Great Taste Magazine 2011 Mar/Apr Issue

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PAIDPermit No. 400Laguna Beach CA

YARD HOUSE GARDEIN© 10 GLUTEN-FREE 14 HERB LIQUEUR 22

MARCH • APRIL 2011

GT_MarApr2011 Issue:Layout 2/25/11 3:24 PM Page 1

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F ROM TH E ED I TOR

MARCH • APRIL 2011 | great taste 3

T ER I’STAKE

What’s your favorite out of town restaurant?Recently, we went to BigBear for the weekend andwhen we browsed onlineprior to our trip, we just

couldn't find a place that we wanted to go.I started asking around and got

recommendations for Chef Jason Stein’sfave, Stillwell's, and from Benjamin Epsteinwho had just discovered some fabulousflavor at The Himalayan. With thoserecommendations in hand, off we went. Wedidn’t get to go to either of those pickssince six of us had to all agree, but wefound a wonderful spot: Evergreen.

We’ve decided to save all our friends thetrouble of searching for delicious dishes inCalifornia and to start a directory of out-of-town recommended spots to augment thecomprehensive directory that we alreadyhave of your local hot spots.

Send us all your picks so we can passalong your recommendations and we’llupdate you with any comments we collectregarding your favorites.

In this issue, Chef Miriam Ramirez of Quattro Caffé prepared her signature Fettuccine allaPescatora. A twist on the typical fettuccine dish, Chef Ramirez’s version is al dente andtopped with a flavorful mix of Mexican white shrimp, Alaskan sea scallops, tomatoes, whitewine, and clam juice. Garlic, thyme, oregano, rosemary, and basil blend wonderfullytogether to give the dish a unique, herbal kick. The recipe is on page 13.

On T he Cove r

C O N T E N T Con t en t

MORE T

HAN C

HEFS

Out of the kitchen

and into the writer’s

chair, these talented

chefs share their

expertise with us as

our Culinary Advisors.Corporate Executive Chef

Lazy Dog Cafe

GABRIEL CALIENDO

Executive Chef

Adam Navidi Catering

ADAM NAVIDI

Corporate Pastry Chef

KATIE AVERILL

Executive Chef

JASON STEIN

}

F E ATURES14 HEALTH FOOD REVOLUTION

Take an inside look at life with Celiac

Disease and how True Food Kitchen has

found success in offering gluten-free and

all-organic dishes

17 CHEF MIRIAM RAMIREZ

I N S I D E4 TIDBITS

Find out who’s hot and new now

5 KUDOS

Acknowledging the hard work of this

great industry

5 BOOKS

All you ever needed to know about whisky

in The World’s Best Whiskies by Dominic

Roskrow

THE B I Z10 TRENDS

Chef Carlito Jocson of Yard House chats

with us about their new Gardein© menu

20 FRONT OF THE HOUSE

Herb Cocktails

21 BACK OF THE HOUSE

How to grow your own restaurant garden

22 BEVERAGES

Absinthe, Bitters, and Galliano...who

knew herbs could be this much fun?

DEPARTMENTS6 SPICE RACK

7 CHEESE PICK OF THE MONTH

7 PRODUCE PICK OF THE MONTH

7 TAKE IT OR LEAVE IT

8 BAKING RACK

9 FISH MARKET

12 SUR LE MENU


Mi Casa Mexican Restaurant & Bar (above) in CostaMesa recently underwent major renovations. The backroom, known as the “Burro Room Bar,” was given abig makeover. This is the first time the restaurant hasbeen renovated since it opened in 1972. The designof the new bar incorporates elements of the original

bar and has added retro memorabilia, recognizing the restaurant’sheritage of multi-generations of family enjoying food and fun.

Taco Asylum, an eatery new to the CAMP opened in January witha menu that includes 10 selections of rather unusual tacos byExecutive Chef Greg Daniels and Restaurant Manager Chef CodyStorts. Favorites include the Short Rib, Curried Paneer and WildMushroom Tacos and the accompanying house-made Chips. TacoAsylum is the newest creation from The Haven Collective. PartnersGreg Daniels, Wil Dee and Ace Patel opened their first restaurant,Haven Gastropub, in September 2009. Plans for their secondHaven Gastropub to open this year in Pasadena are well on their way.The Partners play distinct roles at each restaurant with Wil Deeserving as Beverage Director and Greg Daniels as Executive Chef.

Zpizza is creating quite a stir with their Zpizza rusticas. Rusticasare fire-baked personal-sized pizzas that are made with organicwheat dough. “We wanted to create a healthier, artisan pizza withmany unique flavor profiles inspired by global cuisines,” said SidFanarof, founder of Zpizza. “We used a thinner crust, infusedingredients authentic to dishes from India, Morocco, France, and, ofcourse, Italy. Like all of our pizzas, rustica dough and sauces areorganic; we offer gluten-free and vegan options and our pepperoniand sausage are additive and MSG-free.” A few examples of Zpizzarustica combinations are Chicken Curry and Yam, and Pear andGorgonzola.

This year marks Wienerschnitzel’s 50th anniversary. To celebratethe milestone, Wienerschnitzel is bringing the “Der” back: “Der funsince ’61”. Wienershnitzel, founded by John Galardi, started as asingle hot dog stand in Wilmington, California in 1961.

I N S I D E

4 www.great-taste.net | MARCH • APRIL 2011

T I D B I T S T I D B I T S


www.designsmorgasbord.com

The Amuse Bouche CulinaryChallenge, “Painting the RosesRed for the Queen of OurHearts,” raised over $39,000 forCasa Teresa. The event was heldat Hyatt Regency Irvine and

included seven chefs competing for threedifferent awards, silent auction,magicians, and live entertainment. ChefArturo Briones of Wildfish Seafood Grillewon People’s Choice and Judge’s Award.

Chef Robert Opelle of Sundried Tomatowon the Creativity and Appearance Award.Casa Teresa, located in Orange, is ashelter for pregnant women over the ageof 18.

Congratulations to The Cellar inFullerton for being honored with the AAAFour Diamond award for the 21stconsecutive year. “I am humbled by theaward this year,” said Ryan Dudley, ownerof The Cellar. “The past couple of yearshave been challenging and I am so proud of our staff for their tireless effortsand sacrifices. I also would like toacknowledge our loyal guests who havebeen so supportive and vocal. This award isonly possible because of them.” OtherOrange County restaurants that wererecognized with this prestigious award areNapa Rose in Anaheim, The Californian inHuntington Beach, Studio in LagunaBeach, Palm Terrace Restaurant inNewport Beach, The First Cabin in NewportBeach, and The Ritz Restaurant & Gardenin Newport Beach.

