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Philippines, my visit to Owna and Alex, my feelings and emotions and some

GENERAL INFO AS TOLD BY PEOPLE OF MANILA, CEBU AND BOHOL-TOURIST GUIDES AND LOCALS. I share this with my friends in the hope you can enjoy a new country without having to board the plane.

MANILA: THERE ARE ELECTRIC TRAINS IN THE CITY, BUT MOST POPULAR TRANSPORT IS STILL THE GIPIES-LEFT OVERS FROM AMERICANS, OLD GEEPS CONVERTED INTO SMALL BUSES, AND THEN PEDICABS-BIKES WITH A COVERED SEAT CAR INTO WHICH A BIG PERSON LIKE ME DOES NOT FIT).

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HUGE DIFFERENCE IN HOTELS, THEIR LOCATIONS (MY ROTHMAN IS 3 STAR AND IN A VERY POOR AREA WHERE THERE USED TO BE SEX BARS-TO MAKATI SHANGRILLA-6 STARS IN A POSH AREA-WHERE THE TOUR OF MANILA STARTS FROM. OUR GUIDE NEIL HAS A LOT OF SENSE OF HUMOR! THERE IS ABOUT 14,000000 PEOPLE IN MANILA , INCREASED TO 15 MILLION IN WORK HOURS, BUT THE STREETS ARE FOR 3 TIMES LESS CAPACITY HENCE A PERMANENT TRAFFIC JAM; ONE FAMILY-AYALA-OWNS BIG PART OF THE CITY. THERE IS 50 YEARS LEASE ON PROPERTIES NOT 99 LIKE IN ABUDHABI AND OTHER COUNTRIES. IN 1988 A PRENUPTIAL AGREEMENTS BECAME A LEGAL REQUIRMENT. ALSO FOREIGNERS CAN ONLY OWN 40% OF ANY PROPERTY, SO IF AN AMERICAN MERRIES A PHILIPPINO THE PROPERTY IS 40/60 OWNED AND IF THERE IS A SEPARATION (THERE IS NO DIVORCE) UNLESS POPE SAYS YES (!)THIS IS APPLIED.IN CEBU I HAD TWO FISHERMEN OFFERS. AN OLDER WOMAN TRAVELLING ALONE MUST BE RICH THEY ASSUMED, HOW WRONG THEY WERE. I DID NOT EVEN DARE EAT IN RESTAURANS, JUST BOUGHT YOGURT BREAD AND BANANAS.

THERE ARE ABOUT 88% CATHOLIC, 5% MUSLIM AND THE REST OTHER-

THERE IS A RICH VILLAGE NEAR ARMY RESERVE-FORBES PARK, WHERE FOREIGN AMBASSADORS LIVE; LOTS OF NARA TREES-NATIONAL TREE-NATIVE MAHOGONY;

LOTS OF EARTH QUAQUES HERE, YESTERDAY WE HAD 11! LAST BIG ONE AOUT 400 YEARS AGO-

THE TALLEST BUILDING IS TRUMP TOWER-YES YOU GUESSED IT, TRUMP OWNS IT! I GET THE FEELING THAT AMERICANS ARE WELL LIKED: THEY HELPED THE LOCALS GET RID OF SPANISH AND THEY GIVE THEM GIFTS AND DON’T ASK FOR ANYTHING IN RETURN (HA!)

IN THE AMERICAN CEMETARY THERE ARE 17206 BURRIAL PLACES /CROSSES AND 36000 NAMES OF THOSE MISSING IN ACTION-AMERICAN AND ALLIAS.

I FOUND THE STORY OF NATIONAL HERO JOSE RIZAL FACINATING-HE GOT KILLED FOR WRITING TWO NOVELS ABOUT THE OPRESSION OF SPANISH AGAINST THE PHILIPINOS IN THE 1890TIES-WE DROVE PAST RIZAL PARK. SO THE STORY GOES THAT USA PLACED PHILIPPINES UNDER PROTECTION IN 1901 AND SPANISH WERE DEFEATED. IN 1521, FOR EXAMPLE, THIS COUNTRY WAS MADE UP OF MUSLIM SULTANS, BUT THE SPANICH LATER TOOK OVER;THERE IS OVER 7000 ISLANDS MAKING UP THE COUNTRY;MY GUIDE TELLS US THE SPANISH DID NOT WANT ALL THE ISLANDERS TO SPEAK SPANISH AS THEY WOULD THEN BE ABLE TO COMMUNICATE AND PLAN REBELLION! SO THERE ARE MANY DIALECTS

