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Fabric shrinkage process
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04/10/2015 Essential Fabric Quality Reports for Bulk Cutting Approval of Fabrics
http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2012/06/essentialfabricqualityreportsfor.html 1/7
Home IE Planning Merchandising Quality New Book News Contact
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Topics: quality control By: Prasanta Sarkar
This is a guest contribution from Ashish Kumar Gupta
Fabric is the main raw material for garment manufacturing and it involves 60‐70% of total
garment cost. To ensure that only quality fabric is used in garments, factory takes precautionary
measures and set up fabric inspection department with qualified personnel. Standard
procedures of fabric inspection, preparing inspection report following international or national
standards followed by top tier garment manufacturers have been explained in this article.
As per quality standards, prior to bulk production cutting, factory prepares following three
reports and takes approval from authorised person.
1. Fabric inspection report
2. Fabric shrinkage report
3. Shade band report for 100% fabric rolls (applicable for dyed and printed fabric).
The above three reports are submitted for approvals within 48 hours of fabric inhouse. According
to Standard procedures (SOP), initially only 10% of the fabric rolls is inspected on 4‐Point System.
If there is any doubt on acceptance further 10% of total fabric rolls are Inspected. Some
manufactures prefer doing 100% fabric inspection in order to get ensure that only quality fabric
is cut and fed to the line. During 100% inspection fabric inspectors mark all the defects so they
can identify them during spreading and replace the parts after cutting.
If fabric is cut without being inspected, complete responsibility will be on fabric quality
inspection department as it is a violation of a critical aspect. Reports are submitted to buyers &
the relevant merchandiser.
1. Fabric Inspection ReportPurpose: To decide acceptance or rejections of fabric roll (For Woven). Fabric inspection is done
using 4‐point system. Inspection procedure has been explained in the following table.
Activity Requirement
Essential Fabric Quality Reports for BulkCutting Approval of Fabrics
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04/10/2015 Essential Fabric Quality Reports for Bulk Cutting Approval of Fabrics
http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2012/06/essentialfabricqualityreportsfor.html 2/7
1. Select rolls Roll to be chosen at random2. Check the roll as per 4 points
system.3. Give penalty points for
defects4. Calculate index for each
individual roll.Points / 100 sq. yd. = (Total points in roll * 36 *100)/ (Total length in yards *width in inches)
5. Calculate final average indexfor the total no. of rollsinspected.
6. Decide acceptance or rejectof the fabric
Defects in both the wrap and weft directions for woven and course/waledirections for knits are assigned point using the following criteria:Points Inches (”) (mm)
1 Point Defects up to 3 inches Up to 75mm2 Point Defects > 3 inches < 6 inches Defects > 75mm< 150mm3 Point Defects > 6 inches < 9 inches Defects > 150mm< 230mm4 Point Defects > 9 inches Defects > 230mm
A continuous defect running 9 inches / 230mm or longer is assigned fourpoints for each meter that occurs within the shipment. Other importantparameters to be considered during fabric inspection are ‐ i) Length of the faults is to be measured in the warp or weft direction and the direction in which
the fault is longest is the fault direction. However when the warp and weft length are same and
when the penalty of the shorter direction is heavier, take the fault of the direction in which the
penalty is heavier.
ii) When the fault in the warp direction is over 1yd, the part which is over 1yd is deemed as fault
of the same kind of others.
iii) When two or more faults overlap, apply only the faults which penalty is the heavier.
iv) When there are two or more faults within the length of 1yd and the penalty points come over
4 points, the points over 4 points are not added.
v) The inspector needs to be at a distance of 3 feet away from the inspection table and the linear
speed of inspection not to be less than 0.1 meters per second when inspection is done on fabric
inspection machine.
Standards for Passing FabricAverage index for inspected rolls not to exceed» 28 points / 100yd²Maximum index for any roll not to exceed» 40 points / 100yd²
2. Fabric shade band report:For styles those required garment washing, before and after wash blankets is submitted ( 3 sets
each ) covering all rolls and it is attached in the shade continuity card .
A 100% shade band covering all rolls & all colors pertaining to a certain style /Consignment is made and get approved prior to cutting of bulk Fabric.
Penalty Point Evaluation
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04/10/2015 Essential Fabric Quality Reports for Bulk Cutting Approval of Fabrics
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Shade band preparation Process
No sooner the fabric is inhoused, the quality department collectsfabric panels representing all rolls within 6 hours from store.
Cut 6 inches from end of each roll. Join all panels by cover stitch incorrect grain line direction to be in a blanket form.
If the style is a non‐wash program two sets is prepared.
If the style consists of a certain wash, then 4 blankets is prepared ‐2 blankets non‐washed and 2 blankets with the exact approvedwash of the style.
Once the shade bands are ready, dye lot or color segregation isdone. If the Shade Band consists of 2‐3 different shades, suchshades should be segregated into families marked A, B, C Etc. Acopy of the segregation of shades is handed over to the store,cutting room, merchandising and production departments. Storeswill issue and cutting and production department will proceed asper the segregated shades without getting mixed.
3. Fabric shrinkage report:A 100% Shrinkage report is submitted for all styles and the washing shrinkage has to be
performed as per the wash type required for the bulk.
