Presorted StandardU.S. Postage

PAIDPermit No. 400Laguna Beach CA

SAVORY SWEETS 10 ESPRESSO ANYONE? 19 LED SIGNS 20

SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011

farmlandfoods.com

F ROM TH E ED I TOR

SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011 | great taste 3

T ER I’STAKE

Darn! Summer’s almost officiallyover. Not that that meansmuch to us here in SoCal. Wespent lots of time at the OCFair this summer and tastedlots of fried items and met

many of great people. If I ate at the fair doesthat make me a carni-vore? Yuk, yuk, yuk.

It’s not too soon to start thinking aboutfall even in these fine days... we’ve gotyou covered with great soup ideas andsome yummy-sounding mac ‘n’ cheeses.For you pastry chefs, Katie shared herrecipe for fondant; delicious, easy and amoney saver. You'll also enjoy ourselection of sweet-savory desserts, a nicechange from the norm; molten chocolatecake, panna cotta, creme brulee. etc.

Our website is growing leaps andbounds and this month we've started withall kinds of give-aways and contests onFacebook too.

Kids are back at school and that'sgreat for us. We also have a new group ofinterns to help us out. They’ll be callingand emailing you so give them a hand andthey’ll help you get your Great Taste on.

Looking forward for fall and spring,we'll be arranging more day trips and HIPtastings for you to enjoy.

Hope to see you soon.

Succulent baby back ribs and smoky, sliced brisket are dry marinated and slow-smokedover Hickory and Applewood pits at Chef Marty Wells’ Bad to the Bone BBQ in San JuanCapistrano. If almost three pounds worth of tender ribs aren’t enough to get you salivating,choose from nearly 20 house made side dishes, including a classic favorite, Mac ‘N’Cheese. This issue’s Sur Le Menu features Mac ‘n’ Cheese in a variety of gooey SouthernCalifornia interpretations. Look for these as well as Chef Wells’ recipe on page 13. Photoby Michael Rutt.

On T he Cove r

C O N T E N T Con t en t

MORE THAN C

HEFS

Out of the kitchen

and into the writer’s

chair, these talented

chefs share their

expertise with us as

our Culinary Advisors.

F E ATURES14 SOUPS OF THE SEASON

Simmer and Savor some comfort this fall.

17 OWNER/OPERATOR MARTY WELLS

I N S I D E4 THE BEET

Find out who’s hot and new now.

5 THE BEET

Acknowledging all the greatness and

philanthropy in this generous Industry.

5 BOOKS

Discover the secrets of Bottega in

Michael Chiarello’s book.

THE B I Z10 TRENDS

Sweet and savory.

19 BACK OF THE HOUSE

Choose the right espresso machine.

20 OPERATIONS

LED Signs.

22 BEVERAGES

San Diego Bay Wine and Food Festival.

DEPARTMENTS4 PRODUCE PICK OF THE MONTH

6 BAKING RACK

7 CHEESE PICK OF THE MONTH

7 FISH MARKET

7 SWEET SPOTS

8 TAKE IT OR LEAVE IT

9 SPICE RACK

11 FOOD TRUCK FEVER

12 SUR LE MENU

Corporate Executive Chef

Lazy Dog Cafe

GABRIEL CALIENDO

Executive Chef

Adam Navidi Catering

ADAM NAVIDI

Corporate Pastry Chef

Balboa Dessert Co.

KATIE AVERILL

Executive Chef

JASON STEIN

}

P R O D U C E

PICKOF THE MONTH

YOU’RE WALKING PAST AN EVERGREEN

TREE IN THE FOREST AND SOMETHING

THE COLOR OF RICH SUNSET CATCHES

YOUR EYE. Lobster mushrooms, bright

orangey-red fungal blossoms, are found

between July and September. Hypomyces

lactifluorum are actually a parasite that attack two

North American mushroom species, Lactarius

(milk-cap) and Russula (short-stemmed or

peppery-cap), covering the entire body of their

host mushroom.

Devotees assert that lobster mushrooms

evoke a mild seafood-like flavor similar to its

namesake. This unique fungus can also taste

peppery if the host mushroom for the

fungi was the lactarius piperatus. Lobster

mushrooms are a wonderful addition to pastas

with cream sauce, seafood bisques or

chowders, risottos, egg dishes such as

quiches and frittatas or alone as side dish to

almost any protein. Crisp white wines such as

Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc are a great

match for this mild-flavored fungus.

The produce hunter has developed close

relationships with small, local family farmers

committed to sustainable agriculture,

personable production, and propagation and

promotion of produce with exceptional flavor.

www.theproducehunter.com

LobsterMushrooms

I N S I D E

4 www.great-taste.net | SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011

In what turned out to be one of theclosest Chef Fights Orange County hasever seen, Challenger Chef James Harris(pictured), Executive Chef of The RoyalHawaiian in Laguna Beach, defeatedDefending Champion Chef Nicola (Nick)

Bellazzi, Chef/Owner of Enne CucinaItaliana in San Clemente, at the OrangeCounty Sunday Night Chef Fight at theStandards of Excellence showroom inHuntington Beach. Who’s the nextchallenger in line? We’ll let you know on theweb at www.great-taste.net. Both chefsdelighted an excited crowd of 46 hungryfoodies with their inventive cuisines andunique personalities, as they presented anarray of dishes that utilized the three baseingredients of shrimp, mushrooms, andbrown bread, as well as the mysteryingredient of cinnamon, which was revealedto them only two days before the Chef Fight.

Just days away from opening, PizzeriaMozza has arrived. They will be open sixdays a week until October when they’replanning seven. Here’s the team as we knowit — Chef/Owners Nancy Silverton, MarioBatali, Joe Bastianich, Executive Chef MattMolina, Chef de Cuisine Emily Corliss,Pastry Chef Sarah Asch and General

Manager Sam Schamberg.Hotel Laguna’s “facelift” is expected to

be completed by early fall, culminating withan open house and celebration. In additionto luxurious upgrades throughout, hotelierGeorgia Andersen is also planning aconceptual makeover for the hotel’s ClaesRestaurant, which will be renamed Claes’Ovation. It will now feature “Festival fare”including small plates and a three-courseprix fixe menu especially designed forvisitors on their way to the Pageant and artfestivals. Newly appointed industry leaderHeinz U. Hofmann, Chief Operating Officerof Hotel Laguna had the honor of inductingboth Executive Chef Paul Bauer and Claes’son, Stefan Andersen, who recentlyreceived his Bachelor of Science in hotelmanagement, into this distinguished group.

Real Mex Restaurants, Inc, the parentcompany to restaurant companies El Toritoand Acapulco Mexican Restaurants,donated $10,000 to the American CancerSociety after a four day fund raiser lastmonth. The drive was part of the AmericanCancer Society’s annual “Relay for Life.”Close to 100 El Torito and Acapulcorestaurants throughout Californiaparticipated in the event.

T H E B E E T

T H E B E E T

T H E B E E T

T H E B E E T

Anaheim White House launchedan innovative give away andthen sweetened the pot evenfurther. Bruno’s original callout read “Attention allnonprofit charities in the

OC…the Anaheim White House issponsoring a contest from which the top12 finalists will receive a free cateredluncheon for up to 100 guests in therestaurant’s private banquet room, theWest Wing. Owner Bruno Serato is askingcharities with a 501c3 designation tosubmit a brief description of why theorganization is deserving of the giveawayvalued at more than $4,000 and he willselect one for each of the next 12months. The giveaway includes roomrental, 3-course lunch and non-alcoholicbeverages.” Bruno received over 200entries and has decided to host 52randomly chosen free catered lunches inthe West Wing for non-profitscommencing January 1, 2012. Thank youBruno for your exceptional contributions!

