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VilsandiNational Park
Photo: Steller’s Eiders, M. Martinson Photo: Grey seal, M. Martinson
VILSANDI NATIONAL PARKis located in Kihelkonna and Lümanda Rural Municipalities,
Saare County. The history of the national park started already
in 1910, when the Vaika Special Protection Area for Birds, the
first SPA in the Baltic countries, was founded. The Vaika National
Nature Reserve, established in 1957, was renamed the Vilsandi
National Nature Reserve in 1971, which, in its turn, became the
Vilsandi National Park in 1993.
The main objective of the Vilsandi National Park is to protect
the coastal landscape and sea, the bird-rich islets and the
cultural heritage. The national park covers about 24,000 hectares
of land and sea area, which makes it Estonia’s largest marine
national park. The coastline of West-Saaremaa is well jointed
and involves numerous terraces, beach ridges, spits and coastal
dunes. There are more than 150 islands, islets, reefs and shelves
in the national park. This is the region in Estonia with the biggest
number of islands. Estonia’s westernmost point – Nootamaa
Island – is also located here. The national park is a part of the
Natura 2000 network and has been entered into the Ramsar
List of Wetlands.
The Vilsandi National Park is known as the “Birds’ Kingdom”.
About 250 species of wild birds, out of which 114 are nesting
species, have been recorded here. The area is an important
THE CENTER OF THE VILSANDI NATIONAL PARK is located in the Loona Manor House, constructed in the 16th century, where you are taken by a beautiful maple alley bordered with stone fences. The manor house received its classicistic appearance in the early 19th century. Besides the mansion, also the coach house, granary-drier, gardener’s house, cattle shed and milk cellar have been preserved in the big manor park.
A settlement site dating back to the Stone Age as well as ancient burial places are located not far from the manor. The settlement was once inhabited by seal hunters and sea fishers. In addition, an underground cemetery from the 13th century has been found here.
The information centre and exhibition pavilion work in the for-mer cattle shed. The visitors can see a permanent exhibition which gives a good survey of the region’s history and natural values. In the Loona stone house, fossils are exhibited. Most of them have been found in the national park.
A romantic old road will take you from the manor to the Kiiras-saare Port. In the Miku Forest Park near the centre there is a marked study trail, where you can test yourself with old work in the woods.
Photo: Kiipsaare Lighthouse, K. Paomees
Photo: Vilsandi rural landscape in the 1930s, archives of Saaremaa Museum
Photo: Hikers on Vilsandi Island, L. Sepp
Photo: Sea pea (Lathyrus japonicus maritinus), M. Sepp
Photo: Soeginina Cliff, T. Faust
Photo: Loona Manor House, L. Michelson
communities are alvars and alvar forests. The region is the edge of
the habitat range for numerous species of plants. More than 520
species of vascular plants have been found in the national park, the
shoreweed (Littorella uniflora), which grows in temporary shallow
brackish water puddles, being probably the most unique.
You can enjoy splendid views of the sea from the cliffs of Soe-
ginina and Elda. On the Soeginina Cliff, fossils from the Silurian
period can be found, and in the deciduous forest on the cliff plenty
of ivy (Hedera helix) grows. From the Soeginina Cliff you can have
a view of the reef of Innarahu, where grey seals often lie and in
the winters when the sea does not cover with ice also give birth to
pups. The surroundings of the Elda Cliff differ from Soeginina – the
top of the cliff is bare and down on the beach a beautiful limestone
floor is crops out.
CULTURAL HERITAGECultivation of land, cattle breeding and sea-related activities have
played an essential part in the formation of the landscapes of the
Vilsandi National Park. Windmills, sparsely populated villages and
the lighthouses of Vilsandi, Oju and Kiipsaare have been preserved
in the landscape. The villages are usually small with rows of stone
fences around and inside. The centres of former larger villages
were manors – Loona, Kuusnõmme and Atla. Only the Loona Manor
complex has persisted until today. Several military objects, dating
back to World War I and World War II as well as to the later Soviet
occupation period, lie in the national park. Hangars of float planes,
the officers’ casino and several other historical buildings have been
preserved in the Papissaare Port. A cobblestone road leads to Papi-
saare from Kihelkonna.
