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For more on travel in Slovenia see slovenia.inyourpocket.com IZOLA PIRAN portorož Piran is to the Adriatic what Bled is to the Alps and Slovenia as a whole is to Central Europe: tiny, friendly and overwhelmingly picturesque. It’s a town that is almost impossible not to fall in love with on your first visit, and if you only have time for a day trip you’ll likely want to make plans to return. We also only half-jokingly added “family residence in Piran - preferably renovated” to our list of things we now look for in potential significant others, but that’s only because we’re superficial. Despite it’s modest size Piran is awash in superlatives. It boasts what is undeniably the country’s finest square, the 19th century Tartinijev Trg named after the com- poser Giuseppe Tartini, and what has to be one of the most dramatically situated churches anywhere in Europe, St George Cathedral and its spectacular bell tower perched on the hill overlooking the town and the sea. In addition, its numerous restaurants not only turn out some of the best seafood we’ve ever eaten but also serve it in some equally unforgettable settings. Metre for metre this petite Venetian port can hold its own against anyone, including the imperial capital just over the horizon that was responsible for much of its for- tune. In fact Piran does have the same kind of open-air museum feel to it as Venice, only on a much much smaller scale (and without the €6 espressos, stagnant lagoon smell, periodic flooding and constant worry of sinking into the sea). However, once you venture from the heavily trafficked waterfront and central square down the nar- row backstreets, the crumbling façades of ancient villas, freshly-laundered clothes hanging from windows overhead and the odd overgrown garden let you know that Piran should not be mistaken for some manufactured cultural Disneyland - the charms are real and, yes, people do actually live here. Where to stay Max Korpusa 26, tel. (+386) 5673 34 76/(+386) 41 69 29 28, info@maxpi- ran.com, www.maxpiran.com. Up the hill from Tartini Square, this small boutique hotel is housed in a beautiful 300 year old house and is one of our favourite places to stay on the coast, although if you’re a light sleeper the over-active bells at the cathedral next door may prove bothersome. Max, the owner and apparently sole employee, is a friendly old bulldog and ardent Liverpool supporter who’ll be glad to carry your luggage up the narrow stairs or talk your ear off over coffee, but we’ve also heard rumours that he can have a bit of bark if you interrupt his afternoon siesta. Q 6 rooms (doubles €60-70). PJA hhh Miracolo di Mare Tomšičeva 23, tel. (+386) 59 21 76 60/(+386) 51 44 55 11, [email protected], miracolodimare.si/en/. This highly recommended bed and breakfast is at the south end of town only a couple streets away from where the intercity buses drop off. The rooms are simple but tastefully decorated and were all completely renovated in 2008, however, some are larger than others so it might be a good idea to ask what’s available if yours seems a bit on the small side. Breakfast is served out back in a pleasant courtyard area, and the incredibly friendly owner can arrange all kinds of excursions and activities. Q 12 rooms (singles €50-55, doubles €60-70). PJAB hhh Alibi B11/B14 A-1, Bonifacijeva 11, tel. (+386) 31 363 666, info@alibi. si, www.alibi.si. Listed as two separate locations (as with all Alibi hostels the names are derived from the street addresses) but practically across the street from one another with reception at B11, they’re at the opposite end of town from where the buses drop off so be ready for an impromptu sightseeing tour on your way there. Recent renovations have left them looking great and thankfully seem to have taken care of earlier dampness and mould problems. Rooms on the top floors of each building have their own terraces, and all rooms at B14 are en suite. Q 21 rooms (doubles €40-50, quads €60-80). PJNW Where to eat Galeb A-1, Pusterla 5, tel. (+386) 5673 32 25. In the north of town just around the corner from the pathway leading up to St George Cathedral, this small family-run affair is another great option for superb home-made seafood dishes. Savo Ristič handles things in the kitchen, while his wife Mija stays out front making guests feel at home as they crowd around a half dozen cosy tables. Highly recommended for a more intimate dining experience. QOpen 11:00 - 16:00; 18:00-23:00. (€5-19). JAG Ivo A-1, Gregorčičeva 31, tel. (+386) 5673 22 33. This place came highly recommended by some of our Slovene friends who know a thing or two about qual- ity cuisine, and we can’t say that we were disappointed. It may look a little worse for wear than some of the other places you pass along the promenade, but every item on our reasonably-priced combo platter was cooked to perfection. Would we be able to tell it apart from the competition in a blind taste test? It’s highly unlikely we’ll ever have to. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (€6-24). PJAB portorož The poetically named Portorož, or Port of Roses, is home to one of the largest modern marinas on the Adriatic and is the undisputed king of Slovenia’s coastal tourism trade. Although it lacks the Venetian old towns that can be found else where along the coast, its numerous hotels, restau- rants, conference centres, spas and casinos make it a popular destination for both foreigners and Slovenes, and an excellent base for day trips and excursions farther afield. Where to stay Kempinski Palace Portorož D-3, Obala 45, tel. (+386) 5692 70 00/ (+386) 5692 79 50, [email protected], www.kempin- ski-portoroz.com. This grandest of residences dominates Obala Street and the entire Piran Bay with its majestic architecture and refined gardens. All the comforts of a 5 star superior hotel can be found at the Palace, and at a reasonable price for the quality. When you want to escape for a moment of peace, the tranquil gardens at the rear of the hotel offer are a shady retreat rom the busy Obala entrance. Q 164 rooms, 17 suites (singles €235-310, doubles €285-360, suites €900- 2150). PTJHAUILEBKXCW hhhhh Marko D-3, Obala 28, tel. (+386) 5617 40 00, fax (+386) 5617 40 11, [email protected], www.hotel-marko.com. This small but high-quality hotel boasts beautiful rooms which all have balconies attached, some facing toward the beach, others facing to the back for more quiet. It also has a beau- tiful front garden for relaxing. As this small unique hotel only has 48 rooms, they fill up fast during the high season with many returning visitors. Q 48 rooms (doubles €100-120, suites €130-160). PTHAR6UGKXW hhhh Penzion Forma Viva Seča 159, tel. (+386) 40 369 003, fax (+386) 5677 04 66, [email protected], www.formaviva-portoroz.si. If you would prefer to avoid the resort town atmosphere of the city’s crowded beachside area, but still want easy access to its restaurants and nightlife, this 23 room guest house in the leafy hills just south of Marina Portorož is a great option. With views towards the strangely exotic-looking Sečovlje salt pans, its pink-walled palm-lined courtyard has a distinctly tropical feel to it. The hotel is both pet and family-friendly, and the staff can arrange boat trips and recommend pleasant walks through the surrounding countryside Q €35-85. T6LG hh Where to eat Ondina E-3, Obala 16, tel. (+386) 5674 20 72, www.ondina.si. This res- taurant serves a wide range of typical seafood options in its Italian trattoria-style environment, but there are also meat and pasta options if you’re not in the mood for fish. While it makes great aims at being classy the constant flow of traffic outside their doors works against that effort; head to the side room for a bit more intimacy. Not very vegetarian friendly. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. (€9-20). TA6UVEGBXS Staro Sidro E-3, Obala 55, tel./fax (+386) 5674 50 74, starosidro@siol. net. Walking up the steps of the old and abandoned Villa San Marco and heading in the direction of Staro Sidro, can feel like going into a time warp. The beautiful but decaying old restaurant seems to be frozen in another, simple time. Some of the staff seem to be frozen there right along with it, but it nonetheles offers a charming get away from the MTV beach madness. Its standard fare of sea food and meat dishes are reasonably priced and offered with a lengthy list of local wines. If you’re looking for an experience of classic old Portorož, this is your destination. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (€7-21). PTA6GBXS Nightlife Kanela Bar D-3, Obala 14, tel. (+386) 5 674 61 81, www.kanelabar.com. A fabulous rock n’ roll hangout during the summer time, day and night. The bar is actually so small you can barely fit more than 10 people inside at any given mo- ment, but most prefer the pleasure ofthe beach directly in front of the amongst the tall palm trees where the music is still heard loud and clear. Live rock concerts are frequent and the atmosphere surely heats up in the late hours with plenty of singing and dancing: a beach party in the making! QOpen 09:00 - 03:00. 6UEGBX Paprika E-4, Obala 20a, tel. (+386) 5 674 82 64/(+386) 30 691 608, [email protected], www.paprika.si. A cafe during the day, the uber-modern interior only hints at the debaucherous disco scene that the place transforms Wine Bars Klet Cantina A-1, Prvomajski Trg, tel. (+386) 5673 32 75. For a healthy dose of old world charm there’s nowhere better than this tiny wine bar hidden be- neath a canopy of grape vines on the 1st of May Square. This place has so much character you’ll wish you could bottle some up and smuggle it home in your hand baggage. Light meat and cheese plates are available if you linger long enough to drink up an appetite. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (€5-8). JB What to see 1st of May Square (Prvomajski Trg) A-1, . The administrative centre of Piran until the 13th century, these days it stands in stark contrast to the glistening Tartinijev Trg only a couple hundred metres away: scruffy and an unkempt with the odd clump of grass poking up between stones and more than one façade unin- tentionally revealing brick walls beneath crumbling layers of paint, in other words, perfect. In addition to several restaurants, art galleries and a great little wine bar, a large stone cistern elevates nearly half the square a metre off the ground and serves as a stage for various music, dance and theatre performances during the summer. Flanking the stairs leading up to the now dormant wells are two allegorical statues representing Law and Justice, both of which are obligingly photogenic. Tartini Square (Tartinijev Trg) A-1, . Already arguably the most impressive squares in Slovenia, all debate was put to rest last year when it was transformed into a pedestrian only zone with outdoor cafés taking the place of parked cars - a fact that has yet to be reflected on most internet sites, including Google Maps. Fronted by two large neo-Renaissance buildings on one side and a mélange of smaller buildings of varying architectural styles on the other, the square itself is younger than almost all of them, having been part of Piran’s harbour until it was filled in in 1884. The square’s inner oval was given its distinctive shape when it served as the terminus for an electric railway that connected Piran to Portorož and Lucija until 1953, while its white marble surface was something of a posthumous gift to the late Tartini in 1992 on what would have been his 300th birthday. St George Cathedral B-1, Adamičeva 6. Watching over the town and vis- ible from nearly every open space is the massive cathedral dedicated to Piran’s patron saint, the dragon slaying young knight from Capadoccia, George. Legend has it that towards the end of the 16th century the cathedral fell into a state of disrepair, which was so troubling that the Saint George himself made an appear- ance in order to motivate the citizenry to undertake the necessary renovations, and even blinded a sceptical mayor to show he meant business. True or not, the cathedral saw some major renovations shortly thereafter, including the addition of a nearly 50m bell tower, which is a scale copy of the San Marco Campanile in Venice. Throw in some stunning views of both the city and the sea and you have the makings for one of the most impressive churches in Slovenia. Town Gallery Piran A-1, Tartinijev Trg 3, tel. (+386) 5671 20 80, info@ obalne-galerije.si, www.obalne-galerije.si. Above Café Tartini on the main square, Piran’s most important art space hosts a range of exhibitions throughout the year including the popular Ex-Tempore of Piran, which brings together upwards of 500 artists from Central and Eastern Europe annually. Unfortunately, their web- site is a little light on information - in English or otherwise - so it’s probably best to enquire about upcoming exhibitions at the nearby tourist centre or via email. