TEXTILES REVISION Fabric construction:

NATURAL FIBRES: Animal: wool, silk, alpaca, angora, cashmere etc. Plant: cotton, linen, jute, hemp SYNTHETIC FIBRES: elastomeric, acrylic, PVC, polyester, nylon, Tactel REGENERATED FIBRES: viscose, lyocell, acetate, cupro, modal, tencel

Spinning: Worsted – smooth

Woollen – hairy

WOVEN FABRICS: interlocking threads or yarns

WEFT: run horizontally WARP: run vertically

They… fray easily when cut strongest along the grain lack elasticity stronger and firmer the closer the weave is

KNITTED FABRICS:

Made from YARN in a series of INTERLOCKING LOOPS

They are ELASTIC, WARM (trap air) and can be NAPPED or BRUSHED, making them FLUFFY

Spinning

Weaving/

Knitting

Fibre Yarn Fabric

WEAVING

PLAIN WEAVE:

Lots of variations possible Strong Hard wearing Used for fashion and furnishing

fabrics

SATIN WEAVE:

WEAKEST of all weaves Shiny ‘snags’ easily Used to produce polyester satin Strong warp-wise Drapes well

TWILL WEAVE:

Strong Drapes well Used on jeans, uniforms and jackets

BASKET WEAVE:

Traditionally used to make baskets Can be used for textiles Patterns can be made

Construction - Over one, under one Selvedge – doesn’t fray Bias – diagonally across the weave so that fabric stretches

Construction – over 2, under 2 (weft moves over 1 warp thread each time) Pattern – forms a diagonal pattern

Construction – warp: over 1, under 3. Weft: over 3, under 1 Weft thread – lies on the surface

Construction – over 2, under 2

KNITTING

WEFT KNITTED:

Made by hand or machine Stretch and comfortable Used for socks, jumpers and T-shirts

WARP KNITTED:

Made by machine only Less elastic + firmer Used for swimwear, underwear and

geotextiles

Construction – horizontal rows Interlocking loops Ladders

Construction – vertical columns Interlocking loops Doesn’t ladder

NON-WOVEN FABRICS:

Made from RAW fibres using: CHEMICALS – to mat the fibres together

HEAT – to bond the fibres together STITCHING

– the fibres together in layers

They do not have a GRAIN, don’t STRETCH or FRAY easily, not as STRONG as knitted or woven and are PERMEABLE

They can be MOULDED, made from RECYCLED FIBRES, CHEAP, weaker when

WET, easily PILL

NON-WOVEN FABRICS

WOOL FELTS

Fibre web is squashed together with

moisture, a machine and heat The fibres become tangled Used for hats, jackets, slippers

NEEDLE FELTS

Fibres are passed through lots of

barbed needles, dragging the fibres up and down, forwards and backwards, tangling the fibres

BONDED FABRICS

Used for disposable fabrics such as

cleaning cloths, medical masks, table linen

Used for interfacing and stiffening

Construction – Fibres are matted together Made from animal hair or wool

Construction – Fibres are tangled and interlocked

Construction – Fibres are bonded together using adhesive, solvent of lines of stitching

LAMINATED FABRICS

GORETEX and SYMPATEX Fabrics can be made waterproof and

breathable

Construction – fabrics are bonded together for extra properties

SSSMMMAAARRRTTT TTTEEEXXXTTTIIILLLEEESSS

Materials that can RESPOND TO EXTERNAL STIMULI or ACTYIVATED BY INTERNAL OR EXTERNAL POWER SOURCES

GORE-TEX

Laminated membrane Breathable Lightweight Waterproof Used on jackets and

shoes

MEMORY TEXTILES:

Shape memory polymer

Temperature-sensitive foam used to

mould to match the body pressuring

against it

Useful for the elderly and disabled

COULD be used for medicine and

keyhole surgery

ELECTRO TEXTILES:

Textiles can be combined with

electronics to create products

with soft keyboards to provide

additional functions

Wearable textiles

Soft, washable fabric with

optical and electrical fibres in it

COULD be used for shirts for

parental use on babies and for

military use MICRO-ENCAPSULATED

Scents and smells are released

SLOWLY

Children’s toys

Moisturised tights

BODY ENHANCING FABRICS

Create a sense of well-being

Medicine plasters with painkillers

Anti-stress or clam inducing properties

THERMOCHROMATIC FABRICS

Dyes that change colour in response to temperature

Used for novelty products and medical uses

(wound dressings to indicate infection)

UV-REACTIVE FABRIC

Dyes used respond to light/ sunlight –

can produce interesting patterns

Used for novelty products, to measure

sun exposure or military clothing which

adjusts according to the environment

PHOSPHORESCENT

FABRIC

Transform invisible forms of

energy into visible light

Dyes can be IMPREGNATED

with phosphorescence which

traps and stores energy from a

light source and makes it ‘glow

in the dark’

Dye can be a surface coating,

printed on as a pattern or woven

or spun

Used for children’s novelty

clothing, clubbing wear and

high visibility safety garments

PHASE-CHANGING FABRIC

Outlast® uses wax in tiny micro-capsules which can be applied

as a finish or incorporated into the fabric

Wax changes from solid to liquid in warm temp, absorbing the

body’s heat and keeping it cool. If the temp falls, the wax will

solidify and give heat back to the body

Energy is ABSORBED and RELEASED from the wax

Used for active sport wear , walking wear and survival wear

BIO-MIMETIC FABRICS

Stomatex© mimics nature

It is the science of understanding how nature can respond

automatically to changes

Only the top layer reacts to change and it is made of 3 layers

Neoprene = core layer, knitted nylon fabrics on either side.

The stomatex has domes in the surface of the fabric which

have tiny holes that allow moisture and heat to move away

from the body

Used for diving suits, active sportswear and protective wear

Combining fabrics and fibres

Interfacing fabric (such as Vilene) – can be stitched or laminated to other fabrics. This reinforces, stiffens and gives strength to collars and cuffs to prevent the fabric from stretching or sagging.

Quilted fabric - two or more layers sewn together to give an attractive appearance and added warmth.

Gore-Tex – can be laminated to another fabric using adhesive or heat. Gore-Tex is used for all-weather clothing and shoes because it is breathable and waterproof.

Kevlar – a high-strength, lightweight and flexible fibre. It is used in bicycle tyres, racing sails and police bullet-proof vests because of its high strength-to-weight ratio.

Thinsulate – a highly insulating but thin fabric. The microfibres in Thinsulate are fine and capture more air in less space, making it a better insulator. It traps air between the wearer and the outside. It can be machine washed and dry cleaned, and is breathable as well as moisture resistant. Scuba divers wear a Thinsulate suit under a dry suit when diving in cold water.

There are two ways of mixing fibres:

Blending –when fibres are mixed together at the spinning or spinneret stage, meaning that different fibres are DISTRIBUTED throughout the fabric

Includes: polyester and cotton

Mixing – two different yarns are used during the weaving process, one for the warp, one for the weft

Includes: nylon and wool and acrylic and wool

ADVANTAGES:

- Improves fabric performance

- Reduces costs

- Different textures can be achieved

- Interesting colour effects can be achieved due to

different absorbencies

SILK

The only NATURAL

FILAMENT FIBRE

Properties:

Very smooth

Cool next to the skin but warm too

Holds 30% of its moisture before

feeling damp

Dyes well – absorbed into centre

Little twisting is needed, making fabric

soft and shiny

Does not crease easily

Strongest natural fibre

Disadvantages:

Expensive to produce and buy

Needs to be laundered carefully

WOOL

Any type of animal hair

(sheep, lama, alpaca, angora rabbits and goats)

Properties:

It has a natural ‘crimp’ – makes it elastic and

crease resistant

Warmest natural fibre – overlapping scales

trap air

Heat and moisture can mould the fibres

Can absorb 30% of its mass in water without

feeling wet (hollow centre)

Water repellent – natural oil in the fibres

Disadvantage:

Hairy surface – can irritate the skin

Shrinks when washed harshly – overlapping

scales become tangled

COTTON

Made from CELLULOSE

Properties:

Strong when wet

Centre is hollow, moisture can be absorbed easily

– can hold 65% its own weight without dripping

Dyes easily

Easy to launder, washed at high temps

Cool to wear – fibres are smooth and do not trap

heat

Disadvantages:

Creases easily – needs frequent ironing

Takes a long time to dry

Stains are absorbed

NATURAL FIBRES

LINEN

A cellulose fibre BUT

Stiffer, stronger and firmer than cotton

Properties:

Very absorbent – suitable for towels

Dyes well

Strong when wet, easier to launder

Dries quicker than cotton

Smooth fibres=smooth fabric

Cool to wear

Shinier than cotton

Disadvantages:

Creases easily – needs frequent ironing

Stiffer than cotton – less supple

More expensive than cotton

SYNTHETIC FIBRES

NYLON

Properties:

Strong and elastic

Easy to launder

Dries quickly

Keeps its shape

It is resilient

Thermoplastic – reshaped (permanent

pleats)

Smooth fibres – shiny fabric

Disadvantages:

Collects static electricity

Damaged by high temperatures

Feels cold to touch

Does not absorb body moisture

Uses:

Shorts swimwear, bedspreads and

draperies. (basically clothes)

POLYESTER

Properties:

Resists wrinkling

Strong and hardwearing

Easy to launder

Dries quickly

Resistant to stretching and shrinking

Thermoplastic – can be reshaped

Disadvantages:

Can be damaged by heat

Feels cold to the touch

Does not absorb moisture

Uses:

Clothing

Sports clothing

Curtains and draperies

ACRYLIC

Made to resemble wool. Fibres are

CRIMPED or spun to trap air

Properties:

Soft and warm

Thermoplastic

Dries quickly

Lightweight

Dyes well

Crease resistant

Disadvantages:

Easily damaged by heat

Collects static electricity

Not as warm as wool

Not as absorbent as wool

Uses:

Knitwear, blankets, fake fur for

toys etc.

POLAR FLEECE

Advantages:

Soft and comfortable to wear

Warm but light weight

Hydrophobic and breathable

Environmentally friendly – made from

recycled plastic bottles

Machine and dries quickly

Alternative to those allergic to wool

Dries very quickly

Warm even when wet

Disadvantages:

Flammable so needs to be treated

Non-renewable resource (oil)

Doesn’t absorb water as well as natural

Generates static

Not windproof

Can be damaged by high temp washing

MICROFIBRES

Polyester or nylon microfibres are 60 to 100 times finer than a human hair. They can be blended with SYNTHETIC or NATURAL fibres and are used for clothing for outdoor pursuits and active sportswear.

Thermoplastic polyester or nylon microfibres can be heat-treated to give them coils, crimps and loops, which makes these textured yarns stretchy and warm. They are used for underwear, sportswear, knitwear and carpets.

SMART MATERIAL

MATERIAL THAT CAN RESPOND TO EITHER EXTERNAL STIMULI OR ACTIVATED BY INTERNAL OR EXTERNAL POWER SOURCES.

They can be incorporated by embroidering them or priming them on.

NANO-FIBRES

Tiny molecules, one billionth of a metre in length. If you add these molecules to fibres you can improve them on a molecular level. They can be used so that the fabric will repel water, wont stain or won’t creaser when washed.

TECHNICAL TEXTILES

TEXTILES WHICH ARE MANUFACTURED FOR FUNCTIONALITY AND TECHNICAL PERFORMANCE. THE VISUAL APPEARANCE IS LESS

IMPORTANT.

They are used in industries such as: Aerospace Medicine Military Health and Safety Transport GeoTextiles

FIT FOR PURPOSE?

Fibre content: should you use natural or synthetic fibres? Fabric construction: should you use woven, knitted or non-woven? Manufacturing processes: should you use dyeing, printing, mechanical

finishing or chemical finishing? End use of the fabric: what are you making, e.g. jeans, sportswear or a

seatbelt? Maintenance: what are the aftercare requirements of the product?

The fibre content, fabric construction and finishing processes determine the fabric's aesthetic, functional and comfort properties.