The Restaurant Management FacilityAssociation selected Someone Cares SoupKitchen in Costa Mesa for a $100,000makeover. RFMA members donated thesupplies, equipment and labor to remodelthe kitchen and make major improvementsto the facility of Someone Cares SoupKitchen.

I N S I D E

B O O K S BOOKS

Attention all whisky lovers! Dominic Roskrow has created the ideal whisky potpourri, consisting of 750whiskies from distilleries around the world. Not a big whisky fan? Perhaps you would be if you knew whichone suited your taste buds best. Roskrow, a whisky magazine editor and whisky lover himself, has puttogether The World’s Best Whiskies. Organized by type and region, this book features interviews with allof the distillers whose whiskies are highlighted, making it easy to jump on the whisky wave. In keepingwith our herb theme, many of the whisky profiles showcased in the book display an exciting array of herb

flavors. After picking up Roskrow’s book, we challenge you not to pretend you’re in a 1950’s television sitcomdrinking your whisky after a long day at work. Cheers to finding your flavor! To purchase this book and many others,visit www.great-taste.net.


SINCE 2000

PUBLISHER/CHIEF EDITOR/PROPRIETORTeri Williams

EDITORIALChief EditorTeri Williams

Contributing EditorKelly O’Quinn

Senior Editorial AssistantLori Olsen

ContributorsChef Katie Averill

Chef Gabriel Caliendo

Chef Debbi Dubbs

Robert Johnson

Chris Kern

Chef Adam Navidi

Chef Jason Stein

Jillian Stokes

ARTArt Direction/Design

Lisa Brink

[email protected]

PHOTOPhotography Editor

Michael Rutt

[email protected]

ADVERTISINGAdvertising Sales714-960-0534

21851 Newland St #217Huntington Beach, CA 92646

714-960-0534 fax [email protected]

K U D O S KUDOS

Wildfish Seafood Grill


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http://www.great-taste.net/shopping-food/

I N S I D E


by Chef Gabriel Caliendo

The Spice Rack

I’M CERTAINLY NOT THE FIRST PERSON TO

USE HERBS IN COCKTAIL CREATIONS, and it

is currently a growing trend. When done right

and in the correct application, herbs can

transcend the kitchen and be useful in the bar.

However, when speaking of herbs in cocktails,

I’m purposely excluding mint. The drink of the

decade has got to be the mojito, and even before

the mojito, the mint julep had its place in the

world of cocktails. So, because these sweet

herbal drinks are so played out, I’d like to talk

about “savory” herbal cocktails.

Since I’m working on the spring bar and food

menus at the Lazy Dog Café, this topic is fresh

on my mind. My first herbal infused creation

was a play on our Sangria program. I added a

White Peach Sangria and Red Pomegranate

Sangria to the menu several years ago. I thought

with the success we had there we could add to

the line, so I’ve been working on a Blackcurrant

Rose Sangria with a special ingredient: Fresh

Lemon Verbena. Lemon Verbena is a really nice

herb that has a sweet lemon aroma, savory

undertones and very tender edible leaves. The

Blackcurrant Lemon Verbena Rose Sangria is

not as sweet as our white and not as dry as our

red: perfect and just in time for summer on the

patio. The second item I have been working on

is a twist on the standard Vodka Tonic: a Lemon-

Thyme & Cucumber Vodka Tonic. Using fresh

lemons, thyme, and cucumber that are muddled

into Organic Cucumber Vodka, I’ve been able to

create a really refreshing summertime version of

the classic.

I hope that you get a chance to try these two

herbal sensations one day at the Lazy Dog.

Some make it on the menu and some get

shelved to hopefully see the light on another

day. Chef Gabriel Caliendo is the Vice President

of Food & Beverage and Principal of Lazy Dog

Café.

SENSATIONAL HERBS

EVEN IF YOU DON’T HAVE ROOM FOR A

GARDEN, HERBS CAN BE GROWN IN containers

on a sunny balcony, or tucked in among your

flowerbeds. If you plant them in your flowerbeds,

be careful that the herbs won’t receive any

pesticide overspray, otherwise they’ll be

unusable. Beyond their advantages in cooking,

you can make your own herbal vinegars, tea bags,

or create your own herb blends. Herbs can also be

easily dried and stored for later use; most are

easy to grow if you provide them with a few

basics. Window boxes or containers are great for

annual herb blends for those who have no garden

space, but some perennial herbs need room to

spread and should be planted in the ground.

Botanically speaking, herbs are non-woody

plants, though many, such as thyme, rosemary,

and lemon verbena, will eventually grow woody

stems. Herbs are used for their leaves, flowers and

sometimes stems. Some good culinary herbs to

grow are what I like to call “The Chef’s Collective”:

thyme, parsley, chives, basil, oregano and

rosemary. Consider growing herbs that you’ve

never tried before, such as anise flavored tarragon

or lemon verbena for its wonderful lemon scent

and beautiful lacy white flowers. Borage produces

beautiful dark blue flowers that taste faintly of

cucumber, but the plant can be very invasive, so

consider planting it in a container.

Provide herbs with these basic growing

conditions, whether in a container or in the

ground. Herbs require 6-8 hours of sunlight a day

and an adequate water supply. They like neutral

soil, 6.5 - 7 on the ph scale, and many, like

rosemary, lavender, and sage, are drought tolerant.

Unless you have an herb like mint, angelica, or

lovage, which require moist soil, you should plant

all herbs in soil which drains well. Lightly fertilize

herbs once a month with an organic fertilizer, but

use half the recommended dosage. During the

winter season, every other month should be fine as

some of the herbs will go dormant but will return

in the spring. Be careful not to over-fertilize, as

the essential oils in the herbs will be diluted.

Pruning, or deadheading*, is essential to keep

many herbs from becoming too woody. Herbs are

naturally healthy unless you over-fertilize, which

can cause overgrowth and dilution. Let them flower

to attract birds, bees, butterflies and other

beneficial insects; they’ll all keep the pests in

check quite nicely. Herbs are considered annual, bi-

annual and perennial; check which you have and

plant accordingly. Parsley, fennel, dill and some

others are considered bi-annual and will produce

beautiful umbrella type flowers before they set

seed. If you let the seed blow around with the wind

you will have ‘volunteer’ plants come up in the

garden the next season which you can leave where

they are or dig up and move to a specific location.

