GoF/Contextual studies/WEL13408108/FRGeography of fashion

Rimmel London

Danielle WellingWEL13408108Word count: 364507 – 03 - 2014London College of FashionMA Fashion Retail – Contextual Studies

Abstract

Purpose – This study was undertaken to discover the influence that Rimmel London’s COO has

on consumers and to gain an understanding of how Rimmel London’s COO was established and

can be protected in the future. The author examined extensive secondary research as well as

primary.

Design/methodology/approach – Data were gathered from 54 female consumers and non-

consumers in the Netherlands, England, France, Italy and China across different ages. Rimmel

London is present in all of these countries. This was conducted via an online questionnaire.

Findings – Overall, the research shows that a brand’s COO does influence consumers and their

behaviour as well as purchasing decisions. The study also shows how various frameworks can

be applied to determine whether a brand’s COO does or doesn’t influence purchasing decisions

and to what extent. For Rimmel London, the consumers were to be found indirectly influenced

by the brand’s COO. To protect the brand’s COO, Rimmel London contracts several UK based

celebrities, which has proven to be effective.

Keywords – Country-of-origin, COO effect, Consumer behaviour, Rimmel London

Paper Type – Research paper

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Introduction

The value of a product’s Country Of Origin (COO) has become of a great importance to

consumers, therefore for brands as well. Consumers nowadays are much more aware of

information and have a growing desire to know more about a brand’s personality. This is due to

globalization and the free access of information. Consumers now have the ability contribute and

share information about all aspects of companies, brands and products. The revelation of

sweatshop conditions discovered in the factories of major consumer brands in the 1990s, and

most recently, the ‘Horsemeat Scandal’ of 2013, has opened new channels of corporate

transparency. The term ‘Made In’ has become a key factor for brands. Recent research in

Australia shows that consumers find the COO more important than the price of a product

(FutureBrand 2014). The effect of COO may vary around the world and some countries or cities

have a stronger COO effect when linked to a specific product. The United Kingdom is ranked

number four when looking at countries with a strong COO image, in various industry sectors

(see appendix 1.1). Jaffe & Nebenzahl (1997) argue that a COO has different dimensions, that

many products have more than one origin. A product could be designed in one country and

packaged in a different country.

Aim

The general aim of this research project is to explore how the established COO perceptions of

Rimmel London can be protected and research how much effect Rimmel London’s COO has on

consumers.

Objectives

1. To discover the influence that Rimmel London’s COO has on consumers.

2. To gain an understanding of Rimmel London’s COO choice and how Rimmel London can

protect this in the future.

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When looking at a brand like Rimmel London, the COO is evident in many ways:

The brand uses the city of London in their name

Their slogan (‘Get the London look’)

Their advertising (always using the British flag or the city of London)

Contracting a London born and bred spokesmodel, Kate Moss (Rimmel London 2014).

Eugene Rimmel and his father founded Rimmel London in 1834 as a perfumery on London’s

famous Bond Street. When Eugene Rimmel died in 1887, the beauty empire stayed in the

family name and was managed by his two sons. They developed a full colour line with a

special focus on eye-enhancing products, especially mascaras. The mascaras became so

popular that the word “Rimmel” still has the meaning of mascara in many languages like:

Italian, Portuguese, Spanish, Greek, Turkish, Romanian, and Persian. After WWII, the

company was acquired by Robert and Rose Caplin, they expanded Rimmel’s colour range,

modernised its packaging and launched the first ever self-selection dispenser (Rimmel

London 2014). After many different owners in the 1970s and 1980s, its present owner Coty

acquired the company in 1996. Coty was founded in 1904 and holds a unique portfolio of

fragrance, colour cosmetics, plus skin and body care brands. Calvin Klein, Roberto Cavalli,

David Beckham, Opi, Chloe and Rimmel London are all examples of brands acquired by Coty

and support the an estimated revenue of $4.6 billion in 2013(Coty 2014).

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Literature review

Quality perceptions of products are highly influenced by their COO. COO has an impact on

industrial, as well as, consumers purchasing decisions. Based on research, the amount of

influence a COO has on a product has not been decided, because most studies only involve a

single country, origin or product (Bilkey & Nes 1982). Therefore it is hard to determine how

much effect a COO has on products in general. Other studies imply that the effect of a product’s

COO is attached to the product-familiarity and product-involved customer of a company. The

less product-familiarity and product-involved customer a company has, the more important and

critical the COO of a company’s products is (Josiassen, Lukas & Whitwell 2008).

