAN

Island charm

Jose Mari Donaire is a Filipino living in Dubai who loves to spend weekends shooting landscapes

March/April 2013 Lonely Planet Traveller Middle East

13-15 APRILCome to Thailand and celebrate the coolest festival on earth! During 13-15 April the whole country will celebrate the Songkran Festival, represent the traditional Thai New Year, or known as the World Famous Water Festival

SONGKRANFESTIVAL

Tourism Authority of Thailand ( TAT)Dubai & Middle East OfficeP.O. Box 450019 Dubai - U.A.E.Tel. +97143250184-5 Fax. +97143250187E-mail: [email protected] www.tourismthailand-middleeast.org

Amazing Sp

lashing!

Experience

Celebrate S

ongkran Fe

stival in Th

ailand

For more information please visit http://songkran.tourismthailand.org


Our PlanetThis months travel news, views and discoveries

A L O C A L S V I E W

Jim Kirkland, Utah State Paleontologist, USA

I grew up a dinosaur-crazed kid and have now been

working on the Colorado Plateau for almost 40 years. Its here that most of the dinosaurs in Utah reside. Currently, were experiencing an amazing renaissance for dinosaur discoveries in Utah. This was once a very remote part of the planet, with few roads and people. Now that were exploring, were nding a new dinosaur species here every few months. Utah is eroding so weve

discovered dinosaur bones literally emerging from the earth. If you know what youre looking for you can see dinosaur tracks too we nd one most times we go hiking. Here, Im facing a Diabloceratops, a replica of a fossil we found in southern Utah. I named it because the horns reminded me of the devil. Ive also named species after people Ive known and respected. I hope that one day therell be a dinosaur named after me!

Discover more at geology.utah.gov

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IN AUSTRALIA, EASTER EGGS are brought by the Easter bilby not bunny. It stems partly from a story written in the 1960s called Billy The Aussie Easter Bilby and partly because rabbits are seen as a pest. An endangered marsupial, chocolate bilbies are sold around Easter to raise money for their protection.

A N Y T H I N G T O D E C L A R E ?

Richard E Grant Richard E Grant is a broadcaster and actor, famous for his roles in lms such as Withnail and I and Jack & Sarah. He has recently lmed a TV series on the world's luxury hotels

The anonymity of checking in and having carte blanche to do what you like is part of the attraction of hotels. Little wonder that the great and not so good have been caught with their gurative pants down in them. Hotels at a

bank-busting level of luxury such as those I visited for my new series are a total refuge from reality. They induce and seduce punters to full whatever fantasies they might have, with no responsibility other than to pay handsomely for the privilege.

Luxury rooms designed to anticipate things youd only dreamt of are what divide these pleasure palaces from a chain-gang of Premier Inns. State-of-the-art audio and TV equipment. Underoor heating in the bathrooms. Bung a grand piano into your suite alongside acute attention to every detail, and within ve nanoseconds you are seduced into feeling godlike, ready to order up a feast from room service while you sniff the avalanche of fresh roses.

Nowadays you cant burp or break wind without someone Tweeting about it or posting it on Facebook but as long as humans continue to breathe, our appetite for hanky panky remains the same. Hence The Standard Hotel in the Meatpacking District of Manhattan, where your room is an exposed, oor-to-high-ceiling clear-glass box, so

Why scandal checks in at luxury hotels

that punters can perform their most private of passions in public. Its unofcial motto might be: Private is the new public.

The absence of a dress code in many luxury hotels makes for an outward show of democracy, which is mightily welcome. Someone suggested that ever since Bill Gates became a billionaire in trainers, the notion of clothing being a barometer of wealth went the way of the wing collar. The result is that its almost impossible to discern the depth of a guests credit rating according to their clothes.

Of all the hotels I visited, the legendary Chelsea Hotel in Manhattan is probably the epicentre of hotel scandal artists, actors, musicians and writers down the decades have magnetically crossed its Welcome mat knowing that the usual rulebook of etiquette and good behaviour doesnt apply.

Another place I visited the aptly named Barkley Pet Hotel & Day Spa for dogs and cats near Los Angeles was an exercise in suspending disbelief. Its all too easy to scoff and dismiss this level of extravagance, yet if pets are your passion and you have more money than sense, whos to argue that surng lessons for your pooch or llet steak room service from The Four Seasons Hotel across the road for your little

The Standard Hotel in Manhattan, where oor- to-ceiling windows make indiscretions somewhat less-than-private

O U R P L A N E T


I N M Y C A S E

James MartinJAMES MARTIN is a chef, author and TV presenter. He is a regular in Dubai, often appearing at Taste of Dubai food festival in March

THE SWISS DECORATE old wells with spring ower displays and eggs to celebrate Easter. This conrms the importance of the gift of water to the continuing cycle of life and this tradition can still be seen in local villages and towns.

THE EGYPTIANS were the rst ones to associate bunnies with spring as they were the symbol for fertility, later the Celts followed this tradition. The Germans began the tradition of bunnies delivering chocolate eggs and immigrants took this with themto America, where it exploded.

darling is unjustiable? One lady, who has a beloved pet hen, brings her in for a weekly pedicure, wherein her claws are varnished red.

My worst hotel experience was The Smell Hotel in Eilat 20 years ago. It wasnt fully built and there was olfactory competition between the drains and buffet. I ew from Tel Aviv to the Red Sea for the weekend to scuba dive, without my passport. I was accused of being an Egyptian spy and strip-searched at the airport on the way back.

If I had to spend the rest of my life in one hotel, it would be the Ballyn in Ireland. Its an astonishingly luxurious country pile with only 15 rooms, so you feel as if youre a guest at a great friends house. Fishing, riding, archery and reading may sound like distinctly 19th-century pursuits, but theyre all here, and as effortlessly available as the scones and fruit compotes that appear beside the log res in the vast library in the afternoon. Most important is the indenable charm of the Irish hosts, that I wish could be bottled: a unique mix of immediacy, warmth and a way of looking at the world, expressed in language that uses 60 words whilst everyone else settles for a measly six.

O U R P L A N E T

For my series United Cakes of America, we

travelled from Washington all the way up the East Coast to Boston in an old 80s Cadillac as far as we could go in two weeks. One of the best things I bought on the trip was a whoopie tin, which looks like a very shallow Yorkshire pudding tin, with indentations about 5mm deep. Its used to make whoopie pie a cross between a cookie and a bun. This is an iconic cake in America, and there are lots of different stories about where and how it came about, and how it got its name. One story we heard was that it originated in Pennsylvania, when schoolchildren used to

shout whoopie! as they looked in their lunch boxes and discovered they had one inside. I bought the tin in a cookery store in New York, which is where I learnt to make the pies. I met up with a local guy who runs his own bakery and hosts whoopie pie parties we stocked up on ingredients at a local chocolatier and made some in his amazing at overlooking Manhattan. It was a pretty special experience. In the USA, you get lots of different avours, but back home I tend to just make chocolate whoopies, which are like a sort of soft chocolate biscuit. Ive only had my tin a few months, but Ive already used it several times.

HAITI KEUKENHOF - THE WORLDS LARGEST FLOWER GARDENThe Dutch Garden of Europe is in bloom

T H E R O A D L E S S T R A V E L L E D , W I T H T O N Y W H E E L E R H O L L A N D

One of the least explored corners of the Caribbean, Haiti is quietly bouncing back from a disastrous 2010 earthquake.Theres creole food, good beaches and great music, and despite all the horror stories about diseases and crime, its simply not as bad as youre told.

The Citadelle a brooding fortress built in the early 19th century by liberated Haitian slaves to ensure their French slavemasters didnt try to make a comeback. Its the most impressive man-made construction in the Caribbean.

The Port-au-Prince slums are out of bounds, but elswhere the Foreign & Commonwealth Ofce advice is common-sense caution keep an ear to the ground and avoid demonstrations.

Jacmel on the south coast is a charming seaside town, with galleries, craft shops and a kicking carnival in February. A painting or two. Haiti produces the most dynamic art particularly nave art in the Caribbean. And dont miss metalwork sculptures from the town of Croix-des-Bouquets. The Comedians the classic Graham Greene novel featuring Haitis longtime dictator, Papa Doc Duvalier.

