Flavour Magazine October 2010

www.flavourmagazine.com

NORTHCORNWALLEat your way around

our Atlantic Coast

Le Mondedu Chocolat

Delicious ideas for National

Chocolate Week

WIN!A very hot prize

from South Devon Chilli Farm!

for people who love local food

FRUITFULHARVEST

Vineyardsthroughout

Europe prepare for action

flavourBristol, Bath & South West | Issue 32 | October 2010 £3 (Where sold)

01 Cover and spine:Layout 1 6/10/10 15:40 Page 1

StartersBaked camembert with slow-roasted garlic, oils & baguette (great to share) (V) Bowl of soup of the day with freshly baked baguette Whisky drenched Cornish scallops with creamedspinach & pancetta Pheasant breast with braised baby beetroots & red wine reduction Butter poached tiger prawns on a fondue of leekswith Mrs Kirkham’s cheese

Our ClassicsWest-country beef burger with mozzarella, chips & tomato salsa Pork & Young’s ale bangers with mashed potato,Savoy cabbage & port gravy Beer-battered cod fillet with chips, mushy peas & tartar sauce Gloucester ham, free-range eggs, chips & salad Thai red curry of butternut squash, peppers & beanswith jasmine rice (V)

Main CoursesSalmon & haddock fishcake with chips, salad,poached egg & tartar sauceFree-range Somerset pork belly & tiger prawns with carrot puree, green beans, mashed potato andMadeira sauceLoin of wild Scottish highland venison with fondantpotato, curly kale and port & elderberry sauceButternut squash, wild mushroom & ale pie withmashed potato and Savoy cabbage (V)Gressingham duck cooked 2-ways (confit leg & panfried breast) with garden thyme mashed potato,braised red cabbage & red wine jus Classic beef Bourguignon with grain mustardmashed potato & braised red cabbage Cornish “stargazy” pie of prawns, scallops, smokedhaddock & cod with Norfolk royal potatoes &seasonal vegetables Breast of free-range chicken wrapped in pancettawith black pudding, pomme anna and creamedSavoy cabbage Slow-braised bath chaps with parsnip mash, fondantpotato & curly kale Wild game pie of venison, pheasant & wood pigeonwith chips and seasonal vegetables

Side OrdersChips New Potatoes Side Salad Seasonal Vegetables

Autumn Menu

White Hart

White Hart | Littleton-on-Severn | Bristol | BS35 1NR tel: 01454 412275 | www.whitehartbristol.com

Welcome to a picturesque 17th Centuryfarmhouse where the modern British cuisine ismatched only by the quality of service.

We like to do things we’re passionate about atThe White Hart, so whether it’s wine, real ales,meat, game or fish, you can be assured that thegreatest of care has been taken in selection andpreparation.

We think you’ll notice and appreciate theattention to detail, but why not come to find outfor yourself this autumn?

welcometo the

White Hart Ad:P.52 5/10/10 23:37 Page 1

Please recycle this product.

6 In seasonTom Bowles and Jason Maggsbring you the best of theseason’s produce

11 WIN! A very hot prize from SouthDevon Chilli Farm!

15 North Cornwall Eat your way around ourAtlantic Coast

40 Le Monde du Chocolat Delicious ideas for NationalChocolate Week

48 Fruitful HarvestEuropean vineyards prepare foraction

15

Competition Terms & ConditionsIn addition to any specifically stated terms andconditions, the following applies to all competitions.All information forms part of the rules. All entrantsare deemed to have accepted the rules and agree tobe bound by them. The winner will be the first entrydrawn at random from all the entries sent back afterthe closing date and will be notified by either post,email or telephone. The prizes are as stated; they are non-transferable and no cash alternative will beoffered. All entrants must be at least 18 years old.Competitions are open to UK residents only. Oneentry per person. Proof of postage is not proof ofentry. flavour accepts no responsibility for entrieslost or damaged in the post. Entrants agree to take part in any publicity material relating to thecompetition. The name of the winner will bepublished in the next edition. The judge’s decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into.Prizes do not include unspecified extras (such as travel). All prizes are subject to availability.Please state if you do not wish to receive any further correspondence from flavour or competitionorganisers. You may be required to collect your prize.

flavour magazine provides effective communicationthrough design. We specialise in brochures,corporate identity, advertising, direct mail,marketing and design for print. We have a reputation for clear, creative solutions tocommunication problems for a number of corporate,sports, financial, charity and leisure industry clients.We maintain the highest of standards, throughouteach individual project and our client relationship.We pride ourselves on delivering distinctive designsand ideas that will get you noticed.

For more information, please contact Peter Francomb Tel: 01179 779188 Email: [email protected]: www.flavourmagazine.com

66

contents

Editor:Holly Aurelius-HaddockEmail: [email protected]

Deputy Editor:Faye AllenEmail: [email protected]

Art Director:Chris JonesEmail: [email protected]

Advertising:Miranda Coller, Director of SalesEmail: [email protected]

Clare Wicks, Account ManagerEmail: [email protected]

Photography:Misha Gupta, Daniel Hewison, James Walker, Jeni Meade

Contributors:Stuart Ash, Martin Blunos, Siân Blunos, TomBowles, Helen Aurelius-Haddock, Sarah Hurn,Rebecca Gooch, Duncan Shine, Ron Faulkner, Clare Morris and Rebecca Sullivan.

Flavour Magazine151-153 Wick Road, Brislington, Bristol, BS4 4HHTel: 01179 779188 | Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com

Please send any comments or suggestions to the publisher at the above address.

For general enquiries:Peter FrancombEmail: [email protected]

For competition entries:Email: [email protected]

© Copyright 2010 flavourmagazine.com

All rights reserved. Material may not be reproducedwithout permission of flavour. While we take care toensure that reports, reviews and features are accurate,flavourmagazine.com accepts no liability for readerdissatisfaction arising from the content of thispublication. The opinions expressed or advice given arethe views of the individual authors, and do notnecessarily represent the views or policies offlavourmagazine.com

Welcome to theOctober issue offlavour!

There really is never a dull moment atflavour HQ; whether it’s heading to NorthCornwall to sample the culinary delightswhen the tourists go home (PAGE 15),going behind the scenes with Masterchef’sGregg Wallace (PAGE 66) or hunting downthe region’s best lunch-time offers (PAGE26), there are no limits to what we do inthe name of research!

I tell readers every year how much I loveautumn, and this year is no exception.With the onset of the game season andthe long-awaited anticipation of harvesttime, it is surely one of the most excitingtimes in the foodie calendar – turn to(PAGE 24) to find out about a very specialapple crop and to (PAGE 48) to read abouthow vineyards all over Europe arepreparing for the most important task ofthe year.

Oh, and you might want to take a sneakypeek (on PAGE 32) at the stunning newcollection of recipes from the greatElizabeth David too.

We hope you enjoy reading this issue asmuch as we’ve enjoyed making it.

Happy Eating!Holly Aurelius-Haddock

welcome

Contents:Layout 1 6/10/10 15:36 Page 3

BONANNIVERSAIRE!

Champagne Joseph Perrieris celebrating its 185thbirthday in style with thelaunch of two newChampagnes from thestunning 2002 vintage. Boththe pure Chardonnay Blanc deBlancs and Rosé are madeonly from grapes grown inGrand and Premier Cruvineyards, presented in specialedition bottles based on theoriginal bottle shape used in1825.

Discover for yourself why we ratethese Champagnes so highly by

joining Martin Gamman MW, UKrepresentative of Champagne JosephPerrier at the Great Western Wine shop totaste the birthday bottles, alongside thecomplete Joseph Perrier portfolio.

The event will take place at Great WesternWine shop in Bath on Saturday 16 October2010 between 12-4pm. No tickets required.

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> flavour news

this month

If you have any news or eventsthat you would like to share withus here at flavour then [email protected]

GAME ON!

From pheasant, mallard, teal, widgeon andsnipe to hare, rabbit and venison, the gameseason is upon us and Source Food Hall inSt. Nick’s Market are proud to stock thewhole range. The chefs will prepareeverything for you so it’s ready to pop intothe oven when you get back home. They’llalso offer tips and advice on what to eat itwith and how to enjoy it at its best.

The game season shows British cuisine atits best so don’t feel daunted to go it alone– seek advice from Source and make ameal to remember!

0117 927 2998www.source-food.co.uk

WINNERSCongratulations to Barry Cash from Bishopstonwho wins a Champagne meal for two atRonnie's Restaurant!

See the flavour website for an exciting competition!

www.flavourmagazine.com

CLAVELSHAY BARN

The picturesque Clavelshay Barn locatedon the edge of the Quantock Hills offers theperfect retreat for a beautiful countrydinner. Find out for yourself everyWednesday and Thursdayevening throughout Octoberand November as they’reoffering 2 courses for £15and 3 courses for £20.

Please call 01278 662 629 to book or visitwww.clavelshaybarn.co.uk

READ OURREVIEW ONPAGE 50!

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KEITH FLOYD

The unveiling of a plaque honouring thelate celebrity chef Keith Floyd is to beput up at the site of his first restauranton Princess Victoria Street in Clifton. Acharismatic and eccentric character,Keith Floyd is being recognised as themost universally known person from thearea in the past century.

Mr Floyd, who died of a heart attackaged 65 in September last year, ranthree restaurants in Bristol during the1970s when his TV career began to takeoff. In his lifetime wrote numerousbooks and presented at least 20television series, which are still beingshown in over 40 countries worldwide.

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> flavour news

MILSOM PLACE

This month the country’s top artisan cheese-makers are gathering in Bath for Fine Cheese Co. Festival atMilsom Place in Bath. Enthusiasts will be able to meet the cheesemakers in person and sample their superb English cheeses.

The cast list will include many colourful characters such as PeteHumphries of White Lake Cheese from Shepton Mallett andGraham Padfield from Bath Soft Cheese. No Somerset cheesefestival would be complete without cheddar and Keens is thechampion of his discipline. Celebrity dairymaids Suzanne Stirkeand Sue Proudfoot will be bringing their very special cheeses andbig personalities too, so mark the date in your diary and come tomeet them in person.

The Fine Cheese Co. Festival takes place on 30 October between10-6pm.

www.milsomplace.co.uk

ALLINGTON FARM SHOP AND CAFÉ

The seasons are changing and Allington Farm Shop in Chippenham is celebrating withan array of fresh, new and very exciting produce! Pop along to pick from the deliciousvariety of English apples, sacks full of homegrown potatoes, winter cabbage and muchmore. Everything grown and sold is used in the café kitchen and can be tasted in thehomemade soups, casseroles and pies. Prepare for Christmas and place your order forthe home reared turkey today and whilst you’re there this month, you can pick up largecappuccino and a slice of scrumptious chocolate biscuit cake for just £3.50!

www.allingtonfarmshop.co.uk

TURN TOPAGE 55 TO FIND OUTMORE!

greenlivingmagazine

flavour is proud to announce the launch of a brand new website for our sister magazine GreenLiving, your lifestyle guide to all things eco! Visitwww.greenlivingmagazine.co.uk to see for yourself.

Newsq7:Layout 1 06/10/2010 18:10 Page 5

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> flavour in season

>ShallotsShallots are part of the onion family butgenerally have a more delicate, sweeterflavour than their larger cousins and sodon’t work well as substitutes. Theygrow in clusters in the ground too so willoften contain more than one bulb inside.Prepare as you would an onion bytopping and peeling the thin skin.Banana shallots are one of the largervarieties and are easier to slice finely.Depending on their water content theystore very well sometimes up to a monthor two. Try roasting them whole withgarlic bulbs alongside the Sunday roastor slicing finely before frying with whitewine, garlic and adding a sack ofmussels fresh from the beach!

>PumpkinsThe massacre of the pumpkins is not faraway so have yourself some ammunitionwith which to put the unwanted bits to useas pumpkins can yield some wonderfullywarming recipes. If cooked right pumpkinhas a rich, sweet taste that works well withsavoury flavours. The seeds can be roastedwith salt & dried chilli as a healthy littlesnack and the flesh can be roasted withsome big hitting herbs such as thyme orwhizzed up into a thick, spicy soup. Look forweighty, firm pumpkins without blemishes.If damaged it will not store well but if leftintact and healthy, it will keep for months ina cool dark place. Make sure they don’t justend being carved up and left for dead on thegarden wall!

At their best

SHALLOT WITH DIJON MUSTARD, AND HONEY DRESSINGPeel and roughly chop 1 small clove of garlic and 2 large shallots, place in a small metalbowl with 1 tbsp of Dijon mustard, 2 tbsp water, 1 tbsp white wine vinegar and 1 tbsp honey, blend with a stick blender until the onion and garlic are broken down intosmall pieces, gradually blend in ¼ pint of salad oil being careful not to split the dressing,season and serve. Great for cold blanched vegetables.

ROASTED PUMPKIN WITH TOASTED PINE KERNELS, BASIL AND SUNDRIEDTOMATOESServes 4Peel and chop 1 medium pumpkin into largepieces discarding the seeds, plunge intoboiling salted water for approximately 4minutes or until just cooked, drain well andput to one side. Pour a large splash of oliveoil into a non stick roasting tray and place ina pre heated oven to 180°C, when the oil ishot add the pumpkin, sprinkle with 1 tsppaprika and roast through in the oven,occasionally turning. Chop 180g sundriedtomatoes into halves and shred a smallbunch of basil leaves. When the pumpkin isroasted, add 120g toasted pine kernels andthe sundried tomatoes, continue to cook fortwo minutes then remove from the oven, and

allow to drain. Finally mix through thebasil, check seasoning and serve.

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> flavour xxxxxxx

7

At their best right now

We all know that eating with the seasons makes for healthier bodies and tastier dishes. Each month Tom Bowles from Hartley Farm and Stuart Ash from Woods Restaurant team up to bring you all you need to know about the best produce of the month.

>MushroomsWild mushrooms bear the colours of autumn. There are varieties available all yearbut they are at their most abundant at this time of year. Possibly the most well-known are the chanterelles and ceps but there are plenty of others about. It is best toequip yourself with a bit of knowledge before you head out though as some can belethal – if you are unsure, don’t risk it. As well as a knowledgeable guide, bring alonga wire or wicker basket to collect them as they will decompose quickly if left inplastic. They can be left in a fridge in a moisture absorbent bag to prevent them fromgetting wet for a day or two. Try drying them out to preserve the flavours past theirseasons. To prepare them cut away any dirt and debris. It is also a good idea to halveor quarter them to make sure they are not spoiled inside. Possibly best enjoyed friedup with a bit of butter on some crusty bread and topped with some chopped parsley.

ROASTED COD FILLET WITH CREAMEDWILD MUSHROOMS AND NOILLY PRATServes 4Place a medium frying pan on the heatwith a splash of olive oil, when the oil is hotadd 1 clove of chopped garlic and 2 peeledand finely chopped shallots, then cookuntil soft add in 500g chopped mushroomsand continue to sauté for approximatelyfour minutes, add 100ml Noilly Prat thencontinue to cook until the liquid hasreduced to a minimum, add ¼ pint creamand gently bring to the boil. Remove fromthe heat and season. Pan fry 4 codportions with skin on in a large frying panto colour it, cook skin side down first thenflip over and colour the other side. Place inhot oven and cook for approx 5 minutes oruntil cooked. Remove from the heat andallow resting for 3 minutes. When ready toserve re-heat the cream mushrooms,portion between four bowls and serve codfillets on top.

APPLE AND TARRAGON SAUCEPeel, core and cut 700g apples into small pieces, place in a pan along with 100mlwater and 30g sugar, cover and cook until soft, pass the cooked apples through a sieve.Next add juice of ¼ lemon, pinch of nutmeg and 60g butter then whisk together, allowthe apple sauce to cool then mix in 1 tbsp chopped tarragon. Serve with pork.

>ApplesWith over 7,000 varieties to choosefrom you really are spoiled for choice.Come late August, the great Britishclassics should dominate shelves butsadly this isn't always the case. Atruly classic Cox’s Orange Pippin canbe sidelined by a tasteless, importedbeastly variety purely on aestheticsand not on taste, this is food afterall! Apples should be firm with tautskin. Don’t be put off by a matt orfreckled surface, apples don’t have tobe shiny, they are better judged on theirfeel and fragrance. Apples should be keptcool or in the fridge. Many varieties willkeep well, some for up to a month in theright conditions. Challenge yourself withsome lesser known varieties such as theWorcester Pearmain or Greensleeves.