Both of the studies above (Bilkey & Nes 1982; Josiassen et al. 2008) conclude that a product’s

COO does have an effect on consumers and their perception on quality. However, it doesn’t state

how much effect it has, and if it has an actual influence on consumer purchasing decisions.

Diamantopoulos et al. (2011) argue that a country image (CI) can have different effect on

outcomes such as consumer purchasing decisions. After establishing a product’s COO, it is

important to know how much this actually influences the brand image (BI) and consumers. The

research (Diamantopoulos et al. 2011) states that there are four possible scenarios. The four

scenarios are to define if a CI has an influence on purchase intentions (PI) (see Figure 1). When

applying this figure to Rimmel London, the brand finds itself in the third scenario. The COI,

which is the United Kingdom and the BI are related in all of the aspects of the brand’s image and

marketing, as mentioned earlier. But the link between the United Kingdom and the intention of

purchase is not evident enough to answer this question with a yes. Thus, Rimmel London finds

itself in the third scenario where the COI is an important driver that indirectly influences the PI.

According to this framework, the COO does influence the consumers of Rimmel London in an

indirect way.

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Figure 1 (Diamantopoulos et al. 2011)

Rimmel London has established their COO as the United Kingdom in various ways. But the image

on that COO is yet to be defined. Roth & Romeo (1992) argue that when defining a country

image, there are various dimensions to be looked at. This has led to a structure linking country

images with several dimensions: innovativeness, design, prestige, and workmanship (see

appendix 1.2). This structure can match and mismatch products to a country’s image.

When matching Rimmel London, using the dimensions that apply to cosmetics in this structure

(appearance, style, colours and variety), the conclusion is that the image of London, therefore

the United Kingdom is design. This is a conclusion easier linked with countries like Italy or

Sweden, because the word design on it’s own, doesn’t give a direction of what kind of design, the

dimension means.

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To keep the COO perception of Rimmel London, the company also contracts United Kingdom-

based models and singers as the face of their brand. Kate Moss is the main face of the brand, but

Coty’s Inc. also signed up two new brand faces: singer Sophie Ellis-Bextor and model Lily Cole

for the company’s Rimmel London brand. Steve Mormoris, Coty’s senior vice president of global

marketing says “We believe our consumers will really identify with both new signings and this,

combined with the iconic qualities of Kate Moss, who has more than proven herself as the face of

Rimmel, will see the brand create even more standout this [fall] with their new campaigns.”

(WWD 2008).

Reierson (1996) researched the attitude of United States consumers towards foreign products,

including the UK and found that stereotyping was present among the students that were asked.

The females in his questionnaire evaluated foreign products higher than males, while Dornoff et

al. (1974) stated that there were no significant differences between male and female perception

of foreign products. Looking at Rimmel London’s growth in the US, where the brand’s sales are

reaching the sales in the U.K. (WWD 2008). Industry sources estimate Rimmel is worth an

estimated $100 million in the United States; this can conclude that Reierson (1996) was correct,

stating that American females evaluate foreign products in a positive way.

Looking at all of the research previously mentioned (Bilkey & Nes 1982; Josiassen et al. 2008;

Diamantopoulos et al. 2011; Roth & Romeo 1992; Reierson 2006; Dornoff et al. 1974) there are

several conclusions that can be drawn:

COO has an effect on consumers

COO is a relevant driver that indirectly influences the PI of Rimmel London’s consumers

CI of Rimmel London’s COO is design, in the broadest sense of the word (when linked to

the dimensions appearance, style, colours and variety)

Rimmel London keeps it’s COO image alive by contracting various UK based celebrities

American females evaluate foreign products, such as Rimmel London, in a positive way

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Local Forces

To conduct a macro and micro environmental audit of Rimmel London, there are a number of

frameworks applicable. A ‘PESTEL analysis, as it stands, mainly provides a general idea about

the macro environmental conditions and situations for the company.’ (Yükse 2012). The analysis

categorises environmental influences into six main types: political, economic, social,

technological, environmental and legal (Johnson et al 2011). To view the local forces for Rimmel

London it is relevant to do a PESTEL analysis based on the United Kingdom only, because this is

the brand’s COO.

Political –For Rimmel London, the Cosmetics Regulation is the political force. All

perfumery, toiletry and cosmetic products placed on the market in the UK and in the EU

are regulated by European legislation, the Cosmetics Regulation. The main reason of

these laws is to protect the safety of consumers. The manufacturer or supplier of the

product is responsible for ensuring it is safe and a duly qualified. Safety assessors must

assess each cosmetic product for safety before it is made available to the public

(Confidence in cosmetics 2014).