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. PIRAN into during the evening with themed nights ranging from latin to house music. The nights are replete with scantily clad go-godancers and a rotating roster of local and travelling DJs. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00. Admission free. PAULEG BXW Alaya Cocktail Bar E-4, Obala 22, tel. (+386) 51 33 22 33/(+386) 31 606 101, [email protected], www.alaya.si. A Caribbean, tropically decorated beach bar which serves up cocktails of all colours of the rainbow. A worthy place for a stop over during a night out with friends and on some nights a beach party more than likely can fire up with occasional live music or a DJ. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. TA6ULEBXSW What to see Sečovlje Saline Nature Park Tel. (+386) 5672 13 30, [email protected], www.kpss.si. Hundreds of years ago, salt wasa commodity almost as valuable as gold and rulers fought to acquire and controlits means of collection. Sečovlje was one such rarified area and today it is preserved as a park with a visitors’ center and museum. A fascinating piece of history, the salt pans are not only an interesting public park, they are also awell-preserved natural habitat for birds. The trek out to the pans is an interesting one but make sure to pack your insect repellant, not all of the inhabitants here are friendly. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Admission: €3 adults; €2 students, seniors; free for children under age six. Shopping Max Mara Kempinski D-3, Obala 45, tel. (+386) 5 907 74 90/(+386) 31 667 223, [email protected], www.morris.si. Located in the luxurious Kempinski Palace Hotel, this well-known Italian fashion brand has been selling designer- quality apparel for over fifty years. The focus of the current collection is on sexy urban clothes for confident sophisticated women. Of course elegant Italian-made couture doesn’t come cheap, so you might want to start thinking now about how you can claim that must-have summer dress as a business expense. Q by prior arrangement on GSM 031 667 223 Studio La Perla D-3, Obala 33, tel. (+386) 5674 01 86, [email protected], www.morris.si. This small boutique in the Life Class Resort complex has you covered if you’ve forgotten to pack your swimsuit or would just like to treat yourself to something a little nicer before hitting the beach. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Still an easygoing fishing village at heart, Izola doesn’t get nearly as much love as some of Slovenia’s other coastal towns and is often overlooked by tourists racing by on their way to Piran for a day trip. However, as far as we’re concerned it’s a beautiful little Venetian port town with enough amenities to keep you comfortable, windy old streets to wander and sights to see to make it a worthwhile destination in its own right. Where to stay Marina H-6/7, Veliki Trg 11, tel. (+386) 56 60 41 00, fax (+386) 56 60 44 10, [email protected], www.hotelmarina.si. Aside from private apartments, the Marina is pretty much your only option if you want to stay right in the centre of the old town, luckily it’s also one of the best. Perched right above the fishing port, it’s perfectly situated to soak up all of Izola’s rich history. The rooms are not huge but they’re all incredibly comfortable and well-equipped, and about half have balconies with sea views - although they come at a significant premium. The multi-lingual staff is friendly and helpful, especially when it comes to making travel arrangements, suggesting excur- sions or answering random questions. Q 52 rooms (singles €59-115, doubles €79-144, suites €135-261). hhh San Simon Morova 6a, tel. (+386) 5660 31 00, fax (+386) 5641 84 02, [email protected], www.sansimon.si. Owned by the same group that operates that massive St Barnardin complex in nearby Portorož, the San Simon resort is a comparatively modest affair with some 200 three- and four-star rooms contained in two separate hotels and five smaller buildings that are befitting of Izola’s more laid back appeal. Aside from accommodation the complex’s green sloping grounds include a restaurant, tennis courts, a private beach, a newly built wellness centre and spa. Q PTLKD hhhh Where to eat Gušt I-8, Drevored 1 Maja 5, tel. (+386) 41 67 59 53/(+386) 41 65 03 33, [email protected]. One of several places within a block of each other on Drevored 1. Maja (or The 1st of May Avenue), Gušt always seems to have the fewest empty seats on its long terrace, and for good reason. Its thick menu has a bit of everything, but for our money the brick oven pizzas are probably the best in town. For those staying farther afield they also deliver to most nearby areas. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (€4.5-19). JAVBS Parangal H-7, Sončno Nabrežje 20, tel. (+386) 5641 74 40/(+386) 41 67 38 46, [email protected]. Offers all kinds of meats, pastas, pizzas and traditional Istrian cuisine, but don’t be fooled - this is a place you come to for one reason only: seafood. Not the cheapest option in town, but that shouldn’t come as a surprise given its location and reputation. There’s also a large courtyard which has something of a tropical flavour to it and is a good place for a drink with or without food. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (€7-24). TJABS Sidro H-7, Sončno nabrežje 24, tel. (+386) 5641 47 11, [email protected]. There’s no better place in Izola to dine - especially at sunset - than in Sidro’s outdoor seating area, which is actually across the street from the restaurant right on the edge of the port. Although the menu features some borderline exotic dishes, such as sea snails with polenta, we played it safe and went with the seafood risotto, but from the look of thing you can’t go wrong. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (€6.5-21). PJABS Nightlife Ambasada Gavioli Industrijska 10, www.ambasadagavioli.net. Designed by Italian architect Gianni Gavioli, who’s something of a legend in the clubbing world, this massive 1600 square metre complex can comfortably fit over 2500 people and is one of the region’s top destinations for serious club goers. The building itself is a hodgepodge of themes, materials and styles but maintains something of a warm Mediterranean vibe throughout. Events are usually only held once or twice a month at most, but could be worth planning your trip around if you’re a big fan of electronic music. PALE Wine Bar Manzioli H-7, Manziolijev Trg 5, tel. (+386) 5616 21 37, bruno. [email protected]. Operated by the Zaro family, who have called Izola home for around 700 years, the bar occupies the ground floor of a former palace on the old town’s most picturesque square. It’s one of our favourite spots on the entire coast for a drink, and the best place in Izola to sample quality local wines. If you’re there on a Saturday afternoon you’re also likely to catch at least one wedding ceremony at the church opposite. QOpen , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun 8:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 8:00 - 01:00. JAB What to see Besenghi degli Ughi Palace J-6, Gregorčičeva 76, tel. (+386) 5662 67 00/(+386) 040 631 034. Considered by many to be the finest building in Izola, it has sadly seen better days and from the looks of things now serves as a nightly hang out for the beer-swilling local youth. Although if you can imagine it without the grafitti and low hanging power lines it gives you some idea of the city’s past glory. By day it currently serves as Izola’s music school, which means visitors can take a look around while lessons are taking place. Church of St Mary of Haliaetum H-7, Manziolijev Trg. The oldest church in Izola does its part to help make Manziolijev Trg one of the most aesthetically pleasing places in town. Other than the summer, it’s not often open to the pub- lic, but if you settle in for a drink at the nearby wine bar on any given Saturday afternoon you’ll likely be able to catch a wedding ceremony or two. Parenzana Museum I-7, Alme Vivoda 3, [email protected]. In 1902 the Parenzana railway line was built connecting Trieste with Poreč (or Parenzo in Italian, hence the name) 123 kilometres to the south in present-day Croatia. Although it was only in operation until 1935 it garnered quite a reputation for the beautiful scenery along the route, much of which serves as a footpath and cycling road today. Dedicated to preserving the history of the short-lived line, this tiny museum opened its doors in 2000. It also houses an impres- sive model train collection that is probably a must see attraction for anyone interested in such things. It’s a good idea to ask for directions and confirm its working hours at the tourist office, since we had a bit of trouble tracking it down only to find that it had closed early. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission: €2.10/1.50 for adults/children. St Maurus Church H/I- 6, Trg Svetega Mavra. Sitting atop Izola’s modest high point is the parish church of the town’s patron saint, who is also responsible for watching over the Azores, shoemakers, coppersmiths and the disabled. The present church was originally built by the Venetians in 1547, with the bell tower, which bears some resemblance to its larger predecessor in St Mark’s Square in Venice, coming some forty years later. The church last saw major renovations at the end of the 19th century and still holds regular services. IZOLA Piran’s picturesque Tartini Square is one of Slovenia’s most impressive public spaces The Forma Viva sculpture garden in the hills south of Portorož is a must-see sight for art-lovers Tourist information I-8, Sončno nabrežje 4, tel. (+386) 5640 10 50, fax (+386) 5 640 10 52, [email protected], www.izola.eu. Q July, August: every day 09:00 - 20:00 . June, September: 09:00 - 19:00, Sunday 09:00 - 17:00 . October - May: 09:00 - 17:00, Sunday closed Tourist information SLOVENIA FOR YOUTH Izola’s fine cultural centre

