Department of Textiles Department of Textiles

WEAVINGWEAVING

TEXTILES PRODUCTION FLOWTEXTILES PRODUCTION FLOW

YARN MANUFACTURING (SPINNING)

YARN MANUFACTURING (SPINNING)

TEXTILES PROCESSING TEXTILES PROCESSING

TEXTILE RAW MATERIAL(NATURAL/MAN-MADE)

TEXTILE RAW MATERIAL(NATURAL/MAN-MADE)

GARMENT MANUFACTURINGGARMENT MANUFACTURING

FABRIC MANUFACTURING (WEAVING/KNITTING)

FABRIC MANUFACTURING (WEAVING/KNITTING)

FABRIC MANUFACTURINGFABRIC MANUFACTURING

Fabric construction involves Fabric construction involves the conversion of yarns, and the conversion of yarns, and sometimes fibres, into a sometimes fibres, into a fabric having characteristics fabric having characteristics determined by the materials determined by the materials and methods employed .and methods employed .

Flow chart of fabric productionFlow chart of fabric productionFabric production techniquesFabric production techniques

Interlaced

Non- Interlaced

Woven knitted Net Lace

Braid

Felting Bonding Laminating

Weft type warp type raschel tricot

Basic weaves Fancy Weaves

Plain Twill Satin Pile

Jacquard Dobby Gauze

Non Interlaced Fabrics Are Non Interlaced Fabrics Are Produced ByProduced By

FeltingFelting

Bonding Bonding

laminatinglaminating

Interlaced Fabrics IncludeInterlaced Fabrics Include

Woven fabricsWoven fabricsKnitted fabricsKnitted fabricsNet Net LaceLaceBraidBraid

KnittingKnittingIt is a method of fabric construction which It is a method of fabric construction which employees a continuous yarn or set of yarns to employees a continuous yarn or set of yarns to form a series of interlocking loops.form a series of interlocking loops.

Types of knitted fabricsTypes of knitted fabrics

Knitted fabrics include:Knitted fabrics include:Weft types Weft types Warp typesWarp typesRaschel Raschel Tricot etc.Tricot etc.

WEAVINGWEAVING

Production of fabrics by interlacing two sets of yarns Production of fabrics by interlacing two sets of yarns ( the warp & the weft yarns) so that they cross each ( the warp & the weft yarns) so that they cross each other, normally at right angles, usually accomplished other, normally at right angles, usually accomplished with a with a hand- hand- oror power-operated loom power-operated loom..

HISTORYHISTORYExamples of prehistoric textiles are extremely rare Examples of prehistoric textiles are extremely rare because of the because of the perish abilityperish ability of fabrics. The earliest of fabrics. The earliest evidence of evidence of weavingweaving, closely related to basketry, , closely related to basketry, dates from Neolithic cultures of about 5000 BC. dates from Neolithic cultures of about 5000 BC. Cotton was used in India by 3000 BC.Cotton was used in India by 3000 BC.

General Theory Of WeavingGeneral Theory Of Weaving

Woven cloth is normally much longer in one Woven cloth is normally much longer in one direction than the other. The lengthwise direction than the other. The lengthwise threads are called the threads are called the warpwarp; the other threads, ; the other threads, which are combined with the warp and lie which are combined with the warp and lie widthwise, are called the widthwise, are called the weftweft (synonyms are (synonyms are ""fillingfilling," "," "woofwoof," and "," and "shootshoot," or "," or "shuteshute"). An "). An individual thread from the warp, of indefinite individual thread from the warp, of indefinite length, is called an length, is called an endend; each individual length ; each individual length of weft, extending from one edge of the cloth of weft, extending from one edge of the cloth to the other, is called a to the other, is called a pickpick, or , or shotshot. .

Grey Cotton FabricGrey Cotton Fabric

The grey yarn obtained from The grey yarn obtained from spinning without any wet process of spinning without any wet process of prior dyeing and then woven into a prior dyeing and then woven into a fabric is called a grey cotton fabric.fabric is called a grey cotton fabric.

