Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review 20151020* F

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Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review 20151020* F-101B Voodoo 1:48 Scale Monogram Model Kit #85-5811 Review

McDonnell Aircraft Corporation developed a new aircraft design in response to the USAF's need for a high-speed bomber escort fighter. The resulting XF-88 had disappointing performance until the twin engines were fitted with afterburners. While the results were good, the program was cancelled. With the outbreak of the Korean War a year later in 1951, a new bomber escort fighter was requested and McDonnell submitted an enlarged XF-88. They won the competition and the aircraft was re-designated F-101 Voodoo. The F-101 was a twin-engine fighter powered by the Pratt & Whitney J57 engine, the same power plant that powered the Air Force's first supersonic fighter - the F-100 Super Sabre, as well as the Navy's first supersonic fighter, the F8U (F-8) Crusader. Unlike the F-100 that may reach speeds over Mach 1, the F-101A fighter could reach Mach 2.25, with the F-101B interceptor capable of Mach 2.4. For the Modeler: This review covers the This Skill Level 2 for the intermediate builder F-101B Voodoo 1:48 Scale Monogram Model Kit #85-5811. It consists of 102 parts on three sprues (molded in Light Gray plastic) including a clear plastic canopy set. It has previously been released in different versions and is still available on internet auction sites. Features include; a detailed cockpit and landing gear, Optional crew figures, Positionable flaps, Positionable canopy, Position-able speed brakes, Rotating weapons bay with choice of either: Two AIM-4 Falcons (GAR-1/GAR-2), Two Genie rockets (AIR-2/MB-1). External stores include: Two external fuel tanks and markings are provided for two aircraft: F-101B-100-MC, 57-0427, 111 FIS, Texas ANG, or the CF-101, 101027, Canadian Armed Forces. The completed dimensions are: Length 12”, Wing Span (extended) 10½”.


Pic1 Pic 2 This is the 1985 Box art showing the Texas Air National guard markings. After opening the box the first thing to be done to the sprue trees of the model is to wash them in warm soapy water and allow them to air dry prior to starting. This process removes any mold release agent that may still be on the plastic that will cause painting, gluing and other problems. So, it’s better to be safe than sorry, and in the long run good preparation will save you time.

Pic 3 Pic 4 The decals will be applied using the Microscale two-part setting system prior to decal placement and sol (a solvent) after blotting the decal into position with either a soft towel or sponge. The second step (Microsol) will soften the decal and allow it to settle and dry adhering to details on the model.

Pic 5 PIC 5A There are nine clear parts on a single clear sprue. My main source of reference for this build will be the Squadron Signal Publications "VOODOO" by Lou Drendel and Paul Stevens.


Pic 6 Pic 7 The first thing I did after washing/air drying the part sprues were to spray them with Tamiya Light Gray primers and set them aside to dry. When they’ve dried go on to Step 1.

Pic 8 Pic 9 This first step in the assembly has the modeler glue the fuel vents into the fuselage followed by gluing the fuselage halves together. Note: I remember this kit being the first one I built where the instructions have you assemble the fuselage before inserting the cockpit tub. Normally you would glue the cockpit tub on the pins molded to one fuselage half then assemble the fuselage halves around the cockpit.


Pic 10 While the fuselage dried I skipped to the cockpit painting/assembly step.

Pic 11 I started by gluing the ejection seats together that consist of three parts: the seat/back, right side and left side frames. I glued them together then painted them using Model Master Paints (MM) as follows using the instruction painting guide: over all seat Dark Ghost Gray, arm/head rests Red, seat cushion Medium Green, seat harness Light Ghost Gray w/Silver Buckles, safety stripes Yellow and Black followed by a black wash using Testors Create FX Black Stain #79312.


Pic 11 The cockpit tub has both front and rear cockpits molded together with the side console switch panels, which I paint Black (MM) then with a Q-tip dipped in thinner (squeezed dry on a rag) pulled lightly over the raised detail removing the Black from the raised portions of the switch/gauge detail leaving them Gray. I did the same for the two instrument panels for the pilot and radar operator position, making them seen easily for detail painting. I painted the pilots joystick and throttle handle along with the radar operators joystick Dark ghost Gray and Black. Note: If you are going to use the Pilot figures you don't need to paint the belts and buckles of the seat harness since the figures will cover them.

