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  NAME-SUPRIYA KIRVE CLASS-B TECH 3 RD YEAR SUBJECT-MAN MADE FIBER PRODUCTION TOPIC-SMART TEXTILES BY CHEMICAL FINISHING 

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NAME-SUPRIYA KIRVE

CLASS-B TECH 3RD YEAR

SUBJECT-MAN MADE FIBER

PRODUCTION

TOPIC-SMART TEXTILES BYCHEMICAL FINISHING 

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Definition and classification of smart textiles 

Smart textiles are defined as textiles that can sense and react to

environmental conditions or stimuli from mechanical, thermal,

chemical, electrical or magnetic sources. According to

functional activity smart textiles can be classified in three

categories :

Passive Smart Textiles: The first generations of smart textiles,

which can only sense the environmental conditions or stimulus,are called Passive Smart Textiles.

Active Smart Textiles: The second generation has both

actuators and sensors. The actuators act upon the detected signal

either directly or from a central control unit. Active smart

textiles are shape memory, chameleonic, water-resistant andvapour permeable (hydrophilic/non porous), heat storage,

thermo regulated, vapour absorbing, heat evolving fabric and

electrically heated suits.

Ultra Smart Textiles: Very smart textiles are the third

generation of smart textiles, which can sense, react and adopt

themselves to environmental conditions or stimuli. A very smart

or intelligent textile essentially consists of a unit, which works

like the brain, with cognition, reasoning and activating

capacities. The production of very smart textiles is now a reality

after a successful marriage of traditional textiles and clothing

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technology with other branches of science like material science,

structural mechanics, sensor and actuator technology, advance

processing technology, communication, artificial intelligence,

biology, etc.

OBJECTS OF FINISHING

 Chemical finishes applied to fabrics to enhance

performance and specific end uses.

 Add to product cost & value.

 May be invisible or beyond consumer perception.

 Many topical some wet processed in order to facilitateabsorption of finish into fiber.

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New coating techniques and materials are continually

widening the areas in which textile materials can be employed

and the environments which they can withstand. New finishes

such as nano- coatings are complementing existing coatings,while developments in coating and laminating technology

improve efficiencies and produce materials able to withstand

extreme environments.

A sol – gel based surface treatment for preparation

of water repellent antistatic textiles

A surface treatment is described for preparation of 

hydrophobic sol – gel coatings that simultaneously offer antistatic

properties for an appropriate finishing of textiles and refinement

of polymer foils. Sol – gel based formulations are modified with

both hydrophilic and hydrophobic components simultaneously.

Hydrophobic components are, e.g., alkoxy silanes modified withalkyl chains while the hydrophilic ones are amino-functionalized

alkoxy silanes. The basic idea is that due to an enrichment of 

hydrophobic groups at the solid/air interface the surface of the as

prepared coatings will be hydrophobic while the deeper region

will be more hydrophilic.

Textiles finished with these coatings exhibit sufficient

water repellence and simultaneously absorb sufficient amounts

of humidity in the deeper areas of the coating guaranteeingantistatic properties. This concept offers interesting approaches

for the preparation of multifunctional surface coatings for

focusing on combining water repellence with antistatic

properties for textile materials.

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CONDUCTIVE FIBRES

The idea of electronic yarns and textiles has appeared for quite

some time, but their properties often do not meet practical

expectations. In addition to chemical/mechanical durability and

high electrical conductivity, important materials qualifications

include weavablity, wearability, light weight, and ―smart‖

functionalities.

A simple process of transforming general commodity cotton

threads into intelligent e-textiles using a polyelectrolyte-based

coating with carbon nano tubes (CNTs). Efficient charge

transport through the network of nano tubes (20 Ω/cm) and the

possibility to engineer tunneling junctions make them promising

materials for many high-knowledge-content garments. Along

with integrated humidity sensing, we demonstrate that

CNT−cotton threads can be used to detect albumin, the key

protein of blood, with high sensitivity and selectivity. Not

withstanding future challenges, these proof-of-concept

demonstrations provide a direct pathway for the application of 

these materials as wearable bio monitoring and telemedicine

sensors, which are simple, sensitive, selective, and versatile. Wearable computers can now merge seamlessly into ordinary

clothing. Using various conductive textiles, data and power

distribution as well as sensing circuitry can be incorporated

directly into wash-and-wear clothing. 

