Great Taste Magazine 2012 May/Jun Issue

Presorted StandardU.S. Postage

PAIDPermit No. 400Laguna Beach CA

GOOD BYE FOIE GRAS? 11 NIGHTMARE SERVICE 19 WHERE THERE’S SMOKE 22

MAY • JUNE 2012

California Beef Council4640 Northgate Blvd., Suite 115

Sacramento, CA 95834916.925.BEEF (2333) Phone

916.925.8155 [email protected]

www.CalBeef.org

For mouthwatering beef recipes, nutrition information, wait staff sales tips, training guides, innovative menuing ideas and much more, contact:

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of restaurant patrons would tell friends about a great beef meal vs. chicken or pork.65 *%

www.BeefFoodservice.com

www.ExploreBeef.com

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F ROM TH E ED I TOR

MAY • JUNE 2012 | great taste 3

T ER I’STAKE

Smoke gets in our eyes and welike it! This issue’s BBQ themewill make your mouth water. Ourcontributors and sponsors givepractical and fun suggestionsfor making your next outdoor

cooking the best ever, and mixologist JoelBlack tells how to smoke your own spiritsto pair with your next wood fired meal.

Alisal Ranch, set in the pastoralwonderland of the Santa Inez Valley, is ajourney back in time. Horseback riding,hay rides and cookouts were just part ofthe BBQ Bootcamp experience heldannually at the ranch. This luxury cowboystyle included wine tasting from localvineyards, spacious guest rooms and finedining. We learned from veteran grillmasters and had hands-on practice intechnique and seasoning to recreateflavors enjoyed by California’s ownvaqueros.

As always, I love to hear from you. Feelfree to share your recipes and techniqueswith me at [email protected]. Cheers!

On T he Cove r

C O N T E N T Con t en t

MO

RE T

HA

N C

HEFS

Out of the kitchen

and into the writer’s

chair, these talented

chefs share their

expertise with us as

our Culinary Advisors.

F E ATURES14 THRILL OF THE GRILL

Chefs share BBQ tips and techniques

plus BBQ Bootcamp at Alisal Ranch

highlights.

17 CHEF DAVID COLEMAN

Michael’s on Naples serves modern

Italian food, all made in house from

scratch.

I N S I D E5 BOOKS

The Art of Beef Cutting, a meat

professional’s guide to butchering and

merchandising.

THE B I Z11 TRENDS

Foie gras — a last hurrah to an

underground alternative.

19 FRONT OF THE HOUSE

How bad does service need to get until

someone pays attention?

20 OPERATIONS

Managing four restaurants with one iPhone

21 BEVERAGES

The search for the perfect steak wine

DEPARTMENTS4 PRODUCE PICK OF THE MONTH

4 BAKING RACK

7 SWEET SPOT

7 THE FISH MARKET

9 CHEESE PICK OF THE MONTH

9 HOW GREEN ARE YOU

12 SUR LE MENU

Corporate Executive Chef

Lazy Dog Cafe

GABRIEL CALIENDO

Executive Chef

KATIE AVERILL

Executive Chef

Kelly’s

JASON STEIN

}Anatra Due Volte, Duo of duck — seared breast and confit leg with new potatoes, bloodoranges, celery heart, spring garlic puree and reduction sauce by Chef David Coleman ofMichael’s on Naples in Long Beach, (recipe on page 13). See more purees in Sur Le Menuon page 12. Photo by Michael Rutt.

For the continuation of these articles,

recipes and more, visit www.great-taste.net

P R O D U C E

PICKOF THE MONTH

KNOWN FOR ITS PEAR-LIKE SHAPE, THE

PINKERTON AVOCADO IS A BEST PICK

DURING WINTER. Bred by (you guessed it)

the Pinkerton family in Ventura County, CA,

this avocado was developed to ripen early

winter through spring, offering the same rich

taste and velvety texture as the Hass,

presenting a new take on this creamy, buttery

sensation.

The Pinkerton Avocado has a thick, green

skin with a scant amount of pebbling that

deepens as it ripens. The fruit’s small pit

means more meat per size and weight.

Besides guacamole, salad and condiment

applications, avocados are great for

smoothies, shakes, and even desserts.

Avocado-chocolate truffle, anyone?

Pair avocado with a variety of white and red

wines depending on the dish.

See Great-Taste.net for Chilled avocado

soup with crab recipe by Chef Andrew Copley,

of Copley’s on Palm Canyon in Palm Springs.

The produce hunter has developed close

relationships with family farmers who are

committed to sustainable agriculture,

personable production, and propagation and

promotion of produce with exceptional flavor.

www.theproducehunter.com.

PinkertonAvocados

I N S I D E

4 www.great-taste.net | MAY • JUNE 2012

Avocado soup with crab

MAY I START BY SAYING THE TERM POPSICLE HAS A TRADEMARK. If I were part of the Popsicle

Company, I swear I would have a full time job collecting cash from people using that term because

that’s what we call them—POPSICLES. So regarding these uh, frozen-treats-on-a-stick, I believe they

need a rebirth. This all started when I bought an instant “frozen-treats-on-a-stick maker” for my son for

Christmas. Unlike most gifts we have either outgrown or stuck in the closet, we love our pop maker. It

freezes in two minutes, and if you are inclined to act like a 14 year old, you can watch them freeze

right on the counter. My son’s very first effort was raspberry lemonade, with real raspberries and banana

slices dropped into them. I must say they looked professional and pretty cool. We then moved on to

smoothie pops, juice pops, yogurt pops, cocktail pops, and “soda pops.” I think I’m onto something

with “soda pops”.

Those of you who are pushing 40, like me, remember waiting all day and then all night for those old

school plastic forms in our freezers to DO SOMETHING? How times have changed. It has to be the next

big thing. Personally, I believe other trends like cupcakes and cake pops have had more than their 15

minutes of fame (they were always yucky and mushy inside anyway). If I had a fast-casual concept or

a food truck, I’d be making these for retail sale right now. The possibilities are endless and they would

surely fly out the door. They are fast, easy, pretty, and the food cost is cheap, especially when compared

to other frozen desserts like ice cream. Spring is here and summer is on its way. I recommend giving

them a try. Contact Chef Katie Averill at [email protected].

THE POPSICLES ARE COMING by Chef Katie Averill

T H E BAK ING

RACK

www.manchesterfarms.com

I N S I D E

B O O K S BOOKS

Here’s the beef: when it comes to cutting meat, few know what they’re doing. Luckily, Kari Underly does;her talent as a third generation butcher is shared throughout the pages of her guide to protein, The Artof Beef Cutting, a meat professional’s guide to butchering and merchandising.A leading expert in meat education, Underly guides readers through fundamentals to master cuts.

Each cut is thoroughly explained in step-by-step fashion and accompanied by a descriptive color photo.International and ethnic cuts are also provided, along with the best cooking methods for each section.

Chapters on tools, selling for profit, and safe handling add to the beef cutting experience.This is the ideal training manual for anyone wishing to master this craft, from industry professional to culinary student to ardent home-cook. To order

this book and other great publications, visit www.great-taste.net.


