SPINNING NORMS

SPINNING NORMS

Prof. R. ChattopadhyayIIT, Delhi

Table 1 Cotton fibre characteristics for different yarn counts

Yarn Count (Nm)

Cotton Variety

Staple length (mm)

2.5% SL (mm)

UR(%)

Fineness

(Mic)

Tenacityg/tex

Trash (%)

< 16 Deshi, Wagad, Striping & Comber waste

< 20 16.8 –

22.1

48 -

53

4.7-

7.4

16.2-

21.9

3- 10

16-23 Wagad, Virnar, Jayadhar & Stripping

20 - 23 21.5 -

23.4

48 -

53

4.6 –

5.2

1 5.0 -

21.9

5-10

24-32 Virnar, AK-235, Gaorani, J-34, CJ-73, Y-1, V-797, F-414

22 - 24 23.2-

26.1

46-

52

3.9-

5.2

16.9 -

24.0

3 - 10

Yarn Count (Nm)

Cotton Variety

Staple length (mm)

2.5% S L

(mm)

UR(%)

Fineness

(Mic)

Tenacityg/tex

Trash (%)

33-42 J-34, CJ-73, Y-1, V-797, F-414, A-51/9

16.9- 24

23.2-26.1

46- 52 3.8- 5.2

16.9- 24.0

3- 10

43-52 F-414, A-51/9, SRT-1, 1007, Laxmi, Shankar-4 (B), JKHY-1

18.1-22.2

23.4-29.5

44.6-49.4

3.6- 4.6

18.1- 22.2

6- 8

53-62 Digvijay, co2, SRT-1, 1007, Laxmi, Shankar-4 (B)

- 23.7-29.5

44.6-49.0

3.5- 4.6

18.1- 22.2

6-7

Yarn Count (Nm)

Cotton Variety

Staple length (mm)

2.5%S L

(mm)

UR(%)

Fineness

(Mic)

Tenacityg/tex

Trash (%)

63-70 1007, Laxmi, Shankar-4 (A), (B) & (E), American 1.1/8

- 26.3-

29.5

44.6-49.4

3.6-

4.0

18.2-

22.2

6-7

71-102 Shankar-4 (A), MCU-5 (A) & (B), Varalaxmi (B) Sudan GI, Sudan GS

- 25.6-

34.9

45.7-

49.0

2.8-

4.0

21.2-

28.3

21.2-28.3

103-137 Varalaxmi (A) & (B), MCU-5 (A),(Sudan GS, Giza-68)

- 25.8-34.9

42-

50

2.8-

4.0

21.2-

28.3

5-6

Yarn Count (Nm)

Cotton Variety

Staple length (mm)

2.5%S L

(mm)

UR(%)

Fineness

(Mic)

Tenacityg/tex

Trash (%)

138-170 Varalaxmi

(A), Suvin

(Giza-45)

- 35-

37.4

45-

49.5

2.7-3.1 30.1-32.6 3

170 and

above

Suvin

(Giza-45)

41.0 37.6 49.5 2.7-3.0 30.8-33.0 2

Note: These are only indicative values. The characteristics are variable from year to year.

Source: CIRCOT, Mumbai; KVIC, Mumbai.

Table 2 Properties of polyester to be blended with cotton for different end-uses

End-uses Yarn count group (Nm)

Length (mm)

Fineness (den)

Tenacity

(g/ den)

Shirting and sarees

Suiting

70 -100

2/50- 2/70

38- 44

38- 44

1.2

1.5

4.5- 6.0

4.5 - 5.5

Table 3 Norm for yarn count CV%

Metric count group Count CV%

Cotton

Coarser (Up to 24)

Medium (24 to 70)

Finer (Above 70)

10

8

6

Polyvastra

For all count groups 6

Table 4 Norms for yarn CSP

Metric count group (Nm)

Lea dimensions

80 threads, 120 yard 100 threads, 100m Normal

(Nm Kg)Superior

(Nm Kg) Normal

(Nm Kg) Superior

(Nm Kg)

