Vilnius In Your Pocket

N°101 - 6Ltwww.inyourpocket.com

VILNIUS

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Summer barsWhat the Big Bang was invented for

All Saints’ DayGet thee to the cemetery

“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well- written series of guidebooks.”

The New York Times

August - November 2010

�Contents

E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S

August - November 2010vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Basics 6Alcohol, electricity, visas and more

History 9A mind-boggling millennium

Culture & Events 11Just the ticket!

Where to stay 16Five-star luxury, hostels, camping, the lot

Dining & NightlifeWhere to eat 22Global nosh for all palates

Cafés 32Where to find the best espresso

Nightlife 36Beer, clubs and a little bit of nakedness

Contents

Sightseeing 46The city’s sights, large and small

Jewish Vilnius 57The essential guide to the city’s lost culture

Getting around 59When legs simply aren’t enough

Mail & Phones 63Late-opening post offices and internet cafés

DirectoryShopping 64Lifestyle 70Health 73Business 76

Maps & IndexCountry map 77Street register 78City centre map 79City map 80Index 82

Make the most of the short Lithuanian summer by spending as much time outside as you can, preferably with a bottle of beer in your hand. Arguably the best place to do this in Vilnius is at one of the city’s splendid summer bars.

Read more on p.38.

If you’re reading this in October and you’re wondering why the supermarkets are full of candles, the short answer to

your bewilderment is that it’s almost All Saints’ Day. Flip to p.56 to find out more.

� Foreword

Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com


Editorial Editor ScoContributor Alex WebberResearch Saulina KochanskaitėLayout & Design Vaida GudynaitėCover Andrew QuestedSales & CirculationPublisher Vilnius In Your PocketGeneral Manager Rūta KlimavičiūtėAccounting CO FinansaiSales Manager Rūta Klimavičiūtė

This guidebook and all of our other Lithuanian guides are available for sale from kiosks, tourist information centres, the Vilnius In Your Pocket office and other outlets throughout Vilnius and Lithuania as well as online at www.inyourpocket.com. Complimentary copies of Vilnius In Your Pocket are also available in many hotels.

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright UAB VIYP 1992-2010; some photos, LATGA-A; maps, cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokiečių 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76).

Editor’s noteThe editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers’ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

Vilnius In Your PocketVokiečių 10-15Vilnius, Lithuania, LT-01130mob. (+370) 610 468 64tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76fax (+370) 5 212 29 [email protected]

ISSN 1392-0057©UAB “VIYP”

Printed by UAB “Lietuvos ryto” spaustuvėPublished three times per year.

Greetings from sunny Vilnius, where at the time of going to press the city is caught in the grip of an extended spell of stupidly hot weather. Under the circumstances it seems fitting to announce another rare event, namely a temporary streamlining of operations here at Vilnius In Your Pocket HQ. For the first decade or so of its life, Vilnius In Your Pocket was published five times a year before being cranked up to six issues as the economy went into overdrive. Eagle-eyed economists will have noticed that the Lithuanian economy has suffered immense damage over the last couple of years, a fact that led to the decision to reduce the frequency of the guide. The copy of Vilnius In Your Pocket you’re now holding in your hands will be out and about until December, although rest assured the quality remains the same. Thus you’ll find in the same issue a feature on summer bars (see p.38) alongside some background information on the annual trip to the cemetery made in this part of the world on All Saints’ Day (see p.56), an event that requires the donning of scarves, gloves and woolly hats as winter fast approaches. Despite countless recent attempts by the locals to completely destroy it, the economy is finally on the up, albeit very slowly. Help do your bit by visiting one of the oddest yet beguiling cities in Europe and spending all your money. Comments, suggestions, high praise and death threats as usual to [email protected] if you’d be so kind.

Revealing two Vilnius treats in one photograph, in the background on the wall are the works of art known collectively as Literatų Gatvė (see p.53), the very name of the street on which they’re found. The chairs and tables in the foreground make up a dazzling innovation courtesy

of the nice people at Senamiesčio Krautuvė. Read more about them on p.67.

Cover story

In Your Pocket is once again breaking new ground. Fresh from bringing you the most up-to-date city guides around, we have recently gone Dutch with a move into the Netherlands. The first issue of ’s-Hertogenbosch In Your Pocket is now out, providing visitors to the city also known as Den Bosch with all the usual essential information an In Your Pocket guide provides. We also have a pilot issue of Vienna In Your Pocket out on the streets of the Austrian capital: you can download a free PDF copy of both of these new guides at our website, inyourpocket.com. To keep up with all In Your Pocket news and events, like In Your Pocket on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket).

Europe In Your Pocket

OZO STR. 25, WWW.AKROPOLIS.LT

Bring back the best shopping memories!

The biggest selection of shops, over 14 restaurants and the most of entertainment: a movie theatre, an ice rink, a bowling alley and a children playground.Everyday from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Tax free service at most of the shops.

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last but not least, you can still enjoy the full unpleasantness of the Soviet service industry courtesy of a frighteningly large percentage of the country’s shop assistants, public transport employees and waiting staff.

Crime & SafetyCrime is rampant in Lithuania, a great deal of it taking place inside the clandestine world of politics and consequently having little if no effect on the average visitor. Crimes closer to home include such petty annoyances as having bits of your car stolen to the inevitable disappearing purses and mobile phones. Don’t leave valuables in unattended pockets or lying around on tables. The chances of getting robbed in the street remain tiny. However, caution never did anybody any harm, and you’re advised not to flaunt your wallet in stupid places or announce to the entire world your huge wealth by wearing loud jewellery in quiet back streets. Walk tall, look like you know what you’re doing, and you won’t be troubled. Green-uniformed police (policija) are supposed to be keeping the peace in Old Town, although finding one when you need is like looking for the proverbial needle in the haystack.

CustomsThose arriving from other EU countries have no import restrictions placed upon them, although they will need to make it known if they’re arriving with more than €10,000 worth of cash. When arriving from non-EU countries you’re entitled to bring in one litre of spirits or two litres of wine or beer plus 200 cigarettes, 100 cigarillos, 50 cigars or 250g of tobacco. You can bring 50g of perfume and 250ml of eau de toilette. You can’t bring plants, meat, milk or dairy products from outside the EU except under certain circumstances. You can’t arrive with live birds. Dogs require vaccinations and passports (or other proof of vaccination). You can take home as much art as you wish tax free unless it’s over 50 years old, in which case expect to pay 10-20 per cent duty. Take two photographs of the art piece and your passport to the Committee of Cultural Heritage, Šnipiškių 3, tel. (+370) 5 273 42 56. Many of the better antique shops in Vilnius can take care of all the paperwork for you. For more detailed information check www.cust.lt, and for information on animal related arrivals, check www.vet.lt.

Population Lithuania 3,354,000 Vilnius 544,206

Ethnic composition (Lithuania) Lithuanians 84.3% Poles 6.2% Russians 5% Belarusians 1.1% Ukrainians 0.6% Others 2.8%

Territory 65,303km2 Roughly twice the size of Belgium, and the largest of the three Baltic nations. Fertile lowland, peppered with many lakes. North to south, the greatest distance is 276km, east to west is 373km

Borders Baltic Sea 99km Belarus 502km Latvia 453km Poland 91km Russia (Kaliningrad) 227km

Longest river Nemunas 937km (475km in Lithuania)

Largest lake Drūkščiai 4,479ha

Highest point Aukštasis 293.8m

Basic data

€1=3.45Lt £1=4.13Lt US$1=2.67Lt

(July 26, 2010)

Exchange rates

AlcoholAlmost without exception Lithuanian beer (alus) is light, crisp, cold, cheap and delicious. Many varieties exist and you’re recommended to test a few before settling on a regular brand. Among the more common varieties are the magnificent Švyturys from Klaipėda, Utenos from Utena and Kalnapilis from Panevėžys. Perhaps surprisingly, Vilnius can’t claim its own brewery. If you want to drink beer made in the capital you’ll have to drink it in a microbrewery (see Nightlife). Be warned, Lithuanian beers tend to be stronger than their Western counterparts, making the forming of the simplest words (such as alus) a challenge after just a couple of the most lethal. In Old Town expect to pay somewhere in the region of 6-12Lt for half a litre. Lithuanian vodka (degtinė) is cheap, generally of good quality and is drunk with gusto at the mere rumour of the dropping of a hat. Among the more interesting spirits are starka, a 15th-century Polish-Lithuanian concoction of dark, syrupy rye vodka fortified with apple leaves and lime blossom, and the local illicit firewater, samagonas, available through the right connections. Take note that imported alcohol isn’t cheap. Don’t go falling into the trap of thinking that because the local stuff is giveaway everything else is too. Check prices before a session to avoid an embarrassingly large bill at the end of the evening. At the time of writing it was illegal to buy alcohol in shops between 22:00 and 08:00 anywhere in Lithuania, one of the country’s more cynical pieces of legislation that does nothing except penalise the country’s poor. October 2010 sees the issue battled out in the corridors of power, the expected result a slight improvement on the current situation by an hour or so.

BordersLithuania is bordered by the Baltic Sea, Belarus, Latvia, Poland and the peculiar Russian exclave born out of the ashes of WWII and the disintegration of the Soviet Union that is Kaliningrad. EU membership and Schengen agreements have as good as removed all border formalities with Latvia and Poland whilst getting in an out of Belarus and Kaliningrad remains wrapped up in red tape for holders of most passports. Visas for both can be obtained from the Belarusian and Russian embassies in Vilnius as well as from a few travel agencies. Visas for Kaliningrad are now available if you arrive there by air. For more information about getting in and out of Lithuania, see the website at www.pasienis.lt.

CommunismOstalgie never really caught on with the Lithuanians, which is a shame because Lithuania boasts some fine examples of Soviet architecture and design to entice potential new visitors in abundance. Those toying with the idea of coming with the intention of Soviet sightseeing should take note however that the situation is changing fairly rapidly. Hammers and sickles have almost entirely vanished in Vilnius with the exception of a tiny one on the northeastern Green Bridge (Žaliasis Tiltas) statue plus a few tell-tale marks where they once graced the sides of State buildings. Structures of note include the imposing rows of socialist-realist monstrosities at the western end of Gedimino and the minimalist concrete curves of the Wedding Palace (Santuokų Rūmai) on top of the hill close to the green onion domes of the Church of Sts. Michael & Constantine. Beautiful, Soviet-era designs can also be found inside the capital’s Neringa restaurant, and,

The three main points of arrival in Vilnius offer very differ-ent experiences indeed, making your first few minutes in the city anything from a pleasure to a pain. Improvements are taking place all the time. Print copies of Vilnius In Your Pocket can be bought from kiosks inside the airport, bus and train stations for just 6Lt.

By bus Vilnius’ rather depressing bus station (Autobusų Stotis) is located less that 1km south of Old Town in a less than salubrious, albeit perfectly safe area. Not geared up for foreign arrivals in the slightest, facilities are located inside one large grey building and include kiosks and shops for snacks, maps, cigarettes and prepaid mobile phone cards, downstairs toilets (1Lt) and ATMs. For 24-hour currency exchange, use the Parex bank across the street and just to the right of the train station. Getting to town Get to Old Town in a few minutes by turning left on exiting the station and walking down the hill (Sodų). Countless buses, minibuses and trolleybuses can be found in the immediate area, all going off in different directions around the city and none of them offering a lot of help for people who don’t speak Lithuanian. Among the useful trolleybuses going through the city centre are Nº1, 2, 5 and 7. Buy a ticket from the driver for 2.50Lt. Taxis are parked up in a number of places. Expect to pay 20Lt or even more for a short trip to Old Town. Calling a taxi in advance is the best option.

By plane Vilnius International Airport (Tarptautinis Vilniaus Oro Uostas) is just 5km south of the city centre. Even if you’re landing from a non-Schengen country, arrival formalities are quick and relatively pain free. After collecting your luggage find a compact arrivals hall complete with a kiosk for snacks, maps, cigarettes and prepaid mobile phone cards, ATMs and currency exchange offices. Toilets are to the right, and car rental companies to the left. Getting to town A taxi to Old Town using one of the vehicles parked outside the arrivals terminal will cost about 50Lt. Calling one in advance will cost considerably less. If you’re travelling to the centre and don’t mind a bit of walking, save a fortune and take public transport. The bus stop is to the left of the taxi stand. Bus Nº1 goes to the train station and bus Nº2 to Lukiškių Aikštė and north over the river past the Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva. A timetable is posted at the stop. Buy a ticket from the driver for 2.50Lt. Alternatively, hop on a train and in under 10 minutes be at the train station in the centre of the city. Buy a ticket on board for just 2Lt. The aiport train station can be found along the road outside the main exit and on the left. Trains leave every hour or so from around 07:00 until 20:00.

By train The train station (Geležinkelio Stotis) is fairly large by local standards and unfortunately not very well signposted in English. Find kiosks and shops for snacks, maps, cigarettes and prepaid mobile phone cards scat-tered in and around the building, free toilets downstairs, ATM’s between the local and international ticket offices and a 24-hour Parex bank outside to the left for chang-ing money. The train station also has a small tourist information kiosk, which among other things features friendly staff who speak English. Getting to town Get to Old Town in a few minutes by going straight ahead on exiting the station and walking down the hill (Sodų). The train station is just across the street from the bus station. See By bus for more information.

Arriving in Vilnius Emergency numbersPolice Fire Ambulance Tel. 112

Disabled travellersWhile things have greatly improved for the disabled over the past few years, Lithuania is still a tough place to get around on anything other than two well functioning legs. Even places that claim to be wheelchair friendly are often flanked by deep kerbs or stairs, or are located on cobbled streets. Outside the capital, you’ll be lucky to find any thought given to wheelchair accessibility at all. The newer trolleybuses in Vilnius have low entries, spaces for wheelchairs, and hearing loops.

DrivingThe common or garden Lithuanian driver is notable for possessing certain eccentric habits almost unheard of in the West. A typical, edge-of-the-seat adventure sat beside a local Lewis Hamilton comes with lashings of tailgating, cut-ting lanes and dangerous overtaking manoeuvres. It comes as no great surprise to non-Italian Westerners who’ve been in the country for more than a couple of days to learn that Lithuania has the highest rate of road fatalities in the Euro-pean Union. If you’re unfortunate enough to be involved in an accident in which any material or personal damage occurs, you must leave your vehicle exactly where it is, call the police (tel. (+370) 5 271 99 00) and wait for them to arrive. Even if your car is obstructing the flow of traffic, don’t move it until the police get there and have danced about the wreckage with a tape measure and some lollipops, drawn some little pictures, and given you the all-clear. Not only is leaving the scene of an accident an offence, but the lack of an official police report will give insurance companies the excuse they’re looking for not to pay. Seat belts must be worn and headlights must be on at all times while driving. All vehicles must be fitted with a small fire extinguisher and carry a first-aid kit, a reflective road-side warning triangle and a reflective safety-vest. You must have your vehicle registration papers and licence with you at all times. During the winter, you’ll also want to make sure you have an ice scraper and maybe a brush for getting all the weather off your car before you set off. Winter tyres are mandatory from November 10. In and around town the speed limit is 50km/h unless indicated otherwise. Elsewhere you can drive at 90km/h on asphalt roads and 70km/h on dirt roads, and on highways you can drive at 130km/h until November 1, when you’ll have to stick to 110km/h. On the A1 (E85) between Vilnius and Kaunas, you must stick to 100km/h all year.

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ElectricityLovely Lithuanian domestic electricity flows out the walls at 220V, AC 50Hz, and nearly all sockets are of the round two-pin European variety. Some thinner Russian sockets still exist, although if you push hard enough you should get the plug in. Travellers from non-socket-friendly societies should bring an appropriate adaptor, as they’re almost impossible to find in Lithuania.

FloorsThe Lithuanians consider the floor at street level to be the first floor, and so on.

LanguageLithuanian is a very odd language indeed. One of the oldest still spoken today, the tongue that time forgot is supposedly similar in grammatical form as well as sharing many of the same words with, of all things, Sanskrit. With seven noun cases, four declension patterns, absolutely no similarity to anything you’ve ever heard before and an obligation to pronounce the stress on every word in the right place to stand any chance whatsoever of being understood, getting to grips with the local lingo is at best tough. Thankfully, most places where tourists congregate in the country are now fairly English-friendly, plus Lithuania’s rich cultural past has left an accumulation of polyglots nationwide, with Russian spoken almost everywhere, Polish in and around the capital and German the closer you get to the coast.

Money & CostsThe unit of currency in Lithuanian is the litas (Lt), which comes in denominations of 10Lt, 20Lt, 50Lt, 100Lt, 200Lt and 500Lt notes, 1Lt, 2Lt and 5Lt coins and a number of weightless, worthless and perfectly useless centai/centų coins. The litas is pegged to the euro at the rate of 3.45Lt to €1. Most places of any note in Vilnius happily accept major credit cards, and ATMs joyfully spew out money to any foreigner with money in their account. If you’re planning a trip to the countryside however, make sure you take plenty of cash along as it can still be rather old fashioned to say the least. Vilnius is no longer the cheap city for foreigners it used to be, although it still offers value to most visitors from the West. A good night out for two in Vilnius’ Old Town including a meal in a posh restaurant followed by drinks in a bar and a club to finish off won’t leave you with much change, if any change at all, from €100. Most prices have rocketed of late, although short-term accommodation is still extremely good value.

ReligionContemporary Lithuania is a predominantly Catholic country with almost 80 per cent of the population pledging allegiance to the Pope. Pagan Lithuanians avoided Christianity until relatively late in European history, finally converting for political reasons in 1387 in the eastern half of the country and in 1413 in the west. The country’s pagan heritage can still be seen in many aspects of life including the days of the week (literally First Day, Second Day etc.), the continued naming of its female population after flowers and plants and the countless festivals throughout the year that remain very much as they were before the coming of Christianity. The area that makes up contemporary Lithuania has historically been the proud home of countless religions over the centuries, among them Russian Orthodox, Protestant, Muslim and of course Judaism, of which the former makes up the second largest population at just under five per cent. It’s considered polite for men to remove their hats and women to cover their shoulders when visiting a Catholic church.

ServiceAnyone who spends more than a couple of days immersed in Lithuanian life can’t fail to notice just how extraordinarily indifferent if not just plain rude some public servants can be. From the middle-aged lady in the post office to the waitress in the expensive restaurant you’re dining in, don’t be surprised to get no eye contact, and if you do get eye contact, don’t be too surprised either to watch those eyes roll with utter contempt. Even the ever-increasing examples of friendly service here often come with an ineptitude of mammoth proportions, so, if you’re sensitive to these things be prepared to bite your lip and suffer. If there’s a culprit at work then it’s surely management, from the mandarins who oversee the large state organisations to the bar owners who can’t be bothered to train their staff.

SmokingIf it’s Lithuanian and it’s got a lung that works then it probably smokes. Many popular international cigarette brands are readily available, and cigars, pipes, rolling tobacco and cigarette papers are also reasonably well represented. Compared to somewhere like the UK, cigarettes in Lithuania are ridiculously cheap. Lithuania’s pipe-smoking former Prime Minister Gediminas Kirkilas not so long ago forgot to remember that smoking is banned in all cafés, bars, restaurants, and clubs. He should have checked our listings for venues with special smoking rooms and avoided a 1,000Lt fine.

ToiletsJust utter the two magic words kur tualetas? (where’s the toilet?) and away you go. Bars and hotels happily let you use their facilities, although some have started to enforce a small charge for non-patrons. With the exception of a few non-tourist bars, all toilets are clean and are stocked with plenty of paper and soap. A ghastly relic from days gone by that refuses to go away even in many of the swankiest establishments is the provision of a filthy bucket, kept next to the toilet, and used for the collection of spent paper.

VisasLithuania is a member of the European Union and the Schengen area. Visitors from the EU as well as from 30 or so other countries including Australia, Canada, Japan, New Zealand, Singapore, South Korea and the United States don’t require a visa to stay for up to 90 days within a six month period. A visa issued for any Schengen country is also valid in Lithuania. For more information, take a look at www.urm.lt.

D u r i n g t h e W \W I G erman occupat ion o f 1915 -191 8 th e Lithuanian Council pro-claims independence on February 16, 1918. As the Germans retreat, the Li thuanian state

comes under attack by the Polish General Józef Piłsudski (1867-1935) who seizes control of Vilnius and areas south of it from 1920-1939. Poland maintains control of these areas by claiming they were a portion of the pre-war Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. Kaunas becomes the interim capital of Lithuania until 1940. During the inter-war period independent Lithuania prospers under the 14-year dictatorship (1926-1940) of the nationalist president Antanas Smetona (1874-1944). Lithuanian independence ends with the clandestine signing on August 23, 1939 of the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact between Hitler and Stalin, who carve up Europe into portions to be controlled by Nazi Germany and the Soviet Union. Lithuania is subject to both Soviet and Nazi occupation. Between 1941-1944 the Nazis and their Lithuanian henchmen organise the mass murder of over 200,000 Jews, 94% of the entire Litvak population. The return of the Red Army and the re-incorporation of Lithuania into the USSR on July 7, 1944 results in the deportation of some 250,000 Lithuanians to Siberia, a task they‘d already begun in 1941 before the Nazis arri-ved. Lithuanian partisans, dubbed the Forest Brothers (Miško Broliai), wage guerrilla warfare until 1953. In an act of protest against the Soviet occupation, on May 14, 1972 19-year-old student Romas Kalanta sets fire to himself in public in Kaunas, dying from his wounds.

20th centuryThe Lithuanian state arose and strengthened to counter the religious fervour of crusading German knights. Lithuania was the last European country to convert to Christianity. Its history is both bloody and exceedingly complicated 7th-2nd centuries BC The first Baltic tribes establish themselves on what’s now known as Lithuanian territory. 11th century The word Lithuania is first used in written texts in AD1009. At the same time, a wooden castle is built on Vilnius’ Gediminas Hill (Gedimino Kalnas), leading to the construction of a diminutive settlement beneath it. 13th centuryŽemaitians defeat the Livonian Knights at the Battle of Saulė in 1236, establishing the settlement of Šiauliai. After uniting local chieftains, on July 6, 1253 Mindaugas (circa 1203-1263) is crowned Lithuania’s one and only king. During his reign as the first Christian sovereign of the state, Vilnius Cathedral is built. However, the majority of the population remains pagan. 14th century In 1323 Grand Duke Gediminas (circa 1275-1341) sends letters to various Germanic-speaking towns, inviting their craftsmen and merchants to settle in Vilnius with the promise of religious freedom. Trying to ensure peace, in 1325 he forms a union with Poland by marrying his daughter Aldona to the Polish king’s son. The Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth comes into being with the 1387 Krėva Union, whereby Gediminas’ grandson Jogaila (circa 1348-1434) becomes a Polish king by marrying the Polish Princess Jadwiga (circa 1373-1399). Even with the increased security, the Teutonic Knights still manage to invade, resulting in the 1390 burning of the wood-constructed Vilnius. 15th century The Teutonic Knights are eventually defeated on July 15, 1410 by joint Polish-Lithuanian armies led by Jogaila and Grand Duke Vytautas (1350-1430) at the Battle of Grunwald (Lithuanian, Žalgiris. German, Tannenberg), one of the greatest battles in medieval Europe. The country flourishes and by 1430 the borders extend from the Baltic to the Black Sea. 16th century The Renaissance sees marked cultural advances, notably the printing of the first Lithuanian book in 1547, and the founding of Vilnius University in 1579. The end of the Jogaila dynasty in 1572 results in the political and cultural marginalisation of Lithuania. Polish becomes the state language. The Livonian Wars (1558-1582) with Russia and Sweden drain the Commonwealth’s resources. 18th century At the start of the 18th century both Swedish and Russian forces try to seize control of Vilnius. In 1795 Lithuania is incorporated into tsarist Russia. The 120-year Russian occupation is only interrupted by a short liberation by Napoleon’s army in 1812 on his failed campaign to Moscow. During the Napoleonic army’s return through Vilnius nearly 40,000 of his soldiers die due to starvation and extreme cold. 19th century Vilnius University acts as a hotbed of dissent against the tsarist government, culminating in the 1831 November Uprising, which leads to the closing of the institution. Russification ensues with non-Orthodox churches forcibly closed, the Lithuanian language banned in 1864 and the country named the Northwest Region. The ban on the Latin script forces the smuggling in of books from neighbouring East Prussia. Another uprising takes place in 1863 and General Muravyov (The Hangman) is sent from Moscow to restore order, resulting in deaths by hanging for

most of the leading activists. The repression is countered and defied by a revival of Lithuanian culture and tradition. In 1883 Jonas Basanavičius (1851-1927) publishes the first Lithuanian-language newspaper, Auszra (Aušra, or Dawn).

Independence & Beyond1988 June 3 The Lithuanian reform movement Sąjūdis is founded by some 500 representatives of the intelligentsia, advocating openness, democracy and sovereignty. August 23 Some 250,000 people gather in Vilnius to mark the 49th anniversary of the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact. October 7 The Lithuanian flag is raised on Gediminas Castle. 1989 February 16 Lithuanian Independence Day is officially commemorated. August 23 An estimated 2,000,000 Lithuanians, Latvians and Estonians join hands in a human chain stretching the 650km between Vilnius and Tallinn to protest the 50th anniversary of the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact. 1990 January 11-13 Mikhail Gorbachev‘s visit to Vilnius is far from pleasant as 300,000 pro-independence demonstrators turn out to ‚welcome‘ him. March 4 Pro-independence Sąjūdis candidates receive an overall majority in the first free elections in Lithuania since 1940. March 11 The Supreme Council (later to become Parliament, or Seimas) declares the restoration of Lithuanian independence and demands the withdrawal of Soviet forces. Dr. Vytautas Landsbergis is elected parliamentary chairman. April 17 Moscow imposes an economic blockade.

Lithuanians would celebrate the opening of an envelope. The following are the official public holidays.January 1 New Year’s Day & National Flag Day February 16 Independence Day March 11 Restoration of Independence April 24 (2011) Easter Sunday (Catholic)April 25 (2011) Easter Monday (Catholic)May 1 A day off for the workers!May 1 (2011) Mothers’ DayJune 24 Joninės, or Midsummer July 6 Crowning of King MindaugasAugust 15 Žolinė (Assumption) November 1 All Saints’ Day December 25, 26 Christmas (Catholic)

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1991 January 13 Soviet forces try unsuccessfully to storm the parliamentary building in Vilnius. A large crowd ensures the delegates are safe inside. However, during the Soviet bid to reclaim the media by storming the Television Tower, 14 people are killed. February 12 Iceland becomes the first country to recognise an independent Lithuania. July 31 Seven border guards and policemen are killed at the Medininkai border checkpoint by Soviet Special Forces. August 21 The Moscow putsch collapses. Soviet troops leave the buildings they‘ve occupied since January. Lenin‘s statue is removed from Vilnius’ Lukiškių Aikštė (Lukiškės Square). A photograph of the event appears on the cover of Issue N°1 of Vilnius In Your Pocket, published on May 1, 1992. August 29 Sweden becomes the first Western country to open an embassy in Vilnius. September 2 The USA recognises Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia. September 17 All three Baltic countries are re-admitted into the UN. 1992 February 8 Lithuanians participate under their own flag at the Winter Olympics for the first time since 1928. 1993 June 25 Lithuania’s pre-war currency, the litas, is re-introduced. August 31 The last Russian soldier leaves Lithuania. September 4-8 Pope John Paul II visits. 1994 December Vilnius’ Old Town joins the list of Unesco World Heritage sites. 1997 July 1 The Lithuanian Parliament (Seimas) passes a property restitution law, allowing pre-war property owners and their descendants to reclaim property nationalised under the Soviet regime. 1998 January 4 Valdas Adamkus is elected president. Adamkus, who fled Lithuania in 1944, was a senior official at the Environmental Protection Agency in Chicago before returning to Lithuania to run for president. December 21 Seimas abolishes the death penalty in response to international pressure from the EU. 1999 December 13 Accession talks begin between Lithuania and the EU with a projected date of 2004. A major stumbling block is the decommissioning of the Ignalina Nuclear Power Plant.

21st century2000 At the Sydney Olympics Lithuania wins two gold and three bronze medals. The basketball team wins its third Olympic bronze coming within a few points of beating the American dream team for gold.

2001 June 23-27 The Dalai Lama visits Lithuania, visiting various sites in Vilnius and Kaunas. 2002 February 2 The litas switches pegging from the US dollar to the euro in readiness for EU accession, into which the country is invited to join on October 9. November 22 Lithuania is invited to become a member of Nato. George Bush visits Vilnius the following day, becoming the first US president to visit the city. 2003 In the January 5 run-off election, president Valdas Adamkus is voted out of office by the 46-year-old right wing underdog Rolandas Paksas. May 10-11 A staggering 91% of the 64% of the population who turned out to vote give a resounding Yes to EU membership. 2004 Jan-April Impeachment hearings take place as president Rolandas Paksas is found guilty of violating the Lithuanian constitution and his oath as president in his dealings with unsavoury Russian business partners. April 2 Lithuania becomes a fully-fledged member of Nato and the EU on May 1. June 27 A 77-year-old Valdas Adamkus is re-elected president. July Virgilijus Alekna, whose day job is protecting the president, wins a gold medal at the Athens Olympics in the discus. December 31 The Ignalina Nuclear Power Plant says farewell to the first of its two RBMK reactors. 2005 September 15 A Russian SU-27 fighter veers off course and crashes 55km north of Kaunas. December 13 The Lithuanian Supreme Court acquits former president Rolandas Paksas, but leaves his impeachment in place.

2006 May 16 Lithuania becomes the first EU member state to have its application to adopt the euro rejected due to an unsatisfactory inflation rate. May 13 Prime Minister Algirdas Brazauskas and his coalition government resign as two ministers face allegations of corruption. October 17-18 Queen Elizabeth II and her husband, the Duke of Edinburgh, visit Vilnius. 2007 November 28 President Valdas Adamkus is awarded the title of European of the Year by the European Voice newspaper. December 21 Lithuania joins the Schengen zone, allowing borderless travel to and from other Schengen countries. December 22 The Lithuanian Television and Radio Commission bans broadcasting of the Voice of Russia radio station.

2008 June Lithuania outlaws the public display of Nazi and Soviet symbols. August While most public attention is on basketball, Edvinas Krungolcas and Andrejus Zadneprovskis win silver and bronze respectively in the modern pentathlon at the Beijing Olympics. The Lithuanian basketball team reach the semi-finals but eventually come home empty handed.

2009 Lithuania celebrates 1,000 years since its name was first mentioned in written texts. January 17 With 90Lt million of mounting debts, the national airline, flyLAL, suspends all services. Dalia Grybauskaitė, the so-called Iron Lady, is inaugurated as Lithuania’s first female president on July 12. December 31 Vilnius bows out of a disastrous year as European Capital of Culture on the same day as the Ignalina Nuclear Power Plant closes for good.

2010 Lithuania celebrates 20 years of independence from the Soviet Union on March 11.

2011 Lithuania commemorates the centenary of the death of the painter and composer Mikalojus Konstantinas Čiurlionis.

Christopher Summer FestivalUntil August 31Running since the mid-1990s, the annual Christopher Summer Festival is one of the main highlights of the capital’s cultural calendar. This year’s festival features a cracking collection of talent from around the world, most of it from the world of classical music. Don’t miss the quirky cello trio from Latvia, Melo-M, resplendent in dreadful 1970s red suits and churning out a repertoire of classics from all areas of the world of music. See www.kristupofestivaliai.lt for more.

Rock NightsAugust 6 - 7This year’s Rock Nights, on an island in the town of Zarasai some 150km north of Vilnius close to the Latvian border is headlined by The Subways, from the very rock-and-roll English town of Welwyn Garden City. Expect a gaggle of similar-minded minor stars from around Europe. The official website can be found at www.rocknights.lt.

Satta OutsideAugust 13 - 15The capital’s notorious underground club’s (see p.40) annual holiday takes place this year in the diminutive seaside resort of Šventoji (see sventoji.inyourpocket.com) some 350km west of Vilnius on the Baltic Sea coast. Satta themselves state that this year’s event will focus on a mixture of beats/avant-garde and underground hip hop per formers from home and abroad, although plenty more is in store including beach volleyball, table tennis and canoeing. For more, see the informative www.sattaoutside.lt.

Cannibal CorpseAugust 17Controversial US outfit Death Metal grace the stage at Vilnius’ New York (see p.45) on August 17. You have been warned.

Mėnuo JuodaragisAugust 27 - 29The 13th Mėnuo Juodaragis kicks off on August near Aukštadvaris a few kilometres west of the capital. A folk festival with a sting in its tail, acts include Sol Invictus from the UK and a battalion of other acts from Lithuania and beyond. Tune into www.mjt.lt to see what all the fuss is about.

Sting & the Royal Philharmonic Concert OrchestraSeptember 17Doing exactly what it says on the tin, former Police front man and global sensation Sting drops into Vilnius’ Siemens Arena (see p.13) as part of his world tour. In a nutshell he’ll be performing a number of his hits set to an orchestral accompaniment.

Sergej BabkinOctober 16The Ukrainian actor and singer Sergej Babkin (b. 1978) plays Havana Social Club in October. Unknown to us, his Polish-language Wikipedia entry claims when he’s not treading the boards he’s performing a mix of reggae, raga and hip-hop.

Glenn Miller OrchestraOctober 23Established in 1956, the Glenn Miller orchestra has been touring the world tirelessly and successfully albeit without their namesake who disappeared over the English Channel way back in 1944. Those who appreciate Miller’s unique swing style won’t be disappointed. They appear for one night only at the city’s Pramogų Arena (see p.13)

Vilnius City Days September 3 - 5 Music of all variet-ies plus art, street theatre, fashion and more at venues throughout the city.

Banchetto Musicale September 18 - October 10Medieval, Renaissance and Baroque music, dance and theatre in churches and other buildings around the city centre.

Sirenos October 4 - 17 The annual international theatre festival featuring theatre in all its forms.

Vilnius Jazz October 14 - 17 The capital’s oldest jazz festival showcasing all styles from home and abroad in a host of venues city-wide.

Gaida October 22 - 30 A recommended contemporary music festival. Artists of repute from Lithuania and fur-ther afield in numerous city-centre venues.

Vilnius Mama Jazz (November 17 - 20 Hit and miss jazz of all persuasions from this now well established festival.

Full details in English at www.vilniusfestivals.lt.

Festivals in brief

Until December 31A fa s c i n a t i n g l o o k i n t o t h e world o f Euro -pean women’s fashion between 1837 and 1901 is currently on s h o w a t t h e c i t y ’s App l i e d A r t M u s e u m (see p.46). Part of the Russian fashion exper t a n d h i s t o -r ian Alexandre Vassil iev’s pri -vate collection, th e exh i b i t i on f e a t u r e s 5 0 e x a m p l e s o f authentic cloth-ing plus acces-sories including fans, parasols, purses, stran-gulating corsets and other items

including paintings and photographs that together chart the changing face of fashion throughout the continent at the time.

Fashion of the Victorian Era

12 Culture & events


1�Culture & events


Until August 29Timed to coincide with the 120th anniversary of his birth, Vytautas Kairiūkštis (Witold Kajruksztis, 1890-1961) was a prominent artist, art historian and teacher famed for his Modernist leanings. As well as examples of his own work, the exhibition features miscellaneous piece from his contemporaries including Władyslaw Strzemiński, Henryk Stażewski, Mieczysław Szczuka and Teresa Żarnover. The show takes place inside the city’s National Art Gallery (see p.48).

Vytautas Kairiūkštis and his Milieu

Vytautas Kairiūkštis. The City. Circa 1922. Courtesy of Lithuanian Art Museum

Sofia RotaruOctober 24Born in 1947, the Ukrainian pop singer of Moldovan heritage is a former Soviet star who’s managed to keep going. With over 40 albums under her belt, Rotaru will be performing favourites from several of them at the Siemens Arena (see p.13) on October 24.

a-haNovember 2The 80s Norwegian superstars are really performing at the Siemens Arena (see p.13) on November 2? A-ha.

Mireille MathieuNovember 26The French singer of note Mireille Mathieu (b. 1946) sings in a total of nine languages and is popular throughout the world for her distinctive pop and cabaret style. See her at Vilnius’ Pramogų Arena (see p.13) in November.

Arts & CraftsAmatų Gildija B-4, Pranciškonų 6, tel. (+370) 5 212 05 20, www.amatugildija.puslapiai.lt. The ceramic art-ist Mindaugas Rutkauskas is almost completely blind yet manages to produce some great ceramics from classic earthenware crockery to complete ceramic stoves. He shares this workshop with several other artists. Feel free to have a look around. Most of the work on display is for sale. Also at S. Skapo 3 - 34. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JDelmonas H-4, J. Basanavičiaus 16/5 (entrance on Mindaugo), tel. (+370) 686 211 31. Traditional fabrics including painting on silk and things made from flax. Regular workshops are available for those who’d like to get involved

Until September 5www.ndg.ltNational Art GalleryExploring the role of women in Lithuania in the 20th century through sculpture and film, this recommended exhibition presents a fine selection of both, predominantly but not exclusively created during the Soviet era. Laid out on two floors, rare for Lithuania are explanations not only in English but in readable English. The films unfortunately are in the local lingo only, but the 3-dimensional work speaks for itself.