Every year over seven million bulbs are planted on over 32 hectares in Lisse, Holland, all primed to burst into colour between March and the end of May. From ower parades to elds of tulips or hyacinths, inspiration gardens and activities for the kids, the at lowlands of Holland provide the perfect canvas for spring to come to life. Every year the garden chooses a country theme this year will be the UK with a huge ora mosaic of Big Ben and Tower Bridge. (Dhs75 entrance; keukenhof.nl).

TONY WHEELER, Lonely Planets co-founder, never stops exploring. Next month: Hong Kongs New Territories

The beach at Jacmel, in the south of Haiti


MUMBAILonely Planets Mumbai expert, Amy Karan, shares her pick of the city for free this month

F R E E W O R L D

SHIVARATRIIn March Hindus will celebrate Shivaratri, the night of Shiva. After a day of fasting and processions, temples hold colourful all-night prayer vigils. Head

to Mumbais Babulnath temple to see lingam (phallic statues representing Shiva) ritually bathed and draped with ower garlands as the temple lls with the aroma of incense and the sounds of devotional music (babulnath.com).

BOMBAY PANJRAPOLE Few people know about it, but right in the middle of a bustling market area in the city centre is this shelter for 350 homeless cows (plus a few

donkeys, dogs, goats and birds). Check in on the gals in the Pregnant Cows Department, or, for a small donation, feed them a bushel of greens (bombaypanjrapole.org.in).

GLOBAL VIPASSANA PAGODAIndia has a 3,000-year history of meditation.

Learn to meditate at the cavernous Burmese-style Global Pagoda. The worlds largest unsupported dome structure seats 8,000 and free 20-minute meditation classes are offered twice daily (globalpagoda.org).

MARINE DRIVE March is hot in Mumbai, so locals come to the shore for cool evening breezes.

Take a walk up the Marine Drive, which curls along the citys western coast, all the way up to Chowpatty, Mumbaikers most-loved beach. Watch the sunset and nibbling on bhel puri, one of Mumbais savoury street-food specialities.

GALLERY HOPPINGMumbai has many of the countrys best contemporary art galleries, most of them within walking distance of one another in the Colaba and

Fort neighbourhoods. This spring sees a focus on photography: Dhruv Malhotras haunting work is on show for free at Chatterjee & Lal gallery (22 March18 April) while the Focus festival (1327 March) offers free photography exhibitions in outdoor spaces across town (chatterjeeandlal.com; focusfestivalmumbai.com).

AMY KARAFIN is a co-author of Lonely Planets India guide and a lover of of ghee-based sweets. She lives in New York.

The Global Pagoda in the northern Gorai Creek


O U R P L A N E T

A N T I G U A

S C O T L A N D

C O S T A R I C A E S T O N I A

From here to there...From sailing in the Caribbean to Scottish history and hanging out in treetops, spring is nally here

SAIL AWAYSailing Capital of the Caribbean, Antigua welcomes all shipmates between 27 April and 3 May with its traditional Sailing Week. One of the most prestigious sailing weeks in the world, the small island sees sailors compete in a variety of regattas and races between nearby islands, with plenty of rum-fuelled parties thrown in for good measure. sailingweek.com

Scots can rejoice with the re-opening of the Highlanders Museum which is housed at Fort George, a 250-year-old registered historic monument. A key site in Scottish lore, the museum traces the history of

the Highland Regiments who were formed from the original Scottish clans in the 1700s. The museum is close to Cawdor Castle, made famous by Shakespeares Macbeth play. thehighlandersmuseum.com

In our Short Breaks feature on page 32 we show you riverboats, windmills and treehouses you can stay in but weve found something to top even that. At the Costa Verde in Quepos, Costa Rica you can now reside in a 1965 vintage Boeing 727. Jutting 50 foot into the air amongst the jungle and with a handcrafted deck atop one wing, this has to be the coolest hotel room on the planet. costaverde.com

Fed up with all the urban smog? Desert dust getting up your nose? According to the World Health Organisation, the cleanest air in the world can be found in Estonia (which itself can be found between Finland, Latvia and Russia). Low population density, decent climate conditions and strict measures on air pollution all come into play to help visitors enjoy some good old fashioned clean air. visitestonia.com

Highland charm

Into the trees Breathe more easily


AND ELSEWHERE IN THE WORLD...

Fly to Mattala, Sri Lanka. Air Arabia are now offering a twice weekly flight to Mattala in Sri Lanka from Sharjah. The frequency will go up to four times a week in the

summer. airarabia.com. Fly to the USA more easily. Qatar Airways will debut

its new direct route to Chicago in April, while Etihad has

recently launched direct flights to Washington DC.

qatarairways.com; etihad.com. Stay in BBC Radios

old home. Melia Hotel has converted Londons BBC Radios old address into a funky boutique with a

roof top bar overlooking London. MELondonUK.

com. Go looking for jaguars. Bespoke Brazil will

take explorers to the Pantanal, the largest floodplain in the world searching for these elusive creatures for 10 days. bespokebrazil.com. Eat, drink and be merry in Queensland. The Noosa Festival from 16-19 May will bring together the best food and wine from all over Australia, with over 200 Aussie chefs and winemakers. noosafoodandwine.com.au. Pedal across Europe. Hit five countries by bike this spring, ticking off Italy, Switzerland, France, Luxembourg and Belgium and following in the footsteps of salt traders, ancient merchants and armies whilst tucking into French cheese, Swiss choccies, and Italian gelato to keep your energy up! ciclismoclassico.com. Climb Mount Athos. The legendary mountain of the ancient Greek gods rises

3,000m above the sea and is next to 70kms of beautiful beaches. Inhabited by 2,000 monks, visitors can climb the peak to feel like a mythical hero.exploringmacedonia.com. Learn to ride a splitboard.

Bored of your snowboard? Splitboards are the next generation in piste sports and RudeChalets is running an intro week in April deep in the back countryof Chamonix with a local expert. The trip includes a six day

Mont Blanc pass, seven nights accommodation, equipement rental, all

meals and tuition. rudechalets.com. Go foraging in New York. Yup, thats right, nyma hotel will take urban foodies on a tour like never before.

Explore parks, the High Line, rooftops and the coastline for

berries, bark, mushrooms and herbs with wild man Steve Brill. thenewyorkmanhattanhotel.co.uk

Dubai International Convention and Exhibition Centre OOnne EEvvennt, UUnnnlimmiteddd Deestinnnnatioons

RReggister ttooday aat: wwwwww.arabbiantravvvelmarrket.coomm/regissternow

REGISTER NOW to discover tomorrows travel landscape todayTwwo decades oof growingg tourism tooogether. Where will tthe nextt 20 yearss taaake you?

Find out the latest travel trends, innovations and developments. Get inside tips from the industrys leading companies and individuals to help you develop your business.

Seminar highlights include: Q Google Think Travel EventQ Headline interviews with Emirates & QantasQ Uncover travels next hotspots in Destination Brie ngs


TRIPSEASYMarch is a month of action, from boats to the F1, and snowmobiling to ora tours in Jordan


THIS TRIP! TURN TO PAGE 88

TO FIND OUT HOW

WIN

See the F1 in Bahrain

Manama, Bahrain Pit stop WHY GO N OW?The Bahrain F1 Grand Prix whizzes into town this April, and is your rst chance this year to see the worlds biggest motorsport in the

Middle East. The Bahrain circuit spans just

over 5kms and the drivers need to complete 57 laps to win. While there has

been some controversy over

Bahrains staging of such a prestigious event whilst political protests seem to be ongoing, the event brings in much needed tourism to the small Gulf country and is an opportunity to get to know Manama better. It has museums, an old Portuguese fort and two water parks for amusement outside of the race.

MAKE IT HAPPEN4 The Bahrain F1 Grand Prix happens from 19-21 April (Dhs1,755 for a weekend ticket in the main grandstand; bahrain-grand-prix.com).4Fly to Bahrain with Gulf Air. Its business class now features fully-at beds and mobile connectivity (from Dhs720; gulfair.com).4Stay with Kempinski Grand & Ixir Bahrain City Centre (Dhs1,184 for the F1 package which includes breakfast and entrance to the F1 Grand Lounge; free Wi-; kempinski.com/en/manama/grand-and-ixir-hotel).

