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The following terms & definitions are used to describe and explain cotton fiber maturity. Circularity : The degree of thickening which is calculated by the cross sectional area of the fiber wall divided by the area of a circle of the same perimeter. Theta : Average circularity of the matured fibers also described as the degree of thickening. Fineness (mtex) : Average fiber fineness (weight per unit length) in millitex. 1000 meters of fibers with a mass of 1 milligram equals 1 millitex. IFC (%) : Immature fiber content in percent. Percentage of fibers with less than 0.25 circularity. The lower the IFC% the better the fiber is for dyeing. Maturity Ratio : Maturity Ratio is the ratio of fibers with a 0.5 (or more) circularity ratio devided by the amount of fibers with a 0.25 (or less) circularity. The higher the maturity ratio, the more mature the fibers are and the better the fibers are for dyeing.
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Spinning Quality & Spinning Parameters
Name : MAZADUL HASAN SHESHIRID: 2010000400008Batch: 13th Batch (Session 2009-2013)Department: Wet Processing Technology Email: [email protected] (FB)Blog: www. Textilelab.blogspot.comSoutheast University,Bangladesh Department of Textile Engineering
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The following terms & definitions are used to describe and explain cotton fiber maturity.
Circularity : The degree of thickening which is calculated by the cross sectional area of the fiber wall divided by the area of a circle of the same perimeter.Theta : Average circularity of the matured fibers also described as the degree of thickening.Fineness (mtex) : Average fiber fineness (weight per unit length) in millitex. 1000 meters of fibers with a mass of 1 milligram equals 1 millitex.IFC (%) : Immature fiber content in percent. Percentage of fibers with less than 0.25 circularity. The lower the IFC% the better the fiber is for dyeing.Maturity Ratio : Maturity Ratio is the ratio of fibers with a 0.5 (or more) circularity ratio devided by the amount of fibers with a 0.25 (or less) circularity. The higher the maturity ratio, the more mature the fibers are and the better the fibers are for dyeing.
Terms & Definitions:
Type of yarn CountCotton Yarn 16s ,20s, 22s, 24s, 26S, 28S, 30S, 34S, 40SPolyester Yarn 75D, 100D,150DSpandex yarn 20D,40D,70DGrey Mellange (C-90% V-10%) 20S ,22S ,24S, 26S ,30S ,34SPC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton) 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S
24S, 26S, 28S, 30S
RAW MATERIALS USE FOR KNITTING:
Relation between count and staple length
For Weaving For Knitting
20 Nec 22.5 ~ 24.5 mm 20 ~ 25 Nec 26.5 ~ 27.5 mm
24 Nec 23.0 ~ 25.5 mm 26 ~ 30 Nec 27.5 ~ 28.5 mm
26 Nec 24.0 ~ 26.5 mm 32 ~ 34 Nec 28.5 ~ 29.5 mm
30 Nec 25.0 ~ 27.0 mm 36 ~ 40 Nec 29.5 ~ 30.5 mm
36 Nec 26.0 ~ 28.0 mm
Types of yarns
Type of yarn Count
Cotton 20S ,24S, 26S, 28S, 30S, 32S, 34S, 36S ,40S, 45S
Polyester 70D,100D,150D
Spandex yarn 20D,40D,70DGrey Mélange (C-90% V-10%) 24S, 26SEcru Mélange (C-85% V-15%) 24S, 26S, 28SCotton Mélange (100%) 24S, 26S, 28SPC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton) 24S, 26S, 28S, 30SCVC(60% Polyester & 40% Cotton) 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S
YarnFibre
Evenness ( U% / CV% )
Thin placesThick placesNeps/1000 m yarnClassimat faults/100 km yarn
Breaking tenacity
(Fmax/tex)
Breaking elongation
(% )
Hairiness (H)
Fibre length 1 2 3 4 5Micronaire value 6 7 8 9 10Nep content
Leaf content
Trash content
Microdust content
Fibre fragments content
11 12 13 14 15
1/8 Breaking strength 16 17 18 19 201/8 Elongation 21 22 23 24 25Colour / reflectance 26 27 28 29 30
Relationship between fibre strength & the yarn tensile properties.
Relationship between yarn & fibre quality characteristics ( Rotor spun yarn ).
