Ryan Ver BerkmoesCeleste Brash, Muhammad Cohen, Mark Elliott, Trent Holden, Guyan Mitra,

John Noble, Adam Skolnick, Iain Stewart, Steve Waters

Indonesia

00a-prelims-ido9.indd 100a-prelims-ido9.indd 1 9/10/2009 9:55:36 AM9/10/2009 9:55:36 AM

SABAH

SARAWAK

KALIMANTAN

BALI

JAVA

SUMATRA

S E AS O U T H C H I N A

SelatMakassar

J A V AS E A

S E AA N D A M A N

Gulf ofThailand

SelatMalaka

DanauToba

I N D I A NO C E A N

(Saigon)HO CHI MINH CITY

Kuching

Kota Kinabalu

BANDAR SERIBEGAWAN

Samarinda

Mataram

Palangkaraya

Banjarmasin

Loksado

PontianakSintang

Pangkalanbun

SurabayaMalang

Denpasar

Solo

Bandung

Yogyakarta

Cilacap

Semarang

Balikpapan

BANGKOK

KUALALUMPURMedan

Pekanbaru

Banda Aceh

Bukit Lawang

PHNOM PENH

Jambi

Palembang

Padang

Bengkulu

Bogor

Serang JAKARTA

Bandar Lampung

Pangkal Pinang

Borobudur

Tanjung PutingNational Park

115ºE110ºE

95ºE

100ºE

PulauSumbawa

Pulau

PulauBelitung

PulauMadura

Lombok

Riau

Pulau

PulauNias

Simeulue

Christmas

PulauEnggano

PulauSiberut

MentawaiIslands

Islands

PulauBangka

Island (Aust)

BRUNEI

EASTMALAYSIA

CAMBODIA

THAILAND

MYANMAR(BURMA)

SINGAPORE

PENINSULARMALAYSIA

LAOS

VIETNAM

LOKSADO (p630)Hiking, bamboo rafting

and losing yourself in the enigmatic Pegunungan Meratus

River adventures, jungletreks and endearing rust red

orangutans

TANJUNG PUTINGNATIONAL PARK (p614)

BALI (p258)Heady fun, night-time pleasure,palaces, temples, shopping and

Indonesia's tourist heart

PULAU WEH (p409)Undisturbed beaches, visiting

whale sharks and sublime diving

BOROBUDUR (p171)Swaying palms, luminescent green

rice fields and Indonesia's mostbreathtaking monument to Buddha

DANAU TOBA (p388)Gracious Batak hospitality

and Southeast Asia's largestvolcanic lake

Bubbling volcano restingin the desolate wastes

of the Sea of Sands

GUNUNG BROMO (p245)

00a-prelims-ido9.indd 200a-prelims-ido9.indd 2 9/10/2009 9:55:41 AM9/10/2009 9:55:41 AM

PAPUAMALUKU

SULAWESI

NUSA TENGGARA

S E AA R A F U R A

CarpentariaGulf of

S U L US E A

S E AS U L A W E S I

S E AM A L U K U

S E R A MS E A

S E AB A N D A

F L O R E S S E A

S A W U S E A

S E AT I M O R

O C E A N

P A C I F I C

Jayapura

Sarmi

Manokwari

Kota Biak

Wamena

Timika

MANILA

Manado

Sorong

Fak-Fak

Kota Ternate

Kota Ambon

DILI

Palu

Gorontalo

Kendari

Rantepao

Majene

Makale

Ende

Makassar

Watampone

Darwin

Kupang

140ºE

135ºE

5ºN

15ºS

15ºN

130ºE120ºE

10ºS

5ºS

0º

10ºN

BiakPulau

Yos SudarsoPulau

Halmahera

Banda

IslandsBacan

IslandsSula

SeramPulau

Islands

IslandsTanimbar

WetarPulau

PulauFlores

TimorSumbaPulauPulau

Pulau

PALAU

PAPU

A N

EW

GU

INEA

PHILIPPINES

TIMOREAST

AUSTRALIA

diverse cultures

Trek Papua's stunninghighlands and encounter

BALIEM VALLEY (p801)

pristine coral gardens inSublime snorkelling and

TUA MARINEBUNAKEN MANADO

NATIONAL PARK (p710)

ancient sultanates

marine life and dazzling reefsUnderwater odysseys, staggering

a mystical mountain kingdomElaborate funeral rites andTANA TORAJA (p672)

and unique tribal culturebeehive clan housesRemote villages with

WEST TIMOR (p564)

set atop an ancient volcanoMultihued crater lakesKELIMUTU (p548)

an unrivalled variety of marine lifeDive translucent waters teeming withRAJA AMPAT ISLANDS (p782)

Volcanic vistas overlooking

history's fabled Spice Islands

PULAU TERNATE (p729)& PULAU TIDORE (p735)

