Vladimir Anđelković SERBIAN FASHION

8/18/2019 Vladimir Anđelković SERBIAN FASHION

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SERBIAN FASHION (1850-1914)

Centar za istraživanje digitalne kulture


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"Jelek" and" anteria"

Women wore skirts, anteria, fistan, waistband, jelek, shirtsand fur coats. They also wore a f es, firming it with theirbraids and decorated it with pearls, silver or gold. As for

jewelry, they preferred necklaces made of golden coins orpearls; they also wore earrings, bracelets and rings...

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”Mrs. Tomania’s corner”

Mayor of Belgrade Jevrem Obrenović had built a beautifulhouse, during the 19th century on the corner of Miloša Ve-likog Street and Krunska Street. Belgrade residents used to

call that neighborhood “Mrs. Tomania’s corner”. It was ahouse that had a beautiful garden, one of best in town, “dec-orated with all kinds of flowers, likes of which haven’t beenseen in Belgrade before” and was also known as “govern-ment’s anteroom”. The house of Jevrem and Tomania wasvast and beautiful, with spacious rooms, warm and well litwith miliherc candles. On their table was always a variety of

delicacies for serving and eating.The first organized gatherings of artists took place in Jev-rem's home. In the presence of famous figures of the time:Consul Hodžis and Mihanivić, learned Serbs Dimitrije Da-vidović, Isidor Stojanović, and others, spirits were high, andthe overall mood was cheerful. “There were recitals, talksand songs about”. In this house, Anka Konstatinović, accord-

ing to some a “Serbian femme fatal”, organized some of thebest gatherings of artists that Belgrade had ever seen.

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"Ječerma", "vest" and "dolama"

Before men started to wear European clothes, they preferred ječerma, vests, opran, cloth dolama or cotton anteria with asilk waistband. Under the dolama some of them wore clothcaksire (trousers), but others wore only leggings (tozluks).Over that it was common to wear a cloak made of lamb skinof fox fur. Shoes and boots were common, while fes re-

mained the most popular type of hat. Lower class wore dur-ing the summer only shirts and jecerma...7


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Устаничке вође, (Ј. Обреновић... ) 1820-30.8


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"Town mayor"

Lord Jevrem Obrenović (1790 - 1856), Duke Miloš`s brotherand through historical circumstances, grandfather of KingMilan, became mayor of Belgrade after moving there fromŠabac. He built a spacious house in the central square inBelgrade for himself and his large family. Jevrem Obrenovićwas very capable and a little bit scrupulous as the duke of

Šabac county, following Belgrade; he supervised publicbuildings, he was head of the police and military office, pres-ident of the State council and a member of Parliament. I twas then said that Jevrem was "a handsome man, well edu-cated and enlightened, patient and sensible". He was re-membered in history as a great leader and particularly asone interested in everything that was new. He reorganized

Šabac by European standards, creating grand boulevardsand nicknaming the town "Little Paris".9


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Породица Никодијевић, око 1880.10


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"Fistan", "libade" and "tepeluk"

In 1860s Serbia there was a unique mixture of Oriental andEuropean fashion. This led toe the creation of a Serbiantown costume that became the typical clothing of women.This costume included a fistan (a long dress), a chest scarf,a fur coat, a l ibade (jacket), a f es (small red hat made ofcloth) and a tepeluk (decoration for the head i nstead of a

fes). In addition, belts, jewelry, parasols, gloves and fanswere imported from the West.

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The First Empress of Serbia

It was said that Persida Karadjordjević (1813 - 1873) actuallyran the state and not her husband, Duke Aleksandar. The

duchess came from the house of Nenadović and was a verybeautiful woman with an excellent sense for fashion. She woresilk and velvet gowns, fully pleated, with a r ound or "V" cut .Over the top part of her dress she wore a s ilk scarf crossedover the chest. As all women who sported high Serbian fashion,she donned a velvet "skuteljka" (jacket) with rich fur. In addition,Duchess Persida sometimes wore satin "libade" (another sort of

jacket) with golden ornaments. Her favorite colours were darkred, cream, dark green...13


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Урош Кнежевић, Потрети, 1840.

