Cape Town City Guide

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Contents

Introducing Cape Town 5

City Life 7

Arts & Architecture 27Wine 39

History 53

Table Mountain National Park 65

Sights 77

Walking Tours 113

Eating 121

Entertainment 135

Activities 149

Shopping 159

Sleeping 171

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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AustraliaHead Office, Locked Bag 1, Footscray,

Victoria 3011,%03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111,

[email protected]

USA150 Linden St, Oakland, CA 94607,

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fax 510 893 8572, [email protected]

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Lonely Planet 2006Photographs Ariadne van Zandbergen and as

listed (p227) 2006

All rights reserved. No part of this publication

may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or

transmitted in any form by any means, electronic,

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suburbs, home to the vast majority of thecitys citizens. Friendly as Capetonians canbe to visitors, among themselves suspicionsand misinterpretations endure, and if youtake one of the deservedly popular tripsinto the townships (p81) youll be a stepahead of the vast majority of locals.

Seeing life in the townships may shock

and upset, but youll also discover its nota one-note story of grim survival. Thereare huge differences in lifestyle and manygreat examples of civic pride and optimismto balance against the shocking crime andHIV/AIDS statistics. And theres ubuntu,true African hospitality and care for fellow

human beings. Look across the city and youll also see people of all skin colours workingtogether to make Cape Town a better place for everyone. Discovering the Mother Citystrue diversity and spirit is all part of getting the most out of a visit here.

Reality check aside, Cape Town is an old pro at showing visitors a good time. Theremay not be game parks on Krugers scale, but there are plenty of great wildlife-spottingopportunities, from the penguins at Boulders to the antelopes, buffaloes and black rhinoat Solole Game Reserve. The restaurants and bars compare favourably with those of othercosmopolitan cities. Theres a lively cultural scene, particularly when it comes to music,which pervades every corner of the city, and if outdoor activities and adrenaline buzzesare your thing, youve come to the right place. As local troubadour David Krammerssing-along anthem for the Cricket World Cup has it, Welcome to Cape Town/Enjoy theparty/Come in and have some fun/Cape Towns number one.

The capital of Western Cape province and the parliamentary capital of the republic, CapeTown works in a way that so few cities on the African continent do. Historic buildings havebeen saved, businesses are booming, inner-city crime is coming under control and youllseldom be stuck for a parking space. Factor back in those stunning mountains, magnificentsurf beaches and outstanding vineyards and youll soon discover like many before you that its easy to lose track of time while exploring all the wonders of this unique SouthernAfrican city. Now dont you think its time you made a date with Cape Town?

6

www.lonelyplanet.com

LOWDOWN

Population3.1 million

Time zoneGMT plus two hours

3-star roomaround R800

Glass of wineR10 to R15

Shared taxi rideR3

Essential accessoryCraig Native T-shirt

No-noBanging your African drum on Cliftons No2 beach


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City Life

Cape Town Today 8

City Calendar 9

Culture 12Identity 12

Lifestyle 14

Food & Drink 17

Fashion 18Sport 19

Media 20

Language 20

Economy & Costs 21

Government & Politics 22

Environment 22Climate 22The Land 23

Green Cape Town 23

Urban Planning & Development 26


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Arts &Architecture

Architecture 28Dutch Colonial 28

British Colonial 29

Early Twentieth Century 29

Modern 30

Arts 32Visual Arts 32

Music 34

Literature 35

Performing Arts 36

Cinema 38


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Wine

History 41

Workers Wines 41

Varieties of Wine 42

Winery Tours 43

Wine Regions 44Constantia 44

Durbanville 45

Stellenbosch 45

Helderberg 47

Franschhoek 48

Paarl 51


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www.

SEIDELBERG Map p49

%021-863 3495; www.seidelberg.co.za; OTHER WINE REGIONS


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52

lonelyplanet.com

Wine

WINEREGIONS

%021 863 3495; www.seidelberg.co.za;

Suid-Agter-Paarl Rd, off Rte 101; tastings

with/without cellar tour R18/12;h9am-6pm

Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & SunTucked in between Fairview and Lands-kroon, serene Seidelberg offers an escapefrom the bacchanalian hordes. Uniquely

it features tours and demonstrations ofon-site bronze casting and glass-blowing,with a corresponding gallery. Theres arestaurant offering light meals and terrificviews, perfectly complemented by a strongselection of reds.