LABELLING: They are controlled by legislation to contain:

Fibre content (in descending order) Chemical names of materials used Standard number(s) – to show which standards it meets Country of origin Product details – type, size, style etc. Safety advice – keep away from fire etc. care instructions

Other things can be: retailers logo retailers store and product number for tracking a barcode Ethical information – organic etc.

How it protects you Example

Trade Descriptions Act Statements about the product must be true A 'waterproof' product must not let in the rain

Sale of Goods Act The product must be of satisfactory quality The product must perform as expected, e.g. it should not fall apart after being worn only once

Consumer Safety Act Nightwear Safety Regulations protect children aged between three months and 13 years from fire hazards

Children's nightwear, including threads and decoration, must carry a permanent label to show that they meet the flammability standard

The Weight and Measures Act

It is illegal to sell products that weigh less than the amount on the label

The Textiles Products (Indication of Fibre content) Regulation

It is a legal requirement to state the fibre content of a fabric on a label, in descending order using chemical names

Dying

Hand dyeing

In hand dyeing, fabrics are immersed in

hot or cold dyes in a dye bath. The dye

bath is agitated so the dye reaches all areas.

When the desired colour is achieved the

fabric is removed and rinsed to remove

excess dye. Then it is fixed with a mordant

or a fixing agent such as salt. The strength

of a dye colour is determined by the:

amount of time in the dye bath

absorbency of fibres

original fabric colour

concentration of the dye colour in the

dye bath

effective use of a mordant or fixative

Commercial dyeing

Continuous dyeing

The fabric is passed through a dye bath,

and then squeezed between rollers to spread

the dye evenly and remove excess.

Continuous dyeing is used for colours that

do not need to change too quickly with

fashion.

Batch dyeing

Fabrics are produced without dye. Instead,

they are dyed to order in large batches

according to the colours required. Batch

dyeing is used for fabrics that have to

change in colour frequently because of

fashion.

Block printing

Block printing is done using metal or

wooden blocks, one for each colour. The

background shapes are cut away to leave a

raised design on the block (cut in relief).

Dye is applied and stamped onto the fabric.

This is a slow process used by specialised

craft industries.

Screen printing

A pattern is printed onto fabric through a

stencil held in place by a screen. Each screen

prints one part of the design in one colour. After

printing the dyestuff must be fixed using steam

or dry heat.

Industrial flat-bed printing

Industrial flat-bed printing automates the

screen printing process, with the fabric moved

through the machine on a conveyor belt and

the print repeating rapidly.

Rotary screen printing

Uses CAD and roller squeegees. One roller is

used for each colour. This is a very fast

process used in the continuous printing of

furnishing and clothing fabrics.

Resist dyeing: This stops the dye penetrating certain areas of the fabric to produce a pattern. Two main methods:

1. Tide dye – a traditional technique and strong or elastic is used as the ‘resists’. It is done on natural fabrics and creates interesting effects

Stage Process Preparation of fabric

Wash any finish out of cotton fabric so that dye can penetrate the fabric. Fold or scrunch up fabric. Tie with string/elastic bands

Preparation of Dye

Mix up dye with salt and fix.

Applying Place in dye Finishing Remove from dye.

Rinse out excess dye. Dry

Take off string

Press with iron

2. Batik – fabric blocks, brushes or tjanting tools are used. It is a traditional technique used on natural fabrics and the wax prevents the dye reaching the fabric. unique and original designs can be produced, but it can be time consuming and the wax is very hot

Stage Process Preparation of fabric Wash any finish out of cotton fabric so that

dye can penetrate the fabric.

Preparation of Dye Mix up dye with salt and fix.

Applying Apply wax onto design where you want to keep the colour. Apply dye to fabric by painting or dipping. When dye is dry apply the next layer of wax onto next colour. Repeat stages to build up pattern.

Special effects Scrunch up fabric and crack the wax. Apply dye to the cracks. Or

Scratch away wax and apply dye.

Finishing Melt wax off the fabric by placing fabric between wallpaper and ironing.