Woman’s Time. Sculpture and Film

R. Antinis Eglė, Queen of Serpents, 1957 © National Art Gallery

rather than just buy. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.Jonas Bugailiškis Art Studio C-5, Aušros Vartų 17-10, tel. (+370) 652 366 13. A local mini-celebrity knocking out all manner of fabulous wooden eccentricities based on a combination of traditional Lithuanian folk art and the contents of a very unique mind. By appointment only.JManufaktūra Jūratė C-4, Didžioji 20/1, tel. (+370) 5 231 40 05, www.jurate.eu. Original, stylish clothing made from linen inside a combined shop and workshop. Check the website for more information. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JMeno Niša A-3, J. Basanavičiaus 1/13, tel. (+370) 5 231 38 11, www.menonisa.lt. Art to hang on your body as opposed to your wall, this combined gallery and workshop presents some of the best examples of the work of Lithua-nian goldsmiths. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JMolio Laumė (Black Ceramics Workshop Gallery) A-4/5, Naugarduko 20, tel. (+370) 699 424 56, www.ceramics.w3.lt. The ancient art of black ceramics brought to life inside this intriguing little hands-on gallery. Buy examples of the craft or attend one of their regular workshops. QOpen 12:00 - 17:00, Sat 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JTautodailininko Dirbtuvė G-4, J. Basanavičiaus 29, tel. (+370) 686 108 04, www.klaidaspapercuts.lt. Folk artist Klaidas Navickas works as a lawyer during the day and creates some exquisite works of art using just a scalpel and piece of paper in his spare time. Known in Lithuanian as karpiniai, this old craft, which has been used to decorate homes during special celebrations for centuries, is available for sale, or with patience and a steady hand you can learn how to do it yourself. Q Open 17:00 - 20:00, Wed, Thu 15:00 - 19:00, Fri 16:00 - 19:00. Sat, Sun call in advance.Užupio Galerija D-3, Užupio 3, tel. (+370) 5 231 23 18, www.uzupiogalerija.lt. A tiny gallery dealing in exclusive metal and enamel works from a range of Lithuanian artists. A combined workshop and gallery, you’ll usually find somebody working there, who’ll be only too pleased to explain what they’re up to. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JAUžupio Kalvystės Galerija - Muziejus I-4, Užupio 26, tel. (+370) 5 215 37 57, www.vilniauskalviai.lt. A small working gallery dedicated to the art of the blacksmith. Watch people at work, buy something as a unique gift or souvenir or ask about their regular workshops. QOpen 10:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:30 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

CinemaFilms are usually shown in their original language with Lithuanian subtitles.

Forum Cinemas Vingis G-4, Savanorių 7, tel. 1567, www.forumcinemas.lt. Mostly popular Hollywood films inside a dedicated multiplex close to the city centre. Also at Ozo 25 (Akropolis).

Lithuanian Film Centre (Lietuvių Filmų Centras) Vasario 16-osios 13, www.lfc.lt. Promoting Lithuanian film and film-related issues, the Lithuanian Film Centre also screens a few films and hosts the occasional film festival.Ozo Kino Salė H-1, Ozo 4, tel. (+370) 646 861 71. North of the city, this basic cinema that can’t guarantee heating during the winter is worth a mention for being one of the few places in town to catch arthouse films.Pasaka B-3, Šv. Ignoto 4/3, tel. (+370) 5 261 15 16, www.kinopasaka.lt. A compact Old Town cinema specialising in predominantly independent and/or arthouse films from a wide range of directors including Woody Allen and the interesting Lithuanian film maker Janina Lapinskaitė. JSkalvija H-3, A. Goštauto 2/15, tel. (+370) 5 261 05 05, www.skalvija.lt. The best place in the city for arthouse and underground cinema and meeting people who like it in the attached café-bar.

Concert hallsLithuanian Music & Theatre Academy (Lietuvos Muzikos ir Teatro Akademija) G-3, Gedimino 42, tel. (+370) 5 261 26 91, www.lmta.lt. The place to come and see performances by the cream of the country’s next genera-tion of professional musicians. Concerts including established performers and conductors from Lithuania and abroad also take place here from time to time. JLithuanian National Philharmonic (Lietuvos Nacionalinė Filharmonija) C-5, Aušros Vartų 5, tel. (+370) 5 266 52 33, www.nationalphilharmonic.eu. Featuring a concert hall and a smaller chamber hall, the Lithuanian National Symphony Orchestra was established in 1940. Concerts are performed by a range of ensembles in-cluding the aforementioned orchestra as well as the Čiurlionis String Quartet and the chamber ensemble Musica Humana to name but a few. Q Box office open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Mon. JAPiano.lt B-4, Trakų 9/1 (entrance on Kėdainių), tel. (+370) 5 203 28 91, www.piano.lt. Hidden away down an Old Town backstreet, this small concert hall arranges concerts of many types including classical and jazz. These are the people you should visit if you’re thinking of buying a new piano. JPramogų Arena E-2, Ąžuolyno 9, tel. (+370) 5 242 44 44, www.pramoguarena.lt. A large ice-skating rink on the outskirts of the city that also hosts the occasional concert, the Pramogų Arena is one of the venues for the annual Vilnius Jazz Festival.Siemens Arena H-1, Ozo 14, tel. (+370) 5 247 75 76, www.siemens-arena.com. The quintessential all-purpose arena staging everything from international basketball matches to big name rock concerts. ASt. Catherine’s Church (Šv. Kotrynos Bažnyčia) B-3, Vilniaus 30, tel. (+370) 5 262 04 21, www.kultura.lt. A city-owned concert space inside a magnificent, converted 18th-century Baroque church. Concerts are varied and often very good indeed. JŪkio Banko Teatro Arena I-3, Olimpiečių 3, tel. (+370) 683 773 57, www.teatroarena.lt. The main venue for the OKT theatre company (see Theatres), this large place on the edge of town is also a concert venue among other things.Vilnius Congress Hall (Vilniaus Kongresų Rūmai) B-1, Vilniaus 6/14, tel. (+370) 5 261 88 28, www.lvso.lt. Home to the Lithuanian State Symphony Orchestra, this city-centre venue features some fine acoustics and organ-ises everything from serious classical concerts to shows for children. Q Box office open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA

August sees the recently opened Pasaka cinema (see 13) venturing outdoors for a month of screenings under the stars in the courtyard at Piano.lt (see 13). Among several films in their own language with Lithuanian subtitles are four in English (Bright Star (Aug 6), Whip It (Aug 20), Two Lovers (Aug 21), 2 Days in Paris (Aug 27)). Films are screened on Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings from 22:00.

Outdoor cinema

Cultural centresAmerica Center B-4, Akmenų 7, tel. (+370) 5 266 53 00, vilnius.usembassy.gov. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JBritish Council A-1, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 5 264 48 90, www.britishcouncil.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JDanish Cultural Institute B-3, Vilniaus 39/6-208, tel. (+370) 5 212 24 12, www.dki.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JFrench Cultural Centre C-3, Didžioji 1, tel. (+370) 5 219 96 96, www.centrefrancais.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. JGoethe Institute B-2, Gedimino 5, tel. (+370) 5 231 44 33, www.goethe.de/vilnius. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Closed until Aug 6. JItalian Cultural Institute C-3, Universiteto 4, tel. (+370) 5 261 10 76, www.iicvilnius.esteri.it. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JJapanese Information & Cultural Centre (Japoni-jos Informacijos ir Kultūros Centras) G-4, M. K. Čiurlionio 82b, tel. (+370) 5 231 04 65. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Nordic Council of Ministers Office (Šiaurės Ministrų Tarybos Biuras) D-3, Didžioji 5, tel. (+370) 5 212 22 11, www.norden.lt. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JPoland Institute (Lenkijos Institutas) C-4, Didžioji 23, tel. (+370) 5 264 93 32, www.lenkukultura.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.JRussian Cultural Centre C/D-3, Išganytojo 2/4, tel. (+370) 5 212 32 36, www.rkc.lt. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Closed until Aug 12. J

1� Culture & events


15Culture & events


BalletSeptember

22 18:30 La Sylphide H. Løvenskjold29 18:30 Coppéllia L. Delbies30 18:30 Don Quixote L. A. MinkusOctober1 18:30 La Bayadère L. A. Minkus2 18:30 Giselle A. Adam8 18:30 Zorba the Greek M. Theodorakis

10 12:00 Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs B. Pawlowski

13 18:30 Red Giselle P. Tchaikovsky, G. Bizet, A. Adam and A. Schnitke

16 18:30 Romeo and Juliet S. Prokofiev17 12:00 Cinderella S. Prokofiev24 18:00 Swan Lake P. Tchaikovsky29 18:30 Anna Karenina R. ShchedrinNovember14 18:00 Swan Lake P. Tchaikovsky17 18:30 Desdemona A. Šenderovas19 18:30 La Sylphide H. Løvenskjold21 18:00 The Nutkracker P. Tchaikovsky24 18:30 La Bayadère L. A. Minkus25 18:30 Romeo and Juliet S. Prokofiev27 18:30 Giselle A. Adam

OperaSeptember17 18:30 The Marriage of Figaro W. A. Mozart18 18:30 The Marriage of Figaro W. A. Mozart19 18:00 The Marriage of Figaro W. A. Mozart22 18:30 La Sylphide H. Løvenskjold23 18:30 La Traviata G. Verdi

25 18:30 Frank’Einstein – XXI Age A. Žigaitytė

26 12:00 A Potato Tale A. KučinskasOctober6 18:30 Carmen G. Bizet7 18:30 Carmen G. Bizet14 18:30 Rigoletto G. Verdi15 18:30 L‘Elisir d‘Amore G. Donizetti22 18:30 Madam Butterfly G. Puccini23 18:30 Madam Butterfly G. Puccini26 18:30 Madam Butterfly G. Puccini28 18:30 La Traviata G. VerdiNovember12 18:30 Othello G. Verdi13 18:30 Ohtello G. Verdi20 18:00 Die Walküre R. Wagner28 12:00 The Tiny Lingonberry J. Tamulionis30 12:00 The Tiny Lingonberry J. Tamulionis

MusicalsSeptember24 18:30 Veronika G. KuprevičiusOperettaOctober9 18:30 Wiener Blut J. StraussNovember18 18:30 Wiener Blut J. Strauss26 18:30 the Merry Widow F. LehárConcertsOctober30 19:00 New York PhilharmonicNovember2 19:00 Evgeny Kissin

Ballet & Opera

Performances take place at the Lithuanian National Opera & Ballet Theatre (see p.14). More info at www.opera.lt

GalleriesAcademy (Akademija) C-3, Pilies 44/2, tel. (+370) 5 261 20 94, www.vda.lt. The gallery of the Vilnius Art Academy host all manner of contemporary shows by artists from home and abroad and is always worth a look inside. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JActus Magnus C-3, Pilies 36-44, tel. (+370) 659 457 22, www.actusmagnus.com. The brainchild of two local women, this compact little gallery features two small spaces showcasing a range of contemporary work. Find it hidden away down a narrow alley. The entrance is on the right. QOpen 13:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JContemporary Arts Centre (Šiuolaikinio Meno Centras) C-4, Vokiečių 2, tel. (+370) 5 212 19 45, www.cac.lt. Vilnius’ very own monstrous carbuncle on the face of an old friend, this 1968 concrete masterpiece conceals the country’s leading temporary gallery for both Lithuanian and international contemporary art. Surplus to the 2,400 square metres of exhibition space, the Contemporary Arts Centre also organises conferences and lectures, features a superb reading room and hosts a rather good café. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. JUŠv. Jono Street Gallery C-3, Šv. Jono 11, tel. (+370) 5 212 41 54. Some good contemporary painting and other me-dia from a galaxy of artists from Lithuania and abroad. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JTaDas F-3, Kęstučio 51, tel. (+370) 685 555 25, www.gutauskas.lt. The weird and occasionally wonderful world of the Lithuanian artist Tadas Gutauskas, this gallery is given over entirely to his painting, sculpture and other media. Bordering on the naïve and childlike, Gutauskas’ work is colourful to say the least and all of it is for sale. Q By ap-pointment only.Užupio Meno Inkubatorius D-3, Užupio 2, tel. (+370) 611 226 75, www.umi.lt. A tumbledown house on the riverbank (below), brightly painted and with a few works in the garden, this is Užupis’ unofficial Ministry of Culture as well as a lively gallery space, workshop and the home of Užupio Koliažai, the only place in the city to buy official Užupis Republic memo-rabilia, souvenirs, local artwork, a copy of the Constitution and much more. Exhibitions include works from a wide range of contributors including established local artists, school chil-dren and the occasional American professor of mathematics. Follow the riverbank north from Užupio Kavinė.QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. J

Lithuanian Russian Drama Theatre (Lietuvos Rusų Dramos Teatras) H-4, J. Basanavičiaus 13, tel. (+370) 5 262 05 52, www.rusudrama.lt. The only professional theatre in the country staging works exclusively in the Russian language, this fine old building also boasts a half-decent café and also hosts other events including part of the annual Vilnius Jazz Festival. QOpen 11:45 - 19:30, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Closed until Sept.National Youth Theatre (Valstybinis Jaunimo Teatras) C-4, Arklių 5, tel. (+370) 5 261 61 26, www.jaunimoteatras.lt. Founded in 1966 the Na-tional Youth Theatre stages work of all kinds from the classics to experimental to innovative reworkings of original stories. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Closed until Oct. JOKT/Vilnius City Theatre (OKT/Vilniaus Miesto Teatras) B-4, Ašmenos 8, tel. (+370) 5 212 20 99, www.okt.lt. Dedicated to modern theatre and modern interpretations of the classics. See their website for when and where they’re performing. Q Closed until Sept. JVilnius Old Town Theatre (Vilniaus Senamiesčio Teatras) A-5, Naugarduko 20, tel. (+370) 5 213 40 64, www.senamiescioteatras.lt. Founded during the final days of the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1989 the theatre specialises in recreating the public-spirited theatre of the 16th and 17th centuries. With a varied repertoire, the company performs almost exclusively in public outdoor spaces.Vilnius Small State Theatre (Valstybinis Vilniaus Mažasis Teatras) A-1, Gedimino 22, tel. (+370) 5 249 98 69, www.vmt.lt. Only finding a permanent home in 2005, this interesting theatre company who stage a wide range of predominantly contemporary works are based inside a glori-ous building in the city centre. Worth a look around even if you’re not attending a performance. Q Open 11:00 - 18:30. Closed 13:00 - 18:30. Closed for lunch 15:00 - 15:30. J

Vartai B-3, Vilniaus 39 (Vilniaus Mokytojų Namai), tel. (+370) 5 212 29 49, www.galerijavartai.lt. Arguably the best and most influential contemporary gallery in the country. Find works in all media by the top Lithuanian artists working in their fields. Vartai also organises exhibitions by artists from abroad. Recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JZnad Wilii C-3, Išganytojo 2/4, tel. (+370) 5 212 30 20, http://znadwiliiwilno.lt. A Polish art gallery displaying and selling paintings, books and the Polish-language newspaper of the same name. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. JA

Opera & BalletLithuanian National Opera & Ballet Theatre (Li-etuvos Nacionalinis Operos ir Baleto Teatras) H-3, A. Vienuolio 1, tel. (+370) 615 510 00, www.opera.lt. A stunning construction opened in 1974 and offering the whole range of works. Worth a look inside even if you don’t plan on attending anything. Q Box office open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:30, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed until Sept. JA

PhotographyProspekto Galerija G-3, Gedimino 43, tel. (+370) 5 261 83 38, www.photography.lt. Owned and run by the Lithuanian Photographers’ Union, Prospekto Galerija is a hit and miss affair but really worth the effort just in case. Exhibitions range from the sublime to the awful, often let down partially by the artists themselves who submit badly presented work that’s often lit with no thought to the work. There’s also a small shop where you can buy books and postcards featuring the work of many famous and obscure Lithuanian art, news and documentary photographers past and present. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sat, Sun.Vilniaus Fotografijos Galerija C-4, Didžioji 19, tel. (+370) 5 261 17 02. Situated above a picture-framing shop that you need to enter in order to get to the gallery, this small and rather basic affair, also the property of the Lithuanian Pho-tographers’ Union, puts on a number of shows throughout the year, some of which are well worth attending. Find it tucked away in a courtyard. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J

TheatresArts Printing House (Menų Spaustuvė) D-2, Šiltadaržio 6, tel. (+370) 5 204 08 32, www.menuspaus-tuve.lt. Housed inside a former tsarist printing house this intriguing centre features two theatre halls, a place to collect and spread ideas and rehearsal rooms for various performers. Check the website for a full list of their activities. JDomino Theatre (Domino Teatras) G-4, Savanorių 7 (Forum Cinemas Vingis), tel. (+370) 5 263 95 70, www.dominoteatras.lt. The brainchild of a small collective of like-minded local thespians, this very Lithuanian affair puts on shows inside a cinema.Lėlė Puppet Theatre (Vilniaus Teatras Lėlė) C-4, Arklių 5, tel. (+370) 5 262 86 78, www.teatraslele.lt. This inspired puppet theatre for children of all ages has been charming audiences in Vilnius since the company was founded way back in 1958. Q Box office open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. JLithuanian National Drama Theatre (Lietuvos Nacionalinis Dramos Teatras) B-2, Gedimino 4, tel. (+370) 5 262 97 71, www.teatras.lt. Pretty much what it says it is, the Lithuanian National Drama Theatre promotes theatre from home and abroad and stages it in two venues inside the same building. Look for the three muses guarding the main entrance. Q Box office open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. J

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P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted

O Casino H Conference facilities

T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled

F Fitness centre L Guarded parking

R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly

K Restaurant J Old town location

D Sauna C Swimming pool

I Fireplace W Wifi

Symbol key

This guide uses the star system as defined by the Lithuanian Department of Tourism, in which stars are awarded for amenities offered, and don’t necessarily reflect the quality of those amenities or the standard of service provided.

Star spangled banter

Vilnius provides a wide selection of accommodation options in all parts of the city. Prices remain lower than in Western Europe, sometimes considerably lower, meaning staying right in the centre is always an option. Booking a room in advance is recommended, especially so during the summer.

Cream of the cropNarutis C-3, Pilies 24, tel. (+370) 5 212 28 94, fax (+370) 5 262 28 82, [email protected], www.narutis.com. Totally gorgeous in every conceivable way, room inte-riors include everything from original 16th-century frescoes and wooden beams to Jacuzzis in the suites. Decorated with the ultimate in style and panache, there’s no need to roll off a list of everything in the rooms because they’ve really got it all. Add to that a location to die for, impeccable service, a fine restaurant and a magical spa and, if you can afford it, you’d

be a nutter to stay anywhere else. Q50 rooms (9 singles €95 - 140, 23 doubles €105 - 170, 7 suites €186 - 900). PTJHAR6UILKDXCW hhhhh

Radisson Blu Astorija C-4, Didžioji 35/2, tel. (+370) 5 212 01 10, fax (+370) 5 212 17 62, [email protected], www.radissonblu.com/hotel-vilnius. The name, building and location say it all, as indeed does the list of the great and the good who choose to stay here when in town. A beautiful collection of rooms and suites are on offer, some with spectacular views of Old Town. Top notch accommodation with all the trimmings, plus business facili-ties, swimming pool, express laundry, a French restaurant and a bar selling some of the freshest local beer in the city. Q 119 rooms (75 singles/doubles €116 - 173, 24 suites €154 - 213, 4 apartments €400 - 750). PJHARUFK�DXCW hhhhh

Ramada Hotel & Suites Vilnius C-5, Subačiaus 2, tel. (+370) 5 255 33 55, fax (+370) 5 255 33 11, [email protected], www.ramadavilnius.lt. Delicious opulence meets high standards of modernity. As you’d expect from a five-star hotel, the rooms are nothing short of spectacular, featuring classic antique designs mixed together with the latest technol-ogy such as flat screen televisions, DVD players and voicemail. There’s also a wellness centre, conference facilities and even an umbrella in every room. Q55 rooms (9 singles €110, 39 doubles €125, 5 suites €190, 2 apartments €210 - 290). PTJHAR6UIFLKDXW hhhhh

Relais & Chateaux Stikliai C-3, Gaono 7, tel. (+370) 5 264 95 95, fax (+370) 5 212 38 70, [email protected], www.stikliaihotel.lt. Occupying a sumptuous building with Gothic and Baroque elements, the Stikliai is where millionaires have been taking themselves for well over a decade. Old fashioned in every sense of the term, the fully air-conditioned rooms come with such treats as satellite and cable television, internet, mini bars and Turkish baths in the best suites. Sauna, pool, conference facilities and an equally ostentatious restaurant can also be found here. It doesn’t come much better than this. Q43 rooms (12 singles €148 - 200, 16 doubles €184 - 200, 8 suites €304, 7 apartments €440 - 1100). PTJHAR6UIFLKDXC hhhhh

UpmarketAmberton Hotel (Klaipėda) B-2, L. Stuokos-Gucevičiaus 1, tel. (+370) 5 210 74 61, fax (+370) 5 210 74 60, [email protected], www.klaipedahotel.lt. It could be made of damp straw and the restaurant could serve nothing but cabbage and you’d still probably book a room once you saw the view. Not that it is made of damp straw of course, and of course restaurant’s pretty good too. Expect free internet in the rooms, minibars and all mode cons, good mannered staff and two of the best restaurants in the city next door in fact. An absolute winner for both facilities and location. Q 81 rooms (19 singles €70 - 105, 57 doubles €70 - 115, 4 suites €90 - 135). PJHARULKW hhhh

Artis Centrum Hotels B-2, Liejyklos 11/23, tel. (+370) 5 266 03 66, fax (+370) 5 266 03 77, [email protected], www.centrumhotels.com. Perfectly located between Old Town and Gedimino, this large white birthday cake-looking hotel has been looking after a better class of guest for years. Surplus to the marvellous views from the upper front rooms are air-conditioning throughout, Pay TV, internet access and for the nervous, peepholes in all the doors. Good for healthy-minded visitors, the hotel also manages to pack in a gym and swimming pool. Q108 rooms (12 singles 359Lt, 77 doubles 409Lt, 4 suites 595Lt, 5 junior suites 495Lt). PTJHARUFLKDXCW hhhh

Atrium C-3, Pilies 10, tel. (+370) 5 210 77 77, fax (+370) 5 210 77 70, [email protected], www.atrium.lt. One of the favourite choices of visiting big-wigs and other VIPs, Atrium blends together the antiquities of Old Town with the very best of hotel accommodation to a great effect. Complete with minibars, heated bathroom floors and every-thing else you’d expect when handing over this much money in return for a bed for the night, extras include conference facilities, sauna, a cracking little Argentinean restaurant and arguably the best location in Vilnius. Q29 rooms (3 singles 207Lt, 16 doubles 242Lt, 4 suites 276Lt, 4 apartments 328Lt, 1 royal apartment 397Lt). PJHAULKDW hhhh

Dvaras B-1, Tilto 3-1, tel. (+370) 5 210 73 70, fax (+370) 5 261 87 83, [email protected], www.dvaras.lt. Celebrating the former manor house status of the building it’s located in, Dvaras is a small hotel with grand ideas, noticeable in everything from the décor to the price. Just eight rooms, from singles to luxury suites, are on offer, all given an old world treatment and all coming with life’s little luxuries. There’s a couple of fancy restaurants as well, all of it packaged together a two-minute walk from the Cathedral. Q8 rooms (3 singles €70 - 75, 3 doubles €84 - 89, 2 suites €121 - 140). PJHARLKW hhhh

Europa Royale Vilnius C-5, Aušros Vartų 6, tel. (+370) 5 266 07 70, fax (+370) 5 261 20 00, [email protected], www.groupeuropa.com. The ever-growing Europa chain’s flagship Vilnius hotel continues to offer high standards of service in an admirable Old Town location that’s hard to beat. The choice of individual rooms and suites is impressive, with even the most basic featuring mini bars, free wireless in-ternet, air-conditioning and satellite television. Also find meet-ing rooms, international press and the fabulous Medininkai restaurant. One of the better places to stay in town if you can afford it. Q 39 rooms (singles/doubles €79 - 99, triples €109 - 139, business class rooms €94 - 114, apartments €150 - 229). PTJHAR6ULKW hhhh

Grotthuss B-4, Ligoninės 7, tel. (+370) 5 266 03 22, fax (+370) 5 266 03 23, [email protected], www.grotthusshotel.com. This self-proclaimed aristocratic boutique hotel in a quiet Old Town street contains 20 rooms and suites complete with Italian furniture, original art on the walls, wireless internet, minibars and satellite television. Favoured by well-heeled visitors who like the personal touch, the hotel also features an in-house gourmet restaurant and state of the art business facilities. Q20 rooms (5 singles 440Lt, 3 suites 790 - 860Lt, 12 superior doubles 550 - 620Lt). JHARLKXW hhhh

More hotels online vilnius.inyourpocket.com

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1�where to stay


Holiday Inn H-3, Šeimyniškių 1, tel. (+370) 5 210 30 00, fax (+370) 5 210 30 01, [email protected], www.holidayinnvilnius.lt. Hugely popular with visiting Americans who like assurance of something they’ve slept in before, this world classic’s Vilnius incarnation is located just north of the river close to the business district. Swish and decidedly modern, the rooms all have that typical Holiday Inn feel, plus there’s an excellent little bar at street level complete with complimentary press where it’s possible to spend an entire evening watching the world go by and drinking the night away on your company’s expense account. A taxi ride to Old Town is about 15Lt during the day. Q134 rooms (119 doubles €140 - 170, 1 apartment €280, 14 executive suites €190 - 220). PHARUFLKDXW hhhh

Mabre Residence D-3, Maironio 13, tel. (+370) 5 212 20 87/(+370) 5 212 21 95, fax (+370) 5 212 22 40, [email protected], www.mabre.lt. Found inside a fabulous former monastery, some of it dating back as far as the 17th century, this swanky hotel can be found on the border of Old Town and Užupis inside a lovely quiet courtyard. Geared towards all types of traveller with a healthy bank account, rooms veer from more than adequate singles to the wonderful (and surpris-ingly affordable) presidential suite. Surplus to the rooms are all manner of treats, from the recommended sauna and small pool to the in-house steak restaurant. Q40 rooms (3 singles 408Lt, 27 doubles 516 - 576Lt, 8 suites 696Lt, 2 apartments 936 - 992Lt). PJHAR6ULKDXCW hhhh

Novotel Vilnius B-1, Gedimino 16, tel. (+370) 5 266 62 00, fax (+370) 5 266 62 01, [email protected], www.novotel.com. The pointlessly controversial Novotel building (have you seen the revolting monuments in the square op-posite?) resides in a space once inhabited by an ugly patch of grass. We rest our case. A fine hotel indeed, and, if you get the right room, it also happens to be a fine hotel with a rather spectacular view. Find everything you’d expect from the French hotel chain at hand, plus a pleasant bar with outdoor seating on one of the city’s busiest streets during the summer. Q159 rooms (112 singles €67 - 162, 44 doubles €77 - 172, 3 suites €126 - 174). PTJHA6UFKDXW hhhh

Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva H-3, Konstitucijos 20, tel. (+370) 5 272 62 72, fax (+370) 5 272 62 70, [email protected], www.radissonblu.com/lietuvahotel-vilnius. Now trading under the Radisson banner, the city’s flagship 80s Soviet hotel received an enormous renovation several years ago and now boasts the best of two worlds. Located on the north bank of the Neris in the heart of the main business district, this 22-floor beauty is quality busi-ness class accommodation indeed. The rooms are bright and fresh, there’s a vast conference capacity space, the in-house restaurant is very good indeed and the bar on the top should be on everybody’s list of places to visit regardless of whether they’re staying in the building or not. Brilliant. Q 291 rooms from €69. POTHARUFLKDXW hhhh

Šarūnas I-3, Raitininkų 4, tel. (+370) 5 272 38 88, fax (+370) 5 272 43 55, [email protected], www.hotel-sarunas.lt. A good value business class hotel close to the centre of things and just north of the city’s emerging business district, complete with all of the necessary add-ons for today’s demanding traveller such as satellite television, minibar and air conditioning. Everything is spotlessly clean, and the numerous perks include good conference facilities, sauna, fitness centre and a super restaurant-bar good for personal dining or group hire. For the price, this is by far one of the best hotels in its category. WiFi is free. Q53 rooms (20 singles 250 - 270Lt, 27 doubles 270 - 290Lt, 4 suites 300 - 320Lt, 2 apartments 350 - 600Lt). PHAR6UFLKDW hhhh

Scandic Neringa A-1, Gedimino 23, tel. (+370) 5 268 19 10, fax (+370) 5 261 41 60, [email protected], www.scandichotels.com. A former Soviet bigwig favourite and now fully modernised in what the promotional material describes as Scandinavian, the very business-like rooms come in either standard or superior, of which both are fairly similar and which all provide ample comfort alongside the now almost compulsory free internet. Other highlights include a good range of international press in the lobby, meeting rooms, mini pool, welcome gifts for children and the gorgeous in-house Neringa restaurant complete with original 1959 Soviet frescoes. The Neringa has been threatening closure of late and is currently under stay of execution. An updated press release received in July stated that they plan to close at the end of September. Q60 rooms (22 singles €65 - 110, 34 doubles €73 - 124, 4 apartments €87 - 140). PTJHAR6UFLKDXCW hhhh

Shakespeare Boutique Hotel D-2, Bernardinų 8/8, tel. (+370) 5 266 58 85, fax (+370) 5 266 58 86, [email protected], www.shakespeare.lt. To book a room, or not to book a room, that is the question. Dickens, Joyce, Shakespeare of course and Tolstoy all have rooms named after them in this literary-themed hotel in one of the quiet-est and nicest streets in Old Town. Surplus to the excellent facilities in the rooms, guests all get a free present on arrival, plus there’s a rather good restaurant and a refreshingly peaceful and recommended bar to boot. Q31 rooms (8 singles 360Lt, 13 doubles 560 - 600Lt, 8 suites 640 - 680Lt, 2 apartments 720 - 760Lt). PJHAR6LKXW hhhh

Mid-rangeAAA Mano Liza B-4, Ligoninės 5, tel. (+370) 5 212 22 25, fax (+370) 5 212 25 08, [email protected], www.hotelinvilnius.lt. A small, family-run hotel in a quiet Old Town backstreet, this place has been garnering constantly good opinions seemingly forever. And for good reason. With a boutique hotel feel, local art on the walls and the now almost standard inclusion that’s free wireless internet are a personal touch lacking in many similar places and, for those who stumbled in at dawn, a much talked about all-day breakfast. Q8 rooms (1 single €47, 2 doubles €64, 4 suites €81, 1 apartment €93). JA6KW hhh

Alexa B/C-5, Pylimo 53/2, tel. (+370) 5 219 17 80, fax (+370) 5 219 17 83, [email protected], www.hotelalexa.eu. The quintessential Lithuanian mixed bag accommodation option, by all accounts the people who work here are a charming bunch and the rooms are all perfectly fine for the price, even if one of two of them are a very strange shape. Close to the bus and train stations in a slightly lugubrious part of town, pitfalls include wireless internet you have to pay for and a lack of places to eat in the immediate area. Q 33 rooms (22 singles /doubles 100 - 130Lt, 4 triples 170Lt, 3 suites 250Lt, 2 quads 220Lt). JA6ULKW hhh

Algirdas City Hotels G-5, Algirdo 24, tel. (+370) 5 232 66 50, fax (+370) 5 232 66 54, [email protected], www.algirdashotel.lt. Located inside a grand-looking build-ing close to the action and tantalisingly near to a clutch of superb Chinese restaurants and a 24-hour supermarket, the Algirdas boasts everything necessary for a comfortable stay. The well appointed rooms all come with en suite facilities, wireless internet and a choice of extras according to price including refrigerators and kettles in the deluxe rooms. Q 42 rooms (7 singles from €40, 33 doubles from €50, 2 suites from €90). PJHAULKXW hhh

Apia B-3, Šv. Ignoto 12, tel. (+370) 5 212 34 26, fax (+370) 5 212 36 18, [email protected], www.apia.lt. A small, family-run hotel in a wonderful location in the heart of Old Town close to several good bars and restaurants, all rooms include free internet access and satellite television plus there’s guarded parking and a friendly staff to help with whatever you need. Located inside a collection of fabulously restored 17th century buildings, news filtering back from previous guests suggests this one is definitely worth further investigation. Q12 rooms (7 doubles 169 - 217Lt, 2 triples 189 - 285Lt, 3 suites 237 - 333Lt). JAR6LKXW hhh

Centro Kubas - Angel C-3, Stiklių 3, tel. (+370) 5 266 08 60, fax (+370) 5 266 08 63, [email protected], www.hotel.centrokubas.lt. Angels, windmills, farming im-plements and an altogether rustic feel inside another favourite Vilnius hotel. Small enough for the personal touch to still shine through yet not too small to cram plenty of useful gadgets in the rooms. Hidden away down a wiggly Old Town street a few metres from the historic centre’s main thoroughfare, it may not be the cheapest option around but if you’re planning on visiting regularly they do offer a good discount scheme. Q 14 rooms (singles from 204Lt, doubles from 239Lt, triples from 307Lt, suites from 239Lt, apartments from 307Lt). PJHAR6ULKXW hhh

Centrum Uniquestay Hotel G-4, Vytenio 9/25, tel. (+370) 5 268 33 00, fax (+370) 5 213 27 60, [email protected], www.uniquestay.com. It’s a bit of a safari to reach reception but once you do finally manage to find it you’ll be glad you did. Refreshingly welcoming, the hotel, perched on top of the hill not too far from Old Town, is geared towards the business traveller but that doesn’t mean you have to wear a suit and tie to stay here. The rooms, which famously boast a PC in every one, feature classic business hotel blue carpets, en suite bathrooms, satellite television and minibars. A swimming pool is also available, plus there are further business facilities and the added bonus of a bowling alley across the street. Q100 rooms (34 singles 169 - 219Lt, 57 doubles 190 - 239Lt, 4 triples 339Lt, 5 suites 299Lt). HAR6ULKDXCW hhh

City Gate C-5, Bazilijonų 3, tel. (+370) 5 210 73 06, fax (+370) 5 210 73 07, [email protected], www.citygate.lt. Close to the Dawn Gate, just outside Old Town and looking not unlike part of the set from Gunfight at the O.K. Corral, this lovely little hotel affords a healthy space between itself and the chaos of Friday night whilst still being just across the road from the sights. The rooms are decent, all coming with free wireless, plus there’s three conference halls to contemplate for prospective visiting business travellers. Q29 rooms (2 singles 195 - 250Lt, 17 doubles 240 - 330Lt, 4 triples 300 - 450Lt, 6 suites 250 - 380Lt). PJHAUILKXW hhh

Domus Maria C-5, Aušros Vartų 12, tel. (+370) 5 264 48 80, fax (+370) 5 264 48 78, [email protected], www.domusmaria.lt. A good choice of singles, doubles, triples and quads inside a former 17th-century Carmelite monastery, all boasting televisions, internet connections and the choice of en suite facilities with either a bath or a shower. Parking and café are also available. An excellent choice in an equally sublime part of the city. Q39 rooms (8 singles 199Lt, 21 doubles 269Lt, 5 triples 329Lt, 2 quads 369Lt, 3 suites 289 - 349Lt). JHARUK hhh

Europa City Vilnius G-3, J. Jasinskio 14, tel. (+370) 5 251 44 77, fax (+370) 5 251 44 76, [email protected], www.europacity.lt. The perfect business class hotel, featuring comfortable rooms with all the conveniences from

satellite television and minibar to top security card keys and internet connections. Add-ons include a fitness centre to keep in trim whilst you’re working abroad, conference facilities and a white tablecloth restaurant. Q128 rooms (90 singles €52 - 59, 88 doubles €59 - 66, 10 suites €77 - 84, 4 apartments €99 - 106, 20 business class rooms €62 - 69). PHAR6UFLKDXW hhh

Hotel Tilto B-1/C-2, Tilto 8/3, tel. (+370) 5 210 00 21, fax (+370) 5 210 00 20, [email protected], www.hoteltilto.com. If it were any more fresh and homely it would be steaming like your mum’s buns. If it were any more tidy it would be an OCD ward. If it was any cheaper we’d move in and live there and if the staff were any more friendly we’d invite them to move in and live with us. This is a superbly refreshing hotel that is both centrally located both in the town and in the price spectrum. Rooms range from dinky singles to mini apartments with kitchenettes. All have flat screen televisions with satellite, air conditioning and free WiFi. Q34 rooms (6 singles €65 - 89, 15 doubles €75 - 105, 6 triples €90 - 144, 7 suites €85 - 150). PJA6UKDW hhh

Rinno A-4, Vingrių 25, tel. (+370) 5 262 28 28, fax (+370) 5 262 59 29, [email protected], www.rinno.lt. Just west of Old Town in a small, quiet street, Rinno is a good-looking three-star hotel in an admirable location for an affordable price. The rooms come in several categories from the good value standards through to luxury rooms complete with a large bath and minibar. All rooms feature free wire-less internet, although you should check first to make sure you get a room close to the wireless box to make sure the signal is strong enough. All in all a decent place to stay in an admirable location that won’t break the bank. Q17 rooms (14 singles €55 - 69, 14 doubles €63 - 79, 3 suites €77 - 97). PJHAR6LW hhh

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21where to stay


BudgetAmbassador B-1, Gedimino 12, tel. (+370) 5 261 54 50, fax (+370) 5 212 17 16, [email protected], www.ambassador.lt. A magnificent throwback to an earlier age with a few 21st-century concessions, the Ambassador provides adequate lodging for a fine price with the added advantage of one of the best locations in town. The rooms are a little old-fashioned, but if you’re in the mood for a bargain complete with pleasant staff, surprisingly good breakfast and a cavalcade of top sights on your doorstep, look no further. Q18 rooms (3 singles 100 - 240Lt, 11 doubles 115 - 280Lt, 2 triples 175 - 340Lt, 1 quad 235 - 400Lt, 1 suite 360Lt). JA6LX hh

Ecotel Vilnius H-2, Slucko 8, tel. (+370) 5 210 27 00, fax (+370) 5 210 27 07, [email protected], www.ecotel.lt. Tucked away in a pleasant, quiet part of town just east of the city’s emerging business district, Ecotel offers a choice of sleek and comfortable rooms, all coming with telephone and television, and including a range for non-smokers and those with allergy problems. With conference facilities and a whole host of other services (including ‘rooms for tall guests’) this might be the lofty option you were looking for. Q166 rooms (20 singles 199Lt, 140 doubles 229Lt, 6 triples 279Lt). HAR6ULXW hh

Rūdninkų Vartai B-5, Rūdninkų 15/46, tel. (+370) 5 261 39 16, fax (+370) 5 212 05 07, [email protected], wwww.rudninkuvartai.lt. Situated at one of the city’s former gates and just across the road from one of the few remaining sections of the old city wall, this reasonable budget option with plenty of exposed brickwork for that old world feeling offers both standard rooms and something a little bit more special. All rooms are en suite, plus there’s free wireless internet throughout and at the time of writing an in-house Belgian restaurant. A splendid location right on the edge of Old Town and within easy walking distance of the bus and train stations. Q 17 rooms (5 singles from €35, 11 doubles from €44, 1 suite from €87). JHAR�6ILKXW hh

Bed & BreakfastThe Lithuanian definition of Bed & Breakfast conforms to the US model. Visitors from the UK should note that the two are as different as can be. Whereas in the United Kingdom B&B is more or less a small, usually family-run hotel, in Lithuania it’s more of an apartment kind of thing. Indeed, most Lithuanian B&Bs are just that. Here it can also mean any kind of hosted accommodation, whether being a room in a family house to something similar in a building run by professional staff. So, not really Bed & Breakfast as is so famous in Blighty. Brits beware! If in doubt, make sure to ask plenty of questions before booking something you never really wanted.

