susan online portfolio

8/14/2019 susan online portfolio

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ducationDominican University May 2008

B.A. in Fashion DesignGPA 3.9/4.02008 Dominican University HonoreePhi Theta Kappa Scholarship 2006-2008Endowed Scholarship 2007-2008Honor Roll/Deans List 2006-2008

Wright College September 2004-May 2006GPA 4.0/4.0Honor Roll/Deans List 2004-2006Phi Theta Kappa Academic Fraternity

Relevant CoursesAdvanced Apparel Design Flat Pattern and Drapingntroduction to Design Applications Computer Aided DesignAdvanced Computer Aided Design Graphic DesignSkills

Adobe Suite PAD SystemKnitting Machine 10 KeyMicrosoft Office Typing Speed 80 WPManguage Skills

Conversational in speaking Cantonesenternship

Research Study River Forest, ILStudent Research Assistant January 2008 to May 2008

-Worked as part of a student/teacher research team to develop a study on how line influences deby digitally manipulating lines as part of a dress design-Designed the line and overlay print used for the manipulations as well as the pattern for the garm

Heirloom Textiles Oak Park, ILntern May 2007 to August 2007

-Learned every aspect of how a sole proprietor runs a textile business from sourcing to selling-Created pieces for the Summer/Spring collection-Developed a pattern for a new piece as part of the Heirloom Textiles collection

Work ExperienceNordstrom Chicago, ILales Associate May 2008 to October 2008

-Providing customers with the highest level of customer service by attending to their needs-Helping customers style their outfits with shoes and other accessories-Meeting sales and service goals through repeat business

H&M Chicago, IL

Sales Associate August 2005 to April 2006-Answered customer inquiries and helped customers locate items-Managed and balanced a cash drawer and register-Worked as part of a team to develop a strategy to efficiently organize the store after closing

5/3 Bank Chicago, ILCustomer Service Representative September 2007 to April 2008

-Efficiently helping customers with transactions in the lobby and at the drive-up-Providing a high level of customer service by answering questions, addressing concerns, andperforming account maintenance


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how pre-18th century costume inspires contemporary dress

Baroque & Rococo (1600-1630)

Christian Lacroixs couture gown is inspired by the luxe clothing of the Baroque& Rococo periodparticularly the virago sleeves. They both have thecharacteristic large bubbled sleeve that is cinched at the bottom with rufflingat the cuff. Both are made out of luxurious velvet that is embroidered andworn with big silk gowns. The modern variation of the Virago sleeves are notstuffed with bombast but instead have a loftier feel to them.

virago sleeves

recognizing the influence

Designers are inspired by the dramatic and intricate styling of pre-18th centurycostume from the oversized embroidered sleeves to the rows of tiny buttons

on a jacket.

Left: Thesleeves othiscouturegown byChristianLacroix1

take a

cue fromthe stylesworn bywomenduringtheBaroqueandRococoperiod(Right).


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waistcoat

Seventeenth CenturyAmerica(1600-1700)

This Alexander McQueen

jacket pays homage to the 17th

Century waistcoat.. Thedouble row of buttons with therows of lines going across thechest is very characteristic ofmenswear waistcoats duringthat period. The McQueen

jacket also features the sameupturned cuffs. The McQueen

jacket is also styled with a tiearound neck like a cravattheprecursor to the tie.

Elizabethan

England(1558-1603)

slap soleshoes

Both thecontemporaryUnited Nude shoeand the slap sole

shoe are in thebootie style with the top of the shoe hitting the ankle. Both shoes have leatheruppers but the heel of the modern shoe is made out of steel. But thecontemporary shoe differs from the original because it lacks a heel and just hasthe base on the bottoma crucial element that creates the slap.

1 http://www.style.com/fashionshows/collections/F2006CTR/complete/thumb/CLACROIX?trend=&page=2 http://www.style.com/peopleparties/modelsearch/thumb/person36073 http://www.zappos.com/n/p/dp/19284456/c/88872.html

Left: Alexander McQueens2 take onan American waistcoat (Right).

Left: United Nudes3 version of the slap sole shoe (Right).