Pic 13 With all the cockpit parts painted and dry they were all glued into place and set aside. Note: Even included is the rear cockpit windscreen, which separates the front and the back areas, a detail many kit companies leave out on most two-place jet aircraft kits. Normally, it gets installed toward the end of the build.


Pic 15 Pic 16 Next I painted the air intake duct parts. First I painted the 2 Turbines Aluminum (MM) and the insides of the air ducts Gloss White (MM).Once dried these 4 parts were glued together and set aside. Note: This was also one of the first kits to come with intake ducting and engine faces, though not really that visible in the finished model it's a nice addition to the finished build. Pic 17 The next assembly is the wings so I needed to paint the wheel well and flap areas. The wheel well areas are Interior Green (MM) and flap area and indoor doors are Flat Red (MM). I cleaned up the parts and broke out the Airbrush and sprayed all of the parts and areas that needed Interior Green (MM) and all of the correct parts and areas needing Flat Red. In using the airbrush I got a nice thin coat of paint that dried quickly so I was able to do my detail painting also. The detail painting was done using a Silver Sharpie Marker for all of the hydraulic lines and other areas needing to be silver. I like using the Sharpie, (it takes a little practice) in that it saves time by drying quickly and will readily accept other paint. With the Silver done I used Tamiya Clear Blue for the AN fittings and did a wash of Black to enhance the detail, and allowed them to dry. NOTE: The AN thread is a particular type of fitting used to connect flexible hoses and rigid metal tubing that carry fluid. It is a US military-derived specification that dates back to World War II and stems from a joint standard that was agreed upon by the Army and Navy, hence AN.


Pic 19 Pic 20 The main wing assembly consists of gluing the air intake ducts in place on the lower wing part. NOTE: I painted the inside wall of the wheel wells Interior Green (MM) before the wing halves were glued together. Next, the landing gear door and inner wall parts (the long red/green hatchet looking part) were added. In order to add this part, you must put the pointed end from the bottom of the wing through the opening toward the center of the lower part. Then all you have to do is pull the pointed end toward the outside and once flush with the bottom, it should snap into place and glue can be applied to the inside of the part. Pic 21 Having installed the air ducts and gear door/ side wall in place, it’s time to glue the upper wing halves on. From the picture of the upper wing you can see the detail to the wheel well that were painted earlier that would be harder to paint if this assembly was done prior to painting.

Pic 22 Glue was applied to the lower wing area where the wing parts meet and clothes pins were used to clamp them together until the glue dried.


Pic 23 With main wing assembly done (as shown it pictures) it was set aside to dry. In this photo you see the gear door/side wall (hatchet part) in the final position. You will notice where the red flap area is painted I forgot to paint part of it red; this will be corrected before final assembly.

Pic 25 While looking through the few remaining parts I noticed some large sinks on the small fuselage vent/intake parts so I filled these with modeler’s putty and set them aside.


Pic 27 Pic 28 At this time I painted the front landing gear parts. The wheels were painted Silver (MM) and washed in with a Black wash. The interior walls had been sprayed red and green earlier and detailed (as described), the landing gear strut, retracting arm and back of the clear lights were painted Silver (MM) and also washed. Assembly was begun when paint had dried and with on side wall and the top glued together.


Pic 29 With the top and side wall assembly dried I now glued the Support strut, nose strut and gear lock (Interior green part) to the side wall. Once those were in place I glued the other side wall in place and allowed to dry. Pic 30 Next I glued the nose cone assembly (2 halves) and taped together, then added a bullet (1/2 ounce weight) into the nose as tricycle landing gear aircraft models tend to be light in the nose so they don't sit with the nose wheel on the ground but the tail down and nose wheel up. I added the weight not knowing whether it was needed or not since nothing was noted in the instructions. Better safe-than-sorry!


Pic 31 Pic 32 I continued on to some of the sub-assemblies so they would be painted and ready for when I needed them in the assembly process of the plane. Next, I did the rotating armament door consisting of four parts. The door halves were glued together and clamped with clothes pins until dry then I added the vane and spoiler to their locations on the Genie missile side of the door.