WHY GO NOW?Jordan. Everyone knows about Petra, the Dead Sea and Wadi Rum. But did you know Jordan has a vast ora (double that of the UK)? Garden and landscape designer Paul Hervey-Brookes is taking eager gardeners on a whirlwind 10 day tour of the country in partnership with Cox & Kings. Hervey-Brookes is designing the Discover Jordan entry at the UKs

Hampton Court Flower Show so hes uniquely qualied to share his knowledge on the natural wonders of the Jordanian desert, which will be in full bloom. The tour includes visits to the Royal Botanic Gardens, Dihbeen forest and Dana Biosphere Reserve as well as the desert castles of Qasr Amra and Qasr Kjaranah. The botanist will be on hand to give a series of informal lectures and talks.

Jordan In bloomMAKE IT HAPPEN4 The tour includes ights, transfers, excursions, accommodation and breakfast (Dhs12,990 per person; coxandkings.co.uk).4 The dates are 18-27 April and spaces are limited.4 Jordan has over 2,500 species of plant, including 100 endemic ones and guests will be introduced to the national ower, the Black Iris.

Discover Jordans incredible ora and fauna on this once in a lifetime tour

8 E A S Y T R I P S

WHY GO NOW?Sicily gets its spring in early. While northern Europe is still shivering its way through the damp, grey days of winter, Sicily is already in bloom. Blossoms add delicate colours to the many almond trees that populate the islands cool, green hills. A mix of virginal white and gentle pink, said to produce sweet and bitter almonds respectively, the curtain of blossom that sweeps across Sicily from January until the

end of March lends the air a sweetly perfumed scent. Even if you arrive late to the medieval city of Agrigento on the southwest coast makes the trip worthwhile. It is home to the Valle dei Templi (Valley of the Temples), and the most impressive ancient ruins on the Sicilian island. The collection of temples and city walls was once the site of the ancient Greek city of Akragas, set upon a ridge just below the town.

MAKE IT HAPPEN4 The almond blossom season in Sicily runs until the end of March.4 Agrigento is a two-hour bus ride from Palermo, the capital of Sicily (Dhs66; cuffaro.info), and there are regular direct trains too (from Dhs84; trenitalia.com). Flights to Palermo leave from Dubai with KLM (Dhs3,925; klm.com).4 The Atenea 191 is a friendly b&b in Agrigento (from Dhs330; atenea191.com).

Agrigento, Sicily Almonds in bloom

The ancient Temple of Concord, perhaps the nest ruin in Sicilys

Valle dei Templi, can just be seen through an orchard of

owering almond trees

Quote Lonely Planet Traveller

when booking for a 10% DISCOUNT

ON YOUR ROOM


WHY GO NOW?While dune bashing across the sands of the UAE can sometimes be a let-down too many 4x4s vying for the same tracks, killjoys in the backseat nothing beats the sheer adrenalin-fuelled rush of its close winter relative, snowmobiling. It is the ultimate winter activity and Mzaar, the largest ski resort in Lebanon, is the only place in the Middle East where you can do it. An hours drive from Beirut, the mountain resort has a winter

season that peaks in March and sits at an altitude of 1,850m. So, hop upon a ski-doo, rev up its engine with a ick of the wrist and, after a quick beginners lesson from your guide, rocket at speed across fresh, white powder faster than you can say where are the brakes? Coast over snowdrifts, make tracks down steep gullies, and wind up and over beautiful mountain plateaus, youll nd yourself surrounded by more than 40 glistening peaks in Mzaar.

Mzaar, Lebanon Taking the pisteMAKE IT HAPPEN4 SkiLeb.com is Lebanons number one provider of ski accommodation and resort information and is a one-stop shop for organising snowmobile tours and ski hire and passes (from Dhs238 per session; skileb.com).4 Fly Emirates direct from Dubai to Beirut (from Dhs1,800; emirates.com)4 Styled on a traditional Swiss

wooden chalet, the Intercontinental Mzaar Mountain Resort and Spa is the most romantic and exclusive hotel anywhere in the Lebanese mountains. To amuse in the evenings it has its own cinema, bowling alley and spa, and its three restaurants include authentic Alpine cuisine (from Dhs1,078; Wi- Dhs36 per hour; icmzaar.com).

Too lazy to try skiing? Check our snowmobiling in

Lebanon, with machines that can hit 80km per hour!

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WHY GO NOW?Austrias capital is awash with the sound of music during April, from grand state operas to an audio visual festival called sound:frame. From April-June over 150 opera and ballet performances will be screened live in the Herbert von Karajan Platz outside the opera house for free, whilst from 4-14 April the av festival will take over clubs and the Austrian Museum of Applied Arts/Contemporary Art (MAK), for a series of performances. For those that want something a little more chilled the Vienna Blues

Spring (viennabluesspring.com) is a six week festival that runs until the end of April with 40 concerts from jazz and blues musicians from all over the world. And if all thats not enough for your ears, you can follow in the footsteps of this citys famous musical sons, with walks that will trace the steps of Mozart, Beethoven and Haydn (free; wien.info/en/music-stage-shows/city-of-music/musicians-walks-download).

MAKE IT HAPPEN4 Stay in style at the new Palais Hansen Kempinski Vienna opening

Vienna, Austria Sound of musicthis month; a 19th century historic property in the centre of the city, close to St Stephens Cathedral (Dhs1,275 opening offer includes breakfast; free Wi-; kempinski.com/en/vienna/palais-hansen).4 Fly to Vienna on KLM (from Dhs4,000; klm.com).4 Keep costs down and buy a Vienna card. Travel by bus, tram or underground for three days plus get 210 discounts on attractions, restaurants, cafes and bars (Dhs100; wien.info/en/travel-info/vienna-card).

Austria will ring with the sound of opera, jazz, blues and more during April as many music festivals get underway in this historic city

For a touch of colonial glamour, look no further

Kuala Lumpur, MalaysiaColonial chicWHY GO NOW?The Majestic Hotel in Kuala Lumpur offers a historic stay in the Malaysian capital. The hotel has been the focal point of glamorous social circles since the 1930s as the Hotel Majestic, and it has been protected under the Antiquities Act. Set on 3.2 acres opposite the Moorish inspired railway station, a visit to the Majestic Hotel transports you back to a more rened era. Carry on the indulgence with a spa treatment a traditional afternoon tea or live out rakish dreams at The Smoke House, which has a cigar room, card room and a bar for an early evening tipple. The hotel also has a wine collection that has been collaborated on with the Baron Phillipe de Rothschild. If youve ever dreamed of becoming quite the aristocrat abroad, this is the perfect escape.

MAKE IT HAPPEN4 Fly direct on Singapore Airlines (from Dhs3,020; singaporeair.com).4 From Dhs769 per night including breakfast and a 45 minute massage per person; free Wi-; majestickl.com.4 Zip round the city on one of six metro lines or invest in a hop on/hop off ticket for a bus that has 22 stops close to 40 attractions (Dhs45 for 24 hours; visit-malaysia.com/kl-tours/kl-hop-on.htm).4 Most countries are eligible for a visa on arrival from either a few days to three months.


WHY GO NOW? Youve seen them in the movies, those frightfully rened, well-tailored chaps of English eras gone by. Now you can become one in a six-day tour/makeover in the UK. First youll be taken on a private shopping tour of Mayfair and iconic Saville Row, the home of bespoke British tailoring, to get yourself all kitted out. Once in your dapper new threads retire to the impeccably English, Coworth Park

(close to Ascot), a country seat in Berkshire, where you can learn how to ride, shoot, play tennis, polo and the all English croquet. If all that tires the muscles, make like a modern gent and indulge in some spa action, in the sumptuous surroundings. While in London town youll be residing at The Connaught, one of the most prestigious addresses in the city, and treated to some of Londons nest dining.

Berkshire, UK Become a gentlemanMAKE IT HAPPEN?4 The six-day tour is available through Ampersand Tours (from Dhs11,200; ampersandtravel.com).4 Fly to the UK direct from Abu Dhabi on Etihad (from Dhs4,020; etihad.ae).4 The price includes all airport transfers and accommodation.4 23 April is St Georges Day, the patron saint of England, so theres no time better to visit.