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What is old is new again. Inspiration from post-18th Century style is prevalentfrom season to season and it seems like a new decade of the 20th century isbrought back and re-styled every season.

1980s

The 1980s was an era of power dressing for women. Women wanted to lookprofessional and business-like. These looks borrowed menswear styles andmenswear tailoring such as the use of shoulder pads in jackets. The updatedversion of the power suit is much more feminine. Whether in fabrication or instyling, power suits are still inbut in a less severe way. The moderninterpretation by Armani Priv is also very menswear inspired but takes asleeker, less bulky approach on the 1980s power suit.

power suit

how post-18th century costume inspires contemporary dress


Left: The broad shoulders and menswear details of the modern Armani Priv1

suit creates the same look of power as the 1980s version (Right).


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empire waist

Empire Period (1820-1840)

During the Empire Period, women were free of the restrictions of a full corset(most opting to wear a shorter bust corset or none at all). Dresses made ofsheer, floaty fabrics with empire waistlines came into stylea sharp contrast tothe tight corsets and heavy skirts of periods past. This softer shape in lighterfabrics is still used today as seen in the simple yet elegant silhouette Peter Somdress.

print dress

1930s

During the Depression money for clothing wasscarce and the 1930s silhouette was simpleand slim. They were made more stylish withcheaper embellishments such as the use ofprint. The broader shoulder, belted waist, and

slim skirt of this Ralph Lauren print dressembodies that classic 1930s styling down to thesimple accessories.

1 http://www.style.com/fashionshows/collections/F2005CTR/complete/thumb/APRIVE2 http://www.style.com/fashionshows/collections/S2007RTW/complete/thumb/PSOM?trend=&page=33 http://www.style.com/fashionshows/collections/S2007RTW/complete/thumb/RLAUREN

Left: PeterSoms2

moderntake on theempire waisteveninggown. Thiselegant style

was worn byEmpressJosephineduring theEmpirePeriod(Right).

Left: Ralph Laurens3 simple belted print dress pairedwith classic heels and a hat reflect the 1930s sensibilityof dressing (Right).


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The wrap dress is an excellent example of how traditional Japanese garmentslike the kimono have influenced design. One side of the wrap dress drapesacross the body and is tied closed in the fashion as a kimono. This updatedversion of a kimono tends to be shorter and made in more flowy fabrics unlikethe skirt of a traditional kimono which forces a woman to take small steps.

kimonos

Designers are inspired by the clean lines and simple wrap style of traditionalJapanese kimonos and obis.

of Japanese Culture on Contemporary Dress


Left: atraditionalkimonoRight: Kara

Janxs1

interpretationof a kimonowrap dress


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An obi is a belt that is tied around the waist outside of a kimono. More thanone obi belt is usually worn to either accent the bodys shape or to secure thekimono. A traditional Japanese obi is made out of silk. The new take on theobi belt is more decorative than functional. They are usually only worn one at

a time to create a cinched in waist. Modern obi belts are made out of avariety of materials ranging from stretchy jersey to leather.

obi

A red leather obi belt by CynthiaRowley.3

A traditional way of wearing obi belts are bylayering.2

1 http://www.karajanx.com/store/home.php2 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:ViewsAndCostumesOfJapan.jpg3 http://www.nordstrom.com


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the environmental cost of cheap cashmere production

the real price of low cost luxury

identifying the environmental

The increase in cashmere production has

lowered the cost of this luxury fiber but hashad a negative impact on the environment.The rising number of cashmere goats from2.4 million in 1949 to 25.8 million in 2004 haslead to the desertification of China1 throughovergrazing. This increased area of desertmeans more sand storms in China. Inaddition, this increased production ofcashmere means more water and oil are

used to process the fibers into a garment.These conditions combined with Chinas useof coal as their primary energy resource andtheir low environmental standards hascreated some major environmentalproblems.

impact of cashmere

Demand for cheap cashmere hasled to larger herds of cashmeregoats.

Goats consume over10% of their bodyweight a day.2 Muchof the grazing landsfor cashmere goatshas been destroyedand turned intodesert byovergrazing.


