Content

People

Pierre Bourdon Nelly Hachem-Ruiz (IFF)Bruno Jovanovic (IFF New York)Anne-Louise Gautier (Drom)

What’s up?

Deco LondonBoadicea The VictoriousADN Atelier DesignPour un Homme Sport by CaronMonsieur. by EDPFMGrands Crus by Berdoues

Other fragrant launches

[toPNotes] Nathalie PichardFragrance Training Specialist & Evaluator

WFN 57 December 2015

Dear Reader,

Enjoy your latest Web Fragrant Newsletter 57! WFN is free, independent, co-signed by people, bimonthly, written in English, for professionals only... And still a pleasure!

See you in February 2016!

Thanks to Jan Henson (Corporate Trainer-English for Business) for rereading and Sylvaine Delacourte (Guerlain) for blogging (espritdeparfum)

The Independent Fragrant NL

Web Fragrant Newsletter

LA FABRIQUE DES PARFUMS. Naissance d’une industrie du luxe

You really should have this new French book about the manufacturing of perfumes in your library.Written by Eugénie Briot, the book tells us the (r)evolution of the perfume industry at thebeginning of the 20th Century with the new brands Houbigant, Guerlain, Piver, Roger etGallet…The discovery of new raw materials, the universal exhibitions, the war between the firstParisian department stores, Grasse and the scented gloves etc. With an approach combiningliterature, social surveys and science, the book tells the story of the coming of a modernfragrance industry which will become more and more luxurious.

La fabrique des parfums - Naissance d’une industrie du luxe, Eugénie Briot, Editions Vendémiaire

■ Fragrant People

Nathalie Pichard toPNotes[wfn]

Pierre Bourdon

‘’The concept of a perfume is above all an idea that I would reduce into a few simpledefinitions’’ Bruno Jovanovic is one of the most talented perfumers of his generation. Afterstudying at ISIPCA, he joined IFF 15 years ago, where is still working today – moving fromFrance to NY office. Bruno is known for block busters, indeed he created or collaborated onReveal Calvin Klein, The Scent Hugo Boss, Fierce Abercrombie and Fitch, Lady Million..and for many other American brands. He also created niche perfumes such as Thirdman.Recently, we heard of his name and work with Editions de Parfum Frédéric Malle with DriesVan Noten and the latest Monsieur. and Dans Mon Lit – with Rose Water Essential™, fromLMR – to fragrance bed linen … using turkish rose and musk.

Bruno Jovanovic – IFF NEW YORK

Raise your hand if you don’t know Pierre Bourdon! A graduate from the Paris Institute ofPolitical Studies, Pierre Bourdon abandoned a mapped-out path and decided to study atRoure Bertrand Dupont in Grasse. He was taught by Edmond Roudnitska, he learned hismasters’ composition techniques. Unanimously seen as one of the most innovative andeclectic perfumers of our time, his vision of perfumery is a vision of innovation, modernityand quality. Over the years, Pierre has had the opportunity to work with many famousbrands and designers, such as Yves Saint Laurent, Davidoff, Joop, Jil Sander, Escada,Lacoste, Salvatore Ferragamo… His creations are huge: YSL Kouros, Dolce Vita Dior,Davidoff Cool Water, Serge Lutens Féminité du Bois (with C. Sheldrake), Frédéric MalleFrench Lover and Iris Poudre…

“Be fun and creative”, this is her motto in her fragrant life! Young and energetic, Anne-Louiserepresents the young generation of French perfumers who are passionate and determined. Shejoined Drom Fragrances in 2014, after Mane and ISIPCA. As an Aznavour fan, she likes to twisther favorite raw materials: patchouli, leather and musky notes. Amongst her list of creations,we can see that she worked on Ferragamo, Molyneux, Ted Lapidus. Anne-Louise has createdthe new feminine Pièce Unique by Grès, which will be launched in March 2016 (a chypre fruity).

Nelly Hachem Ruiz – IFF

Anne-Louise Gautier – Drom

It is always good to start off with passion! After a scientific “baccalauréat”, Nelly, who hasoriental roots from Syria, is passionate about perfumes and first studied chemistry andchromatography. It was then that she met Jean Kerléo and her dream of being a perfumercame true. She worked at Guerlain, Yves Rocher and was taught by great perfumers fromIFF, which reinforced her personality. Forthright, focused on beautiful raw materials(myrrh, vanilla, patchouli, iris…), Nelly’s perfumery mirrors her temperament: strong andsincere, energetic and positive: these are the characteristics of Nelly’s notes both in herselfand her fragrances. Nelly composed in 2015 Sable Or by Armani Privé with Sophie Labbéand David Beckham Beyond. Remember her name and smile.

In 2014, Pierre Bourdon founded his own brand PierreBourdon by launching 5 perfumes, respecting quality,freedom and design. “In the Pierre Bourdon perfume line I can trulyexpress my personal interpretation freely, the most authentic of allPierre Bourdon fragrances”. Available at Fortnum and Mason, andsoon in France. www.pierrebourdon.com

La Dame en Rose, Sous les Magnolias, La fin d’un Eté, Le Grand Tour, Route des Epices

Nathalie Pichard toPNotes[wfn]

Deco London

Launched in October 2015, Deco London is a new British perfume housedevoted to the revival of 1920s fragrances. Inspired by young bohemianaristocrats and socialites who populated London in the 20s, Deco Londoncaptures the elegance and glamour of the era perfectly with six unique Eaude Parfums, 3 for women and 3 for men. Florals are at the heart of thecollection, combined with either woody, spicy or oriental notes, along withcitrus, musk and amber. The Collection is made up of 6 fragrances: 6characters named Millicent, Constance, Ernest, Loretta, Quentin andLawrence.Creative Director Sophia Fannon-Howell says ‘Deco London combines thesophistication, style and exuberance of 1920s London with the finestelements of classic perfumery. We never compromise on quality. Ourluxury fragrances are made in England and our brand reflects our Englishheritage.’