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Telephone: 0845 475 0145www.chefforallseasons.co.uk

Chef For All Seasons recently catered for my dinner party of 16 guests.They went out of their way to help me, providing three exceptional menusto suit my budget - the food was excellent and exceeded all myexpectations. Both the chef and the waitress were a pleasure to havearound, they found their way around the kitchen and left it cleaner thanwhen they arrived! Thanks for a most enjoyable evening; I just need anexcuse to have another dinner party now! ” Helen Nash

“

Let us bringthe restaurant to your door!

If you’ve got a special event comingup or are simply after a dinner partyto remember, then why not hire aprivate chef to cook for you in thecomfort of your own home?

Our chefs are on hand to cookwhatever whets your appetite.They’llconstruct a menu with you and giveyou those little tips gleaned fromyears of expertise in the trade.

We’ll also send a waitress and takecare of all the washing up, so all youhave to do is concentrate on sittingback and enjoying your evening.

ACFAS Oct:P.52 6/10/10 18:32 Page 1

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> flavour fab foodie reads

For bookworms who love nothing more than cooking up a feast for family and friends,our monthly selection of new releases is enough to keep anyone entertained!

THE HOME COOKBOOK BY MONTY AND SARAH DON Bloomsbury £25

The Home Cookbook is exactly whatit says on the tin – a wonderfulcollection of over 250 recipescelebrating the best of Britishdomestic cooking as it has evolvedover the centuries and still exists,especially in the countryside. Montyand Sarah Don share the recipesthat they cook and eat at their homein Ivington, influenced more fromthe tradition of the Women’sInstitute rather than celebrity chefs.The book is arranged by meal timesand full of the delights that youwant to eat all year round, fromhearty roasts for the winter anddelicious salads for the summer.

THE WHOOPIE PIE BOOKCLAIRE PTAK Square Peg £15

A whoopie is not a cookie, it’s not atypical cake and it’s definitely not apie. In fact it exists in a scrumptiousparallel universe somewherebetween cupcakes and ice creamsandwiches and this book is theperfect introduction to gettingstarted with baking’s latest trend.Claire Ptak, pastry chef and ownerof Violet, London’s sell out bakery,has put together 60 mouthwateringrecipes with treats for everyoccasion. Here at flavour, we aregetting very excited about the rose-pistachio whoopie. Naughty but verynice!

fab foodie reads

MARCO MADE EASY BY MARCO PIERRE WHITE Weidenfeld & Nicolson £20

The Michelin starred chef, MarcoPierre White has created recipes for100 classic dishes using storecupboard essentials and only a fewfresh ingredients, making lastminute meals easy, affordable andtasty. Steak with peppercorn sauce ismade with Lea and Perrins and achicken stock cube and the turkeythigh stuffed on the bone is madewith Paxo stuffing and cornflour. Thisbook is a masterclass in producingglamorous, restaurant quality foodwith the simplest possibleinstructions. A book suitable for abusier lifestyle.

GREAT FAMILY WINE ESTATES OFFRANCE: STYLE, TRADITION, HOME BY SOLVI DOS SANTOS ANDFLORENCE BRUTTON Thames and Hudson, £28

This beautifully illustrated coffeetable book is a visual journeythrough the private homes at theheart of the revered French wineindustry. Internationally renownedphotographer Solvi dos Santosreveals both the grand formalityand the distinctive domesticity ofthe time-honoured estates of thefamilies who have establishedsome of the finest wine traditionson the planet. Discover theimportance of local customs andthe history of each estate, as wellas picking up practical detailssuch as a list of wines the estatesproduce and visitor information.

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> flavour loves...

THIS MONTH’S MUST DO, BUY & SEE...

flavour

Severnshed

Following new ownership, an innovativerefurbishment of the interior and a revisedmenu, Severnshed on Bristol's harboursidehas made a come back worth shoutingabout. The à la carte combines the usualfavourites with new and exciting dishessuch as lobster risotto, lamb Wellington andoven roasted duck. A traditional roast isavailable every Sunday and served until it’sall gone!

T: 01179 251212W: www.severnshedrestaurant.co.uk

Dancing Trousers

Based in the heart of the Cotswolds, Dancing Trousers Cookery Schoolis the brainchild of professional chef Alexis Thompson, who teachessmall groups in her own spacious kitchen. Courses are wonderfullyinteractive and everyone sits down with a glass of wine afterwards toenjoy the fruits of their labours. A variety of courses are availableincluding Christmas cooking - and a course voucher makes a perfectgift too!

T: 01367 860144W: www.dancingtrousers.co.uk

Smeg

Create the retro look inyour kitchen with thissuper stylish 50’s stylerefrigerator with icecompartment from Smeg.There are 10 differentcolours to choose fromand it has an A+ energyrating. Nailsea Electricalare Bristol’s official SmegCentre and offer the bestdeals nationwide,promising to beat anyprice in store or online.

T: 01179 246002 W: www.nailseaelecrical.co.uk

Loves

Halloween at Hazelwood

Spend Halloween the grown up way at agourmet evening in Hazelwood House, ahotel in Devon whose defining elementsare nature, beauty, art and space. Enjoy afirelit evening with a seasonal menu and acarefully selected glass of wine to matcheach course. Music will be provided byclassical guitarist AdamGreen throughout the evening.

Saturday 30th October at 7pm. The eventis £48 per person including wines andbooking is essential.

T: 01548 821232W: www.hazelwoodhouse.com

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> flavour loves...

11

withcheese.co.uk

Since tasting her first chunk of Roquefort at the age of six,withcheese.co.uk founder Maxine Twynam from Bristol washooked. Her web-based company specialises in providing highquality products to go with cheese, offering a fabulous range ofaccompanying food such as chutneys sourced from the SouthWest made by Bristol-based preserving company AvonGorgeous. Her range of gifts includes beautiful handcraftedolive wood cheese boards made in Devon.

W: www.withcheese.co.uk

Bart Spices

To celebrate National Home Baking Week which runs from 18-24 October, we've been letting our creative side take over and usingBart Spices sugar balls to liven up our cupcakes and biscuits. Inaddition to the Bart's sugar balls there's a huge range of homebaking ingredients that can be found on the website including jellydiamonds, vanilla sugar and arrowroot.

T: 01179 773474W: www.bartspices.com

WIN! A SELECTION BOX OF FIVE DELICIOUS CHILLICHOCOLATES FROM THE SOUTH DEVON CHILLI FARM.

Flavours include original, orange, fruit and spice, peppermint and coffee bean sothere's sure to be something for everyone to enjoy. South Devon Chilli Farm growover 100 varieties of chillies and use a blend of their dried chillies to flavour andwarm this smooth, dark chocolate.

T: 01548 550782W: www.southdevonchillifarm.co.uk

To win simply email: [email protected] stating your name,address, phone number and where you got your copy of the magazine. Good luck!

Made by Bob

Made By Bob opened in Cirencester lastyear and thanks to chef proprieter BobParkinson's culinary pedigree (whichincluded a stint at Bibendum under SimonHopkinson) people have been queuing fortables ever since! They're open from 7.30amserving fantastic food and drink throughoutthe day, from breakfast and mid-morningcoffee through to lunch and afternoontea. The menu changes daily and everythingis freshly prepared on the day usingseasonal, local produce along with somecarefully selected, high quality Italianfare. It’s simple stuff, done brilliantly.

T: 01285 641818W: www.foodmadebybob.com

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> flavour keith goverd

Keith’s interest in microbiology grew fromhumble beginnings. Riding the bus to theseaside to discover the world of biodiversityavailable at his fingertips spawned aninquisitive nature and a desire tounderstand things right to their core. Aftercompleting a degree in Microbiology, Keithbegan work as a consultant for thegovernment, quickly becoming aninvaluable source of knowledge in the fruitprocessing field.

“At the beginning I was invited to India withanother consultant who taught me a lot. Idid several trips to the Caribbean, Ghana,Cameroon and other third world countriesworking mainly on fruit processing plants.”Keith offered technical support withprocessing systems, often designing andbuilding equipment from scratch as well asan imparting his encyclopaedic knowledgeof fruit.

Most significantly, Keith developed apasteuriser which most apple juiceproducers use on a small scale to this day.“I developed the electronics so it became afully automatic machine meaning a highlevel of efficiency was achieved withminimum wastage.”

Today, Keith can be found on his farm inCompton Dando or indeed helping to runthe Bath Farmers' Market every Saturday atthe Greenpark Station. Keith still offersadvice and consultation when he’s called

upon, getting apple and fruit businesses offof the ground: “I thirst after knowledge but Iwouldn’t call myself an expert, just aspecialist. You can’t know it all. Apples aresuch a diverse fruit and one that we shouldbe proud of. We grow them best in thiscountry because quite simply, we have theperfect climate for the job. We have about600 varieties which originate in the UK,others have been imported from placessuch as America, Australia and Denmark.”

Keith’s apple juices, ciders and cidervinegars epitomise the highest standard offruit processing. The apples are handpickedwith a view to never using anything thatcouldn’t be eaten. After being milled andpressed, vitamin C is added and left tosettle overnight before enteringpasteurisation. The juice can then bebottled for pure apple juice or fermented forcider and cider vinegar. Nothing is wastedand the cores are given to the local farmersfor compost.

Being a part of an industry where producershave been undercut by aggressivemarketing has meant that Keith is the lastapple juice manufacturer in ComptonDando: “I probably enjoy my work more nowthan I ever have done. I don’t tie myself toanyone now but everybody in the industryknows if they have any problems, they canalways call me.”

With over 2,400 apple varieties available, nipping to the supermarket for a Granny Smith or trusty Coxmight be deemed as a little fruitless. We speak with specialist producer Keith Goverd to uncover howwe can make the most from the apple harvest and enjoy one of the nation's best kept secrets…

Keith Goverd

The Bailiff’s CottageThe GreenCompton DandoBristolBS39 4LE

www.bathfarmersmarket.co.uk www.commonground.org.uk

Apples are such a diverse fruit and one thatwe should be proud of. We grow them best inthis country because quite simply, we have theperfect climate for the job.

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> flavour keith goverd

Fruits of my labour:Keith sporting the latest

addition to the farm, RedDevil – a claret colouredjuice made from a single

variety apple.

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REGIONAL BREWEROF THE YEAR 2009

Watergate Bay, Newquay

ENJOY THE SOUTH WEST’S FAVOURITE ALE.

AVAILABLE IN PUBS AND SUPERMARKETS

ACROSS THE REGION. TRIBUTEALE.CO.UK

15

> flavour north cornwall

An area that boasts 60 miles of dramatic AtlanticHeritage Coast, North Cornwall hastraditionally enjoyed the same seasonal shelf lifeas many of the UK’s coastal areas. That is untilnow. Because as the cooler months of the year

become milder and the prospect of a tourist-free break evermore attractive, so too does the region’s rugged beauty.

Steeped in history and legend alike, you can explore a myriadof country houses and castles, not forgetting of course King

Arthur’s Tintagel and the enchanting Bodmin Moor. Itscountless cliffs, coves and market towns are sure to remainonly partly discovered for first-time visitors as will its ever-growing clusters of gastronomic havens, with the Rick Steinoperation in Padstow firmly established as its backbone.

So ditch the surfboard, dig out your wind-breaker andembark on a culinary journey around a place that’s fastbecoming the South West’s most-sought after holidaydestination, all year round...

North Cornwall: Eat your way around the Atlantic Coast

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North CornwallPADSTOW

Rick Stein is somewhat misleadinglylabelled a ‘celebrity chef’. In fact,with his ex-wife Jill, he has fourrestaurants, a delicatessen, apatisserie, a seafood cookery school

and 40 hotel bedrooms in the small fishing portof Padstow on the north coast of Cornwall,which has developed over the past 35 years.

Numerous hoteliers and tourists cite Rick andJill Stein as the first to put the area on the mapby attracting great chefs and foodies with theirinimitable love of seafood. People flock from allover the UK to visit the range of gastronomicexperiences on offer in Padstow, and are rarelydisappointed. Such is the operation’s presencein the area it is known as ‘Padstein’, and itsability to evolve and diversify seems to ensure itscontinued popularity.

The Seafood Restaurant had a majorrefurbishment in January 2008 and the newlook restaurant now includes a convivialseafood bar right in the middle. Last FebruaryRick also took over a pub, The Cornish Arms, acouple of miles outside Padstow in St Merryn.It’s definitely not a gastro pub but maintains a

busy public bar for the locals and features disheslike fish pie, grilled cod with mushy peas andscampi in the basket. Rick’s latest venture, RickStein’s Fish & Chips, opened in Falmouth inMarch of this year.

A firm favorite with locals and visitors alike isthe St. Petroc’s Bistro. The atmosphere isbustling and lively with bold, modern paintingsbrightening the white walls of the bistro.What’s more, from the beginning of this monthuntil April of next year, diners can sample threedelicious courses for only £17.50 – not to bemissed!

“Padstow in the winter is delightfully comfortable. Even when there’s asouth-westerly gale blowing out at Trevose Head there is a feeling ofbeing snug in the narrow streets, cosseted by warm restaurants, shopsand pubs. You can take invigorating walks watching mountainous seasbut on other days it is still, crisp and bright.” – Rick Stein.

WINTER BREAKS AT RICK STEIN’S This winter, Rick Stein is offering a 2-nightdinner, bed & breakfast short break whereyou will be staying in one of his rooms anddining at both The Seafood Restaurant andSt Petroc’s Bistro from just £21 perperson. You can extend your stay for a thirdnight and dine at Rick Stein’s Café for anadditional £85 per person.

Starting from Sunday 31st October 2010until Thursday 7th April 2011.

Please call 01841 532 700 or visitwww.rickstein.com for more information.


17


LOOK OUT FOR...

JACK’SAn affordable casual eatery tucked awayfrom the hustle and bustle, serving freshlocal produce on smaller plates enablingyou to try more dishes and to share withfriends.

T: 01841 533238W: www.padstowjacks.co.uk

MARGOT'SOffering just eight tables which makes for acosy atmosphere, the staff at Margot's arefriendly and the cuisine makes use of goodlocal materials produced in a no-nonsensemanner.

T: 01841 533441 W: www.margotspadstow.blogspot.com

THE HARBOUR RESTAURANTThe Harbour Restaurant at The Metropolehas an AA Rosette for good food and itskitchen produces some superb fish dishesfor you to try while over looking the whole ofthe estuary.

T: 0800 005 3903W: www.the-metropole.co.uk

PESCADOULocated within town's old custom house,Pescadou has very much a mediterraneanfeel, which is reflected in both the menuand the decor.

T: 01841 532359 W: www.oldcustomhousepadstow.co.uk

Although it is Mr. Stein that tends to bringpeople to Padstow, your visit won’t be completewithout calling into this gastronomic hotspot.Having worked under industry giants such asGary Rhodes, Gordon Ramsay and MarcusWareing, owner Paul Ainsworth boasts a C.Vthat few chefs outside London can match. Therestaurant occupies a Grade II listed Georgiantownhouse and offers diners a fascinating rabbitwarren of different spaces; you might want todine with friends in the private dining roomcome library and flick through Paul’s personalcollection of cookbooks, or peruse a menu inthe stylish surroundings of the 40 coverrestaurant while sipping on a fresh white bellini.

By no means reflected in the price, therestaurant’s minimalist menu is akin to thosefound in many a Michelin establishment -ingredients are simply listed and theircomposition remains a mystery until arrival.Paul himself describes his food as ‘clean with bigflavours’; showcasing some of the best Cornishproduce with his own unique twist.

No. 6’s open-to-all policy welcomes walkersseeking a sumptuous cream tea and elegantevening diners in equal measure. Whatconsistently exceeds expectations across the

board however is the outstanding quality andservice to price ratio, and with a three-courselunch coming in at just £15, there’s no excusenot to make your own mind up.