CottonBelow 66 – 1616 – 2424 – 3636 – 5050 – 7070 – 8585 – 100100–140Above 140

*750950

1000105011501200150015201450

*900

10501100120012701300165017001550

*900

11401200126013801440180018201740

*108012601320152015201560198020401860

Polyvastra Below 3636 – 7070 – 100100 -140

*20802080

*

*22802150

*

*25002500

*

*27402580

*

Table 5 Norm for CSP CV%

Metric count group CSP CV%

Cotton 12

Polyvastra 12

Table 6 Norms for yarn unevenness values (U%)

Metric count group Unevenness (U%)

Cotton


Polyvastra


Table 7 Imperfections in khadi yarn

Metric count group

Total Imperfections

(Nos / Km)

Thick Places (Nos/Km)

Thin Places (Nos/Km)

Neps (Nos/Km)


***

470058008300

***

7700

***

160017002500

***

2100

***

160016002450

***

2500

***

125021002600

***

2900


*3800

**

*1400

**

*930

**

*1600

**

Table 8 Appearance grade for khadi yarn

Metric count group Appearance grade

Cotton

Up to 16

16 to 36

Above 36

D

D or D+

D or C

Polyvastra

For all count groups C

Table 9 Norm for twist in the yarn

Metric count group

Minimum twist

(Turns/inch)

Maximum twist

(Turns/inch)

Minimum twist

(Turns/cm)

Maximum twist

(Turns/cm)


*11.015.019.020.523.026.025.032.038.0

*15.019.022.025.027.030.039.040.050.0

*56789

10111315

*679

101112151620


*20.023.0

*

*23.026.0

*

*89*

*9

10*

Table 10 BIS Norms of some cotton khadi fabrics (Constructional parameters and property)

Types of Fabric

Metric Count of Yarn (Nm

Thread Density

Mass g/m2

Breaking load (on 10x20 cm strip, N

Warp Weft Ends/cm Picks/cm Warp Weft

Bed sheets (Bleached)

27 27 16 (Double)

14

(Double) 190 490 390

Bunting Cloth (Dyed)

17 14 14 13 190 450 330

Pugre Cloth (Bleached or Dyed)

30 30 16 16 110 334 294

Types of Fabric


Thread Density

Mass g/m2



Honey Comb and Huck-a-

Back Towels

(Bleached)

a) 14

b) 14

c) 17

d) 24

e) 34

a) 14

b) 10

c) 17

d) 20

e) 34

11(Double)

11(Double)

8(Double)

18(Double)

11(Double)

9(Double)

7(Double)

8(Double)

13(Double)

9(Double)

360

325

198

290

218

450

620

450

1200

630

430

530

450

660

530

Long Cloth

(Bleached)

27 20 17 17 160 392 372

Dosuti

(Bleached or Dyed)

a) 27

b) 20

a) 27

b) 17

14(Double)

12(Double)

13(Double)

11(Double)

205

260

760

800

660

660

Types of Fabric


Thread Density

Mass g/m2



Napkins and Table

Cloth(Bleached)

a) 27

b) 27

a) 27

b) 20

14(Double)

17

13(Double)

17

205

160

760

390

660

370

Dungri Cloth

(Bleached)

17 17 13 12 180 390 370

Dusters

(Bleached)

17 14 13 12 170 450 430

Lining Cloth

(Dyed)

20 17 16 14 185 450 430

Sheeting Cloth

(Bleached)

20 20 16 16 170 450 450

Types of Fabric


Thread Density

Mass g/m2



Sponge Cloth

(Grey)

200/2 14 or 7

9 9 90 - -

Tolerance percentage for thread density = ±1

Method of test:

1. Thread density: IS 1963: 1981

2. Mass (g/m2)- IS 1964:1970,

3. Breaking load- IS 1969:1985

Types of Fabric

Yarn count used

(Nm)

Metric countRange

Thread density (per cm) Range

GSM(g/m2)