YarnFibre
Evenness ( U% / CV%
)
Thin placesThick placesNeps/1000 m yarnClassimat faults/100 km yarn
Breaking tenacity
(Fmax/tex)
Breaking elongation
(% )
Hairiness (H)
Fibre length 1 2 3 4 5Micronaire value 6 7 8 9 10Nep content
Leaf content
Trash content
Microdust content
Fibre fragments content
11 12 13 14 15
1/8 Breaking strength 16 17 18 19 201/8 Elongation 21 22 23 24 25Colour / reflectance 26 27 28 29 30
Raw material / cotton fibre selection : Fibre length & its uniformity Fibre strength Short fibre content Fineness (mic.) Maturity Nep content Color
Mixing : Contamination sorting Consistency of mix
Blow Room : Frequency of process / mix change Waste control
Carding : Carding Speed Neps content in card sliver Sliver linear density & variation control Waste control
Key Control Parameters Of spinning Floor :
Lap forming & Combing : Control of lap weight Comber speed Noil (Comber waste) extraction Neps in combed sliver
Drawing : Drawing speed Sliver uniformity/Regularity control
Simplex Fly Frame/Roving Frame : Flyer Speed Twist level Frequency of process change
Ring Spinning : Spindle speed Twist level Frequency of process/raw material changes
Winding : Winding Speed Frequency of process change
Key Control Parameters Of spinning Floor :
a) Blow-room Function :
1. Opening & Cleaning Wastage
2. Dropping 3. Filter waste 4. Fine Dust
b) Carding Function :
5. Parallelization & straightening 6. Nap & dead fiber remove 7. Wt/unit length Sliver
Wastage 8. L-in wastage 9. Flat strip 10. Sliver wastage 11. A/C Dust : Back, Ring & Winding
Function & Wastage of different section
Function & Wastage of different section
c) DrawingFunction
1. Drafting & Doubling 2. Uniform sliver (wt/unit length) 3. More parallelization &
straightening (by reduce hook).Wastage
4. Filter wastage 5. Sliver wastage.
d) UnilapFunction:
6. Lap formation 7. Drafting & doubling.
Wastage:8. Sliver.
e) Comber.
Function: 1. Short fibers remove2. Naps remove.
Wastage:3. Comber Noil.
f) Simplex Function:
4. Roving formation 5. Drafting & twisting6. Roving Build up in bobbin.
Wastage:7. Roving wastage.
g) Ring FrameFunction
1. Yarn formation 2. Drafting & twisting 3. Yarn Build up in bobbin.
Wastage:4. Pneumafil 5. Bonda wastage 6. Wooden roller wastage 7. Sweeping 8. Roving wastage.
h) Wingding Function
9. Fault free yarn 10. Suitable package.
Wastage:11. Hard waste 12. Filter waste 13. Sweeping waste.
Function & Wastage of different section
Function & Wastage of different section
I) Heat set Function 1. Twist set 2. Yarn lustier & dye absorption increase 3. Std. moisture regains. # Importance of FIFO Light patta Yarn strength decrease Overall yarn quality deteorates. # Bag handling & storage Cone damage Count & lot mixing Overall yarn quality deteorates.
# Control of SECDS
Missing & wrong stickers Missing & wrong lot no Paper cone condition Oil & hand strain Top & bottom stitches Damage Cone Off standard spindle Gara cops Count & lot mix Shaded cone TPI variation Thick & thin problem.
TOPIC : SELECTION OF RAW COTTON WITH RESPECT TO COUNT AND PROCESSING MACHINERY.
Pre-Ginning : Cotton Fibre quality depend on the following points to a large extent.
1. Agriculture system2. Location3. Weather4. Picking system & no of pick5. Ginning preparation
Ginning system & type of ginning:6. Basic working principle of saw & roller ginning7. Merits & Demerits of roller ginning8. Merits & Demerits of saw ginning
Relation between processing machine & trash in the cotton: Normal range:
Count 20’s 30’s 40’s 60’s 80’s 100’sTrash 5.0 4.0 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0
For ring yarn processing:
Selection of no of beating point
Percentage of seat coat fragment in sliver & cotton
Draft roller distance
A/C plant performance
For OE yarn processing:
Selection of no of beating point
Trash & dust remaining in sliver
Draft roller distance
A/C plant performance
A.Classification of cotton base on 2.5% spun length value.
Class2.5% spun length
mm Inch
Extra long staple 33.0 & above 1.30 & above
Long staple 29.5 to 32.5 1.15 to 1.29
Medium staple 25.0 to 29.0 0.98 to 1.14
Short staple A 20.5 to 24.5 0.81 to 0.97
Short staple B 20.0 & below 0.80 & below
Count vs raw cotton selection:
COTTON PARCHASE SYSTEM
COTTON PARCHASE SYSTEM
QULITY MANAGEMENT
QULITY MANAGEMENT
Quality Characteristics Of Cotton yarn
Qua
lity
Char
acte
ristic
s O
f Cott
on y
arn
CV % (Co Efficient of Variation)
CV % (Co Efficient of Variation)
CV % (Co Efficient of Variation)
Degree of Contamination
Imperfection (Thick & Thin places)
FAULTS
FAULTS
FAULTS