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HERE, TAGALO IS THE OFFICIAL LANGUAGE AND ENGLISH, AND THEN PEOPLE’S OWN DIALECT; HOWEVER, ALL THE WORDS FOR FOOD, DOMESTIC ACTIVITIES, CLOTHES, FURNITURE IN THE HOUSE ETC HAVE BEEN KEPT IN SPANISH, ACCORDING TO MY GUIDE, SO THAT THE MASTERS COULD ORDER THEIR SERVANTS ABOUT WORK AND WHAT TO COOK ETC.

I WAS AMAZED TO HEAR THAT THE BIGGER INCOME FOR THE COUNTRY COMES FROM ABOUT 10.3% OF WORKERS WORKING OVERSEAS AND SENDING MONEY HOME;SECOND IS FROM AGRICULTURE, THEN AGRICULTURAL EXPORTS THEN FROM TURISM-(ONLY ABOUT 4.2 MILLION TOURISTS A YEAR OF WHICH OVER 1 MILLION KOREAN)

PHILIPPINO IS KNOWN TO BE WITH HAPPY PREDISPOSITION: HARDLY ANY ROAD RAGE DESPITE THIS PERMANENT CAHOS! NOT MUCH SUISIDE EITHER;

APARENTLY THEY HAVE INHERITED THE MAGNANA ATTITUDE: IN NEGATIVE WAY, AS LAZINESS-I WILL DO IT TOMORROW

IN A GOOD WAY-IF I AM POOR AND ILL TODAY, DON’T DESPAIR, MAYBE GOD HAS SOMETHING BEAUTIFUL IN STORE FOR ME FOR TOMORROW! HARDLY ANY DEPRESSION OR SUISIDE!

DRIVING THROUGH PASAI WE SAW SQUATERS LIVING IN HORRIBLE CONDITIONS; HEY ARE NOT EVICTED BECAUSE AFTER 6 MONTHS IN ONE PLACE, THEY CAN VOTE;AND A POLITICIAN CAN BUY 1 VOTE FOR 500 PESOS SO THEY LET THEM STAY. MAKES ME CRY TO SEE THAT, AND THEN SM MALL OF ASIA, WITH 4.2 SQUARE METERS OF SHOPPING CENTRES, CINEMAS, and SPORTS COMPLEXES ETC FOR THE RICH NEXT DOOR. APARENTLY STATUS SYMBOL IS INCREDIBLE!

WE VISITED MANILA CATHEDRAL AND ST AUGUSTINE CHURCH-NOW UNESCO CLASSIFIED AS THE OLDEST LOCAL CHURCH- FROM 1607-WITH CHINESE LIONS IN FRONT-APARENTLY TO INVITE CHINESE PEOPLE TO BECOME CATHOLICS!

NOW ABOUT SOME PRICES: WHAT IS FOR TOURISTS AND WHAT IS FOR LOCALS?

IN THE ROBINSONS SUPERMARKET, I GET ONE KILO OF MANGOES-ABSOLUTELY DELICIOUS-FOR 86 PESOS (YES!), BUT 1 APPLE FOR 25 PESOS. 1 ICE CREAM FOR 65 PESOS, ONE POST CARD FOR 20 PESOS; 1 LOAF OF MULTIGRAIN 185, ONE MIXED NOODLES WITH VEGGIES 195-

2 GALLONS OF DRINKING BOTTLED WATER WHICH I ALSO USE FOR WASHING TEETHS AND MAKING COFFEE =240 PESOS; I PROMISSED MYSELF TO BE SUPER ALERT TO MY POOR HEALTH SO WE SHALL SEE-

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WHEN THE SHOWER WATER GETS INTO MY EYES I HAVE TO RINCE IT OUT WITH SODA BICARBONATE SO AS NOT TO GET INFECTIONS; I BROUGH WITH ME CUTTLERY, TEA COFFEE, MEDICINES, PREVENTION MEDICINES, ANYTHING TO STAY WELL- WITH GOD HELP. MY FRIEND FROM BOHOL TOLD ME NEVER TO BUY FOOD FROM TURU TURU-STREET STALLS, AS IT’S USUALLY CAT OR DOG MEAT-THERE ARE STALLS EVERYWHERE, PEOPLE COOKING AND EATING ALL THE TIME-YET STAYING SLIM-

MANILA IS MADE UP OF 16 OR 17 CITIES…1% RICH, 29% MIDDLE CLASS, THE REST POOR, OR SO MY GUIDE TELLS ME!

