Hamburg In Your Pocket

HAMBURG

Glühwein and shopping Christmas markets

Santa is German BallinStadt exhibition

November - December 2008November - December 2008

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

N°12Complimentary copy

www.inyourpocket.com

3CONTENTS

November - December 2008

E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S

Arriving 5Getting there and oriented

History 6From Vikings to prosperity

Glossary 7The basics

Culture & Events 8What’s going on

2008 Highlights 11Hamburg events to look forward to

Where to stay 12From park bench to Park Grand

Restaurants 19From fine dining to fast food

Nightlife 24Bars, clubs and general debauchery

What to see 29Sights in and around town

Hamburg day by day 36Plan your short trip here

Hamburg Harbour 37From fishing village to container port

Getting around 38Trains, planes and taxis

Mail & Phones 40Heed your calling

Shopping 41Souvenirs, food and books

Directory 43Banks, pharmacies and hairdressers

Maps & IndexStreet register 45City map 46-47Transport map 48-49Index 50

Contents

© Hamburg Tourismus GmbH


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Hamburg In Your Pocket

FOREWORD 5


E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S

Winter is perhaps Hamburg’s best season. When the Christmas markets occupy the squares in the centre, and the fairy lights are strung above the busy shopping streets, you occasionally catch a whiff of warm mulled glühwein giving you that incomparable atmosphere winter feeling. Unfortunately the other wintery feeling you’ll soon get has more to do with numb toes, but it’s alsway easy to scurry into a museum or theatre to catch an exhibition or show to warm yourself – see our event listings to see what’s on this winter. As always, we’d be happy to hear from readers, so if you have tips or comments after using this city guide to Hamburg, send us an email so we can help future visitors. Emails are welcome at [email protected]

Arriving by planeHamburg’s Fuhlsbüttel Airport is an efficient, busy international airport 8 kilometres from the city centre. To get to the centre, take the Airport Express bus N°110 to Ohlsdorf station and change for the U- or S-Bahn to the city centre. A €2,50 single ticket is required for the trip which takes 20-30 minutes. There’s also a direct Airport Express bus to the main station; tickets €5 (children €2), €4 if you’re in a group of six or more. Buses depart every 15-20 minutes.

Arriving by trainInterCityExpress (ICE), EuroCity (EC) and InterCity (IC) trains ar-rive at one or more of Hamburg’s three stations: Hauptbahnhof main station, Altona or Dammtor. All stations have shops, lug-gage lockets and other facilities, with Hauptbahnhof the best - it also houses the main tourist information centre.

ARRIVING

Editorial Editor-in-Chief Jeroen van MarleEditorial Contributors ScoResearch Morwenna ParkynLayout & Design Tomáš HamanMaps Kartographie Eichner, [email protected]

Cover photo: Church Reflections© iStockphoto

Sales & Circulation General Manager Stephan KrämerAccounting Martin WollenhauptAdvertising:Philippe Krüger

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright In Your Pocket GmbH 2006-2008. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Editor’s noteThe editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

In Your Pocket GmbHAxel-Springer-Str. 3910969 BerlinTel: (+49)(0)30 27 90 79 81Fax: (+49)(0)30 24 04 73 [email protected]

© In Your Pocket GmbH, a company of UAB In Your PocketVokieciu 10-15Vilnius, Lithuaniatel. (+370-5) 212 29 76

Printed by Druckteam GbR Berlin.Published bi-monthly, 15.000 copies

Hamburg, the vibrant metropolis in the very north of Germany, wows with its bustling port, a wide range of cultural activities, sporting amenities, vast urban green spaces and a manifold shopping world. From the Speicher-stadt, the world s largest continuous warehouse, built between 1825 and 1927, over the legendary Reeperbahn to the HafenCity, Europe s largest in-ner city renewal project: Hamburg has very much to offer to its visitors. Centuries ago Hamburg rose to prominence as one of the most mercantile cities in the world through its membership of the powerful Hanseatic League. Due to its tolerant and open-minded citizens the “Free and Hanseatic City” of Hamburg ever since remained at the forefront of modern trends. 2007 is set to be a year of grand openings and superlatives in every aspect. Among the particular highlights of Hamburg is without doubt the cultural scene that with three theatres, 30 private stages, 200 art galleries and 40 museums is much loved by national and international aficionados. Fans of classical music can look forward to stars such as Anne-Sophie Mutter or the magnificent production by Verdi’s Nabucco at the Color Line Arena. Being a capital of sports Hamburg keeps very much in shape with around 50 national and international sports events each year. Sporting highlights of the year 2007 will be the Triathlon World Championship and the IHF Handball World Championship. The grand openings of new attrac-tions such as the International Maritime Museum and the “Port of Dreams” Auswandererwelt Ballinstadt are bound to succumb Hamburg visitors to the incomparable charm of its maritime world and also emphasize its status as “the gateway to the world”. And for all fashion and lifestyle fans: Large shopping streets such as the Mönckebergstraße, Haute Couture houses on Neuen Wall, noble boutiques on Eppendorfer Baum or the stunning new “Europa Passage” make Hamburg a unique paradise for all shoppers. I hope that you will enjoy your trip to Hamburg and keep us in a pleasant remembrance! Yours sincerely,Dietrich von Albedyll, Managing Director of the Hamburg Tourist Board

Welcome to HamburgWith over 11 million passengers a year, Hamburg’s international airport is Germany’s fourth largest airport. Starting of f in 1910 as a zeppelin field, the modern airport now has two terminals with 70 airlines serving 120 destinations worldwide, and employs 12000 people. The main airlines are Luf-thansa, Air Berlin, HapagFly, Condor, dba and British Airways. At just 8.5km from the centre of town it’s just a quick trip to town, soon to be made easier yet with the opening of a new S-Bahn connection which will whisk passengers to the city centre in 23 minutes. For more information, visit www.ham.airport.de.

Airport Hamburg



Whether for a daytrip, holiday or business trip, every year 20 million passengers use one of the 12 Scandlines ferry connections in the triangle between Germany, Denmark and Sweden and the Baltics. The Rostock-based shipping company has one of the best per forming and best connected route networks in the Baltic Sea. There and back on di f ferent routes, individual trips through the Scandinavian and Baltic countries – no problem with Scandlines. Together, we can plan your personal trip using our ferries as well as those of our shipping partners, allowing for attractive tickets for Finland.www.scandlines.de – The virtual gangway to your ticket: informative, fast and available 24/7.

Around the clock to Scandinavia and the Baltics

Reflecting the Michel

Hamburg’s main protestant church - St. Michaelis - be-ing reflected by its smaller sister, the catholic St. Ans-gar church, called Kleiner Michel.

Cover story

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HISTORY GLOSSARY825 AD: Emperor Charlemagne ordered the construction of a castle between the Alster and Elbe rivers as a defence against possible Slavic invasion. The castle was named Hammaburg, hence the city’s name.845: Having reached Hamburg via the Elbe, a fleet of 600 Viking ships destroyed the city of then only 500 inhabitants.1189: Frederick I “Barbarossa” gave Hamburg the status of an Imperial Free City and tax-free access from the Lower Elbe into the North Sea. Though the charter was not officially drawn up until 1265, it gave the merchants of Hamburg the go-ahead to begin establishing guilds and foreign trade. This quickly led to Hamburg’s status as a major port in Europe.1235: the Alster was dammed, leading to the creation of what we today know as the “Außenalster” and the “Binnenalster.“ 1241: Hamburg allied with Lübeck to become a member of the Hanseatic League of trading cities.1558: Hamburg’s stock exchange was established.1619: The Bank of Hamburg was founded.1810-1814: Hamburg was annexed by Napoleon I and suffered under France’s rule. Russian General Bennigsen finally freed the city in 1814. 1815: The Congress of Vienna granted Hamburg its freedom and the city joined the German federation1842: A fire swept through Hamburg destroying nearly a third of the city centre. Almost 20,000 people were left homeless. However, subsequent developments in transportation, such as railway lines to Kiel and Berlin and the introduction of the steamship, led to the city’s reparation.1881: construction of the Speicherstadt expanded Hamburg’s port capabilities by providing more storage room for the coffee, cocoa, spices and carpets that arrived daily. The port expanded to the opposite side of the Elbe. During this time Hamburg’s population also expanded, quadrupling to almost 800,000.1914-1918: 40,000 Hamburg men died in the First World War. A trade blockade cut off Hamburg’s trade with the world and Germany also lost most of its fledgling colonies. Nonetheless, Hamburg rebounded as trade routes were re-established and an influx of businesses found new homes in Hamburg’s harbour area.1919: The University of Hamburg was established.1937: The Groß-Hamburg-Gesetz (Greater Hamburg Act) led to the incorporation of outer-lying areas into Hamburg doubling Hamburg’s population almost overnight. This included Wandsbek, Harburg, Wilhelmsburg and Altona.1938-1945: During the Second World War, Hamburg suffered through repeated Allied bombings. Some estimate that up to 55,000 German civilians were killed during this

time. Another 40,000 Hamburg men lost their lives in battle. The city itself lost almost half of its living area, half of its industry and most of the port and harbour area. In the nearby concentration camp, Neuengamme, almost 70,000 people were killed at the hands of the Nazis. 1945: The city of Hamburg surrendered to the Allied forces on April 3 and was soon occupied by the British.1946: Hamburg begins to regain a sense of normalcy. A new city council is elected and only a few years later in 1952 Hamburg’s currently used constitution came to life.1962: On February 16 a storm surge from the North Sea caused the River Elbe to rise to its highest point ever. One fifth of the city was flooded and more than 300 people died.1989: The Berlin Wall falls.1990: The “Wiedervereinigung” - German reunification. Hamburg’s proximity to the former East German border makes it a popular choice for those looking to explore new opportunities in the West.2008: Hamburg is a thriving, wealthy metropolis of 1.7 million inhabitants and Germany’s second largest city. Its port ranks second in Europe and seventh in the world. Industry has also grown, making Hamburg a leader in the technology and biotechnology fields and all media outlets.

Bike lanesGermans take their cycling very seriously. You may notice that on the pavement there is typically a lane of sorts that has been laid in darker stones or concrete - this is for bikers only, and though you may walk it in at your own risk, beware that there is truly a risk. Hamburgers may ride fast, even recklessly, and are usually armed with a bell that will sound loudly right before you are almost run over. You might also hear something to the effect of “Mensch!” if the bell is out of order. To be on the safe side, we recommend following a local pedestrian.

TippingDeciding what to tip in Hamburg is tricky. On small meals or drinks it is fine to round to the nearest euro, even if it is only €0,20. A nicer meal requires at a minimum 10%. Many people tip higher and many Germans in the wait-industry are used to higher tips from foreigners - especially Americans. Whatever you choose to tip, mention the total sum when you pay the bill (i.e. if the bill was €25 you would say €28 bitte). The idea behind this is that the waiter or waitress will be aware of how much you tipped them. Then again, if you are leaving something rather meagre you might want to leave it on the table and run for it.

DrivingGermany has a brilliant network of Autobahn (motorways, prefixed A) and Bundesstrasse roads (major roads, prefixed by B. Traffic drives on the right with speed limits of 130km/h or 100km/h outside built-up areas, and 50km/h in built-up areas. And indeed, there are really no speed limits on Autobahnen which makes for some fun driving and some truly ghastly accidents. Keep a close eye on the rear mirror if you’re planning to overtake or if you’re in the left lane, as those headlights in the distance behind you may get uncomfortably close very quickly. Seatbelts must be worn at all times and children under 12 years can only travel in the front seat with a child restraint. German laws are strict by many accounts when it comes to driving after you have had a few pints, glasses or snifters full of booze. The legal maximum alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.05%.

LanguageThe German language has been somewhat misrepresented in the foreign media over the past decades, and when you hear it spoken it’s not as harsh as you may expect. Although you won’t be able to learn it on a short trip, it’s always nice to memorise a few key terms like thank you (danke), please (bitte), hello (gutentag) and goodbye (auf wiedersehen). You’ll notice that written German has some odd characters, such as the ß, the ü, ö and ä. Annoyingly, these are interchangeable with combinations of letters and can (and often are) replaced by ss, ue, oe and ae respectively – which explains why the website of Cologne (Köln) is spellt www.koeln.de.

MoneyThe best way to get cash in Germany is to use an ATM machine, of which there are plenty all over the country. German banks do not charge for using foreign cards in their machines, so check with your own bank if you’ll pay any commission. Even if you do have to pay a euro or two to use an ATM, it’ll be better value and easier than going to one of the banks or train station exchange offices (like the Reisebank chain) as they have worse exchange rates and will charge a commission.

Germany ditched the Deutsche mark in 2002, adopting the euro, pronounced locally as oi-ro. Germany’s economy is the largest in Europe, and therefore the majority of coins in circulation now are German ones; you’ll see Berlin’s Brandenburg Gate on the €0.10, €0.20 and €0.50 coins, and the German eagle flapping around on the €1 and €2. the banknotes, if you’re wondering, are the same for the whole of euroland, and are adorned with generic European bridges.

Shopping practicalitiesGerman retail laws were incredibly strict in the past, with shops not even regularly opening on Saturdays a year just a decade ago, and still are not as flexible as elsewhere. On Sundays nearly everything shuts down, with perhaps just a few shops at the train station open, and on Saturdays you’ll see many smaller shops closing around 14:00. Though it may thwart your purchasing plans, it does result in a special relaxed feel to the Sundays, which is quite nice for a change. Credit cards are still to be embraced by most shops, much to the annoyance to big-spending foreigners. This is due to the system of electronic debit card payments that was in place in Germany and other mainland European countries much earlier; this is a safer and cheaper system than credit card as it always requires PIN identicication rather than a signature, and is free of the 3% commission for the shopkeepers (eventually paid by you, dear shopper).

SafetyGermany is a very safe country to travel in, and other than the usual precautions against pickpocketing, there are no special preparations you should make. Although Germany has been in the news recently for racist attacks, these incidents are quite rare and are by no means a purely German phenomenon. Germans are aware that their country is more closely scrutinised than others when it comes to this, and racism and violence is not tolerated, witness the impressive level of security around synagogues and Jewish institutions: sturdy barriers and round-the-clock armed guards.

TimeGermany uses the 24-hour clock system, known as military time in some places, but as simply as ‘the time’ here. By doing away with all the am, pm, noon and midnight nonsense, it’s really quite useful for avoiding confusion, and Germany is one of the few places where the 24-hour clock is even used in spoken language. You may be told that the museum closes at sixteen-thirty, or that the train departs at twenty-thirtyeight.

VisasCitizens of EU and EEA countries do not need visas to enter Germany; most others do. For more details, visit the website of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, www.auswaertiges-amt.de. Germany is part of the Schengen treaty, which allows free flow of goods and traffic between member states. This means that your passport only gets checked when entering and leaving the Schengen area, and once you’re in, you can travel overland from Portugal to Finland without being stopped at the borders.

With the launch of Moscow In Your Pocket now imminent, check out what we have to offer in the Russian capital at www.inyourpocket.com: the full content of Moscow IYP is now online. There are also online guides to Sarajevo and Banja Luka, Bosnia to enjoy, ahead of print editions to both cities, to be launched in October and November. Elsewhere, Glasgow In Your Pocket is in the final throes of preparation: expect the guide to hit newsstands before Christmas. The biggest news of all though at In Your Pocket is our new, much improved website, coming soon to public beta. Check it out at beta.inyourpocket.com, and let us know what you think via email:[email protected] is our address.

Europe In Your Pocket

Sco


8 CULTURE & EVENTS


9CULTURE & EVENTS


Art GalleriesDeichtorhallen H-3, Deichtorstr. 1-2, MSteinstr., tel. 32 10 30, www.deichtorhallen.de. Apparently one of the best-known exhibition galleries in the world, these two former market halls make up some 6,000m2 of exhibition space. Deichtorstr. 1 is given over to contemporary art, whilst Deichtorstr. 2 focuses primarily on photography, although at the time of writing it was showing a wonderful Charlie Chaplin retrospective complete with photographs and films. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Hamburg CARD

3-Tage-Karte | 3-Day-Ticket

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CinemasGrindel UFA-Palast Grindelberg 7a, Harvestehude, tel. 44 93 33, www.ufa-grindel.de. Popular American and German films are shown here, with a sneak preview night on Tuesdays. Check to see the language the film is in first. Reserve seats ahead on weekends. Students receive a discount.

ShowsDirty Dancing B/C-1, Neue Flora, Stresemannstr. 159a, tel. 4131 697 23 66. Enjoy over 50 songs from the 1960s to 1980s in this popular film-inspired musical. Q Shows at 20:00, Wed 18:30, Sat 15.00 and 20.00, Sun 14.30 and 19.00. Tickets €24,90-109,90.Lion King E-4, Theater im Hafen, Norderelbstr. 6, tel. 01805 44 44. You will have to take a boat to the theatre to see this long-running musical based on the Disney film. Q Shows at Tue, Wed 18.30, Thu, Fri 20:00, Sat 15.00 and 20.00, Sun 14.00 and 19.00. Tickets €54,95-115,40.

Theatre & OperaEnglish Theatre Lerchenfeld 14, MMundsburg, tel. 227 70 89, www.englishtheatre.de. Founded by two Americans in 1976, the English Theatre of Hamburg is a private, professional theatre putting on eight performances per week. The repertoir runs from classics to comedy and thrillers. Tickets bought online are cheaper. Q Performances Mon-Sat 19:30; Tue, Fri also 11:00. Tickets €23-28.50, matinees €15.State Opera F-2, Dammtorstr. 28, MGänsemarkt, tel. 35 68 68, www.hamburgische-staatsoper.de. Enjoy operas and ballets written or inspired by Mozart, Shakespeare and others. The building from the outside looks somehow not classic enough for the pieces that are performed nightly. However, the interior is elaborate and inspiring. Students can buy discounted tickets on the night of performance. Q Box office open 10:00-18:30, closed Sun. Also: 90 minutes before each show. Hamburg CARD


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Classical music5 Nov, 19:30 LMAnne-Sophie Mutter (violin), Lambert Orkis (piano)

7 Nov, 20:00 LMKlassikPhilharmonie HamburgConductor: Robert Stehli

8 Nov, 19:00 LMPhilharmonia Choir Hamburg

9 Nov, 18:00 SHAnton Bruckner – Mass in f-minor and Te Deum

9 Nov, 18:00 SMBenjamin Britten: War Requiem

13 & 14 Nov, 20:00 LMNDR-SinfonieorchesterConductor: Christoph von Dohnányi

18 Nov, 19:30 LMG. F. Händel: SaulCamber Orchestra Carl Philipp Emanuel Bach

21 Nov, 20:00 LMEmerson String Quartet, USA

22 Nov, 18:00 SMJohannes Brahms: A German requiemBach Weeks 2008

24 Nov, 20:00 LM3rd philharmonic concert - Philharmonisches Staatsor-chester HamburgConductor: Michael Schønwandt

25 Nov, 19:30 LMLondon Philharmonic OrchestraConductor: Vladimir Jurowski

25 Nov, 20:00 LMEmerson String Quartet USAMenahem Pressler (piano)

26 Nov, 19:30 LMMartha Argerich (piano)Mischa Maisky (violoncello)

30 Nov, 20:00 LMPhilippe Jaroussky and Concerto Köln

1 Dec, 20:00 LMNDR-SinfonieorchesterConductor: James Conlon

4 Dec, 19:30 LMAlfred Brendel (piano)SWR Sinfonieorchester

5 Dec, 20:00 LMNDR-SinfonieorchesterConductor: Esa-Pekka Salonen

9 Dec LMHélène Grimaud (piano)Works by Beethoven and Bach

12 Dec, 20:00 LMTrio Jean Paul

13 Dec, 20:00 LMJosé Carreras - Mediterranean PassionNeue Philharmonie Frankfurt, Conductor: David Giménez

15 Dec, 20:00 LM4. Philharmonisches Konzert - Philharmonisches Staat-sorchester HamburgConductor: Simone Young

18 Dec, 20:00 CCHelmut Lotti

18 Dec, 20:00 LMChristmas Proms - The Special Christmas GalaHamburger Symphoniker

22 Dec, 20:00 LMNDR-SinfonieorchesterConductor: Alan Gilbert

25 Dec, 20:00 CCThe Ten TenorsNostalgica - A Journey of Musical Memories

27 Dec, 19:30 LMSol Gabetta (violoncello)Basel Chamber Orchestra

Concerts8 Nov, 19:00 GFMogwai / The Twilight Sad (Rock)

12 Nov, 21:00 FA

Living Colour / Lord Bishop Rocks (Rock)

12 Nov, 20:00 UGRoots Manuva (Hip Hop)

13 Nov, 20:00 KNFrank Spilker Gruppe / Joan as Police Woman (Pop)

15 Nov, 18:00 DC4Lyn / Silver / The Cumshots (Rock)Hello Tour 2008 Part 2

15 Nov, 21:00 MHNorthern Lite / Noblesse Oblige (Pop, Rock)Super Black Tour 2008

18 Nov, 19:30 ASAlice Cooper / Whitesnake (Rock)

18 Nov, 21:00 KSThe Black Seeds (Reggae)Solid Ground European Release Tour 2008

19 Nov, 21:00 FAAnne Clark (Synth Pop)The Smallest Acts of Kindness Tour

21 & 22 Nov, 20:00 GFTomte (Pop)

22 Nov, 19:00 GSKeziah Jones (Funk)

24 Nov, 20:00 CLElton John (Pop)

AM - Altonaer Museum, Museumstr. 23, tel . 428113582, www.altonaermuseum.de Hamburg CARD


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AS - Alsterdorfer Sporthalle, Krochmannstr. 55, tel. 35693111, www.alsterdorfer-sporthalle.deCC - CCH Congress Centrum Hamburg, Marseiller Straße, tel. 356 90, www.cch.deCL - Color Line Arena, Sylvesterallee 10, tel. 30 05 10, www.colorline-arena.comDC - Docks Club, Spielbudenplatz 19, tel. 3178830, www.docks.deFA - Fabrik, Barnerstr. 36, tel. 391070, www.fabrik.deGF - Große Freiheit 36, Große Freiheit 36, tel. 317 88 30, www.grossefreiheit36.deGS - Grünspan, Große Freiheit 58, tel. 313616, www.gruenspan.deKH - Hamburger Kunsthalle, Glockengießerwall, tel. 428131200, www.hamburger-kunsthalle.deKN - Kampnagel, Jarrestr. 20, tel. 2709490, www.kampnagel.deKS - Knust im Schlachthof, Neuer Kamp 30, tel. 43276451, www.knusthamburg.deLM - Laeiszhalle-Musikhalle Hamburg, Johannes-Brahms-Platz, tel. 34 69 20, www.laeiszhalle.deMH - Markthalle Hamburg, Klosterwall 11, tel. 33 94 91, www.markthalle-hamburg.deMM - Museum für Kommunikation Hamburg, Gorch-Fock-Wall 1, tel. 3576360, www.museumsstiftung.deSH - St. Petri Hauptkirche, Speersort 10, tel. 3257400, www.sankt-petri.deSM - St. Michaelis, Krayenkamp 4c, tel. 376780, www.st-michaelis.deUG - Uebel & Gefährlich, Feldstraße 66, www.uebe-lundgefaehrlich.com

Venue list

Its possible to see several musicals in Hamburg, though only a handful are in English. Some Stage Entertainment productions make an entertaining night out despite the texts being in German. The Lion King show, based on the Disney classic about Simba the lion, features the hit song ‘Hakuna Matata’. From 19 October, Hamburg also hosts the musical Tarzan, with music by Phil Collins. Lion King shows run at Tue, Wed 18:30, Thu, Fri 20:00, Sat 15:00 and 20:00, Sun 14:00 and 19:00. Tarzan will run Tue, Thu,Fri 20:00, Wed 18:30, Sat 15:00 and 20:00, Sun 14:00 and 19:00. Tickets and information tel. 01805 44 44, www.stage-entertainment.de.