Flow chart of weaving for grey cotton fabricFlow chart of weaving for grey cotton fabric

Warp Preparation Weft Preparation

High Speed Warping

Sizing

Drawing- in (knotting-in)

Looming-in

Weaving

Pirn Winding

WARPING PROCESSWARPING PROCESS

Function of this process is to Function of this process is to assemble a group of warp threads assemble a group of warp threads onto a beam in sheet form. In this onto a beam in sheet form. In this process, yarn is wound onto a process, yarn is wound onto a warper’s beam.warper’s beam.

SizingSizing Function of this process is to apply size to Function of this process is to apply size to

the warp threads. At the end of this the warp threads. At the end of this process weaver’s beam is produced. This process weaver’s beam is produced. This process increases the weaveablity of the process increases the weaveablity of the warp threads.warp threads.

Objectives of sizing:Objectives of sizing:Smoothness of yarnSmoothness of yarnElasticity of yarnElasticity of yarnPliability of yarnPliability of yarn

Drawing-inDrawing-in Function of this process is to pass the Function of this process is to pass the

warp threads through the ‘heald warp threads through the ‘heald wires’ and ‘reed’ according to the wires’ and ‘reed’ according to the design.design.

Knotting-inKnotting-in Function of this process is to tie or Function of this process is to tie or

twist the threads of exhausted beam twist the threads of exhausted beam to the threads of fresh beam.to the threads of fresh beam.

Looming-inLooming-in Function of this process is to load and fix Function of this process is to load and fix

the drawn-in weaver’s beam onto the the drawn-in weaver’s beam onto the loam and thread the warp sheet in such a loam and thread the warp sheet in such a way that the loom becomes ready for way that the loom becomes ready for weaving.weaving.

Pirn windingPirn winding Function of this process is to wind weft Function of this process is to wind weft

yarns on a Pirn. Pirn is a bobbin which yarns on a Pirn. Pirn is a bobbin which fits into a shuttle and supplies the weft fits into a shuttle and supplies the weft yarn.yarn.

ShuttlesShuttles

PIRN WINDINGPIRN WINDING

Passage of yarns through different parts of Passage of yarns through different parts of a looma loom

SIZING MACHINESIZING MACHINE

Basic weavesBasic weaves

Basic weaves include:Basic weaves include:

Plain weavePlain weaveTwill weaveTwill weaveSatin weaveSatin weave

Plain weavePlain weave In the plain weave, each In the plain weave, each filling yarn passes over filling yarn passes over and under the warp and under the warp yarns, with the order yarns, with the order reversed in alternating reversed in alternating rows. Fabrics made in rows. Fabrics made in the plain weave include the plain weave include percalepercale, , muslinmuslin, and , and taffetataffeta

Twill weaveTwill weave Twill weaves are Twill weaves are

made by interlacing made by interlacing the yarns in a the yarns in a manner producing manner producing diagonal ribs, ridges, diagonal ribs, ridges, or Wales on the or Wales on the fabric. Twill fabrics fabric. Twill fabrics include; include; denim, denim, gabardine, flan and gabardine, flan and the herringbone.the herringbone.

Satin weaveSatin weave

Satin weaves have a sheen Satin weaves have a sheen produced by exposing more produced by exposing more warps than fillings on the warps than fillings on the face of the fabric. The face of the fabric. The exposed warps are called exposed warps are called floatsfloats. The amount of twist . The amount of twist in the yarns and the length in the yarns and the length of the floats produce of the floats produce variations. Fabrics made in variations. Fabrics made in these weaves include these weaves include slipper satin, satin crepe, slipper satin, satin crepe, andand variousvarious sateen sateen types.types.