BANDA ISLANDS (p756)

LEGEND

Secondary RoadPrimary Road

00

300 miles500 km

LEGEND

Secondary RoadPrimary Road

00

300 miles500 km

ELEVATION

4000m

2000m

1000m

500m

0

00a-prelims-ido9.indd 300a-prelims-ido9.indd 3 9/10/2009 9:55:42 AM9/10/2009 9:55:42 AM

13

Contents On the Road 4

Indonesia Highlights 6

Destination Indonesia 18

Getting Started 20

Itineraries 25

History 32

The Culture 53

Environment 73

Food & Drink 79

Java 88 History 89 Culture 92 Getting There & Away 94 Getting Around 95

JAKARTA 96 History 96 Orientation 99 Information 100 Dangers & Annoyances 101 Sights 101 Activities 106 Jakarta for Children 107 Tours 107 Festivals & Events 107 Sleeping 107 Eating 110 Drinking 112 Entertainment 113 Shopping 114 Getting There & Away 115 Getting Around 117 Around Jakarta 118

WEST JAVA 119 Jakarta to Merak 119 Merak 121

West Coast Beaches 121 Labuan 123 Tanjung Lesung 123 Gunung Krakatau 123

Natural Indonesia 125 Ujung Kulon National Park 133 Bogor 134 Around Bogor 139 Sukabumi & Selabintana 139 Pelabuhan Ratu 139 Puncak Pass Area 141 Bandung 143 North of Bandung 150 South of Bandung 152 Bandung to Pangandaran 153 Pangandaran 155 Around Pangandaran 160 Cirebon 162 Around Cirebon 165

CENTRAL JAVA 165 Cilacap 167 Purwokerto 167 Wonosobo 167 Dieng Plateau 169 Borobudur 171 Yogyakarta 176 Around Yogyakarta 191 Prambanan 194 Solo (Surakarta) 198 Around Solo 204 North Coast 207

Pekalongan 207 Semarang 209 Ambarawa 213 Bandungan 214 Gedung Songo Temples 214 Demak 214 Kudus 215 Around Kudus 217 Jepara 217 Around Jepara 218 Karimunjawa 218

EAST JAVA 220 Surabaya 220 Trowulan 228 Pulau Madura 229 Malang 233

© Lonely Planet

14 C O N T E N T S

Around Malang 238 Activities 312 Around Negara 346 Blitar 242 Courses 313 Gilimanuk 346 Panataran 243 Tours 313 Taman Nasional

Bali Barat 347Gunung Kelud 244 Festivals & Events 314 Labuhan Lalang 348Pacitan 244 Sleeping 314 CENTRAL MOUNTAINS 348 Around Pacitan 244 Eating 318 Gunung Batur 348Probolinggo 244 Drinking 320 Danau Bratan 352Gunung Bromo & Entertainment 320

Bromo-Tengger-Semeru Gunung Batukau Area 355Shopping 320National Park 245 NORTH BALI 356 Getting There & Away 321Bondowoso 249 Yeh Sanih 356Getting Around 321Ijen Plateau 250 Singaraja 357AROUND UBUD 322 Jember 252 Around Singaraja 358Bedulu 322Watu Ulo & Papuma 252 Lovina 359Pejeng 323Kalibaru 252 West of Lovina 363Tampaksiring 323Meru Betiri National Park 253 Pemuteran 363North of Ubud 324Alas Purwo National Park 254 South of Ubud 324Banyuwangi 255 EAST BALI 325 Sumatra 365

Baluran National Park 256 Coast Road to Kusamba 325 NORTH SUMATRA 370 Gianyar 325 Medan 371Bali 258 Bangli 326 Bukit Lawang 378

History 259 Semarapura (Klungkung) 327 Parapat 387 Culture 261 Around Semarapura 328 Danau Toba 388 Getting There & Away 266 Sidemen Road 328 Sibolga 394 Getting Around 267 Pura Besakih 329 PULAU NIAS 395 SOUTH BALI 269 Rendang to Amlapura Gunung Sitoli 397 Kuta & Legian 269 Road 329 Teluk Dalam 398 Seminyak 279 Gunung Agung 330 Pantai Sorake & North of Seminyak 284 Kusamba to Padangbai 331 Teluk Lagundri 398 Sanur 285 Padangbai 331 Traditional Villages 400 Benoa Harbour 289 Padangbai to Candidasa 334 ACEH 401 Bukit Peninsula 289 Tenganan 334 Banda Aceh 404 DENPASAR 295 Candidasa 335 Pulau Weh 409 Orientation 296 Candidasa to Amlapura 336 Aceh’s West Coast 412 Information 296 Amlapura 337 Pulau Banyak 414 Sights 296 Tirta Gangga 338 Gayo Highlands 415 Festivals & Events 296 Amed & the Far East Coast 339 Gunung Leuser

