stimulate & invigoratelemongrass from India

brighten your days with scents of spring

preserve & protect your organic and natural cosmetic products

spring edition 2014

springspring edition 2014

this issue

spring cover:NeroliCitrus aurantiumSteam distilled from delicate orange blossoms, Neroli essential oil has a beautiful floral scent. It is known for its ability to calm the nerves whilst uplifting the soul and is a very popular oil in perfumery. Cytophylactic properties make it an excellent choice for anti-ageing formulations and it is gentle enough to use on sensitive skin types. Available in Certified Organic, Conventional, Blended Natural, Premium Commercial, Orange Blossom absolute and Infused Water. Visit www.seoc.com.au for more information.

04 Harvest: Lemongrass essential oil from India Stimulate and invigorate body and mind

12 SME Forum: Protect your Cosmetic Products

Find out more about SEOC’s preservative range.

16 Up Close: Spring Blends Bring Harmony & Joy Find your favourite seasonal scent.

20 Supplier Profile: SCA3P (France) Lavender, Lavandin & Clary Sage essential oils

22 Product Specification: Lemongrass oil (India)

Specification for manufacturers

23 Formulation: After Sport Massage Balm

Featuring Lemongrass oil (India)

Welcome to the Spring Oily.In this issue we talk about a very popular topic – preservatives. The hows, whats and whys of protecting natural and organic cosmetics can sometimes be a challenge for even the most experienced formulator. So turn to page 12 to discover our recommendations when using SEOC’s range. Plus, this issue’s Harvest features the sweetly scented Lemongrass oil from India. Read all about the farming methods and aromatic qualities that may make it perfect for your next blend. Speaking of blends, don’t miss the final instalment of our seasonal blends series. We know you’ll love the bright Spring scents! Lucille Wilson, editor

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harvest

Cultivating world-class LemongrassA favourite around the globe, the sweet scented essential oil is right at home in India.

Lemongrass leaves grow rapidly. A newly sown plantation reaches maturity in 6 months and will be harvested on a regular 100 day cycle.

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The warm, humid climate of tropical India is the ideal location for Lemongrass farming and commercial cultivation of the plant is carried out across most regions of the country. From Kerala to Maharashtra along the Western Ghats mountain range, in the states of Karnataka, Tamil Nadu and Gujarat plus the hilly area in Uttarakhand in the north, the crop has become a national commodity.

The Cymbopogon flexuosus species produces a vibrantly scented essential oil that is popular in aromatherapy, natural cosmetics and perfumery applications. Sydney Essential Oil Co.’s supply partner has over 25 years experience in essential oil production and the quality of oil is exemplary.

Traditional Uses of LemongrassThe plant species Cymbopogon has many different genuses that are grown throughout the Asian continent and for centuries the species has been utilised in medicinal applications, cooking and pest control.

In the Marathi language from India, it is known as gavati chaha and is a common ingredient in teas, soups and Ayurvedic medicinal preparations to help soothe coughs, colds and nasal complaints.

Various research institutes across India use the oil to help preserve ancient palm leaf Sanskrit manuscripts that date back thousands of years. The oil helps to keep the manuscripts smooth and prevents decay by protecting from humidity and water.

From India and Sri Lanka across the east to Myanmar, Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam, Cymbopogon flexuosus or East Indian Lemongrass Cochin, is most commonly cultivated for essential oil production. >

Opposite clockwise from top: Farmers regularly tend to their lemongrass crops to ensure water drainage is sufficient. The best season for planting new crops is between June and August when rainfall is minimal. Land owners are encouraged to use natural fertilisers and nurture their soil to improve the longevity of their farms.

harvest

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Its close relative, Cymbopogon citratus, is more widespread throughout South-East Asia as it is extremely popular in cooking and is a key ingredient in the cuisines most countries in that region.

The high citral content of Cymbopogon flexuosus makes the oil extremely useful in fragrance, flavouring, medicinal and germicidal applications and today over 500 tonnes of essential oil is produced in India every year.

Lemongrass PlantationsAt present there are some 3,000 hectares across India dedicated to Lemongrass farming. Optimal weather conditions, including stable humidity, sufficient sunshine and rainfall and consistent temperatures ranging from 30˚-40˚C, produce positive crop yields. Whilst lemongrass can be grown in semi-arid regions the yield is not as high.

Initially, plants are grown from seed in local nurseries and established seedlings are hand planted 60 to 80 centimetres apart to allow for considerable growth. Propagation also occurs when a mature parent plant has its solid root clumps split into smaller slips. Once in the ground it takes approximately 6 months for the newly planted lemongrass to reach full maturity and each plant is maintained for up to 4 years.

