Textile - écoconso · WWF Eco-design guide for textiles and clothing WWF Eco-design guide for textiles and clothing. For a Green & Ethical Fashion ... Microsoft PowerPoint - ECOCERT.ppt

nov.-12 1

TextileCertifications

For a Green & Ethical Fashion

Organic agriculture• EC/NOP/JAS• National and private labels

Cosmetics• Ecocert “Natural and organic

cosmetics”• COSMOS

Textiles• GOTS• Organic Exchange• Ecocert “Ecological & Recycled

Textiles Standard” (ERTS)Ecological products

• Ecocert “Natural cleaning products”• Ecocert “Natural and organic home

perfumes”

Fair trade• Ecocert “EFT”

(Ecocert Fair Trade)• Private labels

Environment• Ecocert “Ecological green spaces”

(Eve®)• Companies management

systems: ISO 14001, PEFC, EMAS...

Food quality and safety• ISO 9001, ISO 22000, OHSAS

18000• GLOBALG.A.P• IFS/BRC• Third party control

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CONTROL AND CERTIFICATION

For a Greeen & Ethical Fashion1. ECOCERT – Activitysince 1991

1 Head Office: Ecocert SA 23 sister companiesAmong them 3 in France

Local presence in 20 countries Inspections in 80 countries

540 employees worldwide in 2012

272 employees in FranceAmong them 110 inspectors

For a Green & Ethical Fashion1. ECOCERT - Group Organisation

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INTERNATIONAL NETWORK

A regional approach and a local service in order to guarantee controls and traceability in all countries.

For a Green & Ethical Fashion2. A global approach

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Fiber world production

57%57%

43%43%

35%35%

65%65%

Source :Organic Exchange


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Source: Purvis consulting SCS


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End of life

Impacts on:EnvironmentSocialEconomy

For a green and ethical Fashion3. Standards on the Market

Bluesign

GRS

For a green & ethical Fashion3. Standards on the Market

Organic TextilesOrganic Textiles

Ecological & recycled TextilesEcological & recycled Textiles

9

Ecocert certifications :

Textiles made of organic cotton(traceability & integrity of cotton fiber)

Textiles made of organic cotton(traceability & integrity of cotton fiber)

Organic and Fair Trade Textiles Organic and Fair Trade Textiles

4. CERTIFICATION PROCESS4. CERTIFICATION PROCESS

Lab Analysis

Asking for a quotationapplication form / eligibility

contract

Materials and auxiliaries documentairy validation +

packaging

On-site inspections

Study of audit file, non conformities and corrective actions follow-up.

Issuing of Certificate

Complementary or unannouced

inspections

For a Green & Ethical fashion:4. Organic Textiles - GOTS

11

Global Organic Textile Standard

GOTS V3.0

Global Organic Textile Standard

GOTS V3.0

Created by 4 associations involved into nature protection and organic farming:OTA, IVN, JOCA, SOIL

2011: GOTS V3.0

Organic FarmingCertification

under regulation orrecognized standard

(ex:EC, NOP)

Global Organic Textile Standard / Organic Exchange

SUPPLY CHAIN MANAGEMENT

For a Green & Ethical fashion:4. Organic Textiles - GOTS

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For a Green & Ethical Fashion:4. GOTS V3.0

« Organic »

95% min of Organic Fibers5% max non-organic fibres including artificial or syntheticNo mixing of a same organic and not organic fiber

« made with X% organic materials »

70% min of Organic Fibers 30% max natural fibers not organic of which 10% max in artificial or synthetic fibers (25% sportswear, socks)No mixing of a same organic and not organic fiber

For a Green & Ethical Fashion:4. GOTS V3.0: Fiber content

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For a Green & Ethical Fashion:5. GOTS V3.0 : Fiber content

For a Green & Ethical Fashion:4. GOTS V3.0: Accessories/trimmings

Fiber accessories or additionnal material:

fibers as presented before and accepted for the main composition

Non fiber accessories:

All biotic or mineral materials. - no PVC- no Chrome- no Nickel- no material coming threaned animals, wood…

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Prohibited substances as defined in for chemical inputs(dyestuffs, auxiliaries…)

Respect of residues limits for hazardous substances

Prohibited substances as defined in for chemical inputs(dyestuffs, auxiliaries…)

Respect of residues limits for hazardous substances

For a Green & Ethical Fashion:4. GOTS V3.0: Production

Traceability and integrity of the fibers and finished productsIdentificationSeparation principle, non contamination by unauthorized substancesAll mechanical and thermal process are authorizedFor wet processing: - approval of chemical inputs- specific criteria for particular treatment and finishing

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- Scope certificate- Transaction certificate- Bill of loading, Delivery note- Invoices- Quantities & amounts of purchases and sales