Hamburg musicals

From 21 December until 11 January the renowned Chinese Hebei Circus will perform in a special tent on Hamburg’s Heiligengeistfeld square. In their two-hour show named ‘Heaven and Earth’ the artists of the Hebei Circus dazzle the audience with acrobatics, powerful and energetic performances, colourful costumes and imaginative choreography. The circus has no animals or clowns, but makes up with juggling, snake people, balancing acts and martial arts, involving umbrellas, rings, silk cloths, plates, tyres and swords. Hebei, a Germany-sized province of 65 million people in central China, is proud of its circus traditions and its travelling artists, and holds a bi-annual acrobatics competition that attracts the world top. Tickets for the circus show can be bought at local ticket offices and via www.der-kartenvorverkauf.de. For more information see www.power-concerts.de/hebei.htm.

Chinese Circus

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CULTURE & EVENTS 11


November 20087 November - 7 DecemberHamburger Winterdom – “Dommarkt” FestivalHeiligengeistfeld

24 November - 23 DecemberChristmas in HamburgHistorical Christmas market on RathausmarktTraditional Christmas markets on Spitalerstraße, St. Petri-Kirche, Gerhart-Hauptmann-Platz. Hanseatic Christmas market on GänsemarktWinterzauber fair on JungfernstiegFleetinsel-MarktWinter fun in front of the Deichtorhallen

29 November - 7 DecemberYou and your worldConsumer fairHamburg Messe

December 20085-7 DecemberModellbauwelt HamburgFair for car, railway, plane and ship model buildingHamburg Messe

12-14 DecemberMineralien hamburgInternational fair for minerals, fossils, precious stones and jewelleryHamburg Messe

Ask for more information about events in Hamburg at:Hamburg Tourismus GmbHPostfach 10 22 49, 20015 HamburgTel. 040/300 51 300Fax 040/300 [email protected]

2008 HIGHLIGHTS

25 Nov, 20:00 CCTracy Chapman (singer / songwriter)Her first solo tour for over a decade.

26 Nov, 21:00 DCThe Roots (Hip Hop)

29 Nov, 21:00 FAGogol Bordello (Gypsypunk)Super Taranta Tour

5 Dec, 19:00 GFPublic Enemy (Hip Hop)

8 Dec, 20:00 ASBabyshambles (Rock)

9 Dec, 20:00 ASKid Rock (Rock)

20 & 21 Dec, 20:00 DCDeichkind (TechRap)Arbeit nervt Tour 2008

ExhibitionsUntil 4 January 2009 MMGlobalisation 2.0

Until 11 January 2009 KHMax Ernst - Une semaine de bonté

Until 7 June 2009 AMA panorama of the River Elbe

www.inyourpocket.comThe English Theatre of Hamburg, located north-east of the centre near Mundsburg U-Bahn station, is a professional theatre that was founded in 1976. Until 15 November you can see the play Treats by Chris-topher Hampton, an intelligent, witty play about sexual manners and manipulation. Why do people make the wrong decisions in matters of love? Ann has tried to free hersel f from Dave by taking on a new lover, Patrick, while Dave is away in Iraq. Now back in London, Dave is enraged. He is determined to win back his girl, forcing Ann to choose between the two young men. Will she return to charismatic Dave who abuses and cheats on her, or stay with nice-but-dul l Patrick? First staged in London in 1976, the play was revived successfully in 2007 in this updated version.

Bet ween 27 November 2008 and 7 Februar y 2009, the English Theatre puts on Ray Cooney’s comedy Caught in the Net, about John Smith, a taxi driver who keeps two separate families in di f-ferent parts of London. When his teenaged children accidentally meet on the Internet and plan to see each other in person, John’s already complicated l i fe becomes absolutely hectic. Can he manage to keep his double li fe a secret from the kids and his two wives? English Theatre, Lerchenfeld 14, M Mundsburg, tel. 227 70 89, www.englishtheatre.de.

English Theatre

The BallinStadt ‘emigration city’ museum focuses on the mass emigration from Europe to the New World, when over 5 million people left from Hamburg harbour. This Christmas, the museum focuses on one German emigrant, Thomas Nast from Landau, who arrived in the US as a six-year-old boy in 1846. In New York he soon becomes one of the most important American caricaturists, whose art and wit have influenced six presidential elections, who invented the dollar symbol and the donkey logo for the Democrat party. Thomas Nast is best known for inventing Santa Claus’ new American image. Basing the fat, bearded man on the Saint Nicholas who is well-known in Germany and the Low Countries, Nast drew Santa first on the cover of Harper’s Weekly magazine in 1862, visiting a soldier’s camp. At the time, the Civil War was raging and Nast used Santa as a kind figure representing Christmas, and from then on Santa’s popularity skyrocketed. Nast was to draw a Santa cover for Harper’s every year for 30 years, and all 30 drawings are now on show at the BallinStadt museum.

BallinStadt, Veddeler Bogen 2, tel. 31 97 91 60, www.ballinstadt.de.

Santa Claus, emigrant from BallinStadt


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12 WHERE TO STAY


13WHERE TO STAY


P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted

O Casino H Conference facilities

T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet W Wi-Fi L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant M Nearest S/U-Bahn station

D Sauna C Swimming pool

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The hotel categories are based on the most expensive double room rack rate price. All prices include VAT and breakfast unless mentioned otherwise. The room prices that we list are rack rates; the price you pay may be different depending on the season, holidays, weekend offers, and special events like trade fairs.A good option to book your hotel room in Hamburg is via our booking partner HAMBURG TRAVEL.To do so please use the form below.

Over €200 Abtei Abteistr. 14, MKlosterstern, tel. 44 29 05, fax 44 98 20, [email protected], www.abtei-hotel.de. Situated close to the Outer Alster, this private hotel offers impeccably clean rooms full of beautiful antiques in a century-old villa. Its style is somehow reminiscent of English countryside manors. To continue the experience, stop by the Prinz Frederick restaurant for a “Traditional English Dinner.” Q (singles €145 - 165, 11 doubles €180 - 295, suites €295). PAGK

Atlantic Hotel Kempinski Hamburg H-2, An der Alster 72-79, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 288 80, fax 24 71 29, [email protected], www.atlantic.de. The Atlantic has earned its reputation as one of Germany’s grandest hotels. The marble décor, beautiful bedrooms, front-seat view to the Außenalster and impressive guest list, including James Bond in “Tomorrow Never Dies“, help explain why. A worthy expense for those with money to spare. Q (25 singles €169 - 185, 130 doubles €209 - 225, suites €400). PHAFLGKDCW

Crowne Plaza I-1, Graumannsweg 10, tel. 22 80 60, fax 220 87 04, [email protected], www.crowneplaza.com. This large hotel offers almost 300 rooms with all the amenities a big hotel should have: the fitness centre, bar, restaurant and sauna make it easy to stay local. A good choice for businessmen involved in conferences at the nearby CCH Congress Center. Bus No. 6 to Graumannsweg. Q 285 rooms (from €99). PHAFLGDCW

Dorint Sofitel Am Alten Wall Hamburg F-3, Alter Wall 40, MRödingsmarkt, tel. Tel. 36 95 00, fax 369 50 10 00, [email protected], www.sofitel.com. Exquisite taste and bags of luxury, the wonderful Sofitel comes with more good things than most people get in a lifetime. Boasting its own wharf, the very best in hi-tech rooms with

a bath and separate shower in each, concierge, dry cleaning service, fitness centre, swimming, pool, sauna and solarium this five-star wonder even welcomes your pets with open arms. Exceedingly central location too. Q (43 singles €119 - 245, 101 doubles €119 - 265, 15 suites €219 - 445). PTHAUFLGKDCW

East Hotel D-3, Simon-Von-Utrecht-Str. 31, MSt. Pauli, tel. 30 99 30, fax 30 99 32 00, [email protected], www.east-hotel.de. Choose from small to XXL rooms at this eastern-inspired hotel. Rooms are done in dark relaxing hues with plenty of attention to detail. However, should you need to get out of your room check out the rooftop terrace or Dedon Island - the hotels own answers to relaxation. Some might find the golf simulator alone worthy of a visit. Q (103 doubles €150 - 355). PHAFGKD

E u r o p ä i s c h e r H o f H - 2 , K i r c h e n a l l e e 4 5 , MHauptbahnhof, tel. 248 247 24, fax 248 247 99, [email protected], www.europaeischer-hof.de. Established in 1925, this hotel was rebuilt in 1948 after being destroyed in the war. It now ranks as one of Hamburg’s largest hotels with over 500 beds. Rooms are relatively small and clean and the interior is typical for a large hotel. Enjoy the squash courts and golf simulator in the Euro-Therme - reserved for hotel guests. Q (120 singles €105 - 153, 200 doubles €135 - 220). PHAFLGKDCW

Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten Neuer Jungfernstieg 9-14, MGänsemarkt, tel. 349 40, fax 34 94 26 00, [email protected], www.hvj.de. The height of luxury as endorsed by some of its former guests including Sir Peter Ustinov after whom a wonderful suite is named, even the small singles here are superb. The rooms are really well designed, with smart wooden cupboards concealing the latest electronic gadgets and balconies overlooking the water. Another sign that this isn’t your typical hotel are the in-house bars and restaurants, frequented daily by the cream of the local community. Q (29 singles €220 - 315, 95 doubles €270 - 375, 33 suites €465 - 4000). PTHAFLGKDW

Grand Elysée F-1, Rothenbaumchaussee 10, MDammtor, tel. 41 41 20, fax 41 41 27 33, [email protected], www.elysee.de. The bay, business, alcove and large corner rooms here are almost all styled in neutral colours with large windows. Take advantage of cosmetic or wellness luxuries after a day of sightseeing for a few extra euros. One of four different restaurants and bars will also satisfy any late night cravings. Check to see when live piano music or jazz is scheduled. Q (511 doubles €159 - 216). PHAKDC

All hotels marked with can be easily booked at great rates with our partner Hamburg Travel, online at www.hamburg-travel.de/en or by telephone: +49-40-30051300.

Greifswalder Str. 310405 Berlin-Prenzlauer Berg(near Alexanderplatz)

Tel: +49 30 4172 4172www.alex-hotel.de

Single room from 72 € Double room from 82 €

All rooms with shower/WC, TV and WLAN Breakfast till 12:00 incl.

„welcome to feel at home”

Esplanade HotelHohenstaufenring 56

50674 Kölnphone: 0049-221-9215570

fax: 0049-221-216822e-mail: [email protected]

www.hotelesplanade.de(online booking possibility)

JvM

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WHERE TO STAY 15WHERE TO STAY


Hamburg Marriott F-2, ABC-Straße 52, MGänsemarkt, tel. 35 05 17 00, fax 35 05 17 77, [email protected], www.marriott.de. With its regal corridors, piano bar and fancy swimming pool, the Marriot simply oozes sophistication. Superbly located, with rooms with baths throughout, big wooden beds, classical design and all the trimmings to boot, one could almost say this place is original. It’s certainly better than most hotels in the city that’s for sure. Q (203 singles €149 - 249, 65 doubles €149 - 249, 9 suites €289 - 338). PHAUFLGKDCW

InterContinental G-1, Fontenay 10, MDammtor, tel. 414 20, fax 41 42 22 99, [email protected], www.ichotelsgroup.com. You can rely on the international reputation of the InterContinental wherever your travels take you, and Hamburg’s hotel may even exceed its reputation with its proximity to the Alster and walking distance to the ci ty centre. Rooms are clean and simple and the restaurants and bars give you another option to explore. Q PHAFLGKDCW

Le Royal Meridien H-2, An der Alster 52-56, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 210 00, fax 21 00 11 11, l rmhambur [email protected], w w w.hambur g.lemeridien.com. A delightfully di fferent lobby stuffed full of books and ar t awaits guests inside this very regal enti ty. The smashing rooms are in their own words ar t and tech, coming with coffee and tea maker, minibar, satelli te television, ul tra-fast in ternet connections, bathrobes and slippers. Expect the highest standards and the added bonus of a wonderful rooftop bar with superb views over the water. Q PHALGKDW

Louis C. Jacob Elbchaussee 401, tel. 82 25 50, fax 82 25 54 44, [email protected], www.hotel-jacob.de. Leave life behind and enter royalty. The hotel in the historical mansion prides itself on its extensive wine cellar and displays of local art. Rooms are French-inspired and many have a direct view of the Elbe. Staff is friendly and will help you with all bookings. Take advantage of the limousine service on nights out. Q (16 singles €148 - 195, 51 doubles €168 - 375, 18 suites €228 - 1185). PHALGKDW

Mercure an der Messe E-1, Schröderstif tstr. 3, tel./fax 45 06 90, [email protected], www.accorhotels.com. Wi th 180 rooms, this hotel stil l manages to maintain some sense of individuality in i ts sleeping quarters. The modern, clean lobby leads to a set of minimalist and clutter-free rooms. Take a stroll across the street to Hamburg’s famed “Planten und Blomen” or access the city centre within minutes of leaving the hotel. The Olive Tree restaurant offers Mediterranean dishes. Q (180 doubles €62 - 255). PHALGK

Park Hyatt Hamburg H-3, Bugenhagenstr. 8, MMönckebergstr., tel. 33 32 12 34, fax 33 32 12 35, [email protected], hamburg.park.hyatt.com. Lots of tropical hardwoods and wrought iron in the lobby, a great central location, a man in a cape and top hat to grin you in, and breathtakingly cheerful staff. With luscious carpeted corridors, awesome standards, DVD players and some great views of the city’s main shopping street you get the best of Hyatt as well as a wonderful place to base yourself at the same time. Q (176 doubles €185 - 285, 29 suites €335 - 435, 30 apartments €110 - 120). PTAUFLGKDCW

R a d i s s o n S A S F - 1 / 2 , M a r s e i l l e r s t r . 2 , MStephansplatz, tel. 350 20, fax 35 02 35 30, [email protected], www.radissonsas.com. A huge beast lurking inside a nice park, exceedingly popular with business professionals in town for the big conferences and fairs, and with a baffling mirrored lobby. Some may not favour the slightly sterile Radisson approach to design, but remember the Radisson likes to say yes. Take advantage of the fact. Two good things here are the view (you can’t beat it) and the 26th-floor bar. Q PHAUFLGKDCW

Side Drehbahn 49, MGänsemarkt, tel. 30 99 90, fax 30 99 95 01, [email protected], www.side-hamburg.de. Managing to stay just the right side of pretentious rubbish thanks to plenty of humourous touches to the sci-fi design, Side looks a bit like a 25th-century intergalactic waiting room. The rooms start from the lowest Superiors through to XXL suites that continue with the avant-garde theme. As you’d expect, amenities are awesome, including a yellow spa complete with special 15-minute massages for those who need a little unwinding during their lunch breaks. Wonderful. Q PTHAUFGKDCW

Steigenberger Hotel Hamburg Heiligengeistbrücke 4, MRödingsmarkt, tel. 36 80 60, fax 36 80 67 77, [email protected], www.hamburg.steigenberger.de. A gloriously swish hotel with impeccable staff behind an elegant red brick facade. If you’ve really got money to burn then check out one of the luxury suites, bigger than most hotels with all the amenities one would expect from a luxury apartment. The Calla restaurant serves Euro-Asian dishes, and the top-floor spa has a spectacular panorama sauna. A great central location next to the water too. Q (singles €200 - 245, doubles €220 - 265, suites €285 - 550). PHAUFGKDW

Suitehotel Hamburg City: Lübeckertordamm 2 20099 HamburgTel.: +49(0)40/271 40 - [email protected]

www.suite-hotel.com

*Per suite per night for 1-2 persons

Enjoy the Space

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Suitehotel Lübeckertordamm 2, tel. 27 14 00, fax 27 14 01 40, [email protected], www.suite-hotel.de. A hostel-like lobby with receptionists doubling as barmaids betrays the treats in store upstairs. A sky-high hotel full of suites, some rather small and others more like apartments, all coming with microwave ovens, funky designs and prefabricated plastic bathrooms that remind you of having a shower in a caravan. Free internet in the lobby plus coffee and croissants for breakfast. Q (186 suites €53 - 199). PAFLGW

Suitehotel Renaissance Ham-burg F-3, Grosse Ble-i c h e n , M R a t h a u s , tel. 34 91 89 51, fax 24 91 89 69, w w w.renaissance-hamburg.com. The time of being

ashamed of 1980s design is over, and the Renaissance is proud that the fabulously swirly wall designs in the suite can otherwise only be seen at New York’s MOMA. Set inside the landmark brick Expressionist Broschek-Haus, the business-oriented hotel has comfortable guest rooms with designer beds, large desks and wifi. Q (45 singles €145 - 250, 80 doubles €145 - 250, 14 suites €300 - 400). PTHAFLGKDW

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16


WHERE TO STAY 17WHERE TO STAY


€150-200 Clipper Elb-Lodge B-4, Carsten-Rehder-Str. 71, MKönigstr, tel. 80 90 10, fax 80 90 19 99, [email protected], www.clipper-hotels.de/elblodge. Rooms are clean and stylish and tend to stray from the typical hotelesque interior. Many offer a view of the Elbe. There are suites that are aimed specifically at longer stays, and you’ll see prices drop if you promise to stay longer. And the vicinity to the water and the relaxing feel of the place may make you want to do just that. Q (57 doubles €119 - 197). PALDW

Garden Hotels Hamburg Magdalenenstr. 60, tel. 41 40 40, [email protected], www.gardenhotels.de. Rooms are located in three different buildings at this quaint hotel - the oldest from 1900. The hotel is slightly outside of the city centre, but you can easily access it via public transportation. Order a personally designed breakfast and eat it in your room, on the terrace or in the winter garden. Bus no. 109 to Böttgerstrasse. Q (27 singles €120 - 145, 30 doubles €135 - 185). HAG

Gastwerk Beim Alten Gaswerk/ Daimlerstr. 3, MBahrenfeld, tel. 89 06 20, fax 890 62 20, [email protected], www.gastwerk-hotel.de. With 135 rooms, the Gastwerk still manages to elude a welcoming feeling. Its carefully designed architecture and minimalist appeal will please those looking for a hotel with a slightly trendy feel. Pop into the resident Italian restaurant, Da Caio, for one of the best Italian meals around. Check out the “Chill Weekend” special. Breakfast buffet is extra, but don’t overlook this hotel because of that. Q (9 singles €127 - 167, 118 doubles €127 - 167, 14 suites €262 - 362). PHAGKW

Hote l Ha f en Hambur g Se ewar tenst r . 9 , MLandungsbrücken, tel. 31 11 30, fax 31 11 37 06 01, [email protected], www.hotel-hamburg.de. The hotel offers rooms overlooking the Landungsbrücke and the harbour (but make a special request). Furnishings are comfortable and contemporary. The real selling point is the location - visit the Tower Bar for a cocktail and a spectacular evening view of the well-lit harbour. Q (68 singles €100 - 200, 125 doubles €100 - 200). PAGKDW

Madison E-F/3, Schaarsteinweg 4, MBaumwall, tel. 37 66 60, fax 37 66 61 37, [email protected], www.madisonhotel.de. Within walking distance of the main sights with modern décor and a comfortable feel. All rooms are relatively spacious and bright and have bathtubs. Rooms range from the studio to the “Top of the Town” penthouse with a rooftop terrace. Don’t forget to take advantage of the extensive spa offerings. Q (54 singles €120 - 150, 83 doubles €120 - 170, 29 suites €240 - 280). PHAGKDCW

Nippon Hotel Hofweg 75, tel. 227 11 40, fax 22 71 14 90, [email protected], www.nippon-hotel-hh.de. Relax in the Japanese influences of this stylish hotel. The 41 rooms are extremely minimalistic and soothing. Rice-paper partitions line the windows and allow a subtle glow of light into the room. Definitely unique in its appeal. The Japanese restaurant, Wa-Yo is also worthy of a visit. Q (singles €98 - 121, 42 doubles €116 - 150). PHALGKW

relexa hotel Bellevue H-2, An der Alster 14, tel. 28 44 40, fax 28 44 42 22, [email protected], www.relexa-hotels.de. The quiet, neat halls of this hotel put you at ease even before you even enter the rooms. Decorations in rooms vary dramatically - all are clean but some more aesthetically pleasing and modern than others. Staff is friendly and helpful. Q PHAGK

Wedina Gurlittstr. 23, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 280 89 00, fax 280 38 94, [email protected], www.wedina.de. If you are looking for something colourful look no further - the Wedina is comprised of four different buildings, each in its own colour. All rooms are uniquely designed to avoid monotony and after a night or two you might just want to move in permanently. A Swiss breakfast is served each morning. Q (4 singles €70 - 145, 37 doubles €118 - 165, 13 suites €118 - 165). ALGW

€75-15025 Hours Paul-Dessau-Str. 2, MBahrenfeld, tel. 85 50 70, [email protected], www.25hours-hotel.de. This hip hotel is popular with the younger crowd and its prices reflect their budgets. Rooms come in small, medium and large sizes and bear the influence of young designers; most are minimalist and chic. The hotel restaurant is inspired by German and Italian cuisines. Hipsters might not even need to ever leave the hotel if looking for the trendy Hamburg scene. Q95 rooms (92 doubles €101 - 121, 3 suites €121 - 141). PKW hhhh

Aussen Alster H- I/2, Schmi l inskystr . 11, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 24 15 57, fax 280 32 31, [email protected], www.aussen-alster.de. Enjoy a cocktail in the summer garden, a bicycle ride or a sail on the hotel’s own boat which is docked on the nearby Alster. Such (free!) perks make this family-run hotel even more appealing. The white building dates back to the 1800s and has lost none of its original charm. While rooms are rather small, they are clean and enjoyable. There is a small bar if you would like to begin your night without leaving the hotel, and a small Italian restaurant. Q (3 singles €89 - 105, 24 doubles €120 - 150). HALKDW

Baseler Hof G-2, Esplanade 11, MStephansplatz, tel. 35 90 60, fax 35 90 69 18, [email protected], www.baselerhof.de. A popular place to stay with large tour groups as well as business travellers looking for something a little less bland that the average business class hotel, this is a good boutique hotel with lots of fun sculptures, basic standard singles with all mod cons, and a host of necessities from minibar to wireless internet. A former rest home for Nazi soldiers, all traces of its sinister past have

been obliterated. Free public transport tickets and internet in the lobby too. Q (100 singles €85 - 105, 64 doubles €115 - 135, 4 suites €179 - 189). PHALGKDW

F ü r s t B i s m a r c k H - 2 , K i r c h e n a l l e e 4 9 , MHauptbahnhof, tel. 280 10 91, fax 280 10 96, [email protected], www.fuerstbismarck.de. Quite the best location next to the Hauptbahnhof, don’t be put of by what (or who) you find in the lobby, for upstairs awaits quality renovated rooms with lots of fancy trimmings and some with great views. Highly recommended if you like clean rooms, cable television and getting good value for your money. Q (30 singles €80 - 95, 71 doubles €108 - 115). ALG

Graf Moltke H-2, Steindamm 1, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 280 11 54, fax 280 25 62, [email protected], www.hotel-graf-moltke.de. Rooms are well-li t though slightly outdated here. Biggest sell is the central location and reasonable prices - perfect if you are in Hamburg to see the city and not spending a lot of time in your room. The staff is friendly and can point you in the right direction. A large breakfast buffet is included. Q (13 singles €77 - 79, 55 doubles €87 - 99, 21 triples €108 - 125). HAG

Hanseatin E-F/2, Dragonerstall 11, MGänsemarkt, tel. 34 13 45, fax 34 58 25, [email protected], www.frauenhotel.de. Looking for an excuse to get away from your man? Tell him he is not allowed at this hotel - and he really isn’t. Situated in a preserved Hamburg landmark, this hotel has a charm all its own. Pop on over to the “Frauencafé endlich” (Women Café Finally) for Sunday brunch. Not a good place for those looking to meet men. Q (6 singles €49, 7 doubles €99).