Cosworth Park might be a historial seat but theres nothing fuddy duddy about its decor. It has given the antique look a modern makeover with suites in muted pastels (above and below). Learn how to ride like a proper English gent (right)

Watch the marine-based drama as the Americas Cup hits Italy

Naples, ItalySail awayWHY GO NOW?All the best sailors in the world, the fastest boats on one of the toughest professional circuits in sailing, will dock in Naples next month. The Americas Cup World Series can trace its heritage back to a race between England and France in 1851 but it now encompasses the world, and features the most advanced multi-hull boats on earth. What comes with the boats is a otilla of festivities based around the Race Village, which in Naples will be on the picturesque Via Caracciolo. From here visitors can view the 11 teams catamarans racing over 30 miles per hour with eet and match racing, family entertainment, local food and drinks and a look at some of the latest boating technology. Visiting the city for the rst time last year, the Americas Cup circus drew in 500,000 spectators and Naples is the last stop in 2013 before the competition heads back Stateside.

HOW DO I MAKE IT HAPPEN?4 The Americas Cup World Series will be in Naples from 16-21 April 2013.4 Fly to Naples through Munich on Lufthansa (Dhs3,445; lufthansa.com).4 Stay in style at Hotel Costantinopoli 104 , a 19th Century period villa with a beautiful garden and pool (Dhs575 per night; free Wi-; costantinopoli104.com).4 For a taste of creamy, real Italian gelato and the best chocolates in town pop in to Gay Odin (Via Benedetto Croce 61; gay-odin.it).

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SHORT BREAKS YOU NEED TO BOOK NOWLooking for travel inspiration beyond the UAE? Want to do something different, exciting and get away from it all? Weve rounded up some truly unique adventures across Europe, Africa, the Middle East and India, from nding inner peace on a houseboat in Kerala to whipping round Tuscany on a Vespa or discovering how to eat like a local in Berlin. Dont settle for a boring hotel stay when you could be doing so much more!

EUROPEp36 On the trail of George

Orwell in Barcelonap37 Go kayaking in Maltap37 Hire a Vespa in Tuscanyp41 Move into a Spanish

treehousep38 Eat like a local in Berlinp38 Drink in a French vineyardp35 Book into a windmill in

Santanorinip38 Have a spa break in

Budapestp38 Cruise along a river in

Portugalp32 Discover bloodthirsty

Romep40 Dine out in Kalkan, Turkeyp39 Enjoy a hammam in Baku

MIDDLE EASTp38 Go kitesurng in Omanp40 Take a balloon ride over

Wadi Rump34 Wine tasting in Lebanon

AFRICAp36 Trek Moroccos pastp40 Uncover the botanical

gardens of Mauritiusp39 Take a spice tour in

Zanzibar

INDIA p35 Find a wildlife sanctuary

in Goap39 Be calm with Averyurdic

treatment on a houseboat in Kerala

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1 WHEN IN ROME...Roman tastes havent changed much in 2,000 years. Each Sunday, thousands of residents make the pilgrimage to a huge stadium, where they chant and sing, eat and drink and hurl outrageous abuse at each other and at one unfortunate man at the centre of the arena. Granted, the referees in charge of Romas home games arent ripped apart by lions, but theres a hint of similarity between the Roman games once held in the Colosseum and the football matches at todays Olympic Stadium. The former huge, half-ruined circular stadium is Romes most iconic structure, and it was once the home to the ruthless Roman games, in which gladiators and prisoners would battle each other and wild animals for the entertainment of a bloodthirsty crowd.The Colosseum or the Flavian Amphitheatre, as it was originally known was built in the rst century AD. The ring of brick arches was constructed using the same techniques perfected in the building of aqueducts. At the games peak, some 5,000 lions, tigers and elephants were killed each year. Plans are afoot for a multimillion-euro makeover this year. OARRIVE Emirates ies direct to Rome (from Dhs3,100; emirates.com). OSTAY Spic n span My Guest Roma is a modern B&B in Piazza Bologna (from Dhs350 per double inc breakfast; free Wi-; myguestroma.com).

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2 WILDLIFE SANCTUARY, SOUTH GOA

Enchanting Goa, a land of palm trees, beaches, churches, ea markets and mouthwatering cuisine, is also a place where people party like mad or do absolutely nothing. But it has much to offer when it comes to nature, from hot springs and canoeing (the journey begins from the popular Palolem beach) to other activities in the southern part of the state such as visiting a wildlife sanctuary. The Cotiago Wildlife Sanctuary, located in Canacona Taluka, is made up of a dense forest lled with 30m tall trees and moist deciduous trees. Visit the sanctuary during dusk or dawn and spot the animals that rock up to drink from the watering hole from the watch tower up above. Youll come across creatures as diverse as ying squirrels, mouse deer, four-horned antelopes, heart-spotted and white-bellied woodpeckers and Malabar tree toads. Once youve had a look at the wildlife species, visit the tribal groups that live in and around the sanctuary and get to know more about their lifestyle (Dhs2; goatourism.gov.in).OARRIVE Air India ies directly to Goa (from Dhs1,500; airindia.com). The sanctuary is located 12kms away from Palolem Beach, and can be reached by taxi or car.OSTAY The Ferns Gardenia Resort is an eco-friendly resort located 1km away from Palolem Beach (Dhs357 per room inc breakfast; free Wi-; ferngardeniaresortgoa.com).

Chateua Ksara offers free wine tours

3 A WINDMILL IN GREECE

On the northeast coast of the volcanic island of Santorini lie three whitewashed windmills, their canvas sails creaking in the wind (from Dsh1,350; each sleeps up to ve; open from May to October; windmill.gr). Designed and built by owners Nikos and Fotini, each has three storeys, with magnicent views of the Aegean Sea from the bedrooms on the upper oors. Much is made of the windmills curves beds, staircases and

Lebanon might be a small country but its packed with things to do from beach parties in Beirut to Roman temples in Baalbeck and skiing in Faraya. Done all those? Head to the Beqaa Valley located towards the east of Beirut. Centuries ago, the valley was a major agricultural source, and is now one of the most signicant regions for farming in Lebanon. The valley consists of a Mediterranean climate and is popular for the wines that are produced in the region, in the rst and oldest winery, Chateau Ksara. Established in 1857, the regions rst dry white wine was developed in this chateau and has since been exported globally. Visit the cellars with a

A windmill villa on Santorini, Greece

Meet the mouse deer in Goa

bathrooms are built into the walls rather than ght against them. Theres little reason to leave your little circular home (each has a private pool and a terrace) but there are plenty of beaches nearby, including Pori Beach with its unusual black sand. Perfect for that long awaited peace and quiet.OARRIVE Emirates and Aegean Air will get you to Santorini via Athens (Dhs3,658; egyptair.com).

guided tour, and explore the caves, take in the aromas of the grapes, and indulge in a wine, cheese and cold-cuts tasting (free; chateauksara.com).

OARRIVE Fly to Beirut twice daily from Dubai (Dhs1,300; ydubai.com).OSTAY Hotel Massabki is a boutique option in Beqaa (Dhs563; free Wi-; massabkihotel.com).

4 WINE TASTING IN BEQAA VALLEY, LEBANON



5 A WEEKEND HOMAGE TO CATALONIA

George Orwell wasnt always especially polite about Barcelona describing the citys most famous landmark, the Sagrada Familia, as one of the most hideous buildings in the world. Nonetheless, his masterly 1938 account of the Spanish Civil War, Homage to Catalonia, means his name has long been enshrined in city folklore. Iberianature offers regular Spanish Civil War day tours of Barcelona, covering various locations associated with Orwells time here. Casting the citys most familiar streets in a new light, tours revisit the scenes of gunghts and bomb blasts around La Rambla and the Barri Gtic, as well as ofces where Orwell and his Marxist comrades were headquartered (tours Dhs80; iberianature.com). For some R&R, head to the seaside town of Tarragona, a 90-minute train journey south (from Dhs72 return, up to Dhs330 for fast train taking 30 minutes; renfe.com) Orwell spent time in the city recovering from injuries during the war.OARRIVE Fly Lufthansa via Zurich (Dhs3,330; lufthansa.com).OSTAY Hotel Banys Orientals is a popular boutique hotel in El Born, just north of the Barri Gtic (from Dhs660; free Wi-; hotelbanysorientals.com).