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"Noble" and "grand"

There were some who thought that it would be good to intro-duce real nobility with estates in Serbia. Miloš decidedagainst this plan because he t hought it was improper. In-stead of titles such as "noble", "grand" etc. Miloš introducedonly one: "sir". That gave a r eason for clerks to decoratethemselves depending on their position. Miloš thought it wastoo much, because they looked in one moment as if they

were Dukes. That was the reason why he ordered the clerkuniforms to be simplified.15


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Јован Нако, око 1840.

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"Jerrys" and "Parisians"

In the 1850s it was a custom in Serbia to send studentsabroad to school. Who went to France was called "Parisian",and who went to Austria and Hungary was called a "Jerry".The two streams conflicted at the end of the "constitution de-fenders'" regime. Jerrys claimed that Parisians were not ex-

perienced enough and lacked practical knowledge. Theylaughed at them as being "hot-headed"... Parisians, on theother hand, accused Jerrys of being "pseudo-experts", farfrom real science, and s aying that they were "Jacks of alltrades, but masters of none". Parisians were also accused tobe too liberal leading to revolution. The passionate fight be-tween The Parisians and The Jerrys began to calm down

when a "Parisian" Kosta Nikolajević became father in law ofDuke Aleksandar Karadjordjević...17


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„Handsome Paja"

After the death of Belgrade's Arch Episcope Melentije, whomduke Miloš "sincerely" mourned, Pavle Jovanović was elect-

ed, somewhat unexpectedly (1833-1859). According to de-scriptions, Pavle was exceptionallygood-looking, and wasthus nicknamed "handsome Paja". He was of averageheight, with a pair of lively dark eyes, and a skilled publicspeaker. In sermons that he held immediately before Duke'sfall, he laid out the basic ideas of the "defenders of constitu-tion" movement. In fact, the speech had such an impression

on crown prince Milan that he suggested that these ideas bepublished in a separate book.18


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Intelligent and seductive coquette

Anka Obrenović (1821-1868), the most gifted daughter of

Lord Jevrem and his wife Tomanija, was, as her contempo-raries describe her, an intelligent and seductive coquette.One of those "fammes fatales" of the 19th century that influ-enced not only the social life of Belgrade, but also played apart in hidden political dealings. One of Anka's pho-tographies from her younger age show her playing the pianoin a de collete ball gown...". Anka wrote interesting poems,

translated from several languages and was the most edu-cated and intelligent woman during that period in Serbia.21


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Enigmatic Duke Mihailo

Duke Mihailo (1823 - 1868) was completely withdrawn as aperson, and he preferred silence and solitude. Excluding hismost intimate friends and family he was not close to anyone.He never visited anyone; in his first four years as the head ofthe government, he made only two social visits. In his court,he accepted as guests, besides the audiences, only his min-isters, president of council Mr. Marinković, and two assis-tants of the ministry; Miloje Lješčanin and Miloje Petronijević.He most often dined alone. Always serious, abstracted andmoody, he moved only amongst his most inner circle of fami-

ly and ministers, and cut off from the rest of the world. Oneinnate tightness and melancholy of character, amplified witharistocratic disdain, condemned Mihailo to a life of aristocrat-ic privacy and enigmatic inaccessibility. “It is rather strange”,says one of his admirers, “how such a noble ruler as Mihailohas so little close friends... For better part of his day he re-sides in his study, sitting motionless behind his desk. He al-

ways read or wrote... but almost anything he wrote, he toresoon after.”23


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"The most cunning of all Serbs"

Proficient, agile and capable to use the smallest opportunityfor his own goals, Braznavac (1824 - 1873) knew how to getto the position as a minister and to hold on to that position –

which he did using with his subtle tricks. He had no specialtalents, but couild adapt well to all situations. He belonged toa special kind of people, with a tendency to mystify theirwork. Braznavac was using moments of fall, crises and de-feats as a backup to his own success... Just when one wasexpecting his decline, he would rise swiftly. Equally, when hewas expecting to suceed, he would have run out of strength.