Benjamin Udave began his officialcareer at Chef Tim Goodell’s Red PearlKitchen in Huntington Beach. He has heldpositions with Hollywood’s White LotusRestaurant and Red Carpet Catering, andhe helped open the Home Depot Center in

Carson as Chef de Cuisine. Most recently,Benjamin was Executive Chef of all fiverestaurant concepts at the prestigiousJonathan Club in Santa Monica. Benjaminlooks forward to sharing his talent andcreative approach to cooking with theunique style of cuisine at Perch, the aptlynamed rooftop lounge located indowntown’s Pershing Square Building. The three-story establishment boastsbreathtaking views of the city and aneclectic menu of approachable versions ofclassic French dishes.

After a whirlwind start up in Chicago,restaurant review site, FoodMafia.com isready to see its name in lights and haslaunched in the city of angels. The memberbased community of food lovers offeringinformative reviews on restaurants in theirareas, was founded when CEO StacyJohnson became unsatisfied with the foodreviews she was reading online whilevisiting cities. Like most, she wantedcredible suggestions about where to go forgreat dining experiences so with necessitybeing the mother of inventions, she createdFood Mafia.

Irvine-based Yard House Restaurantswill open eight new restaurants within thenext 12 months and reach the 40 unitmark.

T H E B E E T

T H E B E E T

T H E B E E T

T H E B E E T

I N S I D E

B O O K S BOOKS

Chef Michael Chiarello’s Bottega Restaurant is one of Napa Valley’s most popular new locations. His book,aptly named Michael Chiarello’s Bottega, has received as much critical acclaim as the restaurant itselfwith award nominations by the IACP and the James Beard Foundation. The cookbook, written with AnnKrueger Spivak and Claudia Sanson, is filled with beautiful photographs of the staff, restaurant and foodby Frankie Frankeny. The recipes truly deliver “Bold Italian flavors from the heart of the wine country,”and feature favorite dishes from the restaurant’s menu. Dishes range from a simple Torn Figs and Burrata

and Tagliarini with Manilla Clams and Calabrese Sausage to the more elaborate Ancient-Grain Polenta “Under Glass”with Mushrooms and Balsamic Sauce and Smoked or Braised Natural Short Ribs with Roasted Cipolini Onions andSmoky Jus. Each recipe is precisely detailed, including helpful tips and substitutions. In 222 pages, the book haschapters on snacks, antipasti, soups and salads, pastas, fish, meats, side dishes, and deserts. For chefs anddedicated home cooks, the appetizing flavors and ingredients will get your creative cooking juices flowing. Topurchase this book and many others, please visit www.great-taste.net.

SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011 | great taste 5

SINCE 2000

PUBLISHER/CHIEF EDITOR/PROPRIETORTeri Williams

EDITORIALChief EditorTeri Williams

ContributorsChef Katie Averill

Chef Gabriel CaliendoThom ConnollyPaul GiannottiSuzanna HoangChris Kern

Linda MensingaChef Adam NavidiChef Jason Stein

ARTArt Direction/Design

Lisa Brinklisa@designsmorgasbord.com

PHOTOPhotography Editor

Michael Ruttmichaelrutt@earthlink.net

ADVERTISINGAdvertising Sales714-960-0534

21851 Newland St #217Huntington Beach, CA 92646

714-960-0534 fax 714-475-5869teri@great-taste.net

I N S I D E

6 www.great-taste.net | SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011

by Chef Katie Averill

FONDANT MAKES THE MOST BEAUTIFUL, SMOOTH, FLAWLESS, CLASSY

WEDDING CAKES. Time after time, brides choose fondant covered cakes to

achieve “the look” of the cake they want. However, no one ever said that it

tastes great or even good. It comes in a bucket and tastes like chalk. It is

decidedly THE most UN-TASTY (is that a word?) product in pastryland.

Back in the day, when I first started out making wedding cakes I dreaded

fondant, not only because it tasted terrible but because it was so darn

expensive. I would have $2 profit by the end of days of work. Then I

discovered how to make my own. I could buy real ingredients, cheap

ingredients; a better product for 75% less money!

Today I decided to let you in on the secret. You will keep this recipe

forever if it means to you what it has meant to me.

1 lb marshmallows

2 lbs powdered sugar

3 T water

Melt marshmallows over

a bain-marie (never over

direct heat). This is a slow,

sticky process. Add water to

marshmallows and put in a

mixer. With the mixer on

LOW, gradually add the

powdered sugar. Knead with

a dough hook until well

combined and perfectly

smooth. You can use fondant

immediately or wrap it

airtight in plastic wrap. You

can thank me later!!! Contact Chef Katie Averill at KDCOOKS@aol.com

T H E BAK ING

RACKHOMEMADE FONDANT

SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011 | great taste 7

I N S I D E

Cheese Pick of the MonthIF THERE WAS EVER JUST ONE WELL-ROUNDED,

PERFECTLY BALANCED BLUE CHEESE, Rogue Creamery’s

Echo Mountain Blue Cheese just might take the title.

Throughout its 56 year history, this Oregon creamery has

lived by the dedication to craftsmanship of its founder Tom

Vella, artisan cheesemaker from Sonoma, California.

Introduced by Rogue in 2003, Echo Mountain is a semi-firm

blue cheese aged 8 to 12 months in a cement cave

designed by Vella, inspired by the limestone caves he

experienced studying cheese making in Italy.

Since taking over operations from the Vella family in 2002, David Gremmels and Cary Bryant have

helped maintain Tom Vella’s passion to create the best product available, using locally produced raw

milk. The distinctive flavor of this mixed-milk blue cheese comes from a blend of 80% cow’s and 20%

goat’s milk to create a rich, buttery, sweet yet tangy blend.

First place winner of American Cheese Society’s Mixed Milk category in 2010, among many other

accolades, this multifaceted blue cheese can be used in nearly any recipe that calls for a dense, creamy

and smooth taste. Its subtle peppery finish is fantastic on summer salads, beef burgers, lamb roasts,

and grilled stone fruit and berries for a nice twist on dessert. For more information, please contact

Rogue Creamery or your FreshPoint representative.

ECHO MOUNTAIN BLUE CHEESE

SUCCULENTLY SWEET WITH THE ESSENCE

OF THE OCEAN, scallops are considered a

seafood delicacy by many people. They are very

versatile and can be prepared in many ways,

from simple searing and grilling to sautéing,

deep frying and baking. The scallop shell is

symmetrical and quite beautiful, and as such is

often found in motifs both decorative and

religious. Some notable examples are Boticelli’s

the Birth of Venus and the sign of any Shell

gasoline station.

There are three kinds of scallops consumed in

the United States — sea scallops, bay scallops

and calico scallops. Sea scallops are large and

are often presented in beautifully seared platings

of three or more. Bay scallops are much smaller,

and many think sweeter in taste. Due to their size

they are best suited for stir-fry or pasta

applications. Calico scallops are harvested off

the coast of the U.S. Gulf and unlike sea and bay

scallops, their shells are tightly closed and they

must be steamed open before further

preparation. Although similar in size and color to

bay scallops, they are less sweet than their

Northern cousins.

The best scallops are dry pack sea scallops.