SINCE 2000

PUBLISHER/CHIEF EDITOR/PROPRIETORTeri Williams

EDITORIALChief Editor

Teri Williams

Contributors

Chef Katie Averill

Joel Black

Chef Gabriel Caliendo

Scotty Daeng

Suzanna Hoang

Aaron Kennaday

Chris Kern

Linda Mensinga

Sarah Ruiz

Chef Jason Stein

Barbara Wheatley

ARTArt Direction/Design

Lisa Brink

[email protected]

PHOTOPhotography Editor

Michael Rutt

[email protected]

ADVERTISINGAdvertising Sales

714-960-0534

21851 Newland St #217

Huntington Beach, CA 92646

714-960-0534 fax 714-475-5869

[email protected]

www.melissas.com

I N S I D E


by Chef Gabriel Caliendo

The Spice Rack

I LOVE BBQ JUST AS MUCH AS THE NEXT GUY (my buddy Rodney is a real

diehard for authentic BBQ) but sometimes, it’s not realistic to slowly smoke

meat for 24 hours just to get some BBQ love. Let’s look at some everyday

options for achieving BBQ-like flavors and textures without the smoker.

The most important part of good BBQ is the texture. If I’m eating ribs, pork

shoulder or brisket, it has to be tender. I mean really falling off the bone, easily

shredded by hand tender. BBQ achieves this goal by slow smoking for many

hours, usually overnight, but unless you have a smoker and are comfortable

going to sleep as it smolders next to your house, you will never be able to

authentically achieve the correct texture. My favorite alternative method is to

start with a nice long rub. The rub depends on the meat, but always contains

some kosher salt, chile pepper, black pepper, granulated garlic, granulated

onions, brown sugar, and fresh thyme. I mix the seasonings, rub the protein,

and allow it to sit overnight. The next day, I dump a bottle of beer into the pan

and roast the meat uncovered for half an hour to get it started, then cover it in

aluminum foil and cook for several hours until extremely tender. Once cooked,

eat it immediately or cool it and reserve for later.

The second feature is the smoke flavor. I’m not a huge fan of liquid smoke

products because they kind of make me nauseous. I achieve smoke flavor by

grilling my protein over medium heat, ideally, over a wood grill or BBQ, but you

can get a smoke flavor on a GAS GRILL. I know, I know. I can hear Rodney (my

BBQ competition friend) yelling in my ear. The fat will melt off and burn,

causing smoke to come up and permeate the meat. How many of you cook over

wood regularly anyway? Cover the BBQ/grill to capture the smoke, and you are

good to go! This works for the pre-roasted items I mentioned above or items

that are cooked to order like Tri-tip, London broil, or sausages. Oh sausages—

my favorite.

The final step is the sauce - whatever sauce makes you happy. I like a high

vinegar style for my pork and a sweeter molasses style for my beef.

I’m sure I’ve gained a few friends and a few skeptics today, but the fact is

when we’re hangin’ out drinking a beer and enjoying life while eating some

sausages and ribs, you’re not going to care how I cooked them. Trust me.

Chef Gabriel Caliendo is the VP of Food & Beverage and Principal of Lazy

Dog Café.

GOT SMOKE?

www.designsmorgasbord.com

www.great-taste.net


I N S I D E

by Suzanna Hoang

SWEE T S PO T

MACARONS ARE DAINTY, CLASSIC FRENCH

ALMOND-MERINGUE SANDWICH COOKIES THAT,

TO ME, PLEASE ALL THE SENSES. Not to be

confused with macaroons, they are the quintessential

dessert in a tiny package. These handheld cookies

are not too sweet, and are delicately crunchy and

chewy all in one bite and when repared with a little

patience and practice, they bake off with a smooth,

clean shell. Experiment with flavors and fillings to

your heart’s desire. My personal favorite: adding

chopped nuts between the sandwiched buttercream

layer for another level of texture. Amazing.

Almond flour can be found in most markets. The

finer the grain, the smoother the cookie surface will

be. You can also pulse blanched almonds to a fine

consistency. Also note: room temperature egg whites

whip and thicken easier.

TRADITIONAL FRENCH MACARONS

Yields 35-40 sandwiches

1 1/2 C Almond flour

1 3/4 C Confectioners’ sugar

1/2 C Fresh egg whites - from 4 to 5 large eggs

1/4 C Granulated sugar

Pinch of salt

Sift almond flour and confectioners’ sugar through a

sieve and set aside. In a stand-mixer bowl fitted with

a whisk attachment, whip egg whites on low for a few

seconds until foamy, then gradually add granulated

sugar. Continue to whip until whites become stiff

peaked, about 5 to 8 minutes.

Fold in sifted ingredients in 3 to 4 increments.

Add a few drops of food coloring and/or flavoring at

this point, if desired. Be quick but gentle, and be

sure to scrape down flour that sticks to sides of bowl.

Batter should not be too thin or too thick.

Line 3 baking sheets with parchment paper. In a

piping bag fitted with a 1/2 inch plain tip, fill with

batter. Pipe out 1 inch mounds about 1 1/2 to 2”

apart on the sheet. To avoid a peak on the cookie

surface, flick the pastry tip to the side when

finishing, instead of straight up. Let batter rest on

sheets for at least an hour to form a dry skin on its

surface. Meanwhile, preheat oven to 325°F.

Bake macarons for 10 – 12 minutes, rotating

after 5 minutes. Finished cookies should be smooth

and very lightly golden. A characteristic, crackly

ringlet that circles the flat side of the cookie should

form, called ‘feet’. Let rest for 15 minutes before

filling and sandwiching.

Macarons can be refrigerated for up to 3 days and

unfilled macarons shells can be frozen for 2 weeks.

Traditional French Macarons THE EUROPEAN SEA BASS IS A SILVER

SKINNED FISH found in European seas and

saltwater lakes. The fish has a firm texture, small

flake, white color, and mild flavor; it ranges in

size from 1 to 3 pounds whole. It is marketed

under many names, such as Mediterranean Sea

Bass, Branzino (in Northern Italy), Spigola or

Ragno (in other parts of Italy), Lubina or Robalo

(in Spain) and Loup de Mer or Bar Commun (in

France). Overfishing has made this fish nearly

non-existent in the Mediterranean, its native

habitat, so today sea bass cultivation flourishes

through farming in the pristine waters off the

coast of Greece.

This versatile fish is becoming more popular

in the States and appears more on menus from

fine to casual dining establishments. There are

many ways to prepare this great tasting fish from

the simplest method of searing the fillets on high

heat leaving the skin on which is edible, thin and

quite desirable, to the more complex tasks of

baking and grilling the fish whole. Leaving the

fish whole creates beautiful presentation along

with a moister, softer texture because the bones

and skin are left in place.

My favorite cooking method is to grill the

whole fish. I make a pocket cut on the top of the

fish and remove the dorsal fin and bone structure

from the top, making the fish into a pouch with

the belly intact. I stuff the fish with morels,

leeks, herbs, fennel or citrus; then truss it with

butcher twine and grill.