His contemporaries claimed that he was the most cunning ofall the Serbs in that period.24


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Политичари (Блазнавац...) 1850-1860. Снимио, Анастас Јовановић.25


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A real Parisian

According to Slobodan Jovanović, Aćim Čumić (1836 -1901) was the best orator in Serbia because he had a tre-mendous strength of voice... No actor could have given suchenergy in pronouncing any word as well as he did, when hesaid the word “thief”. When he accused someone of being a“thief,” the strength of the word seemed stronger than any

possible evidence. Čumić was really a fashionable man.With blue sideburns and a silk white scarf, gloves and put-tees, he looked as if he were a real Parisian. Nevertheless,when one observes him carefully, his evil look, dark com-plexion reflected a t rue peasant, easy on t he trigger. Hissomewhat threatening looks supplemented his dark and bit-terer attitude towards things. On the other hand, he had a

way with the audience. He also greeted every single man forthe sake of his popularity.27


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Duke's guard

Hatisherif (decree of Serbia's autonomy) was red on D e-cember 30, 1830. on Tasmajdan. A lot of people witnessedthat moment, and therefore had an opportunity to see for thefirst time the Serbian army in uniform, "The Duke's Guard",

and to hear military band playing marches from Serbian ari-as...28


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Војна академија 1903.29


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Илија Гарашанин, 1850-70.

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"In Paris and wearing a hat"

Until his first journey to Paris in 1852. Garasanin wore a ko-poran and a fes. During his stay in Paris, he had to visitmany authorities, including Napoleon III himself, so naturallyhis wardrobe had to change to one more fitting of a diplomat

– a tailcoat and a hat. Therefore Garasanin found himself forthe first time dressed by European standards. In his lettersto Knicanin he declares: "Here I am in Paris and wearing ahat! It is not my fault that our doctors could not cure me, so Ihave to be cured in a place where hats are worn."He also wrote to the President of the Council: "I am dressedlike a real dandy, with my hat bent, enjoying it all...".News on Garasanin's new lifestyle astonished Belgrade. His

closest friends made jokes on his account and laughed athim, calling him "a proud peacock" etc.31


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An Aristocrat and a gentleman

Duke Mihailo (1823 - 1868) was a distinguished man, anaristocrat, a cavalier, a gentleman, a good s hooter and arider. He was a great admirer of race horses, and was thefirst Serb to build tennis courts and cricket fields. In specialoccasions Mihailo wore a special uniform: a gilt kalpak (high-crowned cap), dolama (pea coat) called "Attila", saber deco-rated with diamantes, spurs with brilliants. He had a specialmilitary uniform: red tunic, white trousers, three-pointed hatwith oversized ostrich feathers, scarf ornamented with goldand plated saber.By his education and behavior, steady and with dignity, hewas the most noble person in Serbia. He was straight, hon-orable, honest, noble; he had a great sense of duty, princi-pality, and was truly a great patriot.

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Nether beauty, nor a European lady

In his "Notes..." Kosta Hristić described Duchess Julia (1831- 1919), whom he had known very well, as a lady of "aver-age height, but elegant, with a perfect bust.” That her facewas “white and clear as alabaster, her eyes black and bril-liant, her eyebrows fine-drawn, her nose well-formed, hermouth oddly small, and her lips full and ruddy.” On the otherhand, Franjo Zah, who also knew Julia well, pointed out that"she was neither a heavenly beauty, as people would say,and not even a European lady, but a tiny little woman, a fad-ed beauty, and not so charming."... Duchess Julia was "verysensitive to cold, whose skin was intolerant to temperaturechanges." Her writing was masculine. She preferred scarvesand jewelry. She spoke German fluently, and i n her sparetime she enjoyed drawing. With her European pulse, Juliahad enchanted a s mall Belgrade society, which describedher "as pretty as a fairy". However, numerous photographsfrom Belgrade period show that Julia was not as pretty andattractive as said, but her appearance was somewhat plainin comparison to the handsome Duke Mihailo."