OTHER WINE REGIONSIf you have more time, a trip further afield to thewine-growing regions of Robertson (Map p186),Tulbagh (Map p186) and Darling (Map p186) shouldprove rewarding. Named, respectively, the Robert-son Wine Valley (%023-626 3167; www.robertsonwinevalley.com), the Tulbagh Wine Route

(%023-230 1348; www.tulbaghwineroute.com)and the Darling Wine Experience (%022-4923361), these areas are not as tourist-heavy as theCape Winelands yet still boast beautiful estates andexcellent wines.


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History

The Recent Past 54

From the Beginning 54The San & Khoikhoi Peoples 54

First European Visitors 55

The Dutch Arrive 55

The Settlement Grows 56

The British Take Over 57

Cape Economy Booms 57

Boer War & After 58

Apartheid Rules 59

Fictional Homelands 59

Mandela Jailed 60

The Coloured Experience 60Path to Democracy 62

Rise & Fall of Pagad 63

Shifting Alliances 63


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www.lone

Conscious of their core vote in the Cape Flats the ANC-led city council vowed toimprove the lot of township folk by upgrading the infrastructure in the informal settle-ments and investing more in decent low-cost housing, such as the N2 Gateway Project

Lonely Planet Publications


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64

elyplanet.com

History

FROMT

HEBEGINNING

g g y jalong the motor corridor linking the city with the airport. Urban renewal projects werealso announced for Mitchells Plain, one of the most populous coloured areas of the city.Meanwhile, the City Bowl and surrounding areas continued to benefit from increasedsecurity and the development of ritzy, loft-style apartments in grand, old structures suchas Mutual Heights (p97).

Full integration of the citys mixed population, though, is a long way off, if its achiev-able at all. The vast majority of Capetonians continue to live in the bleak, impoverishedcommunities of the Cape Flats, split along racial lines and suffering horrendous economic,social and health problems.

Mandela retires as ANC president, succeeded by Thabo Mbeki

1997

First of the returnees to District Six are handed keys to their rebuilthomes

2004

Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally

restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes

only. In other words, please dont upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to

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the above - Do the right thing with our content.


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TableMountain

National Park

History 66

The Land 67Flora 68

Fauna 69

Safety 70

Maps, Books & Websites 70

Sights 71Hiking 73

Climbing Table Mountain 74

Climbing Lions Head 74

Cape of Good Hope Trail 74

Guided Hikes 74Hoerikwaggo Trails 75

Sleeping 76Table Mountain 76

Cape of Good Hope Reserve 76


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Sights

Itineraries 78

Organised Tours 81

City Centre 92

City Bowl & Bo-Kaap 93Gardens & Surrounds 97

Atlantic Coast 99Robben Island 100

Green Point & Waterfront 101

Beaches & Suburbs 101

Southern Suburbs 103

Observatory 104Rondebosch & Pinelands 104

Newlands 105

False Bay &Southern Peninsula 106

Muizenberg 107

Zeekoevlei 108

St James 108

Kalk Bay 108

Fish Hoek 108

Simons Town 108

Noordhoek 109

Kommetjie 109

Cape Point 110

Cape Flats 110

Khayelitsha 111Guguletu 111

Langa 111

Victoria Mxenge 112


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Walking Tours

Art & Architecture Walk 114

History Walk 117

MuizenbergSt James Round Walk 119


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EatingCity Centre 123

City Bowl & Bo-Kaap 123Waterkant 127

Gardens & Surrounds 128

Atlantic Coast 129Green Point & Waterfront 129


Southern Suburbs 131Observatory 131Constantia 132

Newlands 132

Other Suburbs 132


Muizenberg 133

Kalk Bay 133

Simons Town 133

Noordhoek 134

Kommetjie 134


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EntertainmentDrinking 136

City Bowl 136Waterkant 138


Green Point & Waterfront 139

Atlantic Coast Beaches & Suburbs 140


False Bay & Southern Peninsula 141

Clubbing 142

Live Music 143Jazz 143

Rock & African 145

Classical 145

Theatre, Cabaret & Comedy 146

Cinemas 148

Casino 148

Amusement Park 148


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Activities

Health & Fitness 150Alternative Therapies 150

Cycling 150

Golf 151

Gyms 151

Health & Day Spas 151

Ice-Skating 152

Swimming 152

Yoga & Pilates 153

Outdoor Activities 153Abseiling & Kloofing 153

Diving & Shark-Cage Diving 153

Flying & Microlighting 155

Hiking & Climbing 155

Horse Riding 155

Hot-Air Ballooning 156

Kayaking 156Paragliding 156

Sailing 156

Skydiving 157

Surfing & Sandboarding 157

Windsurfing & Kite Boarding 158

Watching Sport 158Cricket 158

Soccer 158Horse Racing 158

Rugby 158


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Shopping

City Centre 161City Bowl & Bo-Kaap 161

Waterkant 163


Atlantic Coast 165Green Point & Waterfront 165





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SleepingCity Centre 172City Bowl & Bo-Kaap 172Waterkant 175