Jason Stein is Executive Chef at Kelly’s in

Long Beach.

by Chef Jason Stein

EUROPEAN SEA BASS

The Fish Market


I N S I D E

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA

HELPING OUR CUSTOMERS SUCCEEDFood Safety

Variety

Quality

Cost Control

The Fresh Produce Specialists

Call Toll-Free: 1-800-252-9165

www.FreshPoint.com

www.TheProduceHunter.com

155 North Orange Avenue, City of Industry, CA 91744

www.mapleleaffarms.com

www.freshpoint.com


I N S I D E

Cheese Pick of the MonthTHERE ARE MANY GREAT PYRAMIDS OF THE WORLD, but you don’t have to travel far to taste the

most delicious one. Piper’s Pyramide is a soft, creamy cheese molded into the traditional pyramid

shape, minus the top. Made by Capriole Farmstead, a certified humane goat farm, Piper’s Pyramide

can also be identified by the fiery red dusting of paprika found under the wrinkly white rind. This little

monument has a musty edge that combines with buttery sweet flavors, making it the perfect

combination for sweet, tart berries. For a full meal, try it crumbled into a tangy salad with roasted

beets. Pair it with light, sparkling wines when young, and sweeter whites like moscatos when more

mature. For more information on Capriole piper pyramides and other cheese, please contact your

FreshPoint representative.

CAPRIOLE PIPER PYRAMIDES

HOW GREEN ARE YOU?

PAUL MARTIN’S® AMERICAN GRILL SPECIALIZES

IN FRESH, HAND-CRAFTED CUISINE sourced from

local sustainable producers whenever possible at

their Roseville, El Segundo, and Irvine restaurants.

They also focus on reducing their environmental

footprint with advanced water, energy, and recycling

systems. Spokesman Brian Bennet took time to

answer our questions:

WHAT ARE YOUR FOOD SOURCING AND

DISPOSAL PRACTICES?

At Paul Martin’s, our mantra is “Eat Organic. Believe

in sustainable. Buy Local. Love Fresh.” We believe in

buying from the market by the season, primarily from

local farms in California. All of the dishes at Paul

Martin’s are hand-crafted with organic ingredients

whenever possible, depending on what’s available

seasonally. We’re dedicated to sourcing the very best

fresh produce, such as our Bloomsdale Spinach from

Heirloom Organic Gardens in Hollister, CA; something

not often found on restaurant menus that we are

grateful to offer year-round. Paul Martin’s only serves

all-natural meats and sustainable seafood.

Food waste is minimal; our waste collector system

uses recycled water to reduce bulk food waste from the

entire day into a mass that weighs less than 10 pounds.

WHAT ABOUT WATER EFFICIENCY?

We are committed to water efficiency in both our

kitchen and our restrooms. To help conserve water

we use low-flow spray nozzles and toilets. Our

dishwashers use recycled water for steam and are 90

percent more efficient than standard dishwashers.

WHAT DO YOU RECYCLE?

Paper, cardboard, cans, glass, and plastic.

HOW ABOUT ENERGY?

Our commitment to being environmentally friendly

extends from the kitchen to the dining room at Paul

Martin’s, where we use state-of-the-art computer-

controlled air conditioning and heating systems.

Natural gas and energy efficient appliances such as our

dishwashers, as well as low voltage LED and fluorescent

lighting; all help to reduce energy consumption.

USE OF CHEMICALS?

There is very little use of chemicals at Paul Martin’s

and what we do use is eco-friendly. For example, we

use detergents sourced through Ecolab.

HOW DO GREEN PRACTICES SAVE MONEY,

IF THEY DO?

“Green” practices pay off in more ways than one.

Here at Paul Martin’s, we support “green” principles

because they are good for the environment,

encourage waste reduction and conservation

practices. Consequently, we do find “green”

practices reduce costs and make good business

sense; for example, our lighting uses immeasurably

less energy and our dishwashers are 90 percent

more efficient.

WHAT DO YOU PLAN TO DO NEXT, IF ANYTHING?

We are always looking for new ways to be more

energy efficient and conserve in our restaurant… It’s

part of our philosophy!

Paul Martin Walks the Talk in Green Practices

www.rtrbakery.com


T R ENDS

www.newportmeat.com

www.cheftec.com

T R ENDS


“I DON’T TELL PEOPLE WHAT THEY CAN’T EAT,”

says Playground Chef/Owner Jason Quinn, yet the

California legislature passed a bill in 2004 that

becomes law on July 1, 2012 that essentially tells

everyone in the state not to eat foie gras. The bill

prohibits, “force feeding a bird for the purpose of

enlarging the bird’s liver beyond normal size.” It

also authorizes, “…a citation… in an amount up

to $1,000 per incident, per day.”

This “one-of-a-kind, irreplaceable culinary

treasure” foie gras, French for fatty liver, will soon

be available in all states but California.

As foie is a high priced luxury item, most

restaurants and diners will not be affected by the

ban, but the impact of a law prohibiting the sale of

a product — one safely produced and consumed for

the last 5,000 years — may disturb anyone that has

studied Prohibition or believes in individual choice.

Hudson Valley Foie Gras spokesman Marcus

Henley notes that since the measure passed, the

feeding practice has been studied extensively.

Result? The American Veterinary Medical

Association refused to declare foie gras farming

detrimental to animal welfare. He also noted,

“Eleven other states have introduced and rejected

similar legislation.”

Henley describes the tube feeding as being

natural and humane. The feeding lasts 21 days,

between age 12 and 15 weeks and mimics the

migratory adaptation of waterfowl that allows them

to store fat in the liver prior to migration. Duck and

other migratory birds gorge themselves in the fall

to prepare for long fly times.

Henley’s views on the ducks care are

underscored by chefs all over the state. La Toque

Chef/Owner Ken Frank buys exclusively from

Artisan Sonoma and believes the ducks are treated

well and are not hurt or bothered by the feeding.

He visited the farm several times over the last 20

years and notes, “The ducks have a very strong

bond of trust with their feeders. They exhibit no

fear or ‘flight’ and they have plenty of room to

move about, flap their wings and socialize.”

David Coleman, Executive Chef at Michael’s on

Naples in Long Beach, believes farmers that raise

animals have more compassion and understanding

of animal needs than those not involved. He

states, “Most people are willfully ignorant about

where their meat comes from. If they were to see

an animal being slaughtered, they may decide not

to eat meat.”

Visit Great-Taste.net to read views for and

against the ban, discover some great foie gras

recipes like Chef David Coleman’s Foie gras

tortellini and Chef Brian Redzikowski’s foie gras

doughnut (pictured here.) You can also sign a

petition that asks state legislature to reconsider

this ban and look into the scientific facts.