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Високих нараменица су биле у моди у првој деценији двадесетог века

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Talented but light-headed

In the first half of the 19th century, Čedomilj Mijatović (1842 -1942) was an easy and fluent spokesman, with youthfulfreshness... He was talented, but also light-headed. He ac-cepted the ideas of others hastily and a little bit unadvisedly.However, by virtue of his gift, principality and ho nesty, hewas still honored by society.

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A f i


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Age for marrying

In 1837, Serbian law set the minimum age at which peoplecould be married. It was seventeen for men and fifteen forwomen. The clergy was warned not to marry anyone belowthat age. This law was made because Serbs had a customto marry young children so they could avoid "danak u krvi"(taking children to Istanbul). This way the Turks could notspoil the Serbian marriages once they became legal.

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Два млада брачна пара, 1890.41

Divorce in Serbia


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Divorce in Serbia

The Orthodox church allowed three marriages at most. Ifone wanted to get married after the death of third wife or

husband, it would need to be blessed by the church authori-ty. Divorces in 19th century Serbia were, as in all Europe,very rare and mostly caused because of some sort of decep-tion, spouse's health, an incapability to work or consummatethe marriage. In seeking divorce, men often appealed on thegrounds of the wife's lack of work in the house or infidelity,while women appealed to physical or mental abuse, infidelityof incapability to provide financial security.

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Жена са децом, 1890. Снимио ,Л. Лецтер.43

Serbs of Moses's faith


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Serbs of Moses s faith

Sephardi Jews came across Turkey and Bosnia to Serbiasomewhere in the early XVI century. Ashkenazi Jews weresettled in Vojvodina by the order of Maria Teresia. The inte-gration of Jews began with their entrance into the Serbianarmy by the law of constitution from 1869. At the end of XIX

century they began to assimilate with the Serbian popula-tion. Many of them added "ic" to their surname, declaringthemselves as Serbs, but remain unchristianised, known asSerbs of Moses's faith. In 1874. there were 2049 Jews andthat was 0,15% of the population in Serbia. About 1754 ofthem lived in Belgrade and this constituted 6,35% of thepopulation in 1910. This percentage rose up to 0,21%, but inBelgrade it declined to 4,66% of the Jewish population.

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Породица Калеф, око 1880.

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Кнез Божидар Карађорђевић (1862 – 1908)47

President of the government


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g

Phillip Hristić , the son of Karadjordje's bimbasha (comman-dant), Hrista Djordjević from Samkov, was born only twoyears after the assassination of Karadjordje, 1819, in mostlyTurkish Belgrade. He died two years after the assassinationof King Aleksandar and Queen Draga, 1905. The climax ofHristić's career was definitely his presidency of the seven-teenth government, after he was persuaded by Duke Mihailo

to form it.48


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Vladimir Jovanović, a Liberal


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Vladimir Jovanović (1833—1922) was a liberal, deeply con-vinced in the enlightenment and much of his understandingof democracy was based on the writings of John StewartMill. In fact, Jovanov decided to translate Mill's discussion on

government into Serbian.50


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Владимир Јовановић, 1880, Ђура Јакшић, 1890.

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By the fashion of The second Empire


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Jovan Ristić (1831- 1899), deputy of King Milan and King Aleksandar Obrenović, was a diplomat and a politician,leader of the liberal party, president of the government... Inaccording with his position, he wore sideburns, mustache bythe fashion of The second Empire...

Sociable, cheerful and hospitable

Kosta Taušanović (1852 - 1902) was extremely sociable,cheerful and hospitable to everyone. Radicals from provincewere always his guests, and Kosta's home was open to all ofthem. A s a political leader, he knew how to gather goodmen around him...