Atlantic Coast 178

Green Point & Waterfront 178Beaches & Suburbs 179


False Bay &

Southern Peninsula 182Muizenberg & Kalk Bay 182

Simons Town 182

Noordhoek & Kommetjie 183

Cape Flats 183


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Excursions

Wine Country 187

Nature & Hiking 187

Beaches & Swimming 188Scenic Drives 188

Villages & Towns 188

Stellenbosch 188

Franschhoek 193

Paarl 195

Hermanus 198

Gansbaai 201

Greyton & Genadendal 202

Langebaan &West Coast National Park 203

Paternoster 205Darling 206


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Transport 208Air 208Bicycle 208Bus 208Car & Motorcycle 209Rikki 211Taxi 211Train 212

Travel Agencies 212

Practicalities 212Accommodation 212


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Directory

Business Facilities 212

Business Hours 212

Children 213Climate 213

Customs 213

Discount Cards 213Electricity 213

Embassies & Consulates 213

Emergency 214

Gay & Lesbian Travellers 214

Health 214Holidays 214

Insurance 215

Internet Access 215

Legal Matters 215

Maps 215

Medical Services 216

Money 216

Newspapers & Magazines 217Pharmacies 217

Post 217

Radio 217

Safety 217Taxes & Refunds 218

Telephone 218

Television 219

Time 219Tipping & Bargaining 219

Tourist Information 219

Travellers with Disabilities 219

Visas 220

Women Travellers 220

Work 220


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Language

Afrikaans 222

South African English 224Xhosa 224


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Cape Peninsula Cape Peninsula

59

INFO

RMATION

58

57

(pp20812)

TRAN

SPORT

56

55

54

53

52

51

50

49

48

47

46

45

(pp17184)

SLEEPING

44

43

42

41

(pp15970)

SHOPPING

40

39

38

37

36

(pp13548)

ENTE

RTAINMENT

35

34

33

(pp13643)

DRIN

KING

32

31

30

29

28

(pp12134)

27

26

25

24

23

22

21

20

19

18

17

16

15

14

13

12

11

10987654321

112,pp14958)

USC

onsulate...................................

C4

WayneMotors.................................

C2

VirginAtlantic................................(see57)

SAA...............................................(see57)

Lufth

ansa.......................................(see57)

BritishAirways................................(see57)

AirN

amibia......................................

E3

Vicky

sB&B......................................

E3

SouthernRightHotel.......................

C5

Radebe'sB&B...................................

B8

MonkeyValleyBeachNatureResort..

B4

Male

bos..........................................

F4

Majo

rosB&B.................................(see52)

MaN

eo's.........................................

B7

Long

beachMall................................

B5

Long

Beach.......................................

B5

Kopa

nong.........................................

F3

Hunt

ersMoonLodge.......................

C3

Colette's..........................................

D2

Chill

&SurfBackpackers...................

B5

Steen

bergLifestyleVillage...............

C4

MilnertonFleaMarket......................

D1

KirstenboschCraftMarket................

C3

Cana

lWalk.......................................

D1

WestEnd.......................................(see36)

Swingers..........................................

D3

RatangaJunction..............................

D2

MaynardvilleOpen-AirTheatre........

C3

Long

beachMallCinema.................(see50)

Hano

verStreet...............................(see37)

GrandWestCasino...........................

D1

Galaxy.............................................

D3

Skebanga'sBar.................................

B4

Pedd

larsontheBend.......................

C4

Cobb

s...............................................

B6

Caff

Verdi...................................(see38)

Ce

ntre..........................................

B7

TsogaEnvironmentalResource

................

B3

..............(see12)

................(see5)

................

B4

..............(see20)

..............(see38)

................

A8

................(see5)

..............(see12)

................(see7)

.................

B7

................

B3

................

D2

up............

D3

................

F4

..............(see32)

................

C4

.................

E3

................

C4

..............(see20)

................

B5

................

B4

.................

E3

................(see6)

................

D4

.................

E3

................

D2

................