Together wi th In Your Pocket, the city’s hotel concierges are important sources of information for travellers. Recognised by the golden crossed keys on the lapels of their jackets, good concierges will be able to give you restaurant and sightseeing tips, and can book event tickets for you. In this issue, we speak to Amedeo Musto D’Amore, concierge of the Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten Hamburg. Mr. Musto D’Amore literally worked his way up from the wine cellar of the Vier Jah-reszeiten hotel, via various other jobs, to become the chef-concierge 31years ago.

This makes our hotel special... This exclusive hotel is beloved by the locals, a real Hamburggänschen as they say, and is one of the best hotels internationally. Tradition combined with modern services makes our hotel an exclusive jewel.Guests’ requests... I get many kinds of questions. It’s not the responding to special requests that make a good concierge, rather answering the normal ones in a fast but subtle and discrete way so that the guest and I are both satisfied. One strange request, many years ago, came from an Arab guest who wanted to export German cows to his country to start a cattle farm there – and so began a search for suppliers, arranging meetings, taking care of paperwork and veterinary permits... and then the sheik was not amused to find out that the cows also needed to stay in quarantine for a long period of time after arrival too.Special restaurants I recommend... There’s no need to leave the Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten for a good meal: the grill restaurant serves exclusive Hamburg cui-sine, and upscale cooking can be had at Haerlin. Asian tastes are catered to in the Doc Cheng restaurant. But I’m always willing to recommend places outside the hotel after hearing the guests’ preferences. In Your Pocket... Is one of the institutions that conveys the essence of Hamburg to foreign visitors. It makes the work of concierges much easier, as readers of Hamburg In Your Pocket approach us with much more specific questions.

Meet the concierge

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WHERE TO STAY 19


RESTAURANTSHamburg’s restaurant scene offers varied and on the whole excellent food. Note that many restaurants do not accept credit cards, though perhaps debit cards.

Asian Bok D-2, Schanzenstr. 27, MSternschanze, tel. 430 67 80, [email protected], www.bokgmbh.com. Hamburg’s own version of a restaurant chain has 4 locations in the city. All provide an extensive menu of Chinese, Japanese, Korean and Thai dishes. A popular place due to its reasonable prices, tasty mains and pleasing atmosphere. A reservation at the weekend is recommended. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. P

Cha Cha F-2/3, Große Bleichen 16, MJungfernstieg, tel. 822 28 70 80, [email protected], www.eatchacha.com. A great place to stop by for tasty Thai food. The long wooden tables compliment the simple surroundings and leave open the possibility that you might be sitting next to someone you don’t know. But that makes it much more interesting. The six categories on the menu consist of salads, soups, currys, fried, fusions and desserts. Something for everyone. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. P

Chilli Club G-4, Am Sandtorkai 54, MBaumwall, tel. 35703580, www.chilliclub.de. A chill lounge with chilli flavour. This Asian place is everything at once - it’s a restaurant serving freshly made wok dishes, dim sum, sushi, and Asian tapas, a lounge bar with cocktails, wine and DJs spinning relaxed music, and to top it all off there’s a lovely waterfront terrace with red cushions for enjoying summer sunsets. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Lounge open daily from 12:00.

Doi Falkenried 30, MHoheluftbrücke, tel. 30 03 38 38, [email protected], www.doi-hamburg.de. This Thai/Italian inspired restaurant gets its name from the highest point in Thailand (1676m, if you want to impress the waitress). Exotic fruits and curry flavours adorn the dishes and the black and white decor adds to the overall soothing atmosphere. Try a black noodle bolognese accompanied by an Italian wine and followed by a Tiramisu. Bus N°5 to Eppendorfer Weg. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 15:00 - 24:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon.

Fusion F-2, Drehbahn 49, MGänsemarkt, tel. 30 99 90, [email protected]. A hotel restaurant that serves lemon ravioli with Asian vegetables and ginger curry sauce for breakfast can’t be bad. The Side hotel’s in-house food joint is, in fact, better than not bad. With row upon row of dinky white seats and a cool minimalist interior the whole place could easily turn to kitsch but is saved by some great Asian food and the fact that they don’t employ dopey supermodels as waitresses. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 06:00 - 23:00. A

Kham I-2, Lange Reihe 97, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 28 00 48 68. A smallish restaurant on two floors with a Tibetan chef, and dealing primarily in Tibetan food, but also cooking other Asian cuisine. The menu includes sushi, vegetarian dishes, Thai curry and noodles as well as green tea and sake. The food is good, reasonably priced, and comes with a compli-mentary soup starter. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. A

Sala Thai H-2, Brandsende 6, tel. 33 50 09, www.sal-athai.de. Eating in this Thai restaurant is done the authentic way, with just spoons and forks and seated on cushions if you so wish. Sala has two outlets in central Hamburg, both getting rave reviews about the food, made fresh to order, and the presentation - service with a smile. Also at G-4, Am Kaiserkai 1, tel. 32 39 09.

Cafés C a f é b a r J u l i C / D - 1 , S c h u l t e r b l a t t 1 1 4 , MSternschanze, tel. 43 21 46 96, [email protected], www.cafebar-juli.de. A fantastic-looking place with dark red walls, psychadelic lampshades and strange portraits on the walls, Cafebar Juli is both a hip place to eat quality breakfast and well as one of the better venues in the area for evening drinks amdist the jangle of some of the city’s more eclectic DJs. Q Mon-Fri from 10:00, Sat, Sun from 11:00.

Café Paris Rathausstr. 4, MRathaus, tel. 32 52 77 77. Dating from 1882 this wonderful tiled old butchers shop is notable for many good and interesting things. Generall y packed wi th a mixed crowd of ar ty people and the occasional local character, there’s no piped music, the staff speak French and you’re almost guaranteed to stumble into a lively conversation at the bar. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00.

Die Rösterei G-3, Mönckebergstraße 7, tel. 30 39 37 35, www.die-roesterei.com. The aroma of freshly roasted coffee beans is irresistible in this charming, classic café. Open for breakfast, lunch and light meals throughout the day, there are newspapers to browse and plenty of delicious cakes to sample. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

G l o r i a D - 1 , B e l l e a l l i a n c e s t r . 3 1 - 3 3 , MChristuskirche, tel. 43 29 04 64, www.gloriabar.de. Cool lights and cool people fill up this café dail y. Si t at the counter on a 50s-inspired stool and sample a tasty breakfast, lunch or dinner. Brunch is served from 11-4 on Sundays and offers qui te a variety of seemingl y heal thy options. Q Mon-Fri from 10:00, Sat, Sun from 11:00.

Jena Paradies H-3, Klosterwall 23, MSteinstr., tel. 32 70 08, www.jena-paradies.net. A classic German café with some extremely bizarre lighting and a small daily menu of meat, pasta, veal and one or two delicious desserts and homemade cakes. Popular with a slightly older crowd, it’s also worth popping in for a decent cup of coffee and a crusty baguette. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.

Literaturhaus Café I-1, Schwanenwik 38, tel. 220 13 00, mail@literaturhauscaf e.de, w w w.literaturhauscafe.de. A perfect stop for food and book aficionados. The café is located in a grand, old Hamburg house with Alster-front property. Perfect place to read a book over a cup of coffee or to have an elegant dinner. Patrons are equall y well-read and sophisticated, so you’ll fi t right in. Bus N°6 to Averhoffstr. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. A

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted

E Live music S Take away

T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking

O Casino M Nearest S/U-Bahn station

R Internet W Wi-Fi connection

Symbol key

Hotel Alpha H-2, Koppel 4-6, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 24 53 65, fax 24 37 94, [email protected], www.hotel-pension-alpha.de. A basic albeit friendly guesthouse just around the corner from the Hauptbahnhof run by a charming family. The rooms have seen better days and are perhaps a little too chintzy for some, but with a choice of en suite and shared bathroom facilities, satellite television and a home-like atmosphere this is certainly worth considering if you prefer the kind of personal touch that didn’t get its training at hotel school. Recommended. Q (7 singles €34 - 44, 7 doubles €68 - 78, 2 quads €112). ALG

Hotel am Rothenbaum Rothenbaumchaussee 107, MHallerstr., tel. 44 60 06, fax 44 93 74, [email protected], www.hotel-am-rothenbaum.de. A small hotel in Harvestehude with 28 rooms in varying size. Most are done in muted tones and are comfortable and clean. Prices are very reasonable and a good breakfast buffet is included. A short walk will take you to the Outer Alster. Q (19 singles €99, 9 doubles €115). PA

Hotel Schwanenwik Schwanenwik 29, tel. 220 09 18, fax 229 04 46, [email protected], www.hotel-schwanenwik.de. A hotel with reasonable rates and clean, quaint quarters. With only eighteen rooms to fill, the house feels quite personable. The staff is friendly and inviting and eager to answer any questions. Thehotel is located directly on the Alster bank and shopping is not far either. For those travelling on a budget, but who don’t want to sacrifice quality. Bus No.6 to Mundsburgerbrücke. Q18 rooms (7 singles €44 - 68, 11 doubles €66 - 90). AL

Ibis Hambur g Alster H-2, Holzdamm 4-12, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 24 82 90, fax 24 82 97 34, [email protected], www.ibishotel.com. Easy to find thanks to the huge electronic sign outside flashing away the room rates, Hamburg’s Ibis, despite recently receiving a half-star upgrade, remains your classic identikit Ibis. Notable as the most expensive Ibis in Germany the price is still a good one considering it’s practically rubbing shoudlers with the hauptbahnhof and is in easy walking distance of practically everything. Add-ons include a wireless internet, a rather dreary bar and free internet in the lobby. Q (65 singles €79 - 88, 100 doubles €94 - 112). PALW

Oper F-2, Drehbahn 15-23, MGänsemarkt, tel. 35 60 10, fax 35 60 13 10, [email protected], www.hotel-oper.de. Extremely popular, meaning we never got a chance to have a look inside any of the 120 rooms or suites, this budget hotel right in the city centre offers clean albeit unrenovated comfort with en suite facilities, soundproof windows and charming receptionists for the price. Catering is provided courtesy of the Chinese restaurant next door. Q (10 singles €55 - 76, 80 doubles €66 - 110, 2 apartments €175 - 315). ALGKW

Under €75 Residence Hamburg I-2, Steindamm 24-26, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 280 03 60, fax 28 00 36 36, www.hotel-residence-hamburg.de. All the rooms in this 3-star hotel are similar to each other in design - slightly sterile but nonetheless comfortable. Prices reflect the simplicity, though. Central location is what makes this a worthy stay. If looking for convenience on a budget, you have found the right place. Q (3 singles €49, 12 doubles €69, 5 triples €99 - 105, 4 quads €110 - 120). ALGW

Hostels Instant Sle ep B-2, Max-Brauer -Al le e 277, MSternschanze, tel. 43 18 23 10, fax 43 18 23 11, [email protected], www.instantsleep.de. Located centrally above the Bar Rossi in the Schanzenviertel, this low-budget pension is perfect for the backpacker. Women can opt for separate accommodations. Breakfast is not offered and there is a mandatory €2 charge for bedding. With the money you save in overall price, you can still afford both though. Q (3 doubles €22 - 28, 5 triples €20, 1 quad €18, 1 5 €18 -, 1 8 €17 -, 1 25 €15 - ).

Schanzenstern Bartelstr. 24-26, MSternschanze, tel. 439 84 41, fax 439 34 13, [email protected], www.schanzenstern.de. Choose from a choice of a single to a five-person room or share a dormitory room, but be sure to note there is no smoking in single and double rooms. Rooms are practically bare aside from beds, but at these rates you cannot expect much more than a safe, clean place to sleep. A small breakfast or buffet are offered at extra cost. Q (6 singles €36 - 42, 6 doubles €51 - 63, 1 triple €63 - 70, 6 quads €74 - 83). AGK

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RESTAURANTS 21RESTAURANTS


German Broscheks F-3, Großen Bleichen, MJungfernstieg, tel. 34 91 89 35, [email protected], www.broscheks.com.

Esskultur C-3, Trommelstr. 4, MReeperbahn, tel. 808128520, www.esskultur-hamburg.de. The stylish ‘eating culture’ restaurant is something quite different. Combining modern German cuisine from various regions with culture, it serves up fresh food as well as art. Every day at 21:30 a surprise artist climbs onto the small stage for your cultural dessert, with occasional longer events planned. A cheaper two-course pre-show menu is available before 19:30 too. If that’s not enough, the restaurant doubles as a theatre agency where you can get Hamburg events tickets and information. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon. Sunday Brunch 10:00-15:00

Gröninger F-3, Ost-West-Str. 47, MMessberg, tel. 31 13 81, [email protected], www.groeninger-hamburg.de. This restaurant is definitely not for vegetarians. Located in an old brewery, it is perfect for what many believe to be typical German fare and atmosphere. The crowd can be rowdy and seated close along the picnic table benches. Order a large meat platter and be ready to either over-eat or have leftovers. The waiters will gladly tap a small keg at your table for all to enjoy. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. PA

Schweinske C-3, Reeperbahn 157, MReeperbahn, tel. 33 39 67 70, www.porkys-hh.de. Pig-themed restaurants are rare in this world, and that’s a crying shame. See how it needs to be done here on the Reeperbahn, where this rusti-cally decorated restaurant packs in the punters who merrily consume the German favourites on the menu. Pigs don’t sleep when there’s fun and food to be had and on weekends it’s open non-stop so you can go straight from dinner to breakfast.Q Open Mon-Fri 09:00-01:00, Sat-Mon 24hrs.

Zur Traube A-3, Karl-Theodor-Str. 4, tel. 39 90 82 36. Enjoy a glass of wine and a plate of cheese over dim candlelight at this nostalgic Hamburg wine “Stube.” The intimate setting makes it perfect for a romantic event for two and will allow you to forget the modern hustle and bustle of the city outside. The building is as charming as the simple interior. Bus N°115 to Rothestrasse. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00.

Indian Ashoka D-2, Budapester Str. 25, MSt. Pauli, tel. 312834, www.ashoka.de. An Indian restaurant with a difference - not just happy with serving tasty specialities from all corners of the subcontinent in typical surroundings, Ashoka has several special menus that bring the best of Indian cuisine to your plate. There’s one that combines Kerala food with South African wines for instance, or a Seasons menu that is adapted to the time of year. There’s even a light thali Theatre menu for those on their way to or from a show elsewhere in St. Pauli. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00.

International Abaton Bistro Grindelhof 14a, MDammtor, tel. 45 77 71, www.abaton.de. After a trip to the neighbouring theatre, or a quick trip through the university quarter, stop by and enjoy the relaxing ambiance and lively crowd. While the area is full of students, you definitely do not need to be studious to enjoy this bistro. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. P

Abendmahl C-3, Hein-Köllisch-Platz 6, MSt. Pauli, tel. 31 27 58, fax 31 73 68 1, www.restaurantabendmahl.de/set.html. Located in only meters from the boisterous Reeperbahn, Abendmahl is a cozy, dimly lit restaurant with a small, varied a la carte menu or the choice of a 2, 3 or 4-course Überraschungsmenu prepared at the whim of the chef. Overall an enjoyable surprise. QOpen 19:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 23:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:30.

Stadtcafé Ottensen Behringstr. 42-44, tel. 39 90 36 03, [email protected], www.stadtcafe.com. Anyone familiar with the Viennese artist and architect Friedensreich Hundertwasser should keep this café on his list of must-sees. Two mad floors and outside seating typically guarantee a seat. Lunch is recommended as it is both light and satisfying - particularly the salad with grilled chicken and exotic fruit. Bus to Kreuzkirche. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. B

Fast food Bagel Brothers F-2, Gänsemarkt 50, MGänsemarkt, tel. 34 99 43 33, www.bagelbrothers.de. Per fect for a quick bite with a menu including American-inspired favourites such as the JFK and Doris Day. Most selections are accompanied by a picture so those needing a break from German menus can relax. Not somewhere to go for a taste of Hamburg’s finest, but sure beats McD’s. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 20:30, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. P

Edelcurry F-3, Grosse Bleichen 68, tel. 35 71 62 62, [email protected], www.edelcurry.de. One of many points of contention between Berlin and Hamburg regards who invented the currywurst - the sausage drenched in ketchup and mild curry sauce. We’d be foolish to take any other position than that Hamburg came up with it in 1947, and this restaurant is fully dedicated to this typically Hamburg snack, serving the noble sausage in a variety of styles and sauces, accompanied with French fries, and grütze for dessert. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00.

G o u r m e t S t a t i o n H - 2 / 3 , H a u p t b a h n h o f , MHauptbahnhof. A battalion of busy counters selling cheap food of superb quality, from sandwiches to fish and chips to some of the best Chinese food in the city. Sushi and KFC too. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00.

Fine dining Landhaus Scherrer Elbchaussee 130, tel. 880 13 25, [email protected], www.landhausscherrer.de. In 1840 this Haus was established as an inn for coachmen passing through Hamburg. It was since bought by Armin and Emmy Scherrer and turned into a restaurant of international prestige. Cuisine is described as “northern country-style with touches of Mediterranean and Asian.” You can always schedule a tour of the restaurant and extensive wine cellar before deciding. Q Open 12:00-15:00, 18:30-23:00. Closed Sun. A

Poletto Eppendorfer Landstr. 145, MKellinghusenstr., tel. 480 21 59, fax 41 40 69 93, www.poletto.de. Expect to be greeted personally at the door by Remigio Poletto. His wife, Cornelia, will be busy creating sumptuous masterpieces in the kitchen. Some of Hamburg’s most delicious smells emanate from this restaurant, situated in Eppendorf. You may leave with a lighter wallet, but no doubt whatsoever that your money was well spent. Cornelia Poletto has definitely earned her Michelin star! Q Open 12:00-15:00, 19:00-23:00, Sat 19:00-23:00. Closed Sun, Mon. h

Sgroi H-2, Lange Reihe 40, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 28 00 39 30/28 00 39 31, www.sgroi.de. Full of well-heeled locals chattering away and munching on the restaurant’s small selection of fine Italian food, the Sgroi family who run this modern place do a great job in keeping the place running smoothly despite what appears to be way too few staff. The menu is expensive, offering such treats as homemade ravioli, tuna with couscous and a fine-looking cheese board. Bear in mind though that a starter is €20, so don’t expect to walk out of here with much change from €100 for two of you. Q Open 12:00 - 14:30, 19:00 - 22:30. Sat 19:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun, Mon. A

Fish Alt-Hamburger Aalspeicher F-3/4, Deichstr. 43, tel. 36 29 90, [email protected], www.aalspeicher.de. For finger-food that’s longer than your fingers, visit the cute, narrow ‘eel warehouse’, serving home-smoked eels from Bad Zwischenahn. Waiters come round with a basket full of eels so you can take your pick of large or small specimens. Then you carefully strip the skin off with your fingers, and eat the fish meat accompanied by fresh black bread, and finally wash your hands with grain schnapps. Oyster, lobster and crayfish are also available. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.

Brook G-4, Bei den Mühren 91, MBaumwall, tel. 37 50 31 28, www.restaurant-brook.de. A swanky minimalist restaurant with a stark white interior, awards coming out of its ears and serving classic dishes with a twist, including a couple of reasonably priced pasta dishes and a host of fish dishes including scampi and tuna. There’s some affordable wine to compliment the seafood, plus a few treats such as bottles of 1990 Chateau Lafitte Rothschild for a cool €240. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00. 18:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun. A

Deichgraf F-3, Deichstr. 23, MRödingsmarkt, tel. 36 42 08, [email protected], www.deichgraf-hamburg.de. Using only fresh ingredients this splendid little gourmet restaurant is decorated with lots of fresh flowers, gilded mirrors and white tablecloths reflecting both the polished quality of the food and the service. Essentially a fish restaurant, dishes include herring, cod and crayfish. Q Open 11:00 - 15:00, 17:30 - 22:00, Sat 17:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A

Die Fischküche F-4, Kajen 12, MBaumwall, tel. 365631, info@die-f ischkueche.de, www.die-fischkueche.de. A cosy restaurant with plenty of plantlife, the Fischküche has been a fantastic place to sample typical Hamburg and other North German fish dishes ever since it opened in 1992. Owner Karin Brahm is at hand to help you select your meal, which can include everything from crabs and shrimps to grilled and stewed fish, and to advise on a fitting wine. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 18:00 - 23:00.

French Bistrot le Souterrain I-2, Ferdinand-Beitstr. 7, tel. 24 93 62, www.bistrot-le-souterrain.de. A small family run restaurant in a residential street with no pretentious décor or ostentatious overtones, at least the French food is good, if a little expensive. Seemingly unable to employ anyone else than his daughter, the chef has made a bit of mistake here as when it gets crowded the wait can become excrutiating. You decide. Q Open 12:00 - 14:00. 18:00 - 24:00. Sat 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. A

Le Canard Elbchaussee 139, tel. 88 12 95 32, www.lecanard-hamburg.de. First thing to note - make a reservation in advance; tables go quickly at this popular restaurant. Once seated, however, relax and enjoy French variations, such as a turbot flavoured with leek and lemon, and choose from over 200 wines. The front-row view of the Elbe will keep you busy gazing in between bites. QOpen 12:00 - 14:30 and 18:30-22:30. Closed Mon, Sun. A

Voltaire Friedensallee 14-16, MAltona, tel. 39 70 04. A varied menu of French fare is offered in a spacious dining area by friendly staff. The goat cheese salad offers a perfect light lunch. After a reasonably inexpensive, but tasty meal, take advantage of the nearby cinema, shopping or one of the many bars. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. P


broscheks F-3, Großen Bleichen, MJung fern-stieg, tel. 34 91 89 35, w w w.broscheks.com. The building’s historical background as a former publishing house is revived

in broscheks Restaurant. Decorated with authentic print-ing utensils and black and white pictures, you can feel the past and enjoy the present at the same time. Not even the menu is written in the classical manner; try an Executive Editors Foreword, followed by a North German Editorial and rounded of with an Epilogue. With the show kitchen the cooks are on stage, and you are the audience. The chef serves the fresh, young cuisine of northern Germany, interpreting traditional north German dishes in a creative way. The range of dishes is regularly updated with different seasonal specialities. A wine list packed with top class international wines rounds things off.

broscheks

Sco

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RESTAURANTS 23RESTAURANTS


San Michele Jarrestr. 2, MSaarlandstraße, tel. 37 11 27, [email protected], www.san-michele.de. One of Hamburg’s illustrious award-winning gourmet restaurants, San Michele is an elegant, immaculate place, yet pleasantly informal. Food includes fish, freshly made pasta dishes, a changing daily menu and quality pizza.Q Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00, 17:00-23:00, Sat 17:00-23:00. A

Schönes Leben Alter Wandrahm 15, tel. 180 48 26 80, www.schoenes-leben-hamburg.de. It’s easy to live the good life at Schönes Leben. Serving everything from Hamburger currywurst to sushi, fresh fish and Italian dishes, it’s hard to make a choice, just like in real life. Perhaps the best thing about Schönes Leben is it’s lovely design, with plenty of light, elegant wooden floors, pillars and furniture, and an inviting display of irresistible cakes. There’s also a breakfast buffet every day, with a special brunch every Sundays. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

Schlachterbörse Wolfgang Süße Kampstr. 42, MFeldstr., tel. 43 65 43, www.schlachterboerse.de. This restaurant may just provide some of Hamburg’s best meat. The menu is full of various steaks and filets in all sizes and varieties. Order a dish for two, or enjoy a single (large) portion. Appetisers are equally rich and delicious. Not for the light of heart or those worrying about their heart, but for all others - dig in. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. A

Turnhalle St. Georg H-2, Lange Reihe 70, MSt. Georg, tel. 28 00 84 80, [email protected], www.turnhalle.com. It is hard to believe this chic restaurant was at one time a sports hall. However, the gymnastic rings and other equipment serve to remind its patrons. The lunch menu is limited to pizzas and a few choice entrees. Dinner, however, provides an extensive, tasty menu and a worthwhile scene. QOpen 09:30 - 02:00. P

Iranian OstWest G-3, Brandstwiete 36, MMeßberg, tel. 32 90 19 51, [email protected], www.restaurant-ostwest.de. Bright and modern with lots of gleaming chrome, dark wood and orange seating, the fare on offer here is a refreshingly different mix of international and Iranian food. A good spot for lunch, the menu includes steak, Asian finger food and an Iranian kebabs (chelo kebap). There’s good coffee too, and thanks to its location just off the tourist trail you’ll almost always find the place blissfully empty of idiots. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. A

Italian Gallo Nero Sierichstrasse 46, MSierichstrasse, tel. 27 09 22 29, [email protected], www.gallo-nero.net. Run by a Sicilian, Gallo Nero serves delicate Italian specialities including tuna carpaccio, ruccula-parmazan pizza and seafood risotto in the light and airy interior or on the garden terrace. There’s an enoteca too with over 160 wines - many of them Sicilian - for tasting sessions or to take home. A short drive northeast of the city centre.

