Yarns Fabric Knowledge

8/11/2019 Yarns Fabric Knowledge

1/15

National Institute of Fashion Technology

HYDERABAD

Master of Fashion Management (2013-15)

FABRIC KNOWLEDGE FOR MERCHANDISERS

ASSIGNMENT1

YARNS

Submitted By: Submitted To:

Aditi Khanna (1) Mrs. T.Srivani

Isha Jain (13)


2/15

Yarns

Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibres, suitable for use in the production of

textiles,sewing,crocheting,knitting,weaving,embroidery,andrope making.

Thread is a type of yarn intended for sewing by hand ormachine.Modern manufactured sewing

threads may be finished with wax or other lubricants to withstand the stresses involved in

sewing. Embroidery threads are yarns specifically designed for hand or machine embroidery.

A yarn is an assemblage of fibres or filaments having asubstantial length and relatively small

cross section, with orwithout twist, being the end product of a spinning andwinding process

Yarn may be any of the following-

Number of fibers twisted together

Number of filaments without twist

Number of filaments twisted with more/less twist

Single filament

One or more strips cut by length of a sheet of material ofnatural/ synthetic or any polymer
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fibrehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Textilehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sewinghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crochethttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knittinghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Weavinghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Embroideryhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ropehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sewing_machinehttp://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a2/A_basket_of_yarn.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sewing_machinehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ropehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Embroideryhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Weavinghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knittinghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crochethttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sewinghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Textilehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fibre


3/15

Classification of Yarns

YARNS

SINGLE YARNS

SPUN YARNS

ROTOR YARNS

RING YARNS

WORSTEDYARNS

SEMI-WORSTED

YARNS

WOOLLEN

YARNS

FILAMENTYARNS

FLATFILAMENT

YARNS

TEXTUREDFILAMENT

YARNS

BICOMPONENTTAPE OR SPLIT

FILM YARNS

FANCY YARNS

ASSEMBLEDYARNS

FOLDED YARNS

FANCY YARNS


4/15

TERMS

Spun yarnis made by twisting or otherwise bondingstaplefibres together to make a cohesive

thread, or single. Spun yarns may contain a single type of fibre, or be a blend of various types.Combining synthetic fibres (which can have high strength, lustre, and fire retardant qualities)

with natural fibres (which have good water absorbency and skin comforting qualities) is very

common.

Filament yarnconsists of filament fibres (very long continuous fibres) either twisted together

or only grouped together. Silk is a natural filament, and synthetic filament yarns are used to

produce silk-like effects.

Texturized yarnsare made by a process of air texturizing, which combines multiple filament

yarns into a yarn with some of the characteristics of spun yarns.

Multifilament Yarn is a filament yarn made from multiple filaments, assembled with or

without twist.

Monofilament Yarnconsists of only a single continuous filament from man-made source.

Assembled Yarnstwo or more yarns which are wound side by side on to same package, but

without twisting around each other.

Folded or Plied Yarns are yarns made by twisting together. Two or more single (and/or

folded) yarns of the same or different types. Ex: 2 Ply (two singles)

Cords or Cabled Yarnsare yarns made by twisting together. Two or more ply or folded

yarns of the same or different types. Ex: 2,3 Ply Cord
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Staple_(textiles)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fibrehttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Synthetic_fibres&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silkhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silkhttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Synthetic_fibres&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fibrehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Staple_(textiles)


5/15

Properties of Spun, Filament and Combination Yarns

100%Spun Yarns: Warmth, Softness, Light Weight Ideal for T-Shirts, Sweaters and

Blankets

100%Filament Yarns: Smoother, Finer and Lustrous. Ideal for linings

Combination of spun and filament Yarns: Durable, Easy care, Comfortable, Suitable

for more applications.


6/15

Structure and Twists of Yarns

S- and Z-twist yarn

Yarns are made up of a number of singles, which are known as plies when grouped together.

These singles of yarn are twisted together (plied)in the opposite direction to make a thicker yarn.

Depending on the direction of this final twist, the yarn will be known as s-twist or z-twist. S-

Twist:Spirals run upwardto the left (clock wise) Z-Twist:Spirals run upwardto the right (anti

clock wise) Combination of S and Z twist: to produce crepe fabrics.

The purpose of twist is to hold the staple fibers together.