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Conductive surfaces on woven fabrics were obtained by knife-

over-roll coating in laboratory small-scale equipment and

continuously in a pilot plant. Commercially available inherently

conductive polymers (polyaniline, polytiophene andpolypyrrole) were mixed with an acrylic binder polymer, and

coated on a polyester fabric. The concentration of the conductive

polymer and number of coated layers were varied with the aim

to reach conductivity on a surface which could withstand aging

and mechanical stress.

Conductivity is a main requirement in smart and electronic

textiles, and there are several options for achieving this . Metal

fibres in the form of thin metal filaments can be used, but these

are brittle, heavier and more difficult to process than

conventional textile fibres. Coating of textile fibres with metallic

salts is another option, but these have limited stability duringlaundering. The development of intrinsically conductive

polymers (ICP) has opened up new possibilities for conductive

textile materials. These polymers are conjugated polymerswhich

electrical conductivity is dramatically increased by doping [2].

In the doping a small amount of chemical agent is added,and the

electronic structure is changed. The doping process is reversible,and involves a redox process. Conductive polymers are provided

both as solid compounds or liquid dispersions or solutions. The

liquid versions can easily be applied onto a textile substrate by

coating methods.

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Polyester fabrics have been coated with polypyrrole (PPy) for

obtaining heat generation textiles. The fabric could generate heat

when a voltage was applied to the fabric. In-situ polymerisation

of the conductive polymer on the textile surface has also beenreported. Poly-3,4-ethylenedioxythiophene (PEDOT) and PPy

have been deposited by chemical and electrochemical oxidation

on a polyester textile. These textiles showed also decrease in

conductivity upon stretching, thus enabling the textiles to be

used as strain sensors.By applying conductive coatings on

textiles, a novel and technically interesting textile materialshould be obtained.

Coating formulations

Each ICP was blended with the acrylate binder, thickener and

pH-regulator according to a proprietary recipie. The amount of 

conductive polymer dispersions was in the range from 74 to 78

wt-%. This corresponded to 1 wt-% polythiophene, 3.7 wt-%polypyrrole and 4.7 wt-% polyaniline, due to the variations in

material composition.

These formulations were denoted Sample series A.

A series of samples with same content of conductive polymers

were then made. with the amount was 1 wt-% conductive

polymer, the exact amount was estimated by determining by

freeze drying the actual content of the conductive polymer in the

supplied dispersions. This gave for Panipol 6,2 wt-%, for

Eeonomer 5,3 wt-% and for Baytron 1,3 wt-%.

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These formulations were denoted Sample series B.

COATING PROCEDURE

Approximately 20 cm x 30 cm polyester fabrics were coated

knife-over-roll in a laboratory coating equipment.

Figure 1. (a) A knife-over-roll lab coater. (b) Large

scale continuous knife-over-roll coater.

To be able to see how the coating paste and the fabric interacted

during continuous large scale coating a 50 m fabric of 50 cm

width was coated in a pilot scale continuous knife-over-roll

coater. The trial involved different coating thicknesses and

number of coatings. For the larger scale coating the Panipol W

was selected, due to limitation of material costs. The binder was

of acrylic type.

CONCLUSION

Conductivities on woven fabric can be obtained by knife-over-

roll coating on one side. The roughness of the surface caused no

problem to get a conductive surface, but the stress on the fabric

during coating caused unevenness especially when several

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layers where made. The different layers diffused into each other

as the curing was left after the last drying step.

SOME OF THE SMART FINISHES

APPERENCE RETENTION FINISHES

Light-stabilizing —  

apply light-stabilizing or ultraviolet-absorbing compounds to

fabrics to minimize damage from light exposure.

pilling-resistant —  

minimize the formation of tiny balls of fiber bits on a fabric’ssurface.

anti-yellowing —  

COMFORT RELATED FINISHES

water-repellent finishes —  

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resists wetting; depends upon surface tension & fabric

penetrability; generally calendared & then chemically applied.

waterproof fabric —  

will not wet regardless of length & force of exposure to water.

moisture management finishes —  

remove sweat from skin’s surface & help cool body.

porosity-control —  

used to limit penetration of fabric by air.

water-absorbent —  

increase moisture absorbency of fabric & its drying time.

ultra-violet absorbent —  

incorporate chemical compounds or nanoparticles that absorb

energy in UV region of electromagnetic spectrum.