Saulės Namai J-3, Saulės 15/23, tel. (+370) 5 210 61 12, [email protected], www.saules-namai.com. To be found not too far from the centre in Antakalnis, five minutes from the nearest trolleybus stop, this place can’t come recommended enough. Run by a nice family who’ve done the design and building work themselves, there are a number of interesting rooms with lots of stripped pine, exposed brickwork and quirky paintings. There’s a large kitchen where you can prepare your own food or have it made for you, a beautiful living room with a large fireplace and a quiet, leafy garden. Q 9 rooms (singles 70 - 120Lt, doubles 140 - 200Lt, triples 160 - 220Lt). 6ILXW

GuesthousesAmeda F-3, Latvių 27, tel. (+370) 601 704 40, [email protected], www.hotelameda.lt. Splendid value rooms and apartments in the lovely Žvėrynas district with excellent public transport connections to the city centre or a 10-minute walk for the more energetic, all options come with at least satel-lite television and internet connections, with the recommended apartments also featuring such homely inclusions as fireplaces and fully equipped kitchens. Q 6 rooms (singles €25, doubles €25-30, apartments €45-60). 6IW

Litinterp Guest House D-2, Bernardinų 7-2, tel. (+370) 5 212 38 50/(+370) 689 98 517, fax (+370) 5 212 35 59, [email protected], www.litinterp.lt. A range of rooms of which some can be fitted together for families and of which some have en suite bathrooms and others not, all tucked away inside a glori-ous 17th-century Old Town building, the people at Litinterp have been doing this for years and doing it very well indeed. Facilities are a little Spartan to keep the price down, but ask nicely and they’ll do anything for you. Although no internet is available, some rooms are rumoured to be close to an unsecured network. Q16 rooms (4 singles 80 - 100Lt, 9 doubles 140 - 160Lt, 2 triples 180 - 210Lt, 1 suite 180 - 240Lt). JA hh

Paupio Namai I-4, Paupio 31a, tel. (+370) 5 264 31 13, fax (+370) 5 264 31 12, [email protected], www.hotel.paupio.lt. A big friendly manor house full of big friendly staff tucked away just off the street. Here you can get just about any combination you require, from a shared dormitory with external bathroom to self-contained apartments with en-suite facilities. The rooms are basic, clean, and fairly good value, and if you want you can take advantage of the fully equipped downstairs kitchen to keep costs down even further. Prices include a large breakfast. Q29 rooms (3 singles 60 - 80Lt, 14 doubles 70 - 120Lt, 9 triples 80 - 120Lt, 3 mix dorms 30 - 40Lt, campers 20 - 30Lt). AR6ILW

HostelsA Hostel B-6, Šv. Stepono 15, tel. (+370) 5 215 02 70, [email protected], www.ahostel.lt. This well located hostel claims to provide accommodation along the lines of the Japanese pod system which on closer inspection appears to be nothing more than standard bunk beds. Extras include 15 minutes of free wireless internet, no curfew and hot showers around the clock. This is by far the best of their three addresses. Also at Sodų 8, Sodų 17. Q (34 - 140Lt).JALW

Filaretai J-4, Filaretų 17, tel. (+370) 5 215 46 27, fax (+370) 5 212 01 49, [email protected], www.filar-etaihostel.lt. A back-to-basics hostel in the quirky Užupis district, accommodation comes in the usual dormitory style or, as is increasingly popular in hostels these days, with twin rooms for more privacy. Bathroom and kitchen facilities are shared, there’s also laundry facilities, plus, unlike some, there’s no annoying cur-few. Q20 rooms (1 single 70Lt, 7 doubles 45 - 50Lt, 2 triples 35 - 40Lt, 10 dormitory rooms 31 - 34Lt). HARLW

Old Town Hostel C-5, Aušros Vartų 20-15, tel. (+370) 5 262 53 57, fax (+370) 5 268 59 67, [email protected], www.oldtownhostel.lt. A classic hostel in the old sense, meaning you’re just as likely to find hard up Polish pensioners staying here as you are middle class English university students pretending to be poor. Ignore the fact that it’s not actually in Old Town and don’t expect all-night parties with new-found Australian soul mates and you’ll be fine. Facilities are thin on the ground as one would expect, but for the price you’d be an idiot to complain. Surplus to the army-style barracks are a few smaller rooms with en suite bathrooms and cooking facilities. Q 24 beds (35Lt/person). PJARW

Vilnius Youth Tourist Centre (Vilniaus Jaunųjų Turistų Centras) I-4, Polocko 7, tel. (+370) 5 261 35 76, fax (+370) 5 262 77 42, [email protected], www.vjtc.lt. Set in a pastoral Užupis courtyard, the building is in a state of dilapidated charm characteristic of the area. Accommodation comes in a range of Spartan rooms that can sleep up to five, all with shared bathroom facili ties. Other temptations include a communal kitchen and the chance to have breakfast, which is served outside during the summer, and made for you if you’re feeling flush. Q 16 rooms (34Lt/night). R

Long term rentalBarbacan Apartments D-4, Bokšto 19/12, tel. (+370) 5 266 08 40, fax (+370) 5 266 08 41, [email protected], www.barbacan.lt. A range of extremely high quality two- and three-room apartments in a quiet location and a lovely old building in Old Town. Facilities include underground parking, satellite television, internet, fully equipped kitchens and everything else necessary for a luxurious stay. Apart-ments are available to rent for both long and shorts stays. Q 2-room apartments €49 - 59/night, 3-room apartments €59 - 69/night. Discounts available for longer stays. PT�JA6ULXW

Stiklių Dvaras (Stikliai Apartments) C-3, Dominikonų 13, tel. (+370) 5 264 95 95, fax (+370) 5 212 38 70, [email protected], www.stikliaiapartments.lt. Luxuriously furnished apartments inside a 16th- and 17th-century building available for both short- and long-term rental. Tastefully decorated and located in the same building as the Relais & Chateaux Stikliai hotel, apartments come fully equipped with lounge, kitchen, bathroom, one or two bedrooms plus satellite television and internet access. There’s underground parking too, plus guests/residents have access to the hotel’s fitness centre and swimming pool. Q 10 apartments (€1,800 - 3,500/month). PTJHAR�FLKDXC

Short term rentalAuksinis Trikampis C-3, Didžioji 8, tel. (+370) 655 043 09, [email protected], www.auksinistrikampis.lt. A large, full y equipped apar t-ment with two bedrooms right in the heart of the Old Town action. Spacious and close to all the major sights, ameni ties include ki tchen, cable television, wireless internet and parking facilities. See the website for more information. For those who like to know these things, Auksinis Trikampis translates as Golden Triangle. Q (90-290Lt/night). JW

Eugenijus Apartments H-4, Vilniaus 25-1, tel. (+370) 699 424 56, [email protected], www.vilniusapart-ments.lt. A choice of two decent, good value apartments in Old Town, located at street level for easy access and coming with everything required for a self-catering stay. Close to the main sights, the apartments are managed by a local husband and wife who run a small ceramics workshop and gallery in the city. Other services include car and bicycle rental, guided tours and translation services. Q 2 apartments (€30-40/night). JL

Stasys Apartments Tel. (+370) 699 326 72, [email protected], www.apartment-vilnius.com. A choice of several apar tments to sui t every taste and budget, centrally located, and featuring everything necessary for a pleasant, self-catering stay. Satellite television in every apartment. See the website for more information. Q 8 apartments (120 - 200Lt/night). RW

Vilnius Apartments C-3/4, Stiklių 6-1, tel. (+370) 600 128 22, [email protected], www.euapartments.lt. A wide range of one- and two-bedroom apartments for rent in Old Town for both short and long stays. Each apartment is very different in style and amenities, the latter including such useful attractions as free internet and washing machines. See the website for more information. Q 7 apartments (160-240Lt/night).

CampingVilnius City Camping Parodų 7, tel. (+370) 680 324 52, [email protected], www.camping.lt. Close to the centre in a secluded green area close to the Neris, find room for about 100 tents and camper vans. Facilities include electricity, communal bathrooms, washing machines, barbecue and even internet access. An excellent choice for budget travellers who want to get away from it all but who still want to be close to the action, trolleybuses Nº1, 3, 7 or 16 all stop nearby. Q Open until Sept 6. 16Lt/person plus tent (12Lt) or camper (40Lt).

Most hotels now thankfully come with English-speaking staff. If in doubt, be sure to check before you book.

I have a reservationAš esu užsisakęs kambarį More toilet paper pleaseNorėčiau dar tualetinio popieriaus

Sleep smarts

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P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted

E Live music S Take away

T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking W Wireless Internet access

X Smoking place B Outside seating

I Fireplace J Old town location

Prices listed in the Restaurants section of this guide refer to the average cost of a main course for one, excluding drinks.

Symbol keyWith a few amusing disasters and the occasional appall-ing exception, eating out in Vilnius is both excellent and relatively affordable for all. The city’s restaurants and cafés literally cater to taste buds of every persuasion, offering everything from vast plates of potato-based local specialities to a surprisingly wide and generally palatable concoction of dishes from the kitchens of such far away places as India and Brazil. Service continues to be the main stumbling block even in the most aristocratic of eateries, and is easily the subject from which the majority of visitors gain the most displeasure. Although the bulk of restaurants worth visiting can be found within the city cen-tre, the suburbs also offer a few treats, which we list when we feel that the plaudits is deserving. Tipping, if deserved, is up to the diner, with 10 per cent or a rounding up of the bill both being acceptable.

LithuanianThere are essentially two types of Lithuanian restaurant in Lithuania. The first and most obvious variety features pigtailed waitresses in national dress serving plates of potatoes and beetroot soup in an atmosphere reminiscent of an old barn. The second is less easy to pin down, and is perhaps best described as a restaurant or café serving predominantly but not exclusively Lithuanian favourites in an atmosphere you won’t find anywhere other than in Lithuania. Rather than insult the best intentions of the good restaurant owners of Vilnius and call the former of the two Folk restaurants, we choose to list both types of restaurant together.

Aula C-2, Pilies 11, tel. (+370) 5 268 71 73, www.aularestoranas.lt. A mixed Lithuanian and international menu of competent cooking brought to your table by staff

whose lack of expertise is usually more than made up for by their friendliness. The last serving of potato pancakes eaten here went down a treat, plus there’s the added advantage of a downstairs live music club. Summertime brings a small terrace and large courtyard to this classic Old Town favourite. QOpen 09:30 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 09:30 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. 30Lt. PTJAUBSW

Chillout A-3, Pylimo 8/2, tel. (+370) 684 742 99. A friendly, good value and entirely unpretentious establishment, the simple hot food on offer is recommended for those looking to eat well on a budget whilst the slightly late opening hours make it a possible place for a quiet evening drink or two over a glass of dark Raudonųjų Dobilų beer made with red clover un-less they’re showing a music concert on DVD. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. 9Lt. TJS

Čili Kaimas B-4, Vokiečių 8, tel. (+370) 5 231 25 36, www.cili.lt. Walt Disney meets The Waltons inside the country’s most popular folk restaurant chain. Resplendent accessories include small farmyard animals to keep the children entertained, agricultural implements on the walls and a surprisingly friendly and efficient bunch of waitresses scuttling about in traditional costumes. The menu of artery-clogging indigenous dishes is pretty good considering the rate at which it’s pumped out of the kitchen. An interesting point worth noting is that the last vegetable soup we had here had bits of chicken in it. Also at Gedimino 14, tel. (+370) 5 212 14 22. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. 18Lt. PTJABSW

Forto Dvaras C-2, Pilies 16, tel. (+370) 5 261 10 70, www.fortas.eu. An increasingly large national franchise of folk restaurants pandering to people in danger of becoming increasingly large themselves, Forto Dvaras offers quality traditional Lithuanian food in a folksy interior without going completely over the top. The food is authentic, immensely filling if you choose the right dish, and for the location excep-tionally good value for money, whilst the service is in general reasonably friendly and thoughtful. The summertime outdoor seating provides some of the best people-watching in the capital. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. 20Lt. PTJABSW

Graf Zeppelin C-4, Savičiaus 9, tel. (+370) 673 107 25, www.grafzeppelin.lt. One of the city’s more clever anoma-lies, bask in antiquity and fill yourself up with what they claim to be the largest cepelinai in the capital. The fusion theme also extends to the menu, which is made up classic German dishes of the type the aforementioned Lithuanian national dish is based on. A great place for a full blown, gut-busting meal and an equally enjoyable atmosphere if you catch them when they’re busy. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. 17Lt. PJAS

Keisti Ženklai B-3, Trakų 13, tel. (+370) 5 261 07 79. Strange Signs has been busily keeping a low profile in Old Town seemingly forever, a fact that deserves some recogni-tion. Although dining here could never really be classed as a memorable experience, the experience is always worth the time, effort and money. The menu lurches from taste bud to taste bud, offering a mind-boggling choice of food from local specialties to average pizza. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 12Lt. PJAS

Lokys C-4, Stiklių 8, tel. (+370) 5 262 90 46, www.lokys.lt. One of Vilnius’ best known restaurants, Lokys (The Bear) opened its doors to rouble-paying customers way back in 1972 in the Gothic cellars of an Old Town building dating back to the late 15th century and has been serving so-called traditional hunters’ dishes amidst a slightly tongue-in-cheek backdrop ever since. The limited menu focuses on unusual dishes including quail, venison and even beaver, with a couple of vegetarian options to keep everybody happy. Live music happens from time to time, plus you can rent the entire place for the full blown medieval experience. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 40Lt. JABS

Marceliukės Klėtis I-2, Tuskulėnų 35, tel. (+370) 5 272 50 87. Fairytale waitresses deliver meals the size of your head from a menu of traditional Lithuanian dishes featuring more calories than there are stars in the universe. Located somewhat strangely in the middle of a large concrete housing estate, this barnlike restaurant is strewn with such archaic eye candy as wooden bicycles hung from the ceiling and a pink and green threshing machine by the front door. Large tables make this a firm favourite for families and groups. Gentlemen confronted with the strange machine in the toilet should know that it really is for weeing in. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. 15Lt. TAIEBS

Rojaus Arka D-5, M. Daukšos 3, tel. (+370) 689 858 14, www.rojausarka.lt. Situated close to the Dawn Gate, a visit to Rojaus Arka is like walking into somebody’s home. The décor has a nice Art Nouveau feel, boosted with the work of local artists on the walls whilst the menu of local dishes is both admirable and affordable. Suitable for both romantic dining as well as eating together in large groups, this unique restaurant really is quite like no other in the city. Note that they don’t take credit cards, so top up your wallet before you visit.QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. 35Lt. PJESW

Žemaičiai B-4, Vokiečių 24, tel. (+370) 5 261 65 73, www.zemaiciai.lt. A brilliant collection of medieval cellars designed for a slightly upmarket folk-themed dining experience, ignore the international dishes and plunge into the traditional food. Those eating in groups should consider one of the big mixed platters, which are good value and fun to share. Also worth trying is the fresh in-house beer, made in the old-fashioned unpasteurised fashion and a rare treat indeed. Also check out their fast weekday lunch if you’re in a hurry. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. 30Lt. JABS

ArgentineanEl Gaucho Sano C-3, Pilies 10, tel. (+370) 5 210 77 73, www.atrium.lt. Despite having something of a reputation as a steak restaurant, El Gaucho Sano is in actual fact far more capable than just churning out juicy slabs of beef. We confess that our last visit here saw us putting away a 300g steak, but that’s probably because they cook some of the best steaks in town. The extensive Argentinean menu includes much more, including rare treats like Argentinean chorizo and some interesting desserts not found anywhere else in the country. Expensive? Well, this is a hotel restaurant after all. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. 60Lt. PJASW

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Buffet expressPronto H-2, Konstitucijos 7a (Europa), tel. (+370) 5 248 71 00. In complete contrast to its modern surroundings, Pronto is all waterwheels and wooden fittings. Some of the best buf-fet food in the city can be found here including a limited salad bar plus hot metal trays full of ready-to-gobble food including potato pancakes, chicken, hefty meatballs and a choice of rice, potatoes, vegetables etc. Find it with the rest of Europa’s main restaurants up on the top floor. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. 15Lt. AS

Central AsianČingischanas (Genghis Khan) A-3, J. Basanavičiaus 8/1, tel. (+370) 619 128 16, www.restoranas.net. Chefs from Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan have all contributed their own dishes to Lithuania’s only truly authentic Central Asian restaurant. Bursting with aromatic and spicy dishes you’ve probably never eaten before, the décor may be a little on the kitsch side but then that’s all part of the experience. Recommended for novelty value if not the food itself. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. 25Lt. PJUEBS

ChineseDidžioji Kinija H-3, Konstitucijos 12, tel. (+370) 5 263 63 63, www.kinuvirtuve.lt. One of a small chain of Chinese restaurants in town, all of them worthy of further culinary investigation, Didžioji Kinija’s location may not be exactly central but is certainly calling for a visit. As with the vast majority of Chinese food in Vilnius, this is the real thing, not the adulterated rubbish usually served up in places like the UK. The menu itself is massive, not unlike the actual dishes of which there’s a good range to suit all, including vegetarians. The current business lunch served here, which can be eaten in-house or taken away, is ridiculously good value indeed. Recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 25Lt. PTABSW

Pekinas H-4, Algirdo 28/15, tel. (+370) 5 215 16 20, www.kinuvirtuve.lt. The closest Chinese restaurant to the Chinese embassy is a small affair with plenty of obligatory lanterns, friendly staff and a television and CD player vying for attention in authentic Chinese fashion. The slightly pricey menu is extensive and generally excellent, with plate warmers on hand to keep the large portions piping hot as they’re slowly devoured. Amidst the more mainstream offerings of beef, pork, chicken and vegetable dishes are a few exotic treats including snails and even ostrich. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 35Lt. PAUS

Fine diningDOMM C-4, Didžioji 31 (Town Hall), tel. (+370) 686 777 07, www.domm.lt. Open for evening-only dining and overseen by the illustrious Spanish chef Javier Lopez, this completely over-the-top restaurant is bloody marvelous if you’ve got a fortune to spend and appreciate theatrical food. With a menu of well sourced, cooked and presented dishes made using everything from exotic fish to suckling pig, and featuring a bottle of champagne on the menu for 2,500Lt, you can well imagine the kind of person who dines here. Friday and Saturday evenings from 23:00 until 03:00 also see the place transformed into a lounge bar. Magnificent. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Sun. 60Lt. PJAUW

AsianEat East H-3, Konstitucijos 20 (Radisson Blu Hotel Li-etuva), tel. (+370) 640 344 43, www.eateast.lt. A small selection of surprisingly good noodle and rice dishes served in a cardboard box plus sushi and a few non-alcoholic drinks. The spicy items are just right, although it looks like they use chilli sauce rather than real chilli as you’d almost certainly get in an authentic version of this place. Service can be a bit slow, but if you’re after good value, filling food, you could do an awful lot worse. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. 13Lt. ASW

Wall Street H-3, Lvovo 25, tel. (+370) 5 219 59 16, www.wallst.lt. Very good Mongolian barbecue in two sizes plus a range of set Asian meals in an industrial-chic ambience. Four televisions play CNN, there’s board games to play and the loud music (the televisions are mute) is upbeat. To top it all, the large bar changes colour and they sell that rarity in Lithuania, Pepsi. An excellent choice if you’re in the area. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 23:00. 25Lt. PASW

BrazilianGrill Brazil G/F-2, Saltoniškių 9 (Panorama), tel. (+370) 5 219 59 77, www.grillbrazil.lt. Predominantly but not exclusively a churrasco and espeto corrido restaurant, help yourself to the buffet and take a choice of meat off the skewers carried around by the waiters. You can eat as much as you like here, which is a mixed blessing because there’s always something superb coming off a skewer meaning you might just burst. Don’t let the location put you off. This is simply one of the best places to eat in town. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. 24Lt. PAW

La Provence B-4, Vokiečių 22, tel. (+370) 5 262 02 57, www.laprovence.lt. A long established Vilnius favourite specialising in Mediterranean cooking at its best, encounter tables full of well-heeled locals and foreigners tucking into a mouth-watering range of dishes including fish, grilled meat and a couple of vegetarian options. Prepared and delivered with the height of care, attention and even a little theatre, despite its reputation as a rather expensive restaurant, not only is it worth the money here there are also a number of dishes that won’t break the bank. Having said that, they do stock a couple of bottles of champagne for 1,000Lt a pop. Magnificent. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. 60Lt. PTJABS

Naručio Restoranas C-2/3, Pilies 24 (Narutis hotel), tel. (+370) 5 212 28 94, www.narutis.com. Visitors to this fine restaurant will be rewarded with impeccable service and a range of dishes made with care and imagination. The chicken in sweet champagne sauce is cooked to perfection using well-sourced, fresh ingredients, leaving you with a desire to sample some quality cheese before moving on to dessert. Further top marks go to a decent wine menu and background music that adds to experience. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. 50Lt. PTJALBSW

Stikliai C-3, Gaono 7 (Stikliai Hotel), tel. (+370) 5 264 95 80, www.stikliaihotel.lt. A small but magnificent menu of wonderful dishes featuring such classic favourites as black truffles and a proper sorbet, all served from soup to nuts by impeccable staff in truly sumptuous surroundings. Backpack-ers and stag parties might like to find somewhere else to eat. People with style who know a good thing when they see it and who like to impress might like to book a table. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 23:30. Sat 12:00 - 23:30. Closed Mon, Sun. 90Lt.PTJAUEBW

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FrenchBalzac C-4, Savičiaus 7, tel. (+370) 614 892 23, www.balzac.lt. From the fun tables in the little back room to the slightly punky waitress to the fact that the place was heaving on a Monday night to the amusing music policy, everything during our last outing here was just right. The small menu also scored very well, with the red pepper soup and the steak being particularly exceptional. Recommended for all types of dining. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00, Fri 11:30 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. 25Lt. PTJABS

Brasserie de Verres en Vers C-4, Didžioji 35/2 (Radis-son Blu Astorija Hotel), tel. (+370) 5 236 08 40, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-vilnius. As one would expect from the Radisson brand, their in-house Vilnius restaurant is pure top class. Tastefully decorated in cool browns, eat in a choice of two halls, one with a little privacy and the other with large windows looking out onto the street outside. The small but well-chosen menu features a cavalcade of classics with a predominantly French flavour. Recommended is the slow roasted rabbit with sauté potatoes. The service is friendly and attentive, and the drinks menu, including a couple of good champagnes, is equally impressive. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. 50Lt. PJAUBW

FunBlusynė C-4, Savičiaus 5, tel. (+370) 5 212 20 12, www.blusyne.lt. A long, thin affair that’s both a restaurant and bar, the Flea Pit is just itching to be investigated. The food covers a wealth of tastes from Thai to Italian, the beer and wine menu puts most Old Town places to shame and the décor is refreshingly different. The last outing here saw the demolition of a plate of Thai food that can’t come recommended highly enough. Quirky without being over the

top, there’s also a splendid little garden out the back that’s a delight in the summer and fun to huddle in and smoke oneself to death when it’s freezing outside. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 20Lt. PJABSW

Bomond Tabero B-1, Tilto 16/6, tel. (+370) 685 466 98. With its gold shiny curtains and glass fountain, eating in this large and magnificently kitsch restaurant is like having dinner on a 1960s cruise liner. The menu, which includes good pancakes and a passable steak, isn’t too bad, although the real reason to come here is when the cabaret act are doing their thing on the little stage for the benefit of a hardcore bunch of middle-aged ladies and gentlemen dancing on the dance floor below. Priceless, and one of the few places in town you can still dance in pairs the old-fashioned way. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. 22Lt. PAUES

Paukščių Takas (Milky Way) Sausio 13-osios 10 (Television Tower), tel. (+370) 5 252 53 33. Revolving precariously 160m above the ground in the middle of a large Soviet-era housing estate, the Milky Way’s chef is unlikely to be headhunted soon, although coming here to eat is hardly the main reason to visit. Disappointing for many who didn’t do their maths beforehand and who were left stupefied by the fact that Old Town’s simply too far away to be seen without the aid of the Hubble telescope, if lifts and Soviet architects and terrorist threats don’t scare you you’ll simply love it up here. Note than in order to keep the riff-raff out there’s a steep charge to enter which is worth every penny, and that although it stays open until 22:00 they stop letting people in at 21:00. Trolleybus Nº16 from the train station passes close by. Alternatively, a carefully chosen taxi should cost around 20Lt. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Box office open 10:00 - 21:00. 28Lt. ASW

Užupio Kavinė D-3, Užupio 2, tel. (+370) 5 212 21 38, www.uzupiokavine.lt. A Vilnius institution often full of people who probably should be in institutions themselves, the breaka-way Republic of Užupis’ daft political headquarters also doubles as one of Vilnius’ must-see places to stop and have something to eat and drink. The interior has a mild Republic of Užupis theme, helped along by a clientele of colourful locals, whilst if you’re lucky enough to visit on a mild or even a sunny day, the riv-erside wooden terrace remains one of the top places to sit in the capital. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. 20Lt. JAIBSW

GeorgianAdria A-2, Islandijos 4, tel. (+370) 640 777 60. Although they offer a full international menu, our advice is head straight for the Georgian food in this upmarket Georgian sensation. Recommended are the karcho, khachapuri (find it on the appetisers menu but be warned even Mr. Creosote would find it hard to finish the final fourth slice) and an exceptional lump of hot, sweet baclava. The menu also includes a handful of Georgian red and white wines. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. 25Lt. TJAEBSW

Kaukazo Belaisvė A-2, Pamėnkalnio 24, tel. (+370) 5 261 06 55. Life-size dummies in fluffy hats, friendly service, earthenware crockery and a menu including garlic-laden karcho/charčo and knockout mutton sausages with sweet pickled tomatoes among a range of other classic Georgian dishes. Trivia buffs will be delighted to learn the restaurant is named after the classic 60s Soviet film Kidnapping, Cau-casian Style, staring Aleksandr Demyanenko (1937-1999), whose likeness can be found in a mural painted on one of its walls. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 20Lt. PAUS

Sulčius B-2, Totorių 15, tel. (+370) 603 531 02. Instantly recognisable if you’ve ever been to Brighton or Berlin, this handsome-looking little juice bar that bears more than a passing resemblance to a 1970s hippy’s kitchen also sells a wealth of other things from biodegradable washing powder to samosas. The juice in question, which could do with being a little colder, is concocted by flustered girls with nose rings to a soundtrack courtesy of Bob Marley. Limited seating is available if you don’t want to ingest your vitamins on the hoof. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 16:00. PJSW

Juice bars

Itališka Kepykla C-3, Dominikonų 16, tel. (+370) 5 261 08 14. The main supermarket chains in Lithuania have come a long way over the last few years when it comes to bread, but it’s still fairly impossible to find the perfect loaf. Hats off then to this oasis in the dessert, the brainchild of a local lady so enamoured by the kind of bread and pastries made by the Italians she introduced them here. Whereas the supermarkets get the recipes right but skimp on the basic materials (the wrong flour, cheap fat etc.), Itališka Kepykla uses only the best ingre-dients to make bread to knock your socks off. Now with a branch in Užupis, there’s no excuse for not insisting on the best. Magnificent and most highly recommended. QOpen 08:00 - 19:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. J

Bakeries

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GermanBunte Gans C-5/6, Aušros Vartų 11, tel. (+370) 5 212 83 12, www.buntegans.lt. German chef Thom oversees one of the best kitchens in the capital, a splendid hive of activity churning out imaginative, good value and predominantly Ger-man food including schnitzels, curry wurst, bangers and mash, fresh fish and bread and the house special dish of goose with perfect fried potatoes and a host of other vegetables. There’s live music during the weekends, an extensive range of drinks including the superb Veltins beer from western Germany and the welcome addition of outdoor seating during the summer. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 13:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. 30Lt. TJAEBSW

Ice-creamSoprano C-2, Pilies 3, tel. (+370) 5 212 60 42, www.soprano.lt. Our last outing here involved entertaining a couple of under-sevens who demolished so much cake and ice cream they had to be hosed down before leaving. The treats on offer really are exceptionally good at any time of year. The ice-cream incidentally is made locally to a traditional Italian recipe. QO-pen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00.PJABS

IndianSue’s Indian Raja B-2, Odminių 3, tel. (+370) 5 266 18 88, www.sues-lt.com. Want to know what the best restaurant in Vilnius is? Well, it’s Sue’s. No kidding, Wing Commander Ra-jinder Chaudhary knows how to put on a good show and realises that the only way to make exemplary Indian food is to hand-pick your spices and your chefs in India. Many of the authentic dishes here are named after the diners who eat them, adding another nice touch to, did we say it already..? The best restaurant in Vilnius. In the words of one satisfied diner, The results are outstanding, with the butter chicken worthy of a fan club of its own. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. 30Lt. PJABSW

InternationalBistro 18 C-3, Stiklių 18, tel. (+370) 677 720 91, www.bistro18.lt. With three minimalist dining areas and a separate wine shop in the heart of Old Town, this Irish-tinted spectacle features friendly staff on hand to serve dishes from a mixed menu of international favourites with the occasional twist. Recommended are the mixed green salad and their homemade meatballs. The wine list comes with its own lit-tle range of edible extras. QOpen 11:30 - 22:30, Sat 17:00 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 22:30. 30Lt. PTJAUBS

Cozy C-3, Dominikonų 10, tel. (+370) 5 261 11 37, www.cozy.lt. The sort of place where the staff turn up on bicycles and smother each other with kisses, Cozy’s been packing in the cream of the city’s B-list media set and party people since 2004. Decorated with minimalist flair and featur-ing arty black and white photography on the walls, the menu generally impresses with an affordable list of mildly preten-tious delicacies that are at least in general very good to eat.

Downstairs from the end of September sees the welcome re-opening of their DJ bar. See the website for more information. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Fri 09:00 - 05:00, Sat 10:00 - 05:00, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. 25Lt. PJABSW

Balti Drambliai B-3, Vilniaus 41, tel. (+370) 5 262 08 75. A magnificent time warp, Balti Drambliai (White El-ephants) confirms every vegetarian stereotype known to humankind. Frequented primarily by Vilnius’ dreadlocked community and awash with the sounds of the Orient, find a labyrinth of vaulted enclaves and, if you’re lucky, a wait-ress. Whatever one’s opinion of the substances people choose to put in their cigarettes, for hardcore vegetarians this is arguably the safest bet in the metropolis. Live music on the summer terrace is replaced by a host of DJs of varying abilities indoors during the colder part of the year. Also keep an eye out for their legendary parties. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. 15Lt. PJAEBW

Baraka C-3, Šv. Ignoto 12, tel. (+370) 5 212 34 26. Closed at the time of going to press and due to open again on August 10, the previous incarnation of this tidy Old Town vegetarian restaurant saw regulation ethnic music, an extensive wine list and very good value food from a smallish menu. Just what the doctor ordered, be warned that it has a reputation as a hugely popular lunch spot. If you’re in a hurry, think twice about eating here at that time of day. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00. Open from Aug 25. 12Lt. JASW

Vegetarian

Čili Pica A-1, Gedimino 23, tel. (+370) 5 261 90 71, www.cili.lt. The bible-proportioned menu includes a frightening array of decent pizzas as well as a small yet well-chosen collection of pasta and meat dishes to boot. Those who are generally offended by the possibility of smothering one’s meal in tomato ketchup really should try it. It’s actually not that bad. To top it all (so to speak), the service is usually very good indeed. Also at Didžioji 5, tel. (+370) 231 24 62. QOpen 07:30 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 06:00. 15Lt. PTJABSW

Pomodoro A-2, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 5 269 00 22, www.pomodoro.lt. For the price, the pizza and pasta are up there with the best, whilst the steak continues to amaze and impress. Service is attentive, salads lower their standard during the winter like they do anywhere in the north, and the early morning pan-cakes continue to be a fine way to start the day. Also at P. Lukšio 32, Goštauto 40c, Ozo 14. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. 15Lt. PTJAUBSW

Užupio Picerija D-3, Paupio 3, tel. (+370) 5 215 36 66. This tip-top pizza joint is either bustling and busy or dead as a door nail. Whatever state it’s found in, the pizza they serve is decent enough if not exactly gourmet. Eschew the other meals and stick to the house food and you’ll be just fine. Service is of course amusing, and the outdoor seating during the warmer part of the year is exceedingly pleasant. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. 15Lt. JAUBSW

Pizza

Not satisfied with the three exceptional places in town they already possess, the owners of DOMM, La Provence and Žemaičiai continue to expand their empire as the guide goes to press. Due to open at the end of August, ZANZiBAR at (C-3) Pilies 23a promises an African interior, lounge music and affordable food and wine.

Coming soon

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Esse G-3, Gedimino 50/2, tel. (+370) 5 210 25 11, www.esse.lt. On one of the city’s most prestigious streets, Esse specialises in quality international cuisine with a focus on the kitchens of Italy and Lithuania. The menu is impres-sive, featuring everything from mussels to veal and duck plus the option of a good value business lunch from Monday to Friday. There’s also over 100 wines on offer, all of it in a classy setting with views of the street outside or in more intimate surroundings in a quieter and more exclusive dining area. Also at Saltoniškių 34a. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. 30Lt. PJAEBSW

Jalta F-3, Vykinto 17a, tel. (+370) 699 779 25. More than worth popping over the river for, Jalta’s status as one of Vilnius’ most original restaurants is now firmly in the bag. A beguiling mess of junk shop kitsch and designer sophistica-tion, the menu of wholefood recipes is worthy if not exactly mouth-watering whilst during the summer the secluded leafy garden is a real winner. Socially aware, the restaurant sup-ports the efforts of local, small-scale farmers and is a popular meeting place for the city’s creative, minor league politicos. DJs also do their bit for the community here from time to time. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. 13Lt. ABW

Kalvarijų 1 H-3, Kalvarijų 1, tel. (+370) 671 786 76. Located inside a bizarre-looking, late-19th-century neo-Gothic ersatz castle just over the river, this peculiar little treat serves a wide range of international dishes including lots of salads, plenty of meat and fish dishes and a few vegetarian choices thrown in for good measure. Best of all, summertime hails the opening of their lovely little courtyard, the scene of the occasional burst of live music from time to time. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. 18Lt. AEBSW

Lakštingala E-4, M. K. Čiurlionio 102 (Vingio Parkas), tel. (+370) 687 742 37, www.lakstingala.lt. Found in the middle of Vingio Parkas, catch it before it gets too cold to sit outside on the large and often lively terrace. The food may not be heading for an award ceremony but is better than edible, and the staff genuinely make an effort to be friendly and helpful. Right next to the park’s funfair and the places to rent bicycles and peddle cars, it’s especially recommended for adults with children. There’s even a small hotel upstairs for those who can’t bear to leave the place. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. 20Lt. BS

La Pergola B-4, Ligoninės 7, tel. (+370) 5 266 03 22. White tablecloth gourmet dining in sumptuous surroundings inside the Grotthuss hotel, or, during the warmer months, on their lovely ter-race just off a quiet street in the heart of Old Town. The menu of international dishes includes plenty of options to keep everybody happy, and is accompanied by an equally admirable wine list. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. 60Lt. PTJAULBW

Medininkai C-5, Aušros Vartų 8, tel. (+370) 600 864 91, www.medininkai.lt. One of Vilnius’ oldest and most well respected restaurants serves up sumptuous international food in a white tablecloth atmosphere in a choice of several halls as well as outside in a lovely 16th-century courtyard during the summer. The menu features all manner of good things, from fresh seafood to pasta to some fine grilled meat, all overseen by an award-winning chef who maintains high standards through-out. Part of the classy Europa Royale hotel, diners can also take advantage of the adjoining hotel bar before or after their meal. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. 35Lt. JABSW

Neringa H-4, Gedimino 23, tel. (+370) 5 261 40 58, www.restoranasneringa.lt. A former nomenklatura fa-vourite and still pulling in the cream of the city’s slightly older sophisticates, this positively mammoth restaurant features two dining halls separated by a bar with a fountain in it. Of particular interest are the original 1959 murals, protected by the State along with much of the rest of the interior. The international food on offer is good, honest fare, although not likely to win any awards. The desserts are particularly fine, making this marvellous institution a good place to visit regardless of whether you’re after a full meal or not. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. 25Lt. PTJAUEBSW

Prie Katedros B-2, Gedimino 5, tel. (+370) 605 775 55, www.priekatedros.lt. Located inside a brick cellar close to the Cathedral, find three great beers, namely a light, a dark and a light flavoured with honey, all brewed on the premises and some of it making it into the varied menu of good international food also on offer. The cellar location makes it a good place to visit any time of year, with a small outdoor terrace making a pleasant appearance during the summer.

