FabricsFabrics

Apparel 2 – obj. 1.02Apparel 2 – obj. 1.02

Fabric Construction: Fabric Construction: Weaving and KnittingWeaving and Knitting

Woven FabricsWoven Fabrics

Interlacing 2 Interlacing 2 sets of yarns at sets of yarns at right angles to right angles to each othereach other

Plain WeavePlain Weave Simplest of all Simplest of all

weavesweaves Most commonMost common Over, under; Over, under;

over, underover, under **broadcloth, **broadcloth,

gingham, poplingingham, poplin muslin, and muslin, and

many othersmany others

Twill WeaveTwill Weave

Diagonal Diagonal weaveweave

**denim, **denim, gabardinegabardine

**firm, heavy **firm, heavy weaveweave

Satin WeaveSatin Weave

Shiny, reflects Shiny, reflects lightlight

Smooth and Smooth and slipperyslippery

Frays a lotFrays a lot **lustrous **lustrous

appearanceappearance

Leno WeaveLeno Weave

Pairs of threads Pairs of threads crossed overcrossed over

Looks “open”Looks “open” Fruit bags, Fruit bags,

mosquito nettingmosquito netting

Pile WeavePile Weave

Raised surfaceRaised surface Loopy or furryLoopy or furry VelvetVelvet CorduroyCorduroy

KnitsKnits

Weft – one yarnWeft – one yarn Warp – several Warp – several

yarnsyarns Purl – looks the Purl – looks the

same on both same on both sidessides

Purl Knit

Warp Knit

Weft Knit

Weft Knit**Weft Knit**

Uses one yarnUses one yarn **Single knit, **Single knit,

ribbed and jerseyribbed and jersey

Double KnitDouble Knit

2 yarns and 2 2 yarns and 2 sets of needlessets of needles

Heavier and Heavier and sturdiersturdier

Doesn’t run or Doesn’t run or ravelravel

Ribbed KnitRibbed Knit

Vertical ribs on Vertical ribs on front and backfront and back

Neck and wrist Neck and wrist bands on bands on sweaterssweaters

Jersey KnitJersey Knit

Most common Most common knitknit

Plain, single knitPlain, single knit T-shirtsT-shirts

Tricot KnitTricot Knit Very fine vertical Very fine vertical

wales on the right wales on the right sideside

Stable knit – lies Stable knit – lies flatflat

Doesn’t run or Doesn’t run or ravelravel

Lingerie, Lingerie, underwearunderwear

Very fast to weaveVery fast to weave

Raschel KnitRaschel Knit

Uses extra Uses extra yarn to create yarn to create a patterna pattern

Non-wovenNon-woven

Leather, lace, Leather, lace, felt, disposable felt, disposable fabricsfabrics

Heat, moistureHeat, moisture Adhesive, Adhesive,

bondingbonding Yarns and layersYarns and layers

Non-wovenNon-woven

Interlocking Interlocking fibersfibers

Don’t fray or Don’t fray or ravelravel

FlexibleFlexible Might tear easilyMight tear easily

FeltingFelting

Hot washing and Hot washing and drying wooldrying wool

ShrinksShrinks Soft and fluffySoft and fluffy

InterfacingInterfacing

Very light to very Very light to very heavy and stiffheavy and stiff

Padding Padding (quilting)(quilting)

Fusible or sew-inFusible or sew-in

Fabric FinishesFabric Finishes

Special treatments applied to improve Special treatments applied to improve a fabric’s appearance, texture or a fabric’s appearance, texture or performanceperformance

““Gray Goods”Gray Goods”

Before any color Before any color or finish is added or finish is added to the product.to the product.

BleachingBleaching

Used to Used to remove remove impurities in impurities in fabric to ensure fabric to ensure a “true dye.”a “true dye.”

Yarn DyedYarn Dyed

Yarns are dyed Yarns are dyed before weaving or before weaving or knitting.knitting.

Good for plaids, Good for plaids, checks, and checks, and stripes. **stripes. **

Fiber Dyed **Fiber Dyed **

AKA “Stock AKA “Stock Dyeing”Dyeing”

Natural fibers Natural fibers dyed before spun dyed before spun into yarninto yarn

Uniform color Uniform color and good color and good color fastnessfastness

Piece Dyed**Piece Dyed**

Fabric dyed Fabric dyed after weaving after weaving or knittingor knitting

Garment DyedGarment Dyed

Fabric is cut Fabric is cut and sewnand sewn

Entire garment Entire garment or item is dyedor item is dyed

Printing TechniquesPrinting Techniques

Color is Color is transferred transferred to surface of to surface of fabric to fabric to form a form a patternpattern

RollerRoller

Printing pres Printing pres with circular with circular rollersrollers

One for One for each coloreach color

Rotary ScreenRotary Screen

Fast, Fast, inexpensiveinexpensive

3500 yards 3500 yards per hourper hour

Good for large Good for large designs**designs**

Texture and Performance FinishesTexture and Performance Finishes

Improves Improves surface feel of surface feel of fabricfabric

Improve Improve comfort and comfort and wear abilitywear ability

NappingNapping

Raised, Fuzzy Raised, Fuzzy FabricFabric

SizingSizing

Extra body and Extra body and weightweight

Adds StarchAdds Starch

WeightingWeighting

A textured finish applied to make the A textured finish applied to make the garment stiffer and heavier looking than it garment stiffer and heavier looking than it isis

Advantage is to use a cheaper lighter Advantage is to use a cheaper lighter weight fabric and make it appear stronger weight fabric and make it appear stronger than it really isthan it really is