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Јован Ристић, Коста Таушановић, око 1880.

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Corporal punishment


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Avram Petrović remembers that under Duke Mihailo “free-dom of speech was aggravated”. For even the smallest ofinsults against the government, one could be sent to jail.Nothing could be sent for publishing until it was reviewedand approved. In the period prior to the abolition of law con-

cerning corporal punishment, police and serfs throughout thevillages could sentence any man in Serbia, save clerks andpriests, to beatings. Police had the right of 25 sticks, serfs of10 and court of 50 sticks. The law of corporal punishmentwas abolished on December 11. 1873 by Đorđe Cenić. Hewas the acting minister of justice and professor of law. A tthis point the government in Serbia was already firmly in the

grasp of the nineteen year old Duke Miloš Obrenović.54


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Робијаши, 1903.55


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„Convince me, if you can!“


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With his ideas, colored by socialism, Svetozar Marković wasquickest to sway students and young intellectuals. Essenceof his teachings was in the critical analysis of people and so-ciety and taking on a position where “nothing should be tak-en on good faith – as they used to say – instead all shouldundergo evaluation under your own common sense”. Be-cause of that, period around 1870. was filled with debates.

Pale young men with long uncombed hair, and many of them – as pointed out by Slobodan Jovanović – although notshort-sighted, were wearing glasses, and would walk aroundin groups, and always debate one thing or the other. Theycalled themselves thinkers and anything that could not beproven as one plus one equals two, they would cast aside asprejudicial. In their company one could often hear: “Convince

me, if you can!”57

Coastal leventa


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Duke Medo Pucić (1821–1882) was, according to SlobodanJovanović, a classicaly educated poet and a member ofseveral societies.In the court of Obrenovićs he worked as a tutor to the youngKing Milan. Medo Pucić behaved as a typical "coastal leven-ta (vagabond), who only ate and slept, considering his posi-

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Матија Бан, 1880, Медо Пуцић, 1870.

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The beauty of Queen Natalia


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Čedomilj Mijatović wrote in his memoires that Queen Natalia(1859 - 1941) was very beautiful with her expressible browneyes -- a typical eastern beauty. And Laza Kostić describedher beauty as gracious and sophisticated. Even Queen Na-talia herself was completely aware of her beauty and com-

pared herself to a "small goddess"...60


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Драга Машин, 1982, Наталија Обреновић, 1882.

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Foppery of King Milan


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King Milan (1854 - 1901) was, as per Slobodan Jovanović,as much a spender as his father. And to top that, he had “astrand of Vlach foppery that he inherited from his mother. Inhis court spendings were twice what they were in DukeMihailo's court. While Mihailo's house budget was 1.500 gold

pieces a month, Milan's was 3.000. The champagne andbordeaux were not really drunk as much as they werepoured, almost like in some Polish noble home just beforeruin. One ordinary hunt would cost 3.000 gold pieces. As heruled his own home, so he ruled in everything else: often heused a suit only once or twice before immediately throwing itaway or giving it to someone as a gift; he used between two

or three pairs of gloves a day. He had a passion for buyingthings, especially female jewelry. He was plentiful and gen-erous and whoever did him the slightest favor would imme-diately be compensated; cones of fifty or one hundred goldpieces were handed out as easy as cigarettes. His tips werefantastic, in Vienna, he gave five Forint tips for a simple cupof coffee”. Even the New Court, which started being built in

1882, was like Milan: shiny and luxurious.62


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Краљ Милан, 1880 - 1890.