Dry pack scallops are packaged without any

additives. A great number of scallops are actually

treated with an additive called STP (sodium

tripolyphosphate). STP helps keep the scallop

moist but also causes the scallops to absorb a lot

of excess moisture, sometimes as much as 50%

of their weight. Of course, since scallops are sold

by weight, this ultimately inflates the price. By

law, STP treated scallops must be sold as "wet

pack". Wet scallops when cooked have a

tendency to leach out a lot of liquid and it is

difficult to achieve a crust from searing due to

their high moisture content.

by Chef Jason Stein

SCALLOPS

The Fish Market

A SIMPLE, YET RESOUNDING INTEREST IN ARTS

AND CRAFTS drove Huntington Beach-based sugar

artist Shaile Socher to take a cake

decorating class ten years ago.

After numerous lessons in fondant

technique, design and piping

detail, she took a fortuitous

gumpaste class with acclaimed

international master cake and

sugar artist Nicholas Lodge. That

solidified her decision to make life-

like sugar flowers her edible

medium and career focus.

Gumpaste becomes similar to

fondant with the addition of

Tragacanth, a rare and expensive powder derived

from natural tree sap, making gumpaste “gummy”,

and malleable enough to roll out really thin. Tylose

powder is a more affordable substitute for Tragacanth.

Various molds and cutters can be used to create the

base shapes for leaves and flowers and from there,

different rollers and tools can be used to create

feather-like, detailed flower petals. Each petal is

shaped onto a wire before the creative manipulation

takes place, and when finished, anything from rolling

pins to empty egg cartons can be

used to set the shape of the piece

created. Careful persistence and a

steadfast hand are needed to create

gumpaste flowers since the product

dries quickly. Powdered food coloring

can be brushed onto the dried petals

or leaves to bring them closer to life.

Egg whites and extra Tylose powder

are used to help gumpaste bind to

the wires and cakes for the final

presentation. The shelf life of

gumpaste flowers is indefinite. While

edible, gumpaste is fairly tasteless when dried.

Socher won Best in Show at the San Diego

Cake show the last two years and had her work

featured at the Orange County Fair. Passionate

about giving back to the community, Socher has

also donated her decorated cookies and flowers to

the Venice California Historical Society.

http://sugarartist.wordpress.com

by Suzanna Hoang

EDIBLE SUGAR ARTSWEE T S PO T

8 www.great-taste.net | SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011

I N S I D E

Reap What You HarvestReap What You Harvest

TAKE IT OR LEAVE IT

by Chef Adam Navidi

ONCE AGAIN THE DEADLINE HAS PASSED, AND

I’M WALKING ON THIN ICE IN THE MIDDLE OF

SUMMER. My catering business is rocking and

finding the time to sit down somewhere solid and

throw you my thoughts will surely throw me deeper

into the abyss.

I’ve pondered this month’s theme, “Soups and

Fall,” and ideas/stories are simmering at a constant

temperature in my head. But they are not what I really

want to share with you. Who wants to think of fall in

the middle of summer, not me! Nor have I ever been

a huge soup fan.

Have you ever pondered how much cream can be

added to a soup before it no longer can be called a

soup? Or why anybody would want to fix a broken soup

in the first place? Let’s face it: your average soup isn’t

worth the salt you’ve thrown in it. The only reason you

have a soup du jour on your menu is because you got

leftover scraps in the kitchen that you need to get rid of.

Making fresh and exciting soups is a dying art in

today’s kitchens. The appreciation and understanding

of cooking fresh ingredients — while building or

marrying their flavors — has been lost in many cases.

To do a good soup right, it should be handled by the

saucier or line cook and finished à la minute; not by

some waiter or waitress who just got done wiping

some kid’s spit off a table with a dirty cloth.

That brings me to another topic — sanitation. I

recently spent the day getting recertified for my

food handler’s card. I always find it funny that in

the 23 years that I’ve been cooking professionally

and certified to handle food, the danger zone is

always changing by one or two degrees, back and

forth every couple of years. Where’s the group of

FDA lab techs that figure this out, and do those one

or two degrees really make that big a difference

when it comes to the dangers of cooking? How

many chefs or cooks prepare chicken breast to the

prescribed 185 degrees? That list goes on, and is

in need of its own article.

I was privy to some information in regard to

some recent hepatitis outbreaks in OC. There really

needs to be more focus on basic sanitation, such as

washing hands in the kitchen. Every cook should

learn the seven steps and the Happy Birthday song

of washing hands and this needs to become habit.

Gloves only work when working with one item.

It’s so easy to cross-contaminate when you’re

cooking and handling different food items. There

are never enough hand washing sinks on a busy line

and I despise the use of kitchen towels at every

station, under cutting boards or for wiping off

counters and hands. Lab techs should focus on

creating a sanitizing towelette that is economical

and compostable for restaurant use (one that is

strong enough to kill any bacteria within seconds of

being applied to the hands).

I’ll never forget the lesson I learned from one of

the first great chefs I worked for. He told me, “Wash

your hands in between everything you touch and

always before you touch your face! You will never get

anyone sick including yourself.” During my three

years working with him, he was never sick a day.

Since then I often go through a roll of paper towels

in a day. I wash my hands so much that I’ve had

reactions from using too much soap. I’ve even had

a local food writer comment in an article that I had

the cleanest hands he’d ever seen!

Once this becomes a ritual for your cooks and

staff it will become a habit for life. You’ll have

fewer staff calling in sick and you’ll keep the ‘Hep

out of the Prep!!’

SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011 | great taste 9

I N S I D E

by Chef Gabriel Caliendo

The Spice Rack

GROWING UP IN AN ITALIAN HOUSEHOLD

HAS HAD MANY BENEFITS ON THE

CULINARY FRONT. It’s this time of year they

start canning the final goodies from the

summer garden, and it’s always fun to help

with that. It is also a time when they start to

look toward the fall. As fall emerges, so does

my mother’s arsenal of hot and delicious soup

recipes. Bring on the ZUPPA!

One of the best simple soup recipes from

home is a vegetable soup. Sometimes it’s

morphed into Minestrone with the addition of

pasta, pesto and beans, but most often, it is

just a fresh broth derived from some of the

vegetables grown in the yard and the addition

of seasonings and spices. Dried basil and

oregano always make their way into that soup,

making it pungent and aromatic. Whenever

possible it is best to dry fresh basil and oregano.

Ground black pepper and crushed red chile

flakes round out this soup. Along with some

crusty bread and a glass of wine…Yep, you got it!

It is also during this season that I see lentils

and dried peas coming out of the grocery bags

more often. A clean water rinse and quick

sorting to remove any stones and they’re ready

to go. “Prosciutto scraps” say it all, but I’ll

elaborate for those who did not grow up eating

prosciutto in the crib as I did. The soup starts

with some onions, carrots, celery and garlic all

sweated out with olive oil; the small pieces of

prosciutto that were left over from a previous

use are added. The secret ingredient is a little

crushed fennel seed. It is added just before the

liquids so the essential oils are released during

the toasting and in small quantities so as to not

overpower the Zuppa. To finish, some vegetable

stock, chicken stock or water and some white

wine are added. The soup simmers until the

lentils are tender and a finishing drizzle of

extra virgin olive oil completes the magic.

Chef Gabriel Caliendo is the Vice President of

Food & Beverage and Principal of Lazy Dog Café.

ZUPPA!