On the subject of the beer, those who don’t know which to choose can sample all three in tiny glasses before making their choice. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Thu 10:00 - 01:00, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 22Lt. PJAEBSW

Riverside H-3, Konstitucijos 20 (Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva), tel. (+370) 5 231 48 21, www.radissonblu.com/lietuvahotel-vilnius. Consistently great food and serv-ice courtesy of this exemplary in-house hotel restaurant, the well-chosen international menu may not be the cheapest in the city but is worth the trip over the river to sample from it. As well as serving one of the best buffet breakfasts in town, there’s also an excellent buffet lunch and plenty of dishes from the menu until late. The outdoor summer terrace, opposite the increasingly popular area by the river, is a fine place to visit, even if only for a drink. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00. 40Lt. PTAULS

Markus ir Ko C-3, M. Antokolskio 11, tel. (+370) 5 262 31 85. Serving various bits of cow to those who can afford it for as long as many care to remember, Markus ir Ko is an institution that fails to go away. Once famed for cooking the best steak in the capital, this slightly casual yet definitely upscale restaurant has long since been eclipsed by others but still knocks out by almost everybody’s account a damn fine steak. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 45Lt. TJAEBSW

Steak House Hazienda D-3, Maironio 13 (Mabre Hotel), tel. (+370) 5 212 13 89, www.mabre.lt. Friendly albeit not exactly polished service, gorgeous brick-arch ceilings, a menu featuring everything from couscous to ostrich and classic hotel restaurant prices. The steaks that give the place its name are almost always superb, and the presentation and cooking of everything is spot on, however the current bad news is flavour, which is all over the place. The last meal eaten here featured a salad with no dressing, two bizarre pots of goo with the appetisers and a steak sauce that tasted suspiciously like it came out of a packet. If they can pull together these minor hiccups, then for a hotel restau-rant at least, the place would certainly be worth a visit. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 60Lt. PTJAEBW

Steak

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Sonnets D-2, Bernardinų 8/8 (Shakespeare hotel), tel. (+370) 5 266 58 85, www.shakespeare.lt. The Shake-speare’s in-house nosh-pot excels where others barely get off the ground. Sumptuous and elegant, everything here is polished to near perfection. A diverse menu tempts diners with all manner of delicacies from classic Lithuanian dishes to ostrich with chestnuts. All overseen by friendly and efficient staff, the price tag may be a little heavy but is worth every penny. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00. 30Lt. PTJALEBSW

Tores I-4, Užupio 40, tel. (+370) 655 326 26, www.tores.lt. They’ve got lovely distressed furniture inside, with a jumble of chairs and tables ready for the demolishing of a small choice of Lithuanian and international dishes including that rarity cauliflower cheese, all washed down with a range of beers and wines from around the world. What really sets this place apart though is the terrace, one of, if not the best in the city with a delightful view of the city spread out below. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 22Lt. TA6EBS

Veranda F-2, Kęstučio 39, tel. (+370) 5 273 01 07. Two rosy-cheeked waitresses literally sprint up and down the superb beer garden, taking orders and delivering plates of food from a limited menu of mostly meat-based dishes and a slightly overpriced vegetable bake (that needs something like rice to go with it if you’re not looking for a snack). The šaltibarščiai was a bit warm, although it did come with a small portion of crispy roasted potatoes. If you’ve got the time and you don’t mind the fact that they might be understaffed when you visit, go ahead and eat. Alternatively, there’s draught Guinness, a refrigerator full of posh beer and shelves full of wine to choose from. Car and bicycle parking is around the back. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 01:00, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. 15Lt. AEBSW

Café de Paris C-3, Didžioji 1, tel. (+370) 5 261 10 21, www.cafedeparis.lt. Part of the French Cultural Centre, Café de Paris functions as one of Vilnius’ main hubs of artistic life, a little like what used to happen in the French capital at the beginning of the 20th century only more often than not without the accompanying talent. Long and thin, with a small section to sit outside when the weather’s good, the celebrated crêpes help relieve the possibility of a trip to an expensive local restaurant whilst the limited range of beer, wine and spirits is now boosted with the inevitable cocktail menu. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. JAEBSW

Coffee Inn A-2, Vilniaus 17, tel. (+370) 655 777 63. One of the hippest addresses in town, find two floors of tables occupied by brightly coloured students taking advantage of the free wireless internet and updating their Facebook pages on their iPhones. The coffee, served Starbucks style, is excellent, as are the accompanying cakes, sandwiches, wraps, muffins, juices etc. Recommended for vegetarians are the superb grilled vegetable sandwiches. Also at Trakų 7, Pilies 3, Gedimino 9. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Thu 07:00 - 23:00, Fri 07:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. PJBSW

Double Coffee A-1, Gedimino 13, tel. (+370) 656 719 72, www.doublecoffee.lt. A Starbucks copycat with catalogue interiors, fast wireless internet and an urbane crowd who like to keep the keys to their jeep on public display. The coffee gets top marks each time, though don’t let that stop you drinking through a list that includes excellent iced teas and smoothies. Also at Vokiečių 3, Gedimino 5, Gedimino 26, Konstitucijos 7a (Europa), Ozo 25 (Akropolis). QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Fri 09:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. PJABSW

Prie Angelo D-3, Užupio 9/2, tel. (+370) 5 215 37 90. This recommended little spot offers the full Užupis café experience from the experimental decoration to a passing trade of local characters. Worthwhile for express liquid refreshment or something not too fancy from the menu, as the name suggests the location is next to the marvellous and quirky angel statue. Other sights of note are the collection of translated versions of the Užupis Constitution on the wall on the other side of Paupio just to the left. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. PJAUBSW

Cafés Zoe’s Bar & Grill B-2, Odminių 3, tel. (+370) 5 212 33 31, www.zoesbargrill.com. Although by no means extravagant, you get what you pay for, which here is quality food prepared in an open kitchen and served by waiting staff genuinely happy to see you. The décor has an upmarket-diner feel to it, plus there are a couple of excellent beers to compli-ment the food. Consistently great, which is a very rare thing indeed in this city. Recommended. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Mon 11:30 - 23:00, Thu, Fri 11:30 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 25Lt. PTJAUBS

ItalianDa Antonio I B-2, Vilniaus 23, tel. (+370) 5 262 01 09, www.antonio.lt. It’s amazing how often this place comes up in conversations about overrated restaurants, amazing because as anyone who doesn’t live entirely on frozen pizza and Mars Bars knows, Da Antonio remains one of the best all-round places to eat in the capital. Most importantly, the people in the kitchen

know a thing or two about food and as a consequence don’t do their shopping in Norfa. Marvellous cuisine from soup to nuts, Da Antonio claim that their pizza ingredients all come from Italy. Their Amberton Hotel address (see below) starts Sunday brunch from September. Also at L. Stuokos-Gucevičiaus 1 (Amberton Hotel).QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 55Lt. PTJABS

Fiorentino C-3, Universiteto 4, tel. (+370) 5 212 09 25, www.fiorentino.lt. A good choice of Tuscan dishes with accompanying Tuscan wine, all overseen by an Italian from the region with the kind of passion sadly almost never seen in the city. Inside it’s all plain white interiors and specials chalked on the blackboard, whilst the warmer months add a magnificent 16th-century Renaissance courtyard into the bargain. Tuscany is of course considered the birthplace of the Renaissance, so it’s rather fitting that the restaurant should be here. Splendid work. Brilliant stuff. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00, Fri 11:30 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 30Lt. JABW

California Tapas & Wine C-5, Subačiaus 2, tel. (+370) 652 655 51. A bit of everything here, from a first-floor café complete with open kitchen to a laby-rinth of rooms downstairs for long evenings of eating and drinking. Service is friendly, the décor has some extraordinary touches downstairs and the food menu, which among other things aims to introduce tapas to the Lithuanians, features a decent list of favourites from Basque fish soup to grilled meat. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00. 12Lt. JAUB

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more than a sandwich shop. Worse still, the alternative image it attempts to portray is let down by a number of factors, not least by the serious lack of vegetarian options on the menu.QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. JSW

SoupSriubos Namai H-5, Algirdo 31, tel. (+370) 683 152 56. Conjuring comparisons with 1930s Britain, Vilnius is at the time of writing in a bit of a soup restaurant-opening mood. This latest attempt, far from providing bland, vitamin-rich comfort at rock-bottom prices produces bland, vitamin-rich comfort at a mildly alarming cost. Add to this the addition of thin slices of stale bread and what you’ve got is a sad attempt in a street usually better known for its good food. Also at Gedimino 9. QOpen 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 8Lt. PTBS

UkrainianБорщ! G-4, Algirdo 5 - 2, tel. (+370) 5 260 33 44, www.borsch.lt. Considering the ethnic history of the city it always comes as a surprise to discover there’s an appalling lack of restaurants catering to the tastes of the region. Thankfully, every so often along comes something to restore faith in even the most cynical of diners, Борщ! (Borsch!) being the latest example. Specialising in classic Ukrainian food and drink, this slightly folksy-styled eatery offers a pleasantly upmarket experience with the added bonus of friendly staff and a bill at the end of the meal that won’t leave you on bread and water for the rest of the month. For the uninitiated, Algirdo boasts a clutch of highly commendable places to eat and drink, and should be explored at the next possible opportunity. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. 16Lt. ABSW

St. Valentino B-3, Vilniaus 47/18, tel. (+370) 5 231 41 98. After years of service this place continues to be the favoured haunt of the city’s better off citizens, who continue to take advantage of its combined use as both a café where the espressos never fail to impress as well as a recommended Italian restaurant. Part of the design has been geared towards those who like television with their food whilst the rest is designed to be a little more intimate. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00, Mon 07:30 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. 25Lt. PTJAUBSW

JapaneseVilnius is currently going sushi mad, with even some super-markets now offering the stuff. Tokyo it ain’t, although much Japanese food in the capital is surprisingly good.

Go! Sushi A-2, Jogailos 8, tel. (+370) 637 355 53, www.gosushi.lt. If it’s not a wine bar then it’s probably a su-shi bar opening in Vilnius these days, Go! Sushi being among the latest to hitch a ride on the coattails of derivative local convention. It wouldn’t be that bad if what was opening was any good, but almost without exception, the capital’s culinary copycats fail to impress every time. Featuring Lithuanians in the kitchen, don’t expect anything more than lacklustre sushi made with way too much rice and little joy in the way of accompaniment. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. 13Lt. JASW

Labuki C-4, Didžioji 28, tel. (+370) 5 261 11 88/(+370) 698 367 36. With suave surroundings and a choice of rooms including a main area with large windows overlooking the Town Hall, Labuki offers a wealth of dishes to please all tastes and budgets. The good-looking sushi sets are well priced and flavoured, the tempura is terrific and the solitary noodle dish

with beef is absolutely out of this world. The Korean chef also makes a mean soup and the classic Oriental desserts are very good indeed. There are fresh flowers on the tables, the service is friendly and there’s also a good value business lunch menu. People who prefer to eat with a knife and fork are strongly advised to ask for them when ordering their food. Also at Ozo 18 (Ozas), tel. (+370) 5 240 55 55. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. 30Lt. PJASW

Osaka A-2, Vilniaus 19, tel. (+370) 5 261 71 76, www.osaka.lt. Recommended quality Japanese classics including nigiri sushi, hoso maki, sashimi, pungent spicy soups, noodles and more inside a wee little restaurant between Old Town and Gedimino. Ideal for meals out, Osaka also deliver and provide good value takeaway lunch sets. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 30Lt. PJABS

Sushi Express G-3, Jasinskio 16a, tel. (+370) 699 693 43, www.sushiexpress.lt. Not exactly central and catering predominantly to the suits who earn their crusts in this small business district, Sushi Express can be found tacked on the corner of a modern building and churning out the same good food as their original and highly recommended outlet in Kaunas. One of the better sushi joints in the city, summertime also sees a limited selection of outdoor seating for those who prefer to eat to a cacophony of passing vehicles. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. 16Lt. SBW

Sushi House B-3, Vilniaus 45, tel. (+370) 682 282 22, www.sushihouse.lt. Average sushi best eaten elsewhere such as in the park nearby. Be warned, the wasabi and ginger portions are tiny. Ask for double to avoid disappointment. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. 12.50Lt. JASW

KoreanSura H-1, Ozo 18 (Ozas), tel. (+370) 5 277 70 00, www.sura.lt. A brilliantly thrown-together design of bare concrete, flashing lights and a few more conservative ele-ments surround diners whilst they feast on a menu made up of mostly decent sushi plus a few classic Korean dishes. The pulkogi was a bit lacking in vegetables but the beef was good and the sauce was exceptional. They even serve it with short grain rice for that final authentic touch.QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. 22Lt. PAS

MexicanTres Mexicanos C-2, Tilto 2, tel. (+370) 674 186 00, www.tresmexicanos.lt. The food is cheap like Mexican food should be, authentic, filling and recommended, whilst the service is brisk and friendly. A small bright yellow interior adds to the charm, and overall it’s a winner. Run by three Mexicans who give the place its name, excellent reports about the place keep coming in. Those used to a lack of spice in Eastern European versions of spicy food should be warned that they’re not afraid of sending your mouth into raptures of glorious pain here. If it says it’s hot, it’s hot. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. 18Lt. JABS

SandwichesLunch Lab B-3, Trakų 16, tel. (+370) 5 240 44 27, www.lunchlab.lt. The word lab invokes visions of tousle-haired eccentrics in white coats building time machines, a fact that renders the naming of Lunch Lab almost comical. Far from be-ing a bustling realm of experimentation, this tiny place is little

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The Lithuanian capital’s disparate nightlife options run the breadth of all things imaginable for any taste and budget, from quiet cafés full of serious-looking men huddled over a game of chess to steamy underground caverns dedicated to the time-honoured pursuit of getting ordinar-ily level-headed businessmen so horribly drunk that they willingly empty the contents of their bank account inside a stripper’s knickers. Now that the city’s cocktail-drinking crowd have been given their own places to imbibe and to be seen imbibing it in, Vilnius’ nightlife entrepreneurs are turning their attention to the subject of wine, namely with the opening of a trendy wine bar on what feels like every street corner. The best are of course listed here. Clubs remain almost exclusively mainstream, whilst the city’s gay and lesbian scene is almost as far underground as a Soviet nuclear test site. With the exception of perhaps Pyongyang, no capital city in the world is without its more sinister side, and that includes Vilnius. Violence and alco-hol occasionally combust into fisticuffs, and with wages to make a sweatshop worker stay in bed it’s no surprise to learn that wallets, mobile phones and even the occasional camera disappear from ineptly attended tables, pockets and bags. Finally, face control is ever on the rise. If yours doesn’t fit, forget it. Have fun!

BarsAmatininkų Užeiga C-4, Didžioji 19/2, tel. (+370) 5 261 79 68. An Old Town institution popular with locals and tourists alike, the service here has always been pretty bad even at the best of times although that’s never stopped the punters from coming. The nondescript interior fills during the colder part of the year with a motley collection of inebriated locals whilst the outdoor terrace continues to be one of the most popular drinking spots in the city. If you can handle the wait, the food is edible and, best of all, famously keeps arriving on your table until sunrise. QOpen 10:00 - 05:00, Fri 10:00 - 07:00, Sat 09:00 - 07:00, Sun 09:00 - 05:00. JABW

Bambalynė C-3, Stiklių 7, tel. (+370) 5 240 56 70. Yet another bar reaping the benefits of EU investment in Lithuanian microbreweries, Vilnius now claims bars for drinking ‘traditional’ ale in for students, poets, misfits and, now, the new rich. As well as being a bar, this smallish Old Town cellar also doubles as a shop. When we dropped by to check its pulse it was in dire need of defibrillation. Why certain people are taking their underwear off and waving it over their heads about this average derivative watering hole is anyone’s guess. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. JAW

Banzai B-3, Šv. Ignoto 14, tel. (+370) 5 212 12 15. Featuring Oriental décor with a faded, almost colonial feel to it, Banzai functions as a popular venue for working weekday lunch as well as a bar worth investigating during the evenings. Service can be friendly, and on a good night the slightly edgy atmosphere has been known to outshine much of the local competition. Worthy of further investigation.QOpen 12:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. JASW

Bermudai H-3, Upės 6 (Baltasis Tiltas), tel. (+370) 655 702 62, www.bermudaiclub.lt. Bermudai specialises in beer from a range of small breweries across the country which they sell for peanuts. They also serve a handful of other beers including the magnificent Duvel. There’s live music on Fridays and Saturdays and a young, studenty crowd. Find it through a small door and down a flight of stairs in the bowels of the bridge. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Thu 12:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. EBSW

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Brandy Lounge A-4, Trakų 2, tel. (+370) 5 212 32 51. Without wishing to come across as too pedantic it would be reasonable to expect when entering a brandy lounge to be greeted by two things, namely a lounge and some brandy. Ok, they sell brandy, but then so do most places and the choice to date here is hardly what you’d call extensive. And the lounge? Well, they’ve got things to sit on, which at a stretch could be described as lounge-like. But let’s not get pernickety. It’s actually quite a nice little place in a super location, which when we dropped by for a drink late on a Monday evening was fairly busy and rather good fun. Brandy is of course drunk with much aplomb during the winter, and it’s the winter that these people are aiming for. Watch this space. QOpen 08:30 - 04:00, Fri 08:30 - 06:00, Sat 10:00 - 06:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. JAW

Fortas H-4, Algirdo 17, tel. (+370) 5 212 20 00, www.fortas.eu. Despite a slightly crappy beer collection, Fortas can do no wrong. Perched up on top of the hill above Old Town, this always busy spot plays host to everyone from shady-look-ing Russian-speakers without any hair to immaculately turned out Japanese tourists. Perfect for an outdoor summertime drink despite the appalling view and equally rewarding indoors, it would be unfair to not mention the food, which is consistently marvellous. Top banana. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PTAEBSW

Globe D-2, Bernardinų 8/8 (Shakespeare Boutique Hotel), tel. (+370) 5 266 58 85. An unexpected gem, Globe has been providing good alcohol and the chance of something decent to eat courtesy of friendly staff for years. Somewhat resembling a slightly stuffy gentlemen’s club, the complete absence of excitement here makes it the ideal spot for a relaxed business drink or any other kind of discreet encounter for that matter. QOpen 06:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 24:00. PTJAEBSW

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Gorky C-3, Pilies 34, tel. (+370) 652 180 35. Gorky opened in the summer of 2010 to a fanfare of kazoos and whoopee cushions. Housed inside the building that once held the legendary albeit rather naff Gero Viskio Baras, Gorky hasn’t quite decided what it is yet beyond a hopeful magnet for well-educated revolutionaries on large disposable salaries. At ground floor level is an average café also serving a few international dishes whilst the spiral staircase leads to a basement good for sitting out nuclear wars in and, so we’re told, soon to be a cutting-edge space for the arts. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00. PJAEBSW

Gringo A-3, Klaipėdos 3, tel. (+370) 650 969 25. The summer of 2010 saw the opening of this brave venture designed along the lines of an East Berlin bar complete with wacky pictures on the walls and free reading material on every table. Aimed squarely at Vilnius’ gregarious drinkers, the barmaid’s levity is lost on most clients and to date the bar remains neither particularly good fun or busy. The Leffe Blonde is a nice touch and the Guinness on tap is better than many around town. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00. JAW

Klinika A-1, Gedimino 27 (Fluxus Ministerija), tel. (+370) 615 873 23. A jumble-sale bar in an alternative arts centre complete with plastic glasses of bargain-price beer, dogs, bicycles and the possibility of a better tomorrow. The summer outside seating is almost as depressing as it is inside. Thankfully, many of the people who drink here aren’t. Roll on winter. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. JEBW

(M)isterija B-2/3, Totorių 18, tel. (+370) 5 212 50 51, www.misterija.lt. The good people at (M)isterija have put some thought into their concept, and the dividends have been good. Popular with a regular crowd of friendly hedonists, the drinks menu is fairly impressive and the food is more than edible. Extras at press time include board games, a Tuesday night pub quiz, themed weekend parties and a policy that encourages people to dance on the bar if they feel so inclined. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00, Fri 11:00 - 06:00, Sat 17:00 - 06:00, Sun 17:00 - 04:00. PJASW

Plieno Paukštis H-4, K. Kalinausko 11b, tel. (+370) 5 231 21 81. Discreet during the winter, this is the perfect place for a fireside tryst, whilst the warmer parts of the year trumpet the opening of a magnificent secluded garden. Full of staff from the American embassy during the week, the place is given back to the locals at the weekend and is well worth the treck up the hill. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. AIB

Pogo A-2, Vilniaus 12, tel. (+370) 604 195 67, www.pogobaras.lt. You can say what you like about rock fans but you can’t deny the fact that the ones who opened Pogo should be hugged and generally smothered in affection. Risking their necks transforming an empty Chinese restaurant into a bar with a live music venue at a time when the economy was falling to pieces, our heroes have been rewarded with a loyal clientele of lads in leather and a damn fine place to drink if this is your sort of thing. The beer is stupidly cheap and the food is surprisingly good. Recommended. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri 18:00 - 06:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. PJAEBW

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Prie Parlamento G-3, Gedimino 46, tel. (+370) 5 249 66 68, www.prieparlamento.lt. Vilnius veterans will no doubt remember the name Prie Parlamento, known during the glory days when the city still had an expat community simply as PP. After several unimpressive years as some kind of Czech restaurant, Prie Parlamento is back, this time in the guise of a combined wine and beer bar. Pretty much unchanged, the two-floor bar (beer at ground level, wine upstairs) was never much to talk about but it did at least have the added bonus of possessing a buzz. The new PP appears to be just another local establishment, featuring a limited menu of beer and wine plus a few dishes almost certainly best left in the saucepans if the complimentary beer snacks are anything to go by. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PJABSW

SkyBar H-3, Konstitucijos 20 (Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva, 22nd floor), tel. (+370) 5 231 48 23, www.sky-bar.lt. If you can’t find a place to sit in a hotel bar on a Tuesday evening there’s obviously a very good reason for visiting. In the case of the must-visit, 22nd-floor SkyBar, it’s the view. What the word breathtaking was invented for, this sleek cocktail sensation decorated in a series of cool brown tones provides an extraordinary panorama of both Old Town and the sleeping districts to the west. Piped music is provided by a local DJ who plays live during the weekend. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:30. PAULXW

ŠMC C-4, Vokiečių 2, tel. (+370) 5 261 70 97. Although it’s a bit cramped and frequently morose indoors during the colder part of the year the arrival of the city’s clement weather brings with it a concrete terrace that can get extremely lively during the evenings. An interesting option for a drink, the possibility of meeting some of the city’s more imaginative inhabitants and the chance to play chess if you so desire. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PJABSW

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Hats off to the merry innkeepers of Vilnius, who’ve simul-taneously realised the potential of the city centre’s empty spaces and stuffed great big bars in several of them. This may seem somewhat passé to many a reader but for the locals it’s literally a breath of fresh air. Even better, most, if not all by the time this sentence is finished, come with a clutch of DJs to help swing things along. The following list is far from complete, but does at least represent the best of the bunch.

Boom Boom Opus 3 B-3, Vilniaus 41/9, tel. (+370) 677 773 35. Playing hard to get in a courtyard behind Balti Drambliai (entrance to the right), no lessons appear to have been learnt from their first summer. Although some of the music can be good, the booze is varied and interesting and the people are often very nice to look at, the bar continues to be run on a shoestring and staffed by people who act as if they’ve never worked in a bar before. Luckily there are two other summer bars very close. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. JAB

Chaplin Terasa B-2, Totorių 13, tel. (+370) 5 279 10 47. Probably the largest drinking space in the capital, give the bouncer a grin before fighting your way through an array of thick black curtains to be rewarded with a relatively colossal collection of outdoor tables, bufuddled bar staff and a couple of stages. One of the only places to be seen in Vilnius this summer, there’s DJs and live music only spoilt by the manager constantly running up and turning the volume down, portable lavatories and a meagre choice of drinks that have to be paid for in cash. A valiant attempt that certainly outweighs its humdrum interior space, nights here can be memorable. QOpen 14:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. JBS

Franki Terasa B-3, Šv. Ignoto 5, tel. (+370) 604 326 77. Representing the wine bar of the same name is Franki Terasa, the capital’s latest addition to a burgeoning outdoor bar scene. Sat splendidly between the delightfully pink former St. Catherine’s Church and a small park, the terrace opens out to the west, providing plenty of late afternoon and early evening sunlight. The main tipple here is wine, a fact that promises a more sophisticated crowd than its rivals around the city centre. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 06:00, Sun 11:00 - 03:00. JBS

Vasaros Terasa B-3, Vilniaus 39, tel. (+370) 620 856 89. Inside the large Mokytojų Namai courtyard, Vasaros Terasa (Summer Terrace) functions as all things but is most comfortable in its role as a bar. A great loca-tion for a drink any time of day, the people who come here tend to be young and about as alternative as it gets in Vilnius. Service is consistently dreadful, but once you’ve resigned yourself to the fact that there’s nothing you can do about it, it’s definitely one of the top summer spots in the city. The courtyard also plays host to a regular supply to music acts and DJs and well as the occasional work of art. Q Open 11:00-02:00, Fri 11:00-03:30, Sat 12:00-03:30, Sun 12:00-02:00 (until the end of Sept). JEBXSW

Summer bars

More bars online vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Pacha G-3, Gynėjų 14, tel. (+370) 5 241 30 21, www.pachavilnius.lt. The two-cherry Pacha chain of Ibiza clones is represented in Vilnius with this 1,200-capacity, eight-bar sensa-tion, decorated in the style of a bank robber’s Mediterranean villa and, depending on the word on the street, is either overflowing or somewhat sadly deflated. If your idea of a night out is clubbing, hedonist style as perfected by the good people of the Spanish islands, Pacha is the place to come. QOpen 23:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Entrance 25-50Lt. PABX

ClubsDue to the universal law stating that it’s impossible to be in all places at all times, the club reviews in this guide are written to provide a general overview of what’s to be expected if you visit them. With the exception of Franki Terasa, the summer bars listed ion the left all have a slight club feel to them.

Brodvėjus B-4, Mėsinių 4, tel. (+370) 652 577 90, www.brodvejus.lt. Celebrated for the slightly creepy fact that this is arguably the top spot in town for visiting foreigners of a ques-tionable age to leer at teenage girls, downstairs is primarily for dancing, spilling drinks and getting stuck in conversations with local bores, whilst the quieter upstairs bar is always worth a go, especially if you want to sit down. Still hugely popular, live acts include everything from DJs who’d find it hard to get a gig at a wedding to the occasional decent band. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00, Thu 19:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 05:00, Mon, Sun 19:00 - 02:00. Entrance 5-20Lt. PJAEW

Pabo Latino A-4, Trakų 3/2, tel. (+370) 5 262 10 45, www.pabolatino.lt. Vilnius’ number one Latin venue panders to a better class of clientele with its lush furnishings, exotic cocktails and a welcome door policy that ensures the local riff-raff stay firmly on the cold side of the entrance. Part cocktail lounge and part club, regular events include a good mix of DJs and live Latin music from some surprisingly good bands. Still a big hit among both the local and international communities, expect to see a few celebrities and millionaires enjoying themselves amidst some of the best-looking people in the city. QOpen 20:00 - 05:00, Thu 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Entrance 15-30Lt. PJAEB

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Salento DiscoPub C-4, Didžioji 28, tel. (+370) 676 820 15, www.salentodiscopub.com. Nights of foam in which the ladies get all wet and lathery, cheap offers on cocktails, deck-chairs, large television screens and a predominantly young crowd are the things to expect inside the city’s most recent club offering at the time of going to press. The brainchild of Ital-ian Piero, the idea is to bring an Italian and Spanish pub-disco feel to the Lithuanian capital. Each night promises a different theme, with music focusing on pop and old favourites. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. Entrance free - 20Lt. PJAE

Satta B-2, Vilniaus, www.satta.lt. Whereas even the most obscure backwaters such as Ljubljana or even Skopje can claim scores of places for dope-smoking ragamuffins to dream their little dreams, Vilnius can come up with just the one regular place. Opened by a Portuguese expat and the survivors of Lithuania’s original warehouse party scene, Satta features an in-your-face extravaganza of pseudo-revolutionary adventures including dubious graffiti, sleepwalking bar staff and a smoking room that would promote any half-thinking police constable in the blink of an eye. The fact that it’s still here after so long confirms all previous suspicions that far from being the hotbed of insurgency it likes to think it is, Satta is little more than a diversionary playground for the next gen-eration of well-educated lawyers and housewives. Q Opening hours erratic. Check the website for events. JE

Stopkė D-3, Užupio 2a, tel. (+370) 677 876 33. Art gallery by day, live music club by night, this quintessential, tumbledown Užupis space provides access and atmosphere to anyone with a slightly alternative take on life. Friendly and accommodating, Stopkė’s embraced the very best of DiY culture and literally turned it into an art form. Facebook followers are encouraged to find them online to see what all the fuss is about. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 17:00 - 02:30. Closed Mon, Sun. Entrance free. JEB

Woo B-2, Vilniaus 22, tel. (+370) 5 212 77 40, www.woo.lt. An industrial style basement club aimed at a primarily young, student crowd who consider themselves alternative to varying degrees of success. The evenings here are manifold, and include everything from live jazz to DJs pumping out a plethora of noise from techno to funk. The recommended kitchen churns out a fine range of sandwiches, burgers and Asian dishes. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Thu 11:00 - 04:00, Fri 11:00 - 06:00, Sat 12:00 - 06:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. Entrance 10-30Lt. PJBKW

CocktailsLight Bar Lounge B-5, Rūdninkų 14, tel. (+370) 5 212 13 49. One primarily but not exclusively for the boys, Light Bar Lounge not only mix cocktails they also mix semi-naked girls into the equation. Brimming with pretty young things in various states of undress and decorated in an equally eye-popping manner, prepare to empty your wallet in exchange for one of the most thrillingly bizarre evenings available in the city. QOpen 19:00 - 04:00. Admission free. PJA

WineIn Vino C-5, Aušros Vartų 7, tel. (+370) 5 212 12 10, www.invino.lt. If you’re reading this before autumn descends on the Baltics you’d do well to cross In Vino’s palm with gold. Overlooking the unavoidable pretentious trappings that go with every wine bar from Tallinn to Timbuktu, this one’s got a major thing going for it, namely a cracking little terrace out the back. Nothing could be finer than mingling with the cream of the city’s C-list celebs whilst necking a large glass of red, al-though sink too many and you may find yourself up against the

bar’s Achilles’ heel, a serious lack in toilet facilities. Gentlemen may like to know the outdoor space stretches a long way back and is quite secluded in its further reaches. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00. PJAUBSW

La Bohème B-3, Šv. Ignoto 4/3, tel. (+370) 5 212 10 87. They still can’t cook pasta but they do at last have a space to drink outside, making Old Town’s favourite upscale boozer better than ever. The grandiose medieval interior is perfect for group celebrations (although you should definitely think twice before ordering the pasta), and the wine list is both thought-ful and extensive. All in all a most suitable venue for everyone from passing lads on the pull to a coach-load of grandmothers. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. JABS

Saint Germain D-3, Literatų 9/32, tel. (+370) 5 262 12 10, www.vynine.lt. Decorated inside to imitate French shambles chic and further reinforced with plenty of good outdoor seating during the summer, Saint Germain may be a French restaurant in the minds of some, but really it’s more of a wine bar. Often full of good-looking middle-aged locals and a smattering of tourists, the atmosphere is certainly one of the best in town, and the wine list equally admirable. If you do also choose to eat here, the food, which features not just French dishes, is affordable and generally fairly good. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. JABSW

Tappo D’oro B-2, L. Stuokos-Gucevičiaus 7, tel. (+370) 686 168 66, www.tempolibero.lt. Hidden away between the Cathedral and the President’s Palace, this little gem adds yet another string to the maestro’s bow also known as contempo-rary Vilnius. Hitching a ride on the coat tails of the city’s current obsession with wine bars and gourmet food, Tappo D’oro is part wine bar and part delicatessen. As well as a chilled cabinet full of speciality meats, cheese and olives, find a tastefully decorated drinking area and summer terrace complete with a list of Italian wines longer than the Bible. Fun and very busy at the weekends. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. JABS

MicrobreweriesBūsi Trečias B-2, Totorių 18, tel. (+370) 5 231 26 98, www.busitrecias.lt. Meaning something along the lines of You’ll be the third, Būsi Trečias functions as one of the capital’s only microbreweries (avoid the cherry- and almond-flavoured brews if you value the taste of beer at all) as well as a bet-ter than average place to dine on gut-busting local dishes. Downstairs is a genuinely good bar, whilst the large upper level has the feel of a demented German beer hall complete with sozzled groups of locals singing patriotic songs and falling off the wooden benches. Definitely worth marking down as an inclusion on any raucous pub crawl. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. PJABW

Šnekutis B-5, Šv. Stepono 8, tel. (+370) 650 470 58. Not a microbrewery as such, Šnekutis sneaks into this sec-tion on account of hoarding traditional, microbrewery-brewed beers from all corners of the country. Some of this is live, meaning it only lasts a few days, not unlike the hangover that goes with the superb 12% Stačias from Panevėžys. A couple of large ones of these and you might find yourself rolling down the mysterious staircase by the toilet. Should this happen, don’t be surprised to find yourself fished out by the barman, a personable gentleman with a theatrical moustache. Highly recommended, and extremely popular, meaning it’s not uncommon to find yourself sharing a bench with a strange Lithuanian man eating unidentified animal parts from a bowl. Also at Polocko 7a. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PJS

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CabaretNew York H-2, Kalvarijų 85, tel. (+370) 699 155 87, www.newyorkclub.lt. In the style of an old-fashioned musi-cal theatre, New York’s more of a live music club than anything else. Set among authentic theatrical décor, evenings include everything from the occasional cabaret act to all sorts of mu-sic shows to the theatre’s long-running play, Urvinis Žmogus (Defending the Caveman). Q Working hours depend on the repertoire. Entrance 25-60Lt. PE

Gay & LesbianSoho G-4, Švitrigailos 7/16, tel. (+370) 699 395 67, www.sohoclub.lt. One main space for drinking and chatting and another for dance-orientated activities both sub-divided even further and decorated in the style of a vampire’s Council house.QOpen 22:00 - 07:00, Thu 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Entrance free - 25Lt. A

Adult entertainmentVilnius In Your Pocket doesn’t mention what one’s ex-pected to pay for alcohol and ‘other services’ in the places listed in the Adult entertainment section of this guide. Although by no means expensive relatively speaking, strip clubs here aren’t exactly cheap. Be careful.

Aistros Massage B-6, V. Šopeno 1, tel. (+370) 608 444 43/(+370) 5 233 07 32, www.aistrosmasazai.lt. Massages for reducing fatigue and stress courtesy of such delightful-sounding therapies as Erotic, With Honey, and Four Hands. Also at S. Žukausko 26, tel. (+370) 601 903 31. Konstitucijos 12 (Mirage Club), tel. (+370) 608 444 42. Gedimino 37 (Cleopatra Club), tel. (+370) 670 888 84. Konstitucijos 16 (VCUP), tel. (+370) 683 183 66. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PA

Dolls H-3, Konstitucijos 18, tel. (+370) 5 272 84 82. Outstanding dancers wiggle and jiggle their scantily clad flesh before you, above you and possibly even beneath you for a price. Catch a free limousine ride to the club from Old Town to visit the Barbie of your dreams. QOpen 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. Entrance 80Lt. PA

Escape (Cleopatra) G-3, Gedimino 37, tel. (+370) 670 888 84, www.escapeclub.lt. You know how Egyptians in pictures are always thin and svelte, somehow glistening, bathed in golden light, and wearing little skirts? Well, here they don’t bother too much with the skirts. Iif you’re feeling a bit bored, or Bedouin, Cleopatra could offer the diversion you’re looking for. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Entrance 100Lt. PA

Escape (Mirage) H-3, Konstitucijos 12, tel. (+370) 608 444 42, www.escapeclub.lt. You have to see it to believe it. A spectacle of flesh beyond compare, and just out of reach, is promised each night the doors open. Expect to witness the most beautiful women in the Baltics leaving you to wonder whether they were real, or just a mirage. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Entrance 100Lt. PA

Old Town Strip Club C-4, Rūdninkų 14, tel. (+370) 5 212 13 49, www.oldtown.lt. Expect a thumping, throb-bing, erotically charged escapade. These ladies don’t mess around when it’s show time. Well actually they mess around with a lot of toys. The hardcore Eros on display here is unparalleled in this city, but the very best part might just be the deliciously innocent waitresses who somehow manage to keep all their clothes on. QOpen 20:00 - 05:00. Entrance 80Lt. PJA

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churches in the country. In English, and with an optional audio guide, there’s no thread to the things on display, although almost with exception each piece is fascinating in its own way. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 9/5Lt. J

Gediminas Castle & Mu-seum (Gedimino Pilis ir Muziejus) C-1, Castle Hill, tel. (+370) 5 261 74 53. Dating from the 13th century the castle was rebuilt in 1419 by Grand Duke Vytautas following the great fire of Vilnius. In 1610 it was used as a prison for the ruling classes, and during the 1655-1661 Russian oc-cupation the towers and defensive

walls were almost completely destroyed, with serious albeit partial restoration work only beginning in 1930. Inside the tower itself find models of the castle as it was in the 14th and 18th centuries plus other miscellaneous bits and pieces concerned with the building’s history and knights in dented armour. The walk to the top, which is worth visiting for the view alone, is a challenge for many. Accordingly a funicular-type train (tickets 3/2Lt) runs up and down the hill regularly. Find it hidden in a courtyard immediately west of the Applied Art Museum. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon (from Oct 1). Admission 5/2Lt. J

Genocide Victims’ Museum (Genocido Aukų Muziejus) G-4, Aukų 2a, tel. (+370) 5 249 62 64, www.genocid.lt/muziejus. The sign outside reads that between 1940 and 1991 this building housed the representative institutions of the NKVD and KGB, and, accordingly, the exhibits inside relate almost exclusively to the period of oppression and the so-called genocide of the Lithuanian people by the Communist regime.

Understandably a must-see part of any trip to Vilnius for people wishing to understand this often bleak and violent period in the country’s history, what the sign fails to point out is that between 1941 and 1944 the building was controlled by the Gestapo, whose role in the systematic murder of the vast majority of the city’s Jewish population with the willing par-ticipation of many ethnic Lithuanians is, somewhat bizarrely, almost completely overlooked. This worrying oversight should in no way deter readers from visiting what’s a predominantly commendable museum. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 6/3Lt.

The Lithuanian capital’s first period of growth took place immediately south of today’s Cathedral Square, eventu-ally becoming the toothsome jumble of Baroque, Gothic, Neoclassical and Renaissance architecture now known as Old Town. Although most people flock to the city to visit the former, there are plenty of other things to see when in town, from the very Lithuanian eccentricities encountered over the imaginary border in the self-styled Republic of Užupis to the pitifully few remaining relics of a once thriving Jewish community to the occasional Soviet-era masterpiece. Fill the buildings with a reasonably interest-ing collection of museums and galleries, put some decent parks in the spaces in-between, and you’ll find it hard to not find a reason to visit.