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Артемиза Христић, око 1890.64

„Neither beautiful, nor lovable“


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King Milan (1854 - 1901) was a handsome man and in histime he was thought of as highly desirable. As his contempo-raries described him, he was quick and reckless in all mat-ters concerning romance, and would easily fall in and out of

love. He was, according to Lazar Kostić, a real “skirt-chaser”. King Milan fell deathly in love with an ordinary citi-zen, Artemiza, the spouse of Milan Hristić, a clerk of the min-istry of external affairs. Artemiza was a Greek woman bornin Constantinople. One contemporary describes her as nei-ther beautiful, nor in proper youth, nor charming, and aboveall “bad-mannered”. To King Milan, however, she seemed

completely different. He could not find words to describe herbeauty and wits, he found her better in politics than most ofhis ministers... He acted out like a love driven school-boy.Belgrade residents could often see him as he ran up t hestairs to Artemiza’s apartment, panting, with as many flowersin his hands as a man could carry. He would often spendseveral hours at her place, and “when he was not there, she

would send notes and letters to him hourly”.65

"Timid schoolboy"


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People who had the chance to get acquainted with King Ale-ksandar Obrenović (1889 - 1903) described him as a m anhard to figure out. At first he made an impression of a "mod-est, timid schoolboy". To others he seemed “very cold anddistant, passionless". His tone, movements, thoughts, emo-tion… all of these things were unusually silent and cold, as if

he were not a human being...66


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Александар Обреновић, 1882.67

Liberal style


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In the early 1850s, the primary liberal group was composed

of younger intellectuals, educated abroad, the so called "Pa-risians". Most of them were born in the country. They gath-ered in their "club", in the apartment of Mr. Alimijević and Mr.Janković, to discuss political issues. They argued for: thecomplete freedom of the Serbian people, their unification,and for national integration and independence. With a greatdeal of romantic idealization of Serbian medieval history, the

liberals had a tendency to be nationalists.68


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Господа са цвикерима, 1870-1890.

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Radical style


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In 1881. when they entered the parliament, radicals were

clearly distinguished from the rest of the ministers. Therewere three types. First, the f arm bosses, led by DimitrijeTajsić, were easily recognized by their peasant attire andopanci (peasant shoes). Second, the small-town merchants.They were represented by Rista Ivanović from Golubac, Jo-van Jovanovic from Šabac and Arsa Drenovac fromKruševac. They were dressed similarly to clerks, but instead

of redingote, they wore a short coat, often without a neck-scarf and always wearing boots. City radical intelligence wasthe most numerous in the Parliament. They wore long blackcoats, redingotes, with black hats with wide rims, which werethought to be symbols of socialism. Peasants, being patriar-chal, shaved their beards, while intellectuals all wore longbeards. The radical elite were priests, such as Lazar Marti-

nović...70


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Никола Пашић, 1910.71


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Протојереј ставрофор Лазар Мартиновић, 1856 - 1914.72


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Грађани, око. 1898. Снимио, Марко Стојановић.

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Witty, clever and agile


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When Ljubomir Kaljević (1841 - 1907) became president ofthe government in 1875, he was only 34 years old. He wasdescribed by his contemporaries as a typical man from

Užice: witty, clever and agile, extremely well educated, finelydressed, very sociable with good connections in all politicalcircles. He was rich, with a gr and house on Terazije. Hegathered young intelligent liberals and formed the first politi-cal club in Serbia. Kaljević was passionate for politics and hespent a great deal of his fortune on "public business". Hehad a lovely carriage and horses, expensive furniture, a li-

brary...75


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Noble manners of Djordje Simić


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Djordje Simić (1843 -1921) was the son of a great defenderof constitution Stojan Simić. In the "peasant country" thatSerbia was at the time, Simić looked as if he were an aristo-crat. He was educated in Germany and France to be a dip-lomat and served in Sofia, Saint Petersburg, Istanbul, Romeand Vienna. Djordje's noble manners came natural. He wasa handsome man and wherever he went he had made a

good impression, though he had a bad sense of humor. 77

Merchants from Belgrade


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In the middle of 19th century, the towns were three timeswealthier than the villages. The average townsmen's proper-ty was worth 41 gold coins, while the countrymen's wasworth only 15. Although they were only 8,81% of the popula-tion, the citizens, living in towns, owned over 20% immobilegoods in the principality of Serbia. Merchants were usually

the wealthiest citizens in the towns.They also travelled the most and from their journeys andbrought not only goods, but also new ideas, knowledge, cus-toms and habits. They devoted much to their children's edu-cation -- particularly to their male heirs. The sons of themerchants were often educated to be clerks. On the otherhand, while craftsmen were by far the most numerous in the

towns, they belonged to the middle class. 78


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Буржуји са шеширима, 1870-1900. Снимио, Марко Стојановић.