Appliqué: Fabric shapes are sewn onto a background fabric using a fine zigzag or straight stitch. Interface is often used and this method can be used to create

SIMPLE or ELABORATE designs. Molar (reverse appliqué) involves fabric appliquéd on underneath the background fabric. This method of decoration adds COLOUR and TEXTURE. It is safe to use on children’s items and is useful to hide tears or damaged clothing. Skill care and practice are required and I can be time consuming

Quilting: Texture and warmth is created by sewing through layers of fabric and wadding in geometrical patterns. This can be time consuming but it can be difficult to handle a lot of fabric and wadding. This technique can also be combined with patchwork.

Patchwork: Small sections of different fabrics are sewn together to form a design – often geometrical. It is a good way of recycling but is time consuming.

Embroidery: Can be done by hand, machine or CAD/CAM. Hand – slow but it can be very detailed and uses a variety of threads and stitches. Machine – quite quick to do and uses preset stitches. CAD/CAM – designs can be built into the memory or designed. It is repeatable, good quality and quick. The machine is expensive.

Decoration and enhancement

Beading: Sequins or beads can add colour and texture. If done by hand, it is slow to do. Shisha mirrorwork- small mirrors are sewn on, held with a special embroidery stitch, it is slow and intricate. It is a traditional Indian technique.

COMPONENTS:

Component Uses Advantages

Covered Buttons Cushions Curtains Bed linen

Can provide an interesting contrast or blend in with background

Stud fastenings Jackets Waistbands Bag fastenings

Quick and easy to use

Eyelets Often used where lacing is used e.g. Shoes Draw string bags

Firm when closed, roomy when open Hard to break/destroy (prolong life of garment/product)

Ribbon Fastening on aprons Decoratively on clothes and bags

Range of colours Decorative Strong when knotted

Lace

As a decorative feature at the top of vest tops/dresses

Decorative Feminine

Braid (tassley bits) Lampshades Curtains Upholstery

Various colours available Make a product stand out

Buckles Belts Shoes Bags

Strong Decorative Available in a variety of sizes/styles

Zips Dress Jeans Bags

Can be concealed Strong when done up Stay in position

Iron on/sew on motifs

Caps School uniforms

Easy to apply Individualize products

Dyes Use to colour yarns or fabrics

Natural fibres – reactive dyes or acid dyes Synthetic fibres – disperse dyes

Thread

Threads are used to put a product together.

Different threads can be chosen according to the fabric and end use of the product Can be used for hand embroidery

Bindings ‘narrow fabrics’ and cover a seam

Available in different colours Can be used in a decorative and/or functional way

Interfacing Used to reinforce or add stability to fabrics

Fusible and applied by heat

Component Uses Advantages

Conductive thread

Looks and behaves like normal thread, but it is very conductive

It does not fray No loose ends of filaments except where it has been cut

Conductive Velcro

Ideal to use as a switch in electronic textiles products

Easily cut to size It can be combined with conductive thread, it will complete the circuit

Sewable LED Used to attach up to 15 LED’s using conductive thread

Colour-changeable RGB LED’s

Build in a flashing or fading circuit and the use of buttons to support and place LED’s

They do not need a circuit They can be put in parallel and connected to a battery and they will work

Light emitting fabrics

Light element fibres are woven into fabrics and emit light

Light is “subtle and mysterious”

E-fibres Thin-film electronics Can be integrated through

weaving

Textiles switches Fabric based switches can be integrated into clothing to give it a different purpose

It can be washed

Bio-monitoring They monitor and report details about a soldiers health and condition

You can track how well the soldier is coping and when he needs help

Product analysis

Involves: disassembly This helps to develop a new product or improve an existing one

You have to…

Ana

lyse

the function The type

Design features Construction methods Fibre type/content Any specialised fabrics used If it was made with environmental issues in mind

Ass

ess

The ergonomics of the product The size (using standard ANTHROPOMETRIC measurements) The number of components, parts or pattern pieces Possible method of manufacture The cost of the product If it can be made with fewer components, parts or pieces

Iden

tify

Any environmental issues (such as method of applying colour, fibre used, recycling possibilities and the life cycle of the product)