Koper In Your Pocket

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Slovenia's cost in one handy guide, the only guide to Portoroz, Izola, Koper and Piran you will ever need.

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Page 1: Koper In Your Pocket

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IzolaPIran portorožPiran is to the Adriatic what Bled is to the Alps and Slovenia as a whole is to Central Europe: tiny, friendly and overwhelmingly picturesque. It’s a town that is almost impossible not to fall in love with on your first visit, and if you only have time for a day trip you’ll likely want to make plans to return. We also only half-jokingly added “family residence in Piran - preferably renovated” to our list of things we now look for in potential significant others, but that’s only because we’re superficial.

Despite it’s modest size Piran is awash in superlatives. It boasts what is undeniably the country’s finest square, the 19th century Tartinijev Trg named after the com-poser Giuseppe Tartini, and what has to be one of the most dramatically situated churches anywhere in Europe, St George Cathedral and its spectacular bell tower perched on the hill overlooking the town and the sea. In addition, its numerous restaurants not only turn out some of the best seafood we’ve ever eaten but also serve it in some equally unforgettable settings.

Metre for metre this petite Venetian port can hold its own against anyone, including the imperial capital just over the horizon that was responsible for much of its for-tune. In fact Piran does have the same kind of open-air museum feel to it as Venice, only on a much much smaller scale (and without the €6 espressos, stagnant lagoon smell, periodic flooding and constant worry of sinking into the sea). However, once you venture from the heavily trafficked waterfront and central square down the nar-row backstreets, the crumbling façades of ancient villas, freshly-laundered clothes hanging from windows overhead and the odd overgrown garden let you know that Piran should not be mistaken for some manufactured cultural Disneyland - the charms are real and, yes, people do actually live here.

Where to stayMax Korpusa 26, tel. (+386) 5673 34 76/(+386) 41 69 29 28, [email protected], www.maxpiran.com. Up the hill from Tartini Square, this small boutique hotel is housed in a beautiful 300 year old house and is one of our favourite places to stay on the coast, although if you’re a light sleeper the over-active bells at the cathedral next door may prove bothersome. Max, the owner and apparently sole employee, is a friendly old bulldog and ardent Liverpool supporter who’ll be glad to carry your luggage up the narrow stairs or talk your ear off over coffee, but we’ve also heard rumours that he can have a bit of bark if you interrupt his afternoon siesta. Q 6 rooms (doubles €60-70). PJA hhh

Miracolo di Mare Tomšičeva 23, tel. (+386) 59 21 76 60/(+386) 51 44 55 11, [email protected], miracolodimare.si/en/. This highly recommended bed and breakfast is at the south end of town only a couple streets away from where the intercity buses drop off. The rooms are simple but tastefully decorated and were all completely renovated in 2008, however, some are larger than others so it might be a good idea to ask what’s available if yours seems a bit on the small side. Breakfast is served out back in a pleasant courtyard area, and the incredibly friendly owner can arrange all kinds of excursions and activities. Q 12 rooms (singles €50-55, doubles €60-70). PJAB hhh

Alibi B11/B14 A-1, Bonifacijeva 11, tel. (+386) 31 363 666, [email protected], www.alibi.si. Listed as two separate locations (as with all Alibi hostels the names are derived from the street addresses) but practically across the street from one another with reception at B11, they’re at the opposite end of town from where the buses drop off so be ready for an impromptu sightseeing tour on your way there. Recent renovations have left them looking great and thankfully seem to have taken care of earlier dampness and mould problems. Rooms on the top floors of each building have their own terraces, and all rooms at B14 are en suite. Q 21 rooms (doubles €40-50, quads €60-80). PJNW

Where to eatGaleb A-1, Pusterla 5, tel. (+386) 5673 32 25. In the north of town just around the corner from the pathway leading up to St George Cathedral, this small family-run affair is another great option for superb home-made seafood dishes. Savo Ristič handles things in the kitchen, while his wife Mija stays out front making guests feel at home as they crowd around a half dozen cosy tables. Highly recommended for a more intimate dining experience. QOpen 11:00 - 16:00; 18:00-23:00. (€5-19). JAG

Ivo A-1, Gregorčičeva 31, tel. (+386) 5673 22 33. This place came highly recommended by some of our Slovene friends who know a thing or two about qual-ity cuisine, and we can’t say that we were disappointed. It may look a little worse for wear than some of the other places you pass along the promenade, but every item on our reasonably-priced combo platter was cooked to perfection. Would we be able to tell it apart from the competition in a blind taste test? It’s highly unlikely we’ll ever have to. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (€6-24). PJAB

portorožThe poetically named Portorož, or Port of Roses, is home to one of the largest modern marinas on the Adriatic and is the undisputed king of Slovenia’s coastal tourism trade. Although it lacks the Venetian old towns that can be found else where along the coast, its numerous hotels, restau-rants, conference centres, spas and casinos make it a popular destination for both foreigners and Slovenes, and an excellent base for day trips and excursions farther afield.

Where to stayKempinski Palace Portorož D-3, Obala 45, tel. (+386) 5692 70 00/(+386) 5692 79 50, [email protected], www.kempin-ski-portoroz.com. This grandest of residences dominates Obala Street and the entire Piran Bay with its majestic architecture and refined gardens. All the comforts of a 5 star superior hotel can be found at the Palace, and at a reasonable price for the quality. When you want to escape for a moment of peace, the tranquil gardens at the rear of the hotel offer are a shady retreat rom the busy Obala entrance. Q 164 rooms, 17 suites (singles €235-310, doubles €285-360, suites €900-2150). PTJHAUILEBKXCW hhhhh

Marko D-3, Obala 28, tel. (+386) 5617 40 00, fax (+386) 5617 40 11, [email protected], www.hotel-marko.com. This small but high-quality hotel boasts beautiful rooms which all have balconies attached, some facing toward the beach, others facing to the back for more quiet. It also has a beau-tiful front garden for relaxing. As this small unique hotel only has 48 rooms, they fill up fast during the high season with many returning visitors. Q 48 rooms (doubles €100-120, suites €130-160). PTHAR6UGKXW hhhh