National Park 417Sleeping 297 Kubu Region 341 WEST SUMATRA 419 Eating 297 Tulamben 341 Padang 420Shopping 297 Tulamben to Yeh Sanih 342 Around Padang 425Getting There & Away 297 WEST BALI 342 Mentawai Islands 425Getting Around 300 Tanah Lot 342 Bukittinggi 431NUSA LEMBONGAN & Pura Taman Ayun 343

ISLANDS 300 Around Bukittinggi 435Marga 343 Nusa Lembongan 301 Danau Maninjau 437Tabanan 343 Nusa Ceningan 304 Kerinci Valley 440South of Tabanan 343 Nusa Penida 304 BENGKULU 444North of Tabanan 344 UBUD 306 Bengkulu 444Balian Beach & Orientation 306 Lalang-Linggah 344 Northern Bengkulu 447

Information 306 Jembrana Coast 345 Pulau Enggano 447

Sights 307 Negara 346 RIAU 448

C O N T E N T S 15

Pekanbaru 448 Around Bima 527 WEST KALIMANTAN 595 Around Pekanbaru 451 Sape 527 Pontianak 595 Dumai Riau Islands

451 451

KOMODO & RINCA ISLANDS 528

Sungai Kapuas Singkawang

602 606

Pulau Batam 451 Komodo 529 Around Singkawang 607 Pulau Bintan 455 Rinca 532 Ketapang 608 Other Riau Islands JAMBI

459 460

FLORESLabuanbajo

532 534

Gunung Palung National Park 610

Jambi 460 Ruteng 538 CENTRAL KALIMANTAN 611

Muara Jambi 462 Around Ruteng 540 Pangkalan Bun 611

SOUTH SUMATRA Palembang Danau Ranau Krui

463 463 467 467

Bajawa Around Bajawa Boawae Riung

541 543 544 545

Sungai Lamandau & Sungai Balantikan Kumai Tanjung Puting National Park

613 614

614 Pasemah Highlands 467 Pulau Bangka 468 LAMPUNG 469 Bandarlampung 470 Way Kambas National Park 472 Kalianda 473 Gunung Krakatau 474 Bakauheni 474

Ende Kelimutu Moni Around Moni Maumere Around Maumere Larantuka Around Larantuka

545 548 549 551 552 554 556 557

Palangka Raya Sebangau National Park Sungai Kahayan Muara Teweh SOUTH KALIMANTAN Banjarmasin Around Banjarmasin Marabahan &

618 621 621 623 623 623 629

Bukit Barisan Selatan National Park 474

SOLOR & ALOR ARCHIPELAGOS 557

Margasari Kandangan

629 629

Nusa Tenggara History Wildlife Climate Getting There & Around

475 476 476 476

477

Adonara Lembata Alor WEST TIMOR Kupang Around Kupang Soe

558 558 561 564 567 570 571

Negara Upau Loksado Around Loksado South Coast EAST KALIMANTAN Balikpapan

630 630 630 631 632 632 632

LOMBOK 478 Around Soe 572 Around Balikpapan 636

Mataram 483 Kefamenanu 573 Samarinda 637

Around Mataram 486 Around Kefamenanu 574 Kutai National Park 641

Lembar & the Southwestern Peninsula Senggigi Gili Islands North & Central Lombok Sapit Gunung Rinjani Tetebatu South of Tetebatu South Lombok

487 488 492 504 506 506 510 511 511

Atambua & Around ROTESUMBAWaingapu Around Waingapu East Sumba South-Central Sumba Waikabubak West Sumba

574 575

577 581 583 583 584 584 586

Tenggarong Sungai Mahakam Upper Mahakam Sungai Kedang Kepala

Sungai Belayan Berau Pulau Derawan & Sangalaki Archipelago Sungai Kayan & Apokayan Highlands

641 642 644 646

647 647

648

650

East Lombok SUMBAWA

515 516 Kalimantan 590

Krayan Hulu Sebuku Sembakung

650 651

West Sumbawa 517 History 591 Tarakan 651

Sumbawa Besar Around Sumbawa Besar

519 521

Culture Wildlife

592 593 Sulawesi 654

East Sumbawa 523 Getting There & Away 593 History 656 Bima & Raba 525 Getting Around 593 Climate 656

16 C O N T E N T S

Getting There & Away 656 National Park 704 Kei Islands 763 Getting Around 657 Manado 704 Tanimbar Islands 769

SOUTH SULAWESI 657 Pulau Bunaken 710 Southwestern Maluku 771

Makassar 659 Tomohon 714 Aru 771

Around Makassar 666 Around Tomohon 714

Pantai Bira 667 Danau Tondano 715 Papua 772 Pulau Lihukan & Airmadidi 715 History 774Pulau Betang 670 Bitung 715 Climate 775Pulau Selayar 670 Pulau Lembeh & Wildlife 776Taka Bone Rate 670 the Lembeh Strait 715