Pic 33 Pic 34 The missiles were now assembled. Each consisted of two parts, The Genie missile was two halves, glued together, clamped with clothes pins and allowed to dry. The Falcon missile consists of a full missile body with fins and another fin and a half, the half section glues the missile into a slot on the armament door. Missiles were painted according to the instructions. Falcons Red, White Silver (MM) and Genies White (MM).


Pic 35 Pic 36 External fuel tanks were next. These too were two part assemblies each, right and left halves. They were glued together, clamped with clothes pins and allowed to dry. When dry they were painted Silver (MM) using an airbrush.

Pic 38 Pic 39 The cockpit tub was now glued into the assembled fuselage from the bottom through the wing opening and glued in place.


Pic 40 The nose landing gear compartment was slid into the opening and glued to the cockpit tub. The nose box fits snugly between the cockpit tub and the lower fuselage and holds the cockpit tub tight to the upper fuselage.

Pic 43 The weighted nose section was un-taped and ready to be added.


Pic 44 The weighted nose section was un-taped and ready to be added. Once glued in place the assembly was set aside and allowed to dry overnight.

Pic 45 Needed a break from the Gray painting and gluing so I decided to do the pilots at this time,. Straight forward and simple though, glue on one arm to each. I did a little modification to the Radar Operator; I glued his arm in a raised position and rotated the hand. For the pilot I had to remove his feet to get him to sit right in the seat.


Pic 46 I painted the crewman as follows using Model Master (mm) paints overall uniform Dark Green FS34079 followed by a light dry brush of Medium Green FS34102. The vest was painted Interior Green FS34151 and the belts Light Gray FS36495. Paint the oxygen mask, shoes and gloves Black and the helmet Gloss White. The final bit painted was the visor. First use Chrome Silver and follow that with a Tamiya Clear Green.


Pic 47 Pic 48 Back now to the AIRCRAFT assembly. Having let the fuselage and interior parts and nose dry well I now added the weapons bay and the wing assembly. The wing assembly has a unique mounting method in that the upper Wing section has a tab that inserts into a slot in the fuselage. I used masking tape to hold the upper wing tight to the fuselage until the glued joint dried well.

Pic 49 Pic 50 With the wings and fuselage mated and dry it was time to assemble the engine exhaust cones, these consisted of four parts each, two shroud halves, after burner ring/cone and the cone and inner flow straightener. These were pre-painted Silver (MM) and washed with a mixture of Gun Metal & black (MM) to bring out the detail, these were then glued into location on the fuselage. Also added at this time were the air scoops, tail hook, and the directional antenna.


Pic 51 Pic 52 The main landing gear were next to be added. First, the tires were sprayed flat black using a spray paint. While the tires dried, the struts were painted Silver (MM) as were the wheel hubs. When dry, a black wash was added to bring out the detail. The landing gear door was painted Interior Green (MM) on the inside and Gray (MM) on the outer. All three parts were then glued together and allowed to dry,

Pic 53 Pic 54 When dry, the gear linkage was glued to the strut and the gear assembly into the wheel well. Then the support strut was added running from the center of the well to the gear strut.

Pic 56 The previously painted flaps were added. They are in the deployed position (although I think that if someone wanted to build them in the retracted mode the triangle tabs could be removed and then the flaps glued in the closed position) and are glued into by locating the small tabs on the forward side in the two small locating slots.


Pic 57 With all the main parts attached I know started the overall finish of the aircraft. It is supposed to be overall Gray FS16473 which I didn't have so I needed to mix my own. Prior to mixing the paint I decided to pre-shade the panel lines. Using my airbrush and Gloss black paint I sprayed all the panel lines and areas I wanted to be shaded. In order to avoid overspray from entering the cockpit area I reduced the air compressor pressure way down as well as using an Extra Fine tip on my Badger 155 AB and sprayed at a less than a 45 degree angle from the bottom along the canopy area to direct the spray away from the opening to avoid having to mask off the opening.

Pic 59 Pic 60 The main color was airbrushed over the shading and looked pretty good.


Pic 60 Pic 61 Now I needed to add a lot of little assemblies to finish the build. First I attached the rear stabilizers. The left photo is of the pre-shaded and right shows it attached in place.

Pic 62 Unfortunately, the overall Gray color wasn't right however, so I mixed another pot of Gray and tried again. This time the results looked good but I had gone to heavy on the Gray and lost most of the shading... well I left it as it turned out which wasn't to bad overall.