Museums & GalleriesAmber Museum-Gallery (Gintaro Muziejus-Galer-ija) C-3, Šv. Mykolo 8, tel. (+370) 5 262 30 92, www.ambergallery.lt. Although not officially a museum this two-storey ode to amber offers explanations in English, German and Lithuanian about the formation, colour, harvesting and processing of Baltic Gold. Follow amber’s history through a series of ancient rooms in the cellar. Amber polishing demos available upon request. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Admission free. J

Applied Art Museum (Taikomosios Dailės Muzie-jus) D-1, Arsenalo 3a, tel. (+370) 5 262 80 80, www.ldm.lt. Housed inside what was the far northeast corner of the city’s original defensive walls, of which some including an original gate can still be seen inside, this worthy inclusion into the city’s national treasures is stuffed full of good things to see, among them little models of how the city once looked, furniture, paintings and much more besides. Among the per-manent exhibits find three unmissable collections of sacred Lithuanian art including examples from both the Catholic and Orthodox Churches dating back as far as the 15th century. Temporary exhibitions also take place throughout the year. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/3Lt. J

Archaeology Museum (Archeologijos Muzie-jus) C-1, Arsenalo 1, tel. (+370) 5 212 02 73. Rather awkward to find hidden away inside a courtyard opposite the funicular station, this often overlooked collection of clothing, documents and other articles tracing the his-tory and culture of Lithuania

from the 13th century to the present is equally interesting for being housed inside a splendid historical building that once made up part of the city’s defensive wall. Blind you with its ingenuity it won’t, but for a pleasant 30 minutes that takes in one or two especially lovely exhibits, locating the hole in the wall to find the entrance is definitely worth the bother. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5/2Lt. J

Church Heritage Museum (Bažnytinio Paveldo Muziejus) D-3, Šv. Mykolo 9, tel. (+370) 5 269 78 03, www.bpmuziejus.lt. Founded in October 2005 by the Archbishop of Vilnius, Audrys Juozas Bačkis, and moved to the splendour of the former 17th-century St. Michael’s Church in 2009, this recommended museum, which in reality celebrates just the Lithuanian Catholic Church, features two floors of paintings, liturgical articles, literature and some fine wooden carvings from the collections of some of the finest

If you haven’t got a lot of time in Vilnius, then the Cathe-dral-Basilica of St. Stanislaus & St. Ladislaus (p.48), Dawn Gate (p.53), Gediminas Castle & Museum (below), Genocide Victims’ Museum (below) and St. Anne’s Church (p.52) are generally considered to be the major sights. This list is of course highly subjec-tive, and in no way reflects the expectations of every single visitor to the city. Vilnius In Your Pocket strives to bring you the widest range of historical and cultural sights and sensations, and is adding to the list all the time. If you think there’s something missing, write to us and let us know.

Essential Vilnius

Vilnius Tourist Information B-3, Vilniaus 22, tel. (+370) 5 262 96 60, fax (+370) 5 262 81 69, [email protected], www.vilnius-tourism.lt. Brochures, entertainment schedules, English-, Ger-

man-, Polish- and Russian-speaking staff. Car rental and accommodation also available. Also several sightseeing tours and excursions arranged plus rental of audio guides. See their website for the latest information as well as their events website at www.vilnius-events.lt. Also at Didžioji 31 (Town Hall), tel. (+370) 5 262 64 70. Geležinkelio 16 (Train Station), tel./fax (+370) 5 269 20 91. Šventaragio 2 (Cathedral Square). QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. J

Tourist information

Lithuanian Energy Museum (Lietuvos Energetikos Muziejus) I-3, Rinktinės 2, tel. (+370) 5 278 20 85, www.muziejai.lt. Housed inside Vilnius’ first power sta-tion, built in 1903, this tremendous museum is packed full of displays including a room full of old cars and motorbikes, a fascinating collection of machines and photographs dedicated to the post-war Soviet industrialisation of the country and the history of Lithuanian manufacturing plus, on the top floor, two rooms for children complete with touch-screen displays and interactive games aimed at explaining the basics of science, which is in English as well as Lithuanian. Everything has been built around the old power plant turbines and steam boilers, giving the place a really special atmosphere. Highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 10/5Lt.

Lithuanian Theatre, Music & Cinema Museum (Li-etuvos Teatro, Muzikos ir Kino Muziejus) B-3, Vilniaus 41, tel. (+370) 5 262 24 06, www.ltmkm.lt. Originating in 1926 as a theatre museum and slowly collecting departments and exhibits over the decades until it became what it is today, this mildly interesting cultural diversion inside a glorious 18th-century former palace and theatre charts the Lithuanian history of the three arts. Among several badly ventilated rooms full of harmoniums, 19th-century theatre posters and recordings of famous Lithuanian opera singers are one or two gems including several displays given over to the life of the actress Unė Babickaitė (aka. Une Baye or Bye, 1897-1961), who received a modicum of cinematic success in the United States in the 1920s. The museum also features several temporary exhibitions of painting and photography. If you can prevent the old ladies who guard the place from pestering you every couple of minutes you might just find you enjoy this place. Entrance is around the back of the building. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 5/3Lt. J

Marija and Jurgis Šlapeliai Museum (Marijos ir Jurgio Šlapelių Muziejus) C-3, Pilies 40, tel. (+370) 5 261 07 71. The doctor, linguist, translator and Lithuanian political figure Jurgis Šlapelis (1876-1941) and his opera-singing, bookshop-owning wife Marija (1880-1977) were both prominent figures in the Lithuanian national revival movement during the late-19th and early-20th century and who once lived in this very building, Among the many items on display are a few classics for those interested in philology. Of particular interest are the 19th-century books illustrating the development of the Lithuanian alphabet, from the use of Polish letter combinations through some now obsolete diacritics to the letters used today. In Lithuanian only. Bizarre and strangely compelling. QOpen 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free. J

�� what to see


��what to see


National Museum (Lietuvos Nacionalinis Muziejus) C-1, Arsenalo 1, tel. (+370) 5 262 94 26, www.lnm.lt. Parts of the collection date back to the 13th century. On per-manent display are religious and secular items highlighting the cultural and ethnographic life of the nation, including recreations of traditional homesteads, clothing, paintings and much more. Also to be found are some of the things unearthed in the mass grave of Napoleonic soldiers nearby in 2001. The museum also puts on temporary shows, of which some are truly outstanding. A vital key in unlocking the secrets of the Lithuanian people. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon (until Sept 30). Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Tue (from Oct 1). Admission 5/2Lt. J

Sąjūdis Museum (Sąjūdžio Muziejus) C-2, Gedimino 1, tel. (+370) 5 212 48 81. No longer the force they were, the reform movement who spearheaded the fight for Lithuanian independence between 1988 and 1990 continue to operate from this building overlooking the Cathedral. Part office and part museum, the latter holds many interesting artefacts including several volumes of Lithuanian press clippings charting the demise and eventual overthrow of the occupying Soviets, two walls lined with some truly remarkable photographs and the desk where Vytautas Landsbergis oversaw the destruction of the dastardly invaders. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Fri 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free. J

Signatories’ House (Signatarų Namai) C-3, Pilies 26, tel. (+370) 5 231 44 42, www.muziejai.lt. According to the tour guide who whisks you around the place on this 30-minute history lesson, during the first German occupation of Lithuania from 1915 until the end of WWI, the only officially sanctioned Lithuanian organisation was a group who looked after war veterans and who were based inside this building. It was due to this function that the small, three-roomed apartment on the third floor of the building became the setting for the signing of Lithuania’s declaration of independence on February 16, 1918 by the Lithuanian Council (Lietuvos Taryba). The room in which the document was signed, complete with the table it was signed on, is open to view. There’s not much else to see, plus everything remains labelled in Lithuanian only. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 2Lt/free. J

Tuskulėnai Peace Park Memorial Complex (Tuskulėnų Rimties Parko Memorialinis Komplek-sas) Žirmūnų 1f, tel. (+370) 5 275 07 04. Between 1944 and 1947 over 700 Lithuanians and Poles were executed by the KGB and buried here. In 1994 the remains of the bodies were discovered and the area has now been turned into a memorial park. The park complex currently comprises the manor, the former stable building next door that now houses an art gallery, a smaller house nearby with attached Catholic shrine and a columbarium (kolumbariumas), an extraordinary underground burial chamber that’s really a mausoleum and where the remains are now kept. Financial problems have seen larger plans for the complex shelved until a future unknown date, although tours can be booked in advance. Q Open by appointment only. Admission free.

Vilnius Picture Gallery (Vilniaus Paveikslų Galerija) C-3, Didžioji 4, tel. (+370) 5 212 42 58, www.ldm.lt. Housed inside the charming 17th-century Chodkevičiai (Chod-kiewicz) family palace, this splendid little museum is of the type in which a menagerie of middle-aged ladies shuttle you around from room to room like a pinball. Ignore them if you can, and enjoy a great collection of Lithuanian painting, drawing and sculpture plus a couple of rooms stuffed full of exemplary furniture. They also put on temporary exhibitions here, of which some are well worth checking out. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/3Lt. J

V. Aukštaitis

National Art Gallery (Nacionalinė Dailės Galerija) H-3, Konstituci-jos 22, tel. (+370) 5 219 59 60, www.ndg.lt. Found inside a renovated and en-larged building that once housed the Museum of the Revolution of the Lithuanian Soviet Socialist Republic,

this bold endeavour showcases the work of a multitude of artists of Lithuanian origin from the 20th and 21st century. Among the commendable cast of contributors, examples on permanent display include work from a diverse range of artists including the Jewish sculptor Jacques Lipchitz (1891-1973) and the country’s most outstanding documentary photog-rapher Antanas Sutkus (b. 1939). The museum is organised to highlight particular styles, eras and political attitudes to art in Lithuania under the numerous regimes of the past century and also stages temporary exhibitions that are well worth visiting. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Thu 13:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/3Lt.

Wax Figures Museum (Vaškinių Figūrų Muziejus) C-5, Aušros Vartų 19, tel. (+370) 673 723 11. Over 100 life-size wax figures on two floors including everybody from the late Pope John Paul II to a 3D reproduction of Leonardo da Vinci’s The Last Supper to Adolph Hitler no less. The historical building in which the museum is located dates from the 17th century. Initially belonging to the Orthodox Church, in the months preceding Lithuanian independence in 1918 it fell into the of hands the Lithuanian Education Association (Lietuvių Mokslo Draugija) and was briefly the home of none other than independence hero Jonas Basanavičius. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 16/6Lt. J

ChurchesBernardine Church & Monastery (Bernardinų Bažnyčia ir Vienuoly-nas) D-3, Maironio 8, tel. (+370) 5 260 92 92. Once forming par t of the ci ty’s original defensive walls and constructed on the site of an earlier wooden church dating from the middle of the 15th century at the behest of an

order of Bernadine monks, the current vast Gothic church with Baroque and Renaissance additions dates from the early part of the 16th century onwards. As the old photographs on display show, the church interior was truly breathtaking before the Soviet authorities took control of the building, handing it over to the Vilnius Art Institute who among other things alleg-edly incorporated parts of the interior into the works of art the academy was producing. Returned to the monks soon after independence, a mammoth restoration project continues to

this day. Current highlights include 14 magnificent rococo altars and the oldest known crucifix in the country, dating from the 15th century. The neighbouring monastery is the oldest part of the ensemble. Once famed for its extensive library and independent-minded monks, the monastery was closed soon after the failed Uprising of 1863 and turned into a barracks for tsarist troops before falling into the hands of the city’s Art Academy at the end of WWI. The building now houses the Vilnius Art Academy. Q Mass Mon, Tue, Thu 07:30, Wed 07:30, 18:00, Fri 07:30, 18:00, Sat 09:00, 18:00, Sun 09:00 (English), 10:30, 13:00, 17:00. J

Church of Sts. Michael & Constantine (Šv. Kon-stantino ir Michailo Cerkvė) H-4, J. Basanavičiaus 27, tel. (+370) 5 212 17 90. Built in 1913 at the very end of tsarist rule within the city as part of the 300th anniversary celebrations of the Romanov Dynasty, this rather absurd-looking Russian Orthodox church is famed hereabouts for its garish green domes. On closer inspection, the church, which supposedly incorporates elements of both the Rostov and Suzdal styles, is a beautiful design, as early postcards showing the original dome designs attest. The interior is relatively plain, and only really recommended for serious enthusiasts.

Church of the Apparition of the Holy Mother of God (Znamenskaya) G-3, Vytauto 21/1, tel. (+370) 5 275 13 75. Built in 1903 and topped with several beautiful Neo-Byz-antine cupolas, this is one of the best loved Russian Orthodox churches in Vilnius. Among the numerous icons hanging inside are potted plants that make the place feel really alive. Next to the icons are special prayers for each saint, but as everything in the church is written in Russian you’ll need a translator to help work them out. The church was fully restored inside and out in 2009. Q Services Sat, Sun 09:00.

Cathedral-Basilica of St. Stanislaus & St. Ladislaus (Vilniaus Šv. Stanislovo ir Šv. Vladislovo Arkikat-edra Bazilika) C-2, Katedros 1, tel. (+370) 5 261 11 27. The most important Catholic build-ing in Lithuania, this fabu-lous building was first built

in 1251 by a newly converted Grand Duke Mindaugas on the site of a pagan temple. Returned to pagan use after Mindaugas’ death in 1263, the church was given back to the Catholic Church on the country’s official conver-sion to Christianity in 1387, although the building that now stands in its place has little to do with the original structure. The current building dates to around 1419, with countless modifications and additions made after that. Its present Neo-Classical form is mostly the work of the Lithuania’s first true architect, Laurynas Stuoka Gucevičius (Pol. Wawrzyniec Gucewicz, 1753-1798), also responsible for a number of other notable buildings in the city including the Town Hall. The rather plain nave betrays eleven chapels, among them the must-see High Baroque Chapel of St. Casimir (1458-1484), Lithuania’s patron saint. Built in 1636 to house his remains, its one of the country’s national treasures. The three statues of Sts. Stanislaus, Helena and Casimir on the roof, supposedly representing Poland, Russia and Lithuania, are 1997 cop-ies of the 18th century originals removed by the Soviets in 1950. Spending several years as an art gallery, the building was returned to the Catholic Church on October 22, 1988 during the eventful Sąjūdis Congress and was re-consecrated on February 5, 1989. The 57-metre bell tower was originally part of one of the gates in the city’s defensive wall and has been added to several times over the centuries which gives it its peculiar shape. It received six new bells in 2002, baptised by Cardinal Audrys Bačkis, the current Archbishop of Vilnius, in a special ceremony. Q Mass 08:00, 17:30, 18:30, Sun 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:15, 12:30, 17:30, 18:30. J

Cathedral

50 what to see


51what to see


Franciscan Church (Pranciškonų Bažnyčia) B-4, Trakų 9-1, tel. (+370) 5 261 42 42. The Franciscan Church, or the Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary and Franciscan Abbey in Vilnius to give it its full title, dates from the middle of the 14th century. Currently a beguiling building site of crumbling Gothic and Baroque magnificence, work continues both inside and out to restore it to its original beauty. Amidst the hastily assembled wooden seating, pile of bricks on the sanctu-ary and scaffolding towers, work is slowly moving forwards. At the time of our last visit, the Chapel of the Virgin Mary, complete with a statue of the lady reputed to have miracle-working powers, was nearing completion, giving some indication of how things will eventually look. Q Mass 17:30 (Lithuanian), 19:00 (Polish), Sun 10:00 (Lithuanian), 11:30, 13:00 (Polish). J

Holy Trinity Church & Basilian Gate (Šv. Trejybės Cerkvė ir Bazilijonų Vartai) C-5, Aušros Vartų 7, tel. (+370) 5 212 25 78. Consisting of a church, monastery, belfry and beautiful rococo gate, with the exception of the latter much of it in a state of hideous disrepair, the Holy Trinity Church originally dates from 1514 and features elements of Gothic, Baroque and Neo-Byzantine architecture. Built at the behest of the Belarusian national hero Konstantin Ivanovich Ostrozhsky (Konstantinas Ostrogiškis, ca. 1460-1530), the church, which was extensively altered after a serious fire in the middle of the 18th century, belongs to the Uniates or Eastern Catholic Church, a peculiar faith which fuses together many Orthodox beliefs whilst recognising the Pope as God’s representative on Earth and is a complete mess inside although some wonderful frescos are just visible both inside and out. The elaborate, 17.9m gate was built in 1761 to a design by Johann Christoph Glaubitz (Jonas Kristupas Glaubicas, ca. 1700-1767). Q Services only in Ukrainian Mon-Wed 06:30, Thu-Sat 17:30, Sun 10:00, 13:00. J

Orthodox Church of St. Paraskeva (Pyatnickaya) C-3, Didžioji 2. Dating back to the middle of the 14th century and itself built on the site of what many believe to be a former pagan place of worship, the charming albeit somewhat diminu-tive Orthodox Church of St. Paraskeva can not only claim to have been the first church in Vilnius to be made of stone but is also the alleged location of the baptism in 1705 of none other than Hannibal, the African prince and great grandfather of Alexander Pushkin who was brought to Russia by Peter the Great from part of Africa that’s now Eritrea. Originally in the hands of the Uniate Church, the building, which had been rebuilt on several occa-sions due to fire, fell into disrepair around the time of the Third Partition of 1795, laying abandoned for seven decades before being almost completely rebuilt in 1864 only to suffer major fire damage during WWII. Reconstructed in 1949, the building closed in 1961, opening a year later as a museum of painting before being returned to the Orthodox Church on May 31, 1991. Unusually for a Russian Orthodox Church in Lithuania, services are conducted in Lithuanian once a week on a Sunday. J

Orthodox Church of the Holy Spirit (Stačiatikių Šv. Dvasios Cerkvė) C-5, Aušros Vartų 10, tel. (+370) 5 212 77 65. Dating originally from the mid-16th century but pre-dominantly now the combined work of the city’s most renowned and prolific religious architect Johann Christoph Glaubitz (Jonas Kristupas Glaubicas, ca. 1700-1767) who spent four years on the rococo design between 1749 and 1753 and later 19th-century Neo-Byzantine modifications, the entire ensemble is comprised of the church, a free-standing bell town, monastery and convent although it’s the church interior that’s of most interest, being positively bursting with frescos, icons, a magnificent cupola and rich blue and green colours. A particular quirk of the church’s crypt saw it being chosen in the middle of the 19th century as the final resting place of the supposedly incorruptible Saints Jonas, Eustachius, and Antanas, couriers of Algirdas whose remains are displayed dressed in white at Christmas, in black during Lent, in

uses before General Muravyov and his brother had it restored to its current Georgian appearance and used as a house of worship towards the end of the 1860s. Q Services Sat 17:00, Sun 09:00. J

Church of the Holy Spirit (Šventosios Dvasios Bažnyčia) B-3, Dominikonų 8, tel. (+370) 5 262 95 95. Like many of the city’s churches, the Dominican Church of the Holy Spirit was built on the site of a former wooden house of worship that met a fiery fate. The current building’s appearance started taking shape towards the end of the 14th century. In 1501 it was given to an order of Dominican monks who built a monastery nearby. Its present Baroque appearance dates to the mid-18th century when the church was rebuilt after serious fire damage. Inside is a wealth of Baroque and rococo splendour, well worth further investigation. Interestingly, the building, which functions as Vilnius’ Polish Catholic community’s main church, remained opened throughout the entire Soviet oc-cupation. Gaining rare access to the church’s crypts promises a ghoulish adventure amidst some 2,000 corpses in varying states of repair. Dating from the 17th and 18th centuries, the bodies are supposedly victims of the plague. Q Mass only in Polish 15:00, 18:00, Sun 08:00, 09:00, 10:30, 12:00, 13:30, 18:00. J

Evangelical Lutheran Church (Evangelikų Liuteronų Bažnyčia) B-4, Vokiečių 20, tel. (+370) 5 212 37 92. Built in 1555, two years after the first German-speaking Lutheran community is said to have arrived in Vilnius, the crowning glory of this small Gothic and Baroque church on the street named after the city’s German community is the gorgeous rococo altar, dating from 1741 and the work of Johann Christoph Glaubitz (Jonas Kristupas Glaubicas, ca. 1700-1767), a Lithuanian of German extraction and the city’s foremost architect at the time. Serving as a workshop and basketball court under the Communists, the building was returned to its congregation in 1991 and has since become the predominant house of worship for the capital’s multi-de-nomination, English-speaking Christians. Q Mass Tue, Thu 08:00, Wed 18:00, Fri, 17:00, Sun 09:45 (English, Ecumenical Protestant), 11:00 (Lithuanian). J

Church of the Holy Cross (Šv. Kryžiaus Bažnyčia) B-2, S. Daukanto 1, tel. (+370) 5 260 93 47. On the other side of the Presidential Palace from the University, this charm-ing little church’s history dates back to 1543 and the building of a chapel on the site to commemorate the martyrdom of a group of 14th-century Franciscan friars. Slowly added to over the centuries, including the attached Bonifratri Monastery, the church is now more or less late Baroque in appearance with a few rococo flourishes, and is notable as being the only church in Vilnius converted from an ordinary house rather than being purpose-built. The small interior is well worth having a peep at if the main doors aren’t bolted as they usually are, the most outstanding feature being the painting, Holy Virgin Mother of Snow on the high altar, a copy of which can be found on the fresco over the main entrance. The small square in which the church is located also features a stylised, Soviet-era bust of Lau-rynas Stuoka-Gucevičius (1753-1798), Lithuania’s first serious architect who was responsible for the contemporary look of the Cathedral-Basilica of St. Stanislaus & St. Ladislaus among other buildings in the city. Q Mass 17:15, Sun 10:00 (Latin), 12:00.

Church of the Holy Mother of God (Skaisčiausios Dievo Motinos Cerkvė) D-3, Maironio 14, tel. (+370) 5 215 37 47. Originally dating back to the middle of the 14th century, this slightly unusual-looking church which also func-tions as the city’s Russian Orthodox Cathedral and that as such is often referred to as the Cathedral of the Theotokos in Vilnius owes much of its partial Neo-Byzantine design to reconstruction work completed in 1522. In 1808, soon after the start of tsarist rule in Vilnius, the building fell into the hands of Vilnius University who divided it into two floors, constructing a library, classrooms and dissection rooms for anatomy classes inside. In 1842 soldiers moved in as the church acted as a barracks before it took on several other

Baltic Travel Service Lufthansa City Center C-4, Subačiaus 2, tel. (+370) 5 212 02 20, www.bts.lt. Exciting sigthseeing tours in Lithuania with profes-sional guides. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA

BTI West Express Lietuva A-1, A. Stulginskio 5, tel. (+370) 5 212 25 00, www.westexpress.lt. Also at Saltoniškių 9 (Panorama), Ateities 91 (Mandarinas). QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA

Lithuanian Holidays H-1, Šeimyniškių 1a, tel. (+370) 5 263 60 64, www.lithuanianholidays.lt. Jewish and other Vilnius tours. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Vilnius City Tour C-5, Aušros Vartų 7, tel. (+370) 5 261 55 58, www.vilniuscitytour.com. English-language guided tours start from Cathedral Square daily at 10:00 and 13:00, 15:00 and cost 75Lt, and from the Town hall at 10:10, 13:10 and 15:10. Also bus tours to Trakai daily at 11:00 (100Lt) and daily audio guides from Cathedral Square at 12:00 and 17:00. QOpen 09:30 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 15:00. J

Sightseeing tours

red on all other occasions with the exception of June 26 when they’re put on display entirely naked. Q Services 08:00, 17:00, Sun 06:45, 10:00, 17:00. J

Reformed Evangelical Church (Evangelikų Reformatų Bažnyčia) A-3, Pylimo 20, tel. (+370) 5 279 10 52. The origin of the Protestant Church in Lithuania, whose three traditional strongholds still exist in Biržai, Kėdainiai and Vilnius, dates back to John Calvin’s lifetime in 1557, although this particular church, considered one of the finest examples of Neo-Classical architecture in the country, was built considerably later between 1830 and 1835. The work of one of the best local Neo-Classical architects of his day Karolis Podčašinskis (Pol. Karol Podczaszyński, 1790-1860), the church was closed by the Soviets in 1953, eventually becoming a cinema, a fact the church now betrays courtesy of the cinema seats still in use. Q Mass in Lithuanian Sun 11:00. J

Fans of cycling will be over the moon to discover local heroes VeloCity (see p.61) currently organise two cycling tours of Vilnius. Welcome to Vilnius is a free, hour-long tour of Old Town and Užupis, taking in the old city walls, Cathedral and other sights along the way. All Sides of Vilnius is a more ambitious adventure, which for just 50Lt leads cyclists around the city, including trips through the centre and further afield and lasting between three and four hours in total. Both tours include a bicycle (or you can bring your own on the larger tour and pay just 25Lt) and, on the latter, free water. Tours run daily Monday to Friday, start at 11:00 from VeloCity HQ and run until October. See their extensive website for more information.

Cycle tours

52 what to see


5�what to see


Places of interestCentre of Europe (Europos Centras) Lithuania has the proud and noble distinction along with at least six other places of being smack in the middle of Europe. The Lithuanian claim stems from a 1989 ruling by Jean-George Affholder of France’s Institut Géographique National who announced that the site lies at Bernotai, close to the village of Purnuškės some 26km north of Vilnius. The exact point, which can be reached by driving out of the city on the A14 in the direction of Molėtai and looking for the signs, has been commemorated with the construction of an expensive monument, a fact that may go a long way to explaining why a recent recalculation placing the centre of Europe six kilometres closer to Vilnius is being more or less ignored by the cash-strapped nation. Ultimately one should remember that Europe is a concept and not actually a continent at all, making the whole affair slightly ridiculous in the first place.

Dawn Gate (Aušros Var-tai) C-5, Aušros Vartų 12, tel. (+370) 5 212 35 13. Completed in 1522, the Dawn Gate (or Sharp Gate (Ostra Brama) as it’s known to the Poles) is the only remain-ing gate from the city’s original defensive walls. As was common at the time, an image of the Virgin Mary was placed above all gates to protect the city, and the story of the Dawn Gate starts from this simple historic fact. The current image, known as The Blessed

Virgin Mary Mother of Mercy, was painted on eight pieces of oak in around 1630 by an unknown artist, was embellished with gold and silver about 40 years after that, was housed inside a purpose-built chapel above the gate in 1706 and is believed to have magic healing powers. Interestingly, the Dawn Gate is revered by both the Catholic and Orthodox faiths and is such an important part of the city’s cultural heritage that it remained open throughout the Soviet occupation. Watch closely as people walking underneath say a silent prayer. The chapel is open to the public and is accessed via a small door on the left as you’re walking up the hill. Q Mass 07:30 (Latin), 09:00, 10:00 (Polish), 17:30 (Polish), 18:30, Sun 09:00 (Polish), 09:30, 11:00, 13:00 (Polish), 17:30 (Polish), 18:30. J

Green Bridge (Žaliasis Tiltas) H-3. A bridge of one descrip-tion or another has stood on the spot of the Green Bridge since 1536. The current 103-metre metal construction dates from 1952 and was originally named after a Red Army general. The four groups of extraordinary sculptures at each corner represent agriculture (3.2m, sculptors B. Bučas and P. Vaivada), industry and construction (3.2m, sculptors N. Petrulis and B. Vyšniauskas),

St. Nicolas’ Church (Šv. Mikalojaus Cerkvė) C-4, Didžioji 12, tel. (+370) 5 261 85 59. The forerunner to this church dates supposedly to the second decade of the 16th century, belonging from 1609 until 1827 to the Uniate Church. At some time during the 18th century the original church burnt down and was replaced soon after in the Late Baroque style. At the height of the tensions between the Russians and several other ethnic communities in the city, the church was confiscated on the orders of General Muravyov and converted into a Russian Orthodox church with several Neo-Byzantine additions made in 1865. With its predominantly Catholic tower and typically Orthodox dome the church is one of the most peculiar looking houses of worship in the capital. Q Services Sat 09:00, 17:00, Sun 09:00. J

Sts. Johns’ Church (Šv. Jonų Bažnyčia) C-3, Šv. Jono 12, tel. (+370) 5 268 71 55. Built at the same time as Lithuania’s conversion to Christianity in 1387, albeit with numerous radical alterations through the centuries, the vast and imposing Sts. Johns’ Church was given to the Jesuit Church in 1571 by Zygmunt II August (Žygimantas Augustas, 1520-1572). On the dissolution of the Jesuit Order in 1773, the church was handed over to the adjoining University. The present building, which contains elements of all of the major architectural styles associated with Old Town boasts an ex-traordinary and predominantly Gothic interior whose crowning glory is its organ of which parts date back to an organ that came from the Belarusian city of Polotsk in 1831. The organ, the largest in country and that received a complete overhaul in stages between 1974 and 2000, is used extensively in classical concerts the church is now famous for. Q Mass Tue-Thu 18:00, Sun 11:00, 13:00. J

Sts. Peter & Paul’s Church (Šv. Apaštalų Petro ir Povilo Bažnyčia) J-3, Antakalnio 1, tel. (+370) 5 234 02 29. Believed to have been built on the site of a site of worship to Milda, the pagan goddess of love, this breathtaking Late Baroque masterpiece was commissioned to celebrate victory over the Russians in 1668 by Michael Casimir Pac, the Grand Hetman of the Lithuanian armies, who never lived to see its completion. Financed by two of Pac’s cousins and completed under several master craftsmen including the Polish Jan Zaor and Italian Gianbattista Frediani, the rather plain façade betrays an interior by Giovanni Pietro Perti and Giovanni Maria Galli that’s quite simply out of this world. Containing over 2,000 astonishing stucco mouldings repre-senting miscellaneous religious and mythological scenes, of equal magnificence are the 20th-century altar containing a wooden figure of Christ, Antakalnio Jėzus (Jesus of An-takalnis) which features real human hair brought from Rome in 1700 and the Latvian chandelier made of brass and glass beads and dating from 1905. Q Mass 07:00, 07:30, 17:00 (Polish), 18:00, Sun 07:30, 08:30 (Polish), 10:00, 11:30, 13:00, 18:00 (Lithuanian).

St. Theresa’s Church (Šv. Teresės Bažnyčia) C-5, Aušros Vartų 14, tel. (+370) 5 212 35 13. Probably Vilnius’ best surviving example of Early Baroque religious architecture, work on the first incarnation of St. Theresa’s was completed in around 1650. Built at both the behest and expense of the then Deputy Chancellor Steponas Pacas (Pol. Stephan Pac), the straightforward idea behind its construction was to create the most beautiful church in the city, a fact that can clearly be seen by its elaborate façade, predominantly the work of the Swiss-born Constantino Tencalla (1610-1647) who also worked on St. George’s Chapel inside the city’s Cathedral. The spectacular and predominantly rococo interior, much of it added in the middle of the 18th century, is a riot of golds and pinks. Q Mass 07:30, 09:00, 18:30, Sun 09:30, 11:00, 18:30. J

St. Anne’s Church (Šv. Onos Bažnyčia) D-3, Mairo-nio 8. Unquestionably one of the city’s most famous landmarks and quite rightly so, the history of St. Anne’s starts with the alleged construction in the 14th century of a wooden house of worship on this spot in honour of Ona, the wife of Vytautas the Great. The first historical records of a church here date from 1394, although the current Gothic masterpiece

is believed to have been built between 1495 and 1500 to a design by the Bohemian architect Benedikt Rejt (1453-1534), most famous for designing parts of Prague Castle. Unlike other historical churches in Vilnius, St. Anne’s has managed to escape the ravages of time almost unscathed and is arguably the least changed of them all. Composed of 33 different styles of brick assembled into a delicate and intricate whole, the effect is simply quite stunning. It’s been said the façade incorporates the Pillars of Gediminas, one of the country’s earliest symbols, although this is hardly clear from looking at it. The interior is perhaps surprisingly free of ostentation, although this is hardly needed due to the spectacular design of the structure. The free-standing bell tower has nothing to do with the original structure, being built only in 1873. A visiting Emperor Napoleon in 1812 famously if somewhat apocryphally noted he’d like to take the building back to Paris in the palm of his hand. Q Mass 18:00, Sun 09:00, 11:00. J

St. Casimir’s Church (Šv. Kazimiero Bažnyčia) C-4, Didžioji 34, tel. (+370) 5 212 17 15. St. Casimir’s in many ways represents a microcosm of Lithuania itself. Founded by the Jesuits and dedicated to Lithuania’s patron saint Prince Casimir Jagiellon (1458-1484), construction on the mighty building began in 1604 and was completed in 1635. Burnt to the ground just 20 years later when the Russians invaded in 1655, conflagration visited twice again within the next century in 1709 and 1749 before the architect, math-ematician and astronomer Tomas Žebrauskas (Pol. Thomas Zubrówka, 1714-1758) restored it to more or less the form its seen in today. Over the centuries the church fell into the hands of the Augustinians, Napoleon’s Army, the Russian Orthodox Church (who significantly altered its appearance), the Lutherans (who used it as the garrison church for the occupying German Army during WWI) and others, including the Soviets who turned the whole place into a museum of atheism no less. Returned to the Catholic Church in 1988, the building was consecrated in 1991 and has since undergone a massive renovation project, restoring its predominantly Baroque style with Gothic and Renaissance touches. Of particular interest inside are three late Baroque altars and a recently discovered 17th-century crypt containing dark bas-reliefs featuring miscellaneous religious motifs. Q Mass 17:30, Sun 09:00, 10:30, 12:00. J

St. Nicholas’ Church (Šv. Mikalojaus Bažnyčia) B-4, Šv. Mikalojaus 4, tel. (+370) 5 262 30 69. Pre-dating the country’s conversion to Christianity by some 70 years, Vilnius’ oldest surviving church was built in 1320 by German merchant immigrants. Mentioned for the first time in 1387, the impressive, classic red brick Gothic exterior remains pretty much as it looked the day it was finished with the interior having received numerous changes and additions over the centuries. During the disputed annexation of the Vilnius region during the two World Wars, this was the only church in the city open to the city’s small Lithuanian-speaking Catholic community. Q Mass 08:00, 18:00, Sat 09:00, Sun 08:00, 10:00, 14:00. J

peace (4m, sculptor B. Pundzius) and that old Soviet chestnut, youth (3.2m, sculptors J. Mikėnas and J. Kėdainis). One of a few examples of blatantly Soviet art still in a public place, the Socialist Realist masterpieces have evaded removal on the grounds that they represent no real people living or dead. Criminally rusting and falling apart, something needs to be done to ensure that they stay around for many years to come.

Hill of Three Crosses (Trijų Kryžių Kalnas) I-3. Legend has it that long ago seven Franciscan monks were crucified here. Originally erected in the 17th century, Stalin had the crosses removed and buried, and only in 1989 were they rebuilt according to the original plans. The crosses are a great symbol of both Lithuanian mourning and hope. An excellent view of Old Town is also to be found at this spot.

Kenesa F-3, Liubarto 6. The Lithuanian Karaite or Karaim are the smallest ethnic historical community in Vilnius, with just 150 or so remaining members of a people who settled in Lithuania in the 14th century. The Karaite are a Jewish sect who can be traced back to Mesopotamia (modern day Iraq) who adhere to the Old Testament and the Decalogue, but don’t accept the Talmud. The Lithuanian Karaite were originally Tatars living on the Black Sea, almost certainly Muslim and who were converted to the Karaite faith in the 13th century. Enigmatic and as yet not properly understood, the Lithuanian Karaite, who number less than 500 nationwide, are on the edge of extinction. During the Soviet occupation, their Moorish-looking kenesa, built in 1922, was closed and made into a warehouse. Like the country’s other remaining kenesa in Trakai, the building is almost always locked.

Literatų Gatvė C-2/3, Literatų. Inspired by Aidas Marčėnas’s poem Literatų Gatvė about a wistful young man drinking and smoking with his friends on the street of the same name, the highly recommended permanent outdoor gallery on Literatų is dedicated to writers past and present who’ve all left their mark on the city. Comprised of small, mixed-media prints, drawings and paintings celebrating everyone from Jonas Mekas to Czesław Miłosz to Romain Gary, the gallery, all the work of local artists, grew from humble beginnings in 2008 and now features just over 100 superb pieces.

M. K. Čiurlionis’ House (M. K. Čiurlionio Namai) C-4, Savičiaus 11, tel. (+370) 5 262 24 51. Although more famous for his painting, Mikalojus Konstantinas Čiurlionis (1875-1911) has quite a reputation as a composer. This is the house in which the great man lived for a short time in a small room that can be visited. The rest of the building, which during Čiurlionis’ time was both a family house and a shop, features reproductions of his paintings and a small concert space which stages musical productions almost every Wednesday evening. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free. J

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55what to see


Radvila Palace (Radvilų Rūmai) B-2, Vilniaus 22, tel. (+370) 5 262 09 81, www.ldm.lt. Housed in the former palace of the noble Radvila family, whose 165 portraits are on display in one of the halls. Other exhibits include foreign fine art from the 16th century to the present day. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/3Lt. J

Stebuklas C-2, Arkikatedros Square. About halfway between the Cathedral and the bell tower is the stebuklas, or miracle. Essentially a piece of stone believed to perform wonders and with the word stebuklas written on it, the site marks the spot where one end of the human chain of some two million protesting Lithuanians, Latvians and Estonians stretching the 650km or so to Tallinn was formed on August 23, 1989. A symbol of freedom and hope, stand on the mira-cle, turn a complete clockwise circle and make a wish. J

Television Tower (Televizijos Bokštas) Sausio 13-osios 10, tel. (+370) 5 252 53 33, www.lrtc.net. The tallest building in Lithuania, the 326m Television Tower was built from reinforced concrete and steel between 1974 and 1980 to a design by V. Obydovas and K. Balėnas. On Janu-ary 13, 1991 as the disintegration of the USSR reached a frenzied pace and Moscow attempted to retake control of the Lithuanian media, Soviet tanks surrounded it in an assault that killed 13 unarmed civilians. The tower has since become a potent Lithuanian symbol. Around it are a few monuments and photographs of those who lost their lives and whose names the nearby streets are now called in honour of. In-side at ground level is the small Sausio 13-osios Ekspozicija (January 13th Exhibition) exhibition commemorating the brutal events including a copy of the original Soviet military attack plan, weapons used to beat protesters and some disturbing photographs. The exhibition is free, although the 40-second ride in the lift to visit the combined 270m restaurant and view-ing station isn’t. The ticket office also sells several Television Tower souvenirs. A taxi from Old Town costs somewhere in the region of 20Lt. Alternatively, take trolleybus Nº1, 3, 7 or 16 to the Televizijos Bokštas stop. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00. Last entrance 21:00. Admission 21/9Lt.