ANTISTATIC FINISHES

•  controlled with humidity in natural-fiber fabrics

•  with thermoplastic fibers controlled by,

•  improving surface conductivity

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•  attracting water molecules

•  neutralizing electrostatic charge

Fabric softeners —  

improve hand of harsh textiles

Phase-change finishes —  

minimize heat flow through a fabric — insulate against

temperature extremes.

BIOLOGICAL CONTROL FINISHES

Insect- and moth-control —  

Insecticides, insect-repellent .

moth control usually by chemical (Permethrin) at scouring ordyeing stage.

Insect control methods:

•  cold storage — decreases insect activity, generally not

practical for consumer.

•  odors — mothballs; poison and should be used with caution.

•  stomach poisons — fluorides & silicofluorides used for dry-

cleanable wool.

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•  chemical additives — in dye bath permanently alter

fiber; make it unpalatable by larvae; may yellow or

cause color loss.

BIOLOGICAL CONTROL FINISHES

ROT PROOF FINISH

used primarily on technical products used outdoors to improve

durability & longevity.

ANTIMICROBIAL

leachable (not bonded to fiber)

nonleachable (bonded to fiber or used as additives)

•  Inhibit growth of microbes

•  Reduce or prevent odor

•  Prevent decay and damage from perspiration

•  control spread of disease

  Reduce risk of infection after injury.

  Biological-control finishes.

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MICRO ENCAPSULATED

smart textile finish that incorporates a water-soluble or other

material in a tiny capsule form may contain fragrance, insectrepellents, disinfectants, cleaning agents, cooling/warming

chemicals, lotions, oils to relieve stress, deodorants, activated

charcoal, etc.

SAFETY RELATED FINISHES

 Fire retardance —  

resistance to combustion of a material when tested under

specified conditions

 flame resistance —  

property of a material whereby flaming combustion is

prevented, terminated, or inhibited by following application of a

flaming or nonflaming source of ignition, with or withoutsubsequent removal of ignition source.

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 Flammability

characteristics of material that pertain to its relative ease of ignition and relative ability to sustain combustion.

flame-retardant finishes —  

•  function in variety of ways: block flame’s access or 

extinguish flame.

•  can be durable or non-durable.

•  less expensive than flame-resistant fibers.

•  safety-related finishes.

•  liquid-barrier —  

•  protect wearer from liquids penetrating through fabric — 

important to health care professionals, agricultural &

chemical workers.

•  light-reflecting — 

 

•  used on fabrics to increase visibility of wearers in low-light

conditions.

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Polymeric ―smart‖ coatings have been developed that are

capable of both detecting and removing hazardous nuclear and

heavy metal contaminants from contaminated surfaces. These

coatings consist of strippable polymeric compositions containingblends of polymers, copolymers and additives that can be

brushed or sprayed onto a surface as a solution or dispersion in

aqueous media. Upon drying, these coatings form strong films

that can easily be peeled or stripped from the surface. When

applied to a contaminated surface, these coatings display

responsive behavior. Areas of contamination are indicated by acolor change. As the coatings dry, the contaminants are drawn

into and fixed in the polymer matrix. Subsequent removal of the

coating with entrapped contaminants results in some degree of 

surface decontamination. Here we report the development and

investigation of a smart, decontaminating coating developed for

uranium and plutonium.

Antibacterial coatings using plasmaAim:

- deposition of durable coatings that kill bacteria on

contactSubstrates:

- type:clothing (medical, sportswear)

- material:

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typically polyester Agents:

- silver based, ammonium chloride based

Methods:- atmospheric plasma/corona deposition

- atmospheric plasma jet

- low pressure plasma deposition

- addition of nebulised/vaporised liquid agent

(“plasma mist”)

SMART BREATHABLE COTTON

Smart breathable cotton fabrics were made using a temperature-

sensitive copolymer - poly( N-tert -butylacrylamide-ran-

acrylamide:: 27: 73). The cotton fabric was coated using an

aqueous solution (20 wt%) of the copolymer containing 1,2,3,4-

butanetetracarboxylic acid as a cross-linker (50 mol%) and

sodium hypophosphite (0.5 wt%) as a catalyst, followed by

drying (120°C, 5 min) and curing (200°C, 5 min). The integrity

of the cross-linked coatings to the fabric was observed to be

excellent. The coatings after integration to the cotton substrateretained temperature-sensitive swelling behavior and showed a

transition in the temperature range of 15-40°C. Below 15°C, the

coatings swell by 800% while above 40°C they deswell to a

swelling percentage of less than 50% (on the basis of dry

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weight). The transition to swelling was completed in about 20

min while deswelling was quicker in 2-3 min. The response was

found to be reversible and stable to repeated cycles of transition.