Colour application method Method of applying embellishments Any trimmings used ands where they’re applied All components used The care label Finishes applies and how they affect the product Any legal of BSI standards relating to the product Method of fabric construction Sizes the product is available in

Product specification:

Identifies the materials and equipment

needed to make the product in the

prototype stage

Manufacturing specification:

Made after the product has undergone final

modifications

Provides material and equipment lists

Identifies all the tasks that need to be completed,

in sequence, to manufacture the product

Design specification

Created from the DESIGN BRIEF after

RESEARCH

Sets out the ESSENTIAL and

DESIRABLE criteria

In order to evaluate a product, a design specification is needed so you can check: If it meets all the criteria in the design specification If it is fit for purpose If it is suitable for the target market If it is safe to use/wear If it is well made

Quality assurance: a GUARANTEE of quality

Documents are produced outlining the systems used to ensure quality is maintained Quality needs to be checked as its being designed, during manufacture and at the

end of manufacture This ensure products are HIGH QUALITY and FIT FOR PURPOSE

SOCIAL, CULTURAL AND ENVIROMENTAL ISSUES

Societal / cultural / moral factor Impact

Lifestyle and fashion Gender images and peer group pressure. Clothing, accessories and styling of fashionable celebrities. Brand loyalty.

Development of new street fashions, style and colour trends. Development of new marketing strategies.

Trend forecasts Available as a commercial service aimed at fashion industry professionals worldwide. Retail organisations, manufacturers, designers and consultants frequently subscribe to keep up to date.

Various professional trend forecast services judge and identify emerging trends and predict future trends. Fashion industries can find guidance as to the lengths, shapes, colours and styles of garments and accessories to be designed and made.

Globalisation Availability of cheap labour in the developing world. New global market for textile fashions. Increasing awareness of textiles from other cultures. Consumer reaction against corporate trends.

Textiles costs are driven down in a global marketplace for textiles. Growing demand for traditional and ethnic textiles as well as modern ones.

Environmental concern Worries about pollution of rivers and beaches from textile processes. Growing support for recycling.

Development of new recycled fabrics (e.g. Polartec, Tencel). Preference for higher-cost traditional fabrics (e.g. wool) over synthetic ones. Enforcement of laws to protect the environment.

Ethical trading Cheap products being bought and sold means there are continuing poor conditions for workers in LEDC’s If the product is ethically produced, then it can be put on the label Fair-trade mark – guarantees customers that the farmers and workers have been paid a fair and stable price which covers the cost of sustainable production

Laundry and Aftercare of Textiles Washing textile products has a huge impact on

the environment - use of energy powering the machines and heating water, detergents going into the drains and chemicals used in Dry cleaning.

Solutions are to wash at lower temperatures, avoid dry clean only and to use non bio detergents.

You should always buy an A rated washing machine as these are more efficient and save energy.

Ethical and Fair Trading To make cheap clothing/products companies have

to produce their products abroad where wages are a lot less than in the UK

Companies should make sure that all areas of manufacturing and production meet certain standards and that poor working conditions and exploitation of workers should not be allowed, including sweat shops and child labour.

Fairtrade means that producers get a fair, realistic price for their product that covers the price of producing it.

The production of cotton is very hazardous with the use of poisonous pesticides used frequently. The use of these pesticides poisons the cotton labourers, even killing some of them. Organic cotton is grown without pesticides so is better for the environment and the workers.

Eco label The European Eco label can be used on

products that contain no harmful

substances and cause minimum damage

to the environment.

Recycling All textiles products can be recycled by taking

them to a Charity shop or collection bin in Recycling Centres. These clothes are often sent for use abroad.

Some textiles are recycled and reused for patchwork or rag rugs.

Plastic bottles are recycled to produce Polartec Fleece, often used for outdoor clothing.

Recycling reduces the need for new materials and reduces waste going to landfill or incinerated.

Packaging Textiles companies are trying to reduce the

use of packaging in order to make the Textiles industry more environmentally friendly.