I like to leave them if I can so that they attract those

beneficial insects to other locations in the garden.

*Deadheading: the removal of dead leaves and

flowers on a regular basis.

Easy Herb Growing Guidelinesby Chef Debbi Dubbs


TAKE IT OR LEAVE IT

by Chef Adam Navidi

I COULD WRITE SOME NAMBY PAMBY ARTICLE

ON SOME CULINARY YOGA I just created but

never tried, or how best to incorporate greens into

our rich, bacon-drenched dishes for those

customers looking for a healthy option with all the

flavor, but that’s better suited for some other

trendy magazine. I mean, let’s face it, cooks and

chefs have never been too concerned about

health; we are a breed unto ourselves who would

rather take a smoke break than a shot of wheat

grass! The only thing that’s nature to us is working,

eating, drinking, and taking long stumbling walks

from some dingy bar to the closest couch at the end

of the night! We don’t mind working the long,

grueling hours in a fast paced, cramped

environment fueled with all the toxins of smoke, oil,

gas, bad lighting and excess heat. It’s like everyday

pulling up to work in a new car, clean and running

smooth, then we “clock in” and stall in the middle

of a florescent lit tunnel full of smoke and fumes

behind some sauce-stained semi-truck of a kitchen

line. By the time we reach the end of our road/shift,

the new car is a greased up spider monkey in a

space suit looking for some watering hole to quench

his thirst. One beer or glass of wine is never enough,

and a twelve pack or two bottles is never too much!

I used to spend my time off comparing burn

marks on my arms with my buddy, who works as a

welder, until I realized he was making a lot more

money than me and working a lot fewer hours!

Honestly, we do this because we love it, and make

no mistake, it beats digging a ditch through three

layers of clay in the heat of summer or watching a

bunch of brats pick their noses driving a school bus!

We have our own meaning of HEALTH!

H- HUNGER: It’s our first reason in survival and it

beats the scraps at the shelter. I remember

working for a catering company that had mucho

business (long time ago) and we would go find

homeless folks on the street to help prep food

through the middle of the night!

E- ENTERTAINMENT: With all the opposite sex,

there’s never a boring moment.

A- ALCOHOL: You can always find a comrade to

wet your whistle with at shift’s end.

L- LOVE: You love yourself too much to go to

school for some boring job.

T- TIME: There’s always time to eat, time to play,

and little time to sleep.

T- TASTE: You have to taste, it’s part of the job,

right? I once had gout from having to taste every

rich sauce on the line every couple hours. I think

the doctor was jealous.

H- HUMOR: With all the drama, there’s always

something funny going on; talk about some freaky

people.

I’ve always thought that someday there will be

this huge awakening in the industry, with

seasoned trained kitchen staff getting paid more

than waitstaff, lawyers, and doctors due to the

dangerous lifestyle we have to incur! It’s not

healthy being a cook, but it sure is fun! Ain’t it?!

Chef Adam Navidi is the owner of Adam Navidi

Catering Company.

P R O D U C E

PICKOF THE MONTH

THE YOUNGER SISTER OF THE FAMILIAR

DRY, MATURE GARLIC BULB, green garlic is

simply the typical garlic plant pulled from the

ground before a bulb forms. The appearance

of green garlic is similar to a large onion with

leek-like tops, but its taste is undeniably

associated with mature garlic. With a more

mild flavor and rich, earthy aroma, green

garlic is perfect in pureed soups with potatoes

and cream or as a sauce or sauce element to

accompany grilled veal, chicken, or pigeon.

When stewed, green garlic makes a wonderful

addition to soufflés or as a substitute for

onions or leeks. Available from November

through June, the season for green garlic

matches with those cold-weather months

when hearty soups are a menu staple. The

Produce Hunter has developed close

relationships with small, local family farmers

committed to sustainable agriculture,

responsible production, and propagation and

promotion of fruit and vegetables with

exceptional flavor.

Green Garlic


I N S I D E

Cheese Pick of the Month

FOR OVER 50 YEARS, WINCHESTER CHEESE COMPANY

HAS BEEN PRODUCING FINE GOUDA using the Dutch

Boere Kaas (meaning “home made on the farm”) method that

has been passed down through the generations to owner and

operator Jules Wesselink. Winchester Cheese Company is a

local dairy that uses only natural ingredients and fresh, raw

milk from their own 500 Holstein cows to make their

specialized goudas. After being placed in a brine tank to form

a washed rind, each batch is aged for a minimum of 60 days. The award-winning Winchester Mild Gouda

has a mild, nutty flavor wonderful for pairing with a mild wine or wheat beer and its semisoft texture makes

it perfect as a fondue or spread. For more information on Winchester Mild Gouda or Winchester Cheese

Company, please contact your FreshPoint representative.

Winchester Mild Gouda



I N S I D E

by Chef Katie Averill

CANNING JAM IS COOL, AND WITH THE COMING

OF SPRING (AND THEN SUMMER!) COMES A

WIDE VARIETY OF AMAZING FRUIT. Canned jam

lasts a year unopened, which means you can enjoy

the fruits of your labor all year long. The fear of the

actual canning process kept me from saving my

homemade jams for years, but once I took the time

to learn how to can properly and safely, I found it

was not that difficult. I will explain the simplest

way to can for those of you who are willing to try.

All you need to buy is glass canning jars; the rest

of the equipment you can find in your kitchen.

Thoroughly wash all the jar parts, place them in a

large stock pot, cover them with water and simmer

(180 degrees). Turn the stove off but leave the jars

in the pot until your hot jam is ready. Pull the jars

out one at a time and fill them up, leaving ¼” at

the top. The reason for leaving them in the hot

water is so you don’t shock the glass jars with the

boiling jam, causing them to crack. Clean the rims

of the jars with a clean cloth if any jam spills. Put

the lids and bands on the jars and close them just

hand-tight.

Place the jars back in the pot of hot water and

add more water until the jars are covered by 2”.

Bring the water to a boil and boil them for 10

minutes. Pull the jars out and keep them on the

counter for 24 hours (without tightening the lids

further). Push the center of the lids down to make

sure there is no up and down movement; there

should be complete suction. You may double check

by taking off the outer band and pulling on the lid.