D1

..............(see44)

................(see9)

reness

................

C3

................

C3

................(see6)

................

D3

................

C5

...................B5

..............(see37)

Centre.........

A7

..................

C3

...................F3

..................

C4

..............(see44)

..................

C7

..................C3

..................

D2

..................

D2

59

INFO

RMATION

58

57

(pp20812)

TRAN

SPORT

56

55

54

53

52

51

50

49

48

47

46

45

(pp17184)

SLEEPING

44

43

42

41

(pp15970)

SHOPPING

40

39

38

37

36

(pp13548)

ENTE

RTAINMENT

35

34

33

(pp13643)

DRIN

KING

32

31

30

29

28

(pp12134)

27

26

25

24

23

22

21

20

19

18

17

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10987654321

112,pp14958)

USC

onsulate...................................

C4

WayneMotors.................................

C2

VirginAtlantic................................(see57)

SAA...............................................(see57)

Lufth

ansa.......................................(see57)

BritishAirways................................(see57)

AirN

amibia......................................

E3

Vicky

sB&B......................................

E3

SouthernRightHotel.......................

C5

Radebe'sB&B...................................

B8

MonkeyValleyBeachNatureResort..

B4

Male

bos..........................................

F4

Majo

rosB&B.................................(see52)

MaN

eo's.........................................

B7

Long

beachMall................................

B5

Long

Beach.......................................

B5

Kopa

nong.........................................

F3

Hunt

ersMoonLodge.......................

C3

Colette's..........................................

D2

Chill

&SurfBackpackers...................

B5

Steen

bergLifestyleVillage...............

C4

MilnertonFleaMarket......................

D1

KirstenboschCraftMarket................

C3

Cana

lWalk.......................................

D1

WestEnd.......................................(see36)

Swingers..........................................

D3

RatangaJunction..............................

D2

MaynardvilleOpen-AirTheatre........

C3

Long

beachMallCinema.................(see50)

Hano

verStreet...............................(see37)

GrandWestCasino...........................

D1

Galaxy.............................................

D3

Skebanga'sBar.................................

B4

Pedd

larsontheBend.......................

C4

Cobb

s...............................................

B6

Caff

Verdi...................................(see38)

Ce

ntre..........................................

B7

TsogaEnvironmentalResource

................

B3

..............(see12)

................(see5)

................

B4

..............(see20)

..............(see38)

................

A8

................(see5)

..............(see12)

................(see7)

.................

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................

F4

..............(see32)

................

C4

.................

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..............(see20)

................

B5

................

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.................

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................(see6)

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65 87

3 miles05 km0

ToPaarl(42km);

(20km);

(20km);

0km)

Johannesburg

(1400km)

ToSomerset

West(20km);

Strand,R44(24km);

Gordon'sBay,Hottentots

Hollandberge(30km);

CapeHangklip(50km);

PortElizabeth(750km)

Bellville

Khayelitsha

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Kuilsrivier

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CAPE PENINSULA Lonely Planet Publications


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(pp77

SIGHTS&

ACTIVITIES

Suikerboss

ie..............................

SilverTree

................................

RiverCaf.................................

NoordhoekVillageFarmstall.....

Mnandis...................................

Lupo's......................................

Lelapa......................................

LaColomb

e..............................

KirstenboschTeaRoom............

Jonkerhuis

................................

Eziko.........................................

WorldofB

irds...........................

VygerkraalStadium...................

VictoriaM

xengeWomen'sGrou

Tygerberg

TourismFacility........

TsogaTou

rs..............................

TokaiArbo

retum......................

Thundercity...............................

Steenberg

Vineyards.................

SololeWellnessCentre.............

SololeGam

eReserve................

SleepyHollowHorseRiding......

SivuyileTo

urismCentre............

RosiesSoupKitchen.................

Rondevlei

NatureReserve.........

PhilaniNutritionCentre............

Mowbray

GolfClub..................

Milnerton

GolfClub..................

ManukaC

af&FineWines......

Group...................................

Kommetjie

EnvironmentalAwar

KleinConstantia.......................

KirstenboschBotanicalGardens

KhayelitshaCraftMarket..........

Kenilworth

RaceCourse...........

JagersWa

lk.............................

ImhoffFar

m..............................

IceStation

................................

GugaSTh

ebeArts&CulturalC

GrootCon

stantia......................

GoldensF

lowers......................

Constantia

Uitsig......................

CapeWineAcademy................

CapePointOstrichFarm..........

Buitenverw

achting....................