Economic – Economic factors are of concern to Rimmel London, because they are likely

to influence costs, demand, profits and prices. One of the most influential factors on the

economy is high unemployment level in the United Kingdom, which decreases the

effective demand for many products (BBC 2014). On the other hand, the cosmetics

industry makes employment possible for over 1.7 million people and is therefore the

world's largest exporter of cosmetic products, thereby contributing to economic growth

in Europe (Cosmetics Europe 2014).

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Social – The aging population and an increase in female workers (more than 14 million

in the UK) mean that UK retailers are focusing on services and added-value products

(BBC 2014). This means consumers become more demanding and have higher

expectations of a brand and their service, Rimmel London could consider opening a

London based RImmel London store. This will give people a service point and would

positively increase their brand image. Another social influence is the impact that

cosmetics have on people’s lives. Over 450 million Europeans use cosmetics on a daily

basis, this not only improves their personal hygiene but contributes to the public health

as well. For most people, cosmetics boost their self-esteem and therefore it is good for

the general well being (Cosmetics Europe 2014).

Technological – Innovative technologies will benefit both company and consumer. The

latest technology allows new trends in make-up, such as the idea of multi-tasking

makeup. This is nothing new, but because of innovation, brands are now looking at

making eye shadow that's an anti-aging treatment or a foundation with new hydration

delivery systems (Park 2014).

Environmental – Environmental expectations of consumers are rising, demanding

companies to improve on manufacturing, packaging and their environmental footprint

(Cosmetics Europe 2014). There are many brands claiming to be ‘green’, but this isn’t

always the case. Nowadays, there are many companies that check facts and compare

products in overall hazard, cancer effects, development, allergies & toxics and animal

testing. Rimmel London comes out as a moderately ‘green’ brand, with no overall hazard,

but there are high concerns about the frequent use of Propylparaben in over 59 products

(EWG’s Skin deep 2014).

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Legal – Aside from the European legislation, the Cosmetics Regulation, there are other

important laws influencing the cosmetics industry. Animal testing has been banned from

Europe in 2009, but companies were still allowed to outsource the testing of products on

animals, to other countries. This all changed in March 2013, cosmetics tested on animals

can no longer be sold in Europe, even if the testing was done somewhere else (PETA

n.d.). Coty stopped testing cosmetic products on animals in 1991. This was before the

official European law banned such testing. “Coty has been actively involved for many

years in the research and development of alternatives to animal testing.” (Rimmel

London 2014).

Global forces

Rimmel London’s products are available in pharmacies and supermarkets in the UK, Italy, Japan,

United States, France, Poland, Portugal, Argentina, South Korea, Estonia, Indonesia, Germany,

Ireland, China, Australia, Norway, Slovakia, Latvia, Austria, Lithuania, Ukraine, Spain, Belgium,

Denmark, Russia, Belarus, Canada, Malta, Netherlands, Czech Republic and South Africa;

therefore they operate in an international market (Rimmel London 2014).

Hemapatil & Bbakkappa (2012) argue that because of globalization, young consumers want to

buy cosmetics of global brands. They know it will fulfil the needs of the young consumers,

through offering quality products. Coty has lost an overall two per cent share in the UK’s colour

cosmetics market when comparing the years 2010, 2011 and 2012 (see appendix 1.3). This

doesn’t immediately mean that it is because of Rimmel London, because Coty is the house of

many brands. There is a significant growth in the UK’s colour cosmetic market forecasted, for the

year 2014 with growth in value (GBP) and the spend per capita (population) (Mintel 2014).

When comparing this to some of the other countries that Rimmel London is active in (U.S., China,

Germany and South Africa) it seems that Coty has a bigger share in colour cosmetics in some of

these markets. With a 17% market share in 2011 in Germany and a 10% market share in 2012 in

the U.S. (see appendix 1.4) (Mintel 2014).

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For Rimmel London this market growth and a desire for global quality products is a positive sign

for the future. Current economy and low unemployment levels still make it hard for the market

to grow. The recovering global economy holds back spend per capita in colour cosmetics, in

more than 30 per cent of the countries that Rimmel operates in: France, Germany, Italy, Austria,

Denmark, Portugal, Spain, Belgium and the Netherlands (see appendix 1.5). The only European

country with a growing spend per capita on colour cosmetics forecast is the United Kingdom

(Mintel 2014).

Methodology

The initial phase of this research required a good investigation into the history of COO and its

effect on consumers and the industry environment. In the beginning, the research was intended

to evaluate the COO of Rimmel London in its totality and how brands can protect and establish a

COO. The degree of such research proved to be unworkable because of to the lack of research

relating to establishing and protecting a brand’s COO. To ensure the research was relevant, a

choice had to be made which objectives where possible to fulfil. This concluded in aiming for the

following objectives, first to discover the influence that Rimmel London’s COO has on

consumers. Second, to gain an understanding of Rimmel London’s COO choice and how Rimmel

London can protect this in the future.