Barcelonas Sagrada Familia

in construction since 1882

6 GO TREKKING IN MOROCCOS PAST Head to the Anti-Atlas, the Ameln Valley and Jebel LWest around Tafraoute to explore Moroccos vast ora and fauna and its deep history. This is Berber country, a population derived from Moroccos original inhabitants, who have stayed fast in the mountainous area, and to Islam which arrived in the seventh century and have seen off almost every invader since. The area is a two hour drive from Agadir, a few days here is going back in time, where traders busy themselves manufacturing babouches leather shoes, locally regarded as the only footwear worth wearing as you traverse the hillsides amongst date palms and pomegranate trees. To the south of this area sits the

Sahara desert, a local story tells how originally the land was green and lush but every grain of sand represents a lie and so it has become desert. The oases still dotted around because of the good and honest people With many young gone to nd fortune in the city, what visitors will nd is a slow pace, generous people and plenty of pilgrim trails to work your way along.ARRIVE Qatar Airways ies to Agadir (Dhs3,346; qatarairqays.com) or Etihad ies direct to Marrakesh (Dhs 4,200; etihad.ae). Tafraoute is a six hour drive from Marrakesh.OSTAY Hotel Salama is a clean, cheap option in Tafraoute (from Dhs110 for a double ; free Wi-; hotelsalama.com)

8 A SPA HOTEL IN BUDAPEST

People have come to Budapest since Roman times to benet from the healing properties of the thermal water bubbling up from the 118 springs beneath the city. And the very best way to enjoy that water is by staying at the Danubius Hotel Gellrt, a huge Art Nouveau edice on the banks of the Danube (from Dhs510; danubiushotels.com). Guests have direct access to the Gellrt Spa and Bath, with its thermal pools decorated with mosaics, massage rooms and dry and steam saunas. Taking the waters in the main hall, under a galleried glass roof, has been likened to swimming in a cathedral. Rooms in the hotel are comparatively plain, but after all that therapeutic soaking youll be too nonchalant to care.OARRIVE Fly to Budapest via Istanbul on Turkish Airlines (Dhs2,968; turkishairlines.com). A one-day travel pass for public transport in the city costs Dhs27.

9 SEA-KAYAKING AROUND MALTA

Less than 30 miles from end to end, Malta is an archipelago in miniature whose crinkled coastline ts in as much Mediterranean blue as possible in this, the smallest EU member state. Sea-kayaks are the most versatile means of exploring the shores of the main island (also confusingly called Malta), its smaller partner Gozo and baby Comino, which sits in between. Sea Kayak Malta arranges tours that take in caves, sea arches and an uninhabited island where St Paul is said to have been shipwrecked, with stops for swimming, snorkeling and a picnic lunch (full day Dhs300; seakayakmalta.com).OARRIVE Fly Emirates to Malta with one stop in Larnaca (Dhs3,000; emirates.com).OSTAY Hotel Juliani is a boutique hotel in a seafront townhouse on Maltas main island (from Dhs390; free Wi-; hoteljuliani.com).

7 TOURING TUSCANY ON A VESPA

The faithful Vespa would without doubt win a contest for the most quintessentially Italian vehicle. Tuscany Scooter Rental hires out these zippy numbers for self-guided tours through the Chianti hills (Dhs1,380 per person for a two-night package including hotels; tuscanyscooterrental.com). Back roads lead past rows of grapevines to hilltop towns and villages such as Radda in Chianti. The scooters can t two riders (some previous riding experience is highly advisable) and, in a twist to Henry Fords dictum, you can have any colour you like, as long as its red.OARRIVE Fly KLM and Air France (Dhs3,628; klm.com) and it's a 75-minute drive by car to pick-up locations in the region (from around Dhs150 per day; budget.co.uk).OSTAY Tour prices include hotels. For longer stays, Podere San Lorenzo is a farmstay near Volterra (fromDhs480; free Wi-; agriturismo-volterra.it).

Sea-kayaking in the Blue Lagoon on the tiny Maltese island of Comino


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12 KITE-SURFING IN OMAN

Compared to the UAE, Omans lush climate is perfect for all those off road activities from mountain climbing to watersports. Muscat is slowly gaining popularity for the adventurous activities the country has to offer such as wakeboarding, surng and paragliding. At Al Zaiba beach, kitesurfers take to the waters in droves, this stretch of coast has distinguished itself as a real hangout for those wanting to get some air down on the sea. Novices to the sport can get a six-hour crash course from professional instructors that includes kite and safety equipment. Ras Al Hadd lagoon is another popular destination for kitesurng and is located two hours away from Muscat. (from Dhs1,449; kitesurng-lessons.com).OARRIVE Fly from Dubai to Muscat on ydubai (from Dhs495; ydubai.com).OSTAY Park Inn by Radisson Muscat (from Dhs800; free Wi- parkinn.

13 A RIVER LODGE IN PORTUGAL

Deep in the So Mamede Natural Park in the Alentejo region of Portugal lies the Moinho do Pego Ferreiro, an abandoned mill restored in 2006 by British couple Cathy and Richard. A river runs through the smallholding, swathed in olive, cork, walnut and g trees, and its here that youll nd the River Lodge, a wooden platform covered by canvas and home to a double bed (from Dhs210; open April to October; canopyandstars.co.uk). There is nothing here to distract from the art of simple living. So light a camp re, take a dip in the river, watch for otters or freshwater turtles and enjoy the seasonal produce (including homemade beer) made on the premises. OARRIVE Emirates y directto Lisbon in eight hours (Dhs4,395; emirates.com). River Lodge is in Relva, 140 miles east of Lisbon. ). The airport has the usual car-hire rms (from Dhs120 per day; europcar.com).

10 STAY AT A VINEYARD IN BORDEAUX

Sat in a stripy deckchair on the sunny terrace of a charming 17th-century chteau surrounded by ve hectares of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec vines there are few places in the world where a glass of wine could taste better. In the hands of the Charmet-Thomas family since the 1830s, Chteau Lestange is a working vineyard, its abundant grapes used to produce a red AOC Premires Ctes de Bordeaux. Current incumbent Anne-Marie Charmet also rents out rooms featuring softly faded paintwork, original oorboards and antique mirrors and portraits to wine-lovers wanting a base for further exploration in the region (from Dhs480; chateau-lestange.com). Bordeaux is only 15 miles down the road, and the wine estates of Saint-milion are less than an hours drive away.OARRIVE Fly direct to Paris on Emirates in only six hours (Dhs3,950; emirates.com) then a three-hour train to Bordeaux (from Dhs216 return; sncf.com). Hire a car from the station (Dhs300 per day; sixt.com).

11 SEEK OUT SUPPER CLUBS IN BERLIN

Hidden among the German capitals apartments are some of the citys best places to eat. Supper clubs, privately hosted dinner parties for paying guests, also offer the chance to have a nosy round the homes of real Berliners. Try Fisk & Grnsaken (Dhs120; groonsaken.wordpress.com), where locals serve modern dishes such as beetroot consomm with dumplings in their art-lled living room. OARRIVE KLM to Berlin (from Dhs2,670; klm.com). OSTAY Ackselhaus offers 12 bedrooms (from Dhs720; ackselhaus.de).

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Enjoy a vino in your garden

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16 AYURVEDIC TREATMENT ON A HOUSEBOAT, KERALA In the 15th century, the lucrative spice trade was what attracted most expats to Kerala, specically the Portuguese. Fast forward to the 21st century and Kerala is now one of the leading spice exporters in India. Amongst the spices, beaches and hill-stations, some of the most popular attractions are the houseboats, where guests can stay overnight, eat authentic cuisine and relax with massages and body treatments. Ayurveda, a traditional system of medicine, is prevalent in Kerala, amongst most spas and it extends even to the houseboats. For an authentic Ayurvedic experience, book a Ayurvedic spa package on a houseboat to explore the Keralan backwater attractions in Alleppey and Kumarakom, and heal your body with treatments specied by doctors and meals to heal you from the inside (from Dhs442 per day; kumarakomhouseboatholidays.com).OARRIVE Emirates ies to Cochin (Kochi) (from Dhs1,430; emirates.com). Flights from Cochin to Kerala can be accessed by Jet Airways (Dhs310; jetairways.com). Airport transfers are offered through the houseboat holidays company.OSTAY The Kumarakom Houseboat Holidays luxury option is ideal for ultimate relaxation and zoning out from normal life (Dhs850; kumarakomhouseboatholidays.com).