Garment fit is a very important factor in the purchase decision of the customer. Misfit at any
stage of the life of garment can lead to premature rejection and earn a bad perception for the
brand. A garment is supposed to be washed after every use and expected to retain the same fit
and appearance during the lifetime of the garment. To fulfill this fabric has to be tested for
dimensional stability. For this shrinkage tests are carried out is order to manipulate the patterns
in the same ratio to avoid any measurement problems after garment washing.
Shrinkage Templates (25cm*25cm or 50cm*50cm) are used in industry to gauge the shrinkage %
directly.
Features of Shrinkage Template and Scale:
Fabric Shrinkage measurement template
04/10/2015 Essential Fabric Quality Reports for Bulk Cutting Approval of Fabrics
http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2012/06/essentialfabricqualityreportsfor.html 4/7
To determine directly the % dimensional change (shrinkage) in alltypes of fabrics.
Fine calibrated Shrinkage Template with 25cm x 25cm" & 50cm" x50cm" benchmarks length‐wise & width‐wise.
Calibrated scale to evaluate shrinkage and stretch directly Up to15%.
Two fine tipped black and yellow fabric markers are used foraccurate marking on light and dark colour fabrics.
How Shrinkage Template and Scale works?
The marking template should be placed on the specimen to betested, making sure that the fabric is in flat position beforemarking.
Hold the template firm, and carefully mark the fabric through theeight slots of the template, to ensure that it does not move.
Now put the fabric in the washing machine or Dry Cleaning.
Dry the sample as per specified method. It can either be Line Dryor Flat Dry or Tumble Dry.
To find the dimensional change read the Shrinkage/Stretch on 3points on the Wrap side and 3 points on Weft Side.
Get the mean value of wrap‐wise and weft wise readings to getthe Accurate Shrinkage or Stretch.
If you don’t have a shrinkage template then you can calculate the shrinkage orgain as directed in Equations 1 and 2 by marking fabric with help of a simple scale.
1. S = [(A ‐ B)/A] x 100 2. G = [(B ‐ A)/A] x 100 Where:
A = distance between gauge marks before wetout, 10 inches (254 mm) B = distance between gauge marks after wetout and drying G = % gain (In reporting the gain, the percent change shall have the prefix "+" S = % shrinkage
About the AuthorAshish Kumar Gupta is a Master of Fashion Technology from National
Fabric shrinkage testing samples
04/10/2015 Essential Fabric Quality Reports for Bulk Cutting Approval of Fabrics
http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2012/06/essentialfabricqualityreportsfor.html 5/7
Institute of Fashion Technology, New Delhi and he holds a Bachelors degreein Textile Technology. He was associated with Madura Exports as AssistantQuality Manager for two and half years. At present he is working with LovelyProfessional University as an Assistant Professor.
Prasanta Sarkar is a garment industry expert andfounder of Online Clothing Study, a popular and muchloved blog in the garment industry. He is the author oftwo books including the latest one "GarmentManufacturing: Processes, Practices and Technology".He is working in the garment industry since 2006. Hehelps garment businesses to grow. Email:[email protected]
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17 Comments Sort by
Sahabuddin Mohammed Thaheen · Quality Assurance Inspector at Li & Fungeasy helpLike · Reply · Jun 5, 2015 11:55am
Cupid Creationsgreat stuff !Like · Reply · Apr 13, 2015 9:53am
Kelum Prabhath Chandrasiri · Stores Assistant at TimexThanks you.Like · Reply · Feb 16, 2015 9:25pm
OnlineClothing Study · Works at Online Clothing StudyYou are most welcome.Like · Reply · Feb 18, 2015 5:23pm
Balal Hossain · Factory Manager at Packraft Myanmar Co.,LtdIts a very helpful information for me ...Thank You .Like · Reply · Feb 9, 2015 4:34am
Nazmul Imon · Assistant Manager (Technical Compliance) at Asian Group ofChittagongHow to calculate 9 point system?Like · Reply · Dec 23, 2014 6:09am
Abbas Alawad · Works at Ssmothank youLike · Reply · Dec 20, 2014 2:26am
Abbas Alawad · Works at Ssmocan we use 4 point system to evaluate fabric made from cotton & polysterLike · Reply · Dec 8, 2014 12:04pm
OnlineClothing Study · Works at Online Clothing StudyYes you can. for polyester fabric you need set different acceptable level less point per 100 sq.yd.Like · Reply · Dec 9, 2014 7:51am
Wgp Kumara · Works at Dsl lanka (pvt) ltdThank youLike · Reply · Nov 18, 2014 6:56am
Swati Panchal · Consultant at Sadhna A Women's Handicraft EnterpriseI have a query, what should be the size of roll?? any size?? and then follow theformula of 36*100 divide by fabric length * widthLike · Reply · Nov 6, 2014 2:56am
Dharmendra Pandey · Manager and operation at R.S.A Buying HouseVery best way to make understand....thanksLike · Reply · Sep 14, 2014 10:33pm
OnlineClothing Study · Works at Online Clothing StudyYou are welcome Dharmendra. Thanks for reading OCS articles.Like · Reply · Sep 15, 2014 6:38am
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