T: 01841 532093W: www.number6inpadstow.co.uk

Paul [email protected]


18


Sharp’s Brewery

North CornwallROCK

This year, Sharp’s Brewery has teamedup with Michelin starred chef Nathan

Outlaw at his Seafood and Grillrestaurant, also in Rock. There

will be two events in whichguests will be treated to fivecourses of delicious, locallysourced food, demonstratedby Nathan on the night. Eachdish will then be paired witha Sharp’s beer, introduced byStuart Howe. Tickets for this

event are on sale now andcost £75 each. Please call

01208 863394 or [email protected] to book.

Since its foundation in 1994 at Rock, Sharp’sBrewery - one of a new generation of breweriesat the forefront of the cask beer renaissance -has grown rapidly to become the largest brewerof cask ale in the South West, producing some74,000 barrels of beer each year, sold inthousands of pubs nationwide.

A very modern brewer, Sharp’s embraces thebright future of cask beer. Integral to theSharp’s team is head brewer Stuart Howe(above), who combines his biochemicalexpertise and palpable passion for brewing withoutstanding results, “A large part of what we dois all about creating a consistent taste withoutinterfering chemically along the way, andalthough they might say different, that’s whymy job is far more tricky than a winemakers!”he says.

The drive to make quality and provenance thecornerstone of everything they do has ledSharp’s to collaborate with other like-mind people and organisations. Foodhero Rick Stein challenged Sharp’s todevelop a beer to be matched withseafood. Stein was so pleased withChalky’s Bite (named after his

faithful companion) that he asked Stuart toproduce another beer to work with recipes hehas developed. The kennel-mate brew, Chalky’sBark, is now also an award-winner.

Sharp’s has also teamed up with the EdenProject to source a range of different produce,like Cornish honey, to add flavour andcharacter to their recent range of seasonal beers.There is even a programme of growing hops atthe Eden Project in a further collaborationbetween the two organisations.

Quality is the cornerstone of the brewery,which uses only four basic ingredients in theirbeers: Cornish water, UK barley, whole hopsand yeast. The aim is to produce beer of thehighest quality with the finest naturalingredients available and not the artificialadditives commonly found in brewing today.“One of the greatest parts of my job is that I’venever been put under pressure to scrimp onquality or about yield,” Stuart adds, “Sayingthat, we still managed to produce 2.5 millionpints back in July so I don’t think there’s muchneed to!”

T: 01208 862121W: www.sharpsbrewery.co.uk



Taking it’s original name after the war from aSwiss town renowned for haute cuisine andexcellent service, The St Moritz Hotel inWadebridge became truly international in theyears that followed, with all chefs learningtheir trade from the best in Switzerland.Politicians, film stars, business leaders andwriters were drawn to the spectacular coastalviews but, most of all, to the hotel’s celebratedapproach to dining.

Today, the newly refurbished St Moritz paysfitting tribute to its for-bearers, and withformer Marco Pierre-White protégé JamesO’Connor at the helm in the kitchen, thehotel’s restaurant is worth the visit alone. Inhis own characteristically modest words,James says: “We’re not chasing Rosettes, wejust want to do what we do well”. The former

A sign outside Di’s Dairy and Pantry reads: ‘A food lover’s temple to the West', andwhilst its modest exterior mightfool passers-by, the emporium ofhome-cooked delights to befound inside certainlymerits the title. Owners Diand Tony Dunkerley, whonow plan to retire, took over thebusiness in 1985, transforming itfrom a poorly stocked village shopinto a friendly general store anddelicatessen which still pridesitself on counter service and liesat the very heart of thecommunity.

The deli sells fine wines, more than 100 cheeses,and an irresistible array of Di’s veryown traditional family recipes – her treacle tart,apple Charlotte and pasties being best-sellers.

“I sometimes feel that the art of English cookinghas gone by the board, and over the years

I’ve tried to continue what I ateand learned to cook as a child. My mother was a great cook and

my father a great gardener– we never wastedanything so making

jams, conserves andpickles is like second

nature to me,” she says. Soafter 24 years in the business,

what does retirement hold forthe Dunkerleys? “My husband and I are really looking forward to

enjoying the beautiful area we live in. I originally trained as an art student so I’ll beattempting to get it all down on canvas too!”

T: 01208 863531 W: www.disdairyandpantry.co.uk

however, seems a very likely outcome of thelatter. Fans of Somerset’s Babington Housewill also be glad to know that the hotel boastsits very own sister Cowshed Spa too.

T: 01208 862242W: www.stmoritzhotel.co.uk

A stone’s throw away...

Di’s Dairy

Tides RestaurantTides Restaurant in Rock has gatheredpace since it's opening in Early 2009.Manager Dominic Aalders and head chefTom Scade have brought a touch ofpassion and elegance to one of NorthCornwall's truly idyllic spots. Therestaurant offers a warm welcome onarrival and delivers a carefully consideredmenu which include treats from localproducers, including Camel estuarymussels and oysters.

T: 01208 863679W: www.marinersrock.com


Tides restaurant at the MarinersRock, is a unique experience. Ourwaterside location by the Camelestuary in Rock, makes this thebest spot in Cornwall to take inthe stunning views across theestuary, while enjoying a

sophisticated dining experience.

Head Chef Tom Scade has manyyears experience at the Ritz hotelin London and savours creatingdishes from qualityCornish produce thatwill excite and pleaseyour palate.

A la carte and set menusavailable.

For bookings, please call 01208863679 or book online atwww.marinersrock.com

Tides Restaurant, Mariners Rock, Slipway, Rock, PL27 6LD

e-mail [email protected]

Rated on

TRIP

ADVISOR!

Welcome to Tides


21


Owners of Merlin Farm Lucy and Darrel havehospitality in the blood, the latter havinginherited a hotel in Newquay which heeventually sold to buy the farm three years ago.With a background in hotel architecture,Darrel set about renovating the stables, whichhave now been transformed into four boutiqueself-catering cottages.

Set in the backdrop of 27 acres of beautifulcountryside overlooking the Vale of Lanherne,sustainability lies at the heart of Merlin Farm,

encompassing everything from argon filledwindows and solar powered water heating to anorganic hedge trimmer in the form of a donkey!Having been born and raised in Cornwall, thecouple are both well-informed and forthcomingon the best places to visit, and perhaps mostimportantly, eat. Just as well then that MerlinFarm is less than half an hour away from Jamie'sFifteen, Rick Stein's eateries and The EdenProject.

T: 01637 860236W: www.merlinfarm.co.uk

Merlin Farm

Ben Lowe – emerging star of a Saatchi Galleryexhibition – recently depicted the area’s iconicBedruthen Steps in all their glory. Thoselooking to take a walk down the steps would bewell advised to reward themselves with a stop-off at Carnewas Tea Room when they climbback up them. The well appointed tea room isowned by The National Trust and boastsperhaps the best cream teas to be found formiles around; no mean feat given the stiffcompetition.

Opening hours are seven days a week from 11-4pm.

T: 01637 860701E: [email protected]

Carnewas Tea Room

One of the most talked about hotels of 2010,The Scarlet most recently picked up an AAaward for ‘Eco-Hotel of the Year’ – a categorywhich ran for the first time last month. Ownedby three sisters with a vision for offeringguests ‘really delicious food, Cornish art andquirky stuff to make people smile’, the design-led hotel capitalises on its stunning coastalviews through its large glass panelsthroughout.

The restaurant is headed up by Michelinstarred chef Ben Tunnicliffe, whose passion for

serving robust food showcases some of thebest local fare on offer.

Expect a balance of light, airy spaces withcosy, private areas, allowing you to mix withour other guests or enjoy a bit of peace andsolitude. As an adult-only venue however,families would be well advised to try itsneighbouring hotel, The Bedruthen Steps.

T: 01637 861800W: www.scarlethotel.co.uk

The Scarlet

North CornwallMAWGAN PORTH


Overlooking the UK’s first FlowRider –a state-of-the-art ‘standing’ wave – thecolourful, bright and airy venue is theperfect place to enjoy a light snack

such as a superfoods salad, or something morefilling such as pan-roasted salmon withcaramelised leek and onion tart , or RossWither’s ribeye steak with truffle mash, fieldmushrooms and roasted thyme tomatoes. Themenu has been carefully designed to include thevery best of local Cornish produce with dailyspecials, children’s meals and a delicious rangeof tempting dessert options in addition to ahigh-quality wine and beer list. Teas and coffeesare served throughout the day but forsomething a little more adventurous a freshly-made cocktail is certain to whet the appetite.

Conceived by Cornwall-based Absolute Design,the Loop Restaurant interior mixes fresh andfunky tones of green, pink and white with lightwooden panelling and stylish contemporarylighting. As comfortable as it is functional, theeating area exudes laidback sophistication –ideal for families, friends and couples – whilethe addition of a children’s soft play area meansmums and dads can relax and enjoy the bubblyatmosphere, the exhilarating sights and soundsof the FlowRider in action and the scintillatingaromas of culinary delights being prepared inthe open kitchen.

Having spent 10 years in Australia, ExecutiveChef Stephen Lloyd has returnedto Cornwall with his ambition to conjure upfresh, fun and seasonal dishes. Awarded his 1Chef Hat – Australia’s equivalent to a Michelinstar – at The Spirit House in Noosa, Stephen’sfocus has always been on using the best availableproduce to create unpretentious, wholesomeand healthy food. “Cornwall offers such abrilliant range of fresh and interestingingredients, the options are endless and I’m just

thrilled to be working on such an exciting andinnovative project,” he says.

“The Loop is going to be truly different to anyother dining experience in Cornwall and it’sgoing to be the place to come for family diningin North Cornwall. Enjoying great food whilstwatching people on the UK’s first FlowRider –it couldn’t get much more unique,” he adds.

Following on from the success of theFlowRider, the opening of the accompanyingLoop Bar and Restaurant represents a milestonein the development of Retallack as the world’sfirst inland ‘surf resort’. A second, moreadvanced FlowRider and a 100m breakingwavepool are both in the pipeline and Retallackmanagers Amy and Jason Keyter are passionateabout creating a safe and unique environmentfor guests of all ages to enjoy a revitalising,healthy and memorable experience.

Retallack ResortWinnard Perch St Columb MajorCornwallTR9 6DE

01637 882400www.retallackresort.co.uk

22


A room with a view like noother, the stylish Loop Barand Restaurant at the five-star Retallack Resort nearWadebridge is now open forlunches, evening meals andweekend breakfasts with anextreme sports twist.

In The Loop


23


Ingredients4 x 180g salmon fillets, skin off150g preserved blackbeans50ml light soy sauce200g ginger80g dark palm sugar4 heads bok-choi270g jasmine rice270ml coconut milk200ml water1⁄2tsp saltPeanut oil

Method· Soak the beans in hot water for 10 minutes· Drain off the liquid· Peel the ginger and grate it finely along withthe garlic

· Fry the ginger and garlic in peanut oil on lowto medium heat until soft

· Add the blackbeans, sugar and soy sauce thencook for about 10 minutes slowly

· Allow to cool in plastic container· Meanwhile, bring the coconut milk and waterto boil and add salt

· Add the rice and bring back to the boil, stirringconstantly

· Turn heat down to low, cover with foil andcook for 18 minutes

· Turn off heat and allow to stand for a further10 minutes

· To serve, place a quarter of the paste on eachsalmon fillet, steam until cooked to your liking(about 5-6 minutes)

· Quickly stir-fry the bok-choi in peanut oil andserve with the coconut rice

STEAMED SALMON WITH BLACKBEAN AND GINGERPASTE, COCONUT RICE AND BOK-CHOI

There’s a heavy Asian influence inAustralian cuisine which I plan to use in mynew menu. I think the sensational exoticflavours such as those in this dish will offerour diners something they won’t findanywhere else in the area.


ENJOY A MEAL

Come and enjoy a meal at our new restaurant, The Kitchen. You can choose to eat inside or outside on our decked terrace overlooking the beach, sea and dramatic Cornish coast. You’ll be rewarded with spectacular views and a feast for all the senses.

To book a table or organise a special event, please call us on

01637 851879

We look forward to welcoming you to The Kitchen at Lusty Glaze Beach, where we pride ourselves on serving quality food at affordable prices. Aaron Edwards, Head Chef

The Kitchen is at Lusty Glaze beach, on the outskirts of Newquay in Cornwall. Postcode TR7 3AE.

NEWQUAY

with a view

www.lustyglaze.co.uk

HALF TERMOCTOBER

KIDS EATFREE

Special Christmas Menu throughout November & December. Three course meal with wine; only £19.95 per head. Advanced bookings only. See website for details.

Christmas on the beach

Over the summer I’ve done quite a fewoutdoor events and regardless of theweather, it hasn’t been all bad. My mostrecent bout of cross country jaunts saw meat the Ludlow Slow Food Festival (pouredwith rain), judging at an in-house cookerycompetition for the Royal MarineCommandos just outside Exeter (overcastand dull) and demonstrating at the FromeCheese Festival (brilliant sunshine) all thison top of the day job!

Some of you may have read about thecheese sandwich that I created for theFrome show. It made the papers the worldover, including the New York Post, DelhiTimes, Somerset Guardian and notforgetting the Daily Star. It also made it

> flavour columnist martin blunos

One of the South West’s most talented chefs, Martin Blunos was born and brought up near Bath, his parents having come to England from Latvia just after the Second World War. He has held twoMichelin stars for more than fifteen years and appears regularly on television and radio with

regular slots as guest chef on BBC1’s Saturday Kitchen with James Martin, BBC Market Kitchen, ITV Daily Cooks and ITV’s Saturday Cooks.

25

onto ITV’s Daybreak and Australia’sChannel 9 – now there’s world domination.

A three tiered buttie filled with a whitetruffle cheddar, made by those wonderfulfolks at Pilgrims Choice in Wincanton and afew other choice ingredients finished offwith a dusting of gold leaf and voilà, youhave a sarnie that comes in at a creditcrunching £110.00 a pop.

Would I pay that? No way – a bit of extramature and a dollop of chutney betweendecent bread will do me fine and that’ll beunder a fiver for sure.

The whole point was to see how much youcould spend if you had no budget, or sense.I have no doubt that with more thought Icould triple the cost by adding thehandpicked pistachio nuts from NewZealand for example, transported overlandof course because the air pressure fromflying them in would cause the texture andflavour to be impaired.

CHEESUS!Following a stint of back-to-back demos, Martin Blunos takestime out for a rather pricey sandwich break...

Here’s a recipe for a seasonal chutneythat goes equally well in a cheesesandwich or an accompaniment for aplate of cold cut meat and pâtés.Really simple, tasty and best of all,cheap to make!

Ingredients1kg Gala apples, peeled and cored½ kg Granny Smith apples, peeled andcored weight 750g light muscovado sugar 350g sultanas 2 medium white onions, chopped 2 tsp mustard seeds 2 tsp ground ginger¼ tsp ground clove 1 tsp salt 500 ml cider vinegar

Method1 Cut the apples into 1.5cm pieces andset aside. 2 Combine all the ingredients in alarge saucepan, then bring themixture to the boil over a mediumheat. Reduce and simmer uncovered,stirring frequently, for 30-40 minutes,until thick in consistency. 3 Add the apples and continue forapproximately 30 minutes to cookuntil the apple pieces become tender.4 Remove from the heat and leave tocool. 5 Transfer to jars and seal. Leave forat least a month before using.

APPLE CHUTNEY

25 MartinBlunos:Layout 1 6/10/10 17:32 Page 25

26

> flavour lunch club

The Ship and Castle, a 500year old traditionalcountry inn do lunch for allseasons, using great localproduce and makingeverything here from theparfait to the ice cream.The menus not onlyreflect the local producebut also the seasons.Traditional ales are on tap along withan extensive wine cellar and full bodied single malt collection,

perfect to relax with in front of the open fire place. Meet up for

lunch, relax with a glass of chilled chenin blanc and dine in

style. This family run county inn caters for everyone and is the

perfect location for business trips and romantic breaks alike.

T: 01934 833535 W: www.shipandcastle.com

OFFER 2 courses for £123 courses for £15Available Monday – Friday 12-5pm.