Culture 777Watampone 670 Tangkoko-Batuangas Dua

Saudara Nature Reserve 716 Getting There & Away 777Sengkang 671

Sangir-Talaud Islands 717 Getting Around 778Pare Pare 672

SOUTHEAST SULAWESI 717 WEST PAPUA 780 Palopo 672 Kolaka 718 Sorong 780

TANA TORAJA 672 Kendari 719 Raja Ampat Islands 782

Rantepao 673 Around Kendari 720 Fak-Fak 785

Makale 679 Raha 721 Around Fak-Fak 785

Around Tana Toraja 679 Around Raha 721 Manokwari 786

MAMASA VALLEY 683 Bau Bau 722 Pegunungan Arfak 788

Mamasa 684 Tukangbesi Islands 722 Cenderawasih Bay

Around Mamasa 684 National Park 789 CENTRAL SULAWESI 686 THE NORTH 789 Maluku 724Pendolo 686 Jayapura 789

History 725Tentena 687 Sentani 792 Culture 727Poso 689 Around Jayapura & Sentani 794 Getting There & Around Poso 690 Pulau Biak 796Away 727

Lore Lindu National Park 690 Pulau Yapen 800Getting Around 727 Palu 691 THE BALIEM VALLEY 801 NORTH MALUKU 728 Donggala & Tanjung Wamena 802Pulau Ternate 729Karang 693

Around Wamena 806Pulau Tidore 735Kolonedale 694 Baliem Valley – South 807South of Tidore 736Teluk Tomori 694 Baliem Valley – Northeast 810Pulau Halmahera 737Morowali Nature Reserve 694 Baliem Valley – Northwest 811Pulau Morotai 740Luwuk 695 Danau Habbema 811SULA & BURU 741 Banggai Islands 695 Lani Country 811Sula Islands 741Tanjung Api National Park 695 Yali Country & Beyond 812Pulau Buru 742Ampana 695 THE SOUTH 813 PULAU AMBON 742 TOGEAN ISLANDS 696 Merauke 813Kota Ambon 742Pulau Batu Daka 698 Wasur National Park 814Around Pulau Ambon 749Pulau Kadidiri 699 The Asmat Region 815LEASE & SERAM 751 Pulau Una Una 700 Korowai & Kombai Regions 816 Lease Islands 751Pulau Togean 700

Pulau Seram 754Pulau Tomken & Pulau Bolilangga 700 BANDA ISLANDS 756 Directory 817 Pulau Malenge 700 Bandaneira 757 Accommodation 817 Pulau Walea Kodi 700 Pulau Gunung Api 761 Activities 819 NORTH SULAWESI 701 Pulau Banda Besar 761 Business Hours 823 Gorontalo 702 Pulau Hatta 762 Children 823 Around Gorontalo 703 Pulau Ai 762 Climate Charts 826 Kotamobagu 704 Pulau Run (Rhun) 763 Courses 826 Bogani Nani Wartabone SOUTHERN MALUKU 763 Customs Regulations 827

P A C I F I C O C E A NS O U T H

S E A C H I N A

I N D I A N O C E A N

T I M O R S E A

p260 BALI

p773 PAPUA

p725 MALUKU

p655 SULAWESI

p591 KALIMANTANpp366–7

SUMATRA

NUSA TENGGARA pp476–7

JAVA pp90–1

Jakarta

East Timor

Malaysia

Brunei

C O N T E N T S 17

Dangers & Annoyances 827 Further Reading 858Transport 842Discount Cards 829 IN INDONESIA 858

Embassies & Consulates 829 Availability of GETTING THERE & AWAY 842

Festivals & Events 830 Entering the Country 842 Health Care 858

Food 832 Air 842 Infectious Diseases 858

Gay & Lesbian Travellers 832 Land 844 Traveller’s Diarrhoea 861

Holidays 832 Sea 845 Environmental Hazards 862

Insurance 833 Tours 845 Women’s Health 864

Internet Access 833 GETTING AROUND 847 Traditional Medicine 864

Legal Matters 833 Air 847 Bicycle 848Maps 834 Language 865 Boat 848Money 834 Bus 850Photography & Video 835 Glossary 871Car & Motorcycle 851Post 835 Hitching 853Shopping 836 Local Transport 853 The Authors 875Solo Travellers 837 Minibus (Bemo) 854Telephone 837 Tours 854Time 838 Behind the Scenes 878 Train 855Toilets 838

Tourist Information 839 Index 888 Travellers with Disabilities 839 Health 856 Visas 839 BEFORE YOU GO 856 GreenDex 907Volunteering 840 Insurance 856 Women Travellers 841 Vaccinations 856 Work 841 Internet Resources 858 Map Legend 908

Regional Map Contents

© Lonely Planet