Foie Gras: Last Hurrah to Underground Alternative

Fresh Origins

1/3 Pg

by Linda Mensinga

www.freshorigins.com

SUR L E MENU

Pureés

The Cannery, Newport BeachAlmond-Crusted Goat Cheese Crostini,sundried tomato-roasted garlic pureé ..$12

The Cellar, FullertonBroiled King Salmon over potato andparsnip pureé, finished with a sun-driedtomato cream sauce ..........................$28

Studio at Montage Resort, Laguna BeachButter-poached Maine lobster, handmadepasta, pumpkin-citrus pureé, roasted pears,truffle sauce .....................................$65

Anaheim White House Couscous Mediterranean, small grainMoroccan in vegetable broth, assortment ofseasonal vegetables, lentil pureé ........$19

Haven Gastropub, Orange & PasadenaCrisp Braised Pork Belly, Saison AleReduction, celery root pureé, fennel,mache, Dijon mustard microgreens, applevinaigrette ........................................$20

Nobhill Tavern, Las VegasGrilled Quail, caraway and black pepperrub, lemon pureé, arugula and radish..$20

Studio at Montage Resort, Laguna BeachDuck breast, sunchoke pureé, petitespinach, pomegranate gastrique .........$51

Raya at The Ritz-Carlton, Laguna Niguel Lobster Tacos, flour tortilla, black beanpurée, chile de arbol salsa, avocado,cilantro ..............................................$9

Tangata at Bowers Museum, Santa AnaMain sea scallops pan-seared, melted leeks-potato purée, clam chowder sauce .....$22

Leatherby’s Café Rouge, Costa MesaSalmon Creek Farms pork, Grilled chop,crispy trotter, spring garlic potato pureé,spring vegetables baby onions, natural pork jus............................................$30

Sir Winston’s Restaurant at the QueenMary, Long Beach Sea Scallops, maittake dust, baby carrots,cauliflower pureé, soy wasabi buerre blanc ..............................................$35

Lola Gaspar, Santa AnaShort Rib Raviolo, truffle butter, wintersquash pureé, parmigiano-reggiano, pine nuts..........................................$11

Animal Restaurant, Los AngelesVeal brains, vadouvan, apricot pureé, carrot ..............................................$14

Watermarc Restaurant, Laguna BeachVeal chop, eggplant pureé, sweet pepperbutter ..............................................$38

Raya at The Ritz-Carlton, Laguna Niguel Vegetarian Arepe, squash-sweet corn sauté,huitlacoche purée, whipped requesoncheese, fried epazote.........................$18

Apureé can be made and served countless ways to compliment alltaste buds. It can be the main component of an appetizer likeroasted eggplant in baba ghanoush; served on the side like a smoothand buttery mashed potato, fresh basil and garlic-infused into apesto sauce; or used as a presentational element like red raspberryswooshed elegantly across a white plate. With an unlimited array of

ingredients, pureés can be used to add flavor, volume, texture, or overall visualappeal to any recipe or dish. Pureés are generally prepared with a blender or foodprocessor and can be used raw, cooked prior, or cooked after a dish is finished.

Chef David Coleman’s green garlic pureé adds a welcome element of flavor tohis carefully roasted and confit whole duck with an orange reduction sauce.Peruse through our handful of pureés local chefs have added to their menus tocompliment an array of protein and vegetables. We won’t blame you for salivating;sur le menu!


Crisp Braised Pork Belly, Haven Gastropub, Orange & Pasadena

SUR L E MENU


Duo of DuckSeared breast and confit leg with new potatoes, blood oranges, celery heart, spr ing garl ic pureeand reduction sauce

COVER RECIPE

BY DAVID COLEMAN

1 Whole duck - 5 lbsSeparate breasts from duck leaving all skin

and fat around breast intact. Remove legs

from duck at joint, leaving in bones, leave skin

and fat on the leg.

1 Breast (for 2)2 T Dark balsamic vinegar

Salt and pepperMarinate breast in balsamic overnight. Season

and place breast skin side down in a medium

hot pan and render down about 10 minutes,

flip and sear another 2 minutes. Remove and

rest for 8-10 minutes.

1 Confit leg (for 2)2 Bay leaves4 Cloves1 T Salt1 Pint Rendered duck fatCoat duck legs in salt, crushed bay leaves,

and clove; cover and refrigerate 1 day.

Remove, rinse well, and dry with a clean

towel. Place legs and rendered fat into

cooking vessel small enough to cover legs

completely with fat. Place in oven at 200

degrees for 6 hours. Remove from oven and

allow to cool in fat at room temperature.

Refrigerate in fat at least one more day, or up

to a month. Remove from refrigerator 2-3

hours before using; remove from fat wiping

away excess fat and any gelatin attached to

leg. (Gelatin tends to hold the excess salt and

can over salt your dish) In a very hot pan

place duck legs skin side down with 1/2

tablespoon of duck fat. Place into oven

preheated to 450 degrees for about 7 minutes.

REDUCTION SAUCE1 Duck - legs and breasts removed

and reserved

1 Onion - quartered, skin removed1 Carrot - peeled and quartered2 Ribs Celery - cut in half2 Cloves Garlic1 T Tomato paste2 C Sweet white wine

Juice and zest of 2 orangesRemove all skin and fat from the bones and

place the bones in a roasting pan in oven at

450 degrees for about 30 minutes until

brown. In last 20 minutes of browning add all

other ingredients to roasting pan except wine.

When finished place all into a small pot and

reserve. Drain of any excess fat from the

roasting pan, add wine and place pan on a

burner set on high. Place pan on a burner set

on high. When wine begins to boil use a

wooden spoon to scrape the fond from the

braising pan as the wine reduces. Reduce to a

quarter of a cup. Pour remaining wine and

scrapings into the reserved pot and cover all

with water. Bring to a simmer and allow stock

to stay at this stage 3-4 hours. Remove from

heat and strain through a chinois into another

small pot. Add the juice of 2 oranges, 2 sprigs

of thyme, and reduce to about 1/2 cup. Add

salt and orange zest to taste.

GREEN GARLIC PUREE3 Green garlic - stem and clove

attached

1 1/2 C MilkSalt - to tasteTiny amount cayenne and lime

Separate green from the white and discard any

brown parts of the garlic. Chop the white parts

into small pieces and allow to simmer in milk

for about 45 minutes or until soft, being careful

not to over reduce; cool. Chop the green tops

into a medium dice and place into boiling water

for no more than 2 minutes, remove and place

into ice water immediately; drain when cool

removing all excess water. Combine greens, half

of milk and garlic whites in blender and puree.

Add remaining milk gradually as needed. (Note:

you cannot remove milk after you have begun

puree, consistency of your puree is dependent

on this). Pass mixture through a tamis and

season to taste with salt, cayenne and lime.

www.lincopictureframing.com

Every region of the United States has three things in common: baseball, apple pie,and BBQ. Texas has beef, the Carolinas have pork, Kansas City has sauce,Memphis has ribs and California has Tri Tip. What’s better than the tender textureand smoky flavor of anything cooked over wood and fire? Versions of preferredsauce, rub, protein and wood vary greatly and are defended regionally. The

technique is lavished on anything from veggies to the most sophisticated protein with brilliantresults. As Lucille’s Smokehouse Bar-B-Cue Executive Chef Chris Ferrell points out, “Mosttraditional BBQ is made with the least expensive ingredients; only time and technique arerequired to make them delicious.”