The first harvest occurs when the plant is around 6 months old. Subsequent harvests occur on a regular cycle of 90-100 days depending on the fertility of the soil and the rate at which the plant has grown. Under normal seasonal conditions it is possible to achieve 3 harvests in the initial year of planting and then 3 to 4 harvests each following year of the plant’s life cycle. >

harvest

Opposite clockwise from top: Steam distillation units extract the yellowy brown coloured essential oil. India produces approximately 500 tonnes of Lemongrass oil each year which is almost half of the global production. The extracted oil is further processed through a filtration system to remove any excess water molecules.

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10

Farmers harvest their crops manually with sickles and cut the plants 10cm above ground-level to allow natural regeneration. Harvested leaf material is left in the fields for a day to wilt and reduce moisture content before being transported to the distillation facility.

Freshly wilted leaves are processed through the traditional steam distillation method to produce the strong, sweetly scented essential oil. From 1 tonne of leaves approximately 7 kilograms of essential oil is extracted and any discarded plant material is re-used as fuel for the distillation fires.

Lemongrass Essential OilThe bright lemon aroma of Cymbopogon flexuosus is a favourite of aromatherapists and cosmetic manufacturers alike. The rich, vibrant note appeals to both men and women in different applications.

It is recognised for its significant stimulating effect and has the ability to help revive and invigorate a tired mind whilst also kick-starting the body’s systems into action. Lemongrass is a perfect choice for travellers as it can help minimise the onset of jetlag and is also great for athletes as it can relieve aches and pains after an intense work out.

When used in aromatherapy, Lemongrass can help support the digestive system by increasing appetite, alleviating indigestion or reducing the symptoms of other gastro related ailments. It is also useful for circulation and general muscular fatigue.

Cosmetically, the oil is known to offer toning and cleansing properties, which make it ideal for teenage skin treatments or balancing oily skin types. When incorporated in cleanser formulations the results are fantastic and when blended with other cleansing oils such as rosemary or tea tree it can offer a unique aroma profile. Natural soaps, body washes and hand gels are all enhanced with Lemongrass as the scent offers strong aromatic results. 1

harvest

We think it’s the perfect time for you to add Lemongrass oil to your range. For a bulk quote or more

information contact our sales team on 02 9565 2828 or sales@seoc.com.au.

the lively aroma of Lemongrass oil is perfect for foot care. The deodorising action helps keep your feet feeling fresh.

sme fOrum

If you are a cosmetic formulator or manufacturer you’ll go to great lengths to ensure that your products are protected from spoilage, meet any regulatory requirements for your intended markets and are ultimately safe for the end consumer.

After your product is designed, conducting tests for preservative efficacy (PET) and stability provide you with assurance that your ingredients and methods of manufacture are sound.

All personal care products containing water face the challenge of dealing with microbes. This is where preservatives become the essential ingredient in protecting your product. Microbes can appear in many different forms and can spoil your product and/or create skin irritations. When choosing a preserving system, it must be robust and inhibit the growth of all types of microbes, from Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria such as Staphylococcus and Bacillus (Gram-positive), Salmonella and E-Coli (Gram-negative), to moulds, yeasts and fungi.

So Which Preservative Should I Choose?SEOC offers a range of both natural and synthetic preservatives that provide varying levels of protection against certain types of microbes.

Leucidal_ inci: Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate is a natural antimicrobial peptide originally derived from lactic acid bacteria. This natural preservative restricts the growth of >

& SEOC’s guide to cosmetic preservatives.Selecting a preserving system to suit your desired label claim and ingredient combination will help produce optimal results.

microbes love water! So it is important to make sure your preserving system is highly effective in all water based emulsions, including creams, lotions and body butters.

Preserve Protect

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sme fOrum

micro-organisms including bacteria and fungi. It is GMO Free and may be suitable for use in organic formulations.

The water soluble liquid is heat stable to 70°C. It is colour-less and scent-free and is most active in a pH range of 3-8 therefore it is effective over a wide range of cosmetic and personal care applications. A unique attribute of Leucidal is that it also increases the moisturisation rate of cream formulations and improves the cosmetic skin results. It is commonly paired with Phytocide Elderberry to create a strong natural preserving system. Recommended use is a range of 2-4%.

Phytocide Elderberry_ inci: Sambucus nigra Fruit Extract is a natural antimicrobial derived from the super fruit Elderberry. It inhibits Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria, fungi, moulds and yeasts and is ideal for use in most cosmetic applications. Similar to Leucidal, it is also GMO Free and may be suitable for use in organic formulations.