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Belgrade clerks


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Less than 10% of the town's population were clerk families,and although only clerks in high positions were consideredwealthy, their influence was far greater than one would ex-pect. Teachers were, in comparison with clerks, relativelylow-paid, but it was nevertheless a very respectable job. The

clergy had the smallest number of men, but their positionwas extremely good in comparison to other European coun-tries.

An officer was allowed, according to a l aw from 1862, tomarry only if he or his future bride had an estate valued atleast 500 golden coins.But 10% of town population were peasants and lived in the

suburbs and often had small estates. 80


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Михаило Јовановић, 1897. Снимио, Милан Јовановић.81

Intellectual „nouveau riche“


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Intellectual "nouveau riche", often born in the country, con-tinued their education abroad. Such indiviudals were criti-cized as being stuffed with science and morally spoiled by it.Confused by foreign theories, they could not cope with Ser-bian situations. Educated primitives could not restrain theirambition, thinking that their foreign diploma gave them rightto do w hatever they wanted. On the other hand, beingabroad did not draw these men from their country. Their faithin Serbia and its future remained undamaged. Truly ambi-tious, but not crooked, they were mostly uncorrupted... Intel-lectual "nouveau riche" showed to be much more capable inforeign policy than in domestic affairs. Two great examples

were Ilija Garašanin and Jovan Ristić. The nationalist tradi-tion with the myth of Kosovo gave intellectuals a certain goaland strength... In domestic policy they were infected by polit-ical parties, especially in 1880s with the appearance of TheRadicals. Political parties spread their power into all possiblefields, even science and literature. It conquers masses bythe leadership of Nikola Pasić, Pera Todorović and Kosta

Tausanović. 82


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Браде српске господе, 1870-1890.

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Vain and sensitive like a woman


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Milan Piroćanac (1837 - 1897) was a young conservative, in-itiator of the journal "Šumadija". He was appreciated for hislogical attitude towards politics. Tall and slim, he resembleda giraffe, according to Mr. Jovanović. He was unexpectedlyvain and sensitive like a woman or, on the other hand,sharp, impetuous and irreconcilable, which was a bad char-acteristic for a statesman, but also a great one for a lawyer,which he showed representing Queen Natalia during her di-

vorce trial with King Milan. 85

Belgrade arch bishops


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In 1882 there was a feud between Stojan Novaković, theacting minister of education, and archbishop Mihailo (1826 -1898), head of the Serbian Orthodox Church. The conflictwas partially caused by the archbishop who was in favor ofthe Liberal party and R ussia, and against the conservativeand pro-Austrian politics of progressive government led byMilan Piroćanac. After a short investigation Novaković ruledthat archbishop Mihailo was a rebel and that he took on him-self the role of “third legislative power” in the country andimmediately pleaded to Duke Milan to relieve him of his duty,which Duke Milan did, on October 18. 1882. Instead heplaced bishop Teodosije on the church throne. ArchbishopMihailo Jovanović emigrated to Mount Athos, and afterwardsto Russia, and from there he became a great nuisance to thegovernment and even to the King with his severe critics ofMilan's regime. Only after King Milan abdicated in 1889,Mihailo returned to Serbia and reclaimed the church throne

as archbishop. 86


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Митрополити Теодосије и Михаило, око 1880.