Town Hall (Rotušė) C-4, Didžioji 31, tel. (+370) 5 261 80 07, www.vilniausrotuse.lt. First mentioned in 1503, the Town Hall most likely dates from the 15th century, while the present Classical structure was built at the end of the 18th century. In 1810 the governor general ordered that the Town Hall housed a theatre, which gave performances on and off until 1924. Since then its interior has been a museum. Until the reestablishment of independence in 1991, it served as the Lithuanian Art Museum. Today it’s the Artists’ Palace where you can see gallery art. J

Vilnius University (Vilniaus Universitetas) C-2/3, Universiteto 3, tel. (+370) 5 268 72 98, www.vu.lt. Established in 1579 and one of the oldest universities in Eastern Europe, the splendid ensemble that makes up Vilnius University’s main campus buildings embraces just about every major architectural style of the last 400 years. Originally belonging to the Church, the University became a secular seat of learning in 1773 and has remained so ever since. Closed for much of the 19th and the first 18 years of the 20th century, famous past students who’ve studied here include the Polish Romantic poets Adam Mickiewicz and Juliusz Słowacki, the Lithuanian author and historian Simonas Daukantas (see him on any 100Lt note) and the Lithuania-born Polish Nobel Prize-winning author Czesław Miłosz. As well as housing the oldest library in the country, Vilnius University is also famed for its lovely courtyards, of which depending on your definition of what a courtyard is, there are either 12 or 13.

Planetarium (Planetariumas) H-3, Konstitucijos 12a, tel. (+370) 5 272 41 48, www.planetarium.lt. A classic 60s sci-fi adventure of the old school, the dilapidated but charming Planetarium is available for pre-arranged tours of 15 people or more. Featuring a galaxy of projectors aimed at the inside of the building’s dome, shows include the fabulously named Venture into Space and Stars and Music. Find the entrance on Šnipiškių, immediately south of Konstitucijos. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:30 - 15:30, Sat 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Open from Sept.

Presidential Palace (Prezidentūra) C-2, S. Daukanto aikštė 3/8, tel. (+370) 5 266 41 54. The official residence of the President of Lithuania, the Presidential Palace started out life in the 14th century as a much smaller structure built at the behest of the city’s first Bishop, Andrzej Jastrzębiec (?-1398). Gaining its late Classical appearance much later, the building remained the home of the cream of the city’s Catholic clergy until the 1795 Partition when it became the residential address of Vilnius’ tsarist governors. Many illustrious figures have spent a night in the building over the centuries, among them Tsar Alexander I, Napoleon Bonaparte and local boy, the some-time dictator, military giant and Polish national hero Józef Piłsudski (1867-1935) to name but a few. After inde-pendence in 1990 the building served several purposes until assuming its current role in 1997. The presidential flag can be seen flying over the building when the President is in residence or in the city. Changing of the Guard takes place on Sundays at 12:00. Q Free tours of the Presidential Palace take place on Fridays and Saturdays. Tours are limited to 25 people and are currently in Lithuanian only. For more information, see www.president.lt or call tel. (+370) 5 266 40 73. J

Kalnų Parkas D-1. Covering some 25 hectares immediately northeast of Old Town at the confluence of the Neris and Vilnia, Kalnų Parkas (Hill Park) is a popular retreat for walks and, during the summer, concerts on the park’s Soviet-era outdoor stage. Also home to the Hill of Three Crosses (see p.53), the area the park now occupies is shrouded in a number of contentious mysteries. The so-called Gedimino Kapo Kalnas (Gediminas’ Grave Hill) for example, one of the park’s four hills and now a spiritual gathering ground for many followers of the country’s pagan Romuva organisation, is supposedly the site where the founder of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, Grand Duke Gediminas (ca. 1275-1341) is buried. No such evidence exists to support the claim however.

Sereikiškių Parkas D-2. Nestled inside a loop of the Vilnia river just east of Old Town, this immensely popular place for walks at any time of year was once the site of the city’s late 18th-century botanical gardens. Redesigned and renamed the Youth Park after WWII, the park now boasts tennis courts and a funfair and is also the venue for numer-ous outdoor craft and folk festivals every summer.

Vingio Parkas F-4. Situated to the west of the city along the meandering Neris river, this wooded park cover-ing 160 hectares of pine woods was famed as far back as the 16th century. It’s believed that Alexander I was at a ball here when he received news of Napoleon’s invasion in 1812, an event mentioned in Tolstoy’s War and Peace. The park is more famous these days as the setting for rock concerts, firework displays, jogging and the launch-ing of hot-air balloons during balmy summer days.

Parks & Gardens The University itself claims 13, although by rights the correct number should be 12 as one of them only has three walls, the fourth having been destroyed during construction work on the neighbouring Presidential Palace. The ensemble was fully restored in 1979 and is well worth investigating. A map can be found at Universiteto 7 explaining where everything is. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. J

MonumentsFrank Zappa A-3, K. Kalinausko 1. Hot Rats! Deceased rock and roll pervert, part-time classical composer and father of Moon Unit has had his head immortalised in brass and stuck on a stainless steel pole in a lacklustre courtyard just west of Old Town. Commissioned by a student and created by the octogenarian sculptor Konstantinas Bogdanas (b. 1926) who once churned out Lenins and other noteworthy comrades for the bureaucrats in Moscow, the statue is notable as being the first monument of the man to be erected anywhere in the world. If you’re now wondering what the connection between Lithuania and Frank Zappa is, don’t. There isn’t one. J

Grand Duke Gediminas C-2, Arkikatedros Square. Unveiled in September 1996, the monument to Gediminas (1275-1341), who famously founded Vilnius in 1323 and who was also Grand Duke of Lithuania from 1316 until his death, stands more or less on the spot where the howling iron wolf that inspired the moving of the country’s capital from Trakai al-legedly appeared in his dream. Strangely, the aforementioned beast is represented in V. Kašuba’s creation not in metal as one would expect, but in stone. J

Lazdynų Pelėda C-5, Karmelitų & Arklių. Lazdynų Pelėda (Hazelnut Owl) was the collective pen name of two sisters, Sofija Ivanauskaitė-Pšibiliauskienė (1867-1926) and Marija Ivanauskaitė-Lastauskienė (1872-1957). Born into a family of Polish-speaking nobility in the village of Paragiai in northeast Lithuania, their stories, often full of political observation, were written in Polish by Marija and then translated into Lithuanian by her Sofija. The slightly haunting, Egyptian style sculpture made in their likeness and unveiled in 1995 is officially known as Seserys (The Sisters) and is the work of the sculptor Dalia Matulaitė and architects the Rimantas Buivydas and Juras Pankevičius. J

Mindaugas C-1, Arsenalo 1. Taking pride of place outside the National Museum since July 6, 2003, the 750th anniver-sary of the crowning of the country’s one and only king in 1253, Mindaugas (1200-1263), who’s generally considered to be the founder of the Lithuanian state, was a bit of a character to say the least. Clumsy in his personal affairs and switching from paganism to Catholicism and back to paganism to suit his needs, Mindaugas was eventually assassinated by his nephew and served as little more than a footnote in Lithuanian history until he was resurrected by the national revival move-ment of the late 19th century. R. Midvikis’ granite likeness of the man sees him sitting on his sostas (throne), from which the Lithuanian language gets its word for capital, sostinė, literally ‘the place where the throne is’. J

Užupis Angel D-3, Užupio. After a long and singularly strange career as an oversized egg cup, the tall pillar in the heart of Vilnius’ breakaway republic Užupis (where every dog has the right to be a dog) finally gave birth to a long awaited angel on April 1, 2002, the official independence day of the wacky district. After a long and sometimes tedious unveiling ceremony, the covers were finally lifted, and in a big burst of billowing balloons the surprisingly beautiful figure of an angel was revealed, playing a trumpet and generally being rather awesome. The work of the Lithuanian sculptor R. Vilčiauskas, find it at the junction of Užupio and Malūnų. J

First mentioned in 1337 by the Teutonic Knights, and one of Lithuania’s former medieval capitals, despite being home to just 5,400 souls modern-day Trakai provides boundless cultural and pastoral experiences for scores of urbanites of both local and foreign persuasion, year round. Crowned by a magnificent

Gothic castle (see below), Trakai (from the Lithuanian word trakas, or glade) is equally well known for its many inhab-itants both past and present, among them Lithuanians, Jews, Poles (who still make up a small percentage of the population and who know the town as Troki), Russians, Tatars and the Lithuanian Karaite, an intriguing, Turkic-speaking offshoot of the larger Judaic Karaite movement who arrived in the town from the Crimea at the end of the 14th century and who are currently teetering on the border of extinction. Just 28km west of Vilnius and an hour or so by car from Kaunas, Trakai is both a tempting daytrip as well as a destination worthy of further attention thanks to it being located inside the country’s smallest national park.

Castle & Trakai History Museum (Trakų Pilis ir Trakų Istorijos Muziejus) Trakai Castle, tel. (+370) 5 285 39 46, www.trakaimuziejus.lt. More like playing a giant game of snakes and ladders designed by MC Escher than an enriching cultural experience, the Trakai History Museum is spread around the Castle and linked via a baffling array of higgledy-piggledy wooden steps and dark, plunging spiral staircases. The two main collections are to be found inside the western casemates (casements) and the Ducal Palace, the former and least interesting made up of 19th-century European glassware, ivory walking stick handles and the like and the latter a collection of items dug up in the vicinity of the Castle, a huge collection of coins, a small exhibition dedicated to the Karaite and a few life-size models of medieval gentlemen with enormous handlebar moustaches. Some explanations are in English, but much remains in Lithua-nian, Russian and German only. More than worth it for a look around the Castle if nothing else. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Admission 12/6Lt.

Trakai

Žemaitė A-1, Gedimino 27-29. Born into an impoverished Polish-speaking family with aristocratic roots and affectations, as a child the Lithuanian novelist Žemaitė (real name Julija Beniuševičiūtė-Žymantienė, 1845-1921) was forbidden to speak Lithuanian, at the time the language of the common people. Inquisitive and defiant, the young Žemaitė made friends with local serfs and was soon fluent in her mother tongue, the language in which she was eventually to write in. Self taught and unusually political for a woman at the time, Žemaitė’s sombre tales concentrate on issues surrounding the miseries of peasant life and family squabbles, all written in a vernacular style as spoken by rural Lithuanian-speakers of the time. Her statue, the work of the architect brothers Algimantas and Vytautas Nasvytis who are also responsible for the interior of the Neringa restaurant and the Seimas among other things, was unveiled somewhat strangely at the height of the Cold War in 1970.

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5�Jewish vilnius


CemeteriesVilnius’ extraordinary cemeteries offer an often emotional and always interesting journey through the rich tapestry of races and cultures that built the city. For information on the city’s two Jewish cemeteries, see Jewish Vilnius.

Antakalnis Cemetery (Antakalnio Kapinės) J/K-2, Karių Kapų 11, tel. (+370) 5 234 05 87. Thought to have begun life as a cemetery way back in 1809, the so-called Soldiers’ Cemetery (Karių Kapinės) can be found in the forested area of Antakalnis a couple of kilometres or so from Old Town. The Polish soldiers’ graveyard, distinguished by undulating rows of identical headstones, lies to the left of the entrance. Nearby stands a small collection of Tartar graves complete with Islamic symbols. To the left and deeper into the cemetery, large Soviet soldiers guard the (no-longer burning) eternal flame. To the soldiers’ right is the ghastly Soviet memorial encasing the graves of Soviet Lithuania’s dignitaries. Take a hike up the stairs on your left to reach the ‘red star’ graves of Soviet soldiers who died fighting Lithuanian partisans. Perhaps most poignant are the graves of the border guards murdered by the Soviets at Medininkai on July 31, 1991 and the civilians killed by Soviet paratroop-ers during the January 1991 demonstrations, all guarded by a stunning Pietà. Still in use, among the more notable recent additions are a large patch of grass surrounded by a tiny concrete wall and containing the remains of the Napoleonic soldiers discovered in the city in 2002, and the final resting place of the often overlooked Lithuanian composer Antanas Rekašius (1928-2003).

Officially known as the Solemnity of All Saints, All Hallows or Hallowmas, All Saints’ Day (Lithuanian, Visų Šventų jų Diena) is a Roman Catholic solemnity observed on November 1 in commemoration of de-parted souls in Heaven who’ve attained beatific vision. Celebrated in different ways around the world, Vilnius’ Lithuanian and Polish Catholic communities generally attend evening Mass (see Churches) before heading to a cemetery after dark to light candles on the graves of deceased relatives as well as on those no longer attended. Originally dating from the 7th century and once held in May on the same date as an earlier, similar pagan festival, two of the most moving and visually attractive spectacles can be found in the city’s Rasos Cemetery, where among other things a large bonfire is lit and homage paid by local Poles to the heart of Józef Piłsudski, and in Antakalnis Cemetery where candles are lit for everybody including Lithuanians, Poles, Soviet soldiers and even Tatars.

All Saints’ Day

Bernardine Cemetery (Bernardinų Kapinės) J-4, Žvirgždyno 3, tel. (+370) 5 216 20 64. Founded in 1810 by Bernardine monks, the cemetery is perhaps the most attractive and romantic cemetery in Vilnius. Located over a li ttle less than four hectares on a rolling hill run-ning down to the Vilnia river, the cemetery fell into disrepair soon after WWII before being finally shut in 1970. Independ-ence has seen it flourish with

the assistance of the Lithuanian and Polish governments, although much work remains to be done. Of particular interest are the columbaria, once used for holding urns full of ashes and now slowly crumbling away. Among the eminent university professors, scientists and painters buried here find a few surprises including Geleda Dzerzhinskaja (1849-1896), whose claim to fame was giving birth to the founder of the forerunner of the KGB, Felix Dzerzhinsky (Feliksas Dzeržinskis).

Karaite & Tatar Cemetery (Karaimų ir Totorių Kapinės) Žirnių. Following the destruction in the mid-1960s of the original cemetery in Lukiškės, the former traditional home of the city’s Karaite and Tatar communities, a new cemetery was opened in a remote area in the southern part of Vilnius close to the airport. Among the graves, which are marked in an extraordinary mixture of Hebrew (Karaite) and Arabic (Tatar), is that of the Karaite scientist, historian and head of the Lithuanian and Polish Karaite communities Chadži Seraja Chan Šapšalas (Pol. Hadżi Seraja Chan Szapszał, 1873-1961). The cemetery is still in use, but is generally closed to visitors. According to tradition, women are forbidden from visiting. Find it on the stretch of Žirnių to the east of the road to the airport, before the ski slopes on the north side.

Rasos Cemetery (Rasų Kapinės) I/J-5, Rasų/Sukilėlių, tel. (+370) 5 265 65 63. Founded in 1801 and the final resting place of many of the country’s social elite, this extraordinary cemetery stretched over a large area divided by a main road is still in use today, providing an extraordinary snapshot of the cultural history of the city. Hidden away here find the artist and composer Mika-lojus Konstantinas Čiurlionis

(1875-1911), the author and publicist Jonas Basanavičius (1851-1927), whose grave is inscribed with a peculiar, 19th-century version of Lithuanian that predates its written standardisation, and the heart of Marshall Józef Piłsudski (1867-1935), the local-born Polish general who played a key role in re-establishing Polish independence in 1918 as well as the country’s subsequent annexation of Vilnius in 1920. Buried with his mother under a black granite slab and surrounded by the graves of Polish soldiers, the rest of him lies in Poland’s most sacred burial place under Kraków’s Wawel Cathedral.

Lithuanian Jews can be traced back some seven centuries. The classic Lithuanian Jew (Litvak) is known in folklore for a love of education, no-nonsense straight-talk and a sharp wit. Jews were settled from an early date in Vilna, as the capital was and still is known in Jewish culture (more precisely in Yiddish as Vilne). By the 18th century Vilna had become the world capital of traditional Talmudic learning,

eventually becoming known as the Jerusalem of Lithuania, or Jerusalem of the North. Towering over the many great Jewish figures the city has produced is unquestionably the Gaon of Vilna (Eyliohu son of Shloyme-Zalmen, 1720-1797). Between the wars, Vilna (at that time under Polish rule and known as Wilno) was a bustling international centre of modern Yiddish culture and scholarship. During the Holocaust around 95 per cent of Lithuanian Jews were murdered, the highest percentage in Europe, many by local collaborator-killers, including the vast majority of the 80,000 Jewish residents who lived in the city prior to the Nazi invasion of June 1941. Today’s small and largely aged community of three to four thousand makes bold efforts to maintain its heritage.

Jewish lifeChabad Lubavitch Centre (Chabad Lubavitch Žydų Religinė Bendruomenė) H-5, Šaltinių 12, tel. (+370) 5 215 03 87. This combined community centre and synagogue is engaged in numerous religious projects aimed at enlightening those who need enlightening and restoring the spirit and sensibilities of religious Jewish life. Led by the Boston-born Rabbi Sholom Ber Krinsky, the only truly resident rabbi in Lithuania over the last decade and a half, Chabad is especially known for its festive Jewish holiday celebrations, at which everybody is welcome. It also supplies visitors with kosher food and needed religious items and services. QOpen 09:30 - 15:30. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun.

Choral Synagogue (Choralinė Sinagoga) H-4, Pylimo 39, tel. (+370) 5 261 25 23. Built in a Moorish style in 1903, this is the only one out of over 100 prewar Jewish prayer houses that still functions. The term Choral Synagogue relates to the inclusion of a choir section, a feature considered by some a revolutionary form of modernisation and assimilation at the time it was built. Rabbi Chaim Burstein, who is here part of each month, officiates. Service twice daily throughout the year. Q Services 08:30, 19:30.

Jewish Community of Lithuania (Lietuvos Žydų Bendruomenė) A-2, Pylimo 4, tel. (+370) 5 261 30 03, www.litjews.org. This is the country’s primary address for its living Jewish people, providing a wide range of cultural, communal and social services from kindergarten through to senior level. Led by the redoubtable Dr. Shimon Alperovich (Simonas Alperavičius), legendary for standing up for Jewish rights however and whenever the community comes under challenge. Along with the two functioning houses of worship, this is where you can meet the genuine Jewish locals. Keep up to date by picking up a copy here of the country’s only Jew-ish newspaper, Jerusalem of Lithuania, available in English, Yiddish, Lithuanian and Russian. The building also houses a youth club, Jewish Student Union, Union of Former Ghetto and Concentration Camp Inmates and the Union of WWII Jewish Veterans. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J

Paneriai Memorial Museum (Panerių Memori-alinis Muziejus) Agrastų 17, tel. (+370) 680 812 78. Between July 1941, and August 1944, approximately 100,000 people of whom over half were Jewish were murdered at this site by the Nazis and a hotpotch of will-ing Lithuanians from such sinister organisations as the Ypatingasis Būrys (Vilnius Special Squad). A traumatic but necessary part of any Jewish-related visit to Lithu-ania, find several monuments and the remains of the pits where the victims were burned. The typical Soviet-era museum inside a small building on the murder site features exhibits explained in a baffling and irregular mix of languages including everything from stomach-churn-ing photography to the clothing worn by a man whose job it was to sift the remains of the charred bodies for gold. Not recommended for children. Paneriai (Ponar to the Jews, Ponary to the Poles) is about 8km southwest of Old Town. Catch a Trakai- or Kaunas-bound train, get off at Paneriai and turn right on leaving the station. The site is at the very end of the road. To get there by car, drive out on Savanorių in the direction of Kaunas until you reach the E28 highway, peel off here and look for the pitifully few signs put up in order to help you get there. For a chilling, eye-witness account of the events that took place here, read Kazimierz Sakowicz’s extraordinary book Ponary Diary, 1941-1943, published by Yale. Q Museum open 09:00 - 17:00. Also by appointment. Admission free.

Paneriai

MuseumsCentre for Tolerance (Tolerancijos Centras) A-4, Naugarduko 10/2, tel. (+370) 5 262 96 66, www.jmuseum.lt. Established inside a former Jewish theatre, the Centre for Tolerance’s activities include visiting exhibitions and a permanent exhibition on the upper floors, including a small tribute to the Litvak Cubist painter Jacques Lipschitz. It is a beautifully restored building and is used for art exhibi-tions, symposiums, conferences, discussions and seminars. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. Admission 5/2Lt. J

Holocaust Museum (Holokausto Muziejus) H-4, Pamėnkalnio 12, tel. (+370) 5 262 07 30. The smallest but most important and best known component of the three addresses that collectively comprise the city’s Vilna Gaon Jewish State Museum, the museum (also known as the Green House) has been led for many years by the indomitable champion of Holocaust truth-telling, Rachel Kostanian. One of its founders, Dr. Rachel Margolis, now in her late 80s, has been in the news for several years as one of the Jewish anti-Nazi partisan veterans wanted for questioning by Lithuanian prosecutors. Unable to return to Lithuania from Israel, her cause has been taken up by US congressmen, members of the British House of Lords and others internationally. The museum is famous for its unvarnished, accurate account of the Holocaust in Lithuania and the massive local involvement in the actual killing. Its modest, old-fashioned exhibits are far from high modern, but the heartfelt creation of local Holocaust survivors. Outside is a small monument to Japan’s pre-war Vice Consul to Lithuania, Chiune Sugihara, who issued thou-sands of visas against orders, saving many Jews from certain death. Find it at the top of a steep driveway and invisible to anyone simply walking along on the street below. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. Open from Sept. Admission 5/2Lt.

Andrew Quested

Read more onlinevilnius.inyourpocket.com

5� Jewish vilnius


5�getting around


Yulik Gurvitch Tel. (+370) 699 907 09Ilya Lempertas Tel. (+370) 687 132 85Regina Kopilevich Tel. (+370) 699 054 56Justina Petrauskaitė Tel. (+370) 699 540 64

Jewish toursBus Trolleybus Both

Single ticket 2Lt* 2Lt* n/aMonthly pass Mon-Fri 75Lt 75Lt 100LtMonthly pass Mon-Sun 85Lt 85Lt 110LtFine for no ticket 60-100Lt

Public transport tickets

As well as single-journey tickets, tickets valid for 24 hours (13Lt), 72 hours (23Lt) and 240 hours (46Lt), that can be used on all city buses and trolleybuses, can be bought from the small kiosk just to the left of the (B-6) train station close to the trolleybus stop as well as inside the little (B-1) Klientų Informacinis Centras opposite the Novotel at Gedimino 9a. A more convenient ticket system for people staying in Vilnius for extended periods is the e-bilietas. Available for a one-time payment of 8Lt, e-bilietas ticket prices are the same as for ordinary tickets. Monthly tickets can be bought in any Lietuvos Spauda kiosk showing the e-bilietas logo. One-day, three-day and 10-day tickets can be bought from the small kiosk (above) or online at www.transportobilietas.lt, which was at the time of going to press sadly in Lithuanian only.* From kiosks. Tickets from the driver cost 2.50Lt.

Depending on such variables as time of day, type of car, how you ordered it and your horoscope sign, be prepared to pay anything from 10-25Lt for a ride within Old Town. Taxis are considerably cheaper if called in advance rather than grabbed in the street, although you’re essentially at the mercy of the driver once you’ve shut the door. Drunken foreigners who’ve argued with disreputable drivers in the past have been on occasion punched in the face and even attacked with a knife, although we should stress that the great majority of Lithuanian taxi drivers are honest, hard working people like everybody else. The least you can do is make sure the meter is running before you set off. Always ensure that your hotel hasn’t got a deal with a taxi company, a ‘service’ that can cost up to three times the going rate. The following companies are among the more reliable of the bunch.

Taxis

Company Tel. Rate/km*

Ekipažas (+370) 5 239 55 39 1.25Lt

Martono Taksi (+370) 5 240 00 04 1.50Lt* Prices listed are for standard daytime/evening journeys

From Vilnius To VilniusDep. Arr. City Dep. Arr.14:30 07:00 1,2*,3,4,5*6 BERLIN1,4,6,7* 20:30 14:5014:30 18:20 1,3,5*,6COLOGNE1,4,6,7* 09:30 14:5014:30 05:45 1,2*,3,6LONDON3,5,7 20:30 14:5009:00 12:30 MINSK 16:00 19:5506:40 10:30 MINSK 12:30 06:2012:50 16:40 MINSK 18:10 22:0514:30 08:45 2*,4PRAGUE4*,6 19:00 14:5006:30 10:50 (10:30 Riga Airport)RIGA 07:00 10:5512:30 17:00 RIGA 08:30 12:4014:15 18:15 RIGA 12:30 17:0018:30 22:25 RIGA(17:30 Riga Airport) 18:00 22:15

21:00 01:20(00:55 Riga Airport)RIGA(02:25

Riga Airport) 02:00 06:20

17:00 07:20 4**,6ROME1,6** 19:00 09:5014:30 20:00 2*,4,6STUTTGART1,4*,6 08:00 14:5021:00 06:30 TALLINN 21:00 06:2017:00 14:05 4**,6VIENNA2,7** 12:15 09:50

22:00 07:00(06:30 Warsaw Airport)

WARSAW (20:00 Warsaw Airport)

19:30 06:20

International bus schedule

More information at www.eurolines.lt. * Valid until Sept 12, 2010, ** until Sept 5, 2010. Days of the week (1=Monday). Valid until Dec 1, 2010.

Public transportYou haven’t really experienced Vilnius until you’ve run the gauntlet of its public transport system, made up of city and private buses, minibuses and trolleybuses. Most routes run from 05:00 until around 23:00 or a little later and thanks to the current economic crisis there are no night buses operating in Vilnius (see Taxis). Single tickets for regular city buses and trolleybuses can be purchased from any Lietuvos Spauda kiosk or direct from the driver for a little more. A single ticket is valid for any one journey of any distance over any period of time on any singular vehicle. Almost without exception, no public transport runs in Old Town. Travelling by public trans-port, especially during rush hour, is not for the faint hearted. Expect to be poked, squeezed and trod on. It goes without saying that pickpockets work several routes around the city. As of July 15, 2010, entrance to all city buses and trolleybuses is only allowed via the front door and vice-versa.

Buses Most buses in Vilnius are owned and operated by the city, with a few private buses offering a ride for the same price as a city bus if you bought your ticket from a kiosk (2Lt). For the uninitiated, recognising which is a private and which is a city bus isn’t easy. As a rule, city buses tend to be blue and yellow, but not always. Private buses are a little faster as they don’t have to pull in at every stop along the route. Tickets for private buses are only available on board, and are sold by a conductor who makes a tour of the vehicle every few stops. If riding on a city bus, single tickets need to be validated in the appropriate device. Buy a ticket from the driver if you don’t already have one for 2.50Lt.

Minibuses The minibus, or maršrutiniai taksi to give it its correct name (you may also hear one referred to as a Latvija), is a privately-owned phenomenon as favoured in many former Soviet republics. Often but not always bright yellow, minibuses follow similar routes to buses and trolleybuses, are much faster, and accordingly cost a little more to use (currently 3Lt). They have no official stops, so in order to stop one you need to stand by the side of the road and get its attention by waving your arm. Likewise, you need to tell the driver when you want to get out again. When crowded, hand your payment via other passengers to the driver.

Trolleybuses Many of them done up like a French tart’s boudoir, Vilnius’ upside-down railway keeps a large part of the city’s population on the move. Trolleybuses are often policed by the sort of sweet old ladies usually found staffing counters in English charity shops, although this lot are trained in the martial arts, and can effortlessly remove ticketless lit-tle boys from vehicles by their ears. Ticket etiquette, should you prefer to buy one rather than pay a fine or argue with an elderly spinster, is the same as for city buses.

Mer seros Taksi Tel. (+370) 5 278 88 88, w w w.1421.lt.

Competitive rates and an overall professional approach to the business of delivering people and packages to wherever they want to go on time in their unmistakable yellow vehicles. Airport and other transfers, 24-hour service, online booking. See the website for more. Q1.80Lt/km.

Statues & MemorialsChiune Sugihara G-2. Chiune Sugihara (1900-1986) was the Kaunas-based Japanese consul to Lithuania for the briefest of periods during 1939 and 1940. Between July 31 and September 1, 1940, Sugihara and a Dutch col-league saved around 6,000 Jews by issuing visas, against the orders of their superiors, to get them out of the country. Issuing stamps right up until the moment his train departed for Berlin, Sugihara even handed his stamp out from the train window to a Jew on the platform who continued stamping on his behalf. Many of those he saved later settled in Palestine, and have since championed his cause. A small monument along with dozens of cherry trees planted in his honour can be found on a grassy slope directly southwest of the Reval Hotel Lietuva.

J e w i s h C e m e t e r y (Žydų Kapinės) E-1, Sudervės Kelias 28. By Soviet order, both old Jewish cemeteries were destroyed after the war. With the help of foreign diplomacy only a few graves of famous people such as the Gaon of Vilna were moved here in a con-cession to the community. This new Jewish cemetery was actually opened just be-fore the war and nowadays, especially on Sundays, is a place where Jewish people visit the graves of their be-

loved and you can meet interesting locals. The Gaon’s grave attracts pious visitors from many countries who leave notes of supplication by the graveside. To the left of the entrance is a small office where maps of the cemetery can be obtained if it’s open. Gravestones are covered in the writing of many lan-guages including Yiddish, Lithuanian, Russian, Polish, English. To get there by public transport from the centre, take bus Nº73 from the Lukiškės stop or Nº43 from the station

Map of the Ghetto (Geto Žemėlapis) B-5, Rūdninkų 18. On the site of the former gate to the larger of Vilnius’ two ghettos, find a map showing the size and positioning of the area where the city’s Jewish population were kept before liquidation commenced. J

Romain Gary H-4, Corner of J. Basanavičiaus and Mindaugo. Born and raised a few doors from here at what’s now J. Basanavičiaus 18 as Romain Kacew (Kat-sev), Romain Gary became a prize-winning French author after moving to the country with his mother when he was 14. After a distinguished war record as a pilot in the Free French Air Force (Forces Aériennes Françaises Libres), Gary published his first novel, Education Européenne, in 1945. Perhaps best remembered for wri ting the screenplay to the 1962 WWII blockbuster The Longest Day, Romain Gary was married twice, held the unique (and illicit) distinction of winning the Prix Goncourt on two occasions and suffered from depression, a fact that led to his suicide in Paris on December 2, 1980. Unveiled in 2007, Romas Kvintas’ Vilnius statue shows a little boy clutching a galosh, recreating an alleged moment during Gary’s childhood in the city when he reportedly ate one of his overshoes in an attempt to impress a li ttle girl liv-ing next door, a scene recreated in his autobiographical Promise at Dawn (1961), a highly recommended book of which a large part is set in this part of town.

Tsemach Shabad B-4, Corner of Mėsinų and Dysnos. A statue of Doctor Tsemach Shabad (1864-1935), famous for numerous social acts as well as being the leader of the Vilnius (Wilno) branch of the Folkspartei, or Jewish People’s Party, stands in the territory of the former ghetto, his posture conveniently allowing passers by a quick cuddle and photo-graph. Worth a look if you’re in the area or are particularly interested in the Russian children’s author and translator Kornei Chukovsky (1882-1969), who based his infamous char-acter Dr. Ouch on Shabad, the girl on his arm is presumably representative of the Jewish Community also commemorated in the statue, but she may just be a chum. J

Užupis Old Jewish Cemetery (Užupio Senosios Žydų Kapinės) J-3/4, Krivių. Founded in 1828 at around the same time as the city’s original Jewish cemetery in Šnipiškės was closed, the Užupis Old Jewish Cemetery sur-vived until after the war when it was destroyed by the authori-ties and its gravestones, along with the gravestones from the Šnipiškės cemetery, used in the construction of several building projects in the city. Now little more than a few broken stones on the side of a steep hill with a couple more on the top, a large memorial marks the site. To find it, turn left from Olandų onto Krivių and it’s a few metres up on the left.

Vilna Shul-hoyf (Vilnius Synagogue Square) B-3. Pri-or to WWII this space was filled with dozens of prayer houses as well as the Great Synagogue, an enormous structure built several stories underground so that it wouldn’t surpass the height of any churches. In front of the Gaon’s house at the other end of the square near the present-day start of Žydų stands a rather half-hearted monument to him. A resentful rumour circulates among some that it’s a recycled Soviet-era bust of Marx or Engels. J

Vilnius Yiddish Institute (Vilniaus Jidiš Institutas) C-2/3, Old Campus Vilnius University (Daukanto Court-yard), tel. (+370) 5 268 71 87, www.judaicvilnius.com. Provides credit courses and the famed month-long summer programme in Yiddish, relocated from Oxford in 1998 by its founder, Professor Dovid Katz (www.dovidkatz.net). QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J

WebsitesHolocaust in the Baltics www.holocaustinthebal-tics.com. The meaning of the word genocide in Lithuania is somewhat at odds with that of the generally understood connotation. As part of the almost silent debate currently surrounding the little-known Prague Declaration of June 3, 2008, which is attempting to put pressure on the govern-ments of Europe to recognise communist crimes against humanity as equal to those perpetrated by the Nazis (the so-called Double Genocide theory). Second-generation Litvak and Yiddish-language expert Professor Dovid Katz has recently become the editor of a new website aimed at, in his own words ‘…providing The Second Opinion…’ on this hugely complex and emotional issue. Still in its early stages, the website is building a database of related material and links on the subject of the Holocaust in the Baltics and the Double Genocide issue in general.

�0 getting around


�1getting around


From Vilnius To VilniusDep. Arr. City Dep. Arr.20:00* 05:53 GOMEL 14:18* 00:5505:20 06:48 IGNALINA 04:41 06:2208:22 10:08 IGNALINA 08:08 09:1512:05 13:35 IGNALINA 08:50 10:2015:06 16:52 IGNALINA 11:13 12:5117:171 18:47 IGNALINA 15:23 17:0718:18 19:27 IGNALINA 18:50 20:3519:30 21:09 IGNALINA 19:531 21:1601:15* 08:33 KALININGRAD 09:50** 15:31

KALININGRAD 11:50 17:3004:38 12:03 KALININGRAD 14:01* 19:4010:31 18:09 KALININGRAD 16:39* 22:2113:00 20:27 KALININGRAD 17:56 23:4201:15* 02:33 KAUNAS05:051 06:05 KAUNAS 04:531 06:2905:301 07:09 KAUNAS 05:39 07:2406:20 07:27 KAUNAS 06:251 07:3707:20 08:37 KAUNAS 07:30 09:1508:35 10:15 KAUNAS 08:12 09:2410:20 11:28 KAUNAS 09:11 10:4011:15 12:28 KAUNAS 11:00 12:4512:00 13:15 KAUNAS 12:00 13:1213:50 14:59 KAUNAS 13:40 15:1414:35 16:15 KAUNAS 15:30 16:4216:30 17:30 KAUNAS 16:38 17:5316:35 18:14 KAUNAS 17:50 19:0217:25 18:28 KAUNAS 18:16* 19:4017:40 19:03 KAUNAS 18:50 20:3518:30 20:10 KAUNAS 19:40 20:5219:30 20:40 KAUNAS 20:15 21:4120:35 22:005 KAUNAS 21:15 22:3006:45 11:15 KLAIPĖDA 06:25 11:1009:48 14:37 KLAIPĖDA 11:50 16:2617:30 22:05 KLAIPĖDA 17:10 21:5506:40 10:40 MINSK 03:33 08:0014:16 18:50 MINSK 05:18 10:1417:00 21:40 MINSK 06:30 11:0817:47 22:14 MINSK 18:14 22:0520:00* 00:30 MINSK 19:47* 00:5522:38* 02:58 MINSK 23:463 04:2117:00 08:58 MOSCOW 13:54 04:2117:47 09:27 MOSCOW 18:55 08:0022:38* 15:21 MOSCOW 19:26 10:1415:48 11:10 ST. PETERSBURG 18:15* 12:4318:18 09:00 ST. PETERSBURG 20:55 09:1506:45 09:16 ŠIAULIAI 08:34 11:1009:48 12:21 ŠIAULIAI 13:51 16:2617:30 20:03 ŠIAULIAI 19:19 21:5504:33 05:08 TRAKAI 05:30 06:0805:241 05:59 TRAKAI 06:121 06:5006:08 06:43 TRAKAI 07:11 07:4907:40 08:15 TRAKAI 08:30 09:0810:25 11:01 TRAKAI 11:16 11:5412:34 13:09 TRAKAI 13:24 14:0213:30 14:06 TRAKAI 14:20 14:5815:35 16:10 TRAKAI 16:38 17:1617:55 18:31 TRAKAI 18:50 19:2820:25 21:00 TRAKAI 21:30 22:0812:00 20:30 WARSAW 07:25 17:53

Train schedule

*Even days of the month, ** Odd days of the month. 1 Mon-Fri, 2 Fri, Sun, 3 Wed, Sun, 4Sat, Sun, 5Mon-Fri, Sun, 6Mon-Sat Valid until November 1, 2010.

Although there are two daily flights between Vilnius and Warsaw, which if booked in advance offer an affordable and quick way of travelling between one city and the other, there are other transport options available, most notably the train. According to the official timetable, there are two daily trains between the Lithuanian and Polish capitals, but on closer inspection this proves to be somewhat erroneous. The overnight service turns out to be a bus and the daytime train is actually two trains which meet at the Lithuanian border town of Šeštokai (irritat-ingly written as Šeštokus on the train departure boards at the train station in Vilnius). Neither the Lithuanian nor the Polish trains have on-board catering facilities and the station at Šeštokai is little more than a cattle shed. At a little under 10 hours to make the journey, you might want to consider taking some food and drink with you. Interestingly, the train travels through a large and some-what dilapidated gateway as it passes from one country to the other. Right up until the two countries joined the Schengen area in 2007, this gateway came complete with a huge door that was opened by a sombre-looking Polish soldier to allow the train to pass. Find it immediately north of the station at Trakizki.

Trains to Warsaw

Local bus scheduleBirštonas07:10, 09:30, 10:40, 12:35, 13:30, 14:40, 16:10, 18:10.

Druskininkai07:20, 08:40, 10:00, 12:30, 14:20, 15:40, 17:55, 20:30.

Kaunas05:40, 06:20, 06:35, 07:00, 07:15, 07:40, 08:10, 08:20, 09:00, 09:20, 09:30, 09:45, 09:55, 10:45, 11:05, 11:45, 12:45, 13:20, 13:45, 14:00, 15:40, 15:50, 16:15, 16:45, 17:00, 17:15, 19:20, 19:45, 21:10.

Klaipėda06:00, 06:35, 07:00, 07:50, 08:50, 11:35, 11:55, 12:40, 14:50, 16:00, 16:45, 17:30, 18:30.

Palanga08:50, 11:00, 11:55, 13:20, 14:50, 16:45, 18:30.

Panevėžys06:10, 06:30, 07:05, 07:50, 08:25, 09:50, 10:35, 11:10, 11:30, 12:00, 12:50, 13:30, 14:15, 14:50, 15:10, 15:20, 15:50, 16:30, 17:00, 17:20, 17:40, 18:05, 18:355,7, 19:20, 19:307, 20:157.

Šiauliai06:30, 07:50, 09:50, 11:00, 11:10, 12:00, 13:00, 14:15, 15:20, 16:05, 16:25, 17:40, 18:15, 18:25, 19:20.