Il Girasole E-2/3, Kohlhöfen 6, MGänsemarkt, tel. 35 71 92 61. A small Italian restaurant specialising in fish with a small bar to the left, decoration is minimal, with wooden seating, candles and sunflowers in season. From the look of it you’d probably walk straight by, but Il Girasole is one of those places where people in the know like to go. As well as fish, the reasonably priced menu also includes pizza, pasta, and steak. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. A

Osteria Due G-1, Badestrasse 4, tel. 410 16 51, www.os-teriadue.de. A charming yellow building near the Aussenalster lake holds this highly-regarded restaurant, serving traditional

Alex G-2, Jungfernstieg 54, MJungfernstieg, tel. 350 18 70. Sitting at the foot of the Inner Alster in the centre of town, Alex has one of the best views of the river. Lunches are slightly overpriced for what they are and Sunday brunch can be crowded and smoky in spite of the restaurant’s large size. However, many would argue that the prime location outweighs any cons. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. B

Atlantic Restaurant H-2, An der Alster 72-97, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 288 88 60, fax 24 71 29, [email protected], http://www.atlantic.de/de/bars/index.htm?id=751. A hugely popular restaurant for those who can afford it and run by a very charming man indeed, the Atlantic oozes sophistication and yet retains an informal and relaxed atmosphere. The cuisine includes such fabulous sounding dishes as goose liver in caramelised apples and dessert nougat ravioli with sour ice cream. Notable diners have included the Rolling Stones, who ate here every night when playing in the city. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00-23:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. A

Au Quai A-4, Große Elbstr. 145b-d, MKönigstr., tel. 38 03 77 30, fax 380 377 32, [email protected], www.au-quai.com. Having once served in Hamburg’s port as a refrigerated warehouse, Au Quai now serves to please. Head Chef Danny Riewoldt has created a delightful menu, including favourites such as grilled tuna with Asian-inspired vegetables and varieties of homemade ice cream. On a warm evening take advantage of their Elbe terrace. Q Open 12:00-22:30, Sat 18:00-22:30. Closed Sun. PAB

Cox H-2, Lange Reihe 68, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 24 94 22, fax 280 50 902, www.restaurant-cox.de. With changing daily lunch and evening menus, this lovely restaurant with shades of pastel yellow and white tablecloths attracts a media crowd who come to celebrate the chef’s cooking rather than the décor. Very nouvelle cuisine, the food is reasonably priced, which probably explains why the place is always full. Booking in advanced is highly recommended. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 23:30. Sat, Sun 19:00 - 23:30 A

Eisenstein Friedensallee 5, MAltona, tel. 390 46 06, www.restaurant-eisenstein.de. Named after Sergej Eisenstein, the Russian director of Ivan the Terrible, the pizzas everything but terrible. Not to be compared with the likes of Italian or American pizza, these pizzas are thin-crusted and in a world of their own. Located in Ottensen’s Fabrik and in the area’s restaurant and bar centre, this restaurant is sure stay high on the must-eat list. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00.

Engel Anleger Teufelsbrück, tel. 82 41 87, www.restaurant-engel.de. Engel means “angel” and was perhaps named for this restaurant’s breathtaking view of the harbour. Select from a varied menu including tasty fish and meat dishes. The restaurant is a small trek from the city centre (bus N°36/286 to Teufelsbrücke Fähre) but it is well worth the scenic trip. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.

Filmhauskneipe Friedensallee 7, MAltona, tel. 39 90 80 25. Be transported... sort of... to a Munich beer garden while seated outside this restaurant. A row of picnic tables and stringed lights lend to the festive atmosphere, as well as featured artists whose work lines the walls. The staff is friendly and attractive and the tomato soup and large salads are delicious. If you feel like a movie, the Zeise-Kino cinema is right next door. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. B

Goldfisch Isekai 1, MKellinghusenstr., tel. 57 00 96 90, [email protected], www.goldfisch.de. Goldfish provides a view of one of the many canals meandering through

quiet charming Eppendorf. On weekends a nice breakfast and small play area will please both parents and children. Afterwards, take advantage of the canoe rentals directly below the restaurant to further explore the area. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. A

Kaisers F-4, Am Kaiserkai 23, tel. 36 09 17 90, www.kaisers-hamburg.de. Set between the cruiseliner terminal and the new Elbphilharmonie building in the Hafencity harbour area, here’s a great place to sit and watch the comings and goings of ships on the water. The restaurant serves a range of international dishes and limits its good-value lunchtime offerings to a few changing dishes - though you can always order the famous currywurst or ‘harbour schnitzel’. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.

Haerlin G-2, Neuer Jungfernstieg 9-14, MGänsemarkt, tel. 34 94 33 10, [email protected], www.hvj.de. A classy silver service gourmet restaurant inside the Raffles hotel that sets the standard in high living and fine dining. Food includes the chef’s famous lamb dishes, fillet soul, lobster and rhubarb tart. There are over 1,500 wines to choose from as well. Painfully expensive but worth every penny if you can afford it. QOpen 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. AE

Knuth A-2/3, Große Rainstr. 2, MAltona, tel. 46 00 87 08, fax 46 00 87 01. Hidden behind the Mercado shopping area, Knuth offers breakfast, lunch and dinner served by attractive, friendly staff. Patrons range from retirees working on crossword puzzles to hipsters taking a coffee break. The restaurant is large but seats can be scarce. A variety of soups and ciabatta sandwiches are worth a small wait, though. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. GB

Louise Maria-Louisen-Str. 3, tel. 85 10 48 42, fax 85 10 48 46. The atmosphere smacks of red velvet and light gold hues at this restaurant located in Hamburg’s Winterhude district. Recommended is a schnitzel and an accompanying glass of wine. Make sure to try a dessert to finish off the meal. Staff is friendly and professional. Bus N°109 to Streekbrücke. Q Open 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00; Sat, Sun 18:00-23:00. Closed Tue PA

Mangold lokal D-E/2, Ölmühle 30, MFeldstr., tel. 27 86 02 48. Mangold sits at the entrance to Marktstrasse, one of Hamburg’s more retro shopping streets. The menu reflects the decor - simple and tasteful - and the prices are surprisingly low. More importantly, the restaurant’s glass front provides patrons a window to the colourful goings-on of the area. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. B

Mess E-2, Turnerstr. 9, MFeldstr., tel. 43 41 23, [email protected], www.mess.de. Utterly charming and most certainly not a mess at all, this cute little international restaurant features lots of tucked away seating for the intimate shovelling in of quality nosh with a loved one. The one English menu offers a choice of dishes from Irish oysters to homemade tagliatelle with truffles. An impressive range of over 250 wines too. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 23:00. Sat, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. A

Nil D-2, Neuer Pferdemarkt 6, MFeldstr., tel. 439 78 23, www.restaurant-nil.de. Who would have thought an old shoe store would become a prime location. A young, hip scene has settled into Nil. Patrons can choose from a St. Pauli or four-course menu or a la carte. Vegetarians also have options here. Perfect place to start the night, though there is no guarantee you will want to leave. QOpen 18:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Tue. B

Italian favourites with southern flair. Unusually, the kitchen is open all afternoon and until midnight, so you can eat when you want. The food and wine attract the rich and famous, so they’re certainly good enough for you QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.

Pane e Tulipani H-3, Klosterwall 23, tel. 80 60 16 88, www.pane-e-tulipani.eu. The striking white interior alone, with dozens of chandeliers hanging from the high ceilings, makes visiting this Italian restaurant worthwhile. And then we haven’t even mentioned the food, the wines and the desserts. A top quality experience for a very reasonable price. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Sat 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun.

Spanish Altamira Bahrenfelder Str. 331, MOttensen, tel. 85 37 16 00, fax 853 72 410, www.cafealtamira.de. This Spanish restaurant in Hamburg’s trendy Ottensen offers a variety of salads and tapas that will also please vegetarians. While named after the Altamira cave in northern Spain, the cool interior reminds you of the modern Spanish world. QOpen 18:00 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00.

Syrian Saliba A-1, Leverkusenstr. 54, MDiebstach, tel. 85 80 71, [email protected], www.saliba.de. Delicious Syrian food abounds in this restaurant located in a renovated century-old factory. The lights and mirrors will play with your eyes all night, but don’t let them distract you from the food. People here are serious about their meals. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. P

Turkish Taxim Spritzenplatz 4, MAltona, tel. 439 39 18. Hamburg’s Turkish population can be proud of its spicy heritage at this Altona restaurant. Germans also have a good reason to become acquainted with Turkish delicacies at this local favourite. Choose from a list of traditional dishes while enjoying the colourful ambiance and equally entertaining crowd. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00.

Vegetarian Vegi Planet Rothenbaumchaussee 55, tel. 41 49 82 15. One could hardly imagine more (actually) appetising vegetarians options. The veggie burger could even convince beefeaters to stray... at least for one meal. In addition, there is an organic supermarket including books and cosmetic. Staff is not only animal-friendly, but greets all customers with a smile. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

After strolling down the Landungsbrücken quay and a doing the harbour tour, many visitors to Hamburg simply hop on the metro to get back to the earnest business of shopping. Just behind the harbour however lies a charm-ing small neighbourhood that is typical of Hamburg, yet completely unique at the same time. The centre of Hamburg’s sizeable Portuguese and southern European community since the 1960s, the Portugiesenviertel consists of just a handful of streets around the Ditmar-Koel-Straße in the Neustadt district that are home to over a dozen Portuguese restaurants, bars and pastelarias. It’s the best place in Hamburg – some say in Northern Europe – to sample authentic tapas, delicious fresh seafood dishes and tasty Portuguese wines.

Portuguese Quarter

24 NIGHTLIFE


25NIGHTLIFE


Bereuther Klosterallee 100, MHoheluf tbrücke, tel. 41 40 67 89, www.bereuther.de. This somewhat hidden cocktail bar and restaurant is located on the corner of Klosterallee next to one of Hamburg’s famous canals. The chic interior gives it an impressive air and an extensive wine and Sekt champagne list will keep you fizzing for hours. Not many other bars in the direct vicinity, so plan to enjoy the evening here. QOpen 18:30 - 02:00. Closed Sun.

Blaues Barhaus Große Brunnenstr. 55, MAltona, tel. 39 90 58 42, www.blaues-barhaus.de. Happy Hour is called blue hour at this bar/club and runs from 18:00 until at least 22:00 most nights. Cocktails are only €5. Expect to be surrounded by a hip, attractive crowd at this Ottensen bar. Staff is warm and service is quick so sit back and enjoy a couple cocktails at a discount before the night gets going. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00.

Bolero A-3, Bahrenfelder Str. 53, MAltona, tel. 390 78 00, [email protected], www.bolerobar.de. Not only does this bar have a happy hour daily from 17:00-19:00 when all cocktails are half price, but there is also a caipi hour from 23:00-01:00 when all varieties of caipirinhas are reduced in price. There is also a variety of Mexican food to enjoy. The mood is always light and don’t be surprised to see some happy dancers. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00.

Christiansen’s C-3, Pinnasberg 60, MReeperbahn, tel. 317 28 63, [email protected], www.christiansens.de. Situated slightly out of sight from the nearby St. Pauli strip, the over 180 types of rum and whiskey here will leave any alcohol connoisseur satisfied. Expect a nice conversation with friendly staff (in English!) or perhaps a free massage if you stop by on a Monday night. End the night admiring the array of lights at the nearby harbour. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00, Fri 20:00 - 04:00, Sat 20:00 - 05:30. Closed Sun.

Ciu’ Die Bar G-2, Ballindamm 14/15, MJungfernstieg, tel. 32 50 88 55, [email protected], www.ciudiebar.de. Ciu’ boasts a worthwhile scene - both of the Binnenalster and of some of the trendier people in Hamburg. A spacious set-up allows for audible conversation in between stealing glances. The cocktail list comes in the form of a magazine and should you have the time to read it, a new choice is likely to please. QOpen 15:00 - 01:00.

Die Herr en Simpel D-1, Schulterblatt 75, MSternschanze, tel . 38 68 46 00, [email protected], www.dieherrensimpel.de. Quiet and gentle with a vast picture of flowers behind the bar, this is one of the more charming bars in an area filled with much in the way of empty wackiness. As well as seating at the front with big windows perfect for staring at the freaks in the street, there are areas out the back furnished with pick-and-mix chairs and tables that are ideal for serious sessions with friends. The music is a nice mix of ambient and stuff you’ll probably never hear again. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00.

Die Welt ist Schön D-2, Neuer Pferdemarkt 4, MFeldstr., tel. 18 78 88, [email protected], www.dieweltistschoen.net. The World is Beautiful according to this bar - but a more appropriate name would be Our clients are beautiful. During the happy hour from 20:00-22:00, cocktails are served for only €5. The garden on the first of three floors and the roof deck also make it a great choice on a nice summer night. Be pretty, be happy. QOpen 20:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. B

Dual Bar D-1, Schanzenstr. 53, MSternschanze, tel. 45 03 71 66, [email protected], www.dualbar.de. With its beautiful bartenders, cool decor and wide range of cocktails - including a long list of whiskey and malts - this loungey bar offers the best of all scenes. Get there early, secure a seat and have a nice conversation with friends over a large cosmopolitan before the bar fills to capacity. DJs play a variety of music from Thursday to Saturday. QOpen from 10:00, Sun from 16:00.

Frank und Frei D-1, Schanzenstr. 93, MSternschanze, tel. 43 48 03. A bit like a classic South London Victorian boozer, this place features lots of wood panelling, big ceiling fans and lots of bits and bobs stuck all over the walls. There are those who say that Hamburg is an English city, and it’s in Frank un Frei where the two cultures meet rather nicely. Both a fine location to get utterly sloshed on cold bottles of Flensburger or to take advantage of the all-you-can-eat €6.50 Sunday morning breakfast buffet. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00.

Grosse Freiheit 36 C-3, Grosse Freiheit 36, MReeperbahn, tel. 31 77 78 11, [email protected], www.grossefreiheit36.de. For all those who grew up in the 1980s and have yet to leave the music behind - you have found your home. Located on one of the most famous streets near the Reeperbahn, this bar has music, alcohol and people looking to have fun. The lively scene makes it a great place to start off. The scene outside is equally as lively. QOpen 20:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun.

Hans Albers-Eck D-3, Hans-Albers-Platz 20, MReeperbahn, tel. 31 36 14, www.hans-albers-eck.de. Hans Albers, one of Hamburg’s famed singers, has found a home in a bar sitting, as Albers once crooned, “auf der Reeperbahn”, and reminds patrons of Hamburg’s port city flair. On weekends arrive early or be prepared to wait. A dance floor and outdoor terrace provide options. QOpen 19:00 - 01:00, Thu 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. EB

Indochine Neumühlen 11, MGänsemarkt, tel. 39 80 78 80, www.indochine.de. A small Asian-themed bar in the basement of the Raffles Hotel, fabulously decorated with rattan furniture, lots of red silk, old photographs of Singapore and glass-topped tables filled with exotic spices. The favoured watering hole of the city’s 20-something A-list, cocktails include life-affirming mojitios and several interesting sake-based drinks. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.

Bars & Lounges Absinth Bar B-2, Max-Brauer-Allee 88, MAltona, tel. 54 80 69 01, [email protected], www.absinth-bar.com. Once only legal in Spain and the Czech Republic, this liquor has reemerged all over Europe with safer ingredients. Try the famed drink of Hemingway at this bar - carefully mix the burning sugar with the alcohol before downing it and frizzling some braincells. On the weekends enjoy the live music. QOpen 19:00 - 02:00. E

Alster Cliff Fährdamm 13, MHallerstr., tel. 44 27 19, www.alster-cliff.de. Here you are also assured a stunning front row seat of the Alster. Perfect for a relaxing late afternoon beer and a little re-grouping before deciding on a destination for later night activities. Expect to find other tourists, but with equally good taste. Bus N°109 to Alsterchaussee. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. B

Alsterperle Eduard-Rhein-Ufer 1, MUhlandstr., tel. 22 74 82 73, www.alsterperle.com. With a residence directly on the Outer Alster, this waterside establishment is perfect for a beer or some warm Glühwein after a stroll. Take in the neighbouring mansions and the handsome runners that also appreciate an amazing view of Hamburg’s famed river. Bus N°6 to Mundsburger Brücke. QOpen from 8:00. B

Atlantic Bar H-2, An der Alster 72-79, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 288 80. Straight out of the golden age of 1930s Hollywood movies the Atlantic Bar is an Art Deco masterpiece, harking back to the days when staying in hotels was something to look forward to rather than a necessary 21st-century chore. Find immaculate barmen dressed as penguins, shuffling about the place and keeping the bar nibbles well stocked. Staggeringly expensive, you do at least get free cabaret if you choose the right time to pop in. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00.

Aurel A-3, Bahrenfelder Str. 157, MAltona, tel. 390 27 27. Sit back and enjoy a drink and the sun here. Tables are available on the street to allow you to take in the laid back scene in Ottensen. There is also a caipirinha happy hour that runs from 12:00-21:00 so be sure to take advantage of i t. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00. B

B a r E i s e n b e r g E - F / 2 , D r a g o n e r s t a l l 1 5 , MMessehallen, tel. 0173 921 60 12, www.bar-eisenberg.de. With lots of black and copper fi t tings reminiscient of an old ice-cream parlour, Bar Eisenberg doubles as a friendly cocktail bar during the week, packed with creatives and musicians, and as a live music venue at the weekends. Music varies from soul to what they call the talents of the steam turbine and gas turbine systems school. Maybe lost in translation, maybe you know what they’re going on about. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00, Fri 18:00 - 04:00, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun.

B a r H a m b u r g H - 2 , R a u t e n b e r g s t r . 6 - 8 , MHauptbahnhof, tel. 28 05 48 80, [email protected], www.barhamburg.com. With a drinks menu bigger than a family Bible, Bar Hamburg is pure cutting edge. Ignore the Italian restaurant downstairs and take a seat in the bar, whose charming barmen conjour up a feast of delicious and fancy drinks from the usual array of cocktails to a fine selection of whiskey. A fine place to hang out with lots of other beautiful people. QOpen 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 03:00.

Bar Rossi C-1, Max-Brauer-Allee 279, MSternschanze, tel. 43 25 46 39, w w w.bar-rossi.net. A largish Frankenstein’s monster of a box utilising the very best of auctioned lighting, mirror balls, sleek sofas and plenty of vertical drinking space, Bar Rossi has the ability to transform itself from a sad and empty bar into the liveliest place in town in under 30 minutes. As with many bars in Germany the secret here is to not arrive too early. Get here before 12:00 and you’ll be disappointed. Get here any later than 01:00 and you’ll be waiting until closing time to get served. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00.

Bedford D-2, Schulterblatt 72, MSternschanze, tel. 43 18 83 32. Located in the middle of a graffiti-splattered neighbourhood, Bedford resembles a classic German small-town bar commandeered by people in funny hats. Rough and ready, and extremely self-conscious about its image, you have to be a trifle conceited to enjoy drinking here, and you need to be extremely careful of the stairs to the toilets. It’s a bit like going for a piddle on a fishing boat. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00.


Bar SáVánh Neumühlen 11, tel. 39 80 78 80, www.indochine.de. Not a place to kick back and drink a beer in your oldest clothes, rather this trendy bar is a prime time locale for Hamburg’s hip crowd. The view of the

harbour is an added bonus to the scenery inside. Take advantage of the leather sofas and the great view and in-dulge in a variety of cocktails. Bus N°112 to Lawaetzhaus. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 11:00 - 15:00 Sunday brunch

Bar SáVánh

BRICKS F-3, Große Ble-ichen, MJungfernstieg, tel. 34 91 80. Communi-cative, modern and fresh but with classical Hanse-atic elegance that is the new BRICKS Tea Lounge Bar located on the ground floor. Sink into one of our cosy chairs and take in the fantastic view to the Grosse Bleichen shopping street. Lean back and taste one of our sixteen different

tea specialities accompanied by a tasty piece of cake, or come in the afternoon or evening when BRICKS Tea Lounge Bar is a favourite meeting place to mingle and enjoy the different drinks and exquisite snacks. Here tradi-tional bar culture is celebrated in a stylish atmosphere.

BRICKS Tea Lounge Bar

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Top of Town F-1/2, Marseillerstr. 2, MStephansplatz, tel. 350 20. Ignoring the rather foolhardy attempt at proper grammar, Top of Town is just that. In height anyway. The Radisson’s 26th-floor drinking hole wipes the floor with other bars with its view, a fact reflected in the painfully expensive drinks menu. But if you want to see just how beautiful Hamburg really is, you absolutely can’t top this one. QOpen 21:30 - 04:00. Closed Sun.

Tower Bar (Hotel Hafen Hamburg) D-E/3, Seewartenstr. 9, MLandungsbrücken, tel. 31 11 35 24. This bar provides one of the best (and highest) views of the harbour and has become something of a sightseeing ritual for visitors. Local Hamburgers delight in showing off the Elbe’s activity. Drinks are slightly overpriced and rather froufrou, for lack of a better word. No beer here. Expect bright colours and frui t-adorned glasses. The view at night is, however, worth a cocktail or two. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00.

Turmbar F-1, Rothenbaumchaussee 2, MDammtor, tel. 44 45 67, [email protected], www.turmbar.de. This tower-like structure does not strike one at first glance as a bar - it served as a bunker during WW II. However, after walking up a long, wide spiral ramp that once provided shelter during air raids, you can enjoy a drink knowing that you have also discovered Hamburg history. QOpen 19:00 - 01:30, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 03:00.

Yoko Mono E-2, Marktstr. 41, MFeldstr., tel. 43 18 29 91, www.yokomono.de. A small bar for the city’s underground set featuring DJs and/or live music every night, this is just like something you’d find in East Berlin. Full of colourful bohemian types, many of who appear to have lost the way, there’s a pool table, strange music bellowing out of the loudspeakers and stacks of fliers full of information about where to find more of this kind of thing in the city. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00.

