2.012.01

Fabric Construction

Turning Yarn into FabricTurning Yarn into Fabric

WeavingWeaving: The : The process of process of interlacing one or interlacing one or more sets of yarns more sets of yarns at right angles on a at right angles on a loom.loom.

Warp yarns: Yarns that run lengthwise in woven fabric.

Weft yarns: Yarns that run crosswise in woven fabric.

Turning Yarn into Fabric Turning Yarn into Fabric (cont.)(cont.)

Grain: The direction of the lengthwise and crosswise yarns or threads in a woven fabric.

Bias: The diagonal grain of a fabric. The bias provides the greatest “give” or stretch in the fabric.

WeavingWeaving

Plain weave

Plain weave: The simplest weave in which the weft (crosswise) yarn is passed over then under each warp (lengthwise) yarn. Examples: Chiffon, seersucker, taffeta

A basket weave is one variation, with the weft yarn passing over two and under two warp yarns each pass.Example: oxford cloth

WeavingWeaving Twill weave: A weave in which the weft yarn is passed over and under one, two, or three warp yarns beginning one warp yarn back on each new row.

Used for durability, this weave produces a diagonal design on the surface.Examples: denim, gabardine

Twill weave

WeavingWeaving

Satin weave

Satin weave: A weave that produces a smooth, shiny-surfaced fabric resulting from passing the weft yarn over and under numerous warp yarns to create long floats.

Examples: sateen, satin

WeavingWeavingOther weaves•Pile weave—corduroy, velvet•Dobby—dotted swiss, pique•Jacquard—brocade, damask•Leno—fabrics with an open, lacy appearance

Weaving AssignmentWeaving Assignment

Using construction paper cut into strips about Using construction paper cut into strips about 1 inches x 11 inches you should recreate:1 inches x 11 inches you should recreate: plain weave plain weave twill weavetwill weave satin weavesatin weave

On the back of each weave:On the back of each weave: list the advantageslist the advantages list disadvantageslist disadvantages 3 examples of weave3 examples of weave

Knit FabricsKnit Fabrics StretchyStretchy DonDon’’t really ravel, but can t really ravel, but can ““runrun”” Flat Knitting – lies flat on the tableFlat Knitting – lies flat on the table

Circular knitting – Circular knitting – t-shirts with no seams, socks t-shirts with no seams, socks

Weft KnitWeft Knit

Hand knitting is “weft knit” Stretches in both directions Rib knit (for cuffs and collars) Jersey knit Interlock (t-shirt) Double knit

Warp KnitWarp Knit

Made with several yarnsUsually run-resistantTricot (lingerie)Raschel for lacey lookMilanese (obsolete)

Non WovensNon Wovens Often disposable Felt - crafts Lace Leather –

pig and cow Interfacing

Fabric Finishes

Fiber dyeing

natural fibers are dyed before they are spun into yarns. Allows for colorful yarns; (solution dyeing for manufactured)

Yarn Dyeing

yarns are dyed before weaving (used for plaids, checks, stripes)

Piece Dyeing

fabric is woven or knitted and then dyed

Garment Dyeing

fabric is cut and sewn in to the finished product, then dyed

Printing designs onto fabric

Roller printing: one plate for each color of the design (raised and low areas for color or no color)

Screen printing

mesh fabric is stretched over a frame, design is “burned” onto the fabric, colors are pressed through the mesh onto the fabric (large designs are best)

Rotary Screen Printing

combines screen and roller; faster than screen cheaper than rollers

Heat Transfer Printing

printed onto paper first, then heat set onto the fabric

(think t-shirts on the spot)

Digital Printing: computer designed; ink jet printer traces back and forth like a paper printer;

good for custom designing; expensive