The twist could be used in different ways toembed different qualities to the yarn.

A yarn that is twist balanced will not tend to curl.

The direction of twist is also important for further designing as this can be used well by

designers.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plyinghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Yarn_twist_S-Left_Z-Right.pnghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Yarn_twist_S-Left_Z-Right.pnghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plying


7/15

Yarn twists parameters:

Amount of twist is designated as TPIturns per inch, which Affects appearance and durability of

the yarns.

Twist factor

The angle of twist is the factor that determines how the yarn will behave. Yarns with a low twist

level have a lower angle of twist, and will be relatively soft, bulky yarns. Yarns with higher twist

angles will be strong, lean and hard yarns. Over twisted yarns will have very high twist angles;

they will be very hard, weaker and snarl easily.

Typical twist factors:

Short staple end use Tex twist factor

Doubling weft 2900-3200

Ring weft 3200-3500

Ring warp 3800-4300

Voile 4900-5300

Crepe 5700-7700

Rotor 3700-4700


8/15

Twist Factor

Tan = d

l

l= 1/turns per unit length

d= /yarn tex

Therefore, tan = turns per unit length X /yarn tex

Turns per unit length = K/ /tex

Twist factor = turns per inch / /cotton count

Fancy yarns

Fancy yarns are explorations of the prior said attributes such as

Twist

Bulkiness

Color

Material

Blends and Mixes

Material(conventional/non-conventional)


9/15

Varieties

Boucle

Loop Gimp

Nep

Chenille

Corkscrew

Core spun

Types and characteristics of yarns

1. Single yarns

2. Ply or folded yarns

3. Doubled yarns or compound yarns

4. Cabled yarns or cords

5.

Textured yarns: Stretch yarns, Bulk yarns

6.

Novelty yarns:

Slub yarns

Flake yarns

Spiral yarns

Ratine yarns

Boucle, Loop or Curl yarns

Nub, Knop, Knot or Spot yarns

Chinelle yarns


10/15

Physical properties and performance characteristics of

different yarn types:

Yarn type General yarn properties

Continuous filament yarns Excellent uniformity

Excellent strength

Natural Can be very fine

Non-synthetic Fair handle

Synthetic Poor covering power

High bulk yarns

Light weight

Staple Good covering power

Continuous filament Good loftiness and fulln

Stretch yarnsHigh stetchability

Continuous filament Good handle

Covering power

Special end use:

Tyre cord Purely functional

Rubber Designed to satisfy a specific-

Core yarn set of conditions

Cabled

Split film yarn


11/15

Novelty yarns:

Excellent decorative features

Fancy yarns

Metallic

Colour

Yarn comes in many colors. Yarn may be used undyed, or may be coloured with natural or

artificial dyes. Most yarns have a single uniform hue, but there is also a wide selection of

variegated yarns:

Heathered or tweed: yarn with flecks of different coloured fiber

Ombre: variegated yarn with light and dark shades of a single hue

Multicolored: variegated yarn with two or more distinct hues (a "parrot colourway" might

have green, yellow and red)

Self-striping: yarn dyed with lengths of color that will automatically create stripes in a

knitted or crocheted object

Marled: yarn made from strands of different-colored yarn twisted together, sometimes in

closely related hues
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Natural_dyehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dyehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Caraz_Market_Lana.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dyehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Natural_dye


12/15

Measurement

A comparison of yarn weights (thicknesses): the top skein is aran weight, suitable for knitting a

thick sweater or hat. The manufacturer's recommended knittinggauge appears on the label: 8 to

10 stitches per inch using size 4.5 to 5.1 mm needles. The bottom skein is sock weight,

specifically for knitting socks. Recommendedgauge:5 to 7 stitches per inch, using size 3.6 to

4.2 mm needles. These yarns are manufactured in Japan and have variegated colours in a

random-dyed pattern.

Spool of all-purpose sewing thread, close-up shows texture of 2-ply, Z-twist, mercerized cotton

with polyester core.

Yarn quantities are usually measured by weight in ounces or grams. In the United States, Canada

and Europe, balls of yarn for handcrafts are sold by weight.

Common sizes include 25 g, 50 g, and 100 g skeins. Some companies also primarily measure in

ounces with common sizes being three-ounce, four-ounce, six-ounce, and eight-ounce skeins.