It is an oil soluble liquid and therefore not effective in water based sprays or mists, but performs well in emulsions, gels and haircare products. It is heat stable to 75°C and is best suited to a pH range of 3-9. The recommended levels are from 1-5% and utilising a co-preservative, such as Leucidal, will increase the preserving system efficacy. An added benefit of Phytocide Elderberry is its multi-functional action. The rich anti-oxidant levels provide anti-ageing properties and a mild anti-inflammatory effect.

Naticide_ inci: Parfum or Fragrance is a vegetable-origin, broad spectrum anti-microbial fragrance that acts as a preservative. It is effective against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria, as well as moulds and yeasts. Cosmetically, it is classified as a fragrance and as such a label claim of preservative-free is possible. As it retains a sweet aroma that is similar to vanilla and almond, you will need to consider the scent profile you wish to achieve in your final product.

Naticide may be used on its own or in conjunction with other preservatives, such as Potassium Sorbate. It is suitable for use in emulsions, gels, cleansers, shampoos and the recommended usage

is between 0.3-1% when used as a single preservative, or between 0.2-0.5% when incorporated as a co-preservative.

The clear liquid is heat stable to 70°C. It is dispersible in water up to 0.6% and is completely soluble in glycol or alcohol. It is most effective in finished products with a pH range of 4 to 9.

Potassium Sorbate_ inci: Potassium sorbate is a mild natural preservative that inhibits moulds, fungus and some bacteria. It is best used as a co-preservative with Naticide or Phenoxyenthanol.

The water soluble powder performs well when pre-dissolved in the water phase of a formulation and is heat stable up to 70-80°C. It is effective in emulsions, gels and shampoos and can be used at very low levels. When employed as the sole preservative it is recommended at 0.1-0.5%, however, it is more suited to co-preservation at 0.02-0.09%. The ideal pH range for Potassium sorbate is slightly acidic at pH 4.4.

Phenoxyethanol_ inci: Phenoxyethanol is recognised as a non-hazardous, non-sensitising, formaldehyde-free synthetic preservative. It effectively inhibits Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria, but it can be weak on fungus, yeast and mould. Therefore, is it best used with a co-preservative such as Potassium sorbate.

Phenoxyethanol is heat stable up to 85°C and there are virtually no pH limitations as it is active across a broad range from 3 to 10. The clear liquid is soluble in water and oil so it can be incorporated in the early phases of a formulation or post emulsification. For gels, it is best added to the water phase before mixing to ensure even dispersion. The recommended usage levels are 0.1-1%.

Whilst we trust the information we have provided will assist you in choosing a preservative that suits your application, we also recommend undertaking appropriate testing to ensure your preservative system is successful in your formulation. 1

Engaging the services of a microbiological testing laboratory and carrying out adequate testing prior

to releasing products to market will guarantee confidence. If you would like any further information

or a referral to a laboratory please contact us at sales@seoc.com.au.

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As we emerge from winter’s hibernation, we can rejoice in Spring’s arrival with a sense of optimism. Fresh scents and Spring go hand in hand, as they bring us a daily boost of energy. Here we’ve picked our favourite Spring-time aromas that will help revive your senses and motivate you to embrace new projects.

up cLOse

Equilibrium Blend mOOD: BaLaNciNg famiLY: herBaLIngredients: Grapefruit Pink*, Geranium*,

Lime Cold Pressed*, Rosemary CT Cineole*,

Spearmint* (*Denotes Certified Organic)

A blend for geranium lovers, Equilibrium will help bring you into alignment and find inner balance. The sweet, herbaceous aroma will lift your spirits, helping to reduce stress and ease anxiety. All skin types will benefit from its cleansing properties and the gender neutral scent makes it perfect for both men and women. editor’s tip: Add 2% to SEOC’s Natural Melt & Pour Oatmeal Soap for an excellent top to toe mild exfoliating bar.

Green Leaf Blend mOOD: BaLaNciNg famiLY: greeN Ingredients: Grapefruit White, Petitgrain,

Geranium, Lime, Violet Leaf Absolute

A first-rate combination of essential oils gives Green Leaf an extremely unique aroma profile. The freshness of grapefruit and lime counter the dry violet note creating a smooth perfume style blend. Balancing to the nervous system, this blend will allay feelings of anger and improve disrupted sleeping patterns. The blend’s toning action will help minimise skin breakouts and clear congestion.editor’s tip: Add 1½% to SEOC’s Paraben-free Shampoo & Nourishing Conditioner for a freshly scented haircare product range. >

Let your spirit soar as the new season brings sunshine and happiness. Find your favourite essential oil blend to enhance your mood each day.