Many know of hammams as the popular Moroccan treatment, where you are scrubbed from head to toe with an exfoliating soap or scrub, and emerge with rejuvenated glowing, supple skin, but the cleansing process is equally popular in Baku, Azerbaijan. When youre done soaking up the culture and heritage of this city, and have made your way through the mosques and historical sites such as the UNESCO World Heritage Site, the 12th Century Maiden Tower and the Shirvanshahs Palace, head to the luxurious penthouse spa at the Four Seasons Hotel in Baku to choose your hammam treatment. Whether you want to experience the traditional, straight-forward hammam, or try an innovative seaweed detox version, its one of the ner ways to treat yourself to a luxurious afternoon. The ritual includes an aromatic exfoliation, body mask and hair treatment, to leave you puried and revived (from Dhs561 for the treatment; fourseasons.com/baku).OARRIVE Baku can be reached on Qatar Airways (from Dhs1,262; qatarairways.com) and FlyDubai (from Dhs1,233; ydubai.com).OSTAY Four Seasons Baku Deluxe rooms overlook the architectural preserve Icheri Sheher, the UNESCO World Heritage sites and a park that surrounds the National Philharmonic Theatre (from Dhs1,400; free Wi-; fourseasons.com/baku)

15 A SPICE TOUR, ZANZIBARThe land of Zanzibar is made up of an archipelago of islands, each is distinct in its own way, situated 35kms off the coast of mainland Tanzania. Coral cliffs and white sandy beaches make up most part of the main island of Unguja, which helps to make it warmer all year round, with the north and north-east coast enjoying a healthy sea breeze. Zanzibars appeals lies in spices, as the islands produces cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon, and black pepper. Trace the spice routes with a guided tour

Enjoy a traditional hammam in Baku

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14 HAMMAM TREATMENT, BAKU, AZERBAIJAN

of local farms near Kidchi and Kizimbani. Awaken your senses as you see, smell and taste a variety of tropical fruits such as jackfruits, pineapples, mangos and malay apples, as well as spices including cloves, ginger, vanilla pods, lemongrass and nutmeg (Dhs95; zanzibarquest.com).OARRIVE Qatar Airways ies to Zanzibar (from Dhs2,462; qatarairways.com).OSTAY Tembo House hotel is located on the seafront in Stone Town (Dhs385; free Wi-; tembohotel.com). Pick-ups are organised by Zanizbar Quest.

Follow your nose in Zanzibar

Drift away on a houseboat of calm


19 RESTAURANT HOP IN KALKAN, TURKEY

Travel along coastal Turkey and discover the small harbour village of Kalkan that is bursting with culture and foodie nds. Turkeys shing villages have always been popular with the locals who enjoy the fresh seafood and produce, but Kalkan on Turkeys Turquoise coast is soon becoming a haven for travellers who want to taste the real Turkey. The picturesque town is made up of cobbled streets and bougainvilleas which line the pavements and backed by the Taurus mountains. It has over 100 restaurants, where people can sample authentic Ottoman cuisine from menus that change constantly. Restaurateurs from Istanbul have established themselves in Kalkan to make use of the fresh produce the village has to offer and to create Ottoman inspired dishes at affordable prices. Most restaurants are nestled on roof terraces or on the harbour front and offer stunning views of the sea. Try the Turkish pide, a healthier style of pizza (kalkanmagic.com).OARRIVE Flydubai ies to Istanbul (from Dhs1,243; ydubai.com).OSTAY Patara Prince Hotels and Resorts offers villas, apartments and rooms (from Dhs485; free Wi-; pataraprince.com).

Home to sandy beaches, tranquil waters, watersports, luxury spas, and all things linked to relaxation, Mauritius is the ideal destination to head to for a bit of rest and relaxation. Amongst the multiple activities and sights to see on this island, the Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Botanic Garden, located in Pamplemousses, near Port Louis, is one of the most popular tourist attractions on the island. Named after the man who led the country to independence and a former Prime Minister of the country, the gorgeous garden covers an area of 33 hectares and is home to over 85 types of palm trees that have been brought over to the garden from other countries. Wander through one of the oldest botanical gardens in the southern

18 HOT AIR BALLOONING, WADI RUM, JORDAN

A visit to Jordan isnt complete without the customary visit to Petra, Jerash to visit the ancient ruins and the Roman amphitheatre, the Dead Sea and the Citadel in Amman but there are tons of adventurous activities to get stuck into as well. Head to the coastal city of Aqaba (located in southern Jordan) for a dive, or perhaps take in the birds-eye-views of Wadi Rum on a hot-air balloon ride. Wadi Rum, also known as the valley of the moon, has been cut into sandstone and granite rock and is the largest wadi in Jordan. The highest point in Wadi Rum is Mount Um Dami (6.040 ft high), and on clear day you can see right across to the Red Sea and border of Saudi Arabia. If youre staying in Aqaba book one of the hot-air balloon rides over Wadi Rum, take in the exquisite views of the mountains and experience a view like no other. (Dhs674 per person; rascj.com)OARRIVE Royal Jordanian ies to Aqaba (from Dhs1,580; rj.com). Taxi it from central Aqaba to Wadi Rum (from Dhs105; wadirum.org).OSTAY The Intercontinental Aqaba Resort overlooks the Red Sea and has a 300m private beach (from Dhs455; free Wi-; intercontinental.com/hotels/gb/en/aqaba).

hemisphere, with the help of the guides available at the entrance, and be entranced by the sights of giant water lilies, ranges of medicinal plants, ebonies, sugar canes, a variety of spices and a healthy collection of creaky 200-year- old giant tortoises. You can either walk the botantical garden or be lazy in a golf buggy but dont miss the focal point of the garden a pond lled with giant Victoria amazonia water lilies, native to South America and rare in this part of the world (admission Dhs40; mauritiusattractions.com).OARRIVE Emirates ies directly o Mauritius (from Dhs5,160; emirates.com)OSTAY The Le Mridien Ile Maurice offers stunning views of the Indian Ocean (from Dhs928; Wi- Dhs92 per day; lemeridien-mauritius.com).

17 BOTANICAL GARDENS, MAURITIUS Explore Jordans

largest wadi

South American waterlilies in Mauritus


20 A TREEHOUSE IN SPAIN

The treehouse has undergone something of a renaissance in recent years, with canopy-level accommodation springing up all over Europe. Cabanes als Arbres takes things up a notch, with a veritable village of houses perched up in the branches of the Forest of the Guilleries in Girona (from Dhs480; cabanesalsarbres.com). Each of the 10 cabins is built around a Douglas r or beech tree and has its own terrace, perfect for a sunset drink with views of the surrounding mountains. To preserve the natural atmosphere of the woodland, there is no electricity guests are warmed by a parafn heater, can read by candlelight and hoist up their breakfast from ground level using a basket and a rope.OARRIVE Fly Lufthansa via Zurich (Dhs3,330; lufthansa.com).Hire a car at the airport (from Dhs125 per day; sixt.co.uk).

Treehouse at Cabanes als Arbres

in Girona, Spain


CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Market stalls in Phnom Penh; the bas-relief carvings at Bayon temple; Song Saas private island villas on stilts; some statues remain at Angkor Wat


C A M B O D I A

Ancient temples emerge out of the early morning mist, noisy scooters ebb and ow in the capitals streets and backpackers

traipse between neon-lit bars. Cambodia has one foot in the vine-covered past and one rmly in the present

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS GEORGINA WILSON-POWELL

LEFT to RIGHT: Children help the family business in the busy market in Phnom

Penh; tourists start to arrive at Angkor Wat; the

delicate Khmer carvings can be seen at all the

temples; Bayon temple s ruins are enchanting

THE ANCIENT LAND OF CAMBODIA (pronounced Kampuchea) appears on many travellers wishlists. The friendly people, the temples and culture, the food and the old colonial touches (the French appeared in the 19th century and didnt leave until 1953) all capture

what is heady about the country for many. And while the past includes the Khmer Rouge and civil war ravaged the country between the mid 1970s and 1993, Cambodia now is a safe and inspiring destination, perfect for those who want to lose themselves in history, enjoy the famed hospitality and discover a land of myth and legend.

