The Noobtaculus Guide To

Fixing Your Samsung YP-P2's Audio Jack

rev 0.2/5th April, 2009

This is still an early version of what I hope to finally put out there; just a quick guide for you people

who either passed the one year default Samsung warranty on this product or just can't give two shits

about the warranty. This is a step-by-step guide on resoldering the audio jack on the YP-P2 but yes, it

will void you warranty because you are opening the player.

All material copyright except for excerpts from the Samsung service documentation.

© Martin Klemes

Revisions

Version Date Comments

0.1 03/09/09 Initial document release

0.2 04/05/09 Added backside of jack solder supplementing

Reading and following this guide does not ensure you won't screw anything up; plenty of things

can go wrong, but that's true for anything. I am not responsible for any of your failures, keep

that in mind.

Getting Ready:

You'll need:

● Your YP-P2

● A soldering iron

● Wet sponge or something to wipe the tip of the iron

● Solder

● Phillips (the cross shape, noob) screwdriver (jeweller's set-size or just the smallest you can find;

if it unscrews the outside back screw no problem, you're good to go)

You'll want to set up a clear area for this because it could get finicky. The soldering iron should have a

small pointy tip because this is semi-precise however, if you don't have such a tip it's okay, just be more

careful. Also, be careful because the soldering iron gets very hot.

This guide is based on the directions outlined in the YP-P2 product service manual (what service

stations use when they refurbish/repair devices). The following is the “No Sound” symptom and

solution flowchart:

(© Samsung Electronics Co.,Ltd. Jan. 2008)

The problem is, as you've probably figured out, the solder has not been thoroughly applied and

normal wear and tear has broken the connection to some extent. Easily fixed by “supplementing the

solder on the jack”. Soldering the back (slits) of the jack also helps to strengthen it structurally.

(© Samsung Electronics Co.,Ltd. Jan. 2008)

You will be reflowing and adding solder to the three contacts of the audio jack to the PCB as shown

above (circled in red and green) as well as the back of the jack (inside).

Note: If you've already read this far you're most likely willing to open up your P2, but for those

who are scared to do this, there is the hairdryer method. It hasn't returned a very high success rate due

primarily to the fact that there isn't enough solder to reflow (with the heat from the hairdryer) and often

times, the hair dryer isn't high enough in wattage (~2000W+). The general rule is that the heat from the

dryer should be able to soften solder from as far away as you are from the P2. You can apply heat from

the hairdryer to the corner where the audio jack is from the bottom and hope that the connection will be

re-established. This, however is only a temporary fix and will need to be redone soon enough. This

solution is for the faint-hearted and not-so recommended.

Process:

All your stuff should be ready to go, so just follow these instructions:

1. Plug in the soldering iron, get it heating while we open up the P2.

2. Peel back the label and unscrew the screw behind it.

3. Slide off the back metal cover; it may be tricky but you should be able to do this easily.

4. Unscrew the PCB so that we can get to the front. It's held on by these two black screws:

5. You should now be able to pull the PCB out (gently) by the ground connection to the casing

(circled above).

6. Once you have the PCB out-ish, you can start to disconnect stuff to make it easier for us to

position the board. Disconnect the power and touch pad connection cables:

7. Once these are unplugged, you can lay the P2 as shown below:

8. Make sure you've located the three connection pad of the jack. Now, take your soldering iron

and press down on any of the three; this will heat up the metal contacts. You can apply solder to

this connection; it will melt and hopefully re-establish the contact. If the iron is heating the PCB

contact, apply solder to the jack contact and vis versa to create the strongest connection. Once

you can melt solder onto the contacts, make sure you have enough to maintain a solid

connection.

● Remember that too much is not good either; BE CAREFUL not to drip solder onto any

other areas of the PCB; this can bridge random contacts on the PCB and will screw up

your P2. If this happens let the solder dry on the board. When it has hardened, carefully try

to remove it with your fingernail or a small-tip screwdriver. This is not guaranteed to work

and may do more harm than good, in some cases.

● It is also important to let the solder dry without too much movement or reheating. It should

only take 5 to 10 seconds.

● If too much solder accumulates on the tip of the iron, wipe it on the wet sponge and apply a

small amount of solder directly to the tip of the iron to prevent oxidation.

This is a before/after shot of reasonably applied solder.

9. Repeat the reflowing of solder to all three contacts. Be careful with the rear contacts, as it's

close to the other areas of the PCB, more so than the two in the front.

10. Now we can add solder to the “inside” of the audio; this seems to bridge all proper connections

securely. Apple heat from the iron tip to one end of the slit and solder to the other until it

melts (does not matter which end). Supplement the solder at your discretion; but remember:

there is such a thing as too much.

11. The hardest part is over and hopefully your P2 is still in working order. It's time to reconnect the

connections to the face and battery of the P2. Plug the power prongs back into where they came

from at the top of the PCB. If you forgot which way it goes, no worries;

Now for the touch pad cable; just slide the ribbon contacts into the hole (also make sure the

latch is not tightened yet, just out). When the cable is in the right position, just push down on

the latch and your connection is secured.

12. Slide the PCB with the USB connector/audio jack down first into their holes and the push down

to align the screw hole. Not much more to do; just re-screw the two PCB screws back in and

make sure the PCB is in properly.

13. We can now close up the P2. Slide/snap the case back on. If it makes a clicking noise when

pressure is applied (this sometimes happens) gently bend the outsides of the metal casing

inwards from the sides to tighten the fit.

14. Re-screw the outside screw and roll the sticker back over this screw hole. You're done!

Hope this guide helped you solve your audio jack problem, thanks for reading!

Video tutorial coming soon at youtube.com/Noobtaculus

http://youtube.com/Noobtaculus