Packaging should be recyclable or biodegradable (rot away)

Waste from Textiles Processes Dyeing produces contaminated water and

poisonous chemicals; it also uses energy to heat water and power machines.

To reduce waste the dying industry could use natural dyes or cold water dyes to reduce chemicals and energy costs.

Finishing of fabrics uses a lot of different chemical in the processes which are a hazard to the environment.

Waste from production processes should be reduced to prevent it going to landfill.

Transportation Costs Products made abroad in countries such as India and China have to be shipped back to the UK

to be sold. The shipping of these products causes pollution and damage to the environment

whether it is by air or sea. Despite the cost of shipping it is still cheaper to produce clothing

abroad than in this country.

Health and Safety at Work Act 1974 Workplace (Health, Safety and Welfare) Regulations, 1992

COSHH – Control of Substances Hazardous to Health regulations 2002 Protects employees from the hazards of substances used in the work place through risk assessment

Spreading or cutting Potential hazards: Injuries to fingers or hands

from spreading or cutting machines

Finger or hand injuries from pressing mechanisms

Safety guidelines: Add safety guards Learn the correct way to

handle the equipment

Sewing Potential hazards: Injuries to fingers or hands

whilst cleaning or repairing Eye injuries Finger injuries from needles Injuries from assorted

equipment Safety guidelines: Switch machine off when

cleaning or repairing Adjust eye guards Keep fingers away from

needles Put equipment away after

use

Fusing Potential hazards: Finger and hand injuries in

the press Safety guidelines: Check safety guidelines

Pressing Potential hazards: Scalding from steaming

equipment Finger or hand injures from

pressing equipment Safety guidelines: Only turn on steam function

when ready to use the steam

Operators must be well trained in the use of the machine before use

Stain removal Potential hazards: Breathing in solvent vapours

Safety guidelines: Rooms where solvents are

used must be well ventilated

Dyeing or printing equipment Potential hazards: Inhalation of dye dust Inhalation of dye vapours Staining of skin with dyes

Safety guidelines: Wear appropriate mask and

eye cover Ensure correct ventilation Wear protective aprons and

gloves

General working area Potential hazards: Tripping or falling Electrical injury Incorrect handling of

materials Incorrect lifting

Safety guidelines: Work area to be kept clean

and tidy Never use a machine with

damaged covers Don’t carry too many things

at once Learn the correct way to lift

EQUIPMENT

Colour and design equipment

Batik – pots are heat resistant and used to melt wax. Tjantings are used to draw on fabrics with hot wax

Screen printing – applies patterns onto fabrics. A screen with a special mesh is placed over the fabric. A squeegee is used to push the pigment through the mesh onto the fabric

Fabric crayons and pens – dyes in a solid form, can be used on both synthetic and natural fabrics. Ironing on the reverse can set the design, allowing it to be washed safely at 40˚C

Pressing equipment

Irons – used to press garments and to finish them Heat press – transfers printed designs from specialist paper onto fabrics.

Can also be used to pleat fabrics and create special effects

Sewing machines

Standard – joins fabrics and does simple embroidery. It has limited features Embroidery machine – has additional features to a standard machine and can

create lots of different decorative features Computerised – an advanced sewing machine with many features. It is

controlled by a computer interface and can produced digitalised designs sent from a computer

Overlocker – a specialised sewing machine used for joining and finishing fabrics. It gives seams a professional finish and can also be used decoratively

Other machines

Knitting machines – used to create fabrics, garments and textile products that are patterned or textured. They can be linked to a compute to speed up manufacture

Weaving looms – hand, ground, backstrap and frame looms are used to produce fabrics. These can also be linked to a computer.