Available in a 50 ml Eau de Parfum for £75, Deco London can be purchased exclusively from www.deco-london.com

This is an independent British brand run by David Crisp.Boadicea the Victorious – inspired by Britain's archetypal warriorqueen – was launched as a worldwide exclusive brand in Harrods in2008. The niche British brand has since become one of the bestsellingfragrance collections within Harrods revamped Black Hall ofPerfumery; braving competition from both commercial brands andlong established boutique perfume houses. Boadicea the Victorioushas developed a loyal following around the globe. Boadicea theVictorious is the ultimate celebration of beauty, strength and nobilitywith 8 collections of pure perfume.

Boadicea the Victorious

Current launches are a stunning new scent Vetiver Imperialeexclusively created with Four Magazine (a leading food magazine)and creative Director Jason Atherton and signed by perfumerChristian Provenzano (CPL Aromas) who has created most of thecollections since 2008 and a new Amber Sapphire (white bottle).The brand is available in the UK, at Printemps Haussmann (France),Regia (Spain), Tsum (Moscow), Madison (Bucharest, Budapest),Osswald (Zurich), Henri Bendel NY, The Avery Perfume in the US.New boutiques are open in Dubai and Abu Dhabi.www.boadiceaperfume.com

Boadicea’s iconic ferocity, passion and strength are the very principles that

motivate and drive the luxury brand that bears her name.

■ Fragrant What’s up?

ADN atelier design is a Parisian Design & Graphic agency created by RaphaëlCloix (on the left - picture) firstly intervening for prestige fragrance & cosmeticbrands. The agency works as a true revealer of Sense. Its expertise comesfrom its capacity to visually transcribe the marketing positioning of the brandon all of its communication tools: product design, logotype design, packagingdesign, publishing design, Internet design…Its craftsmanship is based on a constant research of sense: by accompanyingthe brand within its development strategy, by focusing on its roots, culturalfunds and genetic heritage, by integrating new trends and anticipating theconsumer needs. ADN atelier design introduces a new view on the brand’svisual language by revealing singular creations combining Sense & Elegance.Dior, Guerlain, L’Occitane en Provence, Davidoff, St Dupont, Stendhal, JeannePiaubert, Maria Galand, L’Oréal, Issey Miyake… are the main references.

ADN Atelier Design

www.adnatelierdesign.frAntoine Morel (on the right)antoine@adnatelierdesign.fr

Nathalie Pichard toPNotes[wfn]

Fresh, elegant yet rich. The perfumer William Fraysse (Richard Fraysse’s son) created thenew unexpected Pour Un Homme de Caron Sport. A crispy aromatic fresh and orientalfragrance which highlights 37 raw materials chosen to make up a rich formula: tonic withcitrus and verbena, lavender (French Label), blue ginger and warmed by cedar wood,ambergris, tonka bean, benzoin,… and many natural raw materials dear to the brand. Thepackaging reveals a blue ground glass bottle, to give the impression of a fresh torrent,recalling the French Sport teams and blue ginger.

Pour Un Homme de Caron Sport by Caron

■ Fragrant Launches

Collection Grands Crus by Berdoues

A Grand Cru tells a story... that of its birthplace. The Grand Cru collectionwas inspired by a calling to gather the best raw materials from eachterritory to regale the perfume universe and bring them together in anexceptional line of colognes. Each of the six Grand Cru Colognesexpresses one of the world’s regions and proffers a unique interpretationof its olfactory identity in an original, innovational formula. Six Eaux deParfum: Assam of India, Somei Yoshino (a cherry blossom fragranceinspired by Japan, with additional notes of shiso, jasmine and patchouli),Oud al Sahraa, Arz El-Rab, Selva do Brazil, Scorza Di Sicilia.www.berdoues.fr

The Berdoues Colognes Grands Crus can now be found at Nocibé and

Jovoy Paris from € 68

Other fragrant launchesPamplemousse-Rhubarbe L’Occitane

Le 15 TDCMûre et Musc Extrême

Or Intemporel LaliqueTubéreuse Vertigineuse Molinard

Patchouli Intense MolinardOrigino Jeroboam

Orangea Profvmvm Roma Ursa Tiziana Terenzi

Bois Lumière Anatole Le Breton

Monsieur. by Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle – Bruno Jovanovic

Monsieur. (with a dot!) Many patchouli fragrances have been created since the 70’s butnot like this new one. We immediately think of powerful and unforgettable GentlemanGivenchy or Patchouli Reminiscence to name a few masterpieces.

How to attack, to work with, to tame, to calm and maybe civilize such a monster aspatchouli? How to celebrate Patchouli to make it wearable? By overdosing it (morethan 50%), by letting its freedom invade our senses… that’s what Bruno Jovanovic did…as for Ropion’s Carnal Flower. Let the raw material be raw.

[wfn] Nathalie Pichard toPNotes

Hum …Merry Christmas and Happy New Year

■ Fragrant Dessert