Penzion Forma Viva Seča 159, tel. (+386) 40 369 003, fax (+386) 5677 04 66, [email protected], www.formaviva-portoroz.si. If you would prefer to avoid the resort town atmosphere of the city’s crowded beachside area, but still want easy access to its restaurants and nightlife, this 23 room guest house in the leafy hills just south of Marina Portorož is a great option. With views towards the strangely exotic-looking Sečovlje salt pans, i ts pink-walled palm-lined courtyard has a distinctly tropical feel to it. The hotel is both pet and family-friendly, and the staff can arrange boat trips and recommend pleasant walks through the surrounding countryside Q €35-85. T6LG hh

Where to eatOndina E-3, Obala 16, tel. (+386) 5674 20 72, www.ondina.si. This res-taurant serves a wide range of typical seafood options in its Italian trattoria-style environment, but there are also meat and pasta options if you’re not in the mood for fish. While it makes great aims at being classy the constant flow of traffic outside their doors works against that effort; head to the side room for a bit more intimacy. Not very vegetarian friendly. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. (€9-20). TA6UVEGBXS

Staro Sidro E-3, Obala 55, tel./fax (+386) 5674 50 74, [email protected]. Walking up the steps of the old and abandoned Villa San Marco and heading in the direction of Staro Sidro, can feel like going into a time warp. The beautiful but decaying old restaurant seems to be frozen in another, simple time. Some of the staff seem to be frozen there right along with it, but it nonetheles offers a charming get away from the MTV beach madness. Its standard fare of sea food and meat dishes are reasonably priced and offered with a lengthy list of local wines. If you’re looking for an experience of classic old Portorož, this is your destination. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (€7-21). PTA6GBXS

NightlifeKanela Bar D-3, Obala 14, tel. (+386) 5 674 61 81, www.kanelabar.com. A fabulous rock n’ roll hangout during the summer time, day and night. The bar is actually so small you can barely fit more than 10 people inside at any given mo-ment, but most prefer the pleasure ofthe beach directly in front of the amongst the tall palm trees where the music is still heard loud and clear. Live rock concerts are frequent and the atmosphere surely heats up in the late hours with plenty of singing and dancing: a beach party in the making! QOpen 09:00 - 03:00. 6UEGBX

Paprika E-4, Obala 20a, tel. (+386) 5 674 82 64/(+386) 30 691 608, [email protected], www.paprika.si. A cafe during the day, the uber-modern interior only hints at the debaucherous disco scene that the place transforms

Wine BarsKlet Cantina A-1, Prvomajski Trg, tel. (+386) 5673 32 75. For a healthy dose of old world charm there’s nowhere better than this tiny wine bar hidden be-neath a canopy of grape vines on the 1st of May Square. This place has so much character you’ll wish you could bottle some up and smuggle it home in your hand baggage. Light meat and cheese plates are available if you linger long enough to drink up an appetite. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (€5-8). JB

What to see1st of May Square (Prvomajski Trg) A-1, . The administrative centre of Piran until the 13th century, these days it stands in stark contrast to the glistening Tartinijev Trg only a couple hundred metres away: scruffy and an unkempt with the odd clump of grass poking up between stones and more than one façade unin-tentionally revealing brick walls beneath crumbling layers of paint, in other words, perfect. In addition to several restaurants, art galleries and a great little wine bar, a large stone cistern elevates nearly half the square a metre off the ground and serves as a stage for various music, dance and theatre performances during the summer. Flanking the stairs leading up to the now dormant wells are two allegorical statues representing Law and Justice, both of which are obligingly photogenic.

Tartini Square (Tartinijev Trg) A-1, . Already arguably the most impressive squares in Slovenia, all debate was put to rest last year when it was transformed into a pedestrian only zone with outdoor cafés taking the place of parked cars - a fact that has yet to be reflected on most internet sites, including Google Maps. Fronted by two large neo-Renaissance buildings on one side and a mélange of smaller buildings of varying architectural styles on the other, the square itself is younger than almost all of them, having been part of Piran’s harbour until it was filled in in 1884. The square’s inner oval was given its distinctive shape when it served as the terminus for an electric railway that connected Piran to Portorož and Lucija until 1953, while its white marble surface was something of a posthumous gift to the late Tartini in 1992 on what would have been his 300th birthday.

St George Cathedral B-1, Adamičeva 6. Watching over the town and vis-ible from nearly every open space is the massive cathedral dedicated to Piran’s patron saint, the dragon slaying young knight from Capadoccia, George. Legend has it that towards the end of the 16th century the cathedral fell into a state of disrepair, which was so troubling that the Saint George himself made an appear-ance in order to motivate the citizenry to undertake the necessary renovations, and even blinded a sceptical mayor to show he meant business. True or not, the cathedral saw some major renovations shortly thereafter, including the addition of a nearly 50m bell tower, which is a scale copy of the San Marco Campanile in Venice. Throw in some stunning views of both the city and the sea and you have the makings for one of the most impressive churches in Slovenia.

Town Gallery Piran A-1, Tartinijev Trg 3, tel. (+386) 5671 20 80, [email protected], www.obalne-galerije.si. Above Café Tartini on the main square, Piran’s most important art space hosts a range of exhibitions throughout the year including the popular Ex-Tempore of Piran, which brings together upwards of 500 artists from Central and Eastern Europe annually. Unfortunately, their web-site is a little light on information - in English or otherwise - so it’s probably best to enquire about upcoming exhibitions at the nearby tourist centre or via email. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon.

PIraninto during the evening with themed nights ranging from latin to house music. The nights are replete with scantily clad go-godancers and a rotating roster of local and travelling DJs. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00. Admission free. PAULEG�BXW

Alaya Cocktail Bar E-4, Obala 22, tel. (+386) 51 33 22 33/(+386) 31 606 101, [email protected], www.alaya.si. A Caribbean, tropically decorated beach bar which serves up cocktails of all colours of the rainbow. A worthy place for a stop over during a night out with friends and on some nights a beach party more than likely can fire up with occasional live music or a DJ. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. TA6ULEBXSW

What to seeSečovlje Saline Nature Park Tel. (+386) 5672 13 30, [email protected], www.kpss.si. Hundreds of years ago, salt wasa commodity almost as valuable as gold and rulers fought to acquire and controlits means of collection. Sečovlje was one such rarified area and today it is preserved as a park with a visitors’ center and museum. A fascinating piece of history, the salt pans are not only an interesting public park, they are also awell-preserved natural habitat for birds. The trek out to the pans is an interesting one but make sure to pack your insect repellant, not all of the inhabitants here are friendly. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Admission: €3 adults; €2 students, seniors; free for children under age six.

ShoppingMax Mara Kempinski D-3, Obala 45, tel. (+386) 5 907 74 90/(+386) 31 667 223, [email protected], www.morris.si. Located in the luxurious Kempinski Palace Hotel, this well-known Italian fashion brand has been selling designer-quality apparel for over fifty years. The focus of the current collection is on sexy urban clothes for confident sophisticated women. Of course elegant Italian-made couture doesn’t come cheap, so you might want to start thinking now about how you can claim that must-have summer dress as a business expense. Q by prior arrangement on GSM 031 667 223

Studio La Perla D-3, Obala 33, tel. (+386) 5674 01 86, [email protected], www.morris.si. This small boutique in the Life Class Resort complex has you covered if you’ve forgotten to pack your swimsuit or would just like to treat yourself to something a little nicer before hitting the beach. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.

Still an easygoing fishing village at heart, Izola doesn’t get nearly as much love as some of Slovenia’s other coastal towns and is often overlooked by tourists racing by on their way to Piran for a day trip. However, as far as we’re concerned it’s a beautiful little Venetian port town with enough amenities to keep you comfortable, windy old streets to wander and sights to see to make it a worthwhile destination in its own right.