Spring marks a time when new energies stir and nature surrounds us with growth. Buds explode in colour, delicate leaves begin to form and we too seek opportunities for stimulation and growth. Embrace this magical season with passion and ambition.

springscents to brighten your day

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suppLY partNerup cLOse

Harmony Blend mOOD: BaLaNciNg famiLY: citrusIngredients: Orange Sweet, Lavender Maillette,

Geranium, Ylang Ylang 1st Grade, Chamomile Roman*

(*Denotes Certified Organic)

Harmony Blend is an excellent choice for massage therapists as it will help to increase the efficacy of your body work treatments. Calming the senses and instilling feelings of peace, you will find your clients are completely blissed out by the end of your treatment session. editor’s tip: Add 20-25mL to 1 Litre of SPA INC. Unscented Water Dispersible Massage Oil for a harmonising full body treatment.

Heart Warming Blend mOOD: BaLaNciNg famiLY: fLOraL Ingredients: Orange Sweet*, Lime Cold Pressed*,

Geranium*, Patchouli*, Ylang Ylang Complete*, Rose Otto

(*Denotes Certified Organic)

Feel the love with this warm, deep floral aroma. Heart Warming blend brings comfort to the soul and promotes a gentle, caring nature. It is a fantastic addition for most skincare applications as it offers balancing, toning and anti-ageing benefits. Fine lines will be minimised and your complexion will glow.editor’s tip:: Add 0.5% to a SEOC’s Aloe Day Face Cream to create an exceptional anti-ageing moisturiser.

Inspiration Blend mOOD: upLiftiNg famiLY: arOmaticIngredients: Mandarin, Eucalyptus Radiata*, Lemongrass,

Cardamom, Peppermint (*Denotes Certified Organic)

Inspiration is a great, stimulating blend with a strong clear aroma to help sharpen the mind. Its vibrant scent is impressively clean and will motivate you into action. The oil combination provides robust cleansing properties and will stimulate blood flow when incorporated in body wash formulations. Around the house this blend offers antiseptic properties so is ideal for natural cleaning products.editor’s tip: Add 2-3% to Tea Tree Infused Water and shake well for a deodorising room spray.

New Beginnings Blend mOOD: BaLaNciNg famiLY: greeNIngredients: Orange Sweet*, Petitgrain, Bergamot*,

Lemon*, Rosemary*, Spearmint (*Denotes Certified Organic)

With a fresh, sparkling aroma, New Beginnings is the perfect blend to start your day! It infuses positivity and joy to any environment. Vaporise around your home or use it blended with jojoba as a pulse point perfume for an immediate pick-me-up. In cosmetics it will brighten your complexion and keep your youthful skin clean and clear.editor’s tip: Add 1% to SEOC’s Paraben & Sulphate-free Shower/Bath Gel Base to create an uplifting and enlivening shower gel.

Read about the full collection of SEOC essential oil blends on page 22 of the SEOC 2013/14 Product Portfolio & Price List. Or for more information visit www.seoc.com.au, or contact our sales team on 02 9565 2828. 1

Vaporiser

Massage oil or balm

Haircare, shampoo, conditioner, treatments

Creams, lotions, body butter

Bath gel, body wash, bubble bath

Hand wash

House hold/cleaning

suggesteD appLicatiONs iN fiNisheD prODucts

Société Coopérative Agricole des Plantes à Parfum de Provence

(SCA3P) has a 300-strong membership based in the picturesque French Alps

of Southern France. With a belief in community spirit, this cooperative unites independent growers, innovative production

and world-class distribution. Together they produce essential

oils with sustainability and exceptional quality at their core.

iN the BegiNNiNg

Founded in 1979 by a small group of local

producers, the cooperative was built on the

ideology of equal opportunity and

neighbourly support. Members sought to

improve economic conditions for all

growers in the region and to self-manage

their distribution channels.

