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Product Environmental Footprint -
Development of the T-shirt PEFCR
Sandrine PESNEL, Jérôme PAYET
LCM, Bordeaux
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Agenda
• Environmental Footprint pilot phase
• T-shirt pilot
• PEFCR development process– Scope definition
– Definition of the representative product
– PEF screening
– Draft PEFCR
– Next steps
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Environmental Footprint pilot phase
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• Call for volunteers– 1st wave: 14 PEFCRs (T-shirt…), 2 OEFSRs
– 2nd wave: 11 PEFCRs
• Objectives– Test the process for the development of PEFCRs and OEFSRs
– Facilitate the implementation of environmental impact methods (SMEs)
– Test different approaches for verification systems
– Experiment several approaches to B2C and B2B communication
• Several initiatives on product environmentalfootprint– Lack of consistency, barrier
for the circulation of green products
• European Commission:– To homogenize the different
methodologies
– LCA based methods: PEF and OEF
– Between 2013 and 2016, organization of an experimental phase
T-shirt pilot
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Retailers Producers
LCA consultant
(coordinator)
Public authorities
Swiss federal office of the environment
Teintures et Apprêts Danjoux
Les Tissages de Charlieu
French Ministry for Ecology, Sustainable Development and Energy
ADEME
PEFCR development process
• PEFCR: Product Environmental FootprintCategory Rules
• Progress of T-shirt pilot
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PEF screening
Draft PEFCR
PEFCR supporting studies
Scope definition
Definition of the representativeproduct
Confirmation of benchmarck and determination of performance classes
Final PEFCR
Scope definition• Analysis of existing PCRs
– Study of the alignment of PCRs with PEF guide (procedural, data and rule alignment)
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• Definition of the scope– Functional unit
• What?, how much?, how well? and how long?
• “One T-shirt fit to be worn, once a week, and cleaned during one year”
– CPA code: C14.14.3 “T-shirts, singlets and other vests, knitted or crocheted”
– Definition of the product category
• “ Apparel products that are fit to dress the upper body, mainly consisting of a knitted fabric (at least 51% of the product weight), without complete opening (from top to bottom) on the chest. Knitted fabric is produced by circular or tubular knitting with thin gauge (higher than 16) and its surface density is less than 240 g/m² ”
Def. of the representative product• What is the RP?
– ‘Average’ product existing in the EU market
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• T-shirt application:– 5 RP: men, women, children 2-7 years old, children 8-14
years old, babies (weight and composition differences)
• Methodology– Virtual product /real product
– At least 1 RP per product category
– Definition of the life cycle of RPs
– 2 types of data:
• Market data: composition (77% cotton), sewing location, end-of-life…
• Real data (from TS): finishing, packaging, % of plane for transport…
– Modelling of use phase: consumer behaviour (drying, lifetime…)
PEF screening• Use?
– Support the PEFCR development (for data collection and data quality priorities)
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Preliminaryindication
• Methodology– LCA of the RPs + sensitivity analyses
– Identification of:
• Environmental hotspots
• Most relevant processes and life cycle stages
Criteriadefined by the EC
• Most relevant impact categories
• Data quality needs
• Definition of the benchmark for the product category in scope
Production
of raw
materials
Production
of T-shirt
End of
life
Use
phase
Knitting Dyeing
Sewing
Washing Drying Ironing
T-shirt end
of life
Cardboard
end of life
Production of
natural fibres
Production of
synthetic
materials
Production of
regenerated
fibres
Transport
of the final
product
Pastic bag
end of life
Packaging
T
Transport: truck, boat, and/or plane
Transport to warehouse
Spinning
Transport to shops
Distribution Customer travel
PrintingFinishing
T
Accessories
T T
TT
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Most relevant life cycle stages
Production
of raw
materials
Production
of T-shirt
End of
life
Use
phase
Knitting Dyeing
Sewing
Washing Drying Ironing
T-shirt end
of life
Cardboard
end of life
Production of
natural fibres
Production of
synthetic
materials
Production of
regenerated
fibres
Transport
of the final
product
Pastic bag
end of life
Packaging
T
Transport: truck, boat, and/or plane
Transport to warehouse
Spinning
Transport to shops
Distribution Customer travel
Most relevant
processes
Most relevant PEF impact categories
- Climate change- Particulate
matter- Freshwater
eutrophication- Marine
eutrophication- Resource
depletion
PrintingFinishing
T
Accessories
T T
TT
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Most relevant life cycle stages
Draft PEFCR
• Methodology:– “Data requirements
in Product Environmental Footprint Category Rules (PEFCRs)” (v0.3) 11
Consultation
in September
• Main content: – PEFCR scope (selection of the indicators)
– Data quality requirements
– Data collection
– Identification of specific and generic data
– Benchmark and classes of environmental performance
– Reporting, disclosure and communication (PEF label, websites of companies)
– Verification
– Dataset needs (data collection / data quality)
• Relevant / non relevant processes
• Situations 1/2/3
Next steps• Supporting studies:
– At least 3 PEF studies
– Application of the PEFCR
– On existing products as currently sold in the European market
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Consultation
• Confirmation of benchmark and determinationof performance classes:– Based on the RP and the supporting studies
• Final PEFCR:– Review of the final PEFCR by external reviewers
– Approval of final PEFCR by Steering Committee
Thank you for your attention.
www.cycleco.eu
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