Cambodias capital is a heady mix of culture and nocturnal indulgence. Spread out with wide boulevards, the citys pavements is where every aspect of life is playing out, from cooking dinner to playing badminton, while shops that only sell one thing, create huge piles of their products out on the pavements. From trafc cones to cardboard boxes, tractor steering wheels to suitcases, if you want to buy anything, the street is where its at. Scooters whizz through the trafc, carrying anything from one person to a family of ve, whilst others use them to transport seemingly impossible items from stacks of chickens in baskets to an entire exhaust pipe. Nowhere is more bustling and crowded (and has a sense of being the real Phnom Penh) than the

central daily market which has an indoor jewellery hub, with different sections of the market for food, clothes, DIY essentials and so on shooting off from it at angles like the spokes on a bike. Head to the food section, for the smells and sights of Cambodian cuisine, theres a slightly claustrophobic eating area, packed with the citys people slurping down bowls of pho. For a taste of the nightlife, hit Riverside and work your way back, the further from the water, the less neon signs and the more rened the drinks on offer. You can still see echoes of the French colonisation in the architecture but the city seems to keen to build new, with skyscrapers and malls in development.

An hour by plane from the capital is Siam Reap. This ancient city gets its name from the defeat of the Thai in the 16th century, when all of Cambodia had been swallowed by what was then Siam. The Khmer (Cambodian is a term imposed on the people by foreigners) are a proud and humble people and in Siam Reeps 13th century heyday their empire stretched from Thailand to Laos and Vietnam. But by the 20th century it had dwindled to a village, until Angkor Wat was rescued from the jungle by French explorers. Now the city has over 10,000 hotel rooms and thanks to the increase in Asian tourists, is phenomenally busy. After youve done the temples surrounding the town, head to the Night Market for Siam Reaps backpacker-esque nightlife. Pub Street is similar to Walking Street in Thailands

xxxxx


TREE LIMBS INTERTWINE AMONGST THE STONE,

SLOWLY EATING THE CARVED WALLS

AND LINTELS

Pattaya or Khao San Road in Bangkok, with slightly less nudity. Bars blare out the latest Rhianna hits or Gangnam Style, young travellers earnestly discuss their next move or latest cultural discovery over Dhs2 beers and the streets are lined with market stalls and Dhs5 massages, manicures and pedicures. Follow the noise and lights to the right at the end of Pub Street to get to the ofcial Night Market which has smaller craft-like artisan stalls and sells plenty of local silk pashminas, spices and other souvenirs.

The magnicent Angkor Wat temple was the largest pre-industrial complex in the world when it was built in the late 12 century by Suryavarman, and it stood at the centre of the Khmers empire. Its hard to imagine anyone not being stunned by it as early morning risers wait for it to appear in the dawn, jostling for position by the reecting pool to capture that perfect shot. (If you want a front and centre space then consider arriving at around 4.30am). There are entrances at the east and west gates (the west is the popular one, with a stone bridge over what used to be a 2.5kms moat) but head east rst and youll be rewarded with a quieter, less tourist lled approach. The entire complex is open to explore, the long colonnaded walkways with their incredible carvings representing the Hindu gods and the scenes of Suryavarmans court, are astounding in their detail and decoration, you could

Rafes, Phonm Penh

Originally the Hotel Le Royal, Rafes opened in 1929 and the imposing 170 room hotel centres around two pools with a mix of Khmer, Art Deco and French colonial style. (Dhs791; free Wi-; rafes.com/phnompenh)

PHNOM PENH WHERE TO STAY

lose an entire day here. Angkor Wat now attracts over 3 million visitors a year, so if youre expecting calm, mysterious and ancient, forget it. Your best bet is to get in early and stay ahead of the mammoth tour groups taking pictures of themselves against almost every stone.


Victoria Angkor Resort & Spa This French colonial inspired ve star hotel is a touch of calm amongst the busy temples. Built round a large pool, with courtyards (and a pond with mini crocodiles) in the main building, the Victoria is perfect for sundowners on the terrace after a day out trekking. (Dhs732; free Wi-; victoriahotels.asia).

SIAM REEP WHERE TO STAY

As much as Angkor Wat is the headline act, you should make time for the supporting temples, as they are smaller complexes, they seem to have more of an effect on the soul, than the city-sized Angkor. First up should be Bayon temple. Bayon temple at Angkor Thom looks like a giant has stomped through, knocking over walls in a petty t. Most of its towers remain, each home to four faces, weathered by the years but still watching over the world uninching. These bas-relief carvings provide an eerie yet more personal connection than Angkor Wat. Again every inch of this temple is delicately carved and a smaller number of tourists mean more opportunity for climbing in amongst the ruins and really getting a feel for the incredible history woven into the stones. Despite it being more ruined than either Bayon or Angkor Wat, the Ta Prohm temple is perhaps the most decrepitly picture-perfect. Angelina Jolie used it as a backdrop for her Lara Croft: Tomb Raider lm, the temple is home to a particular type of tree which needs stone to anchor itself. The result is a crumbling assortment of towers and doorways that have become part of the forest around them. Tree limbs intertwine amongst the stone, slowly eating the carved walls and lintels. The stones themselves seemed to have aged gracefully, with moss bringing out stunning reds and greens in the dead rock. The temple has been left to decay naturally, rather than

receive the sometimes over enthusiastic restoration that Angkor Wat has seen, and as such it has an atmosphere and a beauty that is just unrivalled. Again, arrive early. Many of the structures can only be seen along a decked walkway which becomes incredibly busy with large tour groups and guides with megaphones.

Cambodia isnt just about the past. The private island Song Saa (or twin islands the name means sweetheart) is rmly about Cambodias future as a tropical refuge from the modern world. Only accessible by a 45 minute speedboat ride, the island has been developed as an uber-luxe eco-resort. A mixture of individual villas, some over the water, some facing the ocean hide amongst the slightly manicured greenery of the island. This is a proper getaway of the A-list kind. Yoga platforms sit atop rocky perches waiting for skinny VIP bottoms or retreat to your private innity pool and order a ne-dining meal cooked on your terrace while you soak up the sunset. The resort is already nding favour with those looking for somewhere other than Thailand, India and the Seychelles and it also runs multiple projects to aid local people, ora and fauna. Guests can donate to these projects if theyd like to give back to this beautiful country. Song Saa really brings out a different side to Cambodia, it might be rmly on the backpacker trail but it doesnt mean thats all that is available.(Dhs7,206, free Wi-; songsaa.com).

LEFT to RIGHT: Song Saas private villas look straight out across the ocean; the trees take

over at Ta Prohm temple


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BARGAIN!

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Rafes Grand dAngkor

2 Sotel, Phnom Penh Phokeethra is a modern affair with hard wood oors and high ceilings that mixes Art Deco with Khmer-style interiors. The Sunday brunch is popular amongst the capitals well-heeled types desperate for French food. It has great oysters (Dhs915; free Wi-; sotel.com).

1Get off the hotel trail at the Tree of Life villa in Siem Reap. It has 12 bedrooms and a garden full of hammocks and is situated near to the Night Market and Pub Street for those that want more nightlife options after exhausting all the temples (Dhs73 per room; Wi- extra;treeoife-villa.com/).

3 The ve star InterContinental, Phonm Penh is the tallest building in the city and has a holistic spa, a high-tech gym and an open-air pool. It is only ten minutes drive from the Grand Palace and Riverside with its nightlife options (Dhs710; free Wi-; ihg.com/intercontinental/hotels/gb/en/phnom-penh).

4 Frangipani 60s Villa, Phnomn Penh is a four star hotel from a local brand who have several boutique, fresh and reasonably priced hotels in the capital and Siem Reap. This hotel has a number of studiso with large terraces to enjoy the temperate weather (Dhs223; free Wi-; frangipanihotel.com).