Zoe II D-2, Neuer Pferdemarkt 17, MFeldstr.. Reminiscent of an old Berlin lounge, Zoe has found a home and a following in the Schanze district. The bar is full of worn furniture, young patrons, and above all else smoke. However, should you be able to survive the atmosphere, you can expect to enjoy cheap local beer and an intimate conversation with your friends and perhaps with those on the couch next to you. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00.

Beer gardens Hadley’s Beim Schlump 84a, MSchlump, tel. 450 50 75, [email protected], www.hadleys.de. A perfect place to spend your Saturday afternoon. Pretend you are in a Biergarten in the south of Germany… or at least outside drinking beer. They serve drinks and small meals, but best of all is the terrace. Make sure to take advantage of the summer weather. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. B

Casinos Casino Esplanade F-2, Stephansplatz 10, tel. 334 73 30, www.spielbank-hamburg.de. A palatial white building in the heart of Hamburg houses this new casino. Roulette, Black Jack or Poker can be played at 18 tables, and there are 150 gaming machines, operating daily from noon. You can start off the night at the Tarantella restaurant (open from noon to midnight, weekends till 01:00), relax at the bar, and marvel at the sunset views from the balcony terrace. Dress up and bring ID. Q Open 15:00 - 04:00, gaming machines from 12:00. Admission €2.

ClubsIn the mood for dancing?

Bar Morphine D-3, Seilerstr. 16, MSt. Pauli, tel. 33 39 92 00, [email protected], www.bar-morphine.de. For those who plan to stroll into the Fischmarkt at 06:00 on Sunday morning. This club does not even open its doors until (earliest) midnight. However, there is never a lack of people rushing in when they do open. The décor is equally packed (think purple and mirrors). DJs keep the music playing and the people dancing. Good choice after a few more laid-back bars in the area. Q Open Fri 01:00-08:00, Sat 24:00-08:00.

Drafthouse D-3, Hans-Albers-Platz 15, MReeperbahn, www.drafthouse-hh.de. The interior is a mixture of American souvenirs, including western memorabilia, longhorns, old advertisements and most importantly Mr. Ed - the talking horse. Live music begins at 21:00 and runs the spectrum, but focuses mostly on country music and rock. Up to 600 guests can fit into this rodeo so be prepared to meet your neighbour. QOpen 19:00 - 01:00, Thu 19:00 - 02:00, Fri 19:00 - 04:00. E

Mandalay D-2, Neuer Pferdemarkt 13, MFeldstr., tel. 43 21 49 22, www.mandalay.tv. For loud popular music and little conversation try this bar/club located in Sternschanze. People are young and likely to dance, perhaps even with you. Expect little personal room on weekend nights. A good choice after a few drinks or a dull date. DJs spinning on Thu from 22:00 and Fri/Sat from 23:00. Q Open Tue-Sat from 20:00.

Nouar B-2, Max-Brauer-Allee 275, MHolstenstr., tel. 430 89 49, [email protected], www.nouar.de. Decorated with a variety of stringed lights, this is a popular late night hang-out for a young, energetic crowd. On weekend nights be prepared for a line at the door, but once inside you can rest easily on those pressed next to you. Lively music and dance abound. QOpen 18:30 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. E

Jahreszeiten Grill G-2, Neuer Jungfernstieg 9-14, MGänsemarkt, tel. 34 94 33 12. More of a restaurant than a bar as testified by the €23 business lunch, much of the décor in this wonderful Art Deco room is original and dates from 1929. As for drinking here, it doesn’t come cheap, but is worth every penny for the experience. A great place to start off the evening with a cocktail before moving on to somewhere that stays open a little later. Q Open 12:00 - 14:30, 18:00 - 23:30.

Juli C-1, Schulterblatt 114, MSternschanze, tel. 43 21 46 96, [email protected], www.cafebar-juli.de. Delight in a light atmosphere full of smiling people who look content with li fe and aim to counteract the image of stiff, introspective Germans. Not sold? Than stop by perhaps for the 1960s-inspired interior, the relatively inexpensive drinks, the attractive staff or patrons. Still not sold? Than you do not deserve to enjoy this bar. Food is also available. Q Mon - Fri from 10:00, Sat, Sun from 11:00.

La Paloma D-3, Friedrichstr. 11, MReeperbahn, tel. 31 45 12. Located in the heart of the Reeperbahn area, this bar is rarely without a line. Be prepared to wait for a while on weekends especially. However, an early arrival will allow you to enjoy the suggestive art and the colourful and mixed patrons that will file in later in the evening. Two beers on tap and plenty of cocktails will keep you happy. QOpen 19:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri 19:00 - 02:00, Sat 19:00 - 04:00.

Le Ciel H-2, An der Alster 52-56, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 21 00 10 70, [email protected], www.leciel.de. Industrial chic on the ninth floor of the Le Royal Meridien hotel featuring lashings of modern art, a bizarre mix of frumpy hotel guests and trendy locals, classic 90s disco hits and more cocktails than Molotov on a bad day. Take away the view and you’re not left with much, so thank heavens it’s such a good one. QOpen 06:30 - 02:00.

Marktstube E-2, Marktstr. 119, MFeldstr., tel. 43 09 90 82. This bar is almost as cool as the area around it. Patrons are hip without trying to be - if that is possible. Atmosphere is relaxing, as is the leather-upholstered furniture. Begin the evening with a drink at this local favourite. QOpen 20:00 - 02:00.

Milk Bar Lounge F-2, Dammtordamm 2, MDammtor, tel. 348 00 34, www.milkbarlounge.de. This trendy cocktail bar hosts an attractive scene after work due to its close proximity to the city centre. Grab a glass of wine or something more elaborate and enjoy the men and women dressed to impress. Take a stroll through Planten und Blomen and watch the sunset or grab a gourmet ice cream cone at the park’s entrance. Or go home. Great to go for an after-work cocktail. QOpen 15:00 - 02:00. B

Nullviernull (040) Methfesselstr. 65, MLutterothstr., tel. 43 28 28 43. This bar gets its name from Hamburg’s phone code. Local Eimbüttelers frequent this narrow bar often to take in soccer matches. The bar itself is somehow Berlinesque and the people too: they are content with what they are doing and don’t scan the people coming through the door. There is a style to this bar all on its own. QOpen 20:00 - 02:00.

Pony Bar F-1, Allende Platz 1, MStephansplatz, tel. 428 38 78 95, www.ponybar.de. Refreshingly tatty and full of ex students still undecided as to whether to start a revolution or a web design company, Pony Bar features 1970s furniture that’s seen more bums than a New York soup kitchen, table football and a wallpapered DJ booth. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 - 03:00.

Rehbar Ottenser Hauptstr. 52, MAltona, tel. 99 99 22 09, www.rehbar.de. A nice combination of Hamburg’s down-to-earth crowd and those looking for a scene. The bar offers its own beer: Rehbier. Small meals can also be shared. Grab a table and catch up with an old friend while keeping an eye out for something more. The area has plenty to offer if something more should come along. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00.

Seis-Bar A-2/3, Kleine Rainstr. 11, MAltona, tel. 46 00 89 11, [email protected], www.seis-bar.de. If tiring of German beer and wine, stop by this bar for a caipirinha or another tasty cocktail. The crowd is diverse and the area is full of other bars should you be less than thrilled. However, strong drinks might be a reason to stay longer than expected. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00.

Strandperle Am Schulberg, tel. 880 11 12. Where there is a view, there is a bar. And Hamburg locals, as well as tourists, will take advantage of this fact, weather allowing (though weather is debatable). Order a coffee or beer and relax. No scene to evaluate or crowd to impress, just a great view of the Elbe and some time to appreciate it. Bus N°36 to Liebermannstrasse. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. B

Summum Bonum D-2, Neuer Pferdemarkt 17, MFeldstr.. A superb open plan bar with huge flaking walls, over two dozen large sofas of varying designs to sit on, a clientele made up of local characters, lawyers, students and other suspicious characters, and delightful student barmaids. Always packed, booze is of the bottled beer or cocktail variety, or there’s a limited range of wine and some very good coffee. A great atmosphere. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00.

The Academy D-3, Hans-Albers-Platz 15, MReeperbahn. Becks, Erdinger, Kilkenny, Guinness, Murphy’s red or stout pour from the taps here and an assortment of whiskeys are also available. Expect live music and mixed company at this lively bar - particularly on the nights that the Rockhouse Brothers perform. Most bands cover an array of oldies but goldies. Arrive early to secure a seat. Opens at 14:00 for the World Cup. QOpen 19:00 - 01:00, Thu 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 03:00. E

A palatial white building in the heart of Hamburg is home to the new Spiel-bank Casino Esplanade. Elegant classic architec-ture mixes with enter-tainment here, and you too are invited to come enjoy the relaxed atmosphere of Hamburg’s casino.Whether you prefer Roulette, Black Jack or Poker, you’ll have plenty of chance to play your favourite game at one of 18 tables. Or have a go at one of the 150 gaming machines, operating daily from noon to 04:00. Relax with friends at the bar, marvel at the sunset views from the balcony terrace, and start off the night at the Tarantella restaurant (open from noon to midnight, weekends till 01:00).

Casino Esplanade, Stephansplatz 10, Hamburg, www.spielbank-hamburg.de.

Casino Esplanade

Sco

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WHAT TO SEE

Main sights Fernsehturm E-1, Lagerstraße 2-8, MSternschanze. Built between 1965 and 1968 from reinforced concrete and opened on May 1, 1968, the 279.2 metre, 43,000 tonne Fernsehturm (also known as the Heinrich-Hertz-Turm after Heinrich Rudolf Hertz, the Hamburg-born physicist and discoverer of electromagnetic waves). Once the proud home of a lofty observation platform and restaurant the tower is currently closed to visitors. QOpen 10.00 - 23.00.

Rathaus G-3, Rathausmarkt 1, MRathaus, tel. 31 24 70, www.rathaus.hamburg.de. Currently the city’s sixth town hall, Hamburg’s newest seat of government took eleven years to build and was completed in 1897. With a neo-Renaissance exterior and an interior of mixed styles, including a number of fountains built to celebrate the health Hamburg’s citizens. Much of the interior is open to the public, but there’s generally usually something closed off due to an official function. To get the most out a visit, a guided tour is highly recommended. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.

Speicherstadt G-3, MMeßberg. The world’s biggest warehouse complex is an awesome hotchpotch of waterways, cobbled streets and red brick Hanseactic buildings dating from 1885 to 1927. Originally built between 1885 and 1888 at the cost of 20,000 people’s homes, as well as housing some of the best museums in the city including its very own Speicherstadt Museum, Speicherstadt (“Warehouse City”) is currently undergoing massive development work and is fast becoming the number one trendy place to be, with lots of new six-figure apartments and swanky bars. You can take a boat tour around the complex.

Places of interest Alsterarkaden F / G-3, An der Kleinen Alster, MJungfernstieg. After the great fire of Hamburg in 1842 the architect Alexis de Chateauneuf (1799 - 1853) designed and built this charming little riverside arcade, inspired by the very best of Venetian architecture. The leading example of what became known as post-fire architecture, the arcade stands exactly as it did when it was built, and features both shops and outdoor cafés that offer a great opportunity to sit and bask with the sight of the Rathaus just over the water.

Alter Elbtunnel D-4, MLandungsbrücken. Ever wonder how people travel back and forth across the harbour? Four large elevators inside the dome-shaped building at Landungsbrücken travel 24 meters below the Elbe to ferry people and cars back and forth. The tunnel was created in 1911 and still serves its original purpose. Free for pedestrians. Q Open 24hrs, Mon-Fri 05:30-20:00, Sat 05:30-16:00 for cars.

Außenalster H-1, MDammtor. Hamburg’s Außenalster announced its presence as early as the thirteenth century and has long become one of the defining sights of the city. There is even a “Alsterwasser” drink named after it. On a nice day the river (note that it is not a lake) is full of sailboats, canoes and paddleboats. The parks surrounding it provide all visitors with a beautiful view of the water from land. Take advantage of a guided tour of the river and its connecting canals.

Binnenalster G-2, MJungfernstieg. The smaller of Hamburg’s two Alsters, this body of water forms the centre of the inner city. Famed hotels, businesses, and restaurants run along the water’s edge. The Kennedy and Lombard bridges separate the Inner from the Outer Alster and provide a great view of both.

Bismarckdenkmal E-3, MSt. Pauli. Test your knowledge of German history with a visit to the Bismarck memorial, located in the Alter Elbpark overlooking the harbour. The 34-meter granite statue was buil t between 1903 and 1906 and honours the late German Chancellor, Otto von Bismarck.

Blankenese . You may have already heard that Hamburg has the largest number of millionaires in any city in Germany. Now see where they live. Take a ride along the Elbe north into the area called Blankenese and admire the homes and the view from the river’s banks. Restaurants and cafes line the area so there is no need to go hungry.

Deichstraße, MRödingsmarkt. Deichstraße, the old merchant street displays the varying styles of old Hamburg architecture. Some residences date back to the eighteenth century. Surprisingly, the street has maintained its quaint character over the centuries. A few new restaurants have popped to add a culinary twist to the old area.

Feuerschiff Vorsetzen, MBaumwall, tel. 36 25 53, www.das-feuerschiff.de. This old English fireship once served as a floating lighthouse. It now serves its patrons as a pub, restaurant and hotel. The red ship has become part of the harbour’s scenery and is a great tourist stop.

HafenCity G-3, Messberg, [email protected], www.hafencity.com. Visit one of Europe’s largest urban development plans. The southern side of the city centre is currently undergoing a transformation of sorts. Old warehouses are being renovated as office buildings to provide a new location for Hamburg’s expanding economy. A cruise port has also been established.

Hamburger Hafen D/E-4, Landungsbrücken, MLandungsbrücken. Hamburg is known as one of the largest harbours in Europe, but its size does not dwarf its beauty. Stop by during the day and take a harbour tour or later in the evening to watch the docks and ships light up the sky. Over 800 years old, the Hafen still creates a buzz in Hamburg, especially when the Queen Mary II sails into town.

Hans Hummel Figures . Throughout the city centre you will notice statutes of men carrying buckets. They are all varying artists’ renditions of Hans Hummel - Hamburg’s famed water carrier. Hans Hummel was actually named Johann Wilhelm Bentz and lived in Hamburg from 1787 until 1854. The children of the city would scream „Hummel, Hummel“ when they saw him and he would retort „Mors, Mors.“ It has since become a famous dialogue in Hamburg.

Tourist Information Office H-2/3, Hauptbahnhof, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 30 05 13 00, www.hamburg-tourism.de. Hamburg’s excellent tourist information offices can be found in the main station (east exit, Kirch-enallee) as well as at the airport (open 06:00-23:00) and in the city centre at St. Pauli Landungsbrücken (between bridges 4 and 5, open 08:00-19:00; Mon, Wed, Sun until 18.00) and at Dammtor station (open 08:00-19:45, Sat 10:00-16:00, Sun closed). They deal with general en-quiries as well as hotel reservations, tickets for events, package tours, hand out maps and useful brochures, and sell the Hamburg Card. You can also call - the phone is manned from 09:00-19:00, Sun closed. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

Tourist information

White Lounge Barmbeker Str. 2, MBorgweg, tel. 40185919, [email protected], www.hamburg-white-lounge.de. They were not joking when they named this designer bar. Apart from some green accents, the lighting and the drinks and food, everything here is devoid of colour - leaving it up to you and your friends to paint the night the way you like it. The restaurant section has a kaiten belt rolling fresh sushi and tapas around the diners, while there are several other funky spaces for lounging with a drink - including a terrace with views over the Osterbek canal. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Sat 16:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00.

Jazz clubs Birdland Gärtnerstr. 122, MHoheluftbrücke, tel. 40 52 77, [email protected], www.jazzclub-birdland.de. The small sign announcing Birdland is easy to miss. Once inside, however, the talented musicians and relaxed atmosphere predominate and make for a thoroughly

enjoyable evening. Space is limited, but don’t fret if you arrive late; standing somehow adds to the intimacy of the experience. The website lists the full program. QOpen 20:30 - 01:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. E

Pubs London Pub D-3, Hans-Albers-Platz 18, MReeperbahn, tel. 31 64 57, www.london-pub.de. The music can vary from heavy metal to The Beatles at this small British pub situated directly on the Reeperbahn. The interior is dark, and on weekends try to arrive early to avoid a line. During the earlier hours a seat is easy to secure and a conversation enjoyable... unless the heavy metal blasts. There is a large screen TV which will air the World Cup. And as a bonus, the bathrooms were surprisingly clean. QOpen 16:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 04:00.

Molly Malone D-3, Hans-Albers-Platz 15, MReeperbahn, tel. 31 79 15 63. Enjoy a beer or cocktail at this Irish pub. A range of talented (and less talented) musicians play a mixture of rock and folk music. Even those that cannot sing particularly well are entertaining though. The mood is light and in between sets a lively conversation is possible. QOpen 19:00 - 01:00, Thu 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. E

Murphy’s D-3, Friedrichstr. 24, MReeperbahn. Feel as if you have been transported back to the Emerald Isle, except for the fact that you are smack in the centre of St. Pauli. English is not a foreign language in this bar. Frequented by tourists and expats, this bar has live music and a wide selection of beers. Bartenders are friendly and frequently involved in the on-going scene. One even took to the microphone when we visited. No cover charge. QOpen 19:00 - 01:00, Thu 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. E

Kattjahren 1a, Marktplatz, Hamburg Volksdor f (U1 U-Bahn), www.r4rules.de. Every Thursday the r4rules! Club at Riff offers an alternative to mainstream nightlife options in town, with concerts and club

events for all styles and cultures. The programme is usually a mix of good music: rock, reggae, elektro, punk, funk... as long as it’s authentic and fun. Add some artists, performers and other clubs and you have r4rules!

r4rules! @ Riff


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WHAT TO SEE 31WHAT TO SEE


Krameramtsstuben E-3, Krayenkamp 10/11, MRödingsmarkt, tel. 428 41 23 60. Directly translated, the name means “shopkeeper office flats“. This historic area right outside St. Michel dates back to the 17th century. Today small restaurants and souvenir shops fill the old buildings. One of the buildings has been restored as a museum and is open to visitors. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

KZ-Gedenkstätte Neuengamme, tel. 428 13 10, www.kz-gedenkstaette-neuengamme.de. The concentration camp Neuengamme was created by the Nazis in 1938 as a work camp. An exhibit and memorial have since been erected to remind us of the atrocities of the Second World War and those who perished. Detailed directions can be found on the website or by calling. The exhibit is also in English and guided group tours in English can also be arranged. QOpen 09:30 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Admission free.

Miniatur Wunderland F-4, Kehrwieder 2, MMeßberg, tel. 300 68 00, www.miniatur-wunderland.de. There’s nothing miniature about the queues waiting to get into this place. If you can be bothered to hang around, then expect the largest H0 model railway layout in the world and lots of other models. The shop’s fun too, but only if you’re seven or a little bit sad. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00, Tue 09:30 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:30 - 20:00. Admission €10/7, children €5. Hamburg CARD


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Museum für Kunst und Gewerbe H-3, Steintorplatz, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 42 81 34 27 32, [email protected], www.mkg-hamburg.de. Just keep your eye out for a beautiful yellow building located outside the main train station. It houses one of Europe’s renowned exhibits of applied arts. Design, graphics and photography constitute the core of this museum’s exhibits. Unfortunately, texts are only in German. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission €8. Hamburg CARD


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Hamburger Kunsthalle Glockengießer wall, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 13 12 00, www.hamburger-kunsthalle.de. Comprising of three buildings from 1869, 1919 and 1997 and packed full of wonderful art from the 14th century to the present day including some fine example of work by Rembrandt, Renoir, Monet, Kokoschka, Klee and some fine examples of Picasso’s early Cubist works. There’s a great bookshop to, temporary shows, and, somewhat surprising, and underground car park. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission €8,50. Hamburg CARD


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Hamburgmuseum E-3, Holstenwall 24, MSt. Pauli, tel. 42 81 32 23 80, [email protected], www.hamburgmuseum.de. An impressive building wi th a lighthouse-like tower perched on the roof is home to the Museum for Hamburg History. Focusing on the development of the city and its harbour, everyday life and culture, it has a great collection of artefacts, scale models, house interiors and even the complete facade of the 1605 St. Petrichurch, all illustrating the spectacular rise of Hamburg. Regular special exhibitions are held on topics related to the city. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €7,50.

Hamburg’s Art hall near the central station is a remarkable complex of three buildings - two h is tor i ca l , one new - holding an eclectic collection of art, from old masters via 19th centur y ar t to fresh modern works.

Until 7 DecCarsten Nicolai. Anti ReflexGallery of Contemporary art

Until 11 Jan 2009Max Ernst. Une semaine de bontéGallery of Contemporary art

Until 18 Jan 2009From Leonardo to PiranesiItalian drawings from 1450 to 1800

Hamburger Kunsthalle, Glockengießerwall, tel. 428 13 12 00, www.hamburger-kunsthalle.de.QOpen 10:00-18:00, Thu 10:00-21:00, Mon closed. Admission €6/4, more for special exhibitions. Hamburg CARD


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Kunsthalle


If you’re planning to make the most of your stay in Hamburg, you can’t go with-out the Hamburg CARD. Offering free use of public transport, free or reduced admission to museums and many other reductions, it can help save money while enjoying all that Hamburg has to offer to the full. The Hamburg CARD includes unlimited travel on HVV public transportation in the Greater Hamburg Area, 10% discount on souvenir articles at the Central Station Tourist Information office, 10% discount from shopping partners and 20% discount in 12 restaurants (on meals and first drink, present the Hamburg CARD before order-ing). You’ll also pay reduced prices for the Jasper airport shuttle bus, city sightseeing tours, walking tours, harbour and Alster cruises, church towers, as well as discounts at some 110 places of interest, such as the city hall, plan-etarium, zoo, wax museum, Miniature Train Wonderland, Hamburg Dungeon. There’s a minimum reduction of 30% on standard prices in over 20 museums and at least 15% off last minute tickets at 16 theatres. A day ticket (one adult plus up to three children) costs €8, and is valid on the day indicated and from 18.00 of the previous day (with the exception of tickets purchased at HVV tickets machines and on buses). The three-day ticket costs €18 and the five-day ticket €33; these are valid on the day of first use plus the following 2 or 4 days. The excellent-value group ticket is valid for up to 5 persons of any age and costs €11.80 for one day, €29.80 for three days and €51 for five days. The Hamburg CARD is available at all Hamburg Tourist Information offices (airport, central station and harbour), in various hotels as well as in youth hostels, at the Ham-burg Transit Authority (HVV) Customer Offices, ticket machines, in buses (though not the five-day ticket) and through travel agents. You can also order the card by phone (tel. +49 40 300 51 300) or via www.hamburg-tourism.de (at an extra fee). Visit any Hamburg tourist office for more informa-tion, or visit www.hamburg-tourism.de.

Hamburg à la CARDMuseums Afghan Museum F-4, Am Sandtorkai 32, MMeßberg, tel. 37 82 36, [email protected], www.afghanisches-museum.de. Started by a native Afghani to remind himself and his friends of what life was like before the 1979 Soviet invasion, this extraordinary little museum is packed with recreations of ordinary Afghan life and culture as well as some exquisite examples of silverware and musical instruments. There’s a traditional tea room here too, taking the place of the usual sterile museum café. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Admission €3/2,50. Children 1,50.