One meat not often thought of is bologna. Tim DeCinces, managing partner of TustinRoadhouse and Beach Pit BBQ comments, “A whole log of bologna in the smoker for 8 hoursis just awesome. Smoked Bologna is a Southern delicacy.” His restaurant in Tustin recentlyadded southern dishes and full service at dinner to make it a more desirable eveningdestination. “The Tustin Garage is such an amazing building. We wanted to do more at night.It will still be casual and all, but people want to be taken care of at the end of their day andusually like the option of a cocktail. The new menu items are going very well. People areraving,” he says. How could they not, with dishes such as Roadhouse 3-Way Double Cut PorkChop - brined for a day, smoked for a day then hand cut, grilled and topped with Creole mapleglaze; Brisket Tips — the tender point of the brisket smoked, seasoned, sauced and smokedagain; or St. Louis Spare Ribs, Chicken and Pulled pork? A don’t miss for BBQ cravings.

BBQ’d and grilled seafood are also popular. Executive Chef Vania Almeida serves the littleknown but amazing BBQ Pacu ribs on her menu at Second Story at the Belamar Hotel inManhattan Beach. She discovered the South American fish while watching an Argentineanchef now in San Diego prepare them on the Food Network. Intrigued, she contacted her


Above: Pacu fish ribs from Second Story; below: Chef Pascal Godé caters to hotel guests and up to 1000 for BBQ events.

F EATUR E : L ’ E N T R E E´

Thrill of the Grillby Teri Williams

purveyor and ordered some. Available from March to September, Chef Almeida serves them onher summer menu with a citrus-based BBQ sauce.

Quail, venison, rattlesnake, raccoon, possum, ostrich and squirrel have all been grilledsomewhere; although they may not be easily accessible, and may not suit every taste. Moretypical is beef, pork, sausage, lamb, turkey, duck, and chicken. Every chef loves to cook wholeanimals when feasible, and the flavor imparted by the grill process is unmistakable. “It addsa char that you can only get by grilling and nothing beats it,” says Chef Joseph Gotti, Brü Grill& Market in Lake Forest.

“The high heat involved really locks in the juices,” adds Wildfish Seafood Grill ExecutiveChef Keith Stich. At the restaurant in Newport Beach, they use mostly charcoal butoccasionally add mesquite for its earthy, almost nutty flavor.

“At Three Seventy Common Kitchen+Drink, we grill by cooking over wood, which impartsa natural smoky flavor and allows meat to sear more evenly. The technique is a bit difficult tomaster, though,” says Chef/Owner Ryan Adams. At his Laguna Beach restaurant they cook overa mesquite and white oak mix, but sometimes add grape vine trimmings, hickory or applewood.

Chef Ferrell of Lucille’s uses hickory for “just right” smokiness, finding other woods eithertoo mild or too heavy.

Parks Barbecue, a popular Korean style BBQ in Koreatown, grills meat on the table infront of guests. When serving galbi, a marinated short rib, “Charcoal gives a special taste andsmell,” explains Jenee Kim, manager. The servers use beef suet to keep the meat from stickingand while meat is the focus, Kim believes “Korean food is considered one of the healthiestbecause of its many combinations of meat and vegetables.” Their banchan, side dishes servedalong with rice, includes kimchi, radish, bean sprouts, broccoli, cabbage, pumpkin, cucumberand more.

Cinnamon or pimento wood is favored in Jamaica because it grows there according to ChefDon Schoenburg, who currently cooks for Myetts in Cane Garden Bay, Tortola, BVI. “The flavoris cinnamon. It smells very nice and because they remove the bark the flavor is very subtle andnot overpowering.” He recently cooked a whole pig for seven hours, describing the results ascrispy on the outside and falling off the bones on the inside.

Moving closer to home, the Santa Inez Valley is known for grapes and wine, particularlypinot noir and syrah. The area is a feast for the senses with wide open spaces, trout-filled riversand lakes, and lushly wooded rolling hills. The location of Alisal Ranch, where we spent fourdays in BBQ Boot Camp, could not be more ideal for savoring food cooked outdoors. The estatehas thrived as a cattle ranch as it has for generations since its inception as a Mexican landgrant. Vaqueros, Mexican cowboys, would chow on beef BBQ’d over a red oak fire. Customarysides were pinquito beans and bread, never sauce.

A tradition known as Santa Maria BBQ is the star of the curriculum at Alisal’s BBQ BootCamp. Tri-tip, the cut of beef from the bottom sirloin, was typically used for ground beef orsliced into steaks until the late 1950s when it became a local specialty. When sliced, the meathas a unique tender texture and flavor. Santa Maria BBQ is now synonymous with tri-tip rubbedwith salt, pepper, spices, and cooked whole on a rotisserie or grill.

We indulged in dazzling days of sunshine for brisk morning horse rides, outdoor grillinglessons, a spice blending seminar and dinners accompanied by local pinot noir and syrah.Everything was made doubly appetizing by the crisp air, wood-fire-meat aromas, outdoorarenas, and fabulous company. A feast of meat yes, but my “best bite” was the blue cheesestuffed brussels sprouts wrapped in Brad’s bacon grilled over medium heat. Yes, it’s good asit sounds. Bradley Lettau has been the chef of Hitching Post for 30 years.

Executive Chef Pascal Godé and Master Grilling Chef Frank Ostini led entertaining classesfilled with helpful hints and hands-on practice. In classes covering basic grills and utensils,many different preferences were explored in illustrating that each BBQ chef is unique. Alisal’sFrench born Chef Godé used Pam to spray the grill; Ostini, chef/owner of the Hitching Post,made famous by the movie Sideways, rubbed his with a big chunk of beef fat supplied by Godé.

Another difference between the two, who joke and play off each other in a well seasonedroutine, is in their approach to seasoning. Godé creates different spice blends and lavishes



Continued on page 16

Chef Frank Ostini travels the country doingBBQ demos and serves over 300 covers athis restaurant on weekends.

How do you likeyour steak?*

RareVery red inside, warm in middleMedium-rareStill red inside, when the juices

start to flowMediumPink edges & red in middle, still

juicyMedium-wellJust a touch of pink in middleWell doneCooked through, little or no pink

inside. We recommend the ‘butterfly’ cut so these steaks are thinner.

* From the menu at Hitching Post

compound butters that he deems “his littleslice of heaven.” Ostini uses “magic dust” —salt, pepper and garlic — on meat, and thesame plus butter, white wine and lemon onseafood.

At the spice blending seminar, a longtable with bowls of cumin, oregano, cayenne,onion power, and more was laid. Afterdiscussing the flavor profiles, each guest wasgiven their own bowl to sample and blendaccording to their taste. We were to choosebased on whether the blend was for fish, steakor chicken. Each chef was available to samplethe blend and make suggestions. We weregiven a jar and label to take home along withsamples from Ostini and Godé.

Touch to check meat doneness was alsoexplained. Flesh resistance was the factor toweigh for doneness, but thermometers wereutilized when questions arose. Less resistanceequals less cooked, more resistance is moredone. The practice of removing the meat to letit rest was demonstrated as all items continueto cook after they are removed from the heat.