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the globalimpact

These sand storms that originate in China are mixed with sulfur dioxide from thecoal and other pollutants in the air that make it toxic. These storms are notisolated in China but can travel over oceans. A 1998 sand storm thatoriginated in China and Mongolia was so severe, an air pollution warning wasissued for several parts of the United States. According to a study done byNASA and Harvard, Asian dust accounts for 40% of the worst dust days in theWestern part of the United States in 2001. But cashmere producers are not theonly ones to blame Americans bought 10.5 million cashmere sweaters fromChina in 2006.1

One of theworst sandstorms thathit theChinesecapital ofBeijing in

2002.

1 Osnos, Evan. That Low-Priced Cashmere Sweater has a Hidden Cost. Chicago Tribune 28 Dec 2006.2 Lepisto, Christine. Cashmere: Sustainable Fiber or Environmental Disaster? Treehugger. 23 Dec 2006. 01April 2007 .

reducing the impact

In theory, cashmere is an ideal natural fiber. It issustainable and 8x warmer and less coarse thanwool (see fibers left)l, but the cashmere farmingpractices have made cashmere environmentallyunfriendly. Here is how consumers can reducethe impact.

Dont buy the softest sweaterlooser knits meanshorter fibers and more pilling which shortens thelife of the garment.

Buy 2 or 4 ply yarns which are more expensivethan single ply but stronger and more durable.

Recycle. Natural fibers, unlike most syntheticfibers can be recycled and reused.2


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technology and design

The objective of graphic design is to create an image that communicates amessage. A successful graphic design can take a simplified illustration andbring an image to life by using color, line, juxtaposition. Practicing these desigphilosophies of simplification, I started paring down overly complicated designto make them look cleaner and more modern.

design philosophy

graphic design and apparel designmaking connections:

IrinaGraphicDesign2006.


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I used the techniques I learned in mygraphic design courses to create acollection of graphic fabric prints. Using asimple, clean illustration style I created abird pattern and a feather pattern thatwere later printed on silk.

Graphic design has also carried over intomy fashion illustrations. I scan myillustrations and am able to clean upimages and get more accurate colormatching using graphic design softwareversus traditional paper and markerillustrations.

illustrating design

BirdsFabric Pattern

2007.

Sailor MadeFashion Illustration2007.


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intellectual property rights and copyright infringemen

Counterfeiting is by no means a new concept plaguing the designfield, but in recent years the market for counterfeit designer goodshas gone mainstream. Knocking off popular designer items hasbecome a billion dollarindustry. Counterfeiters arent selling theirwares in back alleys anymore, designer knock offs are readilyavailable for purchase online, in stores, and even at purse partieswhere counterfeit bags are sold like tupperware. Even chain stores

are now being sued for pushing the limit on intellectual propertyrights and copyright infringement laws.

counterfeiting

in the design fieldrecognizing ethical issues

A collection ofcounterfeit designer

purses.

underground economy

Purchasing a counterfeit item might seem like a victimless crime sincthe consumer wouldnt be able to afford the real thing anyway, butits not. Counterfeiting hurts the economy, because counterfeiters dnot pay taxes, do not pay copyrights, and their production cant beregulated in any way.1


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inspired by

Mass retailers are stockinggarments that are designerinspired. These garments donot always look like cheap

versions of the designer item.Consumers may even purchasethese items without knowing it isa copied design. The fact thatthese items are sold in storesgive them a more authenticfeel than buying from a streetvendor. Diane von Furstenberg

is currently in a suit againstForever21 for copying prints,designs, and measurements torecreate the dress shown.2

Christian Louboutin is suing OhDeer for knocking off his shoedesigns and signature red sole.3

Christian Louboutin boots (left)Oh Deer designer inspired boots (right)

Diane von Furstenberg dress (left)Forever21 designer inspired dress (right)

1 Barbieri, Alex. Getting Real About Fake Designer Handbags. Bankrate. 29 Sept 2004. 11 March 20082 Lo, Diana. Designer Sues The New York Post. 29 March 2007. 11 March 20083 Foster, Kimberly. OhDear! Christian Louboutin Sues Over Red Sole Copies. All WomensTalk. 2007. 11March 2008

how to fighcounterfeiting

Do research beforepurchasing so you know theproduct youre buying isauthentic. If the price seems too goodto be true, it probably is. No matter how tempted youare to have the hottest new

item, consider about theconsequences of buyingcounterfeit goods.