BallinStadt Veddeler Bogen 2, MVeddel, tel. 31 97 91 60, www.ballinstadt.de. At the opposite end of New York’s Ellis Island, the new BallinStadt ‘emigration city’ museum focuses on the mass emigration from Europe to the New World, when over 5 million people left from Hamburg harbour. Texts, films, interactive displays and original artefacts give insight in the passengers’ circumstances and the facilities provided by the Hapag shipping company. The museum also has the world’s most complete emigration archive, with all departures between 1850 and 1934. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €9.80. Hamburg CARD


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Bucerius Kunst Forum G-3, Rathausmarkt 2, MRathaus, tel. 360 99 60, [email protected], www.buceriuskunstforum.de. Founded by the Ebelin and Gerd Bucerius Zeit Foundation in 2002, the Bucerius Kunst Forum has already hosted some of the world’s premiere art. Exhibits typically run for a three-month span and feature in-depth portrayals of artists’ work or different time periods. Exhibits and brochures are in English and German. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00. Admission €5. Hamburg CARD


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Cap San Diego E-4, Überseebrücke, MLandungsbrücken, tel. 36 42 09, [email protected], www.capsandiego.de. Nestled into the Hamburg harbour is the Cap San Diego, one of the last classic cargo ships. It has come to be known as the “white swan of the South Atlantic.” After almost 20 years of travelling back and forth from Hamburg to South America, the Cap San Diego came to rest where you can find it today. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €6. children €2,50.

City Model F-3, Wexstr. 7, MGänsemarkt, tel. 428 40 21 94. A fabulous little find this scale model of the city has yet to offer any information in English but is well worth the visit. Much more interesting than the city’s model museum, this architect’s dream creation is a massive recreation of the city and is extremely useful if you get lost or need o know where just about anything is. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. Free.

German Customs Museum Alter Wandrahm 16, MMeßberg, tel. 30 08 76 11, www.museum-zoll.de. Whatever you do, don’t ask the man in the hut outside for directions. He’s a dummy, and the first of many exhibits this fascinating museum has in store. Split into two main sections the museum focuses on Germany’s modern-day fight against smuggling and counterfeiting as well as offering an insight into the history of German border control. It sounds terrible, but this really is a great museum. Highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Free.

Hamburg Dungeon F-4, Kehrwieder 2, MMeßberg, tel. 30 05 15 55, www.thedungeons.com. Part of the ever-growing global Dungeon franchise, if you’ve ever visited one of the other places you’ll know exactly what this place is about. Why anyone would want to queue for three hours and pay €15 only to be scared or bored is a mystery but there you go. Check the website for more information. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €15,50/13,50. Children €11. Hamburg CARD


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A “hands-on” museum! Grippers, bales of rubber, coffee-sacks, sampling implements: The Speicherstadtmuseum is located on two floors of a red-brick warehouse that is over a hundred years old (in the authentic surroundings of the dockland warehouse district in the former free-port) where typical goods and tools collected from traditional warehouse companies and business premises of the warehouse district are exhibited. Further topics are coffee- and tea-trading. The engaging and interactive exhibition emphasises the skills and ingenuity of the work of warehousemen.The Museum offers expert guided tours in English, Ger-man, Spanish and French.

Speicherstadtmuseum, St. Annenufer 2, tel. 32 11 91, www.speicherstadtmuseum.deAdult 3,00 € / Concessions 1,90 €QOpen 1 April to 31 October: Tue-Fri 10:00-17:00, Sat, Sun and holidays 10:00-18:00. 1 November to 31 March: Tue-Sundays 10:00-17:00.

Speicherstadtmuseum

Chilehaus, MMessberg. Every tour of Hamburg will bring you past this building. It was designed by the architect Fritz Höger between the years 1922 and 1924. Over 4,8 million bricks went into its construction. The structure served as a sign of growth after World War I and miraculously survived World War II to serve as a sign of survival.

Landungsbrücken D/E-4, MLandungsbrücken. Hamburg’s famed pier runs parallel to the Elbe along a 700-meter stretch. It was initially erected in 1839 but saw many renovations due to fire and war. Today restaurants, souvenir shops and kiosks line the pier. You can also pick up city bus tours and harbour tours here.

Peterstraße E-3, MSt. Paul. Actually a recreation of something that never actually existed, Peterstraße was built after the war as a way of remembering the past. Featuring some wonderful examples of both brick and half-timbered houses, the buildings are copies of bourgeois residential property that were built in the city between 1610 and 1780 set in a pleasant, car-free part of the city.

Reeperbahn D-3, MReeperbahn. While Hamburg’s Reeperbahn may not appeal to all visitors, you cannot visit the city without a quick stop. Famous for its red-light district, sex shops, entertainment, restaurants and bars, there is plenty to keep you occupied. At night the area lights up and is full of locals and tourists. Don’t let its reputation scare you though - it’s perfectly safe to stroll around, and there is something for everyone.

Trostbrücke G-3, MRödingsmarkt. Hamburg has more bridges than Venice and Amsterdam combined due to its extensive canal system. The Trost Bridge symbolizes the oldest connection between the Episcopal Old City and the earl-led New City. Originally built in wood in the thirteenth century, it was rebuilt in 1881 to last.



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St. Nikolai Mah-nmal E-4, Willy-Brandt-Strasse 60, MStadthaus-b r ü c ke , w w w .m a h n m a l - s t -nikolai.de. First buil t as a chapel in 1195 dedicat-ed to the patron sain t of sai lors, the St. Nicholas church was dam-aged three times by l i gh tning and f i res b efore th e 19th century neo-gothi c s truc ture

was damaged by bombs and fire in 1943. The church was left as an impressive memorial to the destruction of war, with just the battered tower standing. When finished in 1874, the 147m-high tower was the high-est building in the world (it’s currently the 4th highest church tower), and recently a glass elevator has been installed, zipping visitors up to the viewing platform at 76m high. The exhibition in the crypt details the history of the church and the wartime destruction of Hamburg. Q Open 10:30-17:30. Admission €3,50/2,80, chil-dren €2. Tickets valid both for exhibition and viewing platfrom. Hamburg CARD


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St. Nikolai Mahnmal

Germany‘s oldest waxworks exhibition

Spielbudenplatz 3 Hamburg St. Pauli

Tel: 040/310317 Fax: 040/512963 www.panoptikum.de

Mon-Fri 11:00 - 21:00 Sat 11:00 - 24:00 Sun 10:00 - 21:00

Museum für Völkerkunde F-1, Rothenbaumchaussee 64, MHallerstr, tel. 018 05 30 88 88, w w w.voelkerkundemuseum.com. The Museum for Ethnography was founded in 1879 and has become one of the largest of its kind in Europe. It holds over 350,000 objects, and documents the art and cultural history of humans. The museum shop and restaurant offer pleasant interruptions during your visit. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission €10.

Museumshafen Oevelgönne Anleger Neumühlen, tel. 419 127 61, www.museumshafen-oevelgoenne.de. When a ship has run its course, there are few more desirable places to retire than in this harbour. They call this museum a harbour for old-timer ships. About twenty ships of all shapes, sizes and nationalities have been renovated and now reside in the museum’s harbour.

P a n o p t i k u m D - 3 , Spielbudenplatz 3, MSt. Pauli, tel. 31 03 17, www.p a n o p t i k u m . d e . T h e Panoptikum is the oldest exhibi tion of wax figures in Germany. The elaboratel y decorated wax images of over

120 personalities from the world of culture, history and entertainment have been admired by visitors for over 125 years. In addition to the images of present-day celebrities you will find exhibits that are over 100 years old. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Admission €5, children €3. Hamburg CARD


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Hamburg has a fabulous new attraction: The BallinStadt Emigration City – a place where you can relive history! On July 4th 2007 the interactive exhibition opened its doors in Hamburg. On the historical grounds where Albert Ballin, General Manager of the shipping company HAPAG, built mass accommodation for the many thousands of people who were arriving in Hamburg at the turn of the 20th century to wait for the departure of their ships. For over 5 million emigrants who left Europe between 1850 and 1939 Hamburg was the gateway to the world. BallinStadt is dedicated to them. In exact replicas of three of BallinStadt’s buildings with living and sleeping quarters visitors can relive every stage of emigration - from departure, the crossing, the arrival in New York and the emigrants’ final home. The outstanding “edutainment” exhibition contains original documents and artefacts as well as numerous interactive exhibits that enable visitors to immerse themselves in history and experience the world as it was in the days of the emigrants. A particular highlight of the exhibition are the passenger lists from 1850 to 1934. It is the largest collection of passenger lists from emigrant ships in the world and therefore a unique genealogical source available at the BallinStadt family research centre. BallinStadt, Veddeler Bogen 2, 040-319 79 1616, open daily from 10am – 6pm. By ferry boat: St. Pauli Landungsbrücken, jetty 10 every two hours from 10am-6pm. By subway: S3/S31 Veddel. Hamburg CARD


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BallinStadt Emigration City


Planetarium Hindenburgstraße 1b, Stadtpark, MLattenkamp, tel. 42 88 65 20, www.planetarium-hamburg.de. Established in 1930, Hamburg’s Planetarium is one of the oldest in the world. It is located in the centre of the city park in an old water tower. The planetarium offers shows, lectures, concerts and exhibits. Headsets with English text available. QOpen , Mon, Tue 09:00 - 17:00, Wed 09:00 - 21:00, Thu 09:00 - 21:30, Fri 09:00 - 21:45, Sat 12:30 - 21:30, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Admission €7,50. Hamburg CARD


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Spicy’s Gewürzmuseum F-4, Am Sandtorkai 32, MMeßberg, tel. 36 79 89, www.spicys.de. A deliciously fragrant affair and reputed to be the only one of its kind in the world, this small museum is packed with good things, tracing the history of the city’s shipping trade through the world of spice. Find lots of reconstructions of old spice shops, harbour scenes, grinding equipment and much more. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Admission €3. children €1.

U-Boot U-434 I-4, Versmannstr. 23c, MSteinstraße, www.u-434.de. Feel like you have entered an espionage film while aboard this submarine. Then imagine being one of 78 Russian crewmen who used it for reconnaissance purposes - you might begin to feel some claustrophobia. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. Admission €8.

Churches St. Jacobi Jacobikirchhof 22, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 303 73 70, www.jacobus.de. Visit to see the world famous organ here. Built in 1693, the organ has 60 registers and almost 4,000 pipes. Tours are offered every Thursday at 12:00 and are accompanied by a short concert. Services are on Sunday at 10:00. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

Enjoy the view from Hamburg´s highest church tower, using the glass panorama elevator to get to the 76 metre high viewing platform.Th e exhibition in the documenta-tion centre tells the story of the St. Nikolai church and Hamburg´s destruction in the Second World War.

Open: 10.30 – 17.30Admission: combi ticket: € 3,50 reduced 2,80, children 2,-Mention the password „Gomorrha“when buying a ticket, and you‘ll travel at the reduced fee.St. Nikolai MemorialWilly-Brandt-Straße 60, Hamburg, tel. 37 11 25www.mahnmal-st-nikolai.de

Visit the

a reminder of the destructionof the Second World War

St. Nikolai Memorial

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St. Katharinen Katharinenkirchhof 1, tel. 30 37 47 30, www.katharinen-hamburg.de. The base of the spire of the mighty St. Katharinen Church is the oldest ‘preserved’ building in Hamburg. Originally built near the harbour in the 13th century, it served the shipbuilders and brewers living in the district. The 15th-century nave was complemented by a spectacular 115m-high Baroque spire in the 17th century. During World War II, bombing destroyed everything but the walls and afformentioned tower; the church was consequently rebuilt and reopened in 1955. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.

St. Michaelis Englische Planke 1a, MRödingsmarkt, tel. 37 67 81 00, www.st-michaelis.de. Hamburg’s main protestant church is the third to be built on this site. The current beautiful beast is the work of Johann Leonhard Prey and Ernst Georg Sonnindates and dates from 1786, with two major 20th-century reconstructions after a fire in 1906 and again from the inevitable bombing during WWII. Dedicated to the archangel Michael, whose bronze figure guards the entrance, the inside is fairly plain, with white and gold embellishments that give the interior an almost theatrical feel. The spire can be climbed and is worth the trip, and the church is also a popular concert venue, boasting its own internationally renowned choir. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Spire €3, children €2. Hamburg CARD


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St. Petri Mönckebergstr. 6, MRathaus, www.sankt-petri.de. First mentioned in a document dating from 1195 and finding more or less its present shape and form around 1320, the mammoth St. Petri is a classic Gothic design with three naves and high, arched ceilings. Almost completely destroyed during the Great Fire of 1842, St. Petri was rebuilt seven years later and is more or less as it was before the disaster. The inside is worth a look not least for what can only be described as a wholly awe-insipiring pulpit, as is a trip to the top of the steeple which affords by far the best view of the city. The church has a large modern organ, and free concerts are given every Wednesday at 17:00. QOpen 10:00 - 18:30, Wed 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.

Markets Fish Market C-4, Große Elbstr. 137, MLandungsbrücken. One cannot visit Hamburg without making a stop at the famed Fischmarkt which began in 1703 and is one of Hamburg’s beloved traditions. While many aim to be there at the market’s opening straight from a night on the Reeperbahn, many also stroll in after a good night’s sleep. There is music and food in the large hall, and stands offering fish, fruit and vegetables, cheese, flowers and plenty of Hamburg souvenirs. QOpen 05:00 - 09:30.

Do you want to gain aninsight into this life?

www.dialog-im-dunkeln.dewww.dinner-in-the-dark.comwww.seminare-im-dialog.de

Dialogue in the Dark Dialogue in the Dark is located in a historical building in Hamburg’s Speicherstadt (warehouse district). It offers the unique opportunity to experience an exhibition in entirely dark rooms through which you are led by visually impaired guides. On your way through a park, a city, in the bar or during a boat trip those senses which are usually neglect-ed are sharpened. Open Tue-Fri 09:00-17:00, Sat-Sun 11:00-19:00, Mon closed. Please call tel. 0700 44 33 2000 to make a booking.

Dinner in the Dark – Test your taste budsEnjoy a champagne reception in our lobby and a seasonal four course set menu in com-plete darkness. Sharpen your senses and test your table

manners. The price of €55 per person includes the recep-tion, a short guided tour through one room of our exhibition and the set menu with table water. Please book in advance at tel. 0700 44 33 2000.

Dialogue in the Dark, Alter Wandrahm 4, 20457 Hamburg, tel. 0700 44 33 2000, [email protected].

Dialogue in the dark

One for the automobile lovers: a special and sleek exhibi-tion about classic cars, rare racing cars and car curiosities, with a focus on Porsche and arranged around the themes people, power and cars. The location is in a historic building and the show is regularly updated and changed. There’s a bar and lounge area for relaxing after admiring the fantastic cars. The well-designed Prototyp website is an excellent appetiser to the show to come. Prototyp H-4, Lohseplatz 1a, tel. 39 99 69 68, www.prototyp-hamburg.de.QTue-Sun 10:00-18:00

Prototyp

University Fleamarket F-2, MDammtor, tel. 270 27 66, www.flohcampus.de. Take a Saturday morning to stop by the university Flohmarkt for some older Hamburg memorabilia. The items range from used paperback novels to hand-knit gloves and to what appears to be antiques. If you take the time to look through some of the junk you might find something particular to Hamburg or to Germany that is worth taking home. Q Open Sat 08:00-16:00.

Weekly markets, w w w.hamburg-magazin.de/st_wochenmaerkte-hamburg.htm. The “Hamburger Wochenmärkte” occur each week in different parts of the city on different days. They typically offer fresh meats, fruits, vegetables, cheeses, flowers and a wide variety of crafts and gift ideas. Bring a basket and collect some tasty local products. People are generally very friendly and will allow you to sample before purchasing. Notice: more than 50 markets in town with changing opening times

Parks & Gardens Ohlsdorf Cemetery, MOhlsdorf. This cemetery is the largest in Europe and second in the world after Chicago’s. The cemetery was designed as a park with 25,000 trees and many other plants that make for a spectacular sight in spring. The graves are old and artistic and add to the park’s overall beauty. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.

Planten un Blomen F-1, St. Petersburgerstr. 28, MStephansplatz, tel. 23 21 50, www.plantenunblomen.hamburg.de. Taking its name from the old Hamburg dialect for plants and flowers this superb green paradise features a huge variety of trees, plants and flowers as well as a charming Japanese garden. Massively popular during the summer, the park puts on events such as a daily water, music and light show at 22:00 (also at 14:00, 16:00 and 18:00, but without the lights). Also find an adventure playground to kid the children amused. Recommended. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.

Stadtpark, MBorgweg. Hamburg’s summers are best enjoyed outdoors, and where better to play frisbee, bask in the sun or go for a stroll then the city park. You can rent paddleboats or canoes on the lake, enjoy one of the outdoor cafés and beer gardens or head over to the playground.

Tierpark Hagenbeck (Zoo) Lokstedter Grenzstr. 2, MHagenbecks Tierpark, www.hagenbeck.de. If your children need a break from old churches and other historic landmarks (or if you do) the zoo offers an enjoyable alternative. With over 2500 different animals, including elephants, apes and giraffes, you will be entertained for hours. There is also a small petting zoo for children. Q Open: March to June: daily 09:00-18:00, July to August: daily 09:00-19:00, Sept. to Oct.: daily 09:00-18:00, Nov. to Feb.: daily 09:00-16:30, Christmas Eve and New Years Eve: 09:00-13:00 Admission €15/10. Hamburg CARD


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Sightseeing tours Alster Tour, MJungfernstieg, tel. 357 42 40. Pick up the boat at Jungfernstieg and experience Hamburg’s beauty from the water. The tour departs every 30 minutes and offers great views of Hamburg from the water. Some of the most spectacular homes are located on the Outer Alster. During the warm summer months the boat’s roof comes off to showcase the weather. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €8/5. Hamburg CARD


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Hamburg Light Tour, tel. 30 05 18 00, www.hummelbahn.de. Enjoy the lights of the city on the city lights tour. This pricey choo-choo train ride will give you a view of Hamburg’s worthy sights including the banks of the Outer Alster, the light show in Planten un Blomen, the red-lit Reeperbahn, the magnificent harbour and the historic buildings of the city. Q Admission €13/8. Hamburg CARD


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Harbour tours D/E-4, MLandungsbrücken. Pick up a Hafenrundfahrt from one of the many vendors at Landungsbrücken; departures are every 30 minutes. The tours will provide you with an overview of the goings-on in the harbour, an inside look at the Speicherstadt area and a brief tutorial in container ships. See also where the Queen Mary II docks when she visits Hamburg. Ask for an English tourguide. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €10.

Top-Tour Hamburg H-2/3, Hauptbahnhof, tel. 641 37 31, www.top-tour-hamburg.de. This double-decker tour bus runs every 30 minutes and gives you a good overview of Hamburg’s main attractions. A great way to become familiar with the city before deciding which are your must-sees. There are both English and German tours available so check with the drivers to see when each will leave. Most depart from the main train station. QOpen 09:30 - 17:00. Admission €14/7. Hamburg CARD


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Hamburg would be nothing without its harbour. The shipping business has been very influential on the development of the city, and still is the most important activity in town. And it’s still booming - in 2006, Hamburg’s harbour had 134.900 tonnes of cargo turnover, more than double the amount of 1991. The switch that was made to container shipping in recent decades has proved essential, as now 97% of all cargo passing through Hamburg is in containers, compared to 68% in 1990. Hamburg had only 200 residents when the harbour was first mentioned in documents in the 9th century. The town got market rights in 937, marking the start of Hamburg’s economic progress. The port is considered to have started in 1189, when Emperor Frederick Barbarossa’s charter officially granted the town market rights and customs-free travel along the Elbe to the sea. Hamburg joined the medieval trade association of the Hanseatic League in 1321, and became an important link between cities on the Baltic coast and those along the North Sea. Trading expanded to include Scandinavia, Bruges, London and Amsterdam. At that time, trade ships were guarded from pirates, (like the infamous Klaus Störtebecker) by convoy fleets supplied by the city. The League proved very successful and Hamburg quickly grew to 16000 residents in 1450. Trade patterns shifted as the Baltic trade became less important, and the discovery of the Americas lead to new products and trading routes. The 18th century saw the start of trade with America. Hamburg’s trading fleet went from 150 ships in 1788 to 280 in 1799, and steamships were introduced from 1816, greatly increasing the ships’ reliability and speed.The harbour was expanded and modernised in the late 1800s, when new docks further away from the city centre were made. At the same time, the famous city-centre Speicherstadt warehouses were built, a massive undertaking resulting in the world’s largest single warehouse complex, even today.Hamburg joined in Bismarck’s drive for German unity, leaving just the harbour area as a customs enclave for another 114 years. The city kept modernising with new jetties at St. Pauli and the 1911 Elbe Tunnel, and by 1913 Hamburg had a million inhabitants and was the third largest harbour after London and New York. In the Second World War 80% of the harbour facilities were destroyed, but rapid reconstruction ensured the harbour was back on track by 1955. Modernisation was the keyword, and investments in container facilities paid off handsomely. The HafenCity urban planning project is the latest project to transform the harbour city; it is set to transform 160 hectares between Kehrwiederspitze and the Elbe bridges, and plans include apartments, offices, recreational facilities and a new cruise liner terminal. For more information about the harbour, see www.hafen-hamburg.de.

HAMBURG HARBOUR

Although much of the harbour is off-limits to casual visitors, it’s possible to see plenty shipping-related activities on short trips in and from the city centre. On dry land, the Speicherstadt is a great place to wander and learn about the importance of warehouses for the city’s economy. To see the city from the water, visitors can also join one of many Alster Steamer boat trips through the canals and harbours, or a trip that explores the modern harbour, passing massive container ships.

Harbour sights

Two museum ships moored in central Hamburg merit a visit.

Cap San DiegoMoored at the Überseebrücke quay, the Hamburg-built Cap San Diego freight ship from 1961 is the world’s largest functional cargo museum ship, doing regular day trips with passengers on board and even offering accommodation. You can tour the ship, visiting the cargo holds, loading gear, mooring and anchoring equipment, palaver deck, lifeboats, swimming pool and several other rooms. She’s 160m long with a loading capacity of 10,300 tons, and completed over 120 trips to South America before becoming obsolete by the containerisa-tion of cargo shipping.Cap San Diego, Überseebrücke quay, www.cap-sandiego.de. Open 10:00-18:00. Admission €6/2.50. Rooms: passenger cabins singles €72, doubles €90; captain’s cabin €125. Hamburg CARD


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Rickmer RickmersThe elegant Rickmer Rickmers three-master museum ship, moored at the Landungsbrücken, is one of the last cargo sailing ships. Made with steel in 1896, the 97m-long ship used 24 sails and was used for trips to East Asia and in Europe before finally saved from being scrapped in 1974. Visitors can tour the ships holds and crew rooms and learn more about life on the high seas. Landungsbrücken, Ponton 1a, www.rickmer-rick-mers.info. Admission €3/2. Open 10:00-18:00. Hamburg CARD


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Museum ships

H.-J. Hettchen

H.-J. Hettchen

Whether you’re a hurried businessman with just hours to spare, a weekend tourist with shopping and sights on your mind, or a backpacker with time to spare, a visit to Hamburg is most enjoyable when you plan ahead a little. The Hamburg Tourismus Board has the following suggestions for you to fill one, two or three fan days in Hamburg, be it on land, around the harbour or on the water.For more information, click to www.hamburg-tourismus.de.