10 www.great-taste.net | SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011

T R ENDS

These days, the economicrecession doesn’t stop foodiesfrom stretching their budgets todiscover (and rediscover) theflavors they love and crave.Desserts with a savory twist have

been a meal-ending concept for years, andthe ingenuity of chefs keeps thingseffortlessly innovative and balanced. Somechefs would argue that creating a savoryspin on dessert is less of a trendy aspectand more a concept of finding new flavorsand textures to balance out the sugarycomponent. While some customers willonly eat in their comfort zone, there isdefinitely a growing group of foodieswilling to challenge their taste buds withwhat some of Orange County’s bestconsistently have to offer. The culinaryhodgepodge of savory sweets include:

herb-scented cakes to peppercorn-braisedtropical fruits, crunchy nut pralines, andolive oil ice cream to subtly rich foie grasin a creamy cheesecake or garlicky squid-ink buns with sharp cheddar cheeseincased in a sweet, flakey bun. Sit back,enjoy, and stay for dessert.

Taro Bread, Squid Ink Buns with Vermontcheddar cheese and garlic, and Sea SaltCoffee, among other treats at 85 DegreesBakery and Café, Irvine.

Foie Gras Cheesecake with pecan crust,and kumquat marmalade at HavenGastropub, Orange.

Port-roasted figs, sesame tuile, cumin icecream, and port gastrique, at Anqi, CostaMesa.

Cheesecake, pink peppercorn braisedpineapple, rum caramel, and avocadosorbet at Splashes, Surf and Sand Hoteland Resort, Laguna Beach.

Spanish Virgin: Yogurt and olive oil poundcake, vanilla ice cream, orange confit,olive oil ice cream at Studio, MontageResort, Laguna Beach.

Organic lemon thyme pound cake,macerated strawberries, and crème fraicheat Le Pain Quotidien, coming soon toNewport Beach.

“Arroz con Leche” rice pudding, dried

apricots, salted caramel, hazelnut pralineat Catal Restaurant and Uva Bar,Anaheim.

Dark chocolate mousse gâteau, saltedcashew and cocoa crunch, brown butterice cream at Pinot Provence, Costa Mesa.

Butterscotch pudding with salted peanutsand shortbread cookie at A Restaurant,Newport Beach.

Whiskey and Coke: black pepper spongecake, Coke foam, whiskey ice cream, un-conched chocolate at Chapter One: TheModern Local, Santa Ana.

Sweet &Savoryby Suzanna Hoang

Desserts with a savory twist have been a meal-ending concept for years, and the ingenuity ofchefs keeps things effortlessly innovative andbalanced. Some chefs would argue that creating asavory spin on dessert is less of a trendy aspectand more a concept of finding new flavors andtextures to balance out the sugary component.

Salted Caramel Budino Terrarium with Ground ChocolateCovered Espresso Bean “Dirt” by Chef Meg Hall of Made by Meg

T R ENDS

SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011 | great taste 11

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA

HELPING OUR CUSTOMERS SUCCEEDFood Safety

Variety

Quality

Cost Control

The Fresh Produce Specialists

Call Toll-Free: 1-800-252-9165

www.FreshPoint.com

www.TheProduceHunter.com

155 North Orange Avenue, City of Industry, CA 91744

HUSBAND AND WIFE TEAM ROBERT ZUETELL AND

GINA GALVAN OPENED CHOMP CHOMP NATION in

2010 with a Singaporean street hawker concept. The

menu features Chili Crab Cakes, Singapore Sloppy

Joes, Tiger Slaw, Kaya Stuffed French Toast and their

house-made Iced Rose/Hibiscus Tea with Lychee.

They serve anywhere from 150 to 500 hungry

customers a day with a check average of $11.50.

Visit www.chompchompnation.com for menu, times

and locations.

WHAT IS CONCEPT/THEME OF FOOD TRUCK?

Singaporean street hawker favorites with American twist.

HOW, WHY DID YOU DECIDE TO START A FOOD

TRUCK? We started tracking them when Kogi got all

the press. We had a client who wanted to do a

restaurant and we advised looking into purchasing a

truck: lower barrier of entry, more flexibility in this

weak economy. We partnered with him when we saw

the gourmet food truck craze of the OC Foodie Fest.

WHAT ARE THE CHALLENGES OF THE SMALL

KITCHEN SIZE? Can’t hear the customers when the

fan is running full blast. No leaning over. Keep your

nuts to the wall. Limited counter space, need to be

neat and orderly or it all gets out of control. Seal

everything when traveling. Coconut syrup on the floor

makes for an interesting second shift.

WHAT DO YOU ENJOY ABOUT CONTACT WITH THE

PUBLIC? The immediate gratification of a pleased

customer and the lovely viral messages and pictures

about the Singaporean Chomp Chomp Nation experience.

WHAT’S THE BEST THING ABOUT A TRUCK VERSUS

A RESTAURANT? Flexibility and mobility. You can pick

up and go to another location-change your whole day.

HOW IS FOOD TRUCK FOOD DIFFERENT FROM

RESTAURANT FOOD? I see it as the same in flavors

and fusion of ingredients and techniques, but the

experience is different. Food has to be very portable.

DO YOU WANT TO HAVE A RESTAURANT SOME

DAY? Getting ready to do a first round of funding for a

fast casual brick and mortar and a new custom truck.

HOW ABOUT A DESCRIPTOR? Singapore Sling Wings

are natural chicken wings marinated 24 hours in the

actual drink, Singapore Sling (Brandy, Gin, TripleSec,

Grenadine and fruit juices) par-baked then reheated in

fryer on truck for 30 seconds, rolled in sauce of

marinade reserve and cherry and pineapple preserves.

Place on Tiger Slaw (10 ingredients) garnish with lime

and green onions serve with Root Chips (taro, yam,

cassava, lotus) and a side of sweet chili sauce.

(Pictured) Kaya Coconut Stuffed French Toast is

brioche slices stuffed with Kaya coconut curd dipped

in vanilla cinnamon egg batter, grilled until golden,

quartered; then drizzled with condensed milk, coconut

syrup, coconut whipped cream (make ourselves),

sprinkled with Chomp Chomp dust, (special blend of

powder sugar, cocoa powder, cardamom, cinnamon,

clove, nutmeg, and chili powder) garnished with mint

chiffonade and a lime wedge.

by Linda MensingaFood Truck Fever

SUR L E MENU

Macaroni & Cheese

320 Main – Seal BeachBaked with mozzarella, cheddar, jack andbleu cheese and topped with Swisscheese, add smoked duck.

21 Oceanfont – Newport Beach Blue cheese penne au gratin.

2nd Floor – Huntington BeachHarmonious blend of cheddar, Parmesan,gouda cheeses, bacon and a hint ofjalapeño.

3 Thirty 3 Waterfront – Newport BeachThe classic with smoked bacon crumbles.

A Restaurant – Newport BeachAged white cheddar and bleu cheese.

The Alley Restaurant – Newport BeachBaked with crimini mushrooms, bacon andGruyere.

Arroyo Chop House – PasadenaMac & cheese, Black Forest ham.

Bandera – Corona del MarWalnut cornbread crumbles

The Capital Grille – Costa MesaLobster mac ‘n’ cheese, baked campanelle

pasta and fresh lobster meat, tossed in amascarpone, havarti and grana padanocream sauce, topped with panko breadcrumbs and grated white cheddar.

Charlie Palmer at Bloomingdale’s SouthCoast Plaza – Costa Mesa (pictured)Truffled mac and cheese.

The Corner – Huntington BeachGnocchi “mac & cheese”, artichoke hearts,sun-dried tomato, melted Parmesan.

Delius Restaurant – Signal HillChipotle macaroni and cheese, add shrimpor andouille sausage.

Haven Gastropub – OrangeBlack truffles, Gruyere, fontina, Parmesan.

Kimera Restaurant Lounge – IrvineTruffle oil mac “n” cheese, portobellomushrooms, jalapeño, pancetta andfontina cheese.