Trakai07:10, 08:20, 09:15, 10:55 1-6, 12:10, 13:00, 14:00, 15:20, 17:00, 18:10, 18:45 1,2,3,4,5,7, 20:007.

Days of the week (1=Monday). Valid until December 1, 2010.

TrainsTrain Station (Geležinkelio Stotis) B-6, Geležinkelio 16, tel. (+370) 5 233 00 88, www.litrail.lt. J

Long-distance busesBus Station (Autobusų Stotis) B-6, Sodų 22, tel. 1661, www.toks.lt. QOpen 06:00 - 19:00. JAEurolines Lux Express B-6, Sodų 20b-1, tel. (+370) 5 215 13 77, www.luxexpress.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. J

Car rental

bus (see Public transport for information on tickets), take Nº2 from Lukiškių Aikštė or Nº1 from the train station, or use the shuttle train service that departs from the train station every 30 minutes between 06:30 and 19:30. Buy a ticket on board for just 2Lt. A taxi from Old Town currently costs around 50Lt using a hotel-booked firm, although you can pay considerably less if you can get a friendly local to order you one from a cheaper company. By calling the right company in advance (try tel. (+370) 5 266 66 66) a recent visitor to the city managed to make the trip for just 18Lt.

Air taxiAeroservisas G-3, J. Jasinskio 16g, tel. (+370) 5 252 65 88/(+370) 655 481 21, fax (+370) 5 252 65 89, [email protected], www.airtaxi.lt. Air taxi, VIP services and sightseeing flights. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

AirlinesAer Lingus Tel. (+370) 5 252 50 10, www.aerlingus.com.Aeroflot A-2, Pylimo 8/2, tel. (+370) 5 212 41 89, www.aeroflot.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JAerosvit Tel. (+370) 5 252 50 10, www.aerosvit.com.Air Baltic C-2, Universiteto 10-7, tel. 1825, www.airbal-tic.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JAustrian Airlines Rodūnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 210 50 30, www.austrian.com.Brussels Airlines Tel. (+370) 5 252 50 10, www.brusselsairlines.com.Czech Airlines G-4, M. Valančiaus 4/9, tel. (+370) 5 215 15 03, www.czechairlines.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Estonian Air Rodūnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 232 93 22, www.estonian-air.com.Finnair Tel. (+370) 5 252 50 10, www.finnair.com/lt.LOT Rodūnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 273 90 00, www.lot.com. Q Open 05:00 - 15:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 15:00.Lufthansa Rodūnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 232 92 92, www.lufthansa.com. QOpen 04:30 - 19:30, Fri 04:30 - 17:00.Norwegian Air Shuttle Rodūnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 232 93 22, www.norwegian.no.SAS Rodūnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 230 66 38, www.flysas.com.Skyways Tel. (+370) 5 252 50 10, www.skyways. se.Star 1 Airlines Tel. (+370) 5 247 77 44, www.star1.aero. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.UTair Rodūnios Kelias 8, tel. (+370) 5 232 93 22, www.utair.ru.

CyclingVeloCity D-2, Bernardinų 10, tel. (+370) 5 216 26 71/(+370) 699 560 09, www.velo-city.lt. A local organi-sation who rent bicycles, provide information about cycling in the city and organise city tours, VeloCity also run bicycle taxis in Vilnius and offer guarded parking for bicycles in several places around the city. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. JVeloklinika.lt G-4, A. Domaševičiaus 7, tel. (+370) 606 877 54, www.veloklinika.lt. Tucked away in a courtyard on the small street connecting Kudirkos with Pamėnkalnio, this highly recommended bicycle repair workshop is staffed

Avis Rodūnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 232 93 16, www.avis.lt. Mostly cars under six months old, available with or without a driver. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00.

Budget Rodūnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 230 67 08, www.budget.lt. Q Open 24hrs.Europcar B-2, L. Stuokos-Gucevičiaus 9-1, tel. (+370) 686 329 71/(+370) 5 212 02 07, www.europcar.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JHertz H-2, Kalvarijų 14, tel. (+370) 5 272 69 40, www.hertz.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Rimas Tel. (+370) 698 216 62. Q Open 24hrs.Sixt Rodūnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 239 56 36, www.sixt.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

AirportVilnius International Airport (Tarptautinis Vilniaus Oro Uostas) Rodūnios Kelias 2, tel. (+370) 5 273 93 05, www.vno.lt. Vilnius International Airport, situated ap-proximately 5km south of the city centre, is small and rela-tively easy to use. A restaurant and bar can be found above the main entrance for fond farewells and devilishly expensive cognac. A limited hotchpotch of Duty Free shops and cafés are located the other side of customs control. Free wireless internet is available throughout the airport. To get there by

mostly by young gentlemen listening to Bob Marley with the addition of one older fellow. All maintenance and repair work is undertaken, all of it to a high standard and for a good price. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

Travel agenciesAmber Tours H-2, Kalvarijų 11-9, tel. (+370) 5 275 69 85, www.ambertours.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. AKaleva Travel H-3, Konstitucijos 20, tel. (+370) 5 231 49 59, www.kalevatravel.lt. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. AKelvita B-6, Gėlių 9, tel. (+370) 5 212 77 51, www.kelvita.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JAKrantas Travel A-1, A. Vienuolio 6, tel. (+370) 5 231 33 14, www.krantas.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JASenamiesčio Gidas C-5, Aušros Vartų 7, tel. (+370) 5 261 55 58, www.vilniuscitytour.com. QOpen 09:30 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 15:00. JASofa Travel B-4, Vokiečių 9, tel. (+370) 5 246 16 50, www.sofatravel.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JAThe Beautiful Land Of Nevermind D-3, Užupio 23-9, tel. (+370) 616 200 07, www.nevermind.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. JAVisit Lithuania B-2, L. Stuokos Gucevičiaus 1, tel. (+370) 5 262 52 41, www.visitlithuania.net. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA

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Flight schedule

Airline codes: AY - Finnair, BT - Air Baltic, BRU - Brussels airlines, DY - Norwegian Air Shuttle, EI - Aer Lingus, HCW - Star 1 Airlines, JZ - Skyways, LLS - Aviavilsa, LO-LOT - Polish Airlines, LH - Lufthansa, OK - Czech Airlines, OV - Estonian Airlines, OS - Austrian Airlines, SAS - Scandinavian Airlines, UT - UTair Airlines, VV - Aerosvit. Valid until December 1, 2010, unless indicated.

Prepaid SIM cardsCard Price

(Lt)Local(Lt/min)

London(Lt/min)

Top-up(Lt)

SMS(Lt)

Voicemail(Lt/call)

Coverage

Bitė (Labas) 6 0.49 2 5/10/20/40/99 0.11 0.10 99%

Omnitel (Ežys) 6.99 0.46 2.03 From 5 0.10 Free 99%

TELE2 (Pildyk) 7 0.48 1.85 5/7/10/15/20/35/50 0.10 0.15 96%

Note All prices quoted are for peak-time calls, and are subject to change during the lifespan of this guide.

Wireless W If you’re wireless enabled, you’re ready to go online. There are many cafés, restaurants, hotels and public spaces in Vilnius that are a part of a network of paid wireless internet hotspots. Notable locations include the whole of Pilies and Gedimino, the city’s tourist information centres and the airport, of which the latter also has a few areas where you can connect for free. To use these hotspots, turn your wireless on and choose the Zebra network. When you open your web browser you’ll see a page with instructions and prices. You can pay via SMS if you’ve got a local SIM card. Be warned, however, that the Zebra network is neither cheap nor particularly reliable. Several cafés and hotel lobbies around town provide free wireless access.

3G Both Bitė and Omnitel (see right) provide 3G services for laptop connection to the internet. What you actually get is far from perfect, but if you’re prepared for slightly slower speeds than broadband, your connection drop-ping out a few times a day and incompatible software that could conflict with your operating system it might be just for you. With the added convenience of GPRS backup for obscure locations, both companies offer a range of prepaid and contract options.

Dialup Assuming you’ve got an RJ-11 plug on the end of your cable (visitors from the UK please note that you probably don’t), a nifty, hassle-free dialup option is available for those who can’t find any other connection. Simply dial tel. 890 15 55 55 from anywhere in the country using your dial-up software of choice leaving the username and password blank and away you go. Calls are charged at a standard 0.12Lt/min at all times from a private line (this figure may well be a lot higher in a hotel), and everything is charged directly to whoever’s telephone account you’re using.

Laptop login

Collegium C-3, Pilies 22, tel. (+370) 5 261 83 34, [email protected]. Art meets the internet in this cosy and pleasant internet café right on the main street of Old Town. Full program package for serious work. A range of useful internet and office services

including laptop access, photocopying, printing, binding, laminating, and cheap calls. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Sat 11:00 - 21:00, Closed Sun. J

Emergency numbersPolice Fire Ambulance Tel. 112

PostCentral Post Office (Centrinis Paštas) B-1, Gedimi-no 7, tel. (+370) 5 262 54 68, www.post.lt. The glorious 1969 design inside the city’s main post office does little to help make life easy for anyone wishing to post a letter who doesn’t speak the local lingo. An array of windows provides numerous services, from selling stamps to faxes. There’s also a shop selling a wide range of commemorative stamps for lovers of philately. Note the extraordinary calendar on the wall on the right at the back that needs changing by hand daily. Late night post offices operate in two of the city’s large shopping centres at Ozo 25 (Akropolis), open 10:00 - 22:00, and Saltoniškių 9 (Panorama), open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J

Postal ratesLithuania EU Outside EU

Letter (44g) 1.65Lt 2.95Lt 3.35Lt

Postcard (20g) 1.55Lt 2.45Lt 2.90Lt

CD (130g) 2.50Lt 5.90Lt 11.75Lt

Express mail rates

London Paris New York

DHL 325Lt 325Lt 397Lt

EMS 220Lt 220Lt 220Lt

TNT 192Lt 213Lt 258Lt

UPS 218Lt 218Lt 259Lt

Comparative rates for sending a package weighing a maximum of 500g.

Mobile phonesBitė G-5, Žemaitės 15, tel. (+370) 699 232 30, www.bite.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. AOmnitel G-3, J. Jasinskio 16b, tel. (+370) 698 633 33, www.omnitel.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.TELE2 G-4, Vytenio 9/25, tel. (+370) 5 213 09 10, www.tele2.lt. QOpen 08:30 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Internet cafés

Taškas G-4, J. Jasinskio 1/8, tel. (+370) 685 240 24. Reasonably central, climb the flight of stairs and fight with the teenagers for a battered albeit perfectly decent PC. Q Open 24hrs.

From Vilnius To VilniusDays Dep. Arr. Days Dep. Arr.1 2 3 4 5 – 7 06:50 09:10 AMSTERDAM (OV) till 10 29 1 2 3 4 5 – 7 10:40 13:001 2 3 4 5 – 7 15:45 17:20 BRUSSELS (BRU) Tue, Thu from 08 27 1 2 3 4 5 – 7 11:45 15:101 – 3 4 – 6 – 06:40 07:15 COPENHAGEN (BT) 1 – 3 4 – 6 – 07:55 10:25– 2 – – 5 – 7 18:15 18:50 COPENHAGEN (BT) – 2 – – 5 – 7 19:25 21:551 2 3 4 5 – 7 11:30 12:05 COPENHAGEN (SAS) till 10 29 1 2 3 4 5 – 7 08:30 11:001 2 3 4 5 6 7 06:30 07:05 COPENHAGEN (SAS) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 20:55 23:25– – – – – 6 – 14:15 14:50 COPENHAGEN (SAS) – – – – – 6 – 11:10 13:401 2 3 4 5 – 7 15:15 15:45 COPENHAGEN (SAS) till 10 29 1 2 3 4 5 – 7 12:15 14:451 – 3 – 5 – – 21:40 23:05 DUBLIN (EI) till 09 29 1 – 3 – 5 – – 15:45 20:451 – 3 – – 6 – 21:40 23:05 DUBLIN (EI) 10 02 – 10 30 1 – 3 – 5 6 – 15:45 20:451 – – 4 5 6 7 22:45 00:10 Sat till 08 28 DUBLIN (BT) Sun till 08 29 1 2 – – 5 6 7 00:50 05:55– 2 – 4 – 6 – 23:15 00:25 Thu till 09 18 DUBLIN (HCW) Fri till 09 19 – – 3 – 5 – –7 01:15 06:10– – – – 5 – 7 23:15 00:10 EDINBURGH - Turnhouse(HCW) 1 – – – – 6 – 01:10 05:50– – 3 – 5 – – 14:15 15:20 till 08 19 FRANKFURT/MAIN-Terminal 2 (LH) – – – – – 6 – 10:25 13:251 – – – – 6 7 14:20 15:25 FRANKFURT/MAIN-Terminal 2 (LH) – – 3 – 5 – – 10:30 13:30– 2 – 4 – – – 14:25 15:30 FRANKFURT/MAIN-Terminal 2 (LH) till 10 28 1 – – – – – 7 10:35 13:35 FRANKFURT/MAIN-Terminal 2 (LH) till 10 28 – 2 – 4 – – – 10:40 13:401 2 3 4 – 6 7 19:55 21:05 FRANKFURT/MAIN-Terminal 2 (LH) 1 2 3 4 – 6 7 16:10 19:15– – – 4 – – 7 08:00 10:20 GIRONA-COSTA BRAVA (HCW) till 10 03 – – – 4 – – 7 11:05 15:051 2 3 4 5 6 – 11:45 12:55 HELSINKI - VANTAA (AY) 1 2 3 4 5 6 – 09:45 11:001 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:05 19:20 HELSINKI - VANTAA (AY) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:15 17:30– – – – – 6 – 07:50 11:00 till 10 09 HERAKLION (HCW) till 10 16 – – – – – 6 – 11:50 15:05– 2 3 – – 6 – 10:40 12:00 KIEV - Borispol (VV) till 10 27 – 2 3 – – 6 – 08:30 09:551 – – 4 – – 7 15:45 17:05 KIEV - Borispol (VV) till 10 28 1 – – 4 – – 7 13:30 14:55– – – – 5 – – 15:35 16:55 KIEV - Borispol (VV) till 10 29 – – – – 5 – – 13:25 14:501 – – – – – – 17:55 18:50 till 10 25 LONDON - Gatwick(BT) till 10 27 1 – 3 – – – – 20:25 01:10– – 3 4 – – – 18:00 18:55 LONDON - Gatwick (BT) till 10 28 – – – 4 – – – 19:50 00:35– – – – – 6 – 18:15 19:10 LONDON - Gatwick (BT) – – – – – 6 – 19:55 00:401 2 3 4 5 – 7 16:15 17:00 LONDON - Stansted (HCW) 1 2 3 4 5 – 7 17:45 22:15– – 3 – – 6 – 22:40 00:10 till 09 04 MANCHESTER (BT) till 09 05 – – – 4 – –7 00:50 05:551 – – – 5 – – 08:00 09:35 MILAN - Malpensa (HCW) 1 – – – 5 – – 10:30 14:001 2 3 4 5 6 7 06:00 09:00 MOSCOW - Vnukovo (UT) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 11:40 12:401 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:50 17:55 MOSCOW - Vnukovo (UT) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 20:50 22:00– 2 – – – – – 14:05 14:55 OSLO - Gardermoen (DY) till 10 26 – 2 – – – – – 10:45 13:35– 2 – – – – – 13:00 13:50 OSLO - Gardermoen (DY) till 08 10 – 2 – – – – – 09:40 12:30– – – 4 – – – 14:20 15:10 OSLO - Gardermoen (DY) till 10 28 – – – 4 – – – 11:00 13:50– – – 4 – – – 15:10 16:00 OSLO - Gardermoen (DY) till 08 12 – – – 4 – – – 11:50 14:40– – – – – 6 – 22:40 23:30 OSLO - Gardermoen (DY) – – – – – 6 – 19:20 22:10– – – – – 6– 15:40 17:40 PALERMO (HCW) till 08 28 – – – – – 6 – 18:25 22:25– 2 – 4 5 – 7 11:10 12:55 PARIS (BT) till 10 29 – 2 – 4 5 – 7 13:40 17:201 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:00 15:40 PRAGUE (OK) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 11:25 14:051 2 3 4 5 6 – 05:20 06:15 till 10 30 RIGA (BT) till 10 29 1 2 3 4 5 – – 06:40 07:351 2 3 4 5 6 7 08:35 09:30 RIGA (BT) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:00 10:551 2 3 4 5 – – 10:05 11:00 RIGA (BT) till 10 29 1 2 3 4 5 – 7 18:20 19:051 2 3 4 5 6 7 11:35 12:30 RIGA (BT) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13:05 14:001 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:35 16:30 RIGA (BT) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17:10 18:051 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:30 19:25 RIGA (BT) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 20:10 21:051 2 3 4 5 – 7 22:10 23:05 RIGA (BT) till 10 29 1 2 3 4 5 – 7 23:55 00:501 – 3 – – 6 – 11:00 12:50 ROME (BT) 1 – 3 – – 6 – 13:40 17:301 2 3 4 5 – – 08:00 09:30 TALLINN (BT) till 10 29 1 2 3 4 5 – – 08:10 09:401 2 3 4 5 – 7 19:40 21:10 TALLINN (BT) till 10 29 1 2 3 4 5 – 7 20:15 21:451 2 3 4 – – – 08:50 10:20 TALLINN (OV) till 10 28 1 2 3 4 – – – 07:00 08:25– 2 3 4 – – – 20:00 21:30 TALLINN (OV) 09 07–10 28 – 2 3 4 – – – 18:10 19:35– – – – 5 – – 21:35 23:05 TALLINN (OV) 09 10 – 10 29 – – – – 5 – – 19:45 21:101 2 3 4 5 – 7 13:25 14:25 TALLINN (OV) till 10 29 1 2 3 4 5 – 7 05:30 06:301 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:30 16:30 VIENNA (OS) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:40 13:35– 2 3 – – 6 7 06:25 06:30 WARSAW-Frederic Chopin (LO) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 11:45 14:101 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:50 15:15 WARSAW-Frederic Chopin (LO) – – 3 4 – – 7 22:35 01:001 – – 4 5 – – 06:25 06:50 WARSAW-Frederic Chopin (LO) 1 2 – – 5 6 – 22:35 00:40

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Collectors’ Club (Kolekcininkų Klubas) V. M. Putino 5. What started out as a small gathering of like-minded aficionados trading miscellaneous antiquities in exchange for a bit of pocket money has slowly evolved into a serious weekly event. Stretched out round two full sides of the Trade Union Palace as well as inside, items up for grabs include everything from Czechoslovakian clarinets to furniture to WWII-era Nazi propaganda post-ers in Lithuanian. QOpen 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sun.Flower Market (Gėl ių Turgus) G - 4, J . Basanavičiaus 42. Originally, flowers were sold in a small market at Reformatų, which was a firewood market before that and even further back served as a cemetery for the church across the street. After the erection of the 1983 Monument to the Soviet Partisans on the site, the market was moved to its current location. Notable as being the only 24-hour market in the city, this is the place to come for individual flowers, wreaths and bouquets. Q Open 24hrs.Kalvarijų Market (Kalvarijų Turgus) H-2, Kalvarijų 61. Featuring everything from old ladies selling garlic bulbs and carrier bags to the occasional bargain goat (cash only), one of the city’s most endangered species is a must-see attraction for anyone who wants a taste of what the rest of the country’s really like. One of the best places in town for meat, locally-produced honey and cameras manufactured in the CCCP, also find tropical fish, manbags, Minsk bicycles and cheap cigarettes from the Roma girls near the main entrance. QOpen 07:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.Tymo Turgus D-4, Aukštaičių/Maironio. Labouring under the unofficial moniker The Little Good Food & Culture Festival, this once-a-week jaunt into the world of possible alternatives churns out all manner of envi-ronmentally friendly food from local farmers and well as soaps, cosmetics and the like. Politically edgy in the fluffi-est sense, the market also hosts a regular event where people can vent their spleens a la Hyde Park Corner, plus there’s a place to go for free second-hand clothing and the occasional musical performance. QOpen 14:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun.Verslo Parkas Gariūnai 4km from Vilnius just off the Kaunas highway, www.gariunai.lt. Attracting an average 50,000 shoppers every day, Gariūnai sells cars on one side of the road plus all manner of cheap consumer goods of dubious quality on a truly expansive scale on the other. A taxi from a reputable firm costs around 20Lt QOpen 06:00 - 14:00, Tue, Thu 04:00 - 14:00, Sat 05:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon.

Markets

Unless you’re Latvian or Polish, you probably didn’t come to Vilnius to shop. However, shopping is fun, and, in the case of certain products (notably Lithuanian alcohol, cigarettes and amber) a hell of a lot cheaper than it is in the West. The main shopping areas in Vilnius can be divided neatly into the two areas of Old Town (antiques, amber, books old and new and some nice pieces of art) and parts of the city’s classiest street, Gedimino (designer clothes, mobile phones and more books). The city’s markets are also well worth a visit for an authentic, blast to the past experience if nothing else, as indeed are the increasing number of large shopping centres around the edge of the city, where among other things you’ll find all the clothing and footwear shops we’ve chosen not to list here.

Shopping centresAkropolis G-1, Ozo 25, tel. 1588, www.akropolis.lt. A huge place full of shops and the flocks that visit them. In case shopping isn’t your thing, you can try ice-skating, bowl-ing, or see a film. There’s also a good range of restaurants and a constant cacophonous argument between the cheap car alarms in the enormous car park. Not very central, find it about 3km north of the action. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PAUWEuropa H-3, Konstitucijos 7a, tel. (+370) 5 248 70 70, www.europa.lt. In the heart of the business district just north of the river, find three floors of mostly clothes shops plus a couple of restaurants and a handful of little pods for drinking coffee in. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. PALWFlagman A-1, Gedimino 16, tel. (+370) 698 306 62, www.flagman.lt. Almost exclusively clothing, and not that cheap either. A good location if you need something in a hurry. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. PJAGedimino 9 B-1, Gedimino 9, tel. (+370) 5 262 98 12, www.gedimino9.lt. Vilnius Municipality’s former HQ has been transformed into a grand shopping centre that’s gradu-ally making a reputation as one of the top places to shop or eat on the city’s main retail street. Current highlights include the country’s first Body Shop, the fabulous Marks & Spen-cer and the Nacionalinė Dizaino ir Mados Galerija (National Design and Fashion Gallery), a contemporary retail, events and meeting place that puts on fashion shows and sells top name fashion brands, accessories, perfume etc. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. PJAWHyper Rimi G-4, Savanorių 16, tel. (+370) 5 246 12 00, www.rimi.lt. Not quite everything under one roof (they don’t sell roofs for example), but not far off it. A huge heated expanse offering electrical goods, clothes, books, tools, toys and household essentials as well as a fairly extensive collection of local and imported foodstuffs. Also a few other shops inside the same building. Also at Žirmūnų 64, Ateities 91. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. AIKI Commercial Centre I-2, Žirmūnų 2, tel. (+370) 5 272 19 68, www.iki.lt. One of the country’s largest IKI supermarket selling a wide range of food and household sup-plies as well as a few other shops on three floors and a Čili Kaimas restaurant upstairs. Also at J. Jasinkio 16. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. AOzas H-1, Ozo 18, tel. (+370) 5 210 01 50, www.ozas.lt. Opened in August 2009, the large Ozas shopping centre offers more gargantuan shopping and restaurant services to the city. Find inside a veritable cavalcade of shops selling everything from designer clothes to food. The large Prisma supermarket stocks one of the most extensive ranges of alcohol in Vilnius. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PAULWPanorama G/F-2, Saltoniškių 9, tel. (+370) 5 219 58 11, www.panorama.lt. Loads of retail outlets, enter-tainment centres and restaurants close to the centre in Žvėrynas. Many high street names, a top floor of restaurants, the country’s first electric go-carting centre and smoking rooms next to the public toilets. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PAULWVCUP H-3, Konstitucijos 16, tel. (+370) 5 273 04 69, www.vcup.lt. Once colossal, this former flagship Soviet shopping sensation looks more like a corner shop than an experience these days. Limited retail and dining just north of the river. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PA

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AmberAccording to local legend, amber (gintaras) originates from the tears of the sea goddess Jūratė and the stones from her castle, which was destroyed by Perkūnas, the pagan god of thunder, when he discovered her passionate love affair with the mortal fisherman Kastytis. Scientists, not generally being of the pagan faith, think different. Some 40 million years ago or thereabouts the earth got warmer, causing an increase in the secretion of resin in the pine forests in the region. The streams of resin swept down rivers and into the Baltic Sea, sometimes sweeping up a stray bug along the way. It’s this fossilised resin that now sits in deltaic deposits off the coasts of Kaliningrad, Lithuania, Poland and Sweden. Ask most people and they’ll tell you amber is a dark honey colour. However, visit anywhere selling the stuff and you’ll soon see it comes in such diverse colours as blue, black, white and yellow. White amber is called royal amber and is widely available in Lithuania. Blue and black amber are more rare here.

Amber C-5, Aušros Vartų 9, tel. (+370) 5 212 19 88, www.ambergift.lt. An astounding Aladdin’s cave of amber. The walls and ceiling are plastered with glowing chips of amber while display cabinets are full of jewellery, sculptures and more. Worth visiting even if you’re not interested in shopping. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00 (Aug, Sept). Open 10:00-18:00. Closed Sun (Oct, Nov). JAAmber Museum-Gallery C-3, Šv. Mykolo 8, tel. (+370) 5 262 30 92, www.ambergallery.lt. A great little place apt at displaying amber at its best. The knowledgeable and friendly staff speak English, and can waffle on for hours about the stuff if you want to know all about it. Also at Šv. Mykolo 12. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. JA

Beata Amber C-3/4, Stiklių 10, tel. (+370) 5 234 46 85, www.beataamber.com. As much a wholesaler as retailer, you can pick up amber at a variety of stages of pro-duction here. There are hunks of raw amber, various polished beads and blobs that you can use to make your own jewellery and fine finished creations. Also at Antakalnio 60. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. JAMažasis Gintaro Muziejus C-3, Didžioji 6, tel. (+370) 5 262 49 86. Arguably one of the best places to buy amber. They have a great selection and the girls who work here are really helpful. Also at Didžioji 5, Didžioji 10, Didžioji 11, Pilies 7, Pilies 8, Pilies 10, Stiklių 3. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. JA

AntiquesSenasis Kuparas B-3, Dominikonų 14, tel. (+370) 5 262 10 24, www.kuparas.lt. An excellent shop full of beau-tiful and highly sought-after pieces adjoining a shop selling some quite exquisite glassware. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JAVilnius Antiques Centre C-3, Dominikonų 16, tel. (+370) 5 262 74 79, www.antiques.lt. A wide selection of paintings, icons, furniture, silverwear and other curiosities. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA

Books etc.Akademinė Knyga C-3, Universiteto 4, tel. (+370) 5 266 16 80, www.humanitas.lt. One of the better places in town for foreign literature, which you’ll find in the back room downstairs. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JAFrench Bookshop Pegasas C-3, Didžioji 1, tel. (+370) 5 262 05 17, www.pegasas.eu. Adjoining the French Cultur-al Centre, if they don’t stock it they will happily order. You can also subscribe to French-language magazines here. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA

Humanitas B-3, Dominikonų 5, tel. (+370) 5 262 11 53, www.humanitas.lt. Glossy books about art, architecture, interior design, shoes and Jamie Oliver. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JAMint Vinetu B-3, Šv. Ignoto 16/10, tel. (+370) 618 203 47, mintvinetu.com. Hooray for the lovely people who opened this very welcome second-hand bookshop with small attached café in Old Town. The choice of books, including titles in English, may be small but it’s the best anybody’s managed to do so far. Recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. JWVaga G-3, Gedimino 50/2, tel. (+370) 5 249 83 92, www.vaga.lt. An old Vilnius favourite on two floors. Find a few English books upstairs. Also at Konstitucijos 7a. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A

ComputersiDeal Solution B-4, Vokiečių 5, tel. (+370) 5 240 54 26, www.idealsolution.lt. The best place in town for Apple products, from laptops to iPods. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JAThe Notebook Shop P. Lukšio 17, tel. (+370) 5 274 15 28, www.nshop.lt. A fine selection of PC laptops plus spare parts, peripheries, service and software. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A

Department storesMarks & Spencer B-1, Gedimino 9, tel. (+370) 5 266 00 80, www.marks-and-spencer.lt. Inside the Gedimino 9 shopping centre and situated on two floors, this world classic offers a fairly decent range of clothing and, best of all, has a food shop inside selling a wide selection of products unavail-able anywhere else in the country. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. JA

Food & DrinkAJ Šokoladas G-3, Gedimino 46, tel. (+370) 655 140 55, www.ajsokoladas.lt. Delicious chocolates made daily in Trakai and delivered fresh. Sold by the gramme, so you can be as picky as you like. Also at Konstitucijos 7a (Europa), Pilies 8. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. JABiosala H-3, Konstitucijos 7a (Europa), tel. (+370) 685 858 79. A good selection of mostly organic food in tins and packets plus a few extras such as bio-degradable washing powder etc. Find it right in front of the main door as you enter. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. AGyvo Alaus Krautuvėlė H-3, Konstiticijos 16 (VCUP), tel. (+370) 652 164 54, www.gyvasalus.lt. A small but highly recommended selection of traditional Lithuanian live beers for sale, among them the delicious Butautų Dvaro Alus, available in both light (šviesus) and dark (tamsus) varieties. Find it on the floor at ground level close to the coffee shop. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.Ikiukas D-3, Užupio 7/1, tel. (+370) 5 260 84 88, www.iki.lt. Tucked away in handy locations nationwide, with edible treats and a few household goods on offer. Fresh baked goods are a key attraction, as is the de-cent range of groceries. Also at Pylimo 21, Vokiečių 13. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00. JASenamiesčio Krautuvė C-3, Literatų 5, tel. (+370) 231 28 36, www.senamiesciokrautuve.lt. An interesting idea that takes the old-fashioned deli idea of fresh products laid out in baskets sold by friendly, rosy-cheeked people and transforms it into a total Lithuanian experience. All the food for sale is local, including fruit, vegetables, pickles, sausage, bread, cakes and drinks. During the summer months the shop turns into a bit of a café, with chair and tables in the street. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. JA

Bitinėlis B-6, Šopeno 12/26, tel. (+370) 5 233 05 70, www.bitinelis.lt. A glorious little shop selling a range of locally-produced honey plus everything you ever needed to start producing the stuff yourself. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30, Fri 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JDaiktų Viešbutis Ševčenkos 16a, tel. (+370) 686 497 43, www.daiktuviesbutis.lt. Located in an area rapidly making a name for itself as the place to come for expensive designer bits and pieces for the home, Daiktų Viešbutis (Hotel of Things) is packed with goodies, from clothing to impossible-looking cardboard tables to the latest swanky offerings from the Lomo people. Also at Vokiečių 2 (CAC). Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00, Sun by appointment only. AKomisas G-4, V. Kudirkos 1, tel. (+370) 671 253 46. Second-hand clothes, furniture, televisions, hi-fi equipment and more. An excellent little place to rummage around, they also buy stuff as well as sell it. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.Ona C-4, Šv. Kazimiero 12, tel. (+370) 5 212 42 63, www.ona.lt. A multitude of things for the home, paintings, photographs, jewellery, paper cuts and a host of other similar articles, all made by small-scale artists, designers and producers in Lithuania. Promoting ecologi-cally-friendly products and worthy of much over-needed applause, if that isn’t enough you can buy everything online and three per cent of the money you spend goes to a charity of your choice. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. J

Speciality shops

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Gifts & SouvenirsAukso Avis C-4, Savičiaus 10, tel. (+370) 5 261 04 21. Textile works of Lithuanian artists, expressing Lithuanian culture through a modern context. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JAAušros Vartų Meno Galerija C-5, Aušros Vartų 12, tel. (+370) 685 559 91. One of the better gift and souve-nir shops in an area dripping in mediocre ones, find a small selection of locally-produced folk arts and crafts including some really lovely paper cuttings, intricate lacework, paint-ings and more besides. As if this wasn’t enough, the bright sparks who run the place also offer light refreshments and ice-cream complete with summer outdoor seating. Magic. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. JABSWGintraka C-3, Pilies 32, tel. (+370) 687 818 17, www.ambershop.lt. Amber, trinkets, knick-knacks, souvenirs and a delightful array of miscellaneous bits and bobs. Also at Aušros Vartų 13, Aušros Vartų 4, Pilies 23, Ozo 25 (Akropolis). QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. JALinen & Amber Studio C-4, Stiklių 3, tel. (+370) 5 261 02 13, www.lgstudija.lt. One of the best places to buy linen and amber. They have a great selection, and the girls who work here are really helpful. Also at Didžioji 5, Didžioji 6, Didžioji 10, Didžioji 11, Pilies 7, Pilies 10. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. JALino Namai C-3, Pilies 38, tel. (+370) 5 212 23 22, www.siulas.lt. Linen, the fabric that really breathes, is available for just about any part of the body or home. One of the city’s top shops. Also at Universiteto 10, Vilniaus 12. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. JAMano Lietuviški Namai B-2, Odminių 11 - 2, tel. (+370) 611 166 67. Started by two female inte-rior designers, this interesting shop close to the Cathedral

specialises in gathering the most interesting work from local craftspeople working in ceramics, metal, textiles and general interior design. As well as selling items for interiors, they also provide a full interior design and deco-rating service. QOpen 14:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J

JewelleryYurga B-3, Trakų 16, tel. (+370) 5 212 28 56, www.yurga.lt. Hand-made jewellery inspired by themes from nature and formed from amber, iron, gold and silver. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA

PhotographyFoto Fabrikas G-4, Savanorių 16, tel. (+370) 5 235 40 55. The only truly pro shop in town can provide contact sheets and rush all manner of film formats through in an hour. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. AFotoservisas C-3, Pilies 23, tel. (+370) 5 212 23 27, www.fotoservisas.lt. Prints from film or file. A small selection of point-and-shoot cameras and accessories. Fine for tourists, but not for serious photographers. Also at Gedimino 7, Ozo 25 (Akropolis). QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA

Recorded musicMuzikos Bomba H-3, A.Jakšto 24/3, tel. (+370) 5 262 45 57. Lithuania’s biggest label and one hip shop present-ing jazz, classic, folk, indie, and experimental music. Orders accepted. Also at Vilniaus 22, Kostitucijos 7a (Europa), Ozo 25 (Akropolis). QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JAThelonious C-3, Stiklių 12, tel. (+370) 5 212 10 76, www.thelonious.lt. A superb choice of second-hand CDs and vinyl, mostly jazz but also a few other gems you won’t find in a mainstream music shop. They also sell a range of old-fashioned hi-fi equipment for those who don’t know their iPods from their elbows. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J

Sex shopsAistra B-6, V. Šopeno 1, tel. (+370) 5 233 07 32/(+370) 608 444 43, www.sexparduotuve.lt. You never know, it might come in handy. Also at Ozo 25 (Akropolis), tel. (+370) 5 249 28 83. Konstitucijos 16 (VCUP), tel. (+370) 683 183 66. Viršuliškių 40 (Mada, 2nd floor), tel. (+370) 5 241 01 08. Ukmergės 369 (BIG), tel. (+370) 5 264 33 31. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. JA

Sport & RecreationGolf City Savanorių 1 (Helios City), tel. (+370) 615 161 61, www.golfcity.lt. There are two golf clubs in the Vilnius area (see www.capitals.lt and www.golfclub.lt for more) and this is the shop that serves them. Everything from clubs to tees to those ridiculous patterned trousers golfers love to wear. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. AProsport Ąžuolyno 7, tel. (+370) 682 437 13, www.prosport.lt. Trainers, footballs, rugby balls, golf clubs, racquets, skis, swimming costumes and much much more. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. ASportas ir Mada B-4, Pylimo 36, tel. (+370) 5 262 41 27. A good selection of sports equipment and a limited range of clothing. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA

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Franko C-3, Pilies 23, tel. (+370) 5 262 00 82/(+370) 670 225 54, [email protected]. Get a sprucing-up in this recommended salon right on Pilies. The bright-eyed, English-speaking staff will make your hair swell with style.QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Closed Sun. JA

Lingua Lituanica A-1, Ge-dimino 26, tel. (+370) 5 231 32 39, www.lingualit.lt. Learn Lithuanian with courses of varying

length suitable for everyone from short-term visitors to those who wish to make a life here. Two-week summer and winter courses are also available and include plenty of sightseeing and cultural immersion. Prices are com-petitive compared to courses offered by the universities. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J

Barbers & Beauty Skalbiu Sau Saulėtekio 41, tel. (+370) 5 269 60 98, www.skalbiusau.lt. A good old-fashioned launderette that can also pick up and drop off your laundry if you can’t be bothered to do it yourself. Also at Šeškinės 26, Savanorių 176. QOpen 10:00 - 20:30, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.

DVD rentalEliksyras D-3, Šv. Mykolo 12, tel. (+370) 5 261 64 03, www.eliksyras.lt. An extensive collection of DVDs and videos including a small selection of non-Hollywood blockbusters. Also at A. Domaševičiaus 3/6. QOpen 15:00 - 22:00. JVideoplanet G-4, Savanorių 7 (Forum Cinemas Vingis), tel. (+370) 5 265 02 68, www.videoplanet.lt. Films to rent provided you show a passport or driving licence with photo ID. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00.