Laidback and chic, TheBrasserie at Lucknam ParkHotel and Spa sets a newstandard in relaxeddining. The stylish openkitchen turns outsensational treats usinglocally sourced produceunder the daily guidanceof Roux Scholarshipwinner Chef HrishikeshDesai. A warm welcomeawaits you with fresh,creative menus for allday dining and as wellas great value.

T: 01225 742 777 W: www.lucknampark.co.uk

OFFER 2 courses for £16Available Monday-Friday.

Ronnies, winner of theGood Food GuideRestaurant of the Year2009, offers some ofthe most sublimecooking in thecountry and lunch isexceptional value.Only a short trip fromBristol, its well worth a visit. Therestaurant is housed within a sympathetically renovated 17thCentury building with beamed ceilings and natural stoneworkwalls, offering a comfortable and stylish atmosphere. With afocus on quality, freshness and locally sourced ingredientsprepared by a classically trained chef, you are assured asublime and unforgettable dining experience. he menuchanges fortnightly and is made from local seasonal produce.

T: 01454 411137 W: www.ronnies-restaurant.co.uk

OFFER 2 courses for £9.753 courses for £12.75

A quintessentialCotswold Dining Pubwith 8 en suitebedrooms is nestledin the heart of theColn Valley. The innsuccessfullycombines manyoriginal features suchas exposed beams,Cotswold stone walls,open log fires and flagstone floorswith high levels of comfort andservice. The atmospheric andtraditional bar / restaurant islocated in the oldest part of thebuilding offering a special place toenjoy creative dishes using fresh,local and seasonal produce.

T: 01285 720 721W: www.fossebridgeinn.co.uk

OFFER2 courses for £15 3 courses for £20

Available Monday-Wednesday for lunchand dinner throughoutOctober and November.Includes a small glassof house wine perperson.

Lucknam Park

The Inn at Fossebridge Ronnies

Ship and Castle

26-27 Lunch club:Layout 1 6/10/10 17:55 Page 26

27

> flavour lunch club

The Catherine wheel,Marshfield, is agrade 1 listed 17thcentury coachinginn sitting at thegateway to theCotsworlds andboasts a longstanding reputationfor its warmatmosphere andtraditional home cooked meals. Work up an appetite by trying

one of the pubs’ surrounding countryside walks before settling

down in front of a roaring log fire to a delicious, hearty lunch.

T: 01225 892220 W: www.thecatherinewheel.co.uk

OFFER Selected dishes on the lunch time menu for £5.

Available Monday-Thursday throughout October. Choose

from the steak & kidney pie, sausages, bubble & squeak,

beer battered fish & chips or a spicy bean burger.

Placed in the picturesque village of Littleton-on-Severn in theSouth Gloucestershire countryside, this 17th century pub is fullof charm and character. Offering the perfect retreat for acountry lunch, chef Dean Chappell’s modern British cuisineaims to impress.Enjoy the highquality food withchoices such asDevon chickenstuffed with blackpudding or Exmoorbeef braised in localbeer and taste foryourself the passionwhich goes intoevery mouthful.

T: 01454 412275W: www.whitehartbristol.com

OFFER 2 courses plus a bottle of wine for £20 or 2 meals from the same menu for £12.

The White Hart

Delightfully situated in EastChisenbury, The Red LionFreehouse is renowned for aninnovative take ontraditional British food, withinfluences taken fromAmerican, French andSpanish cuisine. Chef and owners Guy andBrittany pride themselveson their lunch time menu,where everything ishomemade from thesourdough bread to thecondiments and homecured meats.

T: 01980 671124W: www.redlionfreehouse.com

OFFER 2 courses for £15 and 3 courses for £20 Available Monday-Friday.

The Catherine Wheel

Red Lion Freehouse

If you’ve started saving your pennies in preparationfor Christmas, you might be glad to know thatwe’ve hunted out some great lunchtime deals,which means dining out in the next few monthsneedn’t be a treat you have to go without!

The Lockhouse Bar and Restaurant provides an stunning

marina location to enjoy AA Rosette British Cuisine and New

World wine. Its individuality allows for a listed holding bar area

(formally a lock-keepers cottage), superb glass structure

restaurant and terrace. With a great ambience created by the

front of house team, the beautiful décor and overall high

standard finish, you can enjoy both a relaxed and elegant

lunch.

T: 01275 397272 W: www.thelockhouseportishead.co.uk

OFFER 2 courses and glass of house wine for

£14.95, and a 3 course Sunday roast for £20.

The Lockhouse

26-27 Lunch club:Layout 1 6/10/10 17:59 Page 27

28

> flavour le mazot

It’s been a busy year for Martin Burge. Aswell as retaining his second Michelin starfor the second year running, WhatleyManor’s industrious head chef has alsomanaged to bag The Dining Room a rankingof 14th in the Good Food Guide’s top 60restaurants.

A seemingly continual string of accoladesattracts diners in their droves to The DiningRoom, yet just across the way, a trick isbeing well and truly missed. For thoseseeking a more informal brasserie-styledining experience, the hotel’s secondrestaurant Le Mazot uses the same kitchenbrigade, store cupboard and attention todetail as The Dining Room, without ofcourse the same price tag that Michelindining inevitably wears.

Le Mazot translates as 'Shepherd's Hut'.These huts are found on the Swiss Alps andused to store grain and provide a shepherdwith a place of rest for the night. Designed,created and built by Swiss craftsmen, LeMazot re-creates the warmth and relaxedease of a Swiss chalet. Panelling andbanquettes are made of antique pine andhandcrafted wall lighting showcases thebrasserie’s intricate forged ironwork andstone tile flooring. Hermès scarves and 3-Dart by renowned artist Volker Kunz add apoint of interest throughout the space too.

In the main entrance to the brasserie you’llsee a picture of the hotel owner’s greatgrandfather with his cheetahs. Edouard-Marcel Sandoz is also the man responsiblefor crafting the three enchanting bronzedonkeys found in the stable courtyard,giving the place a sense of history andtraceability that is sometimes lost in luxuryhotels.

The atmosphere in Le Mazot is sociable andrelaxed with a central fireplace and intimate

alcove seating. There’s also a separatestylish horseshoe shaped bar for pre-dinner drinks. Martin Burge oversees themenu and the food is best described asClassical French with a refined rusticpresentation. Le Mazot would certainly notbe complete without a few Swiss disheseither, which can be found on brasserie’sSwiss menu.

Things got off to a strong start with a localfree-range duck egg baked with ham hocktruffle oil and mustard cream sauce (£8.50);a luxuriously rich and faultlessly presenteddish that was mopped up with chunks ofhome made walnut bread.

Selecting my main course from the Swissmenu, I opted for the corn fed chickenbreast glazed with tomato fondue andEmmental cheese, served with rosti potatoand chicken white wine sauce (£17.50).Despite being a fail-safe combination ofcomforting flavours, the outstanding qualityof ingredients shone through here andreaffirmed why meat in any householdshould be the best the budget will allow,even if that means having less of it.

Finally, a caramel layered mousse andpoppy seed crisp (£8.00) threatened to bejust a tad too feather light in consistency tostand up to the accompanying caramelisedpear. The poppy seed crisp however wasworth every tooth-clinging bite.

Serving nourishing food with a delicatetouch, time spent in the warmth andcomfort of Le Mazot’s surroundings is adelightful way to pass an eveningthroughout the autumn and winter. Betterstill, a two-course dinner and a session inthe hotel’s restorative Aquarias spa costsjust £68.

As the mercury in the temperature gauge begins to retreat, flavourseeks shelter in Le Mazot, a Swiss-style brasserie that’s graduallyemerging from the shadows…

Le MazotWhatley ManorEaston GreyMalmesburyWiltshireSN16 0RB

www.whatleymanor.com

Le Mazot

28-29 Le Mazot:Layout 1 06/10/2010 18:18 Page 28

>

Panelling andbanquettes are madeof antique pine andhandcrafted walllighting showcases thebrasserie’s intricateforged ironwork andstone tile flooring.

28-29 Le Mazot:Layout 1 06/10/2010 18:18 Page 29

AT THE BRASSERIEFor contemporary and stylish dining this Christmas season.Special 3 course festive menu available for lunch and dinner - £33 per person to include coffee and mince pies. For reservations please call The Brasserie on 01225 740575.

Menu available from Wednesday 1st December to Monday 3rd January.

www.lucknampark.co.uk

Tortworth ad:P.52 6/10/10 09:39 Page 1

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> flavour ask a chef

If you have a culinary query for Ronnie, write to us at theusual address or email [email protected]

Q. I'm having a coeliac to dinner –can you recommend some suitabledishes? Trudy Hammond, Bristol

A. Just so we are clear, avoid flour!Cooking for someone suffering fromcoeliac disease should not limit yourchoice much, in fact only two disheson our a la carte menu containgluten and we can easily adapt thosedishes so they are suitable. Thedifficulty comes when you try tothicken sauces, make cakes andbiscuits or offer bread and dessert.Buy a gluten-free bread, thickenyour sauces with potato flour or byreduction, and fruit based puddingswork well.

Q. My store cupboard is full ofdifferent beans and pulses, how can I use them all up? Mark Bandali,Portishead

A. We currently have a 5 bean andchorizo soup on the menu. It isabsolutely wonderful and I have foundmyself having a large bowlful severaltimes. It's a complete meal, although Inormally have a couple of chunks offresh bread too. We cook each beanseparately as they all take differenttimes to cook, make a good beef stockas the base and bring it all togetherwith loads of diced chorizo.

Ask a chef

(?)

R onnie Faulkner is the owner-chef of Ronnie’s Restaurant in Thornbury. Ronnie has had a distinguished career working in some of the most prestigious kitchens in the UK and Europe,

for celebrated chefs such as Anton Mosimann and Ed Baines. Cookingfor national and foreign royalty and dignitaries honed Ronnie's skill and further reinforced his lifelong commitment to food. His menusshowcase the best local produce, earning the restaurant its title as the Good Food Guide’s ‘Restaurant of the Year’.

Q. Is salted caramel difficult to cook? Liz Ferris, Longwell Green

A. Not at all. If you’d like a caramel that setsfirm but will not crack your teeth, which can becovered in chocolate or used as a layer in adessert, then try this: Cook 250g of castersugar with a couple of tablespoons of water toa caramel, remove from the heat and gentlyadd 150ml of double cream. Leave the mixtureto cool slightly and whisk in 150g of unsaltedbutter and season to taste with Maldon SeaSalt. Use as required.

Ronnie Faulkner

T: 0800 849 4455W: www.ronnies-restaurant.co.uk

Q. Any tips for successfully poaching achicken? Jamie McFadden, Bedminster

A. Poaching is a much underused cookingtechnique and is a great way to enjoysucculent, low fat chicken. I would only useskinless breasts, ideally on the crown. Yourpoaching liquor should be highly seasonedwith loads of aromatics and full of flavour. I use carrots, onions, celery, parsley stalks,bay leaves, star anise, coriander seeds,peppercorns and tarragon, which I bring tothe boil and simmer for 30 mins. The liquorshould not boil while you are poaching themeat. Season the chicken well beforepoaching it too.

Q. Where's the best place to source gamein the South Gloucestershire area? Dominic Smith, Cheltenham

A. I use Gales Farm Meats in Filton. Theyhave a number of contacts who aregamekeepers particularly the BadmintonEstate. It's a great time for game with woodpigeons in abundance and venison startingto come in. The shoots will start this monthwith pheasant and don't forget myfavourite: partridge.

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> flavour elizabeth david

BAKED EGGSEggs en cocotte

Have your little fireproof china dishes readywith a good lump of butter in each, and anegg for each person ready broken intoseparate saucers. Put the little dishes intothe oven at 190°C/gas 5 and take them outas soon as the butter has melted, slide anegg into each, pour a large tablespoon ofcream on to the egg, avoiding the yolk,return them to the oven. They will take 4–5minutes to cook, allowing perhaps ½minute less for those on the top shelf.

If you leave them too long, the yolks gethard and the dish is ruined, so be on thealert to see that they are taken out of theoven at the exact moment.

Experience and knowledge of theidiosyncrasies of one’s own oven are themediums of success here. No pepper orsalt should be added, except at table, but avery little cut of fresh tarragon when theycome out of the oven is an acceptableaddition.

Elizabeth DavidIn this new collection of Elizabeth David’s greatest recipes, thewoman who revolutionised post-war British cooking lives on...

Elizabeth’s recipes make you want to cook;the aroma of a dish and its vibrant coloursspring from the page. The instructions maybe brief and sometimes sketchy, and werenot written in the formulaic style that isconsidered appropriate today, but they donot let you down. She assumes her readersare intelligent, curious and able to think forthemselves. Her writing is clear andauthoritative; she tells you the correct wayto make a risotto or a pilaf, ossi buchi orboeuf à la bourguignonne. She wrote asshe cooked: with respect for tradition andprovenance, with passion and knowledge.

There is a directness and warmth in herwriting, and unfailing integrity. Elizabethhad high standards and expected them ofothers. She detested fuss and anythingpretentious or sham. She spoke out aboutthe poor quality of many ‘factory’ foods,

about bad restaurants, and condemnedwriters who published recipes fortravesties of traditional dishes from trifle topizza and quiche.

On both sides of the Atlantic, many chefstook up the demand for good qualityingredients and turned to her recipes. Theycontinue to acknowledge the debt they oweto Elizabeth David. Many people who do notknow her name or her writing have beenaffected by her influence on chefs andother food writers. Elizabeth was not apublic figure, and did not want to be. Shechose writing as her means ofcommunicating, and this she did withelegance, erudition, wit and humour. Sheremains an essential presence in the foodworld; her writing made it possible fortoday’s celebrity chefs and televisionsupercooks to find a receptive audience.

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> flavour elizabeth david

BARBADOS BAKED AND GLAZED GAMMONServe this gammon hot with creamed spinach and jacket potatoes or a purée of red lentils, or coldwith a salad of cubed honeydew melon seasoned with lemon juice and a pinch of powdered ginger.

Soak a 2–2.5-kg/4–5-lb piece of middle legfor a minimum of twenty-four hours, andpreferably for thirty-six, in cold water tocover (and also keep a cloth or dish over thebasin). Change the water two or threetimes. When the time comes to cook thegammon, wrap it in two sheets of aluminumcooking foil, twisting the edges together sothat the joint is completely enclosed. Standthis parcel on a grid placed in a baking tin.Half fill the tin with water – the steamcoming from it during cooking helps to keepthe gammon moist.

Place low down in a very moderate oven, at160°C/gas 3, and allow approximately 45minutes per pound (500g). The onlyattention you have to give it is simply to turn

the parcel over at half-time.

Remove from the oven, leave for about 40minutes, then unwrap the foil, and peel offthe rind – this is very easily done while thegammon is still hot – and score the fat indiamond shapes. Replace the gammon inthe rinsed-out baking tin.

Have ready the following mixture: 2 heapedtablespoons of soft brown sugar, 1 teaspoonof Dijon mustard and 4 tablespoons of milk,all stirred together. Pour this mixture overthe gammon, pressing some of it well downinto the fat. If you feel you must, stud the fatwith whole cloves. Place the tin near the topof the oven – still at the same temperature –and cook the gammon for another 20 to 35

minutes, basting frequently with the milkand sugar mixture, which will eventuallyturn into a beautiful dark golden shiningglaze.

The sugar, mustard and milk-glaze mixtureis by far the most effective, as well as thecheapest and most simple, of any I haveever tried. There really is no need forfanciful additions of rum, orange juice orpineapple chunks. Whether you keep yourcooked gammon or bacon in a refrigeratoror a larder, do keep it wrapped in cleangreaseproof paper, constantly renewed. Inthis way it will keep sweet and moist downto the last slice.

Enough for eight to ten people.

‘At Elizabeth David’s Table’ is available at all good bookshops. Published by Michael Joseph. RRP £25

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> flavour cookery schools

COOKERYSCHOOLS

With the children settled back into the school routine, there’s no better time to learn some new skills of your own, starting with a cookery course that will benefit you and the whole family!