Once the area of the research was decided, the research for important secondary information

and data could start. Due to the overload on research if COO does or does not effect consumer

behaviour, it was important to investigate research that focused how much influence a product’s

COO actually has. Initially the research was focused on secondary research coming from various

academic papers, but as the research went on, there proved to be other sources, that could

provide news and information, that benefited the research.

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The obtaining of the essential secondary researches for this research primarily largely from

online academic sources, however relevant literature and papers also proved crucial in the

collection of secondary information.

Together with the collection of secondary data for this research, the primary data collection also

started. An anonymous online questionnaire would be the most relevant primary research

method to achieve suitable research results. Therefore, contact was made with women,

consumers and non-consumers of Rimmel London, from countries that the brand is present, if

they would be prepared to answer questions for the research. To all of the questions, multiple

answers were possible, with exception to describing the city of London with adjectives. This

questionnaire was conducted via Survey Monkey, a web survey development tool based on a

cloud. The reason for this method is because of multiple reasons:

- The questions had to be answered by women from different countries; so online would be the

most efficient way to reach them.

- The questions were related to a general perception of the brand and it’s COO, so no specific

answers were required.

In total the questionnaire was answered by 54 women between the age of 18 and 36, from

countries like the Netherlands, England, France and China (Rimmel London is present in all of

these countries).

Through the information collected from the questionnaire, the research was supported and

enriched by in sights of a large group of consumers and non-consumers from different

perspectives.

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Findings

The research findings is structured in two sections. First, the overview survey results collected

from the respondents. Second, the interpretation of the survey results relating to the secondary

research.

Overview of survey results

The survey results determined that 88.5 per cent of the respondents was familiar with the

Rimmel London brand. Familiarity is preferable, because it allows the respondents to evaluate

and process associations with the brand beter(Hayes et al. 2006). A total of 39.6 per cent were

consumers of Rimmel London, which left 60.4 per cent of the respondents as non-consumers.

When asked what adjectives the respondents would use to describe the City of London with, the

most frequent answers were:

Modern

Beautiful

Expensive

Vibrant

When respondents were asked what words they associate with the brand Rimmel London, they

could choose multiple answers out of five words (Kate Moss, United Kingdom, Mascara, Make-

up, London). With a percentage of 62.2, a high amount of respondents associate Rimmel London

with Kate Moss, which implies that the brand’s marketing campaigns are extremely effective.

However, respondents associated the brand’s COO (the United Kingdom) the least with Rimmel

London (see Figure 2).

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Which lead to the next question in the survey, “What if Rimmel London was attached to another

fashion city, for example Rimmel Paris or Rimmel New York. Would this effect your purchasing

decision?” Only 3.7 per cent of the respondents answered this question with, “Yes it would effect

me, I would not buy product anymore.”

This implies that the remaining 96.3 per cent of the respondents would still buy the brand’s

products, even if the brand were attached to another fashion city (see Figure 3).

Figure 2 (SurveyMonkey 2014)Word association, when thinking of Rimmel London.

Figure 3 (Surveymonkey 2014)Influence of a different COO on PI

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Survey interpretations

The primary research shows that the brand’s COO does not influence 75.93 per cent of the

respondents, which were Rimmel London’s consumers and non-consumers. The respondents

were asked if their purchasing decisions would be effected if the brand were attached to another

fashion city, for example Rimmel Paris or Rimmel New York. However, 62.26 per cent of the

respondents associated Kate Moss with the brand, when given the following options: Kate Moss,

United Kingdom, Mascara, Make-up and London.

These results indicate that the framework previously mentioned, by Diamantopoulos et al. has

worked for Rimmel London. It stated that the COO does influence the consumers of Rimmel

London in an indirect way.

If consumers associate the brand with Kate Moss, the face of Rimmel London but state they are

not influenced by it’s COO, it proved that the framework was right.

When looking at CI, secondary research stated (Roth & Romeo 1991) that a CI can be linked with

different dimensions (see appendix 1.2), for Rimmel London this implied that the CI of the

United Kingdom is Design. When examining the primary research, none of the respondents

described the city of London with design. The adjectives that were used to describe the city of

London were modern, beautiful, expensive and vibrant.