Both chefs use the local red oak wood,but Ostini prefers his without bark and Godé

with for stronger flavor. A highlight was the grill-your-own evening

where we could use our blends and newlyacquired knowledge to grill our own meat.Newport Meat’s Robert Esser, shared hisexpertise on meat purchasing and preparation.

Figueroa Mountain Brewing Co.introduced us to some proprietary brews at theopening reception, and excellent local wineswere generously poured at receptions anddinners. Private label wines from AlisalRanch, Hartley Ostini Hitching Post, andMelville Vineyards and Winery were presentedand sampled. While best known for Pinots andSyrahs, Cabernet, Chardonnay and Rieslinggrapes all thrive in the region’s climate. Ouroffsite visits included Foley and Babcockvineyards. Gray Hartley hosted a winereception with Hitching Post II Wines;Winemaker Chad Melville discussed his winesat our final evening’s reception.

The primal appeal, scent, and taste offood cooked over burning wood according toChef Adams, “plays with our food memoriesand is just plan sexy.”

For recipes mentioned please see Great-Taste.net.



Continued from page 15 Great Taste Protein PakCalifornia Beef Council www.calbeef.orgDaniels Western Meats www.danielsmeat.comFarmland www.farmlandfoodservice.comIngardia Brothers www.ingardiabros.comManchester Farms www.manchesterfarms.comMaple Leaf Farms www.mapleleaffarms.comNewport Meat Company www,newportmeat.com

www.ingardiabros.com

CH E F P R O FI

LEINGARDIABROS.PRODUCE

SP

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N S O R E DB

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**

As if a chic and happening restaurant were plucked straight from San Francisco or New YorkCity, Michael’s on Naples in Long Beach pops out dramatically from other shops on thestreet. Its clean modern décor hints at the upscale Italian food and carefully selected winesfound inside. Chef David Coleman is making creamy and divine mozzarella when I arrive,and I am lucky to sample it. I’m surprised to hear he makes it daily, because while he cooks

dinner at Michael’s on Naples, they have recently opened a pizzeria next door that also boasts house-madecheese. I peek next door and the place is bustling. They have their bases covered with casual dining ANDupscale dining options—both benefitting from Chef Coleman’s touch.

Not surprisingly, David spent time cooking in San Francisco and New York. After an early career as a“teamster,” David made a permanent shift to cooking. He was classically trained at the California CulinaryAcademy and employed in the city learning to make authentic Irish pub food that was “ten times betterthan any Irish pub food [he’d] ever had”. He enjoyed cooking from a young age and often helped hismother cook for his eight (!) siblings. David’s mother made everything from scratch and in hindsight, heappreciates the education received from her.

When he had gotten the most from San Francisco, David left to intern in New York; that is where thetough kitchens are, and it was time he paid his dues. When working for free in the most expensive city inAmerica grew old, David moved to the best place he knew of in O.C.: the Hobbit. He worked as Sous Chefthere before another stint in San Francisco, finally returning to settle at Michael’s on Naples. David lovesthe O.C. lifestyle and feels he can make more of an impact here with his great food than in places likeSan Francisco where the culture is already 100% food.

Named #1 Italian in Long Beach by Zagat, Michael’s on Naples is frequented by 50% local regularsand 50% others who travel as far as necessary, drawn in by the eatery’s reputation. You will not find

Chef David Coleman

by Chef Katie Averill

Continued on page 18

Photo by Michael Rutt


F EATUR E : C H E F D E C U I S I N E

F EATUR E : C H E F D E C U I S I N E


Bolognese and meatballs on the menu,except maybe occasionally as a specialbecause “it tastes good.” More common isduck, freshly flown in, and braised octopuswith fava beans.

While there are a few mainstay items thatthe locals won’t let him remove from the menu,David mostly cooks with the ever-changingseasonal produce he finds at the Farmer’sMarkets and from choice purveyors. Freshnessand the shortest chain of distribution and shelflife are top of the mind in Chef Coleman’skitchen. As often as possible, this chef and histeam focus on cooking and utilizing the whole

beast. He recently hosted an extremelysuccessful foie gras dinner where 120 foodiespacked the house.

In his off time, David enjoys travelingand brewing his own beer and ciders. Thistime is rare, however, because while he has aloyal and non-compromising kitchen staff,David is generally at work “all the time.” Heis never satisfied with the work at Michael’son Naples and is always focused and strivingto give his customers something new andinteresting. He doesn’t appreciate chefs thatinsist their food is perfect; for Chef DavidColeman, part of being a great chef meansthat there is always room to grow.

OCTOPUS3 1/2 - 4 lbs Whole octopus 1 Fennel - quartered1 Onion - skinned and quartered3 Celery rib5 Cloves garlic - crushed1 C Dry white wine3 T Blended olive oilPreheat oven to 350 degrees. Soak and clean

octopus thoroughly, towel dry. Remove each

tentacle at base of head. Quarter head, remove

beak and intestines. Bring a large pan with

adequate surface area to smoking point, add oil

and turn off flame, then carefully place pieces

of octopus into pan one at a time. Turn flame

back on. Sear each side for 2 minutes, then

add all vegetables and continue on high for

another 2 minutes. Turn off flame, add wine,

cover and place in oven for 45 minutes.

Remove octopus from pan, discard remaining

vegetables. (Octopus will have released water

and the braising liquid can be used for a soup

base if desired). Chill octopus and keep

separate from liquid.

MEYER LEMON CONFIT4 lb Kosher salt - to cover1 C Water or lemon juice12 Meyer lemons - scrubbed and

halved crosswise

Pour about 1 inch of salt into a nonreactive

container just large enough to contain the

lemons and salt, a wide-mouthed glass jar with

a lid is preferable. A container in which your

lemons fit neatly without being jammed

together will require less salt. Place the lemons

in the container, then pour more salt to cover,

finally carefully pour over the cup of water. The

lemons should be completely submerged and

make sure there are no air pockets around

them. Cover and store in a refrigerator or dry

dark place for 3 months. Once cured, lemons

will keep almost indefinitely in the salt. To use

the confit, remove a lemon from the salt and

rinse. Cut in half and scrape out the pulp and

pith; discard. Mince or slice the rind, place in

olive oil over night to season oil.

FAVA BEANSClean and blanch fava beans 30 seconds in

salted water. Remove and place in ice water

until cool.

ROASTED POTATOESUse baby Yukons, if possible. Preheat oven to

350 degrees. Slice potatoes about 1/4" thick,

coat in olive oil, season with salt, and roast in

oven 14 minutes.

TO SERVECoat tentacles in olive oil, salt and pepper.

Place on hot grill for 3 minutes each side. Slice

each tentacle in 7 to 10 pieces, toss in Meyer

lemon confit, olive oil, chopped parsley and

capers. Plate with roasted potatoes and warm

fava beans.

Grilled Octopus with roasted potatoes, fava beans, capers, and Meyer lemon confit

5620 E. 2nd StreetLong Beach, CA 90803562.439.7080www.michaelsonnaples.com

Sun-Thurs – 5:00 pm to 10:00 pmFri-Sat – 5:00 pm to 11:00 pm

Michaels Pizzeria Sun – Thurs 12-10 pmFri – Sat 12-11 pm

FIRST COOKING OR FOOD RELATEDMEMORY: Probably when I was about 4 yearsold peeling carrots and potatoes in the

kitchen with my mother. My parents had 9

children so we always made everything from

scratch and the stove was always on.