Colour and design equipment

Dressmaker’s mannequins – used to obtain the correct size and fit for a garment, it can be adjusted to different measurements

Scissors – come in many shapes and sizes, each having a different purpose, e.g. pattern cutting and pinking

Pinking shears – have serrated edges for finishing off the edges of fabrics to prevent fraying or to produce decorate edges

Tape measure – used for measuring out patterns or garments. Can be curved easily, making them ideal for textiles

Embroidery frames – used to hold fabrics in place and can be used for hand or machine embroidery

Production/manufacturing methods

One-off or job production A single textiles product is made to a client’s

specification. It is developed from a basic pattern which is then

altered to meet the client’s needs. A toile is made to test style

and fit, then it is made from the chosen fabric. The product is

made by a small team or individual from start to finish. The

operators are highly skilled and use versatile equipment. This

has a high cost of production

Just In Time production Everything is brought in quickly

and they are shipped out as soon as they are

completed. It increases profit but it is vital

that supplies arrived on time and completed

products leave on time.. it means less space is

required for storage and no money is wasted

on surplus stock. Any mistakes result in a

hold up Batch production Set quantities of textile products are made to order. A

prototype is made to test the design before it is produced in

different colours and standard sizes the quantity can vary. It

is more economical and manufacturing costs are low. Usually

for seasonal demands, such as swimwear. Production costs are

considerably less than for individual production. It is flexible

and can be easily changed for new orders. A variety of styles

can be made quite quickly. Flexible working conditions. Staff

can be trained. Lower production costs. However, Equipment

needs to be restarted after a production run. Time is lost

making changes to the production run. Stock needs to be

stored.

Mass production Industrial scale manufacturing of large quantities of

products, usually on a production line. Suitable for products

that do not need to be redesigned and are required in very large

numbers, e.g. socks, jeans, towels etc. the products are not

complicated and can be made cheaply

Production line The work flows in a straight line

through work stations. The work moves to the

worker and when it is done, it moves on to

the next worker. This can lead to RSI and it

can be boring. Any problems can result in

the whole line stopping

Cellular work Small groups work on a range of

skills where they can rotate their work. It

gives workers greater skills flexibility and

team members are responsible for more than

one task. The whole team is responsible for

the whole product. Product changes are easy

to do

Toiles:

A prototype usually made from cheap fabric, such as calico. They are useful as:

They show how the finished product may look Help to identify modifications to the pattern before production begins Cost can be estimated based on production methods The number of pattern pieces can be evaluated and reduced to make it less

expensive Allows the designer to identify the most efficient methods and procedures

for manufacture

Quality assurance:

A guarantee of quality

Quality control checks are carried out to ensure this

Components are checked on size, appearance, form, colour,

flammability and performance.

Product and manufacturing specifications say when these checks

are carried out

Questions can be used to ensure everything is of appropriate quality

Computer Aided Design

CAD is any designing done using or with the help of a computer. Before CAD, colour ways, changing size, motifs etc was done by hand, drawing or painting each change, it was a very slow and costly process. CAD allows designs to be completed very quickly and changed almost instantly.

Advantages of Computer Aided Design

Quick to change colours of a design

Quick to change the scale of a motif on the design

Quick to change design details of a design - sleeve type, collar type, length of skirt etc.

A design can be 'mapped' onto a figure so that you can see all round it and how the fabric would drape, how a pattern repeats.

Repeat patterns can be created quickly.

Saves time of the designer as designs can be done so quickly, thus saving money, and potentially more designs created.

Reduces the amount of repetitive work that designers have to do.

Designs can be saved and used again.

Designs can be sent to the buyer for instant approval.

Can be linked to machinery to create a CAD/CAM machine, which designs and then makes the product. (CAD/CAM embroidery machine)

Disadvantages of CAD

Specialist Computer Aided Design software is very expensive to buy

Designers have to be trained to use the software.

Computer Aided Manufacture

The making of textile products where the machine is controlled by the computer.

Advantages of CAM

Reduces the time required to make the textile product.

Is very accurate, all products are made to the same specification (no human error)

Decreases cost of manufacture as not so many workers have to be paid

Less waste as no mistakes therefore decreases costs

Reduces repetitive work

Can work 24/7

Disadvantages of CAM

Very expensive to buy the machines and software that controls them.

Workers have to be trained to program the machine.

If the machine breaks it will probably need specialist parts to repair it and a long time to repair when it's not manufacturing products.

Processes carried out by CAM

Spreading and cutting out of fabric – Cuts many layers of the fabric at one time. Embroidery machine – embroidering many products at once + improves productivity