One-day programmesMaritime HamburgStart off with the Long Harbour Tour which departs from the Landungsbrücken – call in advance to check if the tide is right for the trip to go through the Speicherstadt. The captain is your guide as you glide through the city for about an hour. Then walk through the old Elbe tunnel under the Elbe to the shipyard island Steinwerder, where you can enjoy the unique Elbe panorama with a view of the harbour quay, and the museum ships Michel and the Rickmer Rickmers. Finally, head for the 132-metre-high tower of St. Michaelis, the “Michel”, which is the landmark of the Hanseatic city. Its lookout point offers a marvellous view of Hamburg and the harbour. If you did not pass through the Speicherstadt on the harbour tour, you can admire the historical warehouses on a walking tour instead of visiting the Michel.

Cultural HamburgExplore the Alster by steamer, taking you along numerous canals where you can admire the splendid villas from their backyard gardens. Alternatively take a city bus or walking tour. Afterwards, find an exhibition to suit your taste. Right next to the station, the Hamburg museum row extends from the Kunsthalle past the Kunstverein and the Museum for Arts and Crafts down to the Deichtorhallen. Enough of culture – time for some shopping, and the best place to start is the stretch between the Alsterarkaden and the Town Hall. Here you’ll find plenty of shopping therapy at the chic little boutiques, shiny shopping malls and superlative department stores. Finish the day off at the splendid Hamburg Town Hall which dominates the city centre with its impressive architecture.

Hamburg all water A day fit for water lovers. Start off with the long harbour tour, followed by a walk through the Speicherstadt if the tide is too high for the sightseeing boats to sail through. Then pay visit to the museum ships moored nearby. The Alster steamer tour is next, followed by some land-based shopping leisure in the city centre.

Two-day programmeFirst day – Start off with the Alster steamer tour through the city’s canals or with a city tour on land. Next up is a visit to one of the city’s many museums, where there’s bound to be something to your liking on Hamburg’s museum row near the main train station. After lunch, it’s time for some leisurely shopping in the city centre, ending up with a visit to the Town Hall. After freshening up at the hotel head out for some evening fun at one of the hundreds of restaurants and bars in the centre, for instace at the Alsterpavillion on the Jungfernstieg which has a good view of the Alster.Second day – Hop on a barge at Landungsbrücken for the long harbour tour, followed by a walk through the old Elbe tunnel to the shipyard island Steinwerder and the museum ships moored alongside. Then head towards the St. Michaelis church for the marvellous views of Hamburg and the harbour from the tower. In the evening, choose for a meal outside of the city centre, perhaps in Blankenese, the refined Elbe neighbourhood which you can reach by HVV harbour ferry or by bus. Admire the sunset on Elbe Beach.

Three-day programmeFirst day – Start off with the Alster steamer tour, visiting Hamburg’s Town Hall afterwards. After lunch, stroll over to Planten un Blomen, the famous park which includes the botanical garden, with a greenhouse and the largest Japanese garden in Europe, a silent but impressive attraction. Have dinner at one of central Hamburg’s restaurants.Second day - Hop on a barge at Landungsbrücken for the long harbour tour, followed by a walk through the old Elbe tunnel to the shipyard island Steinwerder and the museum ships moored alongside. Then head towards the St. Michaelis church for the marvellous views of Hamburg and the harbour from the tower. In the evening, choose for a meal outside of the city centre, perhaps in Blankenese, the refined Elbe neighbourhood which you can reach by HVV harbour ferry or by bus. Admire the sunset on Elbe Beach.Third day – Get to know the city better on a red double-decker bus city tour or the Hamburg Hummeltrain. Interrupt your tour in the Speicherstadt district and explore the impressive historical area, perhaps visiting a museum here, or getting back on the bus to visit one of the museums on Hamburg’s museum row. In the afternoon take a bus or metro to Tierpark Hagenbeck zoo, which has 2,500 animals living in natural open enclosures.

HAMBURG DAY BY DAY

38 GETTING AROUND


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MAIL & PHONES

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Hamburg is supported by an extensive system of public transportation. After taking a few minutes to get oriented, you have an inexpensive, accessible metro and bus sys-tem at your service. Taxis are available should you need to arrive somewhere in a matter of minutes.

AirportHamburg Fuhlsbüttel Airport (HAM, tel. 507 50, www.ham.airport.de) is just 8 kilometres outside the city centre and has international and domestic flights. It currently connects to 52 cities abroad and is one of Germany’s top airports. International travel usually requires check-in 2 hours prior to departure and domestic travel one. While the lines are typically not too long, the check-in process can be, so allow yourself the full time.To get there, take the U- or S-Bahn to Ohlsdorf and change to Airport Express bus N°110. A €2,50 single ticket is required for the trip. Allow a half hour travel time from the ciy centre.Alternatively, hop on the Airport Express bus directly from Hauptbahnhof station to the airport. Tickets are €5 (children €2), €4 if you’re in a group of six or more. Buses depart at 04:40, 5.00, 05:15, then every 15 minutes until 19:00, then every 20 minutes until 21:20.

Car rentalAlamo Spaldingstr. 77, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 23 51 35 20, www.alamo.de. Also at Hamburg Airport, tel. 50 75 23 01. QOpen 07:30 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Europcar B-2, Holstenstr. 156, MFeldstr., tel. 306 82 60, www.europcar.de. Also at Hamburg-Dammtor station, Theodor-Heuss Platz 7, tel. 33 59 41. Q Open 24hrs.Sixt D-3, Millerntorplatz 1, MLandungsbrücken, tel. 180 525 25 25, www.sixt.de. Check out the www.sixti.com website for very cheap rental bargains.

Public transportThe U-Bahn (metro) and S-Bahn (commuter trains, un-derground in the city centre) are the quickest way to get around the different areas of Hamburg. They are marked by S- or U- and a number. Each station has a map showing the route; note the ultimate destination of the line and look for that on the trains and signs. There are vertical signs on the platforms that show the stops and the length of time it will take to get there, as well as overheard screens. One-way tickets cost €2,50 (children €0,90) and must be purchased before boarding. You do not need to validate the ticket but it should be with you for the entire ride. Random checks may lead to a steep penalty if you are caught riding without one. If you have any hesitations, try asking a local - Germans are typically helpful when it comes to transportation.

The buses use the same tickets, which can be bought on board; pick up a transport map at the tourist office. Full transport information in English can be found at www.hvv.de.

TaxisTaxis in Hamburg can be expensive, especially since the city is so large. Even so, they are in high demand so make sure to call ahead if you need an early morning ride. They can be found pretty easily at night in the more popular hotspots. You can request ahead of time car seats for children or minivans, or taxis that accept credit cards. All taxis charge the same rates, and you won’t get ripped off.

Autoruf, tel. 44 10 11.Das Taxi Funk & Service, tel. 61 11 22.Hansa Funktaxi, tel. 21 12 11.Taxi Hamburg, tel. 66 66 66.

TrainsHamburg has three major train stations (Hauptbahnhof main station on Kirchenallee, Altona on Präsident-Krahn-Straße and Dammtor on Edmund-Siemers-Allee) so be sure to know where to board and exit the train.

Deutsche Bahn (DB) operates InterCityExpress (ICE), EuroCity (EC) and InterCity (IC) trains to and from Hamburg. If a seat is a must, make sure to make a reservation in advance - especially at weekends. If you do not have time to purchase your ticket beforehand in one of the stations, you can do so on the train at a small surcharge. However, make sure to find the DB ticket person quickly so they do not think you are trying to get a free ride. DB’s website www.bahn.de is in English and fantastic, allowing online ticket purchases with credit cards. The main station is fully loaded with a food court, super-markets, bookstores, drugstores, a pharmacy and other small shops.

Travel AgentsSTA Travel Grindelallee 35, tel. 45 03 84 00, www.statravel.de. Specialised in budget deals and youth travel. QOpen 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.



Express mailDHL B-1, Kaltenkirchener Str. 1-5, www.dhl.de. Also at Neuer Kamp 31 and Altonaer Poststrasse 9-13. Q Open 24hrs.FedEx Heselstücken 13. Also at Grossmannstrasse 140. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Internet cafésHaus der Jugend E-3, Alfred-Wegener-Weg 3, tel. 31 79 08 02, www.stintfang.de.Match Games Internetcafé Rothenbaumchaussee 61, tel. 41 49 76 26, www.matchgames.de.

The phone codes for Germany’s main cities. The longer the code, the more piddly the town.

Berlin 030Cologne 0221Dresden 0351 Munich 089Dortmund 0231Frankfurt 069Hamburg 040Hanover 0511Leipzig 0341Nürnberg 0911Stuttgart 0711

City codesMobile phonesIf you’re looking to buy a SIM card for your mobile phone, your best bet is to visit one of the department stores which offers the full range of cards.

O2 Hohenzollernring 127, tel. 882 10, www.o2online.de.T-Punkt H-3, Spitalerstr. 9. The T-Online shop.

PostDeutsche Post H-3, Mönckebergstr. 7, w w w.deutschepost.de. Also at Kaltenkirchener Str. 1 and Alter Wall 38. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

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41SHOPPING


Almost all shops (including grocery stores) are closed on Sundays, with the exception of some tourist shops. On Saturdays many small boutiques will close mid-afternoon. All major shopping centres are open until 20:00 from Monday to Saturday. Note that credit cards are not widely accepted; there’s always an ATMs nearby however. Marktstrasse (U-Bahn to Feldstrasse) is Hamburg’s own Penny Lane. The street offers a wide variety of second-hand and boutique shops ranging from cheap to pricey and from retro to modern. The “Designer Strip” on Neuer Wall (U-Bahn to Jungfern-stieg) is lined with Cartier, Hermes and other elite stores - come armed with a credit card or husband. Eppendorfer Baum, Eppendorfer Landstrasse, Lehmweg und Hegestrasse offer a multitude of up-scale boutiques and some great second-hand shops. A worthy trip for the serious shopper; U-Bahn to Eppenforfer Baum.

BooksThalia H-3, Spitalerstr. 8, MHauptbahnhof. This chain of bookstores offers a wide range of books and periodicals in English, as well as offer a range of Hamburg souvenirs and small gift ideas. Also at Große Bleichen 19 and Hauptstrasse 10. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Department storesAlsterhaus G-2, Jungfernstieg 16-20, MJungfern-stieg, www.city-map.germany-cities.com/hamburg/gps_x/9,9642/gps_y/53,5584.html. An upscale depart-ment store facing the Binnenalster. The fourth floor has a buffet restaurant with a small play area for kids and changing room. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.Galeria Kaufhof Mönckebergstr. 3, MMönckebergstr., tel. 33 30 70. Germany’s ubiquitous behemoth department store is the best place in town for ladies’ cosmetics, clothes, electrical goods, chocolates and everything else under the sun. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.Karstadt G-3, Mönckebergstr. 16, MRathaus, tel. 309 40. A huge department store on six floors currently undergo-ing massive renovation work, selling everything from jewellery to electrical goods to everyday household items. QOpen 09:30 - 20:00. Closed Sun.Saturn G-3, Mönckebergstr. 16, MMönckebergstr., tel. 30 95 80. Allegedly the largest electrical goods store in the world this big grey lump is packed with floor upon floor of all those gadgets you forgot to pack and more besides. QOpen 09:30 - 20:00, Thu, Fri 09:30 - 21:00. Closed Sun.

FashionAnson’s H-3, Mönckebergstr. 8, MMönckebergstr., tel. 32 81 71 67. Four floors of quality menswear including some jolly dapper pink businessmen’s shirts and one or two rather alarming ties. QOpen 10:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.Budapester Schuhe Neuer Wall 30, MJungfernstieg. The store is small but the selection large and impressive. A great place to find designer shoes. The prices are no bargain though. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.H&M G-2, Jungfernstieg 16-20, MJungfernstieg, tel. 35 01 53 90. Some might say H&M has invaded Hamburg like the plague - at last count there were 13 in the city. Good for affordable, trendy clothes. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.Hugo Shop F/G-3, Neuer Wall 19, MJungfernstieg, tel. 41 91 34 07. Who’d have thought that Hugo Boss carried so many different lines and accessories? However, proof is in the store. All Hugo Boss clothing and accessories under one roof. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

Hamburg airport, just 8,5km from central Hamburg, is a departure point for many travellers, and the varied shopping there is good reason head out a little earlier before your flight. The range of shops includes everything from traveller’s gear, electronics and phones, sweets, tobacco, books to fashion – from big brands to erotic lingerie. Of course there’s an opportunity to find the perfect souvenir of your stay, perhaps a Hamburg jacket, a Hamburg Airport watch or some eel soup! With 18 food and drink outlets, there’s no reason to stay hungry or thirsty for long – from quick snacks to gourmet meals, it’s all available. Shops and restaurants are open daily, at least from 09:00-20:00 but often longer. For more information, visit www.ham.airport.de.

Airport shopping

At TThoch3, the eye will quickly succumb to oversatura-tion of impressions. From rubber ducks, bibs with pirate imprints for punks’ offspring, paintings of Hamburg and Hamburg souvenirs to foorball-field cuff links. Blue, or-ange, pink and polka-dotted. All shapes, all price levels. The selections at TThoch3 is inexhaustible, because the clients are insatiable. TThoch3 is the optimal stop for finding a memento from Hamburg. Tonja Tietjen has gifts for every occasion and for all friends and relatives, and even for the shopper him/herself. TThoch3 has af-fordable things make life worth living. And as life and the reasons to give presents change all the time, so does the selection of articles. TT³, Beim Grünen Jäger 10, Hamburg, tel. 040-59 46 47 54, www.TThoch3.de.QOpen Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00.

TThoch3


An original Hamburg kontor trading house dating from 1912 has been transformed to house 37 shops, attrac-tive restaurants representing cuisines from around the world and the five-star Hyatt hotel. With the entrance and interior balcony decorated with striking animal sculptures by Barry Baldwin, the complex has enough distractions to keep you busy from morning to night.

Levante-Haus H-3, Mönckebergstr. 7, MMönck-ebergstr., tel. 326816, www.levantehaus.com.QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

Levantehaus

This monumental old malt factory now houses an elegant shopping centre dedicated to home interiors, design and lifestyle. Located on the Fischmarkt in Hamburg’s central harbour near the Landungsbrücke, the complex houses dozens of renowned and lesser known stores and brands, including Poggenpohl, Ligne Roset, Alessi, Forum, Bulthaup, and Bang & Olufsen. To make shopping as pleasant as possible, visitors are also welcome on Sundays when the shops are open for viewing (though no purchasing) between 10:00 and 18:00, and parents can leave their children free of charge in the supervised play area. Finally, the CoChine bistro offers drinks, snacks and meals.

Stilwerk B-4, Große Elbstr. 68, MKönigstr, tel. 30 62 11 00, [email protected] 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

Stilwerk

Mercado A-3, Ottenser Hauptstr., MAltona, tel. 398 68 40. Germany’s version of a mall, the Mercado provides one-stop shopping at its best. The center offers over 60 stores from food to flowers to clothes to books. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.Rathaus Passage/ Markt G-3, Rathaus Markt, MJungfernstieg, tel. 30 62 02 96. Here you can find souvenirs, typical street food and other reminders of your time in Hamburg. Plus, admire Hamburg’s beautiful Rathaus at the same time.

Speciality shopsBären Treff G-3, Mönckebergstr. 17, MJungfernstieg. For some reason many people tend to associate Germany with gummy bears. Perhaps this store is the reason. Take home a giant gummy bear or an assortment of gummy candies from this store.Habitat F-3, Neuer Wall 54, MJungfernstieg, tel. 357658-0. A much more manageable, though perhaps less affordable furniture store, Habitat is everything Ikea should be. Two locations in Hamburg serve all parts of town. Also on Große Elbstrasse 264. QOpen 10:30 - 20:00. Closed Sun.Lego Store Spitalerstrasse 12, tel. 40 18 59 41, www.lego.com. More Lego than you can handle, in this city-centre shop dedicated to the colourful plastic bricks.Tee Gschwendner G-3, Jungfernstieg 7, MJungfern-stieg, tel. 3 48 06 20. Also try Tee Handelskontor Bremen, Große Bleichen 21. Two tea houses with a variety of reason-ably priced tea in decorative packing. Not to mention, the staff in both stores were incredibly friendly and helpful. A nice gift idea. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

Kenvelo H-3, Spitalerstr. 4, MHauptbahnhof, tel. 52 65 5 - 0. Another favourite for young clothing shoppers. Prices are reasonable and choices are varied and hip. Gives the younger crowd an alternative to H&M. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.Massimo Dutti H-3, Mönckebergstr. 7, MMönck-ebergstr., tel. 32 00 49 99. Menswear on the ground floor and something for the ladies up the stairs. Everything from casual to sporty to classic. Shoes too. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.Peek & Cloppenburg H-3, Mönckebergstr. 6, MRathaus, tel. 339 67 01. A large store selling a greeable clothin g for men, women and chi ldren. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.Second Schanze D-1, Schulterblatt 75, MStern-schanze, tel. 43276434. Find some great second-hand fashion at this trendy boutique. Guarantees you (almost) that you will not see yourself coming and going in a more main-stream choice. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun.Zara H-3, Mönckebergstr. 10, MMönckebergstr., tel. 30 30 98 27. Clothing for men, women and children includ-ing Calvin Klein and the rest. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.

MallsHamburg is a shopper’s dream with its numerous pas-sages and handful of malls that offer one-stop shopping.

Alte Post F-2, Poststr., MJungfernstieg. Books, clothing and a variety of higher end boutiques have found a home in Hamburg’s old main post office.Gänsemarkt Passage F-2, Gänsemarkt 50, MGänsemarkt. You are sure to leave with something new after entering this passage. For fun and stylish shoes and accessories, as well as delicious ice cream and bagels.Galeria Große Bleichen 21, MJungfernstieg. A long, thin, black and white shopping arcade full of classy clothing, bookshops and a smattering of cafés packed with good-looking people. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.Hamburger Hof G-2, Jungfernstieg 26-30, MJungfern-stieg. Cosmetics, contemporary clothing and shoes can be found in this shopping centre.Hanse-Viertel F-2/3, Große Bleichen / Poststr., MJungfernstieg, www.hanseviertel.de. A quarter of a century old and looking good for its age, this luxurious indoor shopping arcade is packed with shops selling everything from clothes to porcelain to perfume. There’s a good Möv-enpick café in the basement too. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

42 DIRECTORY


43DIRECTORY


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Hamburg’s telephone code is (+49)(0)40

BanksCitibank F-2, Colonnaden 51, MGänsemarkt, tel. 35 47 55.Deutsche Bank G/H-3, Spitalerstraße 16, MHaupt-bahnhof, tel. 309 51 60.Hamburger Sparkasse H-3, Spitalerstr. 4, MHaupt-bahnhof, tel. 35 79 68 71.Reisebank H-2/3, Hauptbahnhof (main station), tel. 32 34 83, www.reisebank.de. The most convenient place to exchange cash or send money orders. Eight offices in Hamburg, including at the airport and the main train stations. QOpen 07:30 - 22:00.

Office suppliesStaples Am Werder 1, tel. 766 13 10. Also at Barm-beker Str. 12. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

ConsulatesHamburg is home to a large number of consulates. For a full list go to www.konsulate.de.

Canada G-3, Ballindamm 35, 5th floor, MRathaus, tel. 460 02 70, www.international.gc.ca.France G-1, Heimhuder Str. 55, MStephansplatz, tel. 413 32 50, www.botschaft-frankreich.de/hamburg.

United Kingdom Fehlandstraße 3, MStephansplatz, tel. 448 03 20, fax 44 80 32 32, www.britischebotschaft.de.United States G-1, Alsterufer 27/28, MStephansplatz, tel. 411 71 100, fax 411 71 222, http://hamburg.usconsulate.gov.

MunicipalityThe Mayor of Hamburg is Ole von Beust.

Rathaus (Town Hall) G-3, Rathausmarkt 1, MRathaus, www.hamburg.de.

Health & HospitalsIn case of an emergency, dial 110 or 112 for free from any phone booth to order a nice Krankenwagen (ambulance). Most doctors and dentists are unavailable in the evenings and on weekends. General practitioners (allgemeine und praktische Medizin) typically refer you to a specialist. The hypochondriac Germans love a nice visit to Mr. Pharmacy, especially when Mrs. State is footing the bill. Even for flu remedies you have to visit a pharmacy (Apotheke). For late night emergencies call the pharmacy hotline at tel. 22 80 22, visit www.apo110.de or look on the door of any pharmacy in town to learn which is open for a 24-hour shift.

Altona Children’s Hospital Bleickenallee 38, tel. 88 90 80.Apotheke im Bahnhof Altona (pharmacy) A-2, Scheel-Plessen-Straße 19, tel. 325 22 60. Inside Altona station.

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Krankenhaus Mariahilf (hospital) Stader Str. 203c, tel. 79 00 60.Rathaus-Apotheke (pharmacy) G-3, Rathausmarkt 19, MRathaus, tel. 3696360.

University Hospital Eppendorf (dentists) Marti-nistr. 52, MKellinghusenstr., tel. 428 03 32 60. The University Hospital in Eppendorf is also a good choice for emergency dental; alternatively call the dentist hotline at tel. 01805 05 05 18.

