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Numerical and Physical Experiments of Wave Focusingin Short- Crested Seas
Félicien Bonnefoy, Pierre Roux de Reilhac, David Le Touzéand Pierre Ferrant
Ecole Centrale de Nantes, France
Rogue Waves’2004, Brest
Topic of the talk
Generation of deterministic wavepackets in a numerical or physicalwave basin
•Wavemaker motion
•Fully-nonlinear waves
•In 2 and 3 dimensions
(mono- and multidirectional)
Numerical tool:
•Spectral method
•with high-order technique
•Non-periodic
•Specific treatment for wavemaking
Wave elevation record
( )tη
Time in s.
Theoretical Framework
• Potential flow theory
and
• Free surface potential
• Fully-nonlinear free surface conditions
on
unknown: the only nonsurfacic quantity
Time-marchingRunge-Kutta 4
Nonlinear Free surface equations
Time evolution strategy
on
on
Separately approximated by an High-Order technique
Standard Higher-Order Techniques
• The two main methods available are:
– Higher-Order Spectral HOS(West et al 1987, Dommermuth and Yue 1987)Formal and Taylor series expansion of the potential only (not for equations)to obtain the vertical velocity.
– Dirichlet to Neumann Operator DNO(Craig and Sulem 1993)Formal and Taylor series expansion of the DNO only (not for equations) iethe normal velocity.
• Decomposition in recursive Dirichlet problems solved byFourier spectral method and collocation nodes
High-Order Method
• Advantages:– Fast solvers with computational costs in O(NlogN) thanks to the use
of Fast Fourier Transforms.Large number of wave components for random seas or steep wave fields.
– High accuracy of the spectral methods
• Limitations of the HOS method:– Non-breaking cases
Steep wave field involves high order nonlinearities– increase the number of modes– dealiase carefully
– Sawtooth instabilities for very steep wave calculations Standard five-point smoothing applied regularly through the
steepest simulations or decrease of the number of modes
• Standard Higher-Order Simulations– Periodic boundary conditions on the free surface– Initial stage: Free surface elevation and potential specified at t=0– Pneumatic wave generation
F(x+Lx , y) = F(x , y)F(x , y+Ly) = F(x , y)
A High-Order Approach for Wave Basin
• Basin with rigid wallsBy simply changing the basis functions on which we expand our solution:
The natural modes of the basin
• Cosine functionsStill possible to use Fast Fourier Transforms
• A wavemaker to generate the waves starting from rest(no initial wave description required)
• The concept of additionnal potential (Agnon and Bingham 1999)
•Inlet flux conditionsolved in an extended basin
• Resolution of the additional potential in a extended basin
• Extensively validated in a previous second order model(Bonnefoy et al ISOPE’02, Bonnefoy et al OMAE’04)
• In 3D: segmented wavemaker• Improved control laws
(Dalrymple method for large wave angles)
Wavemaker modelling Inlet Flux Condition
Also solved by spectral method
Applications
• Improved deterministic reproduction technique in 2D
• Deterministic reproduction of directional focused wavepackets in 3D
Wave elevation record
( )tη
Time in s.20 30 40
-0.2-0.15
-0.1-0.05
00.05
0.10.15
0.2
Time in s.
Wavemaker motion
( )X t
Deterministic reproduction in 2D
• Wavemaker motion to reproduce this wave field– Control in the frequency domain with a set of components:
amplitude, phase (+ angle in case of 3D generation)
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z
x
��
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X(t)
Wave probe
X̂(f) C∈
Wavemaker
( )X t
Wave elevation record
( )tη
Time in s.
Characteristics:•Steep wave packet: kpAl = 0.26•Asymetric in time
Basin dimensions: 50m long 5m deep
Analytical methods
• Linear backward propagation: reverse phase method(e.g. Mansard and Funke 1982)
• Second-order bound correction of amplitudes(e.g. Duncan and Drake 1995)
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�X(t)
Wave probe
Wavemaker
( ) ( ) ( ) ( ) ( ) ( )ˆˆ ˆ ˆikx ikxt f f e X f TF f e X tη η η η→ → → = →-1F F
( ) ( ) ( ) ( )1 2ˆ ˆ ˆt f f fη η η η→ = +F
Wave elevation record
( )tη
Time in s.
20 30 40
-0.2-0.15
-0.1-0.05
00.05
0.10.15
0.2
Time in s.
Wavemaker motion
( )X t
Wavemaker Transfer Function
Iterative corrections
TargetBefore iterationAfter 5 iterations
Initialguess
Non-linearsimulation
Correction on amplitudesand/or phases
Correctedmotion
n=1
ηn (t)Comparison tothe target afterFourier analysis
( )expn n nX X i φ=
( )nX f
Target wave
$ ( )fη
Time in s.
TargetFirst order inputSecond order input
Time in s.
Without iteration With iterations
Elev
ati
on in m
.
Elev
ati
on in m
.
A first step towards higher ordercontrol of nonlinearities
• In litterature: analytical-empirical approach Clauss et al (OMAE’04)
• Crest and trough focusing
• Johannessen et Swan (PRSL 2001)• Zang et al (OMAE 2004)• Bateman (PhD Thesis 2001)
• Separation in odd and even orders
• Phase modification by third order effects is present in odd and evenelevation
( )tη ( )tπη
( )
( )
1212
odd
even
π
π
η η η
η η η
= − = +
( ) ( ) ( )( )
( ) ( )( )
' ' ''
' '
' m n p m n pn n
m n m n
i t k k k xi t k xodd n m n p
n m n p
i t k k xeven m n mn
m n
a e a a a e
a a G e
ω ω ωω
ω ω
η
η
± ± − ± ±− ± ±
> ≥
± − ±± ±
≥
≈ + ≈
∑ ∑
∑
Validation with a small amplitude wave packetSecond order effects
• 10 cm amplitude wave packet (at the focusing point) for 5 m meanwavelength
• Nonlinear effects reduced to second order
• Good agreement between first order and odd elevation,and between second order and even elevation
First orderOdd elevationSecond orderEven elevation
Target wave packetCrest focusingTrough focusing
Measured elevations Odd-even decomposition
Time in s.Time in s.
Third order effects for higher wave amplitude
• Resonant Interactions• No instabilities detected (in contrast with Johannessen and Swan (PRSL 2001)
• Phase velocity
• Non resonant Interactions• Bound terms
• Example with a 30 cm wave packet
Odd and linear elevation Even and second order