The intangible heritage of the Vilsandi National Park consists of
the rich local lore, traditional way of life and traditions as well as
of century-long natural science research.
nesting, stop-over and wintering site for birds. Different species
of gulls, ducks and terns nest on the islets and coast. The
rare species include the white-tailed eagle (Haliaetus albicilla),
Eurasian eagle owl (Bubo bubo), ruff (Philomachus pugnax),
and Baltic dunlin (Calidris alpina schinzii).
The most common large mammals are the elk (Alces alces),
red deer (Cervus elaphus), European roe deer (Capreolus capre-
olus), and wild boar (Sus scrofa). The national park also boasts
Estonia’s largest colonies of the grey seal (Halichoerus grypus).
The fish fauna is varied due to different marine habitats.
The species of European importance are the whitefish (Corego-
nus lavaretus), salmon (Salmo salar), river lamprey (Lampetra
fluviatilis), and bullhead (Cottus gobio).
The coastal areas are favourable habitats for the rare natter-
jack toad (Bufo calamita) and the shallow fresh water bodies
for the medicinal leech (Hirudo medicinalis), who has a very
peculiar way of life.
The national park is also rich in the species of insects. The
alvars offer habitats for dingy skippers, false heath fritillaries,
rattle grasshoppers and several other rare insects.
The mild maritime climate and the limestone soil have crea-
ted preconditions for varied plant cover. The prevailing plant
VILSANDI ISLAND is, from the east to the west,
about 6 kilometres long and, at places, 2 kilometres wide. The island
consists of two parts – Suur- (Big) and Väike- (Small) Vilsandi. The
narrow area between the two islands is called the sea of Vahemeri
(Mediterranean Sea). The local coastal landscapes are varied,
encompassing both dolomite cliff coasts and flat coastal meadows.
The seashore is vivified by junipers and reeds. When moving on
the coast, small islets can be seen everywhere in the sea, with the
islet of Vesiloo being one of the most beautiful ones.
The most typical plants of the island are the sea kale (Crambe maritima), sea wormwood (Artemisia maritima) and yellow dragon’s-
teeth (Tetragonolobus maritimus). The rare shining cranesbill (Gera-nium lucidum) and the Danish scurvy-grass (Cochlearia danica)
can be found on the stone fences and on the rocky coast. Several
species of orchids, such as the green-winged orchid (Orchis morio),
military orchid (Orchis militaris) and Baltic marsh orchid (Dactylor-hiza baltica) are common.
The permanent population arose on the island in the 18th century.
Their main sources of income were maritime affairs, fishing, and
cattle breeding. The island’s heritage landscape is vivified by post
windmills, stone fences, the Vilsandi lighthouse and the boathouse
of the sea rescue station. The Vilsandi lighthouse, built in 1890, is
the oldest preserved working lighthouse in Saaremaa. Not far from
it there is a weather station, where the maritime climate has long
been researched.
HARILAID PENINSULA Harilaid is an oblong peninsula with a wavy coastline in the north
of the national park. Some centuries ago Harilaid was still an island
but is now connected with the Tagamõisa Peninsula. Most of Harilaid
is covered with a pinewood and encompasses a lake arisen from
an old sea bay – Laialepa Bay.
As a result of eroding and heaping activity of the sea, the
coastline on Harilaid, especially on Kiipsaare Cape, is continuously
changing. For example, the Kiipsaare lighthouse was built in the
middle of the peninsula in 1933, but now it is far in the sea. In the
meantime, the lighthouse was leaning and was called the Saaremaa
Tower of Pisa, but now it is straight again.
The peninsula is characterized by varied flora, including the
co-vegetation of several protected plants. The rarest of them are
the sea holly (Eryngium maritimum), sand couch (Elymus farctus), creeping willow (Salix repens) and marsh pennywort (Hydrocotyle vulgaris). Abundant mosses and lichens grow on the dry heaths;
the sea pea (Lathyrus maritimus) and the European marram grass
(Ammophila arenaria) occur on the sandy coast. Harilaid is a stop-
over site for migratory birds. Steller’s eiders (Polysticta stelleri) stay
here overwinter. The amphibians are represented with the natterjack
toad (Bufo calamita) and the moor frog (Rana arvalis). Laevarahu
Reef is a resting site for grey seals.