VegetarianCookery School

A vegetarian Christma

Since 2001 the Vegetarian CookerySchool in Bath has been running anexciting and varied selection of coursesfor mixed abilities from completebeginner to the more accomplishedcook. Every course provides inspirationand ideas that are easily achievable inyour own kitchen. Each day course hasa maximum of 16 people with an aimto cook 10 different dishes each day.

If you’re feeling stuck for vegetarianideas this Christmas or just fancysomething a little different from theusual, then the Vegetarian CookerySchool is the perfect choice. EachChristmas, the school comes up with acompletely new menu for you to re-create over the festive period. Try yourhand at a selection of nibbles, maindishes and puddings. Traditionaldishes like the nut and seed roast withall the trimmings or borlotti bean andchestnut stew can all be sampled.More indulgent recipes such as agooey chocolate pudding with brandiedcherries, orange tuilles and vanillacrème anglaise are another success!After plenty of tips on how to makeyour day as stress free as possible, youcan relax with a Christmas lunch and aglass of organic Cava at the end of theday.

T: 01225 427938 W: www.vegetariancookeryschool.com

Louise Walker

Aga at Christmas

Author and Aga enthusiast LouiseWalker has a background in teachingas well as working as a homeeconomist and food stylist in the foodindustry. She has been demonstratingon Aga cookers for 20 years, mainly inAga showrooms up and down thecountry. For the last 10 years Louisehas run classes at home to helphundreds of customers get the mostfrom their Aga. Most of the classes aredemonstration days but hands-on daysare becoming more popular. Allcourses are run in Louise’s modernkitchen featuring a four-oven Aga. As the groups are small it’s easy to askquestions and discuss all that is goingon.

Many people worry about cooking atraditional Christmas lunch for familyand friends but thanks to Louise’s‘traditional Christmas lunch’ course,you needn’t. Everything will beexplained from how to plan andprepare the perfect dinner topresentation on the table, making yourday restful and fun. This day is plannedaround the Aga but for those with aconventional cooker there will still belots of other hints and tips on offer.

All courses are £95 for the day

T: 01225 442861W: www.louise-walker.co.uk

The Devilled EggKitchen Academy

Fine dining made easy

The Devilled Egg Kitchen Academy isall about fine dining in the home.Bespoke masterclasses with residentchef Barbora Stiess aim to unlock thesecrets of the professional kitchen,giving aspirants the skills, techniquesand knowledge to surpass restaurantcooking at home. Of course, most of uswill not be awarded Michelin Ssarssimply after a few lessons, but TheDevilled Egg’s small-scale approach(one-to-one or small groups of friends)allows for intensive and personalisedlearning. Indeed, you may be surprisedat the amount of clever tricks andconfidence you can round up in asingle evening.

Set courses include coaching on diversesubjects, from the perfect panacotta tothe flawlessly filleted fish and even thequest for the World’s greatest scrambledegg. Equally, those with specificgastronomic curiosities (or frustrations)may order bespoke courses designedentirely for themselves – individuals andgroups welcome.

Wine, beer and spirit tastings oftenform a part of the course, but are alsooffered separately and for largergroups as well. With Halloween andChristmas on the way, keep an eye outfor special seasonal classes!

T: 07500 009045W: www.thedevilledegg.com

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Julia’s Kitchen Perfect private parties

Julia’s Kitchen as seen in the nationaland regional press offers unique andaffordable hands-on tuition for adultsand children in a relaxed, beautiful andwell-equipped working home. Julia’skitchen offers the perfect alternativeday out for you and your friends. For afabulous hen do, stag do, a specialbirthday, work event or ‘just because’then book today for a relaxed, sociableand fun get together. You’ll bewelcomed with a drink and somethingdelicious to eat. With sleeves rolled up,you and your group will learn new skillsand try wonderful dishes that you maynot have had the confidence to trybefore.

Whether you book as an individual orcome as a group, the classes arepersonal and intimate, ensuring youget as much from the tuition aspossible. With so many courses tochoose from such as fabulouscupcakes, Thai cuisine, fab puds andmodern vegetarian, you’ll be sharingyour expertise with others in no time.

Courses start from £35 to £60.

T: 01202 252481W: www.therealfoodcookeryschool.co.uk

Cooking with Rosie

Cook for a living

Rosie Davies's four-week intensivecookery course is the perfect option forthose who want to make a living fromcooking. Many students come from theyachting and skiing industries, but allkeen cooks are very welcome whatevertheir experience. Rosie combinespractically-based teaching of culinarytechniques and methods with tried andtested advice, tips and tricks honedfrom over 25 years of experience as aprofessional cook and teacher.

With classes containing a maximum ofjust five students, there is ampleopportunity for one-to-one tuition, aswell as the flexibility to focus onparticular interests or questions youmight have along the way. Theatmosphere is relaxed, informal andfun with all the comforts of home.Courses are held in Rosie’s home inNunney, a beautifully converted 200year old watermill – the perfect basefor inspiration and comfort.Accommodation is provided on site aspart of the course fee.

Course details: A four week, intensiveresidential course including tuitionMonday–Friday and examination forLevel 1 Award in Food Safety andCatering costs £3,350.

T: 01373 836210 W: www.rosiedavies.co.uk

The FoodworksCookery School

Become an artesian bread maker

Foodworks Cookery School based justoutside Cheltenham, has hitGloucestershire by storm with its state-of-the-art kitchen and contemporaryglass viewing balcony. Housed inside isa team of top chefs from around thecountry who run courses from beautifulbread making to adventurous gamecooking. Foodworks inspires everyonefrom beginners to experienced cooksand is passionate about local, freshand seasonal ingredients. The small,intimate and hands on classes areprofessional, friendly and informal,ensuring a rewarding and fun day.

When internationally renowned masterbaker Maurice Chaplais isn’t busytraveling the world teaching Europeanbread making, he can be found atFoodworks teaching his invaluableskills to others. Your course includescoffee in the morning, a buffet lunchwith a glass of wine and a bag full ofyour own delicious breads to takehome. Visit online for Halloween andChristmas courses.

Course details: Bread with MauriceChaplais course £105. Other coursesvary from £45- £125

Offer: Book a full day course before theend of October and receive £20 offyour first booking!

T: 01242 870538W: www.foodworkscookeryschool.co.uk


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Ringmore HouseAga Cookery

Winter entertaining

Helen Scull is an experienced Aga userand innovative cook, runningentertaining in style courses at herhome for small groups of enthusiasticfoodies who want to develop skills andalso understand the huge facility anAga offers. The courses are designedwith instructions for all types of cooker,so friends can enjoy and learn from thedemonstrations.

Winter entertaining courses inNovember and December are lookingat sophisticated comfort food andhealthy ideas for the cold seasonincluding home made preserves,warming puddings and cakes so youcan prepare ahead ideas forentertaining family and friends withease. England comes in to its own forwinter vegetables, local meats andgame, and an abundance of fresh fish.These courses are designed to makethe most of autumn and winterentertaining with plenty of ideas to fillthe fridge and freezer! Based on theedge of the River Teign in Shaldon,Ringmore House also offers luxuriousaccommodation in beautiful bedrooms.

Gift vouchers available.

T: 01626 873323W: www.ringmorehouse.co.uk

Daylesford

Back to organic

Learn how to cook with the bestseasonal farm produce at Daylesford’sCookery School.

The Cookery School is equipped withstate-of-the-art facilities andsurrounded by acres of working landand countryside, the perfect setting toexperience imaginative courses to suitall levels. Whether you have never feltconfident in charge of a saucepanbefore, or you are an enthusiasticamateur cook who has longed to takeyour skills to a new level, under theguidance of Vladimir Niza you’ll quicklybecome a confident, organic cook.

Pull your wellies on and head out intothe market garden to harvest youringredients, become inspired byVladimir’s demonstrations and enjoyplenty of hands-on experience andtasting during the day.

To ensure you cook the best Christmasfeast yet why not attend one of thededicated Christmas cookery courses?Learn to roast the turkey to perfection,cook the crispiest and fluffiest roastpotatoes, steam a fruity moistChristmas pudding and mostimportantly, enjoy the special day withas little stress as possible.

T: 01608 731 700 W: www.daylesfordorganic.com

Padstow Seafood School

Cooking with fish demystified

Rick Stein’s vision for Padstow SeafoodSchool was to run a place where heenjoyed cooking, a place where thewhole morning would revolve aroundlunch. These lunches are designed tocover every aspect of seafood cookery.Almost without realising it, you will coverit all from filleting a plaice to stir-fryingsquid, braising brill to steaming sea bass.

Courses at Padstow Seafood School offera balance of hands-on cooking and chefdemonstrations led by head chef MarkPuckey. Each morning is spent cooking,then at lunchtime, you’ll enjoy the fruitsof your labour with your fellow students.Padstow Seafood School offers 1, 2 and4 day cookery courses, residential andnon-residential. Courses cover everythingfrom Italian, French and Thai fishcookery, to classic seafood dishes,summer cooking, friends for dinner andeven children’s fish cookery. There arealso courses which specialise in cookingrecipes from Rick Stein’s BBC TV series’Mediterranean Escapes, French Odysseyand Far Eastern Odyssey. A full list ofcourses and our course calendar can befound on the website.

Prices start from £185 for a one-daycookery course.

T: 01841 532700W: www.rickstein.com

COOKERY SCHOOLS


The Bristol KitchenCompany

Beautiful furnituredesigned to suit you needs...

At The Bristol Kitchen Companywe take pride in our ability to

provide a personal design andfurniture making service using the

latest technology. We offerbespoke kitchens at a competitive

price but we never cut corners.Every kitchen, and all of the

furniture we make, is designedspecifically and purpose built

from scratch. With ourunsurpassed attention to detailand quality of workmanship we

are able to manage all aspects ofthe project and provide detailed

service drawings andspecifications.

The Bristol Kitchen Company

T: 0117 914 0340 W: www.thebristolkitchencompany.co.uk E: [email protected]

Fine bespoke furniture

BristolKitchensAd:P.52 5/10/10 23:25 Page 1

Welcome to Stanton House Hotel where you can enjoy great food and relax with friends, no cooking,no washing-up, just a stress-free celebration.

Celebrate Christmas at Stanton House Hotel

The Avenue, Stanton Fitzwarren, Swindon SN6 7SD Tel: 0870 084 1388 Fax: 01793 861857 email: [email protected]

www . s t a n t onhou s e . c o . u k

• Christmas Parties• Sunday Lunch• Mince Pies & Mulled Wine• Christmas Day• Seasonal Lunches• All you can eat buffets

Also, special festive accommodationrates Following your festive celebration, why not leave the carand stay the night.

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> flavour reader review

It’s mid September, and whoever left themuggy hot tap running remembers it’salmost autumn and sends a solvent wind tostir the Gloucester Road. Soon leaves willdry and curl like shed reptilian skins;thoughts turn to lit doorways, red wines,warmth of the pack. So, where better tobegin the indoor season than with an invite-only literary event hosted by the elegantTart Café?

The event saw the Bristol book-launch ofFrances Kay’s debut novel, Micka.Humorous yet unflinching, the book followsthe stories of two young boys in a Northerntown, whose thoughts and lives irreversiblyconverge. The potency of Kay’s contrastingmonologues, spoken by her novel’s twoprotagonists Laurie and Micka, becameclear as compelling extracts were readfrom the book.

The guest-list comprised a selection ofBristol’s writers, booksellers, editors andword-hungry. Literal appetites were alsocatered for with canapés of oven-glazedpizzete, cheese scones with baba ganoush,liver pâté coiffures and brownies the texture

of newly packed soil sownwith fat sultanas.

Falling somewhere between a Frenchpatisserie and an English tearoom, TartCafé was a fitting venue of choice for suchan event. To my delight any cake can bebaked to order and the delicious pastryshown off in the chilled cabinet can betaken home and masked as one’s own. Tartalso offers a beautifully equipped food storeto cater for those who enjoy homemadegranola, jam, chutney and meringue.

Open for breakfast, lunch and afternoontea, Tart offers the ideal setting for whilingaway the afternoon with a sweet treat and agood book.

Tart Café16 The PromenadeGloucester RoadBristolBS7 8AE

01179 247628www.lovelytart.com

TART CAFÉBY ROWAN EVANS, BRISTOL

Tell us about your favourite place to eatby writing to us at the usual address oremailing [email protected] We’ll even give you one year’s free subscription for your troubles!

READERREVIEW

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Three to four thousand years ago, theOlmecs are the first known people touse cacao which grew wild in CentralAmerica - followed by other peoples likethe Maya and then the Aztecs from the10th century AD to the 1520s. At thistime, and for many years afterwards,chocolate was purely a drink. They allknew that a cup of 'XOCO - ATL'(meaning 'bitter water') was great forfatigue and it was supposed tostimulate brain power. Chocolate wasalways drunk, and not eaten untilrelatively recently in the middle of thelast century.

In 1502, Christopher Columbus landedon the island of Guanaja off coast ofHonduras, on his 4th and final voyageto 'discover India'. However, 1519 wasprobably the most crucial moment inthe history of chocolate when HernanCortes - Spanish explorer and one ofColumbus' ambassadors - met

flamboyant emperor Montezuma inTenochtitlan, the capital of the AztecEmpire. Montezuma's name has becomeimmortalised for the vast quantities offoaming 'xoco latl' he used to drinkbefore visiting his harem of wives, sobegins the marriage of chocolate andamorous pursuits.

Cortes took cocoa 'home' to the Spanishcourt in 1527. The Spanish kept itsecret for over a century - taxing it sohighly that, like the ancient Mexicans,only the rich can afford it. In 1615,chocolate crossed to the French courtthrough the marriage of Anne ofAustria, daughter of Philip II of Spain,to Louis X111. Based on its perceivedmedicinal properties the use ofchocolate - still as a drink - is spread bymissionaries across Central and SouthAmerica and across Europe.

It was during the 18th and 19th

century that chocolate began its long,slow journey from a gritty, fatty drinkinto the refined product we know today,with chocolate starting to appear aseating chocolate in the form of pastillesand bars. The Swiss were veryinfluential in the development ofchocolate. Rodolphe Lindt discoveredconching by accident when an assistantleft the machine on all night! AnotherSwiss, Daniel Peter discovered a way ofmixing milk with chocolate to createthe first milk chocolate in 1875 usingcondensed milk manufactured by hisfriend Henri Nestlé.

In the UK, the three great Quakers ofthe time - George Cadbury, JosephRowntree and Joseph Storrs Fry -created an immensely wealthy industryproducing cocoa and drinkingchocolate as an alternative to the demonalcohol. They made an enormouscontribution to the quality of chocolateand cocoa - cutting out adulterationwhich was rife in Victorian times, at thesame time revolutionising workingconditions - not only of their ownfactories but also within thecommunity. Bournville was created byCadbury's as a utopia for its chocolatefactory workers. Likewise, Rowntreeand Fry also felt it essential to rewardtheir workers with the best possibleliving and working conditions. Thatway, not only did they fulfil their truephilanthropic ethos, but this was alsogood for business! They were indeed,significant social benefactors.

We now eat on average just under 7 ozper person per week. The confectioneryindustry is worth over £5 billion in UKalone of which chocolate is £3.5 billion.

This month sees the annual celebration of NationalChocolate Week (11-17 October), a well-loved treat thatdates back thousands of years...

le monde du

chocolat

How to recognisegood chocolate:

* Flawless appearance with an evencolour

* A nice deep aroma

* A clean snap when breaking a bar

* A great flavour of more than justchocolate. You may be able to detectfruit, spices and other notes.

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> flavour le monde du chocolat

My journey really began in February2002 after working for five years withJoan Roca at the restaurant El Cellerde Can Roca. It was at this time that Iwas introduced to the legendary Chuaococoa bean exclusively produced byAmedei. I was beginning to questionthings, thinking outside the box andpicking apart how things were made. I was flown over to Italy to be shownhow Amedei produced its chocolate. I

began to re-think everything I had beentaught, and to re-write all of myrecipes.

Chocolate has an ego; it doesn’t likeanything to be added to it. So I beganexperimenting and replaced the creamand milk with water. The productdemands this method, it brings it backto its true state – how chocolate shouldtaste. We were the first business to start

doing this, showing people thatchocolate is actually refreshing and fullof flavour.