If the lid resists, then the can is properly

suctioned. At this point, you can completely seal

the jars tightly. Label and date your jam and keep

it on the shelf.

SAFETY NOTES: If any discoloration is noted when

you open a jar, throw it out immediately. If you did

not achieve complete suction in any of your jars,

you can still refrigerate them and enjoy the jam for

up to a month.

Comments welcome at [email protected].

T H E BAK ING

RACKCanning Jam


www.cheftec.com


I N S I D E

FEW THINGS EXCITE SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA

SEAFOOD LOVERS LIKE SPOT PRAWNS. With

their pale orange shells and snow white flesh,

there is nothing better than the “sweet as

lobster” taste of these versatile prawns. They can

be eaten raw in sushi and sashimi applications or

simply sautéed or grilled. Their heads have a

sweet taste for those daring to indulge on them

tempura style or simmered in a miso broth. Spot

prawns are caught from February to November,

but the majority of the harvest is caught in the

summer months, from June to July. Although

they are typically caught locally off the Channel

Islands, prawns are fished from the Bering Sea

all the way to San Diego. They are available at

most larger Asian specialty seafood markets,

select Bristol Farms Markets and at Pearson’s

Port in Newport Beach. Spot prawns are very

expensive, ranging in price from 20 to 27 dollars

per pound. It is important when purchased that

they are vibrant and lively, as spot prawns that

are lethargic or dead rapidly lose their sweet

flavor and texture. This is due to an enzyme in

the head that spreads through the body and

starts to turn the flesh to mush. Everything is

edible on the whole head from the eyes to the

shell, but it is important to remove the outer

head shell, exposing the gills and head meat.

They are best eaten as sushi, with a small

amount of wasabi, ponzu and sea salt on sushi

rice. The prawn tail has an incredible sweetness

and unique firm and fleshy chew to it, while the

head is best suited tempura battered and fried.

Chef Jason Stein is a prominent Southern

California Executive Chef.

FISH Marketby Chef Jason Stein

Your holidays will be a cut above withWhite Apron professional quality meats!

(714) 255-8560Heritage of Quality • Performance MeatsCulinary Expertise • Best of Class Service

Caribbean Spice Rubbed, Bone-InFilet Mignon — Chef Yves Fournier

Santa BarbaraSpot Prawns


www.englishtoffee.net

www.whiteapronmeats.com


T R ENDS

Now that the holidays havepassed and the new year isupon us, it’s a great time tobounce back into a healthierlifestyle. You don’t have tosacrifice eating out just to stay

healthy. More restaurants than ever areoffering vegetarian, low fat, or low carboptions, making it easy to go out and makehealthful eating choices. Chef CarlitoJocson of Yard House was kind enough toanswer a few questions about how YardHouse offers healthier choices on theirmenu.

Great Taste: Why did Yard House decide tooffer healthier food choices? Carlito Jocson: We feel that our guests’eating habits are changing. Although goingout to eat is a treat, we have guests thateat out often and look for an alternativeone to two times or more a week.

GT: What is the most popular substitution?CJ: Currently, the Gardein products forbeef or chicken.

GT: What is the most popular health-conscious dish? CJ: Greek Salad, Spicy Tuna Roll, Ahi PokeBowl appetizer, Angel hair Pasta.

GT: How difficult was it to switch themenu?CJ: In regards to the Gardein, it is prettysimple. We simply substitute Chicken

Gardein for chicken, or Beef Gardein forground beef and prepare it to the originalrecipe.

GT: What benefits have you seen?CJ: Guests looking for vegetarian optionsare excited to have a large offering, sothat’s certainly a benefit. Also, an increasein sales as more people prefer healthier

menu items.

GT: How often do people tend tosubstitute?CJ: All the time, guests who have certaindiets or restrictions will always ask.

GT: Is it mostly because of allergies or is ita health conscious decision? CJ: Both.

GT: Is it possible to modify any menu itemto be healthier? CJ: Yes. We have guests that request nobutter, no cream, no bread, or no added salt.

GT: Do you provide nutritional informationthat guests can look at? CJ: Upon request, we can print anutritional breakdown of the menu itemfrom our POS system. The nutritional info

is also available on our website.

GT: Are there any drinks (alcoholic/non-alcoholic) that are slim options? Ex: Skinny Margarita?CJ: Any of our alcoholic drinks can be madeskinny with fresh lime juice, diet soda, orFresca, and we also have a selection of light beers.

“Guests looking forvegetarian options are excited to have alarge offering, so that’scertainly a benefit.Also, an increase insales as more people prefer healthiermenu items.” — Carlito Jocson

YardHouseGoesGardein©

by Jillian Stoker


T R ENDS


Spring into TasteSpring into TasteSpringSpringSpringSpringSpringSpring

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA

HELPING OUR CUSTOMERS SUCCEEDFood Safety

Variety

Quality

Cost Control

The Fresh Produce Specialists

Call Toll-Free: 1-800-252-9165

www.FreshPoint.com

www.TheProduceHunter.com

155 North Orange Avenue, City of Industry, CA 91744


www.freshpoint.com

www.danielsmeat.com

SUR L E MENU

Herbs

2nd Floor - Huntington BeachBowie’s Pasta Fresca, roma and cherrytomatoes, roasted peppers, fresh basil,garlic, shallots, feta cheese, pine nuts, redonions, and penne pasta topped withparmesan cheese.

Chateaux Lounge - IrvineCajun Ahi Tuna Salad, Napa cabbage,carrots, mushroom, mint, basil, andsesame dressing.

Utopia Restaurant - Long BeachCajun Scallops, sautéed scallops,mushrooms, green onions and garlic, in a Cajun rosemary cream sauce, served with mashed potatoes.

Andreis Restaurant - IrvineCharcuterie Plate, La Quercia prosciutto,Knight sopressata, green olive duckterrine, ham and parsley terrine, pickledvegetables, cornichons, whole grainmustard, mini-baguette.

Prime Cut Cafe - OrangeClassic Shrimp Cocktail, six large wildshrimp, fresh dill, lemon zest, and tomato-horseradish sauce.

The Ramos House Cafe - San JuanCapistranoCrawfish Salad Sandwich, with smokedbacon and basil.

Rothschild’s Restaurant - Corona del MarFilet Mignon au Poivre, center cut filetencrusted with mixed peppercorn, servedin brandy cream sauce with shallots andthyme.