Gay & LesbianLegal since just 1993, the age of consent for a homo-sexual relationship in Lithuania is an astonishing 14. The websites at www.gayline.lt and www.gay.lt have information about gay and lesbian organisations, events and accommodation in Lithuania, plus community news, chat rooms and personal ads. Lithuania remains stuck in the Stone Age concerning its attitude towards gay and lesbians, including in the capital

International schoolsAmerican International School of Vilnius I-5, Subačiaus 41, tel. (+370) 5 212 10 31, www.aisv.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.French International School Šilo 13, tel. (+370) 5 276 91 32, www.efv.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Vilnius International School C/D-3, Rusų 3, tel. (+370) 5 276 15 64, www.vischool.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JVilnius Montessori pre-School Naujakurių 29, tel. (+370) 606 382 69 (Mon - Sun), www.vms.lt. The international Montessori English language pre-school opens in Vilnius on September 1. Enrolment has already begun. QOpen 07:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Key cutRaktinė D-2, B. Radvilaitės 7, tel. (+370) 5 212 65 65, www.raktine.lt. Also at Pylimo 49, tel. (+370) 5 212 72 91. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Fri 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. J

Shoe repairAvalynės Taisykla B-4, Labdarių 1/22, tel. (+370) 5 262 88 63. Heels stuck back on in 15 minutes. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J

Vets & PetsSenamiesčio Veterinarijos klinika B-2/3, Liejyklos 6/21, tel. (+370) 5 261 07 60, www.veterinaras.lt. House calls can be arranged. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Closed Sun (until Sept 30). Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00 (from Oct 1). JA

Language coursesJaunimo Perspektyva A-2, Vilniaus 39, tel. (+370) 5 234 09 53, www.ltmrs.lt/jp. Various levels of Lithuanian language instruction on an individual or group basis. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J

LibrariesCAC Reading Room (ŠMC Skaitykla) C-4, Vokiečių 2 (Contemporary Art Centre), tel. (+370) 5 212 19 45, www.cac.lt. Archives of information on contemporary art. Dynamic library with an extensive collection of exhibitions catalogues, theoretical books, periodicals, videotapes and CDs. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JMartynas Mažvydas Lithuanian National Library (Nacionalinė Martyno Mažvydo biblioteka) G-3, Gedimino 51 (Entrance from A. Tumėno), tel. (+370) 5 249 70 23, www.lnb.lt. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Fri 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun (until Aug 31). Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00 (from Sept 1).

WellnessAyurvedic SPA Centre Shanti J-4, Subačiaus 17, tel. (+370) 606 755 57, www.ajurveda.lt. Enjoy a steam sauna, a copper rose bath, massage for two, tea ceremony or ayurvedic relaxing massage and peeling. They speak English and also offer gift certificates. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun (until Aug 31). Open 10:00 - 22:00 (from Sept 1). JAAzia Spa C-4, Šv. Mikalojaus 5, tel. (+370) 644 030 00, [email protected], www.aziaspa.lt. A range of Eastern-style massages with a Buddhist philosophy, plus spa treatments, body scrubs, aromatherapy and more. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. JAEast Island Exotic C-4, Didžioji 40/2, tel. (+370) 5 212 55 99, www.east-island.lt. Spice up your life with a range of massages including several delivered with the aid of stones, honey and even chocolate. They also offer their so-called ‘exciting erotic all body massage’ alongside a less risqué range of facials, body masks and scrubs. Also at Ozo 14c. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. J

Gatineau B-2, Totorių 19, tel. (+370) 5 261 83 64, www.groziopaslaugos.lt. A very pleasant hairdressing, manicure, pedicure, make-up, massage, cosmetology salon with early hours and smiling English- and Italian-speaking staff. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JLondon Hair Design Studio B-4, Žemaitijos 13, tel. (+370) 5 260 96 09. The hair chain with, arguably, the sharpest scissors. Now in Vilnius. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JVis Unita B-2, Odminių 11, tel. (+370) 5 210 70 55, www.visunita.lt. Pampering from top to ... pedicure, including hairdressing, manicure and cosmetology. Also at Konstitucijos 20, tel. 231 49 11. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JA

Cable televisionC Gates H-3, Gedimino 28/2, tel. (+370) 5 210 75 75, www.cgates.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Fri 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:30. Closed Sun.Vdnet F-4, S. Konarskio 49, tel. (+370) 5 215 00 00, www.vdnet.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.Vinita S. Stanevičiaus 21a, tel. (+370) 5 230 13 01, www.vinita.lt. Also at Ozo 25 (Akropolis). QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Fri 08:00 - 16:45. Closed Sat, Sun.

Cleaning servicesDanclean H-3, A. Juozapavičiaus 6/2, tel. (+370) 5 210 43 73, www.danclean.lt. Everything from apartments to offices. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Currency exchangeParex B-6, Geležinkelio 6, tel. (+370) 5 213 54 54, www.keitykla.lt. Capable of changing just about any convertible currency as well as all Baltic denominations and Belarusian roubles. Q Open 24hrs.

Dress hireKino Studija Kareivių 6, tel. (+370) 656 688 28, www.kinostudija.lt. Vilnius’ film studios in Antakalnis can rent you anything they have in stock from their wide range of silly costumes. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Dry cleaners & LaunderettesJoglė G-3, J. Jasinskio 16 (entrance from A. Goštauto), tel. (+370) 5 264 91 64, www.jogle.lt. The full range of dry cleaning and laundry services. Also at Mindaugo 11 (Maxima), Ozo 25 (Akropolis), Konstitucijos 7a (Europa). QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A

Information Bureau Tel. (+370) 699 599 88, www.lithuaniavisits.com. Former journalist and six times European Ham Radio Operator cham-pion, Vilius Vaseikis provides a unique and fascinat-ing service arranging tours of Lithuania for people of Lithuanian descent. Doing everything from helping to locate lost relatives to providing a translator, Vilius is also the man to speak to if you’re thinking of relo-cating to Lithuania or are simply looking to rent an apartment.Lithuanian Central Registry Archive (Isto-rijos Archyvo Skyrius) G-3, K. Kalinausko 21, tel. (+370) 5 233 78 46. The entire Lithuanian civil registry archives from 1940 to the present day, includ-ing records of all births, deaths and marriages. In order to use this service, location and approximate date are essential. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun.Lithuanian Central State Archive (Lietuvos Centrinis Valstybės Archyvas) O. Milašiaus 21, tel. (+370) 5 247 78 11. When the Nazis invaded Lithu-ania, one of their first tasks was to prepare an extensive set of records of everyone living in the country, proving that every cloud, no matter how dark and evil it is, does indeed have a silver lining. Those looking to trace people living in Lithuania during the period of 1941-1942 should consult this archive. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun.Lithuanian State Historical Archives (Lietu-vos Valstybės Istorijos Archyvas) F-6, Gerosios Vilties 10, tel. (+370) 5 213 74 82, www.archyvai.lt. The same as the Lithuanian Central Registry Archive (see above), only these archives are from the church registry up until 1940. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun.Registry (Gyventojų Registro Tarnyba) H-3, Lvovo 7/6, tel. (+370) 5 271 77 88, www.gyvreg.lt. I f you have a name and need an address these people will help you locate the person in ques-tion (the addition of a town helps speed things up no end), although non-Lithuanians be warned that i f the person in question is located they are first asked if they actually want to be ‘ found’ before the address is given. The sensible thing for non-nationals to do is to use this service with a Lithuanian inter-mediary. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun.

Genealogy

www.inyourpocket.com

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DentistsDentists in Vilnius are of a high quality and relatively inexpensive by Western standards. The following dentists all have English-speaking staff.

East Island SPA Centre G-2, Konstitucijos 26 (Forum Palace 1st floor), tel. (+370) 5 272 22 27, www.east-island.lt. One of the city’s largest spas, services here include aromatic bathtubs, a wide range of Thai massages, facials etc. and a wealth of cosmetic procedures to make you feel re-born. The centre comes complete with an Oriental ambience including representations of Buddha on the wall and a tranquil Eastern soundtrack. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. A

Novana J-1, Bistryčios 13, tel. (+370) 686 122 43, www.novana.lt. Laser-related aesthetic procedures in-cluding permanent hair removal with IPL, skin pigmentation treatment, lymph draining massage and much more. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.Nuad Thai C-4, Didžioji 20/1, tel. (+370) 5 212 55 33, www.nuadthai.lt. Thai massage options from top to toe. They even cater for babies and pregnant women. Also at Olimpiečių 1. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. JSala Thai C-3, Gaono1, tel. (+370) 694 196 84, [email protected], www.salathai.lt. Traditional Thai massages including aroma Thai, hot herb, back and shoulder, foot, four-hand and sawatdi massage designed to help you find the real bliss of relaxation, all of it washed down with refreshing cups of Thai fruit tea. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. J

News agenciesBNS A-2, Jogailos 9/1, tel. (+370) 5 205 85 01, www.bns.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J

Print mediaBaltic Times B-5, Raugyklos 15-305, tel. (+370) 5 212 44 90. A weekly newspaper in English with news about all three Baltic states. Published every Friday and available for sale in some bookshops as well as for free in a number of hotels. JImpress-Teva M. Sleževičiaus 7, tel. (+370) 5 230 44 02, www.impressteva.lt. Order foreign magazines and newspapers. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.In Your Pocket C-4, Vokiečių 10-15, tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76, www.inyourpocket.com. Europe’s leading provider of locally produced urban information in print, online, video and PDF. Practical information from Dublin to Moscow, Tallinn to Athens. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J

RadioBBC World Service 95.5FM, www.bbc.co.uk/world-service.

International Women’s Association B-4, tel. (+370) 685 212 43, [email protected], iwavilnius.com. Vilnius’ long established International Women’s Association welcomes women from all cultural backgrounds living in the Lithuanian capital. As well as organising such traditional social events as coffee mornings, the IWA runs a playgroup and is involved in a number of charitable activities. J

Special interest groups

Idzumi Spa I -2, S p o r to 1 2 , te l . (+370) 5 247 24 70, www.idzumi.lt. An

Asian atmosphere permeates and soothes, as do all the treatments and services including spa, sauna, massage, cosmetics, solarium and more. It’s a fresh approach which will leave you feeling very alive and refreshed. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun (until Aug 31). Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 -20:00 (from Sept 1). A

Baltic Reports www.balticreports.com. News and entertainment in English throughout the Baltics edited by professional journalists. Subscription service.Lithuania Tribune www.lithuaniatribune.com. A recommended site featuring news about Lithuania on subjects including politics, economics and inter-national relations. Information is gathered from other news sources, academia and the political world and translated into English.

Online media

A ir B Mackevičių Odontologi-jos Klinika B-2, L. Stuokos-Gucevičiaus 9-9, tel. (+370) 5 261 25 12, [email protected], www.dentaltravel.lt. A team of young dental professionals provid-ing an extensive range of dental services. Q Open Mon - Fri 08:00

- 20:00. Sat, Sun by appointment only. J

Dr. Br. Sidaravičius A-3, Klaipėdos 2/14-3, tel. (+370) 5 262 97 60. Check-up 25-150Lt, cleaning 250Lt, laser - whit-ening 110Lt/tooth, filling 160-600Lt, implant 5,500Lt/tooth. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JGidenta H-3, A.Vienuolio 14-3, tel. (+370) 5 261 71 43, www.gidenta.lt. Check-up 20Lt, cleaning 4 - 6Lt /tooth, laser - whitening 450 - 690Lt, filling 60 - 200Lt, extraction 40 - 400Lt, implant 1,600 - 3,500Lt/tooth. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. AOdontika Krivių 5, tel. (+370) 5 215 31 35, www.odontika.com. Check-up 20Lt, cleaning 150Lt, laser - whit-ening 450Lt, filling 80-120Lt, extraction from 80Lt, implant 1,700Lt/tooth. Q Open Mon - Fri 09:00-20:00. Sat, Sun by appointment only. AStomatologijos Gydykla C-3, Dominikonų 3-45, tel. (+370) 5 262 84 82. Check-up 80Lt, cleaning 5-7Lt/ tooth, laser - whitening 100 - 1,000Lt/tooth, filling 100 - 200Lt, ex-traction 100-500Lt, implant 2,000 - 3,500Lt/tooth. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA

V. Pūro Odontologijos Klinika C-3, Universiteto 2/18, tel. (+370) 5 231 29 52, www.odontologijosklinika.lt. Check-up 40Lt, cleaning 6Lt/tooth, laser - whitening 500-1,000Lt, filling 150-300Lt, extraction 150-400Lt, implant 4,000-5,000Lt/tooth. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA

HIV & AIDSLithuanian AIDS Centre (Lietuvos AIDS Centras) G-5, Kauno 37/59, tel./fax (+370) 5 233 01 11, www.aids.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

HospitalsVilnius University Emergency Hospital (Vilniaus Greitosios Pagalbos Universitetinė Ligoninė) Šiltnamių 29, tel. (+370) 5 216 92 12, www.vgpul.lt.

Medical servicesBaltic-American Clinic Nemenčinės 54a, tel. (+370) 5 234 20 20, www.bak.lt. Highly recommended modern pro-fessional health care and diagnostics. Q Open 24hrs. ABeauty Therapy and Surgery Clinic E-1, Č. Sugiharos 3, tel. (+370) 5 270 57 10, www.sugihara.lt. A highly trained team of consulting doctors will come to the rescue if your beauty is, erm... slipping away. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 18:00. AFertility Centre C-2, Maironio 25, tel. (+370) 5 261 42 26, www.vaisingumocentras.lt. Highly recommended modern fertility treatments. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. JAFertility Clinic Laisvės 64a, tel. (+370) 5 239 05 95, www.vaisingumas.lt. Fertility treatments, obstetrics and modern therapies for menopause. QOpen 08:30 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

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Medical Diagnostic Centre (Medicinos diagnos-tikos centras) J-1, V. Grybo 32/10, tel. (+370) 5 270 91 20, www.medcentras.lt. Excellent staff and facilities for everything from regular check-ups to major surgery, with all the lab tests, scans and caring guidance along the way. English speaking doctors. 24-hour urgent surgery services. Q Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun (until Aug 31). Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun (from Sept 1). A

Medicine General Pri-vate Clinics tel. (+370) 684 331 00 (appointments). City centre location on the main street opposi te the Cathe-dral. Family doctor with excel-lent English, Western trained. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA

Northway Medical Center I-2, S. Žukausko 19, tel. (+370) 5 264 44 66, www.nmc.lt. General practitioners and specialists in cardiology, gynaecology, otorhinolaryngology (ear, nose and throat, in case you’re wondering) and more. There are also rehabilitation, health and beauty centre services. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. AŠeimos Medicinos Centras (Family Medical Centre) A-3, Pylimo 9, tel. (+370) 5 260 86 84, www.seimosgydytojas.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. JASkin and Laser Surgery Center G-4, M. K. Čiurlionio 19/36-30, tel. (+370) 5 264 73 04, www.lazerinechirurgija.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Sports

Bowling & BilliardsCosmic Bowling G-4, Vytenio 6/23, tel. (+370) 5 233 99 09, www.bowling.lt. Wonky lanes and pins on strings. Better lanes and equipment upstairs, where prices are also higher. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. PAFree Ball H-2, Konstitucijos 16 (VCUP), tel. (+370) 5 273 05 91. A pleasant enough space featuring a bar and several pool tables in excellent condition. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PA

ChessŠachmatų ir Šaškių Sporto Mokykla (Chess & Checkers Sports School) H-3, Vasario 16-osios 14, tel. (+370) 5 262 60 29. QOpen 08:30 - 17:30, Fri 08:30 - 16:15. Closed Sat, Sun.

CricketVilnius Cricket Club C-2, Gedimino 1, tel. +370 614 809 91, www.cricketlithuania.com. A group of like-minded foreigners and locals who get together for regular games. J

GolfEuropos Centro Golfo Klubas Girijos, tel. (+370) 616 263 66, www.golfclub.lt. An international standard 6km par 72 course, 26km from Vilnius. Equipment rental and instruction available. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

Racquet sportsTeniso Pasaulis (Tennis World) E-1, Ąžuolyno 7, tel. (+370) 655 040 50. 20-95Lt/hour depending on when you want to play. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. A

Sky stuffVilniaus Dariaus ir Girėno Aeroklubas Lakūnų 1, Kyviškės, tel. (+370) 5 232 57 18, www.dropzone.lt. Get chucked out of a Russian AN-2 biplane at altitudes of up to 2,500m, with a parachute of course.

Table tennisSostinės Stalo Teniso Sporto Klubas J-3, Olandų 6/1, tel. (+370) 654 020 59, www.vilniaus-stalo-teni-sas.lt. Lots of tables, good shower facilities and the option of coaching or just playing for pleasure.

Water sportsVichy Aquapark Ozo 14c, tel. 1653, www.vandenspar-kas.lt. A big explosion of aquatic fun with a pleasantly up-lifting Polynesian theme throughout. There are dizzying water slides, a pretend beach with real waves, oodles of pools of various types (one with a bar) and all sorts of saunas and spa baths. Out in the northern suburbs, the taxi fare’s still worth it, or take bus N°53 if you’re feeling cheap. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. TAEKDC

Narutis C-3, Pilies 24, tel. (+370) 5 212 28 94, fax (+370) 5 262 28 82, [email protected], www.narutis.com. There’s a sauna, steam room and a modest pool with spa bath. And a nice little fountain. A hidden treat on the main tourist promenade of Old Town. JARadisson Blu Astorija C-4, Didžioji 35/2, tel. (+370) 5 212 01 10, fax (+370) 5 212 17 62, [email protected], www.radissonblu.com/hotel-vilnius. A vast(ish) and gleaming facility tucked away under one of the city’s finest hotels. Sauna, pool, spa bath and some fitness kit are all present. You can watch people swimming while you’re on the treadmill. And then join them. JA

Saunas

Forum Sports Club G-2, Konstitucijos 26, tel. (+370) 5 210 31 49, www.forumfitness.lt. Gym, aerobics, 25m pool, saunas, modern equipment and the option of a personal trainer to shout at you while you use it. QOpen 06:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. AFDCImpuls Plus Kareivių 14, tel. 1588, www.impuls.lt. Strength and cardiovascular workout gear, aerobics, sauna, spa, pool and waterslide. Also at L. Asanavičiūtės 15, Ozo 41, Savanorių 28, Fabijoniškių 97a. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 20:00. ADC

Fitness & Gyms

Vilnius Heart Surgery Centre (Vilniaus Širdies Chirurgijos Centras) Laisvės 64a, tel. (+370) 5 239 05 00, www.kardiolita.lt. High-tech heart surgery centre. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Fri 07:30 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

OpticiansOptometrijos Centras B-2, Gedimino 1, tel. (+370) 612 530 90, www.optometrija.lt. Also at Vokiečių 26, Gedimino 9, Vilniaus 31/1. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JARega C-3, Pilies 32, tel. (+370) 5 262 00 73, www.rega.lt. Also at Gedimino 49a/2. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JAVision Express B-4, Saltoniškių 9 (Panorama), tel. (+370) 616 363 41, www.visionexpress.lt. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. JA

PharmaciesAušlavis C-2, Tilto 6, tel. (+370) 5 262 85 88. Homeopathic. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. JAEurovaistinė Ukmergės 282 (Maxima), tel. (+370) 5 230 37 59. Q Open 24hrs. AGedimino Vaistinė H-3, Gedimino 27, tel. (+370) 5 261 01 35. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. JAOperos Vaistinė A-1, A. Vienuolio 6-21, tel. (+370) 5 212 61 16. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JAUniversiteto Vaistinė C-3, Universiteto 2, tel. (+370) 5 212 12 19. QOpen 07:30 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JAVokiečių Vaistinė C-4, Didžioji 13, tel. (+370) 5 212 42 32. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. JA

�� Business direCtory


AccountantsCO Finansai C-1, Olimpiečių 1-45, tel. (+370) 5 205 29 16.Ernst & Young Baltic C-5, Subačiaus 7, tel. (+370) 5 274 22 00.

BanksDnB Nord A-2, Vilniaus 18, tel. 1608.SEB Bankas C-4, Vokiečių 9, tel. 1528.

Business connectionsAmerican Chamber of Commerce G-3, Lukiškių 5-204, tel. (+370) 5 261 11 81.Association of Lithuanian Chambers of Com-merce, Industry & Crafts G-3, A. Tumo-Vaižganto 9/1-63a, tel. (+370) 5 261 21 02.British Chamber of Commerce C-3/4, Didžioji 5, tel. (+370) 5 269 00 62.Chamber of Commerce & Industry G/H-5, Algirdo 31, tel. (+370) 5 213 55 50.European Business Network (EBN) B-2, Gedimino 5, tel. (+370) 5 262 05 09.Invest Lithuania (Investuok Lietuvoje) C-3, Jogai-los 4, tel. (+370) 5 262 74 38.

Conference organisersAIM Group Baltic F-3, Kęstučio 59/27, tel. (+370) 5 212 00 03.Litexpo E-4, Laisvės 5, tel. (+370) 5 268 68 96.Visus Plenus G-4, Vytenio 9/25, tel. (+370) 5 213 63 26.

European CommissionEuropean Commission A-4, Naugarduko 10, tel. (+370) 5 231 31 91.European Commission Information Centre A-4, Naugarduko 10, tel. (+370) 5 231 31 83.

Foreign representationsAustralia (Consulate) B-2, Vilniaus 23, tel. (+370) 5 212 33 69.Austria C-3, Gaono 6, tel. (+370) 5 266 05 80.Belarus Muitinės 41, tel. (+370) 5 213 22 55.Belgium A-3, K. Kalinausko 2b, tel. (+370) 5 266 08 20.Bulgaria A-3, Pylimo 8/2, tel. (+370) 5 249 92 74.Canada A-2, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 5 249 09 50.China H-5, Algirdo 36, tel. (+370) 5 216 28 61.Czech Republic F-3, Birutės 16, tel. (+370) 5 266 10 54.Denmark J-3, T. Kosciuškos 36, tel. (+370) 5 264 87 60.Estonia F-3, A. Mickevičiaus 4a, tel. (+370) 5 278 02 00.Finland G-4, K. Kalinausko 24 (2nd floor), tel. (+370) 5 266 80 10.France C-3, Švarco 1, tel. (+370) 5 219 96 00.Georgia F-3, D. Poškos 13, tel. (+370) 5 273 69 59.Germany G-4, Z. Sierakausko 24/8, tel. (+370) 5 210 64 00.Greece C-4, Didžioji 33/2, tel. (+370) 5 261 05 26.Hungary A-2, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 5 269 00 38.Iceland (Consulate) F-5, K. Konarskio 28a, tel. (+370) 5 215 05 75.India (Consulate) B-2, Odminių 3, tel. (+370) 5 262

04 55.Ireland C-2, Gedimino 1, tel. (+370) 5 262 94 60.Italy F/G-4, Vytauto 1, tel. (+370) 5 212 06 20.Japan F-4, M. K. Čiurlionio 82b, tel. (+370) 5 231 04 62.Kazakhstan F-3, Birutės 20a/35, tel. (+370) 5 212 21 23.Kyrgyzstan (Consulate) P. Lukšio 16-247, tel. (+370) 5 276 22 95.Latvia F-4, M. K. Čiurlionio 76, tel. (+370) 5 213 12 60.Malta (Consulate) C-4/5, Subačiaus 2, tel. (+370) 5 251 44 91.Netherlands A-2, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 5 269 00 72.Norway A-3, K. Kalinausko 24 (3rd floor), tel. (+370) 5 261 00 00.Philippines (Consulate) A-2, Jogailos 4 (B corps), tel. (+370) 5 212 00 33.Poland J-2, Smėlio 22a, tel. (+370) 5 270 90 01.Portugal B-2, Gedimino 5, tel. (+370) 5 262 05 11.Romania G-4, A. Vivulskio 19, tel. (+370) 5 231 05 57.Russia F-3, Latvių 53/54, tel. (+370) 5 272 17 63.Spain G-4, Algirdo 4, tel. (+370) 5 231 39 61.Sweden C-4, Didžioji 16, tel. (+370) 5 268 50 10.Thailand (Consulate) A-2, Jogailos 9/1, tel. (+370) 5 268 18 92.Turkey C-4, Didžioji 37, tel. (+370) 5 264 95 70.UK J-3, Antakalnio 2, tel. (+370) 5 246 29 00.Ukraine A-3, Teatro 4, tel. (+370) 5 212 15 36.USA G-4, Akmenų 6, tel. (+370) 5 266 55 00.Vatican H-4, T. Kosciuškos 28, tel. (+370) 5 212 36 96.

Freight forwardingDSV Transport Stasylų 21, tel. (+370) 5 268 62 00.

InterpretersBaltijos Vertimai D-2, Bernardinų 9-4, tel. (+370) 5 212 29 24.

LawyersSorainen ir Partneriai A-2, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 5 268 50 40.

Lithuanian officialsDepartment of Customs (Muitinės departamen-tas) H-3, A. Jakšto 1/25, tel. (+370) 5 261 30 27.Government (LR Vyriausybė) B-1, Gedimino 11, tel. (+370) 5 266 37 11.Ministry of Foreign Affairs (LR Užsienio Reikalų Ministerija) G-3, A. Tumo-Vaižganto 2, tel. (+370) 5 236 24 44.Municipality (Savivaldybė) B-1, Konstitucijos 3, tel. (+370) 5 211 20 00.Parliament (LR Seimas) G-3, Gedimino 53, tel. (+370) 5 239 60 60.President’s Office (LR Prezidento Rūmai) C-2, S. Daukanto 3, tel. (+370) 5 266 41 54.

NotariesNotary Bureau 3 C-4, Rūdninkų 8, tel. (+370) 5 262 01 17.

Office rentalStart Office A-2, Jogailos 4, Business Centre 2000, tel. (+370) 5 269 00 69.

�� street register


All of the venues in this guidebook marked with an Old Town symbol (J) are featured as such because even if they’re not in Old Town per se, they are at least on the map opposite which we call Old Town. Confused? Don’t be.

Aguonų A-4/6A. Jakšto A-1Alkūnės D-6Arklių C-4/5Arsenalo C/D-1A. Smetonos A-1/2A. Strazdelio D-5A. Stulginskio A-2/1Ašmenos B-4Augustijonų C-4Aukštaičių D-4Aušros Vartų C-5/6A. Volano D-3Bazilijonų C/D-5Beatričės A1Benediktinių B-3Bernardinų C-2/D-3Bokšto C-3/D-5B. Radvilaitės C/D-2Didžioji C-3/4

Dominikonų B/C-3Dysnos B-4Etmonų C-4Gaono C-3Gedimino A-1/D-2Geležinkelio C-6Gėlių B-5Islandijos A-2Išganytojo C/D-3J. Basanavičiaus A-3/4J. Jablonskio A-5/6J. Lelevelio A/B-1Jogailos A-1/2Karmelitų C-4/5Kaštonų A1Kauno A/B-6Kėdainių A/B-4K. Griniaus A-2K. Kalinausko A-3Klaipėdos A/B-3Kruopų B-5K. Sirvydo B-1K. Škirpos D-1/2Kūdrų D-4K. Vanagėlio D-5Labdarių B-2Lapų C-5/6Latako C/D-3Liejyklos B-2/3Liepkalnio D-6Ligoninės B-4/5Literatų C/D-3Lydos B-4

L. Stuokos-Gucevičiaus B/C-2M. Antokolskio C-3/4Maironio D-2/4Malūnų D-3M. Daukšos D-5Mėsinių B-5/C-4Mindaugo A-4/6Naručio D-6Naugarduko A-4/5Odminių B-2Palangos A-3Pamėnkalnio A-2Pasažo C-5Paupio D-3Pelesos C/D-6Pilies C-2/3Plačioji B-5Pranciškonų B-3/4Punsko A-6Pylimo A-2/C-6Radvilų B-1Raugyklos A-6/B-5Rožių A-3/2Rusų C/D-3Rūdninkų B-5/C-4Savičiaus C-4Seinų B/C-6Sodų B-5/6S. Skapo C-2Stiklių C-3/4Stoties B-6Subačiaus C/D-5

Šaltinių A/B-5Šermukšnių A1Šiaulių B-4Šiltadaržio D-2Švarco C-3Šventaragio C-2Šv. Dvasios D-5Šv. Ignoto B-3Šv. Jono C-3Šv. Kazimiero C/D-4Šv. Mikalojaus B-4Šv. Mykolo C/D-3Šv. Stepono A-6/B-5Teatro A-3Tilto B-1/C-2Totorių B-2/3Trakų A-4/B-3Turgelių D-6T. Vrublevskio C-1Universiteto C-2/3Užupio D-3Vienuolio A1Vilniaus B-1/3Vingrių A/B-4Visų Šventųjų B/C-5Vokiečių B-3/C-4V. Šopeno B-6Žemaitijos B-4Žiupronių D-5Ž. Liauksmino B-1/C-2Žydų B-4/C-3Žygimantų B/C-1

�2 index


Sriubos Namai 35St. Anne's Church 52St. Casimir's Church 52St. Catherine's Church 13St. Nicholas' Church 52St. Theresa's Church 52Star 1 Airlines 61Stasys Apartments 21Steak House Hazienda 30Stebuklas 54Stikliai 25Stiklių Dvaras 21Stomatologijos Gydykla 73Stopkė 40Sts. Johns' Church 52Sts. Peter & Paul's Church 52Sue's Indian Raja 29Sura 35Sushi Express 34Sushi House 34Šv. Jono Street Gallery 14TaDas 14Tappo D'oro 40Taškas 63Tautodailininko Dirbtuvė 12TELE 2 63Television Tower 54The Beautiful Land Of Nevermind 61Thelonious 68The Notebook Shop 67Tores 32Town Hall 54Tres Mexicanos 35Trolleybuses 59Tsemach Shabad 58Tuskulėnai Peace Park Memorial Complex 48Tymo Turgus 64Ūkio Banko Teatro Arena 13Universiteto Vaistinė 74UTair 61Užupio Galerija 12Užupio Kalvystės Galerija - Muziejus 12Užupio Kavinė 27Užupio Meno Inkubatorius 14Užupio Picerija 28Užupis Angel 55Užupis Old Jewish Cemetery 58V. Pūro Odontologijos Klinika 73Vaga 67Vartai 14Vasaros Terasa 38VCUP 64Vdnet 70Veloklinika.lt 61Veranda 32Verslo Parkas Gariūnai 64Videoplanet 70Vilna Shul-hoyf 58Vilniaus Fotografijos Galerija 14Vilnius Antiques Centre 66Vilnius Apartments 21Vilnius City Camping 21Vilnius City Tour 50Vilnius Congress Hall 13Vilnius Heart Surgery Centre 74Vilnius International Airport 60Vilnius Old Town Theatre 15Vilnius Picture Gallery 48Vilnius Small State Theatre 15Vilnius Tourist Information 47Vilnius University 54Vilnius University Emergency Hospital 73Vilnius Yiddish Institute 58Vilnius Youth Tourist Centre 21Vingio Parkas 54Vinita 70Vision Express 74Visit Lithuania 61Visus Plenus 76Vokiečių Vaistinė 74Wall Street 24Woo 40Yurga 68Žemaičiai 23Žemaitė 55Znad Wilii 14Zoe's Bar & Grill 33

National Museum 48National Youth Theatre 15Neringa 31New York 45Nordic Council of Ministers Office 13Norwegian Air Shuttle 61Novotel Vilnius 18Nuad Thai 72Odontika 73OKT/ Vilnius City Theatre 15Old Town Strip Club 45Omnitel 63Ona 66Operos Vaistinė 74Optometrijos Centras 74Orthodox Church of St. Paraskeva 51Orthodox Church of the Holy Spirit 51Ozas 64Ozo Kino Salė 13Pabo Latino 39Pacha 39Panorama 64Parex 70Pasaka 13Paukščių Takas 27Paupio Namai 20Pekinas 24Piano.lt 13Planetarium 54Plieno Paukštis 37Pogo 37Poland Institute 13Pomodoro 28Pramogų Arena 13Presidential Palace 54Prie Angelo 32Prie Katedros 31Prie Parlamento 37Pronto 24Prospekto Galerija 14Prosport 68Radisson Blu Astorija 16, 74Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva 18Raktinė 70Ramada Hotel & Suites Vilnius 16Rasos Cemetery 56Reformed Evangelical Church 51Rega 74Registry 71Relais & Chateaux Stikliai 17Rimas 60Rinno 19Riverside 31Rojaus Arka 23Romain Gary 58Rūdninkų Vartai 20Russian Cultural Centre 13Rūta 67Saint Germain 40Sąjūdis Museum 48Sala Thai 72Salento DiscoPub 40Šarūnas 18SAS 61Satta 40Saulės Namai 20Savas Kampas 37Scandic Neringa 18Šeimos Medicinos Centras 74Senamiesčio Gidas 61Senamiesčio Veterinarijos klinika 70Shakespeare Boutique Hotel 18Siemens Arena 13Signatories' House 48Sixt 60Skalbiu Sau 70Skalvija 13Skin and Laser Surgery Center 74Skonio Studija 67Skyways 61ŠMC 37Šnekutis 40Sofa Travel 61Soho 45Soprano 28Sportas ir Mada 68

Holy Trinity Church & Basilian Gate 51Hotel Tilto 19Humanitas 67Hyper Rimi 64iDeal Solution 67Idzumi Spa 72IKI Commercial Centre 64Ikiukas 67Impress-Teva 72In Day 35Information Bureau 71International Women's Association 72In Vino 40In Your Pocket 72Italian Cultural Institute 13Itališka Kepykla 27Jalta 30Japanese Information & Cultural Centre 13Jaunimo Perspektyva 71Jewish Cemetery 58Jewish Community of Lithuania 57Joglė 70Jonas Bugailiškis Art Studio 12Kaleva Travel 61Kalvarijų 1 30Karaite & Tatar Cemetery 56Kaukazo Belaisvė 27Keisti Ženklai 23Kelvita 61Kenesa 53Kino Studija 70Klinika 36Komisas 66Krantas Travel 61La Bohème 40Labuki 34Laisvės Turas 68Lakštingala 31La Pergola 31La Provence 25Lazdynų Pelėda 55Lėlė Puppet Theatre 14Light Bar Lounge 40Linen & Amber Studio 68Lino Namai 68Literatų Gatvė 53Lithuanian AIDS Centre 73Lithuanian Energy Museum 47Lithuanian Film Centre 13Lithuanian Music & Theatre Academy 13Lithuanian National Drama Theatre 14Lithuanian National Opera & Ballet Theatre 14Lithuanian National Philharmonic 13Lithuanian Russian Drama Theatre 15Lithuanian State Historical Archives 71Lithuanian Theatre, Music & Cinema Museum 47Lithuania Tribune 72Lokys 23London Hair Design Studio 70M. K. Čiurlionis' House 53Mabre Residence 18Mano Lietuviški Namai 68Manufaktūra Jūratė 12Map of the Ghetto 58Marceliukės Klėtis 23Marija and Jurgis Šlapeliai Museum 47Marks & Spencer 67Markus ir Ko 30Mažasis Gintaro Muziejus 66Medical Diagnostic Centre 74Medicine General Private Clinics 74Medininkai 31Meno Niša 12Mindaugas 55Minibuses 59Mint Vinetu 67Miyako 34Molio Laumė 12Muzikos Bomba 68Naručio Restoranas 25Narutis 16, 74

Choral Synagogue 57Church Heritage Museum 46Church of Sts. Michael & Constantine 49Church of the Apparition of the Holy Mother of God 49Church of the Holy Cross 50Church of the Holy Mother of God 50Church of the Holy Spirit 50Čili Kaimas 22Čili Pica 28Čingischanas 24City Gate 19Coffee Inn 32Collectors' Club 64Collegium 63Contemporary Arts Centre 14Cozy 29Czech Airlines 61Da Antonio I 33Daiktų Viešbutis 66Danclean 70Danish Cultural Institute 13Dawn Gate 53Delmonas 12Didžioji Kinija 24DnB Nord 76Dolls 45Domino Theatre 14DOMM 24Domus Maria 19Double Coffee 32Dr. Br. Sidaravičius 73Dvaras 17Dviratis Tau 68East Island Exotic 71East Island SPA Centre 72Eat East 24Ecotel Vilnius 20El Gaucho Sano 23Eliksyras 70Escape (Cleopatra) 45Escape (Mirage) 45Estonian Air 61Eugenijus Apartments 21Eurolines Lux Express 60Europa 64Europa City Vilnius 19Europa Royale Vilnius 17Europcar 60Evangelical Lutheran Church 50Fertility Centre 73Fertility Clinic 73Filaretai 20Finnair 61Fiorentino 33Flagman 64Fortas 36Forto Dvaras 22Forum Cinemas Vingis 12Foto Fabrikas 68Fotoservisas 68Franki Terasa 38Franko 70Frank Zappa 55French Bookshop Pegasas 66French Cultural Centre 13Gediminas Castle & Museum 46Gedimino 9 64Gedimino Vaistinė 74Genocide Victim's Museum 46Genocide Victims' Museum 46Gidenta 73Gintraka 68Globe 36Go! Sushi 34Goethe Institute 13Gorky 36Graf Zeppelin 22Grand Duke Gediminas 55Green Bridge 53Grill Brazil 24Gringo 36Grotthuss 17Gyvo Alaus Krautuvėlė 67Havana Social Club 39Hertz 60Hill of Three Crosses 53Holiday Inn 18Holocaust in the Baltics 58Holocaust Museum 57

Борщ! 35AAA Mano Liza 18Academy 14Actus Magnus 14Adria 27Aer Lingus 61Aeroflot 61Aeroservisas 61Aerosvit 61A Hostel 20Air Baltic 61A ir B Mackevičių Odontologijos Klinika 73Aistra 68Aistros Massage 45AJ Šokoladas 67Akademinė Knyga 66Akropolis 64Alexa 18Algirdas City Hotels 18Amatininkų Užeiga 36Amatų Gildija 12Amber 66Amber Museum-Gallery 46, 66Amberton Hotel (Klaipėda) 17Ameda 20America Center 13American International School of Vilnius 70Antakalnis Cemetery 56Apia 19Applied Art Museum 46Archaeology Museum 46Artis Centrum Hotels 17Arts Printing House 14Atrium 17Auksinis Trikampis 21Aukso Avis 68Aušlavis 74Austrian Airlines 61Avalynės Taisykla 70Ayurvedic SPA Centre Shanti 71Azia Spa 71Baltic-American Clinic 73Baltic Reports 72Baltic Times 72Baltijos Vertimai 76Balzac 26Bambalynė 36Banzai 36Baraka 29Barbacan Apartments 21BBC World Service 72Beata Amber 66Beauty Therapy and Surgery Clinic 73Bermudai 36Bernardine Cemetery 56Bernardine Church & Monastery 49Biosala 67Bistro 18 29Bitė 63Bitinėlis 66Blusynė 26BNS 72Boom Boom Opus 3 38Brandy Lounge 36Brasserie de Verres en Vers 26British Council 13Brodvėjus 39Brussels Airlines 61Budget 60Bunte Gans 28Buses 59Būsi Trečias 40Bus Station 60By train 6CAC Reading Room 71California Tapas & Wine 32Castle & Trakai History Museum 55Cathedral-Basilica of St. Stanislaus & St. Ladislaus 48Central Post Office 63Centre for Tolerance 57Centre of Europe 53Centro Kubas - Angel 19Centrum Uniquestay Hotel 19Chabad Lubavitch Centre 57Chaplin Terasa 38Chillout 22Chiune Sugihara 58

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