Pic 63 Once the Gray was dry I sprayed it with Krylon Crystal Clear Gloss and allowed it to dry before applying decals. The Decals in this kit were from 1985 and had darkened considerably. Since I was building the USAF version I did a test with the Canadian 027 (the smaller ones) decals and amazingly it didn't crack, break, wrinkle or disintegrate using the Microscale two-step process, so everything was looking good. I used the instruction sheet placement and started from the front of the aircraft on the left side and work my way to the back and all went well. Then I did the underside and the upper wings, the last decals were the wing walk outlines, and then it happened! The long thin Black outline decals (you have to paint the inner area Dark Gray) broke into pieces and I couldn't save them. The model needed these areas to look right. I had some ideas to use thin pin striping tape (I didn't have any), clear decal paper and print some (not an option), a Black Sharpie marker and draw them on (possibly, but Sharpies give off an oily rainbow look at different angles), so I decided to paint them on.


Pic 64 Pic 65 With the stabilizers in place I moved down to the two-part speed brake. The well and actuator were painted flat red as was the in brake door. They are attached in the open position.

Pic 66 Pic 67 One thing I did was to mask off the whole area that would have the Black outline and Gray inside and airbrushed it Gloss Black. Once dry, I masked off the outer edges in the approximate width and painted the unmasked Area Dark Ghost Gray (MM). Overall it came out looking good. Note: the Voodoo started service in Natural aluminum but corrosion starting taking its toll on the metal so the USAF painted them in overall Gray (some were done in Camouflage but that was mainly Recon variants and for Vietnam deployment) and they stayed in service until April of 1971 so they ended up getting patch painted for repairs, etc., so I added different Gray panels on the model (sometimes they were sprayed on and other times they were painted by hand so they were seldom a paint matching aircraft in service). At this time the whole aircraft wash sprayed with Krylon Crystal Clear Flat.


Pic 68 I added the Falcon missiles to their side of the weapons bay door and allowed them to dry.

Pic 69 Pic 70 The external fuel tanks were now attached and the model was allowed to sit overnight for all attached parts to dry well.


Pic 71 I then rotated the door and attached the Genie missiles in place and allowed those to dry. When I went to rotate the door to take a photo of the Falcons in the ready position but the Genies wouldn’t clear the fuselage sides. Needless to say, I pulled the Genies off and rotated the bay for the pictures, and they shall remain off. So, the novelty of being able to show different weapons in a deployable position was good one, it just doesn't work out. Pic 72 While the rest of the parts dried I hand brushed the canopy frames. The front windscreen frames were painted Insignia Yellow (MM) and the middle lower portion Flat Black (MM). The main canopy has two painted frames; the inner one is thin and done in Insignia Yellow (MM) and the outer in Gray (MM). I also glued the rear view mirrors to the inner canopy rails, the bulkhead paint Black (MM) to the rear of the canopy and the hood stowage tube to the right side of the bulk head.


Pic 74 With the canopy parts drying I took the time to add the pilot and radar operator to their positions. I wanted to take these pics with the canopy shown in the closed position. Note: as stated in the section on painting the crew I had removed the pilots feet in order to make him seat correctly.

Pic 75 Pic 76 All the canopy parts were dry-fitted and glued together using Testors Clear Window Glue. This has got to be the best glue for clear parts on any model; it has a fine tip applicator and dries more clear than most other glues. The only drawback is that it may take a while to dry, but it’s well worth the wait.


Pic 999 Overall: My thoughts on this kit were somewhat mixed. To the good was the unique cockpit tub attaching, the multiple open compartments and detail- speed bakes, flaps, wheel wells, weapons bay & Canopy. There are very few things I didn't like and those were the rotating weapons door and the position-able stabilizers, I don't like a lot, if any, moving parts on my kits I build static builds and don't want to give fingers a chance to try and remove parts. For this kit, the good things far outweighed the bad. The parts fit well and there was very little clean up of mold lines and flash. As this was an early issue the decals had their problems but nothing that couldn't be overcome and the more recent issues won't have the vintage markings. Overall, I would rate this as an intermediate builder for someone with a little experience under their belt.

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Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review 20151020* F