14/31

how technology is involved in a fashion show production

the future of fashion

The senior Apparel Design and Merchandising class puts on an annual fashionshow. The class of 2008s fashion show was aptly titled, The Future of

Fashion. My contributions to the show were technological. I was involved inthe program committee and was also chair of the technology program.

As chair of the technology committee, I made a PowerPoint presentation thawas projected on two screens during the show. We has also commissioned avideo that was made specifically for the show, so I was also in charge ofmaking sure the switch from the movie to the PowerPoint was a smooth

transition. Troubleshooting the technology was also my job during the show.

technology committee


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Worked a part of ateam to organizeinformation to puttogether a program

for the 2008production ofDominicanUniversity's fashionshow. As part of thecommittee, I had towork with our graphicdesigner to come upwith an appropriate

cover for The Futureof Fashion theme ofthe show.

I helped design thelayout of the mainspread of theprogram. But mybiggest duty was

formatting the ads inthe program.Businesses andindividuals paid forad spaces in theprogram. It was myjob to resize them tofit the space (quarter,half, and full page)

they purchased andmake all the imagesblack and whitesince the programwasnt printed incolor.

program committee

Example spreads: garment descriptions (top) and ads(bottom).


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working at a sole proprietorship

interning at heirloom textiles

As part of my internship at Heirloom Textiles, I got to work hands on a home

business. I helped create garments using a knitting machine and recycledpatchwork purses using patches from home decorating swatch books.

Learned every aspect of how a sole proprietor runs a textile business fromsourcing to selling Learned how to use a knitting machine Learned embroidery and beading techniques Created pieces for the Summer/Spring collection Developed a pattern for a new piece as part of the Heirloom Textilescollection

An example of a recycled patchwork purse (left). A dragonfly purse made withembroidery techniques around the wings and beading techniques for the body (right).

duties


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once upon a midnight drearynocturnal is inspired by the ravena dark, sleek,

graceful creature and the timelesspoetry of edgar allen poe.

a range of eveningwear for petite women

nocturnal


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The Nocturnal collection was designed after researching the market ofpetite womenswear. Even though the average woman is 54,1 there was alack of stores that carried petite garments, but those that did focused more onbusiness wear and casual wear and there was a need for garments that could

be worn in the evening. I did an environmental scan of the current trends,researched my audience, and interviewed petite women to get their wantsand needs before designing this line.

gender: female

age: 20-34 years old

income: : $24,000 to $68,000 2

family size:

ethnicity: not applicable becausemarket is targeted to women of allethnicity

spending habits: $160/month,$1920/year

occupation: not applicablebecause market is not targeted toa certain career

religion: not applicable becausemarket is not targeted toward acertain religion

region: urban settings like new york

city, chicago, los angeles

psychographics

culture: consumer driven

social class: comfortable, able toindulge themselves

reference group: peers or women ofa higher social class

life stage: career development,getting married/divorced, havingchildren

personality: self-confident, social, fun

attitudes: driven, passionate

class consciousness: aware of classdivisions, but doesnt let it affect stylechoices

demographics

1 Barbaro, Michael. Where's the PetiteDepartment? Going the Way of the Petticoat.The New York Times. 28 May 2006. 27 Sept 2007.

2 US CensusBureau. 2007. 04 October 2007.


20/31

blogger cory kennedy2

shows her off her quirkysense of style on herwebsite.

1 CelebrityWonder. 2007. 04October 2007.

2 Corey Kennedy. 25September 2007. 04October 2007 .

fit problems: hem and sleeve length too long, shoulders too large/odd, bustregion too large

favorite colors: darker shades like black, deep purple, midnight blue

fashion inspiration: fashion magazines like vogue, harpers bazaar, vanityfair, blogs like cory kennedy and the sartoralist

style icons: trendsetters

fashion eras: 1940s/1950s, eras of classic dressing

features to emphasize: legs and butt

features to downplay: stomach and arms

style: classic shapes, a fitted/streamlined silhouette,

nothing too risqu, tented or too young/prom

survey


nocturnal


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john cavanagh

honoring the couturiers:

Museum exhibits in the past year have shown theworks of such great couturiers as cristobalbalenciaga, coco chanel, christian dior, yves saintlaurent, and valentino to name a few.

luxury: fur, feathers, elaborate embroidery andbeading

drama: full skirts, plunging necklines, bare backs,added fullness, dramatic sleeves

bold colors: valentino reds and deep jewel tones

attention to detail: how a sleeve is finished, how abow is tiedevery detail is thought out

environmentalscan

valentino yves saint laurent


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petite affair3

marcjacobs1

stellamccartney1

Some among the style obsessed 234 age group are Marc Jacobs,Stella McCartney, Miu Miu, andChle. They make a beautifulrange of eveningwear, but they dnot design with petites in mind. Askirt cut high and voluminous maylook great on a 510 model butwould overwhelm the average

American woman who is only apetite 53. 2 The average retailerconsiders everything from maternitto plus size but petites are oftenoverlooked. 4 Specialty petiteclothing stores cater to a petitesfigure but design more practicalday wear and business wear linesand are lacking when it comes to

evening wear.

the competition

1 style.com. 2007. CondNet,Inc. 27 Sept 2007..

2 Barbaro, Michael. Where's the Petite Department?Going the Way of the Petticoat. The New York Times.28 May 2006. 27 Sept 2007.

3 Petite Affair. 2007. Petite Affair, Ltd. 27 Sept 2007..

4 The Psychology of Shopping, Petite PersonalShopper. 27 Sept 2007.

the website for petite affair offers fashionable solutions for the petite womans everyday lifebut offers little when it comes to special occasion garments.


nocturnal


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for the rare andradiant maiden who

the angels namelenore


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nocturnal

Inspired by the classicpoetry of Edgar AllenPoes The Raven, Iwanted to create adress that was just asclassic. I chose this

deep, vibrantmagenta color basedon my environmentalscan. The color issophisticated and thefabric hangsbeautifully. I chose asilhouette that wasdressed up but not too

dressy because myaudience is young anddoesnt want to feelstiff.

lenore

silk blend


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nocturnal

Plutonian is a drapedsweetheart bodicewith an empire waistbodice and gatheredskirt. I chose thischampagne color in

satin because of theline of The Ravenpoem that reads thenight's Plutonian shore,I imagine the shore tobe cold and icy, butbeautiful andenchantingly so.

plutonian

satin


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a collection of ready to wear garments for the modern woman

I have always drawn inspiration from the city. Continuum was inspired bythe highway because it encompasses the city and goes through the heart ofthe city. I drew from the sleek form of the highway to create the silhouettes formy garments.

I wanted to keep the silhouettes simple so that it would be easy to incorporateinto any wardrobe. My designs are for women who are always on the move,but want to look streamlined and put together even with very little time to get

ready.

concept

continuum

The highway is such an urban feature and I wanted to show off thearchitectural aspects of it.These are the aspects if the highway I wanted to highlight and how I

interpreted them into my designs:

lanes by using pleats sharp curves with princess seams, merging lanes with gathers broken yellow lines with yellow top stitching the asphalt, the dividers, and the lines on the roads are incorporated usingthe urban uniform colors of black, gray, and white with a splash of yellow usedto represent the yellow lines on the roads

I used a mix of hard and soft fabrics for this collection. Just as the city has itshard, cold, modern architectural features, there are also the classic oldbuildings that are preserved in time and I wanted to represent that

juxtaposition. This mix of hard and soft fabrics also makes the collection morevisually interesting and easier to mix and match.

inspiration


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continuum


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asphalt

An asphalt coloredrayon blend jacketwith pleated lanesworn over a pleated

linen blouse andpleated black pencilskirt.

linen

polyester blend

rayon blend


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cotton

crossroad

A light cotton dressmade with intersectingcurves on the bodice

with gathers on the skirtthat represent merginglanes.


continuum


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linen

tarmac

A linen top with pleatsrepresenting lanes anpolyester blend slim c

tuxedo pants with asatin panel lane andtopstitched brokenyellow lines.

polyester blend

satin

Documents

susan online portfolio