5Want to keep it real cheap in the capital? The Terrace on 95 is a boutique B&B built in the 1930s as a traditional Khmer house. It has eight distinctly designed bright rooms round a lush green courtyard, which all come with a free breakfast and a healthy dose of local hospitality (Dhs146, free Wi-; theterraceon95.com).

6 Had enough of backpacking, slumming it , tiny bathrooms and cheap beer? The classy and historic Rafes Grand dAngkor hotel comes with plenty of chic style and recently hosted ex-US Secetary of State Hillary Clinton (Dhs1,043; free Wi-; rafes.com/siem-reap/)

7Spend the night before Song Saa island at the beachside resort of Shinoukville, which is where the local Khmer from Phnom Penh holiday. Sokha Beach Resort is the best option with its own private beach (Dhs724; free Wi-; sokhahotels.com/sihanoukville).

ESSENTIALS Getting there

Fly to Phnom Penh on Qatar Airways, the only airline to do so from Dubai, via Doha with a one hour stop in Ho Chi Minh (from Dhs2,7600; qatarairways.com). Fly from the capital to Siam Reep or Shanoukville on Cambodian Angkor Airlines (Dhs476 for Siam Reep return; cambodiaangkorair.com).

Getting around

At Siam Reep, its best to get a tuk-tuk to take you to the temples or to the night market (from around Dhs50 but remember to barter) and youre best off sticking to this mode of transport in Phonm Penh as well.

Further readingLonely Planets Cambodia guide (Dhs75) is available from lonelyplanet.com.

Climate

From private islands and lm set-worthy temples to some of the friendliest people youll ever meet, its easy to fall in love with Cambodia. Discover sights like no other here

Intricately detailed Angkor Wat, which has stood since the 12th century, has become a symbol of Cambodia

7 MORE PLACES TO LAY YOUR HEAD

Cambodia MAKE IT HAPPEN

Sotel Phnom Penh


Shiprock rises into a starry sky above the New Mexico desert. This isolated outcrop was formed by volcanic action, but Navajo legends give it a far stranger origin


New Mexico is alive with conspiracy theories and strange stories, a place where aliens lurk and mountains arent all that they seemWORDS MATT BOLTON PHOTOGRAPHS JUSTIN FOULKES

THE TRUTH IS UT THERE

THE BADLANDS OF NEW Mexico epitomise the raw, stark beauty of the Wild West. Vast mountain ranges and plateaued mesas stand impassive in the desert haze. Ragged gorges, carved out by

the Rio Grande River, rip into the land like an open wound. Rows of aspen trees turn to a chemical yellow in the relentless southwestern sun, spotlighting the rolling ranches that are home to cattle and horses. And above it all, the innite New Mexico sky, an almost physical presence pressing down upon the horizon like a paperweight.

The state of New Mexico has so much beauty that you cant help but feel sorry for poor old Roswell, a small town in the south. The country round here is lacking almost all of the above. In fact, the only thing that Roswell country has got going for it aesthetically is atness. Nowhere does atness like Roswell. The desert here is a ruler-edge sheet of mute brown dirt, studded with the occasional spiky yucca tree, and goes on and on and on, much in the same interminable way as a pub bore.

But while Roswell might not have much, what it does have is out of this world. This town is the UFO capital of the USA perhaps the only place on Earth where aliens have actually landed. The story goes that, in 1947, a Roswell rancher named Mac Brazel came across a eld of metallic debris. The metal was unlike any he had seen before; he could pick it up, scrunch it in his hand and watch it spring back to its original shape. That same day, a local undertaker received a call from a military base asking for a supply of child-sized caskets. Arriving at the hospital, he was met by a nurse who told him in a panic that shed seen military doctors examining the

bodies of a number of child-sized grey aliens with huge saucer-like eyes.

Immediately after the incident, the military released a press release conrming that there had been a UFO crash in the area. But a week later this was retracted, and another release was written, saying that the debris was simply that of a military weather balloon. It was too late. The legend of an alien landing in Roswell spread across the country, and then the world. In 1991, a museum dedicated to the incident was opened and subsequently sparked an entire alien economy in the town. Roswell has dozens of alien souvenir shops and bars selling alien beer, all capitalising on the extraterrestrial economic stimulus. Even the streetlamps have alien eyes painted on.

Mark Briscoe is the library director of the UFO Museum and, unsurprisingly, has no doubt that aliens landed here. He believes that the military covered up evidence of the landing in to order to prevent mass hysteria, but used information from the captured aliens to develop new technology. In the 20 years after Roswell, humans invented more new technology than we had done in the previous 200, he says. The iPhone 5 is more powerful than the computer we used to land on the moon! Humans are smart, but were not that smart. Weve denitely had help. Probably through reverse engineering from alien technology.

Despite Marks adamant stance, the museum is careful to leave all options on the table, which is a relief given the somewhat aky nature of the evidence. One section even lists common ways by which fake photos of UFOs are made by photographing a lit lampshade reected through a window, hanging a hat on a string, and throwing a hub cap in the air.

The White Sands Missile Range Museum displays more than 50 types of rockets and missiles in a park just off State Road 213

A streetlamp in the guise of an alien, in Roswell.LEFT Roswells at plains. RIGHT The alleged alien landings of 1947 made headline news


THIS TOWN IS THE UFO CAPITAL OF THE USA PERHAPS THE ONLY

Alien souvenir shops abound in Roswell

PLACE ON EARTH WHERE ALIENS HAVE ACTUALLY LANDED

Traditional Navajo terracotta pottery.

RIGHT Chilli is the dening ingredient of New Mexican cuisine.

WHATEVER THE truth of the 1947 incident, there is undoubtedly something otherworldly about New

Mexico. The vast space its the fth biggest state in the US, with a population of only two million lets the imagination run free. And the innite emptiness of the brilliant sky above means that on the rare occasions when an object, such as a plane or a hot-air balloon, does pass through, the bright contrast lends it such a erce intensity that it confuses the eye. After spending time here, you can easily understand why virtually everyone you speak to has a story about seeing a light or unidentied shape in the sky.

But not everyone puts it down to extraterrestrial activity; other explanations are easily at hand. In the centre of the state, a four-hour drive from Roswell, lies an enormous segment of fenced-off atland, almost devoid of population. This is the White Sands Missile Range, the perfect place for the US military to test out their latest bombs, rockets and planes without fear of upsetting the neighbours. Everything from V2 rockets technology co-opted from the Germans after WWII and used for the rst space shuttles all the way through to modern missile defence systems has been tested here. Nearby lies Trinity, the site of the rst atomic bomb trial in 1945. And New Mexico remains at the forefront of space-age technology Richard Branson is even building his Spaceport America base here, in the hope of breaking the nal frontier of space tourism.

Unsurprisingly, with all these ying explosives zooming about, access to the missile range is restricted, save for one area: the White Sands National Monument. Here,

EVERYONE YOU SPEAK TO HAS A

STORY ABOUT SEEING A LIGHT OR

UNIDENTIFIED SHAPE IN THE SKY

The 2,100m peak of Shiprock rises eerily

over the landscape

a remarkable geological quirk has turned some 275 square miles of desert into a glistening, ice-white beach. Rolling dunes of white gypsum eroded from the surrounding mountains stretch out as far as the eye can see. It looks for all the world like Arctic tundra, and if it wasnt for the desert sun beating down, youd be excused for putting on an extra layer before leaving the car. Walking across these pristine dunes is a mind-blowing experience you feel like Lawrence of Arabia discovering Antarctica. And White Sands is certainly consistent with New Mexicos ET spirit: few landscapes would look so at home on an alien planet as this.

New Mexicos military presence provides another take on the states UFO mysteries. Could the Roswell incident have been caused by the misring of some new-fangled military equipment? Thats certainly the view of Norio Hayakawa, a Japanese-American who has spent most of the last 35 years studying the history of UFO sightings. Norio lives in the states largest city, Albuquerque, which manages to combine Route 66-style roadside motel culture, modern university life an

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Lonely Planet Traveller ME - Issue 3, 2013 Mar-Apr