IF NOT A CHEF, WHAT WOULD YOU BE? Asad pirate clown or maybe a farmer.

FAVORITY KITCHEN GADGET OR TOOL: Agood sharp knife; it’s only as good as my hand

and only as sharp as I keep it.

FAVORITE CONDIMENT/SPICE: WhiteBalsamic as of late.

BIGGEST MYTH ABOUT WORKING IN THEKITCHEN: That the Chef is always right andthat the customer is always wrong. There are

a lot of new chefs who arrogantly believe that

their food is the divine inspiration of God, and

no mere customer has the right to change or

question it. Don’t get me wrong, it drives me

nuts when someone tries to change my food,

but as chefs we must sometimes walk a tight

rope and bend when it is necessary, even

when it hurts. I believe on the rare occasion

we will find that sometimes we didn’t create

the perfect dish, and when we become

humble we can see our food through fresh

eyes; then we can be inspired again.

FAVORITE JUNK FOOD: Black licorice anything.

Michael’s On Naples

Chef David Coleman

MAKE CONTACTContinued from page 17


T H E B I Z : F R O N T O F T H E H O U S E

Recently some friends and Imet at a popular restaurant onthe coast to grab a couple ofdrinks and relax on a Fridaynight around 9 pm after thedinner rush had died down. As

we entered, the two young women at thehost stand welcomed us and asked if theycould help. We thought we knew where wewere going and walked out to a patio thathad a few patrons enjoying their food anddrinks. Though not set, we sat at one ofthe several tables available. As we waitedpatiently discussing what we were going toorder to drink, servers and bussers passed

us by without a single, “I’ll be right withyou” or “I’ll be back with some menus.”

After sitting for approximately tenminutes, I finally decided to go inside andask the hostess if there was a server thatcould assist us. I explained we had beensitting outside on the patio for quite sometime and that a number of restaurant staffhad passed our table without even sayinghello or asking whether somebody could besent to take our drink order. The other ladystanding behind the host stand, themanager, informed me that patio seatingwas not for drinks, only dinners, the patioin the “far back” was the “outdoor cocktailarea” and we would have to move if wewanted service; that or go to the bar andplace an order ourselves.

This came with no apology, juststraight-faced and matter of fact.

Simply put, I was floored. As arestaurant manager in the industry for over

17 years, I could not believe my ears. Whathappened to customer service, propertraining of managers, servers, bussers, andhostesses; not to mention just common,everyday kindness?

I apologized, but as I walked away Iwondered what I was apologizing forother than not knowing their seatingareas. Could the hostess not havepointed us in the right direction? Couldshe not have come to the table to ask usto relocate?

I proceeded outside to inform my partyof the outcome, and we graciously movedto the other “far back cocktail patio.”

Once there, we encountered anindifferent cocktail server who gave everyappearance of not wanting to be at work.

The boys ordered beer, and the girlsordered a bottle of wine. Our server did notknow how to open a bottle so we assistedher. The server was able to pour, so wethought, until she spilled red wine on myfriend. To add to our displeasure, theserver was irritated that she had to returnto clean up the mess. We truly regrettedordering the bottle, because now we had tostay until we finished it.

You’ll never guess how we knew that itwas time to go home. No “last call” or“have a nice night;” Just a flip of theswitch and goodbye heater.

As we left the restaurant that evening,we could only shake our heads in disbelief.How could such a reputable restauranthave such horrid customer servicepractices? No one appeared to take theirjob seriously. Needless to say, we will not be returning to that particularestablishment.

I truly believe that people wantrestaurant staff (including management) tobe fun, engaging, helpful, and to at leastpretend that they love their job. Patronslook for eye contact, a warm greeting,smile or the physical indication of quickassistance. As a restaurant manager, Iexpect my actions to set the tone for thefloor. If I am gracious and helpful, mostlikely my staff will be the same.

Customer service is all about attitudeand about proper training. In today’soverheated competitive market, poorservice is both unacceptable andunaffordable. The restaurant industry mustalways remember: customer service is anINTEGRAL part of our job, not just anextension of it.

I truly believe that people want restaurant staff(including management) to be fun, engaging,helpful, and to at least pretend they love their job.Patrons look for eye contact, a warm greeting,smile or the physical indication of quick assistance.

BadService isBad forBusinessA real-life dismalexperience leadsto loss of business

by Barbara Wheatley

Patrick Albrecht, owner of fourrestaurants in Atlanta, GA thatemploy 200, has outfitted his15 managers with iPhones,which they use to access the company’s Bento database,

iCal calendars, and enterprise software.They can instantly look up, enter,

and revise information about menus,banquets, employee schedules, point-of-sale transactions, and access daily reports— from anywhere.

Great Food Group Inc’s owner has a lotmore than food on his plate and to keep hisoperation running smoothly and cost-effectively, he depends on the iPhone.

“There used to be a lot of headaches,”Albrecht says, “Trying to track information.Who booked the banquet? Where’s thatpiece of paper? But with the iPhone, weknow exactly where everything is and wecan access it anywhere, anytime-instantly.”

“You hear from every restaurateur thatthey have to run through the restaurant, thekitchen, maybe up a flight of stairs to theirback-office, just to enter or findinformation. We can do it wirelessly fromanywhere.”

The iPhone is also a handy littlemarketing tool. When Albrecht getsexcited about a new dish from thekitchen, he photographs it and instantlyuploads it to the restaurant’s website andthe digital display at the bar. He posts onFacebook and Twitter to keep hiscustomers updated about specials andupcoming events.

“I was never convinced about socialmedia until recently when one of mymanagers started using Facebook on a dailybasis. The day I heard, ‘We came herebecause we saw you on Facebook,’ our liveschanged. We now have all managers linkedto our Facebook and they are able toupdate it with pictures and specials at anymoment of the day.”

BENTO: AN EASY-TO-USE PHONE DATABASEUSED BY RESTAURANTS OWNERSWith the Bento database, Albrecht canreplace an entire filing cabinet, making allof his company’s data accessible with justa few taps. And with iCal, his team arealways synchronized and up-to-the-minuteon banquet bookings. They know exactlywhen large parties are dining and whatthey’ll be served.

They no longer have to worry about whohas the paperwork.

“Our employees are no longer boggeddown in the back office. They can focus onthe customer.”

PERSONALIZED SERVICE, RIGHT AT THETABLETrained in Europe in hospitality and culinaryarts, Albrecht joined forces with his fatherPaul, an award-winning Atlanta chef, in afamily tradition. In their business, customerexperience is paramount, and the iPhonehas been instrumental in making thatexperience seamless.

“We use the WineSnob application alot,” Albrecht says. “When a diner wants topair their meal with the perfect wine, we doa quick look-up.” At the bar, Drinks,another app, has replaced the need for agiant book of recipes. “It’s a database withover 4,500 mixed drinks,” Albrechtexplains. “And it’s searchable. It’s muchfaster than a printed book and it worksgreat in the low light at the bar.”