AthloneSt

adium.......................

AthlonePowerStation..............

EATING

(pp77

SIGHTS&

ACTIVITIES

Suikerboss

ie..............................

SilverTree

................................

RiverCaf.................................

NoordhoekVillageFarmstall.....

Mnandis...................................

Lupo's......................................

Lelapa......................................

LaColomb

e..............................

KirstenboschTeaRoom............

Jonkerhuis

................................

Eziko.........................................

WorldofB

irds...........................

VygerkraalStadium...................

VictoriaM

xengeWomen'sGrou

Tygerberg

TourismFacility........

TsogaTou

rs..............................

TokaiArbo

retum......................

Thundercity...............................

Steenberg

Vineyards.................

SololeWellnessCentre.............

SololeGam

eReserve................

SleepyHollowHorseRiding......

SivuyileTo

urismCentre............

RosiesSoupKitchen.................

Rondevlei

NatureReserve.........

PhilaniNutritionCentre............

Mowbray

GolfClub..................

Milnerton

GolfClub..................

ManukaC

af&FineWines......

Group...................................

Kommetjie

EnvironmentalAwar

KleinConstantia.......................

KirstenboschBotanicalGardens

KhayelitshaCraftMarket..........

Kenilworth

RaceCourse...........

JagersWa

lk.............................

ImhoffFar

m..............................

IceStation

................................

GugaSTh

ebeArts&CulturalC

GrootCon

stantia......................

GoldensF

lowers......................

Constantia

Uitsig......................

CapeWineAcademy................

CapePointOstrichFarm..........

Buitenverw

achting....................

AthloneSt

adium.......................

AthlonePowerStation..............

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4

20

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5

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8

519

5 6 7 8

400m

0.2

miles

0 0

ToMelkboshstrand

SkydiveCapeTown

BluePeter

Langebaan(120

(7km)

ToBloubergstrand,

SeaPoint

Llandudno

Rondebosch

Goodwood

Parow

Clifton

HoutBay

Nyanga

Pinelands

Constantia

Noordhoek

Strandfontein

Milnerton

Observatory

Camps

Bay

Guguletu

ImizamoYethu

Athlone

Maitland

Vredehoek

Bishopscou

rt

Wynberg

Constantiaberge T

okai

Philip

Mu

izenberg

Table

Sandy

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Zandvlei

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IC

OC

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Claremon

t

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lan

ds

Wreckof

Romelia

Strandfo

ntein

SewageWorks

MinorRoadsNotDepicted

Rondevlei

Nature

Reserve

TableMountain

NationalPark

Table

Mountain

Tw

elv

e

Ap

os

tle

s

Hill

Signal

(352m)

(1000m)

Duiker

Island

FerryTo

Robben

Island(3km)

DiepRiv

er

Acacia

Park

Mon

te

Vista

Ph

Nyanga

Lansdowne

He

idevel

Netreg

La

Vasco

Lang

a

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Ken

tema

de

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kesi

de

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berg

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d

Diep

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f

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Craw

ford

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da

l

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itlan

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h

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ban

k

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bray

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tory

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altRiver

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dwoo

d

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ltemade

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ilan

d

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lana

de

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dstock

Cape

Town

Va

lsbaa

i

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Riv

Kirstenbosch

MainE

ntranceto

RyecroftGate

Entranceto

Kirstenbosch

Head(436m)

LittleLion's

See

Cape

Town

&Sou

thern

Su

burbs

Map

(p246-7)

SeeHoutBay

Map(p258)

See

En

large

men

t

N1

N1

N7

27R

M14

M5

27R

R102

M18

R310

R310

M63

M4

M5

M17

M64

M42

M3

M6

M6

Rhod

esDr

Chap

Peak

m

Dr

ansche

mat

VictoriaA

ve

River

Spa

Rd

Water

loo Rd

SteenbergRd

HoutBay

Jan

Smu

ts

MainRd

Main

Cons

tan

tia

Ladie

s Mile

an's

BadenPowellRd

Constan

tia

Rd

Tur

f

HallR

d

AvonwoodAve

MarineD

r Koeb

ergRd

Kli

pfo

ntein

Rd

Voortrekke

VanguardDr

LansdowneRd

VanguardRd

27

31 5

3

41

23

2

11

3 21

13

19

7

38

15

43

37

14

39

36

12

35

26

1

25

59

30

40

46

47

58

534

17

18

44

42

A

B

C

D

1 2 3 4244 245


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Documents

Cape Town City Guide