It took eight years to re-write recipesfrom mousses, jellies and gratins.Doing this enabled me to understandand respect the products better,understanding the many levels thatresult in a quality product. Just like afine complex wine, there are so manystages before you reach perfection.

My wife Anna and I started by sellingto wholesale and restaurants, movinginto retail with a shop in NottingHill. We now have a base in TunbridgeWells and have just launched intoSelfridges, Libertines and Fortnum &Mason’s with an exclusive Christmascollection. I also head tutored tastingsessions and workshops as well assupporting other artisan producerssuch as Lahoo Tea.

We work very closely with Valrhonachocolate. An excellent qualitychocolate with an accessible price,Valrhona has been the benchmark forgreat chocolate for the last 30 years. We are also open to using other smallerchocolate companies, buying directlyfrom source. Different regions havedifferent flavours and characters. Thereisn’t one chocolate that is consideredthe most superior; it is about whomakes it and who cares for it. That’s thekey to appreciating diversity.

For me food is a means ofcommunication. This chocolate is aboutunderstanding and educating others. I have something to say and I want tosay it through my chocolates.

Must try…flavour changersThese chocolates are a truly unique experience. Small, round truffles thatexplode in your mouth and change flavour as you eat them. A realshowstopper and a great personal touch for wedding favours. One flavourrepresents the bride, the other represents the groom, creating a marriage inthe mouth.

With 25 years working as a pastry chef for the most talented chefsacross the globe in various five-star restaurants, Damian Allsop canadd to his list of achievements instigator of a mini-revolution inthe chocolate world. We find out more about his latest project anda recipe that he has kept under wraps until now…

damianallsop

FOCUS ON...



Who we are…I started my business after my cateringcompany, Hedgehog Pie, was asked tocook a dinner for The Queen and thisinvolved making handmade chocolatecups for the pudding. Each one had tobe perfectly shiny and this in turngives the cups a wonderful snap. Toachieve this, the ‘temper’ of thechocolate had to be perfect and Ibrushed up on my tempering skillswith a chocolatier who also taught mehow to make handmade chocolates.Eureka, a passion and obsession withchocolate was born! Therefore, it wasbecause of Her Majesty The Queen thatI was inspired originally to start TheChocolate Tart, to share my knowledgeand skills with the general public!

How we’ll be celebrating…Get a group of friends together or comeon your own (check dates and times onwebsite) to a chocolate workshop andwe will do a mini tutored tasting at theend on request throughout October.Discover all about the best chocolate in

the world ‘Amedei’ from Italy. We stockchocolate buttons and chocolate spreadfor grown-ups created by CeciliaTessieri of Amedei for that perfectchocolate treat – once you have eatenyour own creations of course!

T: 01934 876881 W: www.thechocolatetart.co.uk

The Chocolate tart

Who we are…Nestled in amongst the fabulousboutiques, gift shops and restaurantsof Clevedon’s Hill Road, you will findIndulgence, a gorgeous shop crammedfull of delicious treats to tantalise yourtaste buds. Established in 2001, wespecialise in luxurious chocolates andconfectionery. Whole cherries soaked inbrandy and enrobed in dark chocolatevie for attention alongside favouritessuch as smooth Champagne truffles,nutty marzipans, rich pralines andgooey caramels.

How we’ll be celebrating…For a chance to savour some of ourfavourite sweet treats then be sure toattend the next tasting day atIndulgence on Saturday 20thNovember.

T: 01275 878 978 W: www.indulgencechocolates.co.uk

indulgence

Reader offerBuy two 3-hour classic workshopvouchers for £130 saving £10,valid until end of Nov 2010.(Quote FLAV10).

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Our Chocolate TartA sweet pastry case, blind baked750g chocolate (the best you canafford) 700ml double cream50g butterRaspberry coulis.

Heat your cream to scalding. Meltthe chocolate for one minute inthe microwave and stir, and thenmelt for 30 seconds at a time untiltwo thirds is melted and the restis solid. Add the cream in fourparts whisking into the chocolateuntil it becomes shiny andelasticated in texture. Whisk inthe butter in small pea-sizedamounts, and then pour into thepastry case. Leave at roomtemperature to set before servingwith the coulis.


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Who we are…Tucked away from the hustle and bustleof Bristol’s busy city centre sits ascrumptious little chocolate shop, A Barof Chocolate. Our chocolate heaven in StNicholas Market is the perfect place todiscover the finest quality chocolateavailable in Bristol. From vegan and

gluten free to delicious Belgiantruffles and Italian sipping chocolate,this is the perfect spot for a moment ofsheer indulgence. Pop in and discoverthe German chocolate Hachez, achocolate that has been blended forthree days giving an irresistibly, silkysmooth taste.

How we’ll be celebrating…We have our own brand new range ofdelicious handmade chocolates, madefrom the finest Belgian cocoa. Thebutterscotch, fudge and rose milkflavours are flying through the door, aswell as our new chilled chocolatemousse.

T: 01179 279918W: www.abarof.co.uk

Who we are…We specialise in creating original,innovative and delicious handmadechocolates. We do not follow the crowdbut put in place fun designs, originalflavours and the very best ingredients.We wouldn’t use anything less than thebest quality chocolate available andenjoy chocolate from different originsas each place has a distinctive flavour.

Our latest creation, a 70% cocoasolid firecracker bar made fromEcuadorian chocolate and

infused with ancho chilliesand popping candy isone example of howwe like to utilise theingredients out there.

How we’ll becelebrating…We can’t think of abetter way tocelebrate than withour raspberry andbalsamic truffleswhich won two stars

in the Great Taste Awards. Thesetruffles are a carefully balanced blendof dark chocolate, fresh raspberry,cream and a dash of balsamic vinegar.The crunch of the dark shell gives wayto a smooth ganache with a zingy,fruity flavour that is enhanced by thesweet acidity of the balsamic.

T: 01749 831330 W: www.jameschocolates.co.uk

a bar of Chocolate

james chocolates

competitionJames is giving away to onelucky reader a selection of JamesChocolates including thefirecracker bar, raspberry &balsamic truffles and otheraward-winning chocolates worthover £50. To enter [email protected] or write to us at the usualaddress


Who we are…We create fabulous stiletto shoes andhandbags out of the finest Belgianchocolate. Beautifully designed,packaged, and utterly delicious – ourunique shoes have been making theirfootprints across the national media aswell as in many loyal customers homes.Shop opening end of October.

How we’ll be celebrating…Stylish, witty and utterly delicious, wecouldn’t help but launch a new summercollection this year, which are right athome with our old favourites. Dark,milk, white or orange chocolate, ChocChic shoes and bags are beautifullypackaged and can be personallycustomised for the person receiving it,even filling them with Champagneready to be drunk later! We also offerworkshops so you can make your own!

T: 0117 9277693W: www.cliftoncakes.co.uk

clifton cakes

Who we are…Cocoa Bee is a brand new web basedchocolate and gift company. Our funand funky gifts are teamed up withdelicious novelty chocolates that reflectthe style of the present and thenwonderfully presented in hampers andgift bags. All Cocoa Bee combinationsare enthusiastically designed fromscratch using gifts and chocolatessourced from the UK and beyond toprovide unique and memorablydifferent hampers and gift bags.

How we’ll be celebrating…With the launch of the Freddy the FrogDoorstop! Freddy comes complete witha trio of exclusively produced milk andwhite chocolate spotted frogs. We canthink of nothing better but to give 5lucky flavour readers the chance towin one of Cocoa Bees deliciousselection of fine English chocolates.

W: www.cocoa-bee.co.uk

cocoa bee

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Simply answer the followingquestion: How many chocolate frogscome with Freddy the Frog?

Send your answer in [email protected] write to the usual address. Good luck!

for your chance to win:

Reader offerReceive 10% off any order over£25 by the end of October.


minerva

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Who we are…You can find us in the Abbey ChurchYard, a stones throw away from theRoman Baths. We offer a dazzlingselection of truffles, pralines, ganachesand bonbons. Step into Minerva andyou would feel like you have steppedinto a chocolaterie in France withelegant marble counters and a largechocolate machine. The intoxicatingaroma of dark chocolate cocoa will fillyou with inspiration when it comes topicking one of our unique and delicioushandmade chocolates.

Make a voyage of discovery in theworld of chocolate making. Book a

Chocolate Initiation Workshop atMinerva!

How we’ll be celebrating…We have a rather special chocolate onoffer at the moment; Valrhona’sNyangbo. A beautiful dark chocolatefrom Ghana. This piece of utterindulgence is unlike anythingexperienced before in the chocolateworld; a step away from bitterness,smooth and sumptuous with a roastedalmond infusion.

T: 01225 464999W: www.bathchocolatemuseum.com

The deliciouslyuncomplicated truffle

Ingredients0.5 litre of whipping cream 1kg of dark chocolate of yourchoice (e.g. Valrhona’s Guanara70% cocoa solid)Good quality cocoa powder.

Equipment3 litre capacity saucepan3 litre capacity bowlspatulawhiskpiping bag with large nozzle large tray with a silicone mat or 2 layers of baking paper.

Pour the cream into the saucepanand bring it to the boil. Crunchup all the chocolate with a bigknife and fill the bowl with it. Pour the hot cream over thechocolate stirring it with thespatula until it has melted.Whisk this mixture until it is asmooth and very shiny emulsionwith a perfect texture.When it has cooled move it gentlywith the spatula and pour it intothe piping bag.Spread a thick and even layer ofcocoa over the silicone mat (or thebaking paper) in the tray.When the ganache in the pipingbag is sufficiently firm, squeezegently out of the nozzle in longparallel rows and cut immediatelyin segments roughly 3 cms long.Agitate the tray so that the cocoapowder goes over the segments tocoat them evenly.Shake off the excess cocoa powderand store in a cool place(preferably a cool pantry but notthe refrigerator).


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Who we are…We are proud to be one of the oldestBritish Confectionery Companies in theUK, with the reputation all over theworld as the creator of delicious andluxurious chocolates. From humblebeginnings in a Teddington kitchen,the brand has gone from strength tostrength and we are now a householdname when people need the perfectparty or dinner table treat.

How we’ll be celebrating…We are very excited about celebratingeveryone’s favourite treat this month sowe are giving one lucky flavour readerthe chance to win one of ourscrumptious hampers, jam packed withour favourite chocolates.

T: 0117 937 1200W: www.elizabethshaw.co.uk

elizabeth shaw

Included in this luxurious prize isHarvey’s Bristol Cream Liquers,Dark Mint Crisp Chocolates andsome rather indulgent Amarettoflutes. Emailcompetitions@flavourmagazineor write to the usual address. Good luck!

competition

Famed for his exquisite chocolates and ingenious flavourcombinations, Paul A. Young shares his chocolate-makingsecrets for the first time.

Discover why Equadorian chocolate lends itself beautifullyto flavours such as marmalade, pink peppercorns andsaffron, while Venezuelan chocolate tastes amazing whenpaired with cinnamon, chilli or lavender. Once youunderstand how to combine chocolate with other flavours,you can let your imagination run wild and experimentwith your own tongue-dazzling combinations.

You’ll find recipes for Paul’s famous hot chocolate, cakes,cookies, desserts and even savoury dishes – a sure talkingpoint at any dinner party. Take your pick from wildstrawberry and pink peppercorn truffles, sea-saltedcaramel tart and the ultimate chocolate Martini. TheAlchemy chapter is for the more adventurous cook, withwild and wonderful recipes such as Paul’s Venezuelanchocolate chilli chicken, sweet chocolate pesto, and even ahoney-cured bacon, stilton and chocolate sandwich –which Paul swears by as a hangover cure! Paul’senthusiasm for chocolate is irresistible and his stunning,easy-to-follow recipes are a must for any chocolate lover.

Adventures with Chocolate by Paul A. Young is publishedby Kyle Cathie. RRP £17.99

adventures with chocolate

le M A Z O T

Le Mazot at Whatley Manor Easton Grey Malmesbury Wiltshire SN16 0RBT 01666 822 888 E [email protected]

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We start in Burgundy, home to the world’smost famous Chardonnays and Pinot Noir.One of the most famous wine producers ofBurgundy is Louis Jadot, with over 150wines in their portfolio (no that’s not atypo!). What Jadot don’t know aboutBurgundy isn’t worth knowing.

Macon Villages Domaine de la GrangeMagnien Louis Jadot is a great introductionfor anyone to the wines of this region – andalso great to continue with. Crisp andrefreshing yet still deliciously fruity, thiswine is great for a light-styledlunchtime option or for simplyenjoying alone. Try it at the Albionin Clifton, Bristol, a beautifullydecorated gastro pub tuckedaway in the corner of the village.Equally dedicated to relaxedpub space as to food, theMacon Villages is the perfectwine to enjoy here. Try it withthe oysters, mussels – andperhaps even the crab andchilli linguine. Look out for the2009 vintage hitting ourglasses in a few months’ time. www.thealbionclifton.co.uk

Bourgogne Chardonnay Covent desJacobins, Louis Jadot is a serious foodwine. Made from the same grape as theMacon Villages, it’s the partial oak ageinghere that turns this into a powerful, fullbodied wine. This enables it to stand up tomuch heavier dishes and at the Hare andHounds Country House Hotel in Tetbury,you’ll find some great options. Try with theconfit of smoked salmon or ham hock andfoie gras terrine – and look out for creamysauces and roast chicken as winter drawsnearer. www.cotswold-inns-hotels.co.uk

When people think of Beaujolaisthey are often reminded of the‘Beaujolais Nouveau’ winesreleased (early on) in theNovember of the same year ofharvest each year. Forget theBeaujolais run and Noveau andwelcome the return to atraditional style of wine,pioneered by Louis Jadot.Perfect for winter fayre, morepowerful, robust with greatelegance and longevity. TheMoulin Vent is often seen asthe Queen of Beaujolais having

fruitful harvestWine columnist Clare Morris has over 10 years’ experience in the drinks industry,consulting with hotels, restaurants, pubs and bars across the UK. She is currentlystudying for a Diploma at the WSET London Wine and Spirit School.

‘Season of mists and mellowfruitfulness!’ is Keat’s most famous linein Ode to Autumn. He could easily betalking about the European wineharvest, usually kick-started at thebeginning of September and lastingthroughout October. Morning mists inBordeaux magically transform ordinarywhite wines into the internationallyrenowned luscious Sauternes dessertwines. Winegrowers across the regionpray for the powerful afternoon sun tolast a few more weeks and fully ripentheir grapes. Everywhere in the wineregions of Europe extra temporary staffare taken on, ready for the mostimportant task of the year.

With the amount of food readily availableto us throughout the year in oursupermarkets, it’s easy to forget thesignificance of the autumn harvest.Historically this time of year would havebeen all-consuming. Our schoolholidays still reflect the importance ofthis season, as the children would havebeen pulled out of school to help bringin the crops ready for the winter ahead.In the land of wine, despite hugeadvances in technology, this oldfashioned world still exists. It’s a raceagainst time to avoid bad weather andthe over-ripening of grapes.