Warp Weft Warp Weft

Kurta, pajama & salwar suit

20-30 24- 27 20- 27 17- 21 11- 14 119- 138

30-50 31- 49 29- 47 16- 29 14- 21 95- 148

50-80 52 52 37 26 125

80-100 - - - - -

Above 100 101- 126 108- 165 37- 61 40- 44 59- 107

Dhoti

Medium 40- 59 51- 58 20- 25 16- 23 82- 90

Superfine 108- 145 105- 140 33- 35 27- 51 59- 63

Saree

Medium 50 54 20 16 74

Fine 83 82 36 26 78

Superfine 102- 141 115- 150 28- 32 22- 32 43- 45

Table 11 Constructional parameters and physical property of additional khadi fabrics

Types of Fabric

Yarn count used(Nm)

Breaking Strength (N)

Range

Elongation %Range

Warp Weft Warp Weft

Kurta, pajama

& salwar suit

20-30 120- 235 95- 170 7- 10 10- 14

30-50 140- 330 125- 210 8- 18 8- 27

50-80 245 210 11 11

80-100 - - - -

Above 100 110- 305 170- 225 8-9 8- 9

Dhoti

Medium 165- 200 95- 190 11- 12 10- 17

Superfine 120- 125 135- 205 11- 13 8-9

Saree

Medium 160 140 7 12

Fine 235 190 12 9

Superfine 140- 160 140- 145 6-9 5- 7

Types of Fabric

Yarn count used

(Nm)

Tearing strength (Kg) Range

Fabric dimensions(cm) Range

No of samples tested

Warp Weft Width Length

Kurta, pajama & salwar suit

20-30 1-3 1-2.5 88-89 - 3

30-50 1-3.5 1-2 84-107 - 9

50-80 2 2 - - 1

80-100 - - - - 0

Above 100 0.5-1 0.5-1.5 - - 2

Dhoti

Medium 1-2 1-2 105-112 350-380 3

Superfine 0.5-1 0.5-1.5 120-124 394-400 2

Saree

Medium 2.5 2.5 110 588 1

Fine 0.5 0.5 114 504 1

Superfine 0.5-1 0.5-1 115-120 520-532 2

Types of Fabric

Yarn count used(Nm)

Metric countRange


GSM(g/m2)

Warp Weft Warp Weft

Shirting

Med/coarse 31-32 7 18-19 9-10 221-223

Medium 35-39 40-45 18-26 14-19 97-124

Fine/coarse 70 13 21 10 133

Fine 69 65 34 35 114

Fine/superfine 95 108 30 44 88

Superfine 141-155 100-172 57-87 50-73 75-113

Coating Bundy 28-43 4-9 14-26 8-9 197-275

Pant 10 11 26 11 408

Lungi

Med/coarse 26 15 18 12 160

Medium 27-41 27-48 18-23 12-19 107-124

Fine 61 70 26 19 83

Superfine 101 96 34 27 68

Types of Fabric

Yarn count used(Nm)


Range

Elongation %Range

Warp Weft Warp Weft

Shirting

Med/coarse 215-220 185-200 15-17 9-12

Medium 210-250 100-240 8-10 12-19

Fine/coarse 100 210 14 8

Fine 160 220 10 12

Fine/superfine 140 190 10 10

Superfine 200-235 205-305 9-15 9-11

CoatingBundy 160-260 195-370 12-24 11-15

Pant 1110 520 14 11

Lungi

Med/coarse 240 250 26 19

Medium 225-230 145-175 14-15 8-16

Fine 170 135 14 8

Superfine 140 140 14 8

Types of Fabric

Yarn count used(Nm)


Fabric dimensions(cm) Range No of

samples testedWarp Weft Width Length

Shirting

Med/coarse 4-4.5 2.5-3 91-98 - 2

Medium 1-2.5 0.5-1.5 83-84 - 3

Fine/coarse 2 1 90 - 1

Fine 1 1 89 - 1

Fine/superfine 1 0.5 100 - 1

Superfine 1-3 0.5-3.5 91-100 - 3

CoatingBundy 3-4.5 2.5-4 72-87 - 4

Pant 2 3 87 - 1

Lungi

Med/coarse 2.5 4 110 218 1

Medium 1-1.5 2-4 108-116 204-230 2

Fine 3 2 125 176 1

Superfine 1 1 125 176 1

Types of Fabric

Yarn count used(Nm)