These measurements are taken at a standard temperature and humidity, because yarn can absorb

moisture from the air. The actual length of the yarn contained in a ball or skein can vary due to

the inherent heaviness of the fibre and the thickness of the strand; for instance, a 50 g skein of

lace weight mohair may contain several hundred meters, while a 50 g skein of bulky wool may

contain only 60 meters.

There are several thicknesses of yarn, also referred to asweight.This is not to be confused with

the measurement and/or weight listed above. The Craft Yarn Council of America is making an

effort to promote a standardized industry system for measuring this, numbering the weights from

1 (finest) to 6 (heaviest). Some of the names for the various weights of yarn from finest to
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gauge_(knitting)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gauge_(knitting)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ouncehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/YarnWeighthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Spool_of_white_thread.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/YarnWeighthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ouncehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gauge_(knitting)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gauge_(knitting)


13/15

thickest are called lace, fingering, sport, double-knit (or DK), worsted, aran (or heavy worsted),

bulky, and super-bulky

A more precise measurement of yarn weight, often used by weavers, is wraps per inch (WPI).

The yarn is wrapped snugly around a ruler and the number of wraps that fit in an inch are

counted.

Labels on yarn for handicrafts often include information ongauge,known in the UK as tension,

which is a measurement of how many stitches and rows are produced per inch or per cm on a

specified size of knitting needle or crochet hook. The proposed standardization uses a four-by-

four inch/ten-by-ten cm knitted or crocheted square, with the resultant number of stitches across

and rows high made by the suggested tools on the label to determine the gauge.

Yarn Count

Textile yarns are measured in various units, such as: the denier and Tex (linear mass density of

fibres), super S (fineness of wool fiber), worsted count, woolen count, cotton count (or Number

English Ne), Number metric (Nm) and yield (the inverse of denier and tex). Yarn is spun thread

used for knitting, weaving, or sewing. Thread is a long, thin strand of cotton, nylon, or other

fibers used in sewing or weaving. Both yarn and thread are measured in terms of cotton countand yarn density.

Cotton count

Cotton count is another measure of linear density. It is the number of hanks (840 yd. or 770 m)

of skein material that weigh 1 pound (0.45 kg). Under this system, the higher the number, the

finer the yarn. In the United States cotton counts between 1 and 20 are referred to as coarse

counts. A regular single-knit T-shirt can be between 20 and 40 count; fine bed sheets are usually

in the range of 40 to 80 count. The number is now widely used in the staple fiber industry.

Yarn length

L/m= 1693 lm/Nec m/kg, where l/m is the yarn length in meters, lm/Nec is the English cotton

count and m/kg is the yarn weight in kilograms.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gauge_(knitting)http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gauge_(knitting)


14/15

English cotton count (Nec) is an indirect counting system, that is, the higher the number the finer

the yarn.

Thread: a length of 54 inches (1.4 m) (the circumference of a warp beam)

Bundle: usually 10 pounds (4.5 kg)

Lea: a length of 80 threads or 120 yards (110 m)

Denier: this is an alternative method. It is defined as a number that is equivalent to the weight in

grams of 9000 m of a single yarn. 15 denier is finer than 30 denier.

Tex: is the weight in grams of 1 km of yarn.

To convert denier to cotton count: lm/Nec = 5315/den, wherelm/Nec is the cotton countand /denis the density in denier.

To convert tex to cotton count: lm/Nec = 590.5/tex, wherelm/Nec is the cotton count and /texis

the density in tex.

1 Tex = 19 den

Thread

Thread is acotton yarn measure, equal to 54 inches (1.4 m).
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cottonhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cotton


15/15

Yarn density conversion

Approximate yarn measurement comparison

Denier m/g Tex Worsted Cotton Woolen (run) Linen (lea)

50 180 5.6 160 106 56 298

75 120 8.3 106 72 37 198

100 90 11.1 80 53 28 149

150 60 16.6 53 35 19 99

200 45 22.2 40 27 14 74

300 30 33.4 27 18 9.3 50

400 22.5 44.4 20 13 7.0 37

500 18 55.5 16 11 5.6 30

700 12.9 77.7 11.4 7.6 4.0 2

1000 9 111 8.0 5.3 2.8 15

1500 6 166 5.3 3.5 1.9 10

2000 4.5 222 4.0 2.7 1.4 7

Documents

Yarns Fabric Knowledge