Read more about how Chef Albrechtuses the iPhone at Great Food Group, visitwww.Great-Taste.net.


T H E B I Z : O P E R AT I O N S

Management bySmart PhoneManaging four restaurants withone iPhone

Chef/Owner Patrick Albrecht on his iPhone at DosAmigos, one of the latest additions to his Great FoodGroup.

T H E B I Z : B E V E R A G E S


There are certain truths we’veheld to be self-evident sincetime’s begun: the sun rises inthe East, bread lands butter-side down, swallowed gum staysin your stomach for seven years,

and the only wine you should drink with asteak is a Cabernet Sauvignon.

Really?Allow me to play Galileo Galilei to this

great steak “truth.” Cabernet every timewith a steak? I not-so-humbly disagree (Iget a little cocky when I’m talkinguncommon wines). There are dozens ofother wine varietals out there with the rightcombination of dry, dark berries, bracingacidity, and firm-but-not-too-forcefultannins that pair with steak better thanmost Cabernets do. Here are just fourlesser-known wines that I think make agreat steak companion:

OLD VINE CARIGNANECarignane has its origins in Spain andnumerous plantings in the Languedoc andRhone valley regions of France, but thebest full-blooded varietal versions availableare from Mendocino County, where someCarignane blocks are nearly a century old.Normally Carignane produces a heavy wineof dry red berries and almost-overpoweringtannins, but Carignane from old vines —which must be aged over 40 years toofficially be called “old” — shows an extralayer of finesse and complexity by tuningthe tannins way down, making the winesofter, less intense, more approachable,and a perfect companion to red meat. Oneof my favorite old vine Carignanes is theMilano Family Winery 2005 Mendocino OldVine Carignane. It’s chewy and dry with lotsof pomegranate and currants, but soft onthe tannins and perfect with medium-rareribeyes and New York strips.

REFOSCO DEL PEDUNCOLO ROSSOThis rare gem from northeastern Italydoesn’t fall far from the Carignane vine. It’sdeep, powerful, dark violet and brimmingwith red currant and wild berry flavors, atouch of bitterness, and Adamantium-liketannins. Yet beyond the bold tastes andtannins is an alluring violet floral nose thatintensifies as the wine ages. Most Refoscosare released with four to five years of age

already on them; while drinkable, they’lljust get better with more age. Fantinelmakes a wickedly good Refosco, the 2007“Vignetti Sant’Helena” Refosco delPeduncolo Rosso DOC that immediatelybrings to mind a thick baseball-cut topsirloin as soon as you pour it.

RESERVA AND GRAN RESERVATEMPRANILLOWhen you think Spanish reds, you probablythink Tempranillo: that light, fruity, spicy,peppery minx from Iberia. But Tempranilloscan be deep and intense too, the deepestand most intense being the Reserva andGran Reserva wines out of the Rioja andRibera del Duero regions in northern Spain.Reserva classification dictates that thewine be aged at least three years, includingat least one in oak. Gran Reserva requiresup to five years of aging, including at least18 months in oak and a minimum of threeyears in bottle. Both Reserva and GranReserva wines show their age with chewydry cherry and berry flavors, demure butupright tannins, and dirty, rustic, gravel-road charm. If you’re looking for a terrificReserva Tempranillo, look no further thanthe Conde de Jauregui 2005 Rioja Reserva,with bold smoky fruit, leathery notes, andenough punch in the cojones to make youforget your Cabs for good.

MOURVEDRE ROSÉWhat, you thought we were just going tostick with red wines? Sure, we could’vegone with a Nebbiolo or a Barbera ordipped our toe into a bolder Beaujolais Cru(I’m feeling you, Morgon and Moulin-a-Vent), but if you’re devouring a grilled steakon a hot summer’s night, you’re going towant a bold rosé, not a red. And there maybe no finer domestic rosé than the Tercero2010 Santa Barbara County MourvedreRosé. Produced in the Bandol style, whatthis wine lacks in bouquet it makes up forin rich, tart, bold strawberry flavors and abig, lush mouth feel that works perfectlywith thinner steaks like hanger or onglet.

So there you go: four great alternativereds that will rise above and conquer anyslab of beef you throw at them. Cabproblem solved. Just call me your Einsteinof Wine Time, or the Pythagoras of theCarnivorous (or Chris will be fine, too).

ThePerfectSteakWineby Chris KernChris Kern is the founder of online wine shopForgottenGrapes.com and the creator and host of SundayNight Chef Fights (sundaynightcheffights.com). E-mail himat [email protected].

Fleming’s Prime Peppercorn Steak, prime New Yorkstrip, crusted in cracked black and white peppercorns

with proprietary “F17” sauce on the side.


T H E B I Z : B E V E R A G E S

The weather is warming, springhas sprung, and summer is on itsway. What does that mean forproud Americans across thisland? It’s time to BBQ! And, withhot and spicy BBQ there is the

need for a cool refreshing accompaniment.BBQ, whether it a Kansas City dry rub or myfavorite, West Texas “cowboy style” is trulythis country’s first cuisine and is celebratedin various ways from region to region. Givenmy Texas roots, I am going to explore a“cowboy style” BBQ inspired libation.

There are three main components toknow when cooking BBQ, regardless of theregion. The first component is the style inwhich you cook your meat; the second, thetype of wood; and last is the sauce. Cowboystyle BBQ is cooked over direct heat, usingmesquite wood and is served with amedium bodied, spicy sauce usuallycontaining meat drippings. Since cookingBBQ is all about cooking low and slow andflavoring the meat with smoke, I decided itwas the cooking process I wanted toincorporate. With a lot of thought, a littlecreativity and a quick trip to the hardwarestore I came up with a fun way to smoke aspirit. Using a 1/2 inch by 3 foot longplastic tube and a roll of duct tape you canfeed the smoke from your grill into mostalcohol bottles — imparting the flavor of

your BBQ directly into your liquor ofchoice. The infusion process takes from 30minutes to an hour depending on the levelof smoke you desire. You have to make surethere is room between the tube and thebottle opening for the smoke to release soyour bottle doesn’t explode. After I infuseany spirit, I like to first use it in an alcoholforward cocktail like an old fashioned or amartini to get the true flavor of the infusionand then explore from there.

For my cowboy style BBQ I decided toinfuse two spirits. I started by concocting ameat and potatoes Bloody Mary usingLuksusowa potato vodka. This made for aperfect afternoon cocktail to sip while mymeat was cooking. To wash down my juicydinner I smoked Basil Hayden’s bourbonand spiked my Cowboy sweet tea. Checkout the smoking directions online or watchmy “smoking” video on my blog atblacklab-ventures.com/blog and rememberto always use caution when dealing withalcohol near flames. Cheers!

Visit Great-Taste.net for procedures andrecipes.

WhereThere’sSmokeby Joel Black

www.danielsmeat.com

949-322-7590 www.michaelrutt.com

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Great Taste Magazine 2012 May/Jun Issue