PAKI’-PLEASE; SALAMATIS-THANKS

CONSIDERING THAT YESTERDAY WE SPENT 6 HOURS IN TRAFFIC TO SEE A FEW ATTRACTIONS I AM TODAY GOING INTO THE COUNTRY!

Located 78 km south of Metro Manila lies Hidden Valley Resorts whose bewitching natural vegetation flourishes in a 110 acre crater 300 feet deep, believed to have been formed by a violent volcanic upheaval thousands of years ago.

Located between two mountains, Mt Makiling and Mt Banahaw - these two mountains have been for many years a major staple for local myths and folklores. The place boasts of an impressive collection of rare orchids and other exotic flora. Several naturally heated volcanic water pools are available for those want to take a refreshing dip so bring your swim suit!

Here I have to say something about the nature of the press; I was reading the local Manila Bulletin; (14/6/2016) from sport to international news, like Annual dialogue moves China-US ties forward, to a few page lift out on how to take good photos and participate in competitions, how 170,000 students have now returned back to school-to this:

1-Easy on the razor-a whole page article on dos and don’ts of shaving your underarms-

2-Love your lady bits-why too harsh washing &, shaving ,is bad for your vulva and the vagina, and how to let your lady bits breath-again, a very long informative article for women.

Such a refreshing thing, to see this kind of health topics in general press, not only in women’s magazines. Less reassuring to read about a neighbour who became a dog for a while as he mauled and stabbed to death his neighbour after a dispute!

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Some other facts from yesterday’s tour: Hidden valley tour, Alaminos, Laguna, 78 KM from Manila, and to get there it took us from 8.30 am to 11.20, am horrendous traffic jams. Located between two mystical mountains, MtMakiling and Mt Banshaw this little gem is 110 acres wide 300 feet deep crater of volcanic origin of warm and cool natural spring fed pools, falls, jungle walks and restaurant and some cottages where rich people stay.

Honestly, while I had a beautiful two hours there, the traffic to and from is just too much. I tried to change my today’s tour to Tagaytay-to avoid sitting in a car again for 6 hours, but it was not possible; but Alex WROTE IN HIS E MAILS: stay cool, be patient, be polite to the locals so I shall be all that.

Petrol at present is 1US$ per litre; an 8 seater Toyota we are using would be about 16,000 American dollars which, I am told, middle class people can afford on credit hence too many cars on the roads. Thank god they continue to build SKY roads (elevated).100KM is the biggest speed you can drive, they have 37 volcanos here of which 18 are active and about 20 typhoons per year. We are 2200 feet above the sea level, but views obstructed by mist and pollution fog. I cuddle a snake –python around my neck for the tourist photo…and am reminded of a similar photo taken in Thailand many years ago with Claude-snake around my neck while he looked on with terror in his eyes. Power lines are in some areas terrible, dangerous, too low, too many, and I am told that in Makati, they are now starting to put pedestrian crossings as well as power lines (both very deadly) underground. Coolest weather in January/December, when Manila can go as low as 17 and up in the mountains 12.

I see stray dogs and cats everywhere-as Alex told me, they are turned into big fat sausages they sell at street food stalls. Angie later told me dogs eat their own poo so these sausages are very unhealthy.

There is a local food chain store Philippine/Chinese owners, bigger that McDonalds! Jollibee-

17/6 HAPPY TO BE AT THE AIRPORT AWAITING FLIGHT FOR CEBU-AM THE ONLY NON PHILIPPINO. HAD TO PAY 400 PESOS FOR 2 EXTRA KILOS-DOMESTIC ALLOWANCE CHECKED 10KG;

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YESTERDAY ON THE LAST TOUR I WAS LUCKY TO HAVE A TRAVELLING COMPAGNION; AN AUSTRALIAN SEMI RETIRED TEACHER BRYAN WITH A Y! WE WILL ATTEMPT TO MEET UP AGAIN IN CAIRNS IN A FEW WEEKS WHEN WE ARE BOTH THERE; HE MADE ME LAUGH A LOT, DESPITE ALL MY WORRIES ABOUT MARINA AND MY BACK PAIN, I WAS ABLE TO FORGET A BIT AND IT WAS NICE. II think tours are overpriced considering we spend half the time stack in traffic jams’ and food -the included lunch not really nice enough.