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Conclusion

This study is a research to explore how the established COO perceptions of Rimmel London can

be protected and examine how much effect Rimmel London’s COO has on consumers. Previous

literature has stated that a brand’s COO does have an influence on purchasing decisions and

therefore it was examined how much influence it actually has. The other objective in this

research was to fully understand why the brand chose the United Kingdom as their COO and

how they can protect this in the future. From the literature review, several conclusions were

drawn:

COO has an effect on consumers

COO is a relevant driver that indirectly influences the PI of Rimmel London’s consumers

(this result was later enforced by the primary research)

CI of the United Kingdom is Design

(this result was proven to be wrong, by the primary research)

The secondary research also stated that Rimmel London is trying to keep their COO image alive,

by contracting various UK based celebrities. The primary research showed that over 60 per cent

of the respondents associated Kate Moss with the brand, before associating it with Make-up or

Mascara. This concludes that Rimmel London’s strategy is successful when creating a COO image

via marketing. This however doesn’t give a guarantee for the future, but shows Rimmel London

is making the right decisions when it comes to COO image.

When researching the secondary literature, there were found to be several limitations. Most of

the COO research is based on whether COO does or doesn’t have an influence on consumers.

When going in to it further, there is much literature to be found on how it influences consumers

and their purchasing decisions. The limitations were found when looking for literature that

involves establishing a brand’s COO and protecting it.

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Another limitation is that, when conducting the primary research, many consumers from other

countries like the United States (a big market for Rimmel London) did not reply to the

questionnaire and therefore the results are based on a European consumer perspective. . As

research has shown that COO has a positive effect on consumers, when the COO is a well-

established country. Further research should be done on how a brand can establish a COO, for

historical or sales-driven motivations.

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AppendixAppendix 1.1

COO image ranking across industry sectors (FutureBrand 2014)

Appendix 1.2

Country image dimension structure (Roth & Romeo 1992)

Innovativeness

Use of technology and engineering

Design Appearance Style Colours Variety

Prestige Exclusivity Status Brand name reputation

Craftsmanship Reliability Durability Craftsmanship Manufacturing quality

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Appendix 1.3

Market share UK colour cosmetics (Mintel 2014)

Appendix 1.4

Market share Germany colour cosmetics (Mintel 2014)

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Market hare United States colour cosmetics (Mintel 2014)

Appendix 1.5

Western European spend per capita on colour cosmetics (Mintel 2014)

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Appendix 1.6

Questionnaire questions (Surveymonkey 2014)

1. How old are you? - 18-25- 26-30- 31-38- 39-50- 51-60

2. What is your nationality?- Open answer

3. What is your occupation?- Student- Professional- Entrepreneur- House maker

4. Do you know the brand, Rimmel London?- Yes- No

5. Are you a consumer of Rimmel London?- Yes- No

6. What adjectives would you use to describe the city of London?- Open answer

7. When thinking of Rimmel London, which word comes to mind (Mutiple answers possible)

- Kate Moss- United Kingdom- Mascara- Make-up- London

8. What if Rimmel London was attached to another fashion city, for example Rimmel Paris or Rimmel New York? Would this effect you purchasing decision?

- Yes it would effect me, I would not buy their product anymore- Yes it would effect me, but I would still buy their products- No it wouldn’t effect me, I would still buy their products

Appendix 1.7

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Questionnaire Overall results (Surveymonkey 2014)

How old are you?

- 18-25 / 87.04%- 26-30 / 11.11%- 31-38 / 1.85%- 39-50- 51-60

What is your nationality?

- Open answer / Dutch, Chinese, French, Italian, English, Taiwanese, Latvian, Brazilian

What is your occupation?

- Student / 94.44%- Professional / 5.56%- Entrepreneur- House maker

Do you know the brand, Rimmel London?

- Yes / 88.46%- No / 11.54%

Are you a consumer of Rimmel London?

- Yes / 39.62%- No / 60.38%

What adjectives would you use to describe the city of London?

- Open answer / Modern, Vibrant, Cosmopolitan, Beautiful, Glamour, Fashion, Expensive, Historic

When thinking of Rimmel London, which word comes to mind (Mutiple answers possible)?

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- Kate Moss / 62.26%- United Kingdom / 28.30%- Mascara / 43.40%- Make-up / 43.40%- London / 45.28%

What if Rimmel London was attached to another fashion city, for example Rimmel Paris or Rimmel New York? Would this effect you purchasing decision?

- Yes it would effect me, I would not buy their product anymore / 3.7%- Yes it would effect me, but I would still buy their products / 20.37%- No it wouldn’t effect me, I would still buy their products / 75.93%

Appendix 1.8

Questionnaire results (Surveymonkey 2014)

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