K’ya Bistro Bar – Laguna BeachThree cheese macaroni, wild mushrooms,pesto, truffle crust, Parmesan, Gruyere,gorgonzola.

Palm Terrace, The Island Hotel – Newport Beach

Elbow pasta with Taleggio cheese, crushedtruffles and a Parmesan tuile.

Park Ave – StantonSpicy lobster mac n cheese, toastedpepper and 3 cheese sauce.

Ruby’s Streamliner Lounge – OrangeLobster mac & cheese, 4 cheese sauceand sun dried tomatoes.

Savannah Chop House – Laguna NiguelLobster with béchamel sauce, Gruyere,Parmesan, and white cheddar cheese.

Slater’s 50/50 – Anaheim HillsBacon mac n’cheese.

The Yard House – Various LocationsChicken breast, applewood smoked bacon,wild mushrooms, cheddar and Parmesanwith campanelle pasta and white truffleoil.

The Sky Room – Long BeachLobster mac & cheese, cheddar, Gruyere,bechamel sauce.

The Winery – TustinPorcini mushroom, blue cheese andmacaroni gratin.

The ultimate comfort food, macaroni and cheese movedfrom home kitchens to restaurants some time ago. MartyWells (see Bad to the Bone) makes his popular versionwith sharp cheddar, cream and romano cheeses, with atouch of white wine and nutmeg at Bad to the Bone BBQSan Juan Capistrano.

Food trucks (The Grilled Cheese Truck) to upscale restaurants(The Sky Room in Long Beach) serve this familiar family favorite inscores of variations. Cheeses and pastas come in multiple forms, andadd-ins range from spicy jalapeños to luxurious truffles. Websites andblogs are devoted to the subject, and recipes are too numerous tocount, try, read or even imagine. The Southern California versionsbelow are a world away from the box with noodles and dried cheesepowder. Enjoy the cheesy goodness with Sur Le Menu!

12 www.great-taste.net | SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011

SUR L E MENU

SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011 | great taste 13

3 Cheese Mac “N” Cheese

COVER RECIPE

By: Marty Wells at Bad to the Bone

1 Bag macaroni noodles - large, ridged3 T Butter2 Shallots - minced1/4 C white wine2 C Manufacturing cream1/2 C Cream cheese - softened1/2 t Nutmeg - optional1 C Sharp cheddar cheese - Tillamook1/2 C Romano cheese

1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees F.

2. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

Add macaroni pasta and cook for 8 - 10

minutes or until al dente, drain.

3. In a 3 quart saucepan over medium heat,

melt butter, add shallots and cook for 3 - 4

minutes until tender. Add white wine and

reduce by half.

4. Add manufacturing cream to shallot

mixture and bring to a simmer. Add cream

cheese to the cream and shallots, whisk until

smooth. Add remaining cheeses a little at a time

until melted and thoroughly incorporated.

Reserve some cheddar for topping. Add nutmeg

if you wish.

5. In a large bowl add cooked macaroni and

enough cheese sauce to coat well. Pour into a

buttered casserole dish and top with

remaining sharp cheddar cheese and bake for

12-15 minutes or until golden brown and

heated through.Island Hotel’s Mac & Cheese

Butternut squash is hands down the fall’s most iconic soup, an ongoing favorite thatinspires countless variation in kitchens everywhere. Pumpkin, lentil, leek andpepper soups also make appearances on local menus. We surveyed chefs abouttheir plans for the season’s menus. Soup’s comfort food status guarantees thebeloved classics never go out of style.

SOUPS COMING THIS FALL TO A BOWL NEAR YOURosti Tuscan Kitchen is just one of many who will feature butternut squash soup, one of theirtop sellers along with Tuscan lentil and minestrone. “We serve a Tuscan beef stew each year.Guests call in to see when it’s available,” said Kevin Goldfein, Owner/Operator.

Ecco Restaurant at the Camp in Costa Mesa brings fall into focus with another butternutsquash soup. Their version, by Chef Kris Kirk, is made with pancetta, spiced creme fraiche andsage. Minestrone and Italian wedding soup are regular menu favorites. Kirk noted less creamand bigger spice in his soups meeting guest demands for healthier items.

This year Kirk plans to incorporate fennel pollen and truffle salt into his soups.At Daily Grill in Woodland Hills, butternut squash joins gazpacho, Manhattan clam

chowder, split pea and chicken noodle on the menu by Chef Phil Kastel.Matador Cantina Chef David Dennis also offers a butternut or pumpkin soup but tops his

by Linda Mensinga

S i m m e r u p c o m f o r t

f o r t h e S e a S o n

14 www.great-taste.net | SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011

Butternut Squash & Leek Soup at Old Vine Cafe. Photo by Linda Mensinga (recipe on page 16)

creamy puree with pepitas and crèmefraiche. He’ll also make chipotle, cornchowder, tortilla and pozole. Their best-seller is albondigas. “It’s our housemade specialty, done in seasonedtomato-based beef stock with meatballs,bacon, fresh vegetables and rice,” hesaid.

“Due to popular demand, thebutternut squash & leek bisque is alwaysthe seasonal choice!” said MarkMcDonald, Chef at Old Vine Café inCosta Mesa’s earthy mall, The Camp.His porcini mushroom bisque is anongoing best seller.

Chef Jenny Ross at 118 Degrees inCosta Mesa serves her butternut squashsoup with fresh rosemary and butternutcrisps. She turns up the volume byadding chilies, corn, red bell pepper andchili squash to her tomato soup thatcomes with avocado and corn chips. Hershitake miso soup, another favorite, hashealthful fresh seaweed and scallions.

Executive Chef Pangilinan at

Leatherby’s Café Rouge in Costa Mesamakes vegetable based soups that vary withwhat’s freshest that season. “In the fall I liketo make sunchoke and green apple or celeryroot with black truffle. Both are made withno cream but they are still rich but notheavy,” he said.

“Fall is peak soup season since it’sharvest time. We’ll be making organictomato based soups of all kinds: tomato andcannellini bean, tomato lemon verbena,tomato calabacita and ginger. We also enjoymaking green and red gazpachos with thefall bounty. Harira (a Moroccan chickpea,lentil and tomato soup) with extra greenvegetables and cilantro is an autumnfavorite,” said Mark Cleveland, Chef/Partnerat Avanti Café in Costa Mesa. Cleveland andPartner Tanya Fuqua regularly sell tomatolentil rosemary, mushroom barley garammasala pumpkin and kale.

“Chowders will be big on our menus. Wedo a vegetarian corn and poblano chowder,chicken chorizo chowder and a traditionalNew England clam chowder,” said Larry

SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011 | great taste 15

F EATUR E : L ’ E N T R E E´

Continued on page 16

Cioppino at TAPS Fish House & Brewery

ChEf fAVORITEs

BEST SOUPS EVER Zov: Harira (Moroccan tomato, lentil and chickpea

soup) and purée of butternut squash.

Ross Pangilinan: Tofu soup with eel. It was at Joel

Robuchon in Vegas, one of the most inspiring

dishes I have had and the highlight of that

expensive meal. My favorite restaurant for stew is

Pinoy Pinay, a fast food Filipino restaurant that

reminds me of my grandparents’ cooking- a lot of

pork and stew like dishes. My favorite one is called

kare kare, a stew made with peanut sauce, oxtail,

tripe, vegetables, shrimp paste, and finished with

calamansi juice.

Lesley Fay: My fresh tomato & basil bisque or my

mulligatawny.

Diego Velasco: Actually, the soup was one my wife

made. It was a vichyssoise of sorts that was a puree

of leek, red skinned potatoes and zucchini.