The coated fabrics showed a temperature-responsive watervapor transmission rate (WVTR). The WVTR values of the

responsive (copolymer coated) and the nonresponsive

(poly(acrylamide) coated) breathable fabric were measured as a

percentage (transmission percentage) of control uncoated

substrate. The transmission percentage at 20% relative humidity

for the copolymer coated fabrics was found to change across thetransition temperature (15-45°C) from 58 to 94% compared to

the poly(acrylamide)-coated fabrics which changed only from

70 to 94%, showing a clear response to changing environmental

temperature.

SMART TEXTILES

Flash dried fabrics

finishing technology was developed to provide a treatment that

retains water resistance on the face of a fabric and increases

wicking on the back. The two functions are truly separated

within the fabric, which remains highly breathable.A special

process to apply a hydrophilic finish on the back that wicks

perspiration away from the body, spreading it over the fabric,

and evaporating it quickly on the face. It also has a hydrophobic

finish that repels water and dirt.

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The fabric dries six to eight times faster than untreated fabric.

THERMAL SENSITIVITY

SmartSkin hydrogel is a new technology involving a

hydrophilic/hydrophobic copolymer, which is embedded in an

open-cell foam layer bonded to the inside of a closed-cell

neoprene layer in a composite wet suit fabric with nylon or

nylon/Lycra outer and inner layers. SmartSkin absorbs cold

water that has flushed into the suit and expands to close

openings at the hands, feet and neck, preventing more water

from entering. Water trapped inside the suit heats up upon body

contact. If the water warms up past a transition temperature

determined by the proportion of hydrophilic to hydrophobic

components, the hydrogel releases water and contracts, allowing

more water to flush through the suit. This passive system

constantly regulates the internal temperature — no batteries ormechanical action are needed.

ANTI MICROBIAL

An anti-microbial technology has been developed by which it

embeds AgIO, a silver-based inorganic zeolite, in a solution-

dyed polyester Fossfibre® bicomponent fiber. Fossfibre with

AgION is suitable for all textile applications in which anti-

microbial protection The bicomponent fibers in Fossfibre are

specially designed so that AgION is found only on the sheath,

providing controlled release for optimum exposure to the

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destructive bacteriais desired. The silver ions from the ceramic

compound are released at a slow and steady rate. Ambient

moisture in the air causes low-level release that effectively

maintains an anti-microbial surface. As the humidity increasesand the environment becomes ideal for bacteria growth, more

silver is released.

PROTECTION AGAINST THE ELEMENTS

1)Shower proofingPrafffin wax, emulsified with a fungitve surfactants and in

mixture with aluminum or zirconium salts, provides a semi

durable treatments for textiles.slightly higher wash durability

being exhibited on cotton then on synthetics due to ionic

attraction of heavy metals to the cellulose.polysiloxane

(silicone) based repellents offer good general durability with

softness and drape but can often show an undesirable oily handle

on synthetics, with greater tendenct to attract oily stains then

flouro chemicals based finishes.micro porous or hydrophilic

breathable ie.(maintaining useful moisture transmission rate forcomfort )Membranes are available for laminations as drop liner,

or directly on to the main outer rain wear fabric for foul weather

wear,their jigh resistance to water penetration renders the

garments largely water proof and wind proof.

INDUSTRIAL ENVIRONMENT PROTETION

The chemical industries are the business that have thegreatest need for garments with protective treatments to

repel both water and oil based chemicals .one should

expect the higher concentration of flour chemical applied.

Compare to that use for eg. in shower proof rain wear to

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ensure the required repellency performance and durability

standards for industrial protective wear.Resistace to

penetration, for any dynamic liquid contact or higher

pressure would still depend on tightly wovenconstructions, proofed coating, breathable laminates or

use of these as drop loner in the garment.

Protection for emergency services

FR finished fabrics used in protective gear for riot police And

some firemen’s tunics calls for particularly high oils repellency

levels. Because such finishes are for garments employed in lifethreaten situations. it is also important to ensure very good

durability to dry clean or landering.Incorporation of blocked

isocyante , a formaldehyde condensation resin or both is

required.