Where to stayMarina H-6/7, Veliki Trg 11, tel. (+386) 56 60 41 00, fax (+386) 56 60 44 10, [email protected], www.hotelmarina.si. Aside from private apartments, the Marina is pretty much your only option if you want to stay right in the centre of the old town, luckily it’s also one of the best. Perched right above the fishing port, it’s perfectly situated to soak up all of Izola’s rich history. The rooms are not huge but they’re all incredibly comfortable and well-equipped, and about half have balconies with sea views - although they come at a significant premium. The multi-lingual staff is friendly and helpful, especially when it comes to making travel arrangements, suggesting excur-sions or answering random questions. Q 52 rooms (singles €59-115, doubles €79-144, suites €135-261). hhh

San Simon Morova 6a, tel. (+386) 5660 31 00, fax (+386) 5641 84 02, [email protected], www.sansimon.si. Owned by the same group that operates that massive St Barnardin complex in nearby Portorož, the San Simon resort is a comparatively modest affair with some 200 three- and four-star rooms contained in two separate hotels and five smaller buildings that are befitting of Izola’s more laid back appeal. Aside from accommodation the complex’s green sloping grounds include a restaurant, tennis courts, a private beach, a newly built wellness centre and spa. Q PTLKD hhhh

Where to eatGušt I-8, Drevored 1 Maja 5, tel. (+386) 41 67 59 53/(+386) 41 65 03 33, [email protected]. One of several places within a block of each other on Drevored 1. Maja (or The 1st of May Avenue), Gušt always seems to have the fewest empty seats on its long terrace, and for good reason. Its thick menu has a bit of everything, but for our money the brick oven pizzas are probably the best in town. For those staying farther afield they also deliver to most nearby areas. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (€4.5-19). JAVBS

Parangal H-7, Sončno Nabrežje 20, tel. (+386) 5641 74 40/(+386) 41 67 38 46, [email protected]. Offers all kinds of meats, pastas, pizzas and traditional Istrian cuisine, but don’t be fooled - this is a place you come to for one reason only: seafood. Not the cheapest option in town, but that shouldn’t come as a surprise given its location and reputation. There’s also a large courtyard which has something of a tropical flavour to it and is a good place for a drink with or without food. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (€7-24). TJABS

Sidro H-7, Sončno nabrežje 24, tel. (+386) 5641 47 11, [email protected]. There’s no better place in Izola to dine - especially at sunset - than in Sidro’s outdoor seating area, which is actually across the street from the restaurant right on the edge of the port. Although the menu features some borderline exotic dishes, such as sea snails with polenta, we played it safe and went with the seafood risotto, but from the look of thing you can’t go wrong. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (€6.5-21). PJABS

NightlifeAmbasada Gavioli Industrijska 10, www.ambasadagavioli.net. Designed by Italian architect Gianni Gavioli, who’s something of a legend in the clubbing world, this massive 1600 square metre complex can comfortably fit over 2500 people and is one of the region’s top destinations for serious club goers. The building itself is a hodgepodge of themes, materials and styles but maintains something of a warm Mediterranean vibe throughout. Events are usually only held once or twice a month at most, but could be worth planning your trip around if you’re a big fan of electronic music. PALE

Wine Bar Manzioli H-7, Manziolijev Trg 5, tel. (+386) 5616 21 37, [email protected]. Operated by the Zaro family, who have called Izola home for around 700 years, the bar occupies the ground floor of a former palace on the old town’s most picturesque square. It’s one of our favourite spots on the entire coast for a drink, and the best place in Izola to sample quality local wines. If you’re there on a Saturday afternoon you’re also likely to catch at least one wedding ceremony at the church opposite. QOpen , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun 8:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 8:00 - 01:00. JAB

What to seeBesenghi degli Ughi Palace J-6, Gregorčičeva 76, tel. (+386) 5662 67 00/(+386) 040 631 034. Considered by many to be the finest building in Izola, it has sadly seen better days and from the looks of things now serves as a nightly hang out for the beer-swilling local youth. Although if you can imagine it without the grafitti and low hanging power lines it gives you some idea of the city’s past glory. By day it currently serves as Izola’s music school, which means visitors can take a look around while lessons are taking place.

Church of St Mary of Haliaetum H-7, Manziolijev Trg. The oldest church in Izola does its part to help make Manziolijev Trg one of the most aesthetically pleasing places in town. Other than the summer, it’s not often open to the pub-lic, but if you settle in for a drink at the nearby wine bar on any given Saturday afternoon you’ll likely be able to catch a wedding ceremony or two.

Parenzana Museum I-7, Alme Vivoda 3, [email protected]. In 1902 the Parenzana railway line was built connecting Trieste with Poreč (or Parenzo in Italian, hence the name) 123 kilometres to the south in present-day Croatia. Although it was only in operation until 1935 it garnered quite a reputation for the beautiful scenery along the route, much of which serves as a footpath and cycling road today. Dedicated to preserving the history of the short-lived line, this tiny museum opened its doors in 2000. It also houses an impres-sive model train collection that is probably a must see attraction for anyone interested in such things. It’s a good idea to ask for directions and confirm its working hours at the tourist office, since we had a bit of trouble tracking it down only to find that it had closed early. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission: €2.10/1.50 for adults/children.

St Maurus Church H/I- 6, Trg Svetega Mavra. Sitting atop Izola’s modest high point is the parish church of the town’s patron saint, who is also responsible for watching over the Azores, shoemakers, coppersmiths and the disabled. The present church was originally built by the Venetians in 1547, with the bell tower, which bears some resemblance to its larger predecessor in St Mark’s Square in Venice, coming some forty years later. The church last saw major renovations at the end of the 19th century and still holds regular services.

Izola

Piran’s picturesque Tartini Square is one of Slovenia’s most impressive public spaces

The Forma Viva sculpture garden in the hills south of Portorož is a must-see sight for art-lovers

Tourist information I-8, Sončno nabrežje 4, tel. (+386) 5640 10 50, fax (+386) 5 640 10 52, [email protected], www.izola.eu. Q July, August: every day 09:00 - 20:00 . June, September: 09:00 - 19:00, Sunday 09:00 - 17:00 . October - May: 09:00 - 17:00, Sunday closed

Tourist information

SLOVENIA FOR YOUTH

Izola’s fine cultural centre

Page 2: Koper In Your Pocket

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IntroducIng KoPer

KOPER

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where to stay

Slovenia may only boast 47km of Mediterranean coast, but as with the rest of the country it makes the most of what it has - which in this case includes an enviable selection of idyllic Venetian towns, small bustling fishing harbours, long pristine beaches, modern hotels and resorts, and even a still functioning ancient Roman salt pan. With a population of just under 25,000 and the country’s only commercial port, Koper is the the capital of the coastal region and the logical point of entry for most visitors.

Only a stone’s throw from Italy, Koper is undeniably closer to its Latin neighbour than it is most of the rest of Slovenia - not only geographically, but in terms of climate, culture and cuisine as well. Once overlooked by tourists (and travel writers) on their way further down the coast to the impossibly picturesque Piran or the packed resort town of Portorož, in recent years Koper has undergone some major restoration and development projects, which have left its impressive old town every bit as charming and stroll-worthy as those found elsewhere, while modern shopping centres, trendy restaurants and a handful of accommodation options have sprouted up seemingly overnight in the city’s new town.

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted

O Casino H Conference facilities

T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled

F Fitness centre L Guarded parking

R Internet G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant J Old town location

D Sauna C Swimming pool

6 Animal friendly W Wireless Internet access

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Blessed with a temperate Mediterranean climate, there is never a bad time to visit Koper

“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well- written series of guidebooks.”

The New York Times

restaurants

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted

E Live music S Take away

T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet L Guarded parking

O Casino J Old Town location

6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi

B Outside seating V Home delivery

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Map Hotels Restaurants Bars Sights

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ANKARAN, PIRAN, PORTOROŽ & IZOLA

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what to see

E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S

restaurants

anKaranOne of the smaller towns occupying the 46.6km of Slovenia’s Adriatic coast, Ankaran has a handful of quality restaurants, peaceful hotels, and other hidden gems waiting to be discovered. Our research team is cur-rently hard at work, and will be bringing you a full guide to Ankaran in the near future.

Where to stayVilla Andor Vinogradniška Pot 9, tel. (+386) 56 15 50 00/(+386) 41 65 51 00, fax (+386) 56 15 50 17, [email protected], www.andor.si. Housed in a beauti full y preserved centuries-old Venetian-style villa, Andor enjoys protected historic status as it had previously served as both a private and official state residence before being opened as a hotel in the mid-90s. Its 14 double rooms all come with antique furnishings as well as modern amenities, and most have at least partial sea views. Try to request room four (the Honeymoon suite), which has French doors opening onto a large private balcony. Q 14 rooms (singles €40-45, doubles €80-90). POA6ILBKX

Where to eatAndor Vinogradniška Pot 9, tel. (+386) 56 15 50 00/(+386) 41 65 51 00, [email protected], www.andor.si. Located in the hotel of the same name, the restaurant focuses on promoting regional Mediterranean-Istrian cuisine and local delicacies with its multi-course slow food menus prepared daily by their renowned head chef, Tomaž Bevčič. Along with a specially-selected wine to compliment each dish, it’s a great way to spend three or more hours on a weekend visit to the coast. During the warmer months you can dine on a large stone terrace with views across the Gulf of Koper, while the kids entertain themselves at the nearby playground. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.

where to stay

Koper, the Old Town at least, is one big sight. The joy of coming here is to wan-der its streets, often getting lost, mixing with locals, visitors and hoardes of day trippers. Old Town’s main street -if you can call it that - is Cevljarska, which is no more than two or three metres wide in places, and is packed from dawn to dusk when it, like most of Old Koper, disappears inside. Cevljarska leads up from Muda Gate to the town’s main square, Titov Trg, which is dominated by the bell tower of the St Mary’s of the Assumption Cathedral, visible from all over Koper.