Chicken stock was used to add body and richness,

finished with chives.

Jason Tuley: My Sous Chef Spencer Johnston’s

oyster chowder and the beef tail broth soup at Han

Bat Sul Lung Tang in Koreatown in Los Angeles.

David Dennis: Pho at Olivia’s bistro.

Larry Banares: Essence of Crab Olympic with

avocado brunoise and poppy seed fleuron at the

Cheval Blanc Restaurant in the Makati Shangri-La

Hotel Philippines. From Villa Manila Restaurant in

San Diego a couple of soups come to mind:

Nilagang Baka, a broth soup with bok choy,

potatoes, beef and bone marrow and Tinola, a

chicken soup scented with ginger green papaya

and Malunggay (a leafy herb with many nutritional

benefits) and Pancit Molo, a broth with shrimp and

pork dumplings, scallion cloves of fried garlic.

Mark Cleveland: Pasta Fajoli is one amazing soup.

Mushroom barley is up there with harira, hot and

sour soup, mushroom wonton, ribollita (Tuscan

bread soup), classic miso soup with wakame,

scallions and sesame seeds.

Mark McDonald: Bamboo Bistro is great for soup

and Anjin has a short rib soup that is really tasty.

Marco Colin: Lobster bisque.

Kris Kirk: Black truffle soup en croute feuilletee

served at Paul Bocuse in France.

Jenny Ross: Alaskan halibut fisherman’s chowder

at 230 Forest Ave., Chef Marc Cohen.

Alfred Katopodis: She-crab soup/gumbo.

FAVORITE FALL INGREDIENTSRoss Pangilinan: Brussels sprouts, so good with

bacon. I also like to pair quince with duck or foie gras.

David Dennis: Pumpkin and pumpkin seeds. I like

to garnish things and pumpkin works well with a

number of items from soups to desserts.

Mark McDonald: Butternut squash, kabocha

squash, apples.

Zov: Brussels sprouts, butternut squash, Swiss

chard, kale, faro and quinoa.

Diego Velasco: A variety of mushrooms, hard

squash such as acorn and butternut, heartier

greens like kale, chard and Bloomsdale spinach as

well as fall pears and apples.

Lesley Fay: Roasted cauliflower, garam masala,

beets roasted; I could eat fennel (or anise) on

anything: raw, roasted or fried.

Jason Tuley: Sunchokes, celery root, asparagus,

and quince.

Alfred Katopodis: Osso buco, stews.

Marco Colin: Apples, figs, pecans, pumpkins,

cinnamon and garlic.

Kris Kirk: Pomegranates, quince, Brussels sprouts,

cavolo nero, kale, rapini.

Banares, Executive Chef at the Queen Mary. “Classic lobster bisqueis a mainstay on the menu in Sir Winston’s, our signature dining roomand the chowders star in our seafood restaurant, Chelsea ChowderHouse.”

Chef Banares uses tart apples in his onion soup with Stiltoncheese crust and takes advantage of smoked and cured meats to givehis soups great flavor foundation. “I’ve been getting great feedbackon my cold asparagus veloute served as a starter or intermezzo,” headded.

Chef Marco Colin will serve pumpkin and yellow pepper soupalong with minestrone at Nieuport 17 in Newport Beach. Heincorporates cinnamon and garlic in his seasonal and regularofferings of lentil, navy bean, lobster bisque, and clam chowder.

Chef/owner of Graham’s Grille in Taos, New Mexico, Lesley B.Fay is known for her soups. “I will bring in a New Mexicancalabacitas (pumpkin) soup for fall. It has sweetness with NewMexican chile as spice and we top it with toasted pepitas (pumpkinseeds),” she said. She always has corn and crab chowder. “The cornis fire roasted. We add applewood smoked bacon and Yukon goldpotatoes. It’s been on the menu since we opened four years ago weCANNOT ever take it off.”

As the cooler weather approaches, the Grille will serve heartierNew Mexican red chile stew on cheddar cheese polenta, green chilestew, and lamb stew adobo.

“We push the envelope on spices as I am a spice addict but wehave to be careful with heat. People say they like heat but they reallydon’t. I offer my guests Thai Sriracha and Mexican Cholula ascondiments,” Leslie said.

“Heartier, comforting soups such Tuscan kale and bean withsausage, purées of root vegetables and squashes such as potato-leekor zucchini & mint,” said Diego Velasco, Chef and Owner of MemphisCafé in Costa Mesa, about his upcoming soups. “Our mainstay hasalways been our unique Down Home Gumbo. Filled with Creolevegetables, smoked chicken, chicken based andouille sausage andokra, it’s topped with steamed rice and shrimp, served with

cornbread.” His guests also love the smoked tomato and basil bisqueand shrimp and grilled corn chowder sold every Friday.

“It is nice to see soups becoming heartier in preparation forcooler weather. Long simmered stews and chilis as well as soups thatinclude warming spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg, and allspicecome to mind. I think comfort will still play a major roll this season.I might even incorporate braises into our soups including ingredientssuch as short ribs, brisket and pork belly,” said Velasco.

At The Churchill in West Hollywood Executive Chef Jason Tuleywill serve his favorite mushroom made of mushroom stock andchanterelle mushrooms. “This fall we will try a new soup with crone(or crosne, a root vegetable with a nutty, sweet taste) and grey shallotsfrom our friends at Stonecrest Farms,” Tuley said.

Boulder Organic Foods in Boulder, Colorado, will sell a butternutsquash, roasted corn chowder with Serrano and miso according toGreg Powers. Their standards include red lentil dahl, potato leek,carrot ginger with coconut and green pea with dill.

Zov Karamardian at Zov’s Bistro in Tustin is planning a pureeof pumpkin soup and a green lentil with Swiss chard. She alwayskeeps golden lentil on her menu. Coconut chicken withlemongrass, puréed mushroom and chicken noodle are alsoperennial favorites.

SOUPS TO GOMost restaurants sell their soups to go too. “Our bean type soupsfreeze very well,” said Kastel.

Banares sells soups to go. “Most soups will freeze well if placedin a proper storage container. Freezer strength zip-loc bags are greatfor freezing in smaller batches,” he said.

Velasco is in the process of figuring out the best packaging for acustomer that wants their gumbo shipped to Florida. “We do sellquite a bit of gumbo for parties and corporate events,” he said.

Zov sells soup to go and pointed out, “Some freeze well, not all.Creamed soups do not freeze well.”

Ecco also sells soup to go. “I think they freeze pretty well, butnothing beats a bowl of freshly made soup,” Kirk said.

16 www.great-taste.net | SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011

F EATUR E : L ’ E N T R E E´

Continued from page 15

by Mark McDonald, Old Vine Café

4 Large ripe butternut squash - quartered & seeded

1 Large yellow onion - cut into 1/8 pieces

5 Whole cloves garlic2 Large leeks - dark green discarded,

cleaned & chopped

4 qt Chicken stock1/4 t Pumpkin pie spice

SaltGround white pepper

2 C Heavy whipping cream

1. Combine all ingredients (except salt, pepper

and heavy cream) in a large stock pot and bring

to a boil on high.

2. Reduce heat so that the liquid is gently

boiling (about medium heat) and leave for one

hour.

3. Bring the heat back up to high and add the

heavy whipping cream. Boil for 10 minutes.

4. Remove the pot from the stove. Using a

blender, purée small batches of the mixture

until the pot is empty. After the entire mixture

is puréed, strain the soup through a fine mesh

wire strainer.

5. After the soup has been puréed and strained,

return it to a large stock pot and cook on high

heat until it reaches a simmer, stirring

frequently.