So this month let’s raise a toast to thewine growers of Europe – throughoutFrance, Spain, Italy and Germany andmany other smaller wine regionsbesides. The vintage of 2009 is beingheralded as one of the greatest vintagesof the last 100 years (with price tags tomatch!) and over the coming months wewill start to hear whether 2010 isanywhere near comparable. In themeantime, why not sit back with one ofthese fantastic European wines and bethankful you’re not on grape pickingduty…

> flavour fruitful harvest

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> flavour fruitful harvest

a softer more welcoming side to this fullbodied, autumnally fruity wine. Great toenjoy after a walk in the autumn leavesaround Tetbury, finishing up at the CalcotManor. Match with roasted quail, apple andpear salad and caramelised walnuts, orsalmon and tuna fish cakes with Asian slawand sautéed potatoes. Surely that’s enoughto get you walking faster!www.calcotmanor.co.uk

Beaune 1er Cru les Theurons DomaineLouis Jadot 2002 is an amazing chance tosee what people mean when talking about agood vintage and mature wine. Louis Jadotwines have great fruit, tannin and acidbalance which enables them to live forlonger, allowing all the components torelax, integrate and develop into a beautifulglass of wine. Try it at the Square Kitchen inBristol, a ‘private members club of thedefiantly unstuffy’. Treat yourself to theblade of beef with watercress and parsleyrisotto, or, if the accompanying snails inbutter are too much, go for the roast rumpof lamb instead. www.thesquareclub.com

Next we move slightly further Southto the Rhône Valley, home toanother great wine producer –Robert Skalli – celebrating their90th anniversary this year as afamily owned company and in2009 winning ‘red winemaker ofthe year’ at the InternationalWine Challenge. It’s easy to seewhy when you taste their wines– let’s look at two verydifferent, but equally delicious,examples:

Robert Skalli Reserve – PinotNoir – Ile de Beauté is rich,intense and spicy. This unique

vineyard on the East coast of Corsica isnestled between the ocean and the snow-capped mountains, which creates fantasticfresh fruit flavours in the wine. A perfectmatch for weighty pasta dishes, and in thewonderful setting of Morgan’s Bar andBrasserie in Plymouth you will find anabundance of these. The chilli bakedaubergine, scorched tomato and pepperpenne would be ideal here – and, dare I sayit, a fantastic traditional beef lasagne. Don’tbe fooled into thinking that top quality winessuch as these shouldn’t be paired withsome heavenly comfort food! www.morgansbrasserie.co.uk

Robert Skalli’s flagship wine –Skalli Grand Vin du Rhône -Chateauneuf du Pape 2007 –showcases the skill of thewinemakers even more. Made inthe same robust, full bodiedstyle as the Beaune 1er Cru,we have very different flavoursfrom the blend of Grenacheand Syrah with five other grapevarieties blended in. One mythof the wine world is that singlevarietal wines are betterquality than blends. But whenyou consider that the top winesof Bordeaux and the Rhône Valley are nearlyalways blends, you can see just how untruethat is. This wine longs for some seriouslyrobust food to show just how good it is, andat the lovely Mill Race village pub in Ross onWye, you’ll find just that – try the venisonburger with red cabbage pickle or the gamepie and I’m sure you’ll agree. www.millrace.info

Moving South to Italy, where the 2010vintage is already being talked aboutpositively for both quantity and quality, youwill find some fantastic indigenous grape

varieties that can’t be found anywhere elsein the world. The range of flavour profiles ishuge – make sure you experimentwherever possible.

One classic Italian growing area well knownacross the UK is Soave. Light and dry butlow acidity makes this an easy drinking,refreshing option. Another great lunchtimechoice like the Macon Villages, is Bolla’sSoave Classico DOC 2009 which is made inthe oldest and most ‘classic’ zone for Soaveproduction tucked away in the North Eastprovince of Veneto. This is a great foodpairing for some very simple, well executedclassics – which is just what you’ll find atthe Elephant pub in Bristol. Chicken Caesarsalad, our British favourite fish and chips oreven a fish finger sandwich would be wellsuited here. www.theelephantbristol.co.uk

Our last toast to the harvest this month isanother Italian white – from a good fewhours away just South of Rome. Frascati isanother delicate, crisp dry white, with theextra heat from the sun and volcanic soil inthis region bringing out a little more fruitflavour and floral aromas. Perhaps topicallycalled ‘the wine of popes and of thepeople’ – because it is said that inthe papal elections of the 17thcentury, Frascati spouted from thefountains and lions of the capital.Fontana Candida FrascatiSuperiore DOC, sadly, does notflow from many fountains, but youcan enjoy a bottle at Mama Mia’sItalian restaurant in Hook,Hampshire. Try an antipastipairing with the classic InsalataCaprese, or the delicious AvocadoMama Mia with baby prawns andsmoked salmon. www.mamamiarestaurant.co.uk

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> flavour clavelshay barn

Just last year, Michael Steinberger bravelypenned a critique on the leaders of thegastronomic world. His book, entitled “AuRevoir to All That: The Rise and Fall ofFrench Cuisine” discusses numerousfactors that have contributed to the declineof French food culture. At the top, the crisisof creativity in the cloistered world ofMichelin, at the bottom, the seeminglyunstoppable rise of McDonald's.

Yet somewhere in the middle lies perhapsthe country’s most interesting culinaryaffliction and one as a former resident I feelbest placed to comment on: thedeterioration of the small town bistro. Goneforever are the days of rustic Frencheateries serving up hearty regional fare andbottomless carafes of vin de table, all for aset price that was often taken for a mis-print on the menu.

If anything positive can be taken from thisthreat of extinction however, it’s thesatisfaction of finding those that still exist,and there’s something about the ruralcharm of Clavelshay Barn Restaurant that’sreminiscent of these dwindling hiddengems. Nestled in an idyllic valley on theedge of the Quantock Hills, the restaurant isan unassuming barn conversion set in theheart of a family owned dairy-farm. Assuch, for nearly all ingredients on the menuthink ‘food metres’ rather than ‘food miles’;even the water on the table comes from thefarm’s own spring.

The space itself is simple and inviting,complete with large oak beams and aselection of pastoral scenes interpreted bylocal artists. As you might expect, tenant ofthe Crown Estate Sue Milverton also headsup the front of house and possesses a realknack for making diners feel like dinnerguests rather than customers. Her righthand man is amiable head chef Guy Horley,

whose extensive use of local produce in hismenu saw Clavelshay win a coveted Taste ofthe West Silver Award last year.

To start, a dish of grilled Lyme Baymackerel on sesame and spring onionnoodles with orange and soy reduction wasperhaps least at home on the moretraditional menu. That said, the fish wasgrilled to perfection and the delicatebalance of accompanying elementsrendered it aromatic without overpoweringwhat might follow.

Then a generous portion of pork tenderloinwrapped in bacon with black pudding,sweet potato purée and caramelised appleswas both innovatively composed and a realmarriage of British flavours. Here Horley’smantra of country cooking with a twist wasclearly displayed for all to see (and devour).

And for dessert, a cherry Bakewell tart withbrandy and raisin ice cream was adelightful parting memory. The tart’s subtlehints of almond rounded off with theunmistakable taste of home made icecream took the dish to delicious newheights - making room for a third coursehere really shouldn’t be given a secondthought.

Perhaps the final comparison that can bedrawn between Clavelshay Barn and thedwindling French model is the price. Avisitor during the week pays just £20 forsuch a feast - when ingredients are onliterally on your doorstep this is to somedegree simply logic. Ultimately however, itforms just one of many reasons to visit thewonderfully quaint Clavelshay Barn, a placewhich represents an almost forgottenapproach to dining where content over formis undoubtedly the order of the day.

Autumn invariably turns our thoughts to replenishing food, and aflavour visit to Clavelshay Barn Restaurant reveals a diningexperience that is increasingly hard to find...

Claveshay BarnLower Clavelshay FarmNorth PethertonTaunton TA6 6PJ

01278 662629www.clavelshaybarn.co.uk

Clavelshay Barn

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Sue Milvertonheads up the front ofhouse and possesses areal knack for makingdiners feel like dinnerguests rather thancustomers...

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> flavour chef profile

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> flavour chef profile

Name: Sam MoodyHead chef at: The Bath PrioryOriginally from: Surrey

My nan was a fantastic cook and my dad akeen gardener so good food waseverywhere at home. Sitting down togetherto eat great food was a normal part offamily life for me growing up.

I did not start out with a plan to be a chef, I knew I loved food, cooking and eating itand so it seemed to happen from there. I went to catering college when I was 16 andworked in a local hotel part-time. Food issomething that should be taken veryseriously and I have always worked hard tosoak up as much as I can.

Being in the kitchen from a young age gaveme a good grounding about what cheffingis all about.My Head Chef made the hard work of a hot,busy kitchen sound so romantic. So I wentto work for Steve Crane at Ockendon Manorand I stayed there for three-and-a-halfyears. I needed a new challenge which Ilater found at the Priory's sister hotelGidleigh Park. Thats where I really uppedmy game

Even though I have a background in finedining, it’s not the cuisine that appeals tome as much at the chefs I work with. It isgreat to be around people with incredibleattention to detail and an enormous respectfor the food in its raw form, rather thanwhat we have created from it. The produceis the most important thing and that’s whatdrives me.

Working with Michael Caines is hard butmind blowing. I am still learning a

temendous amount from him and hepushes himself harder than anyone I have ever met. It’s vital as a budding chef thatyou see and experience that. We talk all thetime and although he doesn’t tell me whatto put on the menus as Executive Chef hedoes have the final say.

The Bath Priory menus showcase what I learnt during my time at Gidleigh Parkand the attention to detail that Michaelinstilled in me. I write my lunchmenus weekly and they are influenced byseasonal produce and local ingredients, thestyle is very much my interpretation of theGidleigh food experience which I still loveand rate very highly. The Bath Priory diningexperience is my take on a great style ofcuisine and I am still developing it with myteam, enjoying creating our own signatureflavours.

The pace of life in the West Country is justright. People worry about the right things,they enjoy good food and eating out. Theproduce from the West country is incredible,the flavours are sensational. I source the best and have greatrelationships with local suppliers.

I’ve just had my 26th birthday so somepeople consider me young for the position I am in. In reality age doesnt really haveanything to do with it. I have always takenmy job seriously and that is how I have gotwhere I am. Attitude is more important thanage.�

The Bath PrioryWeston RoadBathBA1 2XT

01225 331922www.thebathpriory.co.uk

chef profile

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COMPETITION

Win an olive wood cheese board and some AvonGorgeous chutney – look at www.withcheese.co.ukand tell us who makes our ‘big cheese’ of themonth. E-mail [email protected] by the 30thNovember with your answer.

Withcheese.co.uk specialises in providinghigh quality products to go with cheese. We have foundsome of the very best food, accessories and gifts foryou to enjoy with cheese.

You can order our products on line atwww.withcheese.co.uk or come and see us at HenleazeChristmas Market on 8th December or on various datesat St Nicholas Nails & Food Christmas Markets from 29th November.

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> flavour milsom place

At a time when so much in life is mass-produced and mediocre, Bath’s well-lovedFine Cheese Co. offers a range of cheesesand cheese accompaniments that are bestsellers in delicatessens throughout thecountry and indeed the world over. Over 150 artisan cheeses, 100 of which areBritish, with the remainder being importedfrom France and Italy, Spain and Holland,greet the thousands of visitors to the shopevery year.

The Fine Cheese Co. – devoted supportersof the small-scale producer and the artisanwho makes cheese in the time-honouredfashion - does not supply supermarkets aspolicy. Their cheeses come in their ownnatural wrapping, or they arewrapped in cloth or wax -most are unpasteurised too.

As part of their ongoingcommitment to bringinggood food to a wideraudience, Milsom Placehave invited The FineCheese Co. to host a festivalthis month with a programmeof tastings, talks and theopportunity to meet 14 of thebest artisan cheese makersfrom all over the UK. Among the star line up areDavid and Jo Clarke whomake Sparkenhoe, theonly unpasteurisedRed Leicester in theUK, CharlieWesthead of Neals’

Yard Creamery who makes delicate goat’smilk cheese, Mary Holbrooke from nearbyTimsbury with her legendary goats’cheeses and top cheddar makers, theKeens. Hot off the press is the GoldenCenarth named Supreme Champion ofCheese at the British Cheese Awards lastmonth too.

We are part of an unbroken chain from thecow to the customer,” says Ann-MarieDyas, co-owner of the Fine Cheese Co. “Inthe same way that we take great care of thecheese that is entrusted to us, the cheesemaker use their skill in creating and caringfor their cheeses.” The whole of MilsomPlace is entering into the spirit of the eventwith a special cheeseboard of British

cheeses by the Moon and Sixpence and adisplay of the smartest cheese boards

and knives by Quadri.

Director of Milsom Place,Sarah Mansfield comments

“Milsom Place is delightedto support and promote

artisan food producers.We're ideally placed forhosting events like thiswith our courtyards andstreet linking two of the

major shopping streets inBath and are delighted to

have linked up withthe Fine Cheese Co.to create such a

strong line up ofproducers this

month."

Following on from the success of this year’s Great British Cheese Festival, this month the country’s topartisan cheese-makers are flocking to Milsom Place in Bath for a very special event...

The Fine Cheese Co.

DON’T MISS YOURSLICE OF THE ACTION!Talks and demonstration times:

11.30am Mark Sharman fromSharpham Wine & Cheese

12.15pm Mary Holbrooke from Sleight Farm

1pm Mike Smales from Lyburn Farm

2pm Pete Humphries fromWhite Lake Cheese

2.45pm Jo Clarke fromLeicestershire HandmadeCheese Company

3.30pm Graham Padfield from Bath Soft Cheese

Xanthe Clay, The Telegraph’s cookery writerwill open the event at 10am. This is the fifthannual cheese festival at Milsom Place andis part of a series of food events whichincludes Chocolate Festival in December.�

The Fine Cheese Co. Festival takes placeat Milsom Place in Bath on October 30and runs from 10am-6pm, admissionfree.

T: 01225 789040 W: www.milsomplace.co.uk

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> flavour drops by

Dubbed the Camden Town of Bath, no tripto the city would be complete without a visitto Walcot Street. This historic road offers itspassing trade an eclectic mix of art, craftand independent businesses specialising ineverything from antique furniture, vintageclothes, bicycles and handblown glass.Nestled amongst the bohemia sits thelatest addition to the artisan haven: Madeby Ben.

This little sandwich shop is right at homeon Bath’s street of independents. OwnerBen Sibbalb’s father made regular stops atHarrods Food Hall on his way home fromwork, raising his son on a diet of the finestartisan ingredients. In time, he woulddream of becoming the purveyor of thesedelicacies. “I had to beg, steal and borrowto get the shop open but I wouldn’t beanywhere else,” Ben enthuses. “I loveWalcot Street, it’s full of people who workwith their hands. It’s great to be a part ofsomething so unique.”

“I want people to come in here and beinspired. I’m so passionate aboutindependents and their produce that I wantpeople to try it and think twice. I go theextra mile to pick the best produce sopeople don’t necessarily have to.” Whateverfeatures in his sandwiches can be boughtfrom the shelves that line the back wall,including an impressive selection of loose-leaf teas and Lazy José coffee.

Within the space of one month, Ben rackedup an impressive 40,000 miles all within a40-mile radius from his home to source thebest suppliers possible. Highlights of hiscareful consideration include bread fromThe Bertinet Kitchen, cheese and fish fromThe Smoke House in Chew Magna,Wescombe cheddar, Valrhona chocolateand not forgetting of course his wife’s,mother’s and mother-in-law’s delicioushomemade cakes and quiches.

Many a restaurant owner can be seenpopping in for a hot smoked salmon,beetroot and horseradish sandwich anddelicious coffee, and in a city that pridesitself on its boho café culture, you couldn’treally ask for a better endorsement of itsnewest addition.

Made by Ben100 Walcot StreetBathBA1 5BG

01225 319999www.madebyben.co.uk

flavour

drops by...madeby ben

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So what has made her so well known to us?Aside from being the daughter of leadingpolitical broadcaster David Dimbleby, it wasquite simply down to Sainsbury's. Back inthe late 1970s, the wife of chairman JohnSainsbury owned a copy of Josceline's A Taste of Dreams, and such was theimpression it made on her that Joscelinewas singled out for this groundbreakingnew project: cook books on sale in asupermarket.

Sceptics would have seen this as a directmarketing ploy to up the sales of the littleknown exotica that she was using longbefore anyone else. In fact, it was quite theopposite. She reminisces with fond butfrustrating memories of the limited rangeof specialities on sale at the time in theirdull brown bottles – mixed herbs, paprikaand one or two others comprised the herband spice section at the time. “Naturally Ihad to be quite insistent that Sainsbury'ssold all the ingredients that were featuredin my recipes,” she says. No doubt adecision they’ve never regretted to this day.

She’s tucked well over a score of cookerybooks under her belt, including herSainsbury's Cooking For Christmas, whichpreceded even Delia's attempt some yearsago. The popularity of her Marvellous MealsWith Mince saw it reprinted ten times. Shesagely confessed however that there comesa time when penning recipes for aparticular season has been done manytimes before. And so Josceline turned herhand to writing historical biographies,moving away from the world of food for a

time and allowing her to return with arenewed sense of vigour.