Ponte Winery - TemeculaGrilled Loch Duart Salmon, grilled salmon,potato gnocchi, fresh peas, and mint pesto.

Infusion - Ladera RanchHerb Crusted Rack of Lamb, goat cheesemashed potatoes, grilled asparagus, andminted pan jus.

Avanti Cafe - Costa MesaKick A$% Bloody Mary (on the rocks),organic tomatoes, horseradish, serranochili, onion, garlic, lemon oregano andcumin.

Sage Restaurant - Newport BeachKiller Fish Tacos, fennel and radish saladwith arugula, red onion, cilantro, Italian

parsley, crispy fried potato sticks, blackbeans, and corn relish.

Anaheim White House Restaurant -AnaheimLumache di Bourgogne, “Our FrenchTouch” Bourgogne escargot baked withgarlic & herbs in a Pernod flambé.

Ky’a Bistro - Laguna Beach Mojitos, Bacardi Silver, fresh mint andlime, muddled and chilled to refreshingperfection.

Memphis Cafe - Costa MesaPan Roasted French Cut Chicken Breast,haricot vert, mashed potato pancakes,bbq’d corn, lemon thyme sauce.

Chaparosa Grill - Various LocationsSpinach & Cranberry Salad, baby spinach tossed in citrus mint dressing and topped with dried cranberries,crumbled feta cheese and toastedalmonds.

Royal Thai Cuisine - Various LocationsSummer Roll Appetizer, soft fresh rollstuffed with tofu, fresh greens and Thaibasil.

Whether in your garden at home, atop abeautifully presented dish, or ground up ina beverage, herbs are easily a part of oureveryday lives. Put simply, an herb is afragrant leaf that can be home-grown in atemperate climate zone or bought fresh,

dried, or frozen from your local grocery store. Mint, basil, andoregano may be some of the most popular, but all herbscontribute greatly to any dish. Chef Miriam from QuattroCaffé artfully presents basil in her very own Fettuccine allaPescatora. Our palates recognize and appreciate each herb ifwe pay attention enough to pick them out. So, don’t beafraid to add some herbs and spice things up Sur Le Menu!



SUR L E MENU


Fettuccine al la Pescatora

COVER RECIPE

7 oz Fettuccine4 Alaskan Sea Scallops U102 oz Olive Oil3 Mexican white shrimp 16/201 t Garlic - minced1/2 t Thyme - chopped1/2 t Oregano - chopped1/2 t Rosemary - chopped2 oz White wine3 oz Clam Juice3 oz Tomato - chopped1 oz Basil - chiffonade1 oz Butter

Salt and pepper

Bring a large pot of salted water to boil.

Once the water is to a rolling boil add pasta

and cook for 6-7 minutes. The pasta should

be al dente.

Dust each side of the scallops with salt and

pepper. Heat a sauté pan, when hot add

olive oil then place scallops in pan, cook for

approximately 2 minutes on each side. Add

shrimp, garlic, thyme, oregano, rosemary,

salt and pepper, white wine and clam juice.

Let simmer for 5 minutes. Add tomatoes,

basil and butter and stir.

Serve over the Fettuccine and garnish with

basil.

SERVES 1


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F EATUR E : L ’ E N T R E E´F EATUR E : L ’ E N T R E E´



F EATUR E : L ’ E N T R E E´

As of January 1, 2011,California Legislation passeda law that bans all trans-fats from the menu at all California restaurants.California, which becamethe first state to partiallyban trans-fats in 2008, is a leader in the healthrevolution. Nearly everywhere

you go to eat, you’ll see calorie counts,vegetarian, and gluten-free options on menus,even at those thought of as non-healthyrestaurants. Not only has the health craze hitalready existing chains, new restaurants arepopping up whose sole focus is on healthy,organic, sustainable, and delicious dishes.Establishments such as Seasons 52, TrueFood Kitchen, and 118 Degrees are findinghuge success in the relatively small gourmethealth food niche.

Along with the general switch of focus tohealthful and organic foods, there has been ahuge expansion of gluten-free items. In thepast, gluten-free foods have been extremelydifficult to find and largely ignored by anyonewithout a gluten aversion. Gluten, which is aprotein composite used in the processing ofwheat, barley, and rye, is present in multiplefood staples, such as pasta, grain, cereal,many processed foods, and sometimes oats.The proliferance of gluten in modern foodmakes it extremely difficult for people withCeliac disease, an autoimmune disorder of thesmall intestine which prevents the body fromprocessing gluten, and others with gluten-aversions to find acceptable foods, especiallywhen eating out. People with gluten-aversionor Celiac disease have to choose very carefullywhere they eat and often decide to simply eatin or at a friend’s house instead.

Jim Collins, a Southern California residentliving with Celiac disease and type 1 diabetes,often decides to eat at home instead of goingout because it is easier and quicker to findgluten-free options. “The only way to find outif a restaurant has gluten-free items is to goout and ask, check their websites, or call the

corporate offices,” said Jim, who finds it verychallenging to find restaurants where hedoesn’t have to worry about whether or nottheir dishes include gluten. When Jim doesdecide to go out to a restaurant, he has to gothrough the trouble of first finding out if theestablishment offers gluten-free items, andthen brings his own back-up meal just in case.As you can imagine, this adds an unnecessarylevel of stress to what should be a fun,relaxing outing. Isn’t the point of eating out toenjoy great food with good company and letthe restaurant take care of everything?

With one out of every ten people in theUnited States suffering from some degree ofgluten-aversion and many more people cuttinggluten out of their diet in an effort to loseweight and improve their health, it’s vital thatrestaurants consider offering gluten-freedishes. And not only from the consumerstandpoint. “If somebody is gluten-intolerant,they get to decide where they go eat, so thatbrings in the family and friends, expandingthe amount of people who try yourrestaurant,” testifies Chef Michael Stebner,Executive Chef of True Food Kitchen.

