Quality Assurance Product Inspection & Testing Capabilitiesliteleather.com/wp-content/.../12/Quality-Assurance-Product-Inspect... · footwear and leather. The SATRA systems are global

Quality Assurance Product Inspection

&

Testing Capabilities

Prepared on 09/15/2014

1

The International Standards

are strategic tools and

guidelines, designed for

companies to approach a

various demanding challenges

of modern business.

Specifically, the ISO 9000

family is a series of standards,

developed and published by

the ISO. These standards are

currently the most widely

known and most effective. The

ISO 9000 has functioned in

various industries and

organizations as a guide to

quality products, service and

management.

With the help of the ISO

9001:2008, ISA Industrial Ltd.

works to ensure that their

customers continue to receive

consistent, quality products

and services.

2

An independent research

and testing organization

established in 1919. It has

technical facilities in the

UK and China serving

customers throughout the

world.

SATRA is a leading

technical authority for

footwear and leather.

The SATRA systems are

global standards for quality

and production efficiency

The Management System

of our internal laboratories

along with our lab

technicians have all been

accredited by SATRA,

each having all met the

requirements for SATRA

Laboratory Accreditation

Scheme for various test

methods.

3

Dynamic Water Penetration - Maeser

Test Method Name

ASTM D2099 – SATRA TM 34

Standard Test Methods

Maeser test replicates the repeated flexing of the footwear upper

under conditions of water exposure. It is an indication of the

suitability of the leather to resist the conditions of dynamic shoe

flexing, and actual waterproof performance of the shoe.

Technical description

MIL-PRF-3122J

NCTRF PD 02-07

CR/PD 09-03

Applicable Specifications

MIL-DTL-32237B

GL-PD-10-01C

4

Static Water Absorption of Leather

Test Method Name

ASTM D6015


MIL-PRF-3122J

NCTRF PD 02-07

CR/PD 09-03


MIL-DTL-32237B

GL-PD-10-01C

Static water absorption is an indication of the leather ability to

repel water, avoiding the effects of acting like a “sponge” when

exposed to water.


5

Leather pH

Test Method Name

ASTM D2810 – ISO 4045


pH of the aqueous extract of leather is an indication of the

presence of strong acid/alkali that could compromise chemical

safety in use and/or performance.


MIL-PRF-3122J

NCTRF PD 02-07

CR/PD 09-03


MIL-DTL-32237B

GL-PD-10-01C

6

Hexane Extraction from Leather

Test Method Name



Hexane extraction is an indication of the quantity of oils, fats,

waxes, etc, that define the characteristics of each type of

leather. High values of extractables may compromise the

construction of the shoe, while very low values may indicate

poor lubrication between leather fibers making the leather brittle

and prone to cracking.


MIL-PRF-3122J

NCTRF PD 02-07

CR/PD 09-03


MIL-DTL-32237B

GL-PD-10-01C

7

Baumann Tear Strength Test / Slit Tear Resistance

Test Method Name

ASTM D2212 – TM 162


Tear strength, as all mechanical properties of leather, is an

indication of the degree of tanning of the hide, besides indicating

proper performance in shoe construction.


MIL-PRF-3122J

NCTRF PD 02-07

CR/PD 09-03


MIL-DTL-32237B

GL-PD-10-01C

8

Bleeding Resistance to Water

Test Method Name

ASTM D6012


Bleeding resistance is an indication of potential color transfer to

other materials under wet conditions when wearing the shoe.


MIL-PRF-3122J

NCTRF PD 02-07

CR/PD 09-03


MIL-DTL-32237B

GL-PD-10-01C

9

Total Ash in Leather

Test Method Name

ASTM D2617


Ash content is an indication of the inorganic matter present in

the leather, as a measurement of the quality of the

tanning/finishing.


MIL-PRF-3122J

NCTRF PD 02-07

CR/PD 09-03


MIL-DTL-32237B

GL-PD-10-01C

10

Chromic Oxide in Leather

Test Method Name

ASTM D2807


Chromium oxide content is the key measurement to verify the

tanning degree of the leather (chromium tanned). Low values of

Chromium oxide are an indication of poor tanning of the hide.