6. Season to taste with salt and white pepper.

The consistency of the soup should just coat a

spoon. If the soup seems thick, add chicken

stock until the desired texture is met.

7. Garnish with fried leeks and a drizzle of extra

virgin olive oil. Makes about 6 quarts and can

be refrigerated for up to six days.

Butternut Squash & Leek Soup

SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011 | great taste 17

F EATUR E : C H E F D E C U I S I N E

CH E F P R O FI

LEFARMLANDFOODS

SP

O

N S O R E DB

Y

**

When you walk into Bad to the Bone, San Juan Capistrano, you are immediately struckwith two things: the space is huge compared to what is expected walking in, and thecustomers look like they have sat in their seats many times before; there is an instantsense of familiarity. Co-owners Chef Marty Wells and Al Meyling have the monopoly ontrue American BBQ in Orange County. Their restaurant has tripled from its original size;

and they would take over the entire plaza if it were available. In tough times like these, it is inspirationalto know that restaurants still boom. In this Bad Bone BBQ world, the pair have mastered dining, take-out,and catering to create their success.

Straight from Oklahoma, Marty is a self taught chef (with a little help from his uncle) who joined atraveling rodeo for twenty years, one which covered 60,000 miles a year. He learned to cook on the roadsince eating out every meal was not an option. When he met his future wife in California, his travelinginevitably came to an end. So when it was time to settle down he turned to his second passion, BBQ.Bad to the Bone started as catering with a portable smoker and soon grew into a full blown restaurant in2005.

I was lucky enough to get a tour of the kitchen where the smoking meats schedule is down to ascience. They have two temperature-controlled, walk-in sized smokers that can hold 1,000 pounds ofrotating meat at one time. Brisket and pork butt cook overnight; chicken, ribs, and tri-tip cook twice a day

Chef Marty Wellsby Chef Katie Averill

Continued on page 18

Photo by Michael Rutt

F EATUR E : C H E F D E C U I S I N E

18 www.great-taste.net | SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011

in preparation for lunch and dinner. They alsohave a mesquite wood fed grill which takesconstant attention. They go through 200gallons of BBQ sauce a week; it’s Carolinastyle vinegar based sauce, not the overlysweet ketchup kind.

What are the most popular signaturedishes? For entrees it’s the pulled pork(amazing!), baby back ribs and 30-day agedtri-tip. The bar crowd favors the pulled porknachos. Other favorites include the pintobaked beans which have chunks of brisketthroughout, no corners cut. Mac and Cheeseis another popular side dish, comfort food atits best.

On your way out you can purchase theirsecret dry rub, original BBQ sauce, and theirpepper sauce. Instead of marinating meatthey have found that dry rub is the key. Themeat gets “rubbed” and then it goes into thesmoker. To top it off, Bad to the Bone even

has their own beer label — CapistranoBrewing. Happy hour is from 3 pm - 6 pmweekdays with live music on the weekendsso dining in-house is sure to be a good time.We are lucky to have true BBQ this side ofTexas and Oklahoma at Bad to the Bone.When you’re in the mood for BBQ, nothingelse will do. The line out the door speaks foritself.

What are the most popular signature dishes? Forentrees it’s the pulled pork (amazing!), baby backribs and 30-day aged tri-tip. The bar crowd favorsthe pulled pork nachos. Other favorites include thepinto baked beans which have chunks of brisketthroughout, no corners cut. Mac and Cheese isanother popular side dish, comfort food at its best.

By: Marty Wells

1 lb Pinto beansBeef base

1 Yellow onion - chopped4 Cloves garlic - minced1/4 C Olive oil

Salt and black pepper - to taste1 T Cumin1 T Chili powder1 T Granulated garlic1/4 C Liquid Smoke or brisket drippings2 T Crystal Hot Sauce1/2 lb Brisket trimmings or any other

leftover smoked meats1/4 C Brown sugar1 C BBQ sauce

Soak beans overnight in water; drain and fill

pot with water, enough to cover and bring to a

boil and add beef base.

Meanwhile, sauté onion and garlic in olive oil

until translucent; season with salt and pepper.

Add onion mixture, cumin, chili powder,

granulated garlic, pepper, Liquid Smoke or

brisket trimmings and hot sauce to beans and

continue to simmer over medium heat for 1

1/2 to 2 hours until beans are tender. Add

BBQ sauce, brown sugar and salt; mix well

and continue to simmer until all ingredients

are mixed well and sugar is dissolved. Add salt

and pepper to taste.

Ranch Style Beans

27545 PASEO TOLUCASAN JUAN CAPISTRANO, CA 92675949-218-0227WWW.BADTOTHEBONE-BBQ.COM

SUN - THURS 11 AM - 9 PMFRI & SAT 11 AM - 10 PM

1ST COOKING OR FOOD-RELATED MEMORY:Cooking in the kitchen with my grandfather

making potato soup at age 6.

WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST JOB? Working on myparents Quarter Horse Ranch in Oklahoma

WHAT FIRST INTERESTED YOU IN THEHOSPITALITY INDUSTRY? Always enjoyedcooking and felt when my rodeo career was

complete I would like to open a restaurant.

FAVORITE KITCHEN APPLIANCE: Ole HickorySmoker/BBQ Pit

CONDIMENT/SPICE: Cumin

FAVORITE TYPE OF COOKWARE: Dutch Oven

SIGNATURE OR FAVORITE DISH TO MAKE:Hickory Smoked Beef Brisket

FAVORITE OC RESTAURANT: Beach Fire

FAVORITE RAW INGREDIENT: Garlic

YEARS OF CULINARY EDUCATION: Self Taught

OTHER EDUCATION: Oklahoma University

PLACES TRAVELED TO EXPLORE & LEARNADDITIONAL CUISINES: Traveled all over theUnited States and Canada while I was a

Professional Rodeo Cowboy.

WHAT 3 WORDS BEST DESCRIBE YOURCULINARY STYLE? Fresh, Authentic, Flavorful

Bad To The Bone BBQ

Chef Marty Wells

MAKE CONTACT

SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011 | great taste 19

T H E B I Z : B A C K O F T H E H O U S E

It’s time to either replace or purchasean espresso machine. Where do youstart? It can be very confusing onceyou discover the selections includesemi-automatic, automatic, superautomatic, super automatic with

milk; one, two, and three group machines.Are you pulling you hair out yet? Do youhave 50 or 300 seats? Who’s going tooperate the espresso machine? Servers,

bartenders or a barista? What are theelectrical, water and drain requirements?Health department approval? How much dothey cost? Have any hair left?

OK, let’s take a deep breath and walkthrough this, step by step.

The vast majority of restaurants useeither a traditional automatic espressomachine or a super automatic espressomachine.

Traditional automatic espressomachines, the ones with portafilters orgroup handles (see photo), program theamount of espresso extracted. An espressogrinder is also needed, unless you’re usingpods or capsules (pre-portioned, pre-ground packets of espresso). The milk forcappuccinos or lattes is frothed manually.

This system requires more labor butonce mastered, a drink can be made in aminute start to finish. It takes about 15minutes to show someone how to make anespresso or cappuccino, which does notmake them a barista by any means.

The super automatic espresso machinedoes everything with just the push of abutton. Super automatics come with orwithout a milk system for foaming.

Traditional machines start at a lowercost (about $3000 for a one group) thansuper automatics (starting at about$9,000).