Have you taken a look at inyourpocket.com lately?p lately?y

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STREET REGISTERAbbestr. A 2ABC-Str. F 2Ackermannstr. I 1Adenauerallee I 2/3Admiralitätsstr. F 3Adolphsbrücke F 3Adolphsplatz G 3Agathenstr. D 1Albertstr. I 3Alexanderstr. I 2Alfred-Wegener-Weg E 3Allendeplatz F 1Alsenplatz C 1Alsenstr. BC 1Alsterarkaden G 3Alsterglacis G 2Alsterterrasse G 2Alstertor G 3Alstertwiete H 2Alsterufer G 1Alte Königstr. A 3Alte Rabenstr. G 1Altenwallbrücke F 3Alter Fischmarkt G 3Alter Steinweg F 3Alter Wall FG 3Alter Wandrahm G 3Altländerstr. H 3Altmannbrücke H 3Altonaer Poststr. B 3Altonaer Str. D 1Altstädter Str. H 3Altstädter Twiete H 3Am Baumwall E 4Am Brunnenhof C 2Am Dalmannkai G 4Am Elbpark DE 3Am Elbpavillon E 3Am Elbtunnel D 4Am Fährkanal D 4Am Felde A 3Am Kaiserkai FG 4Am Mittelkanal I 3Am Nobisteich C 3Am Pflug A 3Am Sandtorkai FG 4Am Sandtorpark G 4Am Sood A 2Amandastr. D 1Amelungstr. F 2/3Amemannstr. A 3Amsinckstr. I 4Amundsenstr. B 3An der Alster HI 1/2An der Kunsthalle GH 2An der Stadthausbrücke F 3An der Verbindungsbahn EF 1Annenstr. D 2/3Antonistr. C 3Armgardstr. I 1Arnisstr. B 1Arnkielstr. C 1Arnoldstr. A 3Augustenburger Str. B 1Augustenpassage D 2Ausrüstungskai AB 4Axel-Springer-Platz F 3B.-Schuldts-Stift E 2Baakenbrücke GHBäckerbreitergang F 2Badestr. G 1Bahrenfelder Str. A 3Balduinstr. D 3Balduintreppe D 3Ballealliancestr. C 1Ballindamm G 2Balthasarweg BC 3Banksstr. I 4Barcastr. I 1Barnerstr. A 2Bartelsstr. D 1Baumeisterstr. H 2Baumwall F 4Beckstr. D 2Beetsweg A 3Behnstr. B 3Bei dem Neuen Krahn F 4Bei den Kirchhöfen EF 2Bei den Mühren G 4Bei den St. Pauli Landungsbrücken D 3/4Bei der Alten Börse G 3Bei der Erholung D 3Bei der Friedenseiche B 2Bei der Johanniskirche C 2Bei der Osterkirche A 2Bei der Pauluskirche B 1Bei der Schilleroper D 2Bei der Stadtwassermühle G 2/3Bei Sankt Annen G 3/4Beim Alten Waisenhaus F 3/4Beim Berliner Tor I 2/3Beim Grünen Jäger D 2Beim Strohhause I 2Beim Trichter D 3Bellealliancestr. C 1Bergstr. G 3Berliner Tor I 2Bernhard-Nocht-Str. CD 3Bernstorffstr. C 2Bertha-Keyser-Weg C 3Besenbinderhof I 3Bessemerweg A 1Betty-Levi-Passage A 3Biernatzkystr. B 3Billrothstr. B 2/3Bleichenbrücke F 3Bleichensteg F 3Bleicherstr. D 2Blücherstr. B 3Böckmannstr. I 2

Bodenstedtstr. B 2Böhmkenstr. E 3Borgesch H 2Börsenbrücke G 3Brandsende GH 2Brandstwiete G 3Brauerallee C 1Brauerknechtgraben E 3/4Braunschweiger Str. A 3Breite Str. C 3Breiter Gang F 2/3Bremer Reihe H 2Brennerstr. I 2Brigittenstr. D 2Brockestr. H 3Brockmannweg E 1Brodschrangen G 3Brooktorkai G 4Brüderstr. F 3Brunnenhofstr. D 2Buchtstr. I 1Budapester Str. D 2Bugdahnstr. A 3Bugenhagenstr. H 3Bülaustr. I 2Bundesstr. EF 1Bundesweg F 1Burchardplatz GH 3Burchardstr. GH 3Burgesch H 2Büschstr. F 2Buttstr. C 4Caffamacherreihe F 2Carl-von-Ossietzky-Platz H 2Carlebachstr. C 2Carsten-Rheder-Str. BC 4Chemnitzstr. B 2City-Hof-Passage H 3Clemens-Schultz-Str. D 3Colonaden F 2Cremon F 3/4Curienstr. G 3Dag-Hammarskjöld-Platz F 1Dammtordamm F 2Dammtorstr. F 2Dammtorwall F 2Dänenweg D 1Danziger Str. I 2Davidstr. D 3Davidstreppe D 3De-Voß-Str. BC 4Deichstr. F 3Deichtorplatz H 3Deichtorstr. H 3Deichtortunnel H 3Depenau G 3Detlef-Bremer-Str. D 3Dienerreihe G 4Ditmar-Koel-Str. E 3/4Dohrnweg C 2Domstr. G 3Dornbusch G 3Dosestr. C 3Dovenfleet G 3Drehbahn F 2Düppelstr. B 1Durchschnitt EF 1Duschweg C 1Düsternstr. F 3Eckernförder Str. B 1Eckhofstr. I 1Edmund-Siemers-Allee F 1Eggerstedtstr. B 2Ehrenbergstr. AB 3Eichholz E 3Eifflerstr. CD 1Eimsbütteler Str. C 1Elbberg A 4Elbchaussee A 3Ellerholzdamm E 4Ellmenreichstr. H 2Elmenhorststr. B 3Enckeplatz E 3Erichstr. D 3Erlenkamp I 1Ernst-Merck-Str. H 2Erste Brunnenstr. F 3Erzberger Str. A 3Eschelsweg B 3Esmarchstr. B 2Esplanade G 2Eulenstr. A 3Fehlandtstr. G 2Feldbrunnenstr. F 1Feldstr. DE 2Ferdinand-Beit-Str. I 2Ferdinandstor GH 2Ferdinandstr. G 2Fettstr. D 1Finkenstr. C 3Fischertwiete GH 3Fischmarkt C 4Fontenay G 1Fontenay-Allee G 1Friedrichstr. D 3Fröbelstr. F 1Fuhlentwiete F 2/3Funkstr. B 3Gademannstr. B 3Gählerstr. C 2Gänsemarkt F 2Gaußstr. A 2Gefionstr. BC 1Georgsplatz H 2Gerberstr. B 2/3Gerhardstr. D 3Gerhart-Hauptmann-Platz G 3Gerhofstr. F 2Gerichtsstr. B 2Gerritstr. C 2Gerstäckerstr. E 3

Gertrudenkirchhof GH 2/3Gertrudenstr. G 2Gilbertstr. CD 2Glacischaussee E 2/3Glashüttenstr. E 2Glockengießerwall GH 2Goetheallee A 2Goethestr. B 3Goldbachstr. B 2Gorch-Fock-Wall F 2Görttwiete F 3Govertsweg C 2Grabbestr. AB 2Grabenstr. E 2Graskeller F 3Graumannsweg I 1Greifswalder Str. H 2Grimm G 3Grindelallee F 1Grindelweg F 1Große Bäckerstr. G 3Große Bergstr. AB 3Große Bleichen F 3Große Burstah F 3Große Elbstr. A-C 4Große Freiheit C 3Große Johannisstr. G 3Große Rainstr. A 2/3Großer Grasbrook G 4Großneumarkt E 3Gurlittstr. H 2Gustav-Mahler-Platz F 2Hachmannplatz H 2Hafentor E 3/4Hafentreppe C 4Hahnenkamp A 2/3Hahnentrapp F 3Hamburger Berg D 3Hamburger Hochstr. C 3Hammerbrookstr. I 3Hans-Albers-Platz D 3Hans-Sachs-Str. B 2Hansaplatz HI 2Harkortstieg AB 2Harkortstr. AB 2Hartwicusstr. I 1Haubachstr. AB 2Heidritterstr. C 3Heiligengeistbrücke F 3Heimhuder Str. G 1Hein-Hoyer-Str. D 2/3Hein-Köllisch-Platz C 3Heinrichstr. C 1Helenenstieg B 2Helenenstr. B 2Helgoländer Allee DE 3Herbertstr. D 3Hermann-Blohm-Str. D 4Hermannstr. G 3Herrengraben F 3Herrenweide C 3Herrlichkeit F 3Heuberg F 3Hexenberg C 3Högerdamm HI 3Hohe Bleichen F 2/3Hohenesch A 2Hoheschulstr. B 3Hohler Weg E 3Holländische Reihe A 3Holländischer Brook G 4Holstenglacis E 2Holstenplatz B 1Holstenstr. BC 1/2Holstenwall E 2/3Holtenaustr. B 1Holzdamm H 2Hongkongstr. GH 4Hopfenmarkt F 3Hopfensack G 3Hopfenstr. D 3Hospitalstr. B 2/3Hühnerposten H 3Hullstr. E 4Hutmacherhof C 3Hütten E 3Ida-Ehre-Platz G 3Ifflandstr. I 1Immermannstr. A 2Isebekstieg B 1Isebekstr. A 1Jakobikirchhof G 3Jakobstr. E 3Jan-Valkenburg-Str. E 3Jessenstr. B 3Johannes-Brahms-Platz E 2Johannisbollwerk E 4Johanniswall H 3Johnsallee F 1Julis-Leber-Str. AB 2Juliusstr. D 1/2Jungfernstieg G 2Jungiusstr. F 2Kaiser-Wilhelm-Str. F 2Kaistr. A 4Kalkhof F 2Kaltenkirchener Str. B 1Kampstr. D 1Karl-Legien-Platz H 3Karl-Theodor-Str. A 3Karl-Wolff-Str. BC 2Karolinenpassage E 2Karolinenstr. E 1/2Karolinenweg E 2Karpfangerstr. E 4Kastanienallee D 3Katharinenbrücke G 3Katharinenfleet FG 3Katharinenstr. FG 3Kattrepel G 3Kehrwieder Brook FG 4

Kehrwiederspitze F 4Kehrwiedersteg F 4Kennedybrücke G 2Kibbelsteg G 4Kieler Str. B 1Kirchenallee H 2/3Kirchenstr. C 3Kirchentwiete A 3Kirchenweg H 2Klausstr. A 3Kleine Bergstr. B 3Kleine Burstah F 3Kleine Fontenay G 1Kleine Freiheit C 3Kleine Johannisstr. G 3Kleine Marienstr. C 3Kleine Rainstr. A 2/3Kleine Reichenstr. G 3Kleine Rosenstr. G 3Kleine Theaterstr. F 2Kleine Wallanlagen E 2Kleiner Pulverteich I 2Kleiner Schäferkamp D 1Klingberg GH 3Kloksweg D 1Kloppstockplatz A 3Kloppstockstr. A 3Kloppstockterrasse A 3/4Klostertor H 3Knorrestr. I 2Köhlbrandtreppe B 4Kohlentwiete A 1Kohlhöfen E 2/3Kolbergstr. I 2Koldingstr. B 1Komödienstieg B 3Komträgergang F 3Königstr. A-C 3Koppel HI 2Koreastr. G 4Kornhausbrücke G 3Krayenkamp E 3Kreuslerstr. G 3Kreuzweg I 2/3Kuhberg E 3Kühnehöfe A 1Kurt-Schumacher-Str. I 3Kurze Mühren H 2/3Kurze Str. E 2Laeiszstr. D 2Lagerstr. DE 1Lammstr. C 2Lamp'lweg A 3Landungsbrücken E 4Lange Mühren H 3Lange Reihe HI 2Lange Str. C 3Laufgraben E 1Lawaetzweg B 3Lengenfelder Str. BC 1Lerchenstr. D 2Lercherstieg D 2Lessers Passage B 3Leunastr. A 1Leverkusenstieg A 1Leverkusenstr. A 1Lilienstr. H 2Lincolnstr. C 3Lindenallee D 1Lindenstr. I 2Lippeltstr. I 4Lippmannstr. CD 1Lobuschstr. A 3Löfflerstr. AB 2Lohmühlenstr. I 1/2Lohseplatz H 4Lombardsbrücke G 2Lomsenstr. B 2/3Lornsenplatz B 2Louise-Schroeder-Str. BC 3Lübeckertordamm I 2Ludwig-Erhard-Str. EF 3Ludwigstr. D 2Lunapark B 1Magellan-Terrassen G 4Marco-Polo-Terrassen G 4Margaretenstr. D 1Marktstr. E 2Marktweg DE 2Markusstr. E 3Marseiller Str. F 2Martin-Luther-King-Platz E 1Martin-Luther-Str. EF 3Mathildenstr. E 2Mattentwiete F 3/4Max-Brauer-Allee A 3-C 2Memellandallee B 1Mennonitenstr. B 1Michaelisbrücke F 3Michaelispassage F 3Michaelisstr. F 3Millerntordamm E 3Millerntorplatz DE 3Minenstr. I 2Missundestr. C 1Mistralstr. C 2Mittelweg G 1Mohlenhofstr. GH 3Mönckebergstr. GH 3Mönkedamm F 3Moorweidenstr. FG 1Mörkenstr. B 3Mottenburger Twiete A 3Mumsenstr. C 2Mundsburger Damm I 1Münzplatz I 3Münzstr. H 3Münzweg I 3Museumstr. A 3Nagelsallee C 1Nagelsweg I 4

Nagelsweg I 3Neanderstr. E 3Nernstweg A 2Neue ABC-Str. F 2Neue Burg G 3Neue Gröninger Str. G 3Neue Große Bergstr. AB 3Neue Rabenstr. G 1Neuer Jungfernstieg G 2Neuer Kamp D 2Neuer Pferdemarkt D 2Neuer Steinweg E 3Neuer Wall FG 3Neuer Wandrahm G 4Neuer Weg E 4Neumayerstr. E 3Neustädter Str. F 2Neustieg E 3Niederbaumbrücke F 4Niedernstr. G 3Nobistor C 3Norderelbstr. E 4Norderhof I 3Norderreihe C 2Nordersand E 4Norderstr. HI 3Nordkanalbrücke HI 3Nordkanalstr. I 3Oberbaumbrücke H 3Oberhafenbrücke H 3/4Oelkersallee C 1Oeverseestr. B 1Olbersweg B 4Ölmühle DE 2Osakaallee G 4Ost-West-Str. GH 3Ottenser Hauptstr. A 3Ottenser Marrrrktplatz A 3Otto-Sill-Brücke F 4Otzenstr. CD 2Palmaille B 3Papenhuder Str. I 1Pasmannstr. EF 3Pastorenstr. F 3Paul-Nevermann-Platz A 3Paul-Roosen-Str. C 2/3Paulinenallee BC 1Paulinenplatz D 2Paulinenstr. D 2Paulsenplatz C 2Paulstr. G 3Pelzerstr. G 3Pepermölenbek C 3Peterstr. E 3Pickhuben G 4Pilatuspool E 2Pinnasberg C 3Platz der Republik A 3Plöner Stieg A 1Plöner Str. A 1Poggenmühle H 3/4Poolstr. E 2Poststr. F 2/3Präsident-Krahn-Str. A 2/3Professor-Brix-Weg B 3Pulverteich I 2Pumpen H 3Querstr. D 3Raboisen G 2/3Rademachergang F 3Rainvilleterrasse A 3/4Rambachstr. E 3/4Rathausmarkt G 3Rathausstr. G 3Rautenbergstr. H 2Reeperbahn CD 3Reesendamm G 3Rehhoffstr. F 3Reichenstr. G 3Reiherstr. E 4Reimarusstr. E 3/4Reimersbrücke G 3Reimerstwiete G 3/4Reinfeldstr. E 1Rendsburger Str. D 3Rentzelstr. E 1Repsoldstr. HI 3Revaler Str. I 2Rödingsmarkt F 3Rolandsbrücke G 3Rosenallee I 3Rosenhofstr. D 1Rostocker Str. I 2Rothenbaumchaussee F 1Rothesoodstr. E 3Sachsenfeld I 4Sachsenkamp I 4Sägemühlenstr. B 4Sandberg B 4Sankt Annenufer G 4Saßstr. C 2Schaarmarkt E 3Schaarsteinweg EF 3Schaartor F 3/4Schäferstr. D 1Schanzenstr. D 1/2Schauenburgerstr. G 3Scheel-Plessen-Str. A 2/3Scheplerstr. C 2Schillerstr. A 3Schlachthofpassage D 2Schleestr. B 3Schleswiger Str. A 1Schlüterstr. F 1Schmarjestr. A 3Schmidt-Rottluff-Weg D 2Schmidtspassage A 3Schmilinskystr. HI 2Schmuckstr. C 3Schnellstr. B 2Schomburgstr. BC 3

Schopenhauerweg A 4Schopenstehl G 3Schottweg I 1Schröderstiftstr. E 1Schröderstiftweg E 1Schulterblatt CD 1Schultzeweg H 3Schumacherstr. B 2/3Schützenstr. A 1Schwanenwik I 1Schweimlerstr. I 1Sechslingspforte I 1Seewartenstr. DE 3Seilerstr. D 3Shanghaiallee H 4Shanghaibrücke GH 4Siegfried-Wedells-Platz G 1/2Sievekingplatz E 2Silbersackstr. D 3Silbersacktwiete C 3Simon-von-Utrecht-Str. CD 3Soester Str. HI 2Sommerhuder Str. C 1Sonninstr. I 3Spadenteich H 2Spaldingstr. I 3Speckstr. F 2Speersort G 3Spielbudenplatz D 3Spitalerstr. H 3Springeltwiete H 3St. Georgskirchhof H 2St. Georgstr. H 2St. Pauli Fischmarkt C 3/4St. Pauli Hafenstr. D 3St.-Anschar-Platz F 2St.-Francisco-Str. G 4St.-Petersburger-Str. E 1Stadtdeich HI 4Stadthausbrücke F 3Stangestr. A 3Steckelhorn G 3/4Steindamm HI 2Steinheimplatz C 2Steinhöft F 4Steinschanze H 4Steinstr. H 3Steintordamm H 3Steintordamm I 2Steintorplatz H 3Steintorwall H 3Steintorweg H 2Steintwiete F 3Steintwietenhof F 3/4Steinwegpassage F 3Stephansplatz F 2Sternschanze DE 1Sternstr. D 1/2Stiftstr. I 2Stockmeyerstr. H 4Stresemannstr. D 2Struenseestr. B 3Stubbenhuk F 4Stuhlmannstr. B 2Susannenstr. D 1Suttnerstr. BC 2Talstr. D 3Taubenstr. D 3Teerhof H 3Teilfeld F 3Tesdorpfstr. G 1Thadenstr. CD 2Theaterstr. G 2Thedestr. B 2/3Theodor-Heuss-Platz F 1Tiergartenstr. EF 1Trampgang F 3Trommelstr. C 3Trostbrücke G 3Turnerstr. E 2Überseeallee GH 4Unzerstr. C 3Valentinskamp F 2Van-der-Smissen-Str. AB 4Venusberg E 3Vereinsstr. D 1Vereinsweg B 2Versmannstr. I 4Virchowstr. B 2/3Von-Melle-Park F 1Vor dem Holstentor E 2Vorsetzen E 4Vorwerkstr. E 2Walther-Kunze-Str. B 2Wandrahmsteg H 3Warburgstr. G 1Warnholzstr. B 2Waterloohain C 1Waterloostr. C 1Weidenallee D 1Welckerstr. F 2Westerstr. H 3Wexstr. F 3Willebrandstr. B 2/3Willy-Brandt-Str. G 3Wincklerstr. E 3Winklers Platz C 2Winterstr. A 3Wismarer Str. I 2Wohlers Allee C 2Wohlwillstr. D 2/3Wölberstieg F 3Wolfgangsweg E 4Zeiseweg B 2Zeißstr. A 2Zeißtwiete A 2Zeughausmarkt E 3Zeughausstr. E 3Zippelhaus G 3/4Zirkusweg D 3Zollstr. G 3

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INDEX

25 Hours 17Abaton Bistro 21Abendmahl 21Absinth Bar 24Abtei 12Afghan Museum 30Alex 22Alsterarkaden 29Alster Cliff 24Alsterperle 24Alster Tour 35Altamira 23Alter Elbtunnel 29Alt-Hamburger Aalspeicher 20Airport Hamburg 5Ashoka 21Atlantic Bar 24Atlantic Hotel Kempinski Hamburg 12Atlantic Restaurant 22Au Quai 22Aurel 24Aussen Alster 17Außenalster 29Bagel Brothers 20BallinStadt 30, 32Bar Eisenberg 24Bar Hamburg 24Bar Morphine 27Bar Rossi 24Bar SáVánh 24Baseler Hof 17Bedford 24Bereuther 25Binnenalster 29Birdland 28Bismarckdenkmal 29Bistrot le Souterrain 20Blankenese 29Blaues Barhaus 25Bok 19Bolero 25BRICKS 25Brook 20broscheks 21Broscheks 21Bucerius Kunst Forum 30Cafébar Juli 19Café Paris 19Cap San Diego 30Casino Esplanade 26, 27Cha Cha 19Chilehaus 30Chilli Club 19Christiansen's 25City Model 30Ciu' Die Bar 25Clipper Elb-Lodge 16Cox 22Crowne Plaza 12Deichgraf 20Deichstraße 29Die Fischküche 20Die Herren Simpel 25Die Rösterei 19Die Welt ist Schön 25Doi 19Dialogue in the Dark 34Dorint Sofitel Am Alten Wall Hamburg 12Drafthouse 27Dual Bar 25East Hotel 13Edelcurry 20Eisenstein 22

Engel 22English Theatre 10Esskultur 21Europäischer Hof 13Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten 13Fernsehturm 29Feuerschiff 29Filmhauskneipe 22Fish Market 34Frank und Frei 25Fürst Bismarck 17Fusion 19Gallo Nero 23Garden Hotels Hamburg 16Gastwerk 16German Customs Museum 30Gloria 19Goldfisch 22Gourmet Station 20Graf Moltke 17Grand Elysée 13Gröninger 21Grosse Freiheit 36 25Hadley's 27Haerlin 22HafenCity 29Hamburg Dungeon 30Hamburger Hafen 29Hamburger Kunsthalle 31Hamburg Light Tour 35Hamburg Marriott 14Hamburgmuseum 31Hans Albers-Eck 25Hanseatin 17Hans Hummel Figures 29Harbour tours 35Hotel Alpha 18Hotel am Rothenbaum 18Hotel Hafen Hamburg 16Hotel Schwanenwik 18Ibis Hamburg Alster 18Il Girasole 23Indochine 25Instant Sleep 18InterContinental 14Jahreszeiten Grill 26Jena Paradies 19Juli 26Kaisers 22Kham 19Knuth 22

Krameramtsstuben 31KZ-Gedenkstätte Neuengamme 31Landhaus Scherrer 20Landungsbrücken 30La Paloma 26Le Canard 20Le Ciel 26Le Royal Meridien 14Levante-Haus 41Literaturhaus Café 19London Pub 28Louis C. Jacob 14Louise 22Madison 16Mandalay 27Mangold lokal 22Marktstube 26Mercure an der Messe 14Mess 22Milk Bar Lounge 26Miniatur Wunderland 31Molly Malone 28Murphy's 28Museum für Kunst und Gewerbe 31Museum für Völkerkunde 32Museumshafen Oevelgönne 32Nil 22Nippon Hotel 16Nouar 27Nullviernull 26Ohlsdorf Cemetery 35Oper 18Osteria Due 23OstWest 23Pane e Tulipani 23Panoptikum 32Park Hyatt Hamburg 15Peterstraße 30Planetarium 33Planten un Blomen 35Poletto 20Pony Bar 26Prototyp 35Radisson SAS 15Rathaus 29Reeperbahn 30Rehbar 26relexa hotel Bellevue 16Renaissance Hamburg 15Residence Hamburg 18

Riff 28Sala Thai 19Saliba 23San Michele 23Scandlines 5Schanzenstern 18Schlachterbörse Wolfgang Süße 23Schönes Leben 23Schweinske 21Seis-Bar 26Sgroi 20Side 15Speicherstadt 29Speicherstadtmuseum 30Spicy's Gewürzmuseum 33Stadtcafé Ottensen 20Stadtpark 35Steigenberger Hotel Hamburg 15Stilwerk 41St. Jacobi 33St. Katharinen 34St. Michaelis 34St. Nikolai Mahnmal 33St. Petri 34Strandperle 26Suitehotel 14Summum Bonum 26Taxim 23The Academy 26Tierpark Hagenbeck 35Top of Town 27Top-Tour Hamburg 35Tourist Information Office 29Tower Bar 27Trostbrücke 30TT³ 40Turmbar 27Turnhalle St. Georg 23U-Boot U-434 33University Fleamarket 35Vegi Planet 23Voltaire 20Wedina 16Weekly markets 35White Lounge 28Yoko Mono 27Zoe II 27Zur Traube 21

JvM

Where can you save money?

� Free travel on public transport (HVV)

in the Greater Hamburg Area

� Discounts at about 110 places of interest and

attractions such as sightseeing tours, harbour

and alster cruises

� Discounts from shopping partners,

for car parking and on souvenirs

� Discount in restaurants (on meals and first

beverage on presentation of the Hamburg

CARD before ordering)

Where can I buy the Hamburg CARD?Hamburg Tourist Information Offices (Central

Station, Harbour, Airport), HVV ticket machines,

service points and buses, many Hamburg hotels

and youth hostels, travel agencies, Hamburg

Tourismus GmbH

How much is it? (Changes reserved)

Single ticket(one adult and up to three children under 15)

Day-Ticket: 8,00 €

Three-Day-Ticket: 18,00 €

Five-Day-Ticket: 33,00

Group ticket (up to five persons of any age)

Day-Ticket: 11,80 €

Three-Day-Ticket: 29,80 €

Five-Day-Ticket: 51,00 €

Hamburg CARD – your discovery ticketClever Hamburg visitors use the attractive Hamburg CARD.


Datum | Date

Einzel | Single

Ein

zel

Information: www.hamburg-tourism.de

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