MIL-PRF-3122J

NCTRF PD 02-07

CR/PD 09-03


MIL-DTL-32237B

GL-PD-10-01C

11

Oil/Water Repellency

Test Method Name

AATCC TM118 (mod.)


A drop test with different concentrations of Isopropyl alcohol

gives an indication of the ability of the leather to repel and not to

absorb oils or water from its surface.


MIL-DTL-32237B


12

Break/Pipiness of finished leather

Test Method Name

SATRA TM36


SATRA Break scale is a method to assist with measurement of the tendency of the grain of the leather to form wrinkles when bended inwards. It is a simple method to eliminate subjective judgment as much as practically possible.


NCTRF PD 02-07


13

Leather Permeability to Water Vapor

Test Method Name

ASTM D5052


Common in all shoe upper material specs


Water Vapor Permeability is a desired feature of upper leather

which at proper values will ensure moisture level into the shoe

will not build up and will “breathe” through the upper.


14

Flexibility and Adhesion of Finish Leather

Test Method Name

ASTM D6182




Bally flex is an indication of the finishing resistance to crack and

crease when repeatedly flexed, emulating the flexing of the

actual use of the shoe.


15

Color Fastness to Crocking

Test Method Name





Color transfer to rubbing is a measurement of the tendency of

surface color to transfer to other components by contact or

friction.


16

Tensile Strength and Extension at Leather Break

Test Method Name

SATRA TM 43


Tensile strength and elongation, as all mechanical properties of

leather, is an indication of the degree of tanning of the hide,

besides indicating proper performance in shoe construction.




17

Lastometer Ball Burst Test

Test Method Name

SATRA TM 24




Lastometer is a very good indication of the ability of leather grain

to withstand lasting operation during shoe making without

cracks.


18

Fish Scale Tear Test

Test Method Name

Ref. ASTM D2212 – SATRA TM 162




Fish scale is a quick manual measurement in production of the

leather resistance to tear, comparable to the Baumann tear

strength.


19

Cross Hatch Tape Test

Test Method Name

SATRA TM 406


Cross hatching and applying adhesive tape on the leather

finishing is a quick measurement in production of the adhesion

of the finishing to the grain of the leather.




20

Leather Softness and Thickness

Test Method Name

IUP36 – SATRA TM 1




Softness and thickness are non destructive test that indicate the

adequacy of the leather to the specified customer orders.


21

Color Check

Test Method Name

PHILIPS D65 FLUORESCENT TUBES

GRETAG MACBETH D65 FLUORESCENT TUBES

Equipped with

All customer approved color masters and working standards


Color evaluation is a key control point of appearance of leather.

In ISA we consider and keep under control the three elements

that result in color visual perception: material, incident light and

the color assessor.


22

Color Check - Spectralight III

Test Method Name

D65 INCANDESCENT FILTERED TUNGSTEN

TL84 FLOURESCENT TUBES

COOL WHITE FLOURESCENT TUBES

Equipped with

All customer approved color masters and working standards


Color evaluation is a key control point of appearance of leather.

In ISA we consider and keep under control the three elements

that result in color visual perception: material, incident light and

the color assessor


23

Farnsworth-Munsell 100 Hue Test

Test Method Name

Chips in 4 Series of Hue Pairs


Applicable to all personnel approving colors. Maximum score

acceptable: 40


Visual test intended to measure the ability of personnel to

discriminate small steps in hue variation, across the entire color

spectrum. The test can detect personnel with low color

discrimination and avoid the risk of poor color matching and

judgment.


24

SATRA Sorting

Test Method Name

SATRA Leather Assessment




All our finished leather sorters are certified by Satra annually as

competent to perform Satra leather assessment method.


25

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Quality Assurance Product Inspection & Testing Capabilitiesliteleather.com/wp-content/.../12/Quality-Assurance-Product-Inspect... · footwear and leather. The SATRA systems are global