BeachMestno Kopališče Koper K-9, Kopališko Nabrežje 1, tel. (+386) 5627 81 78. Koper’s small pebble beach lacks sand, but is a lovely place to soak up the sun or to swim in the warm (depending on the time of year of course…) water. You will find it on Kopalisko Nabreze, next to the marina. There are large areas of lawns for sunbathing, and an enclosed swimming area. Lifeguards are on hand to make sure you do not swim off out into the boating lanes. There are changing rooms, showers, children’s playgrounds, a restaurant and a café.

EssentialBell Tower (City Tower) L-10, Titov Trg. Rising up 54m from the centre of the old town, the city’s famed Bell Tower, will likely be the first sight visitors see no matter if they’re arriving by road, rail or sea. Originally part of a Roman fortification, the tower was transformed into its present appearance between the 15th and 17th centuries, and has been used for liturgical purposes ever since. Panoramic views of the entire region (weather permitting of course) can be had by ascending 204 steps to reach the viewing platform at 43m. Q Summer hours 09:00-14:00, 16:00-21:00. €2 per person.

Cathedral of Mary’s Assumption L-10, Titov Trg. Koper’s cathedral originally dates back to the 12th century when the city acquired its own diocese, and a Roman basilica actually stood on the same location as far back as ancient times. The current façade combines architectural styles, with a Gothic lower half and a noticeably Renaissance upper half. Inside the Cathedral there are numerous sights of note including the large altarpiece ‘Madonna with Child on the Throne of Saints’ by Vittore Carpaccio from 1516, the 15th century stone sarcophagus of St Nazarius (Koper’s patron saint), and an organ decorated with two additional painting by Carpaccio, ‘The Presenta-tion in the Temple’ and ‘The Slaughter of the Innocents’. The entire interior was redecorated by the famous Italian architect Giorgio Massari in the 18th century. Q No admission fee.

Praetorian Palace L-10, Titov Trg 3. Dominating the southern side of Tito Square is the imposing yet beautifully ornate Praetorian Palace, which has served as the municipal seat for some eight centuries. It’s Venetian Gothic design dates from the middle of the 15th century, with the outer staircase and balustrade added fifty years later, and the overall appearance of the façade taking shape in 1664 after significant renovations. After serving various pur-poses following the downfall of the Venetian Republic at the hands of Napoleon

There is not a great deal of choice when it comes to sleeping in Koper: most of the hotels are a much of a muchness, and when it comes to Old Town hotels there is basically no choice at all. A good option if an Old Town address is a must (and it should be) is to try and bag an apartment. A number of agencies will rent you well-furnished though often small apartments right in the city centre.

€70-100Aquapark Hotel Žusterna Istrska 67, tel. (+386) 5 610 03 00, fax (+386) 5 610 03 09, [email protected], www.terme-catez.si. A short bus ride out of town, this smart hotel right on the coast where the biggest draw is the enormous swimming pool, which features a wave machine, slides and a large area for children to splash around in. Most of the decent rooms have a sea or swimming pool view, and though not winning any design awards they are colourful, smart and cost about the same as a number of other places not fit to lace its boots. Excellent value all round. Q 114 rooms, 2 suites and 3 apartments (singles €71-79, doubles €110-126). PTHARUFLGBKDC hhh

BIO Vanganelska 2, tel. (+386) 5 625 88 84, fax (+386) 5625 88 85, [email protected], www.hotel-bio.si. In the newer part of town, some way from the Old Town (but accessible by bus) the Bio is a good choice for those on a budget. Rooms are simple but rather nice, and considering the almost negative cost you get plenty of value for your money. There’s an onsite restaurant complete with a terrace serving local specialities. Q 29 rooms (singles €38-53, doubles €57-79, triples €76). PTHAR6LGBKW hhh

Garni Hotel Pristan N-10/11, Ferrarska 30, tel. (+386) 5 614 40 00, [email protected], pristan-koper.si. Though it looks less than promising from the outside, this is just about the best hotel in town, and as such is the default choice of the business classes. It’s spick, span, and the well sized rooms are faultlessly attired. Bathrooms are great, there are plenty of freebie toiletries and the staff are both friendly and helpful in a wide variety of languages. Note that not all rooms have balconies, and as there is no extra cost for such luxuries ask for one when reserving or checking in. Q 10 rooms and 6 suites (singles €77, doubles €60, triples €50). PJHAULGBKDCW hhhh

Koper L-10, Pristaniška 3, tel. (+386) 5 610 05 00, fax (+386) 5 610 05 94, [email protected], www.terme-catez.si. The only full-sized hotel located within Koper’s old town, what its name lacks in originality it makes up for in location - with its façade dominating the waterfront promenade opposite the small harbour and the statue-packed Hlavatyev Park. Part of Terme Čatež chain of hotels, resorts and spas, it comes with the standard 3-star amenities and great views from most of the rooms. There are also two onsite conference halls for business or other events. Q 55 rooms, 10 suites (singles €74-92, doubles €114-150). PTHRULGBK hhh

Vodišek M-12, Kolodvorska 2, tel. (+386) 5 639 24 68/(+386) 41 634 877, fax (+386) 5 639 36 68, [email protected], www.hotel-vodisek.com. About half-way between the Old Town and the bus and train stations, the Vodisek is a good budget choice. Expect distinctly average rooms but at a more than reasonable price, and friendly staff eager to help you find your way around their town. The terrace café gets busy with locals and appears to be a centre of gossip. All adds to the fun of staying here. Note the reception is around the back, through the shopping mall. Q 33 rooms (singles €59, doubles 88, triples €107)44,2544,35. THR6ULBK hhh

Youth Hostel Motel Port Ankaranska 7, tel. (+386) 5 61 17 544, fax (+386) 5 639 32 59, [email protected], www.motel-port.si. Close to the station it is hard to miss this place: a classic American-style multi-level motel made unique my its brightly-coloured paint job. Always packed with backpackers, seasonal workers and bargain-hunting businessmen everyone fits in and everyone gets along. To meet fellow travelers its as good a place as any in town. Q 30 rooms (singles €29, doubles €43, triples €54, appartments €60-80, dormitory (4-6 persons) €15. PHAR6LGKW

Around KoperPadna Apartments Padna 65b, tel. (+386) 40 432 077, [email protected], www.apartmajipadna.si. Set at the edge of the idyllic village of Padna in the heart of Slovenia’s Istrian region, these two large, well-furnished apartments are a perfect combination of traditional style and modern amenities. Both apartments have multiple bedrooms, bathrooms, a living room and kitchen on two floors, as well as access to a balcony and terrace with sweeping views of the surrounding countryside. Padna is easily accessible from anywhere on the coast, with the most direct route being directly south of Koper on the road to Pula. Booking in advance is highly recommended during peak seasons. Q Apartment A4 €60-90, Apartment A5 €90-120. Bikes can be rented for only €3/day. PTAL

HostelsHostel Museum L-10, Muzejski Trg 6, tel. (+386) 5 626 18 70/(+386) 41 504 466, [email protected], hostel-museum.freehost386.com. Aside from bedding down in the student dorms during the summer holidays, this is the only hostel option in town - although they technically have more singles, doubles and apartments than dorms. The place won’t be winning any awards involving the word ‘luxury’, but for location and price it can’t be beat. The mostly en suite rooms come in all shapes sizes, so it’s worth taking a look at what is available. Q Rooms without/with kitchen €20/25 per person. Apartments €50. JAW

Koper, like all of the Slovenian coast, is blessed with some wonderful fish and seafood restaurants. In fact, if you are not all that into wet treats then you may well struggle, as that’s all Koper really knows how to do. Look out for Koper style fast food too, Okrepčevalnica bars: small, Italian-style places which serve great food of the primo, secondo piatti variety at lunchtime. You can usually eat very well here for a fraction of the cost of a restaurant.