Being convinced by her publishers to writeabout food again, the resultant Orchards InThe Oasis is a wonderful collection ofrecipes recounted through her travelsaround the world, illustrated by vintagefamily snapshots taken in far-flung places.

From the remote Andes to rural Devon,crumbling of the Raj of India tocosmopolitan New York, she places beforeus the dishes she experienced, offering aglimpse of food cultures as they were then.Lemon pudding, cheesy fish cakes andchicken in the orchard pie sit comfortablyalongside yazd honey cakes, chickenfiruzabad and Gujarat aubergines andtomatoes.

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> flavour josceline dimbleby

Josceline Dimbleby is a jewel in the British culinarycrown but according to Helen Aurelius Haddock, she isquite the enigma too. She has long held her place amongthe country’s most respected food writers yet she hasrarely appeared on the television...

joscelinedimbleby

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> flavour josceline dimbleby

“I hate being told what to do,” she confided,and following recipes to the letter issomething Josceline has never done. Sheclaims never to have cooked the same thingtwice as she twists and turns ingredientsand methods to conjure up something newfrom the ashes of the old. The food isnestled between her personal travelogues,inviting the reader to dine in the manycountries of her colourful life. She hasrevisited these ports repeatedly over the

years, rekindling her love of the food thereand capturing it within the book's vividpages.

If you want to share a smudged page fromher diary as a young girl or see her at homeholding her freshly steamed Christmaspudding, Orchards In The Oasis will unfoldan unparalleled food journey, allowing youto cook from the eclectic canon of recipesshe has gathered along the way.�

‘Orchards in the Oasis’ isavailable at all good bookshops.Published by Quadrille. RRP £25

From the remote Andes to rural Devon, crumbling of the Raj of India to cosmopolitan New York, she placesbefore us the dishes she experienced, offering a glimpseof food cultures as they were then.

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Blakes HotelLondon calling...

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> flavour blakes hotel

Blakes. A boutique hotel tucked away in theheart of South Kensington, is known for itsfierce protection of A-list celebrities fromthe flashing lights of pestering paps.Sharon Stone, Martin Sheen and Liam andPatsy are among those who escape fromthe modern realities of an intrusive Londonlife to a hotel offering a private interlude;where decadence and drama can be foundby the Champagne bucket load without aNikon in sight.

I couldn’t help but marvel over the young,hip fashionistas who had trodden the rustic

wooden floor before me. It’s a sure bet thatPosh Spice wouldn’t arrive to a receptionarea like I did with the grace of a bull in achina shop yet the staff were cool andcapable. As soon as my luggage left myhands and I was shown through to theroom, I started to feel like my world andthat of Mrs Beckham’s were not so far apartafter all.

Each room in Blakes has an ego. They arestylish, daring and rude, each with adecadence which is sure to bedazzle. Welive in a celebrity culture which is at times

Blakes Hotel33 Roland GardensLondonSW7 3PF

0207 3706701www.blakeshotels.com

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> flavour blakes hotel

be trashy, but most of us take a guiltypleasure in satisfying our cultural tendencyfor voyeurism. Being spies to a lifestyle thatwe know we should keep our noses out of isnaughty but nice. This defines Blakes Hoteland staying here is an excuse to indulge andenjoy something that doesn’t quite fit withthe world outside the oriental-shutterblinds.

The private lounge of dark purples, blacks,golds and mahogany screams opulence andsensuality. The four-poster whisperseduction and privacy. Burnt orange andblack pinstripe silk curtains cocoon theKingsize bed as well as hiding any availablewindow that dares to allow a glimmer oflight in.

Blakes has a hold on its occupants. If youmanage to escape its clutches you are in aperfect London hot spot, close to hundredsof attractions that many have spent theglobe-trotting to get to. Anouska Hempel’sdesign brings touches of far-off lands to you

with impeccable attention to detail: China,India, Turkey and Russia are at yourfingertips, one room at a time.

The menu has a strong Eastern influencewith touches of the West. The cuisine,devised by Anouska Hempel herself wasenjoyable but that almost wasn’t the point.The purpose of the food is for it to beadmired and thought-provoking. The souffléSuissesse was my chosen starter. Comingout the size of a rugby ball turned on its tailwas an achievement that no amount of WImeetings could cater for. Spooning in, it wasa flawless example; hot melted cheese andegg filled air. The charred tuna with misoDijon dressing and green tea noodles with aside of truffle mash was perfectly tasty ifnot a little aesthetically confused. Althoughthis is not my preferred way to dine, it justcouldn’t be any other way for a place likeBlakes, and so be it.

Nothing about this place is practical, butwhy would you want it to be? You don’t

come to Blakes because of speedybroadband, prompt service and an excuseto slouch with trainers on. The dress code,along with everything else, is sheer glam.Pull out your most impractical shoes, donyour favourite party dress and feel free toswivel about with a chilled glass ofChampagne or fruity Bellini, just becauseyou can. There’s plenty of time for the realworld so just before you step back into it,with or without a large pair of sunglassesand a fishlike pout, enjoy the chance toescape it every now and then. Blakes is agood place to start. �

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Interested in learning how to cook

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Good food, well kept ales and a warm welcome!

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www.lovejoyswholesale.com

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A stone fruit, plums belong to the extensivePrunus family whose siblings include thecherry and the peach. Believed to haveoriginated in Asia, there are thousands ofvarieties of plums that are availablethroughout the world, ranging in colourfrom red, blue-black, purple, yellow, greenand amber.

Plums are a perfect lunch box addition;filling and nutritious they will help raiseblood sugar levels to give an extra boostduring the day as well as being a greatsource of fibre. Packed full of vitaminsincluding vitamin C, which enables the bodyto form collagen for stronger bones andvitamin A, which is important for healthyvision. Perfect for growing bodies!

Plums are just as healthy when eaten intheir dried form. The prune is packed full ofantioxidants, helping to aid digestion andcleanse the immune system. These arealso an excellent fruit for those that sufferfrom anemia as they help in the productionand absorption of iron in the body, leadingto better blood circulation and healthytissues.

Enjoy your harvest of plums fresh orstewed or indeed in a delicious jam for pies

and cakes.Plums are equally as delicious in savourydishes such as sweet and sour chicken,stews and stuffings. Here however is theperfect recipe to get you started with theautumn glut of pickedplums.�

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> flavour siân blunos

COOKINGFOR COCOLike most busy mothers, Siân wanted tofeed her baby well, but didn't have a lot offree time on her hands. Her solution was to develop recipes using a wide variety offresh, available foods, which could be batch-cooked and used to stock the freezer. Now, she always has a range of delicious dishes on hand, and you can too.With a little care and planning you can give even the youngest of children the experience of good, fresh food, which istasty and nutritious.

To order a personally signed copy of Cooking for Coco for only £8.50 (including postage), RRP £9.99, email [email protected]

Plum crunchycrisp 750g ripe plums cut in half andstoned125g unsalted butter75g porridge oats40g flaked almonds70g flour75g Demerara sugar2 tsp corn flour50g pumpkin or sunflower seeds1tsp of ground cinnamon orcardamom

1 Pre heat oven to 180 °C / gas mark6 and melt the butter. 2 Mix oats, almonds, seeds, flour,ground cinnamon or cardamom andsugar together and stir in the meltedbutter. 3 Put the plums into a baking dishand cover the crisp topping with themixture. 4 Bake in the oven for 25/30 mins andserve with vanilla ice cream, custardor clotted cream.

Chef, food writer, author and mother Siân Blunos ispassionate about children’s health and their eatinghabits, and believes that expanding your knowledge offood can only help benefit your child.

know yourFRUIT

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> flavour cross guns

cross guns

What is it that makes the quintessentiallyBritish traditional village pub? Is it abuilding with bags of history, a rabbitwarren of interlinked rooms, with lowceilings and oak beams? Or perhaps it’s apub in the sort of village where carsstruggle to move about the narrow roads,so everyone seems to walk or cycle? Maybeit is situated in a beautiful lush green valleywith a river running along the bottom of thepub garden? Or perhaps the pub shouldstand beside a canal with narrowboats andbarges sauntering past? Of course it woulddefinitely offer fine ales, brewed locally.

Or maybe, to be truly representative of allthat is best about the British village inn, itshould boast all of the above and more.Well, tucked in the Avon Valley a couple ofmiles west of Bradford-on-Avon, the CrossGuns at Avoncliff is one such pub.

The central part of the pub dates back tothe time of Henry VIII, but it did not becomean inn for perhaps 120 years, when it wasextended to the East, and became known asthe Carpenter’s Arms. There was a fordacross the River Avon nearby in those days,so there was much passing trade.

The construction of the Kennet & AvonCanal between 1794 and 1810 saw thespectacular Avoncliff Aqueduct built justyards from the pub, and soon the additionaltrade from boats travelling from Bristol toLondon and back necessitated the buildingof a further extension at the western end ofthe building (now the snug).

When the Wiltshire Rifle Volunteers set upa shooting range alongside the canal at theend of the 18th century, the Carpenter’sArms became the Cross Guns in honour ofthis new Yeomanry. These days the CrossGuns caters mainly for canal visitors,tourists and dog walkers. Inside is likestepping back in time. There is a gorgeousinglenook fireplace and, behind a greenvelvet curtain, the entrance to what isbelieved to have been a Priest’s Hole,perhaps installed to protect Catholic clergy.

The bar area now ranges to your left as youenter, and all along it are pump clips fromthe local Box Steam Brewery, plus one ortwo guests, with the beer selectioncarefully planned to suit a variety ofpalates. Expect at least one dark bitter ormild to be available, as well as a wide

A regular contributor to CAMRA magazine Pints West,Duncan Shine champions the virtues of real ale andtraditional cider. He’s also editor of the websitebritishpubguide.com

The Cross GunsAvoncliffBradford-on-AvonWiltshireBA15 2HB

01225 862335www.crossguns.net

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> flavour cross guns

From Colerne in WiltshireBox Steam Cog (4%) This is a traditional best bitter that looksas good as it tastes. It has a lovely darkamber richness that looks divine held upto a real fire. The aroma is surprisinglygentle for such a dark beer, and thelingering flavour is more hops than malt.

Box Steam Dark & Handsome (5%) A strong dark ale with a hint of those oldsweet shops where you bought things bythe quarter pound! Definitelyblackcurrant in there, and lemon, evenliquorice allsorts. But all presented in asmooth and creamy beer. Gorgeous.

Box Steam Golden Bolt (3.8%) Named after a solid gold bolt purportedto have been used by Brunel in his bridgeat Saltash, this is a real session bitter.Not too strong, with a pale golden haze tolook at, and pure hops in the finish.

Box Steam Funnel Blower (4.5%)A porter (think stout but less filling) thatperfectly illustrates the term‘bittersweet’. The roasted barley andmalt give it that classic British ‘bitter’

taste, and yet at the same time there is ahint of sweet vanilla. Perfect for crispautumn evenings.

Codrington Codger (4.2%)From the Cotswold Spring Brewery inDodington in Gloucestershire. A guestbeer, copper-coloured with a real crispfeel to it. It’s dry, but at the same timevery refreshing. Just a hint of hops in theaftertaste.

Raise a glass to...variety of traditional ciders.

Outside is a terraced garden and eatingarea. Two rows of tables (some undercover) near the top of the steep steps areideal for alfresco dining while you lookdown on a more haphazard lawned area,with more tables and chairs, which runsright down to the river. There are invariablyhungry ducks dabbling on the water, andoften a heron fishing in the shadow of themighty aqueduct.

Food is available at lunchtimes andevenings, but it can get very busy atweekends and in the summer so it isadvisable to allow plenty of time so you canrelax and enjoy the meal. Although shownoff to its best advantage on glorioussummer days, the Cross Guns is well wortha visit at quieter times of the year, with thevalley at its most beautiful in autumn, andthe fire at its most welcoming during thelong winter months. �

The Cross Guns is on the Kennet & AvonCanal with moorings available close by, aswell as the National Cycle Trail (bicycleparking at the pub). It is a 20 minute walkfrom Bradford-on-Avon. Avoncliff Railwaystation is right across the aqueduct, withregular request-stop trains.

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> flavour greg wallace

GregWallace

What made this year's CelebrityMasterchef winner Lisa Faulkner stand outfrom the competition?She was the best cook. People aresurprised that it's nearly always men whowin amateur Masterchef then they'reequally surprised that it's women who dowell in Celebrity Masterchef - it's alwaysthe best cook who wins and has nothing todo with their gender really.

What are some of the best (and worst)dishes you've sampled on the show?The best one was probably also the mostsimple - Stephen Wallis' Poire belle Hélènewhich is such a beautiful dish. One of thesillier ones I saw was a lady saying she wasgoing to make a sweet potato soufflé byslicing King Edwards potatoes andsprinkling sugar on top!

If you could only work on Masterchef,would it be amateur, the professionals orcelebrity?Definitely the amateur one - I just love tosee members of the public fulfilling theirdreams,

Of the amateurs, who has most impressedyou over the years?John [Torode] and I say how the standardkeeps on getting higher and it does. I thinkDhruv Baker is such an exceptional talent,but then Mat Follas before him was very,very creative too. We've had them cookingon stage on Masterchef LIVE and the stuff

they come up is just stunning.

Are your co-hosts John Torodeand Michel Roux Junior verydifferent to work with?Yes – because they come fromvery different backgrounds.Michel was brought up in avery disciplined French familyand John Torode wasbrought up in big egalitariandining rooms in Australia.My taste falls smack bangin the middle - I use andenjoy both theirrestaurants depending onthe experience I am after.

How did you come to workwith John?We were approached separatelyto be on the show, without theproduction team realising that we'd knownone another for over 20 years. I never knewwhen I met him all those years ago - when Iwas running around as a greengrocer tryingto find him coriander with the root on - thatwe'd end up in such a rewardingpartnership and as such good friends.

As each series develops and the gap closesbetween contestants, how does that affectthe judging criteria?I think in the earlier rounds you’re lookingfor potential, and as you get towards thefinal, you’re looking for the finished article –

We talk with co-host of Masterchef, a programme that’sgrown into one of the UK’s biggest hotbeds of undiscoveredcooking talent...

10 questionswith…

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> flavour greg wallace

there comes a point where potential has tostop and delivery has to begin.

Are you looking for contestants who canforge a career beyond the series?

We need them to have the skill set,the touch and the palate that a headchef might have, without necessarilythe ability to run a brigade. We’rebasically looking for someone whocan taste finished dishes in theirhead with a bunch of rawingredients in front of them.

What can we expect fromMasterchef LIVE in November?This year John and I are actuallycooking a three-course lunchbetween us and we’re also going tobe passing on some of our skills –I’ll be showing people how tomake a sponge pudding which I’mreally looking forward to.

You supposedly have a weaknessfor all things sweet – is this true?

All kids have a sweet tooth and I neverlost my absolute delight in something

sweet and sticky!

Gregg Wallace will be at this year’sMasterchef LIVE, featuring exciting livedemos, previous show winners andparticipants from the past and current TVseries. The event takes place 12-14November at Birmingham NEC, visitwww.mastercheflive.com for moreinformation.

Serves 4

Ingredients500g cooking apples, peeled, cored andthinly sliced50g soft light brown sugar125g butter, plus extra for greasing125g caster sugar2 eggs125g self-raising flour, sifted1 tablespoon hot waterCustard or cream to serve

Method1 Grease a 1.2 litre shallow ovenproofdish. Arrange the apples in the dish andsprinkle with the brown sugar.2 Beat the butter and caster sugartogether in a bowl until pale and fluffy.Add the eggs, one at a time, adding alittle flour with the second egg. Fold inthe remaining flour, then the hot water.3 Spread the mixture evenly over theapples and bake in a preheated oven,180°C (350°F), Gas Mark 4, for 40-45minutes until golden brown. Serve withcream or custard.

EVE’S PUDDINGWorth sinning for: light fluffy golden apple hidden under a sweet sponge topping.Lucky old Eve is all I can say.

I never knew when I met him [John Torode]all those years ago – whenI was running around as agreengrocer trying to findhim coriander with theroot on – that we’d end upin such a rewardingpartnership...

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Documents

Flavour Magazine October 2010