Metric countRange


GSM(g/m2)

Warp Weft Warp Weft

Towel

Turkish 18-19 27-42 26-27 16-19 231-239

Honey comb 19-39 10-38 25-32 15-24 164-311

Huck-a-back 7 5 8 8 467

Bed sheets Single thread 19-32 5-35 14-26 8-17 141-262

Double thread

29-37 33-41 19-29 13-26 130-178

Gamchha

Med/coarse 25-36 13-18 17-21 12-17 148-178

Medium 55 56 24 18 77

Fine/medium 64 51 24 19 86

Types of Fabric

Yarn count used(Nm)


Range

Elongation %Range

Warp Weft Warp Weft

Towel

Turkish 275-295 135-175 12-15 6-8

Honey comb 280-900 170-805 13-25 17-19

Huck-a-back 315 145 20 14

Bed sheets

Single thread 190-290 185-340 11-17 12-17

Double thread 120-285 60-260 7-13 8-15

Gamchha

Med/coarse 205-340 160-320 18-22 12-18

Medium 135 115 13 10

Fine/medium 120 265 14 10

Types of Fabric

Yarn count used(Nm)




Towel

Turkish 3.5-4 3-3.5 67-68 128-136 2

Honey comb 4-4.5 3-3.5 65-73 128-164 3

Huck-a-back BC BC 67 136 1

Bed sheets

Single thread BC BC 126-142 230-260 3

Double thread 1.5-4 2-3.5 200-222 250-300 3

Gamchha

Med/coarse 1.5-5 1-4 75-76 160-165 2

Medium 1.5 1 90 152 1

Fine/medium 1.5 1.5 90 308 1

Types of Fabric

Yarn count used(Nm)

Metric countRange


GSM(g/m2)

Warp Weft Warp Weft

Curtain 2/34 33-34 30-31 16-29 12-16 100-143

14 24 17 26 19 225

Khes Single 20-32 3-9 12-26 7-9 200-367

Double 5-6 4-6 13-14 7-8 484-489

Dari

Loom 2-20 1-5 2-7 6-30 514-937

Punja 2 1 17 3 1446

Polyvastra Coating

Dosuti 26 23-26 25-27 15-17 171-182

Single 53-60 43-56 27 19-22 97-102

Shirting Double 22-46 22-49 18-41 17-28 131-168

Types of Fabric

Yarn count used(Nm)


Range

Elongation %Range

Warp Weft Warp Weft

Curtain 2/34 205-415 175-215 6-8 2-19

14 235 290 13 15

Khes Single 140-350 120-425 10-12 10-14

Double 210-265 115-155 15-16 11-14

Dari

Loom 100-210 635-1015 5-10 16-27

Punja 970 475 BC BC

Polyvastra Coating

Dosuti 1060-1090 650-770 15-18 14-22

Single 400-405 230-415 10-13 14-26

Shirting Double 580-820 405-655 12-18 16-18

Types of Fabric

Yarn count used(Nm)




Curtain 2/34 3-4.5 3-3.5 85-124 - 2

14 BC BC 80 - 1

Khes Single BC BC 120-125 220-225 3

Double 4-4.5 3-3.5 120-128 245-256 2

Dari

Loom BC BC 92-117 192-200 3

Punja BC BC 131 208 1

Polyvastra Coating

Dosuti 3.5-4.5 3-4 71-72 - 2

Single 1-2 1-2 117 - 2

Shirting Double 4-4.5 3-3.5 73-90 - 4BC: Indicates beyond the capacity of the machine

Table 12 Productivity of cotton yarn (gm/spl hr)

Sl No. Count (Nm) Production

(gm/spl hr)

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

6

14

35

45

50

80

100

150

62

42

12-13

12-13

12-13

7-8

7-8

2.5

Table 13 Productivity of cotton yarn (No. of hanks per 8 hour)