ChinesePeking Cesta Marežganskega Upora 13, tel. (+386) 5625 08 08, www.kitajska-restavracija.si. One of four popular Chinese restaurants run by the Ji family from Shanghai, Koper’s Peking is located just south of the H5 motorway near the Mercator Centre. Known for its extensive menu, huge portions and friendly service, this is our favourite place for authentic Chinese food on the coast. Try to grab a table in the garden, where you can dine amongst bamboo trees and intimate lighting under the smiling gaze of a large Buddha statue. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. PTAL

FishManta M-10, Pristaniška 2, tel. (+386) 31 701 331, [email protected], restaurant-manta.si. Fish and seafood (what else!) restaurant on a terrace above the harbour. Below are various other cafés and restaurants, but this is perhaps the most upmarket. Doesn’t look like much from outside but the food is terrific and service friendly. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. PTJALGBK

Skipper L-9, Kopališko nabrežje 3, tel. (+386) 5626 18 10, [email protected], www.skipper-koper.com. The seamen’s and sailor’s choice, the highlight of this place in the heart of the harbour is the raised terrace overlooking the marina and shipyards. Expect to dine very well on huge pieces of fresh fish caught that day. Wash it down with a couple of the great local wines on the menu. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. Holidays 11:00-22:00 JAGBK

InternationalCityburger Ankaranska 7, tel. (+386) 5 630 9920/ (+386) 41 93 49 32, www.cityburger.si. Don’t be fooled by the name, Cityburger is decidedly not a simple fast food joint. Not only does the interior have the appearance of an country bistro, but the menu also offers an enormous selection - with dozens of pizzas, steak,

seafood, pasta and salads all vying for your attention. Of course they also prepare some tasty burgers, including the namesake Cityburger, which boasts a jaw-breaking two beef patties and three pieces of bread (although for the record we usually opt for either the bacon or chicken burger). Located in Koper’s main commercial district just east of the old town centre, there is plenty of free parking available.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PTAVLBS

Istrska klet Slavček L-11, Župančičeva 39, tel. (+386) 5 627 67 29. Fantastic! Plates of sea food nibbles such as deep fried squid in batter served as appetisers or simple snacks for the many locals who come here for lunch or an early dinner. There is also for once a good non-fish menu: check the daily specials on the blackboard, like the brilliant minestrone soup. Super location too, and plenty of outside seating. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sun 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat. (€3-9.5). JULGBK

La Storia L-10, Pristaniška 3, tel. (+386) 5 626 20 18, [email protected], www.lastoria.si. Excellent value fish and pizza on the seafront strip that is Pristaniska. Covered terrace means you can sit here and enjoy your huge pizzas even when it rains. Big salads, generous ice creams and smiling waitresses. A winner. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 01:00. (€7-45)PJA6UGBK

Okrepčevalnica Pr Bepča L-11, Čevljarska 36, tel. (+386) 5 627 20 52. Easily the best place to eat lunch in Koper. A friendly, English speaking owner cooks up big pots of roast potatoes, fresh fish and grilled veggies daily. It’s self-service, order, take a seat then go back for your tray. Tito watches over proceedings from a place of honour behind the counter. Take away too. QOpen 07:00 - 17:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. TJAGKS

PizzaPizzeria Atrij L-10, Čevljarska 8, tel. (+386) 5 627 2255/(+386) 31 390 446. You need to make a bit of an effort to find this place. Though the address is Čevljarska (Old Town Koper’s main street) it is in fact found in a small alley off the street. Do find it though, because it’s a brilliant little pizzeria that reminds you just how close to Italy we really are. Cheap as chips too. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. JAUGBK

Pizzeria Park K-L/11, Pristaniška 2, tel. (+386) 5626 10 25/(+386) 041 681 844, [email protected], pizzeriapark-koper.com. They’ve a genuine wood fired clay oven here and they aren’t afraid to boast about it. Terrific pizza cooked in minutes and whisked to your table by efficient staff. Drinks well priced, including - we think - the cheapest beer on this little seafront strip. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. JGBK

Bar Bonaco K-L/11, Pristaniška 2, tel. (+386) 40 232 601. Slightly cheaper and more down to earth alternative to Café Mercato on the other side of the market. You are more likely to find the costermongers themselves here enjoying a sly coffee and cigarette before heading back to their stalls. Our fave café/bar in town for its sheer authenticity. QOpen 06:30 - 20:00, Sat 06:30 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. JAGB

STA Travel Café Prešernov Trg 2, tel. (+386) 5 721 5820, [email protected], www.staljubljana.com. Situated on picturesque little Prešernov Trg at the far southern point of the Koper’s old town, STA is the newest branch of the Ljubljana-based travel agency of the same name. More than just your average café, they host bi-monthly travel and culture themed lectures, and also display rotating exhibitions of travel photography. Several internet terminals are available in additional to WiFi, and the young perky staff are generally more than happy to answer any questions you have about the city. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.

Internet CaféE Kavarna @ Pina L-10, Kidričeva 43, tel. (+386) 5 627 80 72, fax (+386) 5 630 03 21, [email protected], www.pina.info. Great internet café on a quiet street in Old Town with fantastic, new computers and fast internet connections. Prices are dirt cheap, the only gripe we would have is that coffee is from a machine only (and a machine which it took us ten minutes to understand how to operate). QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. PJRGW

Cafés

in 1797, the building underwent a decade long restoration in the 1990s and now once again serves as the municipal seat and mayor’s office, as well as the Tourist Information Centre. Q Free guided tours can be arranged in advance through TIC.

Taverna (St Marc’s Salt Warehouse) K/L-10, Carpacciov Trg. For much of the past millennium salt production served an important role along Slovenia’s coastal region, with documented exploitation of the salt pans dating from as early as 1182. Taking up the lion’s share of Carpaccio Square on the western edge of the old town is the Taverna building, which formerly served as a salt warehouse before becoming at various times an inn, a fish market and of course a tavern. Today the structure is used as a multi-purpose space for various events, including many live concerts and other performances.

GalleriesGalerija Meduza L-11, Čevljarska 34, tel. (+386) 5627 48 37. An excel-lent collection of contemporary art by various local artists, all of which is for sale. Friendly staff will help with onward shipping should you require. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Muzejska Galerija L-10, Kidričeva 21, tel. (+386) 5663 35 70. Part of the Koper Regional Museum (which is next door), the gallery museum presents chang-ing exhibitions of various interest throughout the year. When we last visited the current exhibition was a superb presentation of the role of profane art and music in Venetian society. Check the gallery’s website for details of current exhibitions. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

MuseumsKoper Regional Museum L-10, Kidričeva 19, tel. (+386) 5 663 35 70, [email protected]. Housed inside a wonderful Venetian Palace, the Koper Regional Museum presents a rather condensed history of Koper, Izola and Piran. While there’s precious little to actually see, there are some rather nice paintings to admire, and the building is wonderful. Walking around is not the worst way in the world to kill half an hour. Q Sep-Jun Mon-Fri10:00-18:00, Sat and Sun 09:00-13:00; Jul-Aug: 09:00-13:00, Tue-Sun 18:00-21:00. Closed Mon.

Koper Tourist Information Centre L-10, Titov Trg 3, tel. (+386) 5 664 64 03, [email protected], www.koper.si. Koper’s well-stocked tourist information centre is located in the centre of town on Tito Square. The friendly multi-lingual staff will gladly make recommendations for what to see and do both in Koper and the surrounding countryside, and free brochures and maps can be found for pretty much everything there is to see and do in the region. Q Open daily 09:00-20:00 (June-Sept), and 09:00-17:00 (Oct-May).

Tourist information

what to see

Around Koper

shoPPIng

Never known as retail Mecca, in recent years the city has actually seen more than its fair share of development, which is beginning to attract more and more shoppers from the region. Now boasting no less than three shopping centres, all located to the southwest of the old town, there are more than enough op-portunities to browse the latest fashions, or just pick up a new swimsuit before hitting the beach. For gifts and souvenirs, it’s still better to stick to the smaller shops and galleries that are scattered throughout the winding Venetian streets of the old town.

ShoppingKoper Market K-L/11, Pristaniška 2. Koper’s main market is on Pristaniska ulica, opposite the hotel Koper. It is open seven days a week from around 06:30, and the stallholders offer a wide variety of local and imported produce, as well as the local staple, fish. Indeed, the fish section (find it at the back, inside) is the highlight of coming here. Arrive before 10:00 and you will see almost every fish native to these parts for sale, often at incredibly cheap prices.

Mercator Center 2 Kolodvorska 4, tel. (+386) 5 662 69 06, www.merca-tor.si. Enormous Mercator hypermarket half way between the Old Town and the station. You will find everything you could possibly need, and more besides. Has a great fish counter as you would expect in these parts. Most local buses stop here. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.

Planet Tuš Ankaranska 2, tel. (+386) 70 881 294, www.planet-tus.com. Koper’s newest western-style shopping centre is also easil y the biggest in the region, and, judging by the all the foreign registration plates in the car park, already a hit with shoppers from Trieste to Pula. Home to some 70 local and international shops (most of which have something to do wi th fashion and footwear), the centre also has a modest food court, a modern 6-screen cinema, and bowling alley that doubles as the ci ty’s most popular club at the weekends. I f nothing else there’s prime people watching, bright colourful lights and sweet refreshing air condition-ing. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. For movie info call (+386) 59 73 4400. For bowling reservations (+386) 59 73 4420.

Tom Tailor Outlet Ankaranska 4, tel. (+386) 51 658 560, [email protected], www.sportina.si. This 500m² shop is the first Tom Tailor outlet in Slovenia, and offers discounts of up to 50% off regular retail prices. You can find the full range of modern casual wear for men, women and children from the German fashion brand whose name is synonymous with quality and style. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.