(My PINAKBET- VEGGIES AND 3 SHRIMPS ON RICE!)

ON THE WAY HOME WE VISITED A VERY OLD CHURCH WITH A SPECTCULAR BAMBOO ORGAN AND ALSO THE GEEP FACORY WHERE LOCALS ARE RESTARING AND RE BILDING AMERICAN TYPE GYPS-SEE PHOTOS-

Apparently Philippines also have a senior’s discount scheme for those over 60-20% off and a health card.

It is Tuesday 21st June and I have some catching up to do; I am now with Owna, she often knows who I am, kiss me and holds my hand. This morning I showed her a photo of her and me in Hobart Botanical gardens, we have been talking for about 2 hours in French. She said: Look at this, we were together then and we are together now; a real nice friendship.”

This statement makes my trip worthwhile in every way, it was right to come. But to just go back for a few days:

Flight Manila Cebu all good, and hotel thee terrific, Radisson blue; my first tour is Island hopping with Island tours, and it’s a disaster: overpriced at 5360 pesos, the driver takes me to a port-Cordova, and I have to cross some dangerous wooden bars to get onto BANCA, plywood and bamboo boats with a noisy engine! When I learn I will be alone with 3 blokes for a full day out in the sea I say NO, so they take me to another one where two young Japanese girls are also complaining they don’t want to be alone so we are matched up and 4 guys, with not much English, take us out; at the first island, we are not allowed to go on shore, even though I need a toilet and change room; I am shown a wooden box on our boat that has a hole in the ground; we snorkel and see some nice colourful fish but all the coral is dead.Thee is a sign Gilutongan on the island. Apparently there are about 2.6 million people in Cebu, 20% Chinese descent-Taoist.

Second island we get to get off but must pay extra, troll, finally we compromise to stop we tour the little village, we

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try to snorkel but nothing to see; the third island is a marine sanctuary and they serve us lunch there, interesting, too much meat, no veggies or salads. We are not allowed to snorkel, we are getting upset; then we are told we are going back and we say we paid for 4 islands and have not snorkel enough; we tell them to take us to the 4rth, but they don’t want to, they ask for more money, they say they don’t have enough PETROL! so finally we compromise to stop at another island closer to port-and again apart from a few nice star fish, dead coral. We are furious and to make the tour really crappy, they unload us-no other word-on the rocks, where we get bruised, but thanks god our two cars are there with the drivers so we say good bye and return to hotels. I tell the Japanese girls to come and see the beauty of our barrier reef.I LODGED A COMPLAINT AND THE TOUR COMPANY SAID THEY SACKED THE BOAT GUYS BUT WHO KNOWS.

Next day I have half day tour with hotel agent-South wind, my tour guide is Hazel and she is excellent and professional; we visit the oldest 340 years old Chinese house with lots of lovely antiques. By the way the Chinese introduced nails to the Philippines, who gave them gold in exchange.

Then we visited Heritage monument build in 2000 acknowledging important meetings in the country’s history, Then Madgellan cross in memory of the Portuguese who it is said conquered the Philippines , on behalf of Spanish, with a cross not a sword. It’s now totally protected because the locals were cheeping off the timber and boiling it as sacred medical tea! Then to Basilica del Santo nine were a mass is on so no photos allowed…built in 1566;amazing to see masses of people everywhere, in and out of church in their Sunday clothes, flowers balloons listening to the priests. Then Beverley hills-Taoist temple, yes built by an American; massive property on a top of a hill, no poverty here, very beautifully maintained. I asked my guide about major sports for men and women-she says basketball boxing soccer;

About health-there is a high incidence of diabetes and high blood pressure due to high consumption of sugar and rice and fatty meats. Cebu Island from North to South is about 270KM; Arizona is just a bit smaller than Philippines.

Pension contributions are mandatory even for those working overseas and sending money home, so much better prepared for

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old age BUT-obviously by seeing so much poverty pollution and mess everywhere these pensions are far from enough?

SM is the third biggest mall in the world; we drive past the newest addition, in the shape of the boat, with over 1000 shops. It is not possible for me to understand the polluted-dirty streets, shabby houses, dogs everywhere, and on the other hand very clean and neatly dressed people and big shopping malls. The owner was a shoe maker who made it rich (S M).