What are other differences to consider?Traditional machines have up to four groupheads (receptacles for handles) so it ispossible to make two, three, four or more

espressos at a time. The super automatic can make one or

two at a time. Consider how many seatsyou have and who will make the drinks. Ifyour restaurant has 50 seats a traditionalone or two group would work. If you have alarger establishment and the servers aregoing to make their own drinks, a superautomatic or a three group traditional maybe right.

The electrical requirement affectschoice. Do you have only a 110 volt outletor is a 220 volt outlet available? One groupand some two groups are available in 110volts; anything larger usually needs a 220volt. Super automatics require 220 volts.

Typically, the company you purchaseyour espresso machine from will eitherhave their own service techs or arelationship with a service company in yourarea to provide service. Make sure to askwho will install, provide your service andthe hours and days they are available.

Health department approved? Althoughthe espresso machine may be “NSF” or“ETL” certified it is important to make surethere are no additional certificationsneeded. For example, in Los Angelesespresso machines must also be approvedby the city testing lab. The city approvalwill tell you if there are any other necessaryconditions of approval. Again in LosAngeles, the installation of an “approvedspring-loaded double check valve” is onecondition of approval. Ask the companyyou’re purchasing from what approvals themachine has and if any other extras areneeded.

NEXT ISSUE: Tips on maintenance andservice.

Paul Giannotti is President of A TECHEspresso & Coffee Service, Inc. Theyconsult, install, maintain and repair coffeeand espresso machines. For moreinformation, please call 323.720.1682 orvisit www.atech-service.com.

by Paul Giannotti

Make the right purchasing decision: guidelines tothe best espresso machine for your operation.

RightTool forthe Job

20 www.great-taste.net | SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011

T H E B I Z : O P E R AT I O N S

An improved economy hasturned the financial tide formany businesses, includingthe hospitality industry.Regardless of the state ofrevenues, restaurant and hotel

owners and facility managers areconstantly on the lookout for mechanismsto cut costs without sacrificing quality ofservice. One area that is often overlooked

in terms of budget trimming is lighting.And that’s a shame since new technologycan offer a simple solution to permanentlyreduce energy overhead.

Today, LED lighting is changing the waybusinesses look at signage. Generallyspeaking, LED signs cost about 10% lessthan comparable neon signs; but the total cost of purchase, operation andmaintenance is quite significant. In fact, arecent comparison between the cost of astandard logo with 24 inch channel lettersin neon and the same logo equipped with

LED modules is a dramatic illustration ineconomics — the neon illumination camein at $286.56 annually, while the LEDlighting cost $22.30 per year. Forrestaurants and hotels with multiplelocations, switching to LED modules couldtranslate into considerable savings.

LED lighting virtually eliminates theneed for maintenance; this is a particularlyvital aspect to a guest-driven industry,where a disruption in service is certain tohave a negative impact.

While on the subject of driving in guests,consider this: LED signs have a muchgreater viewing distance, especially at night— allowing a facility’s message to reachmore people for more hours of the day. LEDmessage center technology can produce a

sign that is clear and easy to read from adistance, even in bright sunlight, makingthem an effective form of advertising.

LED lighting has no fragile glass tubesthat can break during transportation orinstallation and have no hazardous wastemercury disposal issues. Highly durableand brighter than neon, LED signs can lastmore than 50,000 hours. And LED signscan use as little as 10 watts, 6 to 10 timesless than neon signs.

LED signage can also contribute torestaurant or hotel “branding.” LED

modules offer a variety of flashing, colorand animation options since they arecomprised of many separate small lights,as opposed to neon lighting’s continuousglass tube. As such, they can act as a“first impression” to new visitors, and becustomized to correspond with a facility’sstyle and ambience.

The benefits of LED-based signage are many — from reduced energyconsumption to low maintenance and longlife; it is an illumination trend that is sureto remain in the spotlight.

Thom Connolly is President and CEO ofInternational Light Technologies, a leadingdesigner, manufacturer and distributor oflighting products and equipment based inPeabody, MA. www.intl-lighttech.com

LEDsGet aGreenLight by Thom Connolly

Save money and the environment by switching toLED lighting.

T H E B I Z : O P E R AT I O N S

SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011 | great taste 21

You might think that gale-forcewinds and a tropical stormwould not make for idealoutdoor wine tastingconditions, but judging by thenumbers in attendance at last

November’s San Diego Bay Wine & FoodFestival, you’d be wrong.

The horizontal rain and unseasonablycold, Minnesota-like temperatures mayhave dampened the spirits of some tastersand scared away others (2010’s Festivalattendance didn’t quite measure up to therecord-breaking numbers in 2009), butthat didn’t stop several thousand foodies,gourmets and wine lovers from donningtheir slickers, huddling around heat lamps,and braving the drippy edges of tents tosample 800-plus wines available at the2010 Fest.

Having attended since 2008, this wasthe first year I could remember that MotherNature decided to rain on the party (everyprevious year had been sunny and high70’s), but the organizers have assured methat they are doing everything in theirpower to dis-invite her wrath from thisupcoming November’s Festival.

In its eighth year, 2011, the San DiegoBay Wine & Food Festival has emerged asthe must-attend culinary affair for any self-respecting foodie in southern California,and the Festival itself has grown into muchmore than the single-day Grand Tastingthat is the event’s cornerstone. Now theFestival kicks off on a Wednesday with theSan Diego Wine Rave (November 16th for2011), followed by two full days ofcelebrity cooking classes and wineappreciation events on Thursday andFriday. Finally it builds to a climax with theGrand Tasting Event on Saturday (this yearNovember 20th) at the Embarcadero Parkbehind Seaport Village in downtown SanDiego, featuring over 170 wineries and 70different local restaurants.

The highlight of the Festival for me isthe Reserve and New Release Tasting onFriday night. Scores of participatingwineries save their best for first, pouringonly their reserve, library or new releasewines to a smaller, more wine-savvy crowd.The Reserve Tasting is a terrific opportunityto not only taste the best wines each wineryhas to offer, but to chat up the owner orwinemaker–usually the person pouring–andfind out more about the process and storybehind each wine. Plus, you don’t have tofight the larger crowds as at the GrandTasting Event.

Here are a few of my personal highlightsfrom last year’s Reserve Tasting:

• Discussing the Edna Valley andemerging Santa Barbara vineyards withowners Gareth and Tom Conway of DeepSea/Conway Family Wines while sippingtheir crisp Central Coast Chardonnay andexquisitely complex Santa Rita Hills PinotNoir.

• Learning about the inspirationbehind and getting first crack at up-and-coming Paso winemaker Will Persall’sSpanish and Bordeaux wines at his WCPCellars table.

• Working my way down the entirelength of the Vins de Provence section,tasting rosé after glorious rosé fromproducers in Bandol, Cassis, Tavel, Lirac,and the Cotes de Provence (though thiswould have been even nicer at the GrandTasting, had the weather cooperated).

Sounds like fun, doesn’t it? Trust me,you really don’t want to miss out onanything the San Diego Bay Wine & FoodFestival has to offer in 2011. Tickets for allof the Festival’s events, including the WineRave and the cooking and wineappreciation classes, can be purchasedonline, www.worldofwineevents.com. Andone last tip to the wine wise: it’s totallyworth procuring the VIP tickets to theGrand Tasting. That first hour without thegeneral public involved makes all thedifference in the world!

Chris Kern is the owner and founder ofonline wine shop Chris Kern’s ForgottenGrapes (www.ForgottenGrapes.com) andthe creator and host of the Sunday NightChef Fights (sundaynightcheffights.com).E-mail him directly atchris@forgottengrapes.com.

22 www.great-taste.net | SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011

T H E B I Z : B E V E R A G E S

SoCal’sBest WineFestby Chris Kern

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