BarsBikers Speed Pub L-12, Ferrarska 14, tel. (+386) 5 630 87 92. In the newer part of Koper, around the Vodisek hotel, this place is a lively bar that does not attract speeding bikers, but does attract the city’s students. Indeed, it attracts hundreds of them most evenings, so expect a lively time a very friendlt bunch of people. The beer is good, cold and cheap, and service as prompt as you would expect. There’s half-decent pizza too if you’re hun-gry. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Wed, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:00. JALEGBK

Café Calypso L-10, Pristaniška 3, tel. (+386) 5626 28 73/(+386) 040 888 697, [email protected]. Makes up, along with Kavarna Kapitanija and La Storia, something of an ‘around Ukmarjev Trg’; trinity of trendy cafes and cocktail bars. Almost within touching distance of the boats moored in the marina this place is a veritable trend-fest of expensive sunglasses, Lacoste polo shirts and soft leather shoes. I talians think they do fashion well? Come here and you’ll be convinced they have nothing on Slovenes. Q JAUGBKX

Kavarna Kapitanija K-10, Ukmarjev Trg 8, tel. (+386) 59 942 469/(+386) 040 799 000, [email protected]. Rivals La Storia as the trendiest café and bar in town. The local sunglasses crowd love it, and to get a place on one of the funky red or yellow sofas at the front you will need to be here very early during the day or turn up in the latest convertible with a gorgeous man or woman on your arm. By day café it becomes a bar in the evening and for sheer posing value there’s nowhere in town to beat it. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. TJAGBK

La Storia L-10, Pristaniška 3, tel. (+386) 5 626 20 18, [email protected], www.lastoria.si. The biggest and brashest café/bar/ter-race in Koper, we’re told that trendier types tend to head down the road but on our visit we found this place packed with gorgeous, tanned pretty young things drinking non alcoholic cocktails and generally having a great time. Slovenes are a happy, smiley bunch and this place is great for watching be just that: happy and smiley. Best place in town for views from the terrace of the marina and boats. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PTJAUGBK

Lord Byron L-11, Repičeva 2. Koper’s one real pub is tucked away on one of the narrowest, quietest streets in Old Town, and is all the better for it. A couple of tables out on the street fill up quick, but the real charm of this place is inside: it’s Old England in Old Koper without even trying. Besides Guinness and ales in bottles, there’s some good pub grub on the menu too.

Unless you are driving, you will arrive in Koper by train or by bus. Both the bus and train station are in the same place, outside of the city centre a fair old walk from Old Town. As railway stations go Koper’s is a pleasant enough place, with amaz-ingly clean toilets. There is an ATM, left luggage lockers, and a booth selling local bus tickets. You will need one of these (they cost €0.42) to use one of the local buses to get into town: take bus No. 1 or No. 2 to Pristaniska ulica. Buses depart every ten minutes or so and the journey takes no more than five minutes. There are also buses for Izola, Portoroz and Piran. The one-way fare to Izola is €1.80. Pay the driver as you board. As for transpoprt back to Ljubljana, you will have the same two options: bus or train. There are more busses per day than trains, but the train is cheaper (€9.70 as opposed to €10.40 on the bus) and as most locals appear to take the bus (which can, depending on traffic, be a bit quicker) you often have a compartment on the train to yourself. Our recommendation is to take the train: it is a nicer experience.

Car rentalAMZS RENT d.o.o. Hertz L-11, Pristaniška 21, tel. (+386) 5627 80 60/(+386) 5627 80 61, [email protected], www.hertz.si. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Cars from €38 per day.

TaxiTaxi Jani Tel. (+386) 5625 02 50/(+386) 31 320 320.Taxi Morje Tel. (+386) 5628 11 11/(+386) 041 222 111.Taxi Sonce Tel. (+386) 51 307 300, [email protected] Srečko Partizanska 6d, tel. (+386) 31 386 000/(+386) 40 386 000, [email protected], taxisrecko-sp.si.

Arriving & Getting Around

Tourist Information Centre Ankaran Jadranska 25, tel. (+386) 5 6520 444, fax (+386) 5 6520 445, [email protected], www.koper.si. Located just inside the turn off for the Adria Ankaran resort complex, the small office doesn’t look like much from outside, but is stacked floor to ceiling with the same local and regions brochures, maps and books as the larger tourist centre in Koper. The staff is young, multi-lingual and usually eager to chat since they don’t seem to get all that much traffic. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.

Tourist information

The ancient and the modern are seamlessly combined in central Koper

The beautifully restored Praetorian Palace is home to the mayor’s office and Tourist Information Centre

Stretching to the south and east of Koper, the rolling hills and valleys of the Istrian countryside are dotted with ancient villages, Roman ruins, cliff-top churches and countless hiking and cycling trails just waiting to be explored. You’ll likely need your own car, or at least a driver, to reach most of what the region has to offer in a timely fashion, but the wealth and proximity of sights makes renting an easily justifiable expense. We’ve listed a few of our favourites below, but for a complete run down of all there is to see or do - as well as maps and other info - visit either the Koper or Ankaran tourist offices.

Bertoki Located just off the Koper-Trieste road near the Rižana River, Bertoki is a small settlement formerly known as Rižan-Lazaret or simply Lazaret. The village boasts a gorgeous li ttle parish church dedicated to Mary’s Assumption, which displays the 400 year-old ‘Crucified Christ’ painted by an unknown local artist. Next to the church is a Venetian-style bell tower added in the 18th century. The area was once famous as for the sprawling summer manors that belonged to the noble families of Koper, and a tree-lined promenade leading to the church still remains from this time.Today Bertoki is

home to the only surviving colonial estate in the Primorska region, which is a protected cultural heritage site. The nearby Škocjanski Zatok nature reserve (established in 1998) is easily combined with a visit to the village.

Črni Kal The village of Črni Kal lies just off the main motorway a dozen or so kilometres east of Koper, at the natural border of the Karst region. For most visi-tors, the most immediately noticeable feature of the area, is the enormous Črni Kal Viaduct. Completed in 2004, at 1065m long and 95m high, it’s currently the longest bridging structure in the country. Conspicuously perched on the rocky cliffs above the village are the remnants of an 11th century fortress, which was part of the defence system of the Venetian Republic, while on another nearby hill there’s the odd-looking bell tower of the Baroque Church of St Valentine. Dating from 1680, the tower now has a noticeable lean to it, and is secured in place by steel wires. The village itself, has typical Istrian-Karst architecture with numerous decorative stone details. One house in particular, the so-called Benkova Hiša, is officially considered to be the oldest farmhouse in Slovene and the earliest example of Slovene folk architecture, dating from 1489. The rocky slopes above the village offer over 100 climbing routes of various levels of difficulty, and provide spectacular

views of the valleys and hills below leading towards Koper and the sea, and there are even more hiking and cycling opportunities in the surrounding countryside.

Hrastovlje The Istrian village of Hrastovlje is most famous for its Church of the Holy Trinity, which dates back to the 13th century. The entire interior of the the church is covered in frescoes by the 15th century Slovene artist Janez of Castua, including the eerily enchanting Dance of Death or Danse Macabre [editor’s note: this is also the title of a great album by an indie dance punk band from Omaha called The Faint]. Most of the equally impressive other works take their themes from the various parts of the Old Testament, and some include inscrip-tions in Glagolitic - the oldest known Slavic alphabet, developed by Saints Cyril and Methodius in the 9th century. The church is surrounded by 16th century walls with two defence towers, originally built to fend off the Ottomans. The quaintly picturesque Hrastovlje village, with its traditional Istrian architecture, is also worth a stroll, and as with many of the village in the area it’s a popular starting point for hiking, cycling and motorcycle trips into the surrounding countryside. For art lovers two galleries in the centre of the village are also worth perusing, the Jože Pohlen Gallery and the Victor Snoj Gallery.

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The hills around Koper are packed with sights

Koper In Your PocketDrenikova 33, 1000 LjubljanaSloveniaTel. +386 30 316 [email protected]

Director Niko Slavnic M.Sc. [email protected] 1855-3486©IQBATOR d.o.o.

Printed GrafokomPublished once per year

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EditorialEditors Yuri BarronWriters Yuri Barron, Will Dunn, Craig Turp, Richard SchofieldLayout & Design Vaida GudynaitėConsulting Craig Turp Photos Koper TIC, Yuri BarronCover photo Yuri Barron

ManagementSales & Operations ManagementIrena Jamnikar, Karmen Hribar, Biljana Maletič

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t: +386 (0)5 625 08 08f: +386 (0)5 625 08 09

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We serve delicious Beijing duck, Sichuan, Candovan and Shanghai food in our beautiful and nice garden. Very nice

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