We then stop and Fort St Pedro-built in 1565 is the smallest and oldest fort built by the Spanish and triangular in shape-all made from coral stones. To protect from Asian pirates and native Philippines-

AND FINALLY, WITH A FERRY I CROSS FROM CEBU TO BOHOL; the trip is uneventful as you cannot see through the windows. At the port are Angie and a private taxi, as Alex appears too ill to drive his car. I pay 900 pesos. I am happy to be finally with people I know, I did not feel safe in certain areas of the country, and I did not feel respected. Alex later confirmed that locals think all tourists are rich Americans who don’t tip enough etc. Owna, dear Owna, was a bit confused and spoke a few sentences in English, and every one kept saying my name to her but it took her quite a while to recognise me. It was only once we started speaking French, that she found a way into our past. But it was not Hobart/Tasmania, it was Paris. Somehow all the French conversations we had, day after day, and old letters and cards we read, and old names popping up-Patricia,Hillary,Michelle and Pnina and David, she recognised all the names, and asked how they all are.SHE ASKED ME:MAIS VOUS CONNAISSEZ PNINA?MAIS VOUS NÉSTES PAS JUIVE??I TOLD HER WE ALL KNOW EACH OTHER BECAUSE OF HER, OUR FRIEND OWNA!

I do hope that Alex can bring back lots of things from her home, so that in her room she feels at home; now she often thinks she is in a hotel and often says she needs to pack her bags and go home. One of the saddest things was when she said:

DANIJELA J ÁI PEUR DE MOURIR. NON, JE N ÁI PAS…MAIS J ÁI PEUR DE MOURIR LOIN DE CHEZ MOI :

**Scared of dying far from home. )

I was very worried that day and I spoke to Alex about it, she was so weak, I felt she was going to die. But we talked some

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more, and by the evening she had forgotten it all. One of the problems with dementia is that many times people around us put everything that happens down to dementia, but we must always remember that the person , despite illness, reminds very emotional, with needs and wants and fears and joys. I remember that once my mum had to go into residential care, we transferred her furniture, her own bed, linen, paintings, books,into her new room, so she had less confusion.

So to all those who love and respect her, be assured she is well, loved and cared for by her carer and every member of the household. Alex admits feels too much pain seeing her LOST, but Owna is still very resilient and finds peace in her solitude and is self-sufficient. She said some incredible sentences:

Il ný a rien a faire ici; Cést pas une vie-rien ne se passe, on ne peut discutter rien (she probably did not know that this is due to her speaking French and not much English). One day when we were all together, she was giving me compliments, and Alex and I had to laugh:

“Vous etes belle Danijela, regardez vos belles jambs »…Oh, Owna always knew how to lift my morale.

To conclude; the house is in an isolated place, so I had to hire taxi and tourist guides (I still had a little money left); Alex allowed me to stay with them as there is no safe and clean hotel nearby. I will be for ever grateful to him and Angie and the friendly house maid and carer, who all gave me presents and hugs when we parted. They said Owna was totally different during my visit. I suffered heat and humidity very much, and had upset tummy often, so I bought myself lots of mangos and yogurts . When I took the taxi to the little Tagbilaran airport on my last day, I was so happy with my overall trip and of course, my time with Owna. How blessed I am having Owna in my life for all these years, her savoir faire, her wisdom, her elegance, her complete sincerity of soul, her tolerance of this world around us.

So, please forgive spelling mistakes; please forgive possible misinformation, I have no way of checking certain facts. The page of photos included is:

1-Island of Cebu, hopping onto the wooden boats; rubbish is a huge problem, you see it around poor houses, on streets, some

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burn it, some throw it into water. On the other hand, people are clean and well dressed.an old photo of Owna and me when we were young in Hobart (!)

Food-lots of different meats, very little veggies, hardly any salads. Great fruit. (Angie is a great cook-made us a cordon blu!)Angie & me on the way to Chocolate hills; map of Philippines, me -the tourist; the two friends; a note from Owna in her handwriting, but the words did not quite come-she is out of practice. mother and son; carer and Owna, and Chocolate Hills Alex house, Owna’s room right side ground .

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The house is by cliffs and the ocean, a spiritual place, but very isolated. It takes a special kind of person to find contentment. Owna with her new family;and Angie’s beautiful daughter. Unfortunately I did not see Moana who lives far away with Kathy…

DH July 2016

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