True Food Kitchen, which has locations inSouthern California and Arizona, features amenu based on Dr. Weil’s Anti-InflammatoryFood Pyramid. The main proponents of Dr.Weil’s food pyramid are fruits, veggies,legumes, healthy fats, and seafood, causingmany of their dishes to be healthy by default.“For a long time, Dr. Weil has said that goodtasting food can be healthy. This is kind of hisincarnation of that philosophy that you can getgreat tasting food that can be good for you,”says Chef Stebner. True Food Kitchen’s menuwas originally just focused on good food withhealthy ingredients, but soon Chef Stebnerrealized that their most popular dishes wereeither vegetarian or gluten-free. “It’s driven bythe consumer; the consumer wants gluten-free, more veggies, etc., and we’re just givingthem what they’re asking for. As the menuevolves, we incorporate requests more and givemore interesting options,” Chef Stebner saysof the evolution of True Food Kitchen’s menu.

Having a menu that changes with theseasons presents some unique planningobstacles. His goal is to use locally producedingredients as much as possible, not only tosupport local growers, but because it ischeaper and easier to buy ingredients that arein season for the area you’re cooking in. “Goto the market. If there are fava beans, they goon the menu. Don’t put it on the menu unlessit’s available. In season costs less and tastesbetter. This gives our guests fresh food atmore reasonable prices,” he explains. While itis more difficult to plan a menu based on thechanging growing seasons, Chef Stebner seesit as an advantage. It allows him to present hiscustomers with the freshest ingredients atlower prices, giving them a great diningexperience.

And the customers are happy about it,too! The best compliment to Chef Stebner iswhen people walk out the door saying theyfeel better than when they walked in. It’s sorare that you leave a restaurant after a largemeal feeling good about yourself, and ChefStebner has managed to provide hiscustomers that experience. Since customersdon’t feel guilty after eating at True FoodKitchen, they’ll opt more frequently for adessert or drinks. “We sell a ton of dessertsbecause people feel good enough to eatone,” says Stebner.

With happy customers and a happy chef,True Food Kitchen has become the mostsuccessful of the Fox Restaurant concepts.True Food’s locations continually bring in amultitude of customers without impedingupon the customer base of their neighboringrestaurants. Because of their unique menuand environment, True Food maintains acustomer base separate from that of otherrestaurants. “It’s a different mindset of peoplewho eat at True Food than at a steakhouse orother restaurant. No competition means hugesuccess,” explains Chef Stebner. With plansto expand to major markets across the U.S., itseems that True Food Kitchen has hit thesweet spot of delicious and healthy that wehave been waiting for.

by Kelly O’Quinn

Illustration by Lisa Brink




F EATUR E : C H E F D E C U I S I N E

CH E F P R O FI

LEGOLDBERG& SOLOVY

SP

O

N S O R E DB

Y

**

Intuition is a remarkable thing. It can protect someone from harm, help find the keys to the car, orsimply be a gift that is shared with others. Chef Miriam Ramirez of Quattro Caffé at South CoastPlaza is considered by her peers to be a very intuitive and professional person. She learned how tocook at an early age from her mother in her home land of Mexico. The more time she spent in thekitchen, the more enamored she became, cooking and seeing satisfaction on the faces of those she

served. Her innate connection with food and her love of people made the restaurant business an idealplace for Chef Ramirez to be. With her mind made up to work in a restaurant, she set out for betteropportunities in the United States. Her intuition helped guide her to Armani Café, which was later tobecome Quattro Caffé.

Chef Miriam began her career as a waitress and slowly worked her way into the kitchen to begin theubiquitous task of prepping food. Her attention to detail, consistency, and the great care she took in

Chef Miriam Ramirez

by Robert Johnson

Continued on page 18

Photo credit: Bleu Cotton Photography, Inc.




3333 BRISTOL ST. #1201COSTA MESA, CA 92626WWW.QUATTROCAFFE.COM

RESTAURANT HOURS:11:00 AM – 9:00 PM

AVERAGE COVER FOR ONE GUEST,INCLUDING BEVERAGE? Lunch: $26.50 Dinner: $33.50

AVERAGE NUMBER OF HOURS YOUWORK IN A WEEK: 65

IF NOT A CHEF, WHAT WOULD YOU BE?My schooling prepared me for a position in

the business world, so I would most likely

be an executive secretary.

FAVORITE KITCHEN GADGET OR TOOL:Tongs.

FAVORITE KITCHEN APPLIANCE: Mixer –Hobart.

FAVORITE TYPE OF COOKWARE: All-Clad.

FAVORITE CONDIMENT/SPICE: Garlic.

BIGGEST MYTH ABOUT WORKING IN THEKITCHEN: That it is an easy job…mostpeople don’t realize the 3 or 4 hours of

prep time required before the restaurant

even opens and it’s a challenge to keep the

menu current and fresh.

SIGNATURE OR FAVORITE DISH TOMAKE: Linguine Vongole.

FAVORITE RAW INGREDIENT: Prosciutto

CULINARY HERO: Mario Batali

YEARS IN BUSINESS: BOH: 15

WHAT 3 WORDS BEST DESCRIBE YOURCULINARY STYLE: Fresh, Highest Quality,Consistent

Quattro Caffé

Chef Miriam Ramirez

preparing food led her quickly to becoming acook. As luck, or her good intuition, wouldhave it, she happened to have begun herbudding career as a cook when someauthentic Italian chefs were brought intoArmani to help get the restaurant going.These chefs showed all of the cooks how toprepare the dishes to recipe and how to makethem delicious and consistent. Chef Miriamtook full advantage of the few weeks the

Italian chefs spent at the restaurant; for her itwas like going to culinary school. She alreadyhad the knack for cooking, she just needed tobe shown proper techniques. The guest chefsnot only started the restaurant, but they alsokick-started Chef Miriam’s career.

Chef Ramirez immediately recognizedthat Italian cooking was not that muchdifferent than her native Mexican style ofcooking. Each style utilizes similaringredients: tomatoes, garlic (Miriam’sfavorite ingredient), peppers, onions, andfresh herbs, a fact which worked very much toher advantage. She began to incorporate manyideas from her Mexican heritage into her

Italian cooking to prepare dishes as fresh anddelicate as possible. She wants her patrons torecognize the quality and flavor of the food,and to feel content when they leave. ChefMiriam believes that without fresh, delicatedishes, she would not be able to achieve thisgoal.