Count (Nm) Production (No. of

hanks per 8 hour)

Coarse

Medium

Fine

35-38

32-35

30-32

Table 14 Productivity of cotton fabric [production/hr (mts)]

Types of fabric

Metric count

Grey width (Inches)

Thread density (Per inch) Production

(mts/hr) Warp Weft Warp Weft

Pajama (Dosuti)

35/2 35/2 36 80 70 0.7

Pajama (Eksuti)

35 35 36 48 44 0.8

Shirting 40 40 45 40 40 1

Shirting 40 40 36 50 46 0.75

Shirting 40 40 36 48 48 0.7

Shirting 44 44 54 40 36 1

Shirting 100/2 100/2 36 60 54 0.5

Shirting 60 60 45 60 54 1

Shirting 60 60 40 48 46 0.8

Types of fabric

Metric count

Grey width (Inches)



Shirting 60 60 45 56 54 0.75

Shirting 100 100 45 76 72 1

Shirting 100 100 45 76 45 0.75

Shirting 100 100 45 76 72 0.6

Shirting 100 100 36 76 72 0.7

Shirting (Checks)

100 100 36 60 55 0.5

Bed Sheet

(Do Suti)

35/2 35/2 48 80 72 0.7

Bed Sheet

26/2 4 60 30 30 1.2

Bed Sheet

(Twill)

30/2 4 60 30 30 1

Types of fabric

Metric count

Grey width (Inches)



Coating 32/2 32/2 34 40 36 1

Coating 56/2 56/2 38 56 50 0.9

Coating (Poly)

70/3 70/3 34 56 50 0.8

Coating (Poly)

70/3 70/3 34 56 50 1.5

Coating (Bundy)

32 32 28 40 40 1

Denim 10 10 34 128 42 0.4

Dari (3*6)

20/6 4/4 36 10 10 0.3

Dari (9*12)

20/9 6/4 144 7 8 0.3

Dhoti 100 100 50 80 76 0.8

Dhoti 60 60 54 50 46 1

Types of fabric

Metric count

Grey width (Inches)



Saree (Plain)

100 100 45 60 56 0.6

Saree (Colour)

100 100 45 80 75 0.4

Saree (Patta)

60 60 45 40 45 1

Saree with

Border

60 60 45 40 40 0.7

Lungi 40 40 45 48 46 0.8

Lungi 60 60 45 40 40 0.7

Lungi (Colour)

34 34 46 40 40 1

Towel (Mat)

20/2 34/2 36 34 34 1

Dupatta 56 56 36 40 38 1

Essential Test Equipments Required for Routine Quality Checking

Sl No.

Name of the Instrument

Property assessed

BIS Standard

1 Baer sorter Fibre length IS 10014 (Part 1): 1984

2 Fibre fineness tester Fibre fineness (Micronaire value)

IS 3674: 1966

3 Wrap reel for sliver/roving

Sliver / roving count

-

Fibre

Yarn

Sl No.


Property assessed

BIS Standard

1 Wrap reel Lea formation -

2 Lea strength tester Lea strength (CSP)

IS 1671: 1977

3 Twist tester (Single & double yarn)

The amount of twist per cm or inch

IS 832: 1985

4 Yarn board winder Appearance grading of yarn

IS 1671: 1977

Fabric

Sl No.


Property to be measured

BIS Standard

1 Pick glass Thread density IS 1963: 1981

2 Measuring tape Length & width -

3 Fabric strength tester

Strength IS 1969: 1985

4 Round cutter GSM -

Chemical processing

Sl No.


Property to be measured

BIS Standard

1 Light fastness

tester

Light fastness IS 2454: 1985

2 Launderometer Washing fastness IS 687, IS 3361,

IS 764, IS 765,

IS 3417

3 Crockmeter Rubbing fastness IS 105

4 Shrinkage

Template

Dimensional

changes

IS 10099: 1982

5 Spectrophotometer Whiteness

measurement

-

Documents

SPINNING NORMS