KUUSNÕMME PENINSULA The Kuusnõmme Peninsula in the north-western direction is mostly covered with a pine forest, a part of which is made up by an old natural forest. The peninsula encompasses shallow lakes, which are called “eyes”. The rarities growing here are the white butterwort (Pinguicula alpina), Saaremaa yellow rattle (Rhinanthus osiliensis), and pale St. John’s-wort (Hypericum montanum) as well as some species of orchids, such as the sword-leaved helleborine (Cepha-lanthera longifolia), fly orchid (Ophrys insectifera) and Saaremaa marsh orchid (Dactylorhiza osiliensis).
As the peninsula is unpopulated and quiet, it is favoured by numerous birds and animals. Adders (Vipera berus) can often be met here as well as white-tailed eagles (Haliaetus albicilla) who like to sit in the old pine trees.
The Kuusnõmme Manor was established in the 16th century. In 1922, Tartu University’s Biological Station, headed by Prof. Johannes Piiper, was opened in the mansion. Furthermore, Tartu University’s experimental forest, so-called American forest, was established on the peninsula. Research and practical work in the area of the natio-nal park lasted for about 20 years. The manor house was destroyed by fire in 1984.
ADMINISTRATIVE AUTHORITYEnvironmental Board
Hiiu-Lääne-Saare Region22 Tallinna Str., 93819 Kuressaare
Phone +372 452 [email protected]
www.keskkonnaamet.ee
ARRANGEMENT OF VISITSNature Management Department
State Forest Management Centre (RMK)18b Viljandi Rd., 11216 Tallinn
Compiled by: M. SeppFront page photo:
Vilsandi Island, L. MichelsonLayout by: Akriibia Ltd
Printed by: Aktaprint PLC
© Environmental Board 2012
VILSANDINational Park
Photo: Sword-leaved helleborine (Hypericum montanum), T. Faust
DOS AND DON’TS FOR VISITORS ● You can move about on private land from sunrise to sunset unless
you do damage to the landowner. ● In case the private land is fenced or marked, you will need the
landowner’s permission. ● Drive your motor vehicle only on the provided roads and cycle
on the roads and paths.● Put up your tent and make a fire only in the prepared and marked
places (see the map). When leaving, be convinced that the fire
has been put out.● Keep your dog on the leash while moving about in the nature. ● You can pick berries, mushrooms and other forest goods in the
protected area.● Try to act without leaving traces in the nature. Take your rubbish
with you.● When fishing, follow the Fishing Act and the protection rules of
the Vilsandi National Park.
The study trails pass grazed areas, which may be surrounded with electric fences● Use provided passages and gates in order to go through the
fences.● Do not touch the wires and other metal parts of the electric fences
because they may be electrified.● To open the gates, use the plastic handles.● Close carefully all the gates behind you.● Do not disturb the cattle.
Käkisilma-Vilsandi Hiking TrailThe trail can be used when the sea is shallow and warm and the
current in the Käkisilma Canal is not strong. Before hiking, ask
for further information in the centre of the Vilsandi National Park.
When you see damage done to the nature or visiting objects, inform
the Environmental Inspectorate by phone 1313.
VISITING INFORMATIONInformation Centre of Vilsandi National Park
State Forest Management Centre (RMK)
Loona Village, Kihelkonna Rural Municipality
Phone +372 454 6880, +382 5301 2772
www.rmk.ee
Information Point of Loona Manor
Loona Village, Kihelkonna Rural Municipality
Phone +372 454 6510
www.loonamanor.ee
Tourist Information Centre
2 Tallinna Str., Kuressaare
Phone +372 453 3120, +372 455 0550
www.visitsaaremaa.ee
www.lymanda.ee
www.kihelkonna.ee
www.vilsandi.ee
www.saaremaanaturetourism.eu
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ivi s
kvN
aist
ekiv
imaa
Oos
te-
maa
Naist
ekiv
ikur
k
Süda
me-
rahu
Tori
pers
ealu
ne(S
ilm
a pi
daja
)
Silm
alõ
ugas
Ülb
aku
laht
Silm
a
Kat
ri lõ
ugas
Säär
eots
Silmaoja
Tõri
-jä
rvSa
lujä
rv Nos
sura
hu
Väi
ke-
Non
nijä
rv
Kara
la
1:50
000
Nais
teki
vim
aa
Vils
andi
saa
r
Haril
aiu
pool
saar