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Viennese fashion


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Besides Queen Natalia, who was exceptionally beautiful, Ka-tarina Bogićević-Konstantinović, cousin of King Milan, had anew dress for each occasion made in "Francine" in Viennaor "Monasterlia" in Budapest. Dresses were mostly made ofsilk, rep, satin, moiré and silk velvet, and rarely in lace. In alloccasions, dresses were worn long. Gowns for balls had atrain. Lilac was the most fashionable colour...

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Жене у трамвају, 1900. Снимио, Марко Стојановић.

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Women of Belgrade


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Pavle Apolonović Rovinski had wrote in his memoirs of Ser-bia, dating from 1868. and 1869, that Serbian women, evenwhen they are not educated, in “their conversations can be-have in such a manner, that lack of their education seemsnon apparent, and which, when compared to women thathad completed an institute, can be placed above the latter. Iam yet to find a bad woman in a good man's home. Theytreat their chidlren well, keep them very clean, and do notpunish them. The Serbian women are excellent cooks. Es-pecially so with wheat delicacies – pies, strudels, donuts,gingerbread, and s o on, and with all manners of excellentalmighty jams. They are said to enjoy to dandy-up. I haven'tnoticed that. Their clothing is almost uniform-like: on t heirhead a r ed fez with a ponytail, round up in hair, tied withsome lace, and the ends of

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Р. Никодијевић, око 1914.91


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Деса Јовановић, 1910. Атеље Кенинг.

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Модни салон Палигорић, 1908.

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Sadržaj


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"Fistan", "libade" and "tepeluk" ............................................... 2

"Ječerma", "vest" and "dolama" .............................................. 3

”Mrs. Tomania’s corner” .......................................................... 4 "Jelek" and" anteria" ............................................................... 5 The First Empress of Serbia ................................................... 6 "Town mayor" .......................................................................... 7 "Noble" and "grand" ................................................................ 8 "Jerrys" and "Parisians" .......................................................... 9 „Handsome Paja" .................................................................. 10

Intelligent and seductive coquette ........................................ 11 Enigmatic Duke Mihailo ........................................................ 12 "The most cunning of all Serbs" ............................................ 13

A real Parisian ...................................................................... 14 Duke's guard ......................................................................... 15 "In Paris and wearing a hat" ................................................. 16

An Aristocrat and a gentleman ............................................. 17

Nether beauty, nor a European lady ..................................... 18 Talented but light-headed ..................................................... 19

Age for marrying ................................................................... 20 Divorce in Serbia .................................................................. 21 Serbs of Moses's faith ........................................................... 22 Joyful Serbs .......................................................................... 23

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President of the government ................................................ 24 Vladimir Jovanović, a Liberal ................................................ 25

By the fashion of The second Empire ................................... 26 Sociable, cheerful and hospitable ......................................... 26 Corporal punishment ............................................................ 27 „Convince me, if you can!“ .................................................... 28 Coastal leventa ..................................................................... 29

The beauty of Queen Natalia ................................................ 30

Foppery of King Milan ........................................................... 31

„Neither beautiful, nor lovable“.............................................. 32 "Timid schoolboy" ................................................................. 33 Liberal style ........................................................................... 34 Radical style.......................................................................... 35 Witty, clever and agile ........................................................... 36

Noble manners of Djordje Simić ........................................... 37

Merchants from Belgrade ..................................................... 38

Belgrade clerks ..................................................................... 39 Intellectual „nouveau riche“ ................................................... 40 Vain and sensitive like a woman .......................................... 41 Belgrade arch bishops .......................................................... 42 Viennese fashion .................................................................. 43

Women of Belgrade .............................................................. 44

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SERBIAN FASHION (1850-1914)

Editor: mr Vladimir Anđelković


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foto:

arhiva TOB-a, zbirka Kasine, zbirka M. Jurišića, zbirka M.Stojanovića, arhiv Art Press.

Print: Gip KRUG

Art Press, Beograd, 2013

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Documents

Vladimir Anđelković SERBIAN FASHION