BIO-MIMICS

Fibers have been developed that can quickly change their color,

hue, depth of shade or optical transparency by application of an

electrical or magnetic field could have applications in coatings,

additives or stand alone fibers. Varying the electrical or

magnetic field changes the optical properties of certain

oligomeric and molecular moieties by altering their absorption

coefficients in the visible spectrum as a result of changes in theirmolecular structure.

The change in color is due to the absence of specific

wavelengths of light; it varies due to structural changes with the

application of an electromagnetic field.

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COOLING-WARMING SYSTEM

A new high-tech vest has been developed to help keep soldiers,firefighters, etc. alive in the searing temperatures of deserts,

mines and major fires. The vest uses a personal cooling system

(PCS), which is based on heat pipe technology which works by

collecting body heat through vapor filled cavities in a vest worn

on the body. The heat is then transferred via a flexible heat pipe

to the atmosphere with the help of an evaporative cooling heat

exchanger. The heat exchanger is similar in principle to a bush

fridge where a cold cloth is put over a container and the

temperature drop caused by evaporation keeps the food cool. It

is designed to be worn by personnel underneath NBC (nuclear,

biological and chemical) clothing, body armor and other

protective clothing.

TISSUE ENGINEERING

Tissue engineering uses living cells and their extracellular

components with textile-based biomaterial scaffolds to develop

biological tissues for human body repair. The scaffolds provide

support for cellular attachment and subsequent controlled

proliferation into predefined tissue shapes. Such an engineering

approach would solve the severe shortage problem associated

with organ transplants. Textile-based scaffolds have been used

for such tissue engineering purposes. The most frequently used

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textile-based scaffolds are non-woven structures, preferably of 

biodegradable materials, because then there is no permanent

foreign-body tissue reaction toward the scaffolds and, over

time, there is more volume space into which the engineered

tissue can grow.

APPLICATIONS

One of the main applications of membranes is in the field of 

sportswear for the manufacture of breathable and impermeable

clothes. Indeed, with a simple system of membrane, fabrics

possessing an excellent water exchange are obtained with a good

elimination of the sweat at the garment interface (breathability)

and the creation of an external barrier with extreme water

repellence.

For example, the best provider of textile membranes is Gore that

manufactures unique wafer-thin microporous membrane (Gore

tex), which contains over 9 millions pores per square inch. Each

pore is 20,000 times smaller than a water droplet, yet some 700

times bigger than a moisture vapour molecule. This gives the

fabric the excellent levels of waterproofness and breathability

that the brand is famous for. Gore-Tex is a bi-component

membrane, meaning that it is made up of two parts.

The main part (that you see) is made from expanded

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polytetrafluoroethylene (ePTFE for short). This is then

combined with an oleophobic (oil hating) layer that protects the

membrane from the natural oils that the human body emits,

insect repellents, cosmetics etc. The outer face of the Gore-Texfabric is coated with a hydrophobic DWR (Durable Water

Repellency) treatment which encourages surface water to bead

up and run off, improving the wet weather performance of the

garment and promoting breathability by preventing wetting-out

of the outer face.

Another successful application of the membranes in intelligent

textiles is the Lotus effect. Lotus effect results in an

ultrahydrophobic finishing (membranes or coating), which

provides repellence of the aqueous products and also of the oleic

product. The result is that the garment does not have an affinity

with any products so that it cannot be dirtied. Another name of 

this property is self-cleaning garments. Several commercial

products exist which use membrane of polytetrafluoroethylene

derivatives that present an analogy with the Lotus effect.

CONCLUSION

 The range and variety of high performance textiles that

have been developed to meet present and future

requirements are now considerable.

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 Textile materials are now combined, modified and tailored

in ways far beyond the performance limit of fibers drawn

from the silkworm cocoon, grown in the fields, or spun

from the fleece of animals. 

REFERENCE

•  http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:http:

 //www.acteco.org/Acteco/training_torino/5_Vetter_Alcan_C

eramis.pdf 

•  http://scholar.google.co.in/scholar?q=Functionalization+of+t

extiles+by+inorganic

•  http://www.woodheadpublishing.com/en/book.aspx?bookID

=1412

•  Woodhead publication-smart textiles by coating and

laminating by William smith.

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