Her intuition inside the kitchen is asremarkable as her ability to be in the rightplace at the right time. When given a recipe,

Chef Ramirez immediately recognizes theingredients in the dish and knows instantlyhow to better prepare it in order for the dish tobe more light and flavorful. During her tenyears at Quattro Caffé, Chef Miriam has builta crew of cooks in her kitchen who share herideals as a chef. Her kitchen staff, some 15 orso workers, is comprised mostly of women, butnot because she has anything against men.Chef Miriam thinks men are great line cooksbecause they can grind out running the line ona day-to-day basis, but she prefers women inthe kitchen because they have a more delicatehand when it comes to seasoning and a bettereye for plating. As a male and self-proclaimed

MAKE CONTACT

“My first food-related memory was watching mymother prepare wonderful dishes for the family.Since I enjoy working with people and I love food,the restaurant industry was a natural choice.” —Miriam Ramirez


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foodie, I began to protest. Just as I began myobjection, several plates of food were placedbefore me; one elegantly plated dish afteranother. I sampled each, and then I sampledthem again. Somehow I forgot what it was Ihad disagreed with; men, apparently, areeasily distracted with food.

The next time you find yourself at South

Coast Plaza and a pang of hunger sets in, letyour nose and intuition guide you to theQuattro Caffé. The restaurant is busiestduring the day and especially during theweekend, so be sure to plan accordingly. Theintuitive mastermind, Chef Miriam, will surelybe there creating subtle, fresh dishes with agreat deal of feminine flair.

Serves 1

COURT BOUILLON8 C Water2 T Kosher salt1 C White wine - dry1 T Peppercorn - whole1 C Lemon Juice1/2 Lemon5 Bay leaves1 Onion - small white1 t Oregano - dry

In a large pot, add water then other

ingredients and bring to a boil.

LEMON DRESSING3 T Lemon juice - freshly squeezed5 T Olive oil - extra virginPinch Salt and Pepper

In a small mixing bowl, whisk the lemon juice,

salt and pepper. Slowly drizzle in the olive oil

while whisking until it is completely

incorporated. Set aside.

FRUTTI DI MARE5 oz Calamari 5 oz Shrimp - white Mexican 51/605 oz Scallops - baby2 T Roma Tomato - diced2 T Carrots - Julienne1 T Parsley - chopped2 T Lemon dressing1 oz Organic baby mixed greens

Place the calamari inside a wire basket and

lower into the court bouillon for 5 minutes.

Remove the basket of calamari and submerge

in an ice water bath for a few minutes. Drain

and set aside. Repeat for the shrimp for 3

minutes of cooking time and set aside. Repeat

the process for the scallops with 3 minutes of

cooking time as well. Set aside.

In a large mixing bowl, add the chilled

seafood, carrots, parsley and tomatoes. Mix

gently together and add lemon dressing to

taste. Plate the organic baby mixed greens

and place your frutti di mare mixture on top.

Pepper to taste.

Frutti di Mare What three words best describe your culinary style?FRESH, HIGHEST QUALITY, CONSISTENT



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T H E B I Z : F R O N T O F T H E H O U S E

Drinks should be inventive andfun, but most of all they shouldbe tasty! Here are some drinksthat feature a new star of theshow, HERBS!

BASILSWEET, HERBAL BOUQUETMcKenna’s on the Bay, Long BeachSWEET SPICEVeev Açai Liqueur, jalapeño, basil, lemonjuice and soda.

CILANTROCITRUSY, BITING TANG, ZESTYEl Torito, Various LocationsPINEAPPLE-CILANTRO CADILLAC MARGARITA1800 Reposado Tequila, agave nectar,cilantro, pineapple, and a side shot ofGrand Marnier.

MINTCHILLING, CRISP, CLEAN, COOLBabouch Moroccan Restaurant, San PedroFROZEN MINT MARGARITAPatron Silver Tequila, Grand Marnier,crême de menthe, sweet and sour, freshmint and lime.

ROSEMARYPINEY FLAVOR, TEA-LIKE AROMALa Grande Orange Café, PasadenaSHAKIN’ LEMONADEGrey Goose, lemonade and fresh rosemary.

GINGERSLIGHTLY BITING, HOT NOTE, WOODYThe Observation Bar in the Queen Mary,Long BeachGINGERSNAPAbsolut Ginger Vodka, Canton GingerLiqueur, fresh squeezed lemon juice andginger ale. Garnished with a rosemarysprig.

SAGEFRAGRANT AROMA, ASTRINGENT BUT

WARM FLAVOR6ix Park Grill, IrvineGINGER PEACH CAIPIRINHALeblon, Canton Ginger Liqueur, PeachSchnapps, lemon, sugar and sage.

TARRAGONSLIGHTLY BITTERSWEET FLAVORFrench 75, Laguna BeachRIVIERAAbsolut infused with vanilla, grapefruit,tarragon, and a splash of grapefruit juice.

THYMESUBTLE, SLIGHTLY MINTYTantalum, Long BeachOCEANABeefeater London Gin, simple syrup,thyme and farm fresh raspberries.

ELDERFLOWERFLOWER AND FRUIT AROMA, SIMILAR TO LYCHEE AND PEARSParkers’ Lighthouse, Long BeachBUTTERFLY MARTINIGrey Goose le Citron, St. GermainElderflower Liqueur, white cranberry juice, sweet and sour, basil andmint.

Matador Cantina, FullertonELDERFLOWER PEAR RICKEY Absolut Pear, Elderflower Liqueur andfreshly squeezed lime juice.

HerbCocktailsby Jillian Stoker

Kids want to be in on the fun, too! Here aresome friendly “mocktails” that make kids feelextra special.

VIRGIN CHERRY FIZZYMix or blend together:- Cherry juice; either fresh or from concentrate- Ginger aleAdd ice and mix or blend to the consistencyyou desire. Top with a dash of whipped creamand a fresh cherry.

FUZZYLESS FUZZY NAVELCombine together or blend together:- Peach nectar or fresh peaches- Orange juice - Pineapple juice- A dash of lemon juice- A dash of grenadine for tasteTop with a dash of whipped cream and a freshwedge of peach.

SUMMERTIME VIRGIN SANGRIAMix together:- Red cranberry juice- Sugar or honey- Apple juiceAdd ice and mix together or blend to the consistencyyou prefer. Top with maraschino cherries.

MISTY ORANGE SLUSH (Serves 8)- Pour two cups of orange juice into ice cubetrays and allow to freeze.- Once frozen, take half the cubes and placethem in a blender with two cups of orangejuice and a bit of lime juice.- Pour the contents into a large pitcher andrepeat the steps above with the other half ofthe frozen orange juice cubes.- Add cold ginger ale to completed mixtureand stir well.- Add a slice of kiwi or a slice of orange as agarnish and serve.