Over the decades, more and more farmers

joined the organisation as the members

found success in solidarity. No longer were

they relying on brokers to trade their

essential oils, instead they were able to sell

direct and benefit from their international

reputation for quality and excellence.

uNique prOcessiNg

A key element to the SCA3P’s success is

their impressive production methods. The

quality and freshness of their essential oils

is largely due to the swift progression from

farm to distillation. During the harvest,

plant material is collected directly into a

large container that doubles as the

distillation unit. Once full, this container is

immediately transferred to the distillery and

essential oil production takes place within a

matter of hours. It is this innovative method

that helped SCA3P become the largest

essential oil organisation in France with an

annual production of 350 tonnes.

sca3p’s phiLOsOphY

Market transparency, fair remuneration and

economic efficiency are SCA3P’s main

objectives and the team are focussed on

maintaining these high standards. Certified

Organic through EcoCert, all levels of the

cooperative undergo annual audits. The

farmers, the distillery and the cooperative

all meet the strict regulations and the

certification reinforces the co-op’s

fundamental philosophies of purity, quality

and sustainability.

sca3p & sYDNeY esseNtiaL OiL cO.

SCA3P essential oils hold an important

position in SEOC’s product portfolio. As their

distributor, we offer Certified Organic and

Conventional Lavender Maillette, Lavandin

Abrialis and Lavandin Grosso as well as

herbaceous Clary Sage. All products are

available with original supplier

documentation, including a batch specific

Certificate of Analysis. 1

To find out more about the SCA3P range of essential oils or

to request a quote, contact our sales team at sales@seoc.

com.au or phone 02 9565 2828.

Finest French Essential

Oils

SCA3P

fields in the south of france are awash with brilliant colours as Clary Sage, Lavandin (below left) and Lavender (below right) flowers bloom in time for harvesting.

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suppLier prOfiLe

2322

prODuct specificatiON fOrmuLatiON

After Sport Massage Balmperformance: relieves muscular aches, deodorising action, minimises fatigue.appearance: soft, pale yellow balm with a rich matt finish. aroma: vibrant lemony scent with bright minty notes. stability: expected shelf life 12 months subject to manufacturing practice. recommended use: apply directly to the legs and feet after exercise, massage well.

method of manufacture1. Combine ingredients in Phase A and mix well. Allow to synergise for 30 minutes.2. Combine ingredients in Phase B and heat to 70°C.3. Allow to cool to 50°C.4. Add Phase C to Phase B and mix well.5. Add Phase A to mixture while stirring constantly.6. Allow to cool to room temperature in jar before sealing lid.

for ingredients contact sydney essential Oil co. +61 2 9565 2828.

Disclaimer Product formulations are included as illustrative examples only. Whilst all care has been taken

in presenting example formulations, Sydney Essential Oil Co. accepts no responsibility concerning any

product manufactured using such formulations. The responsibility for the performance for marketing claim

and adequate testing for stability of any product prior to sale lies with the manufacturer thereof.

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phase raw material % w/w

A Grapefruit Pink oil 1

Cedarwood Atlas oil (Morocco) 0.5

Lavender Spike oil (Spain) – Certified Organic 0.5

Lemongrass oil (India) 0.3

Peppermint Yakima oil (USA) 0.2

B Arnica Infused oil – Certified Organic 23

Comfrey Infused oil – Certified Organic 23

Grapeseed Pure oil 22.01

Cocoa Butter Refined (chips) 10

Beeswax Natural 8.49

C Shea Nut Butter – Certified Organic 10

Natural Tocopherol 50 1

100% w/w

product Lemongrass oil (india)

Botanical Name: Cymbopogon flexuosus

Origin: India

Appearance: Clear mobile liquid

Colour: Deep yellow to orange-brown

Odour: Fresh grassy lemon

Plant part used: Grass leaves

Extraction method: Steam distillation

physio-chemical properties

Specific Gravity @ 20°C: 0.8725 – 0.9100

Refractive Index @ 20°C: 1.4780 – 1.4936

Optical rotation: -15.00º to +15.00º

Flash Point: ≥65°C in closed cup

Oil components

Aldehyde (measured as Citral = Neral + Geranial)

Min 70%

Other informationpackaging: As required.storage: Store in tightly sealed containers in a cool, dry place without direct sunlight or heat. handling: Well ventilated area and avoid open flame or other sources of ignition.shelf Life: Three (3) years from date of manufacture (when stored in appropriate conditions).

for more information contact sydney essential Oil co. +61 2 9565 2828.

typical analysis

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Sydney Essential Oil Co. Pty Ltd. ABN 95 096 439 299

11 Burrows Road South, St Peters NSW 2044 Australia

PO Box 226 St Peters NSW 2044

T: + 61 2 9565 2828 F: + 61 2 9519 8009 E: sales@seoc.com.au

Order online www.seoc.com.au

Office hours: 9am-5pm Monday to Friday

© Copyright 2014 Sydney Essential Oil Co. Pty Ltd. All rights reserved.

No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or

transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopy,

recording or otherwise, without prior written permission of the publisher.

Contact marketing@seoc.com.au with any requests.

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