- Positive list of chemical inputs : Dyestuffs, auxiliaries to be approved before using in production

to be done by accredited certification body on this scope

For green and ethical Fashion:4. GOTS V3.0: Chemical inputs approval

List of forbidden substancesSubstances and preparation banned due to R-phrasesEco-toxicity criteriaBiodegradability criteriaSpecific criteria for:- dyestuffs- printing agents and dyes- finishing treatmentNatural Dyes: - not compulsory- should be from non threatened species

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• MSDS is required and is the base of the assessment.• Checking form needs to be filled by the applicant• Lab tests could be required to confirm data

Issuance of Positive list avalaible for each GOTS operators

Possible complementary Certification on Natural dyeing with ERTS

Possible complementary Certification on Natural dyeing with ERTS

For green & ethical Fashion:5. GOTS V3.0: Risk assessment

- Lab tests done by the operator to probe the compliance accordingly to its risk assessment

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Risk assessment:

- Quality parameters :colour fastness, shrinkage….- residues limits for banned substances (ex: heavy metal, AOX, PCB, carcinogenic substances…)- assessment to be done by the operator according to its operations

- Lab tests done by sampling during the certification process

For a Green & Ethical Fashion:4. GOTS V3.0: Environmental & social responsibility

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Environmental responsaibility:

- Environmental policy with program improvement- wastewater treatment unit for wet processing operation (COD, pH, T°…)- control & monitoring of waste and discharges- training of the employees- data on water & energy for textile outpout.- procedure to follow in case of incidents

Social responsability:- operators must have a policy for social criteria- Based on ILO conventions and other human rights conventions- Nomination of person for social accountability- allow worker to nominate a representative for social accountability- Health & safety

ECOLOGICAL & RECYCLED TEXTILES STANDARD

ERTS V1.1Main criteria

ECOLOGICAL & RECYCLED TEXTILES ECOLOGICAL & RECYCLED TEXTILES STANDARD STANDARD

ERTS V1.1ERTS V1.1Main criteriaMain criteria

For a Green & Ethical Fashion:5. Ecological & Recycled Textiles Standard - ERTS

E.R.T.S - Field of CriteriaE.R.T.S - Field of Criteria

Eco-designProduction of fibers

CompositionTraceability -IntegrityProduction processEnvironmentQuality – SecuritySocial / H&S

CompositionTraceability -IntegrityProduction processEnvironmentQuality – SecuritySocial / H&S

CompositionFiber Traceability

CompositionFiber Traceability

Organic Fibers

Organic Fibers

ECO or Recycled fibers

ECO or Recycled fibers

Organic ExchangeOrganic

ExchangeCCS Textile Exchange

CCS Textile Exchange


GRSTextile

Exchange

GRSTextile

Exchange

70% mini of:- natural materials- materials coming from renewable or recycled materials

Option 2: Natural dyeing

ECO-friendly production processes

respecting social criteria

End-consumer’s

health & safety

Performances:Quality criteria

Maintainingtraceability

Option 1:Environ-mental

labelling (CO2)


Environmental policy: The environmental policy should include an ECO-Design

approach for the development of new products (only for operators dealing with designing)Eco-Design : - Criteria of the standard should be included very earlier in thedesigning process- The choices made during the design phase must take into account environmental and social impacts, including: . Choice of raw materials and their ability to be renewed or use of recycled materials. Production processes. Conditions of production and social aspects. Choice regarding the transport. Choice regarding the packaging. Product use and its end of life The Life Cycle Analysis allow to support the choices done during this approach.

Eco-DesignEco-Design


70% minimum of the material composition70% minimum of the material composition

Fiber ProductionFiber Production

For a Green & Ethical Fashion:5. Ecological & Recycled Textiles Standard -ERTS

Textile productionTextile production

Production:- Criteria for selection of dyes and other auxiliaries following risk phrases, Eco-toxicity, biodegradability, prohibited substances.- Mechanical & thermal processes authorized- Wet processing must use approved auxiliaries and dyes stuffs- Cleaning products for tools and workshops- Criteria for managing wastewater , discharges, packaging waste

Quality / Safety for finished product:- Limits on residual forbidden substances on finished goods- Criteria for color fastness and shrinkage

For a Green & Ethical Fashion:5. Ecological & Recycled Textiles Standard -ERTS

For a green and ethical Fashion

nov.-12 27

WWF Eco-design guide for textiles and clothingWWF Eco-design guide for textiles and clothing

For a Green & Ethical FashionFor a Green & Ethical Fashion

A garrantee for a sustainable worldA garrantee for a sustainable world

Thank YOU

Vincent DURETECOCERT Greenlife – [email protected]

Documents

Textile - écoconso · WWF Eco-design guide for textiles and clothing WWF Eco-design guide for textiles and clothing. For a Green & Ethical Fashion ... Microsoft PowerPoint - ECOCERT.ppt