The Three Basic WeavesThe Three Basic Weaves

LoomsLooms

These are the machines used for weaving These are the machines used for weaving cloths. Looms are frames or machines cloths. Looms are frames or machines made of wood, metal or plastic. There are made of wood, metal or plastic. There are many different kinds of looms but all many different kinds of looms but all looms perform the same function of looms perform the same function of holding the warp threads under tension in holding the warp threads under tension in an orderly manner and weaving the cloth.an orderly manner and weaving the cloth.

MOTIONS OF A LOOMMOTIONS OF A LOOM

There are three types of motions for the There are three types of motions for the weaving process in a loom.weaving process in a loom.

Primary MotionsPrimary Motions Secondary MotionsSecondary MotionsAuxiliary MotionsAuxiliary Motions

PRIMARY MOTIONPRIMARY MOTIONSS

Primary motions are those which are Primary motions are those which are compulsory for the weaving process. compulsory for the weaving process. Without these weaving is impossible. Without these weaving is impossible. The order of primary motion is also The order of primary motion is also essential.essential.

TYPES OF PRIMARY MOTIONSTYPES OF PRIMARY MOTIONS

Primary Motions include:Primary Motions include:

SheddingSheddingPickingPickingBeating -upBeating -up

SHEDDINGSHEDDING This motion separates the warp sheet into two groups This motion separates the warp sheet into two groups

so as to make a gap known as the shed for the so as to make a gap known as the shed for the insertion of pickinsertion of pick..

PICKINGPICKING This motion propels a weft thread (a pick) through This motion propels a weft thread (a pick) through

the shed.the shed.

Beating-upBeating-up This motion pushes a newly inserted pick to the fell This motion pushes a newly inserted pick to the fell

of the cloth.of the cloth.

SECONDARY MOTIONSSECONDARY MOTIONS

The basic purpose of these motions is The basic purpose of these motions is to enable the weaving process to be to enable the weaving process to be continuous.continuous.

TYPES OF SECONDARY MOTIONSTYPES OF SECONDARY MOTIONSThe secondary motions includeThe secondary motions include::

Let -off motionLet -off motionTake -up motionTake -up motion

Let off motionLet off motion The basic function of this motion is to unwind warp The basic function of this motion is to unwind warp

threads from weaver’s beam in such a way that fresh threads from weaver’s beam in such a way that fresh warp is presented to the weaving area under warp is presented to the weaving area under controlled tension & at the required rate.controlled tension & at the required rate.

Take up motionTake up motion The basic function of this motion is to wind the The basic function of this motion is to wind the

woven cloth on to the cloth roller at a specified speed.woven cloth on to the cloth roller at a specified speed.

AUXILIARY MOTIONSAUXILIARY MOTIONS The function of these motions is to increase the The function of these motions is to increase the

quality and the production of the fabric.quality and the production of the fabric.

Auxiliary motions include:Auxiliary motions include:Warp break stop motion.Warp break stop motion.Warp protector motion.Warp protector motion.Weft break stop motion.Weft break stop motion.Weft replenishing motion.Weft replenishing motion.Multiple shuttle box motion.Multiple shuttle box motion.

CLASSIFICATION OF LOOMSCLASSIFICATION OF LOOMS According to shedding motionAccording to shedding motion

Tappet Shedding Tappet Shedding

In this motion 2-8 heald shafts can be used.In this motion 2-8 heald shafts can be used.   Dobby Shedding Dobby Shedding

In this motion 2-24 heald shafts can be used.In this motion 2-24 heald shafts can be used.   Jacquard Shedding Jacquard Shedding

In this motion 2-2600 heald shafts can be used.In this motion 2-2600 heald shafts can be used.

Classification of looms depending on picking motionClassification of looms depending on picking motion

Shuttle loomsShuttle looms Hand loomsHand looms

Power loomsPower looms

Shuttle-less loomsShuttle-less looms Air jet loomAir jet loom Water jet loomWater jet loom Rapier loomRapier loom Projectile loom Projectile loom

OLD HAND LOOMSOLD HAND LOOMS

POWER LOOMSPOWER LOOMS

The Dobby MechanismThe Dobby Mechanism