T H E B I Z : B A C K O F T H E H O U S E


We do it all, not just the framing:[] Quick turnaround (delivery schedule five to seven days after ordering)

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MOUNTING & FRAMING FOR YOUR ARTICLE TO DISPLAY ON YOUR RESTAURANT FLOOR

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One of the biggest new trends,according to the NationalRestaurant Association®“What’s Hot in 2011” survey ofover 1,500 chefs, is restaurantmenus featuring locally grown

produce. Consumers are beginning to caremore and more about where their food iscoming from. Some restaurants are takingmatters into their own hands by growingtheir own herb and vegetable gardens on-site. An additional option for restaurantsthat don’t have the means to grow their owngardens but still want that just-picked,fresh taste is Harvest to Home.

Harvest to Home delivers organic

vegetable and herb gardens straight to you.The website’s tagline says it all: “No Labor,No Fertilizing, No Watering, NO GREENTHUMB NECESSARY!” Laguna native MikeSaraylian is the creator of these self-sustaining garden boxes, and couldn’t behappier to provide homegrown, organic herbsand vegetables to those who may not have thetime or resources to grow their own garden.

All a restaurant has to do is select whichherbs and vegetables they want in theirnew garden, and then it’s delivered directlyto them. Harvest to Home offers theirsignature garden box service as well astheir raised garden bed service. A signaturemaintenance service is also offered, and

it’s exactly what it sounds like. You don’thave to lift a finger. The service includesgarden cleaning, trimming and pruningleaves, harvesting your vegetables andherbs, and providing an organic spray forpests. There are several restaurants in thearea that are taking advantage of whatHarvest to Home has to offer, including:Cucina Alessa in Huntington Beach andLaguna Beach, The Cottage in LagunaBeach, Coyote Grill in South Laguna,Crispin’s Eatery in San Clemente, Good toGo Restaurant in Huntington Beach,Cannery Restaurant in Newport Beach, and118 Degrees in Costa Mesa.

Coyote Grill’s General Manager, Desiree

Gomez said they have been using Harvest toHome for about a year. When I asked what theyspecifically use their garden box for, Gomezsaid, “The parsley we use to garnish our OysterPlatters or chop to garnish pretty much everyplate that goes out. The mint we use for the bardrinks: Mojitos and Greyhounds with Mint.”

And you certainly don’t have to own arestaurant to take advantage of this uniqueservice. According to Saraylian, residentialcustomers are actually their mainbusiness, and they have customers thathave been loyal since day one. Businesshas been going well and Saraylian hopesthat they will continue to grow in 2011. Visit www.harvesttohome.com.

Harvestto Homeby Lori Olsen

“The parsley we use to garnish our Oyster Platters or chop it togarnish pretty much every plate that goes out. The mint we usefor the bar drinks: Mojitos and Greyhounds with Mint.”


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T H E B I Z : B E V E R A G E S

Ask any casual drinker to namethe key ingredient in mostspirits, and you’ll hearpotatoes, corn, wheat, barley,juniper berries, or maybeeven peat moss.

But those barely cover a quarter of theshelf. The real workhorses are herbs andspices, which, when distilled with neutralspirits, produce the countless, colorfulliquors and liqueurs that line the rail ofmost bars. Herb-based liquors can bedivided into two categories: anise(licorice)-flavored and non-anise-flavored,with more crossover than you’d think; 27(Benédictine), 56 (Jägermeister), or even130 (Chartreuse) different herbs can beused to produce one liqueur.

Curious? Grab those leftover bottlesfrom the liquor cabinet and let’s delve intothree very different herb-based spirits andthe classic cocktails they produce:

ABSINTHE/HERBSAINTThe Green Faerie: banned for yearsthroughout the west, but making acomeback among today’s adventurousimbibers. Absinthe is a high proof (up to74% ABV) spirit derived from wormwood(not rotting, invertebrate-infested bark,but rather a leafy green herb with allegedhallucinogenic properties) with a brightgreen color and the taste of anise.Traditional absinthe service calls fordistilled water poured over a sugar cube onthe back of a spoon into the absinthe,diluting the alcohol and muddying thecolor. Herbsaint, in contrast, contains nowormwood but was originally sold as“Legendre Absinthe” until the fedskiboshed absinthe post-Prohibition.Despite the name change, this Louisiana-based spirit remains a key component inAmerica’s oldest-known cocktail, theSazerac:

Chill an old-fashioned glass. Coat glasswith Herbsaint, then discard liquor.Muddle a sugar cube and six dashes ofPeychaud’s bitters in glass. Fill with 4 oz.rye whiskey. Twist a lemon peel over glassand rub rim with it.

BITTERSThe difference between spirits andliqueurs? Liqueurs have added sugar tosweeten them. Bitters? Definitely no sugaradded. These spirits get their eponymous

taste from the gentian herb and come intwo categories – digestive bitters(Campari, Pimms, Suze), often served neator with a mixer, and cocktail bitters(Angostura, Peychaud’s), which can top45% ABV and are dashed into drinks. Oneclassic bitters cocktail is the Manhattan,but for more bitters flavor, try our LowerManhattan variation:

Fill an old-fashioned glass with 2-3large ice cubes. Coat rocks completely withbitters. Add a splash of sweet vermouthand fill with 4 oz. rye or bourbon. Garnishwith lemon twist and cherry.

GALLIANORarely is a tall, thin blonde ignored at abar, but such is the case with Galliano,which hardly ever moves from its perch onthe shelf. Anise-based but with a top-noteof vanilla, Galliano was invented in Italy in1896 with a golden color (via tartrazinedye) inspired by the gold rushes of the1890s. Though delicious on the rocks, it’smore often used as a float, specifically ina Harvey Wallbanger:

In a Collins glass, combine 3 partsvodka with 6 parts orange juice over iceand stir. Float 1 oz. Galliano on top.Garnish with an orange slice and cherry.

In liquor, like in cooking, herbs makeeverything better. So don’t be afraid. Openup and pour those forgotten herb-basedspirits today!

Let’sSpirit for theHerbs!by Chris KernChris Kern is the founder of ForgottenGrapes.comand the creator and host of Sunday Night ChefFights (sundaynightcheffights.com)



T H E B I Z : B E V E R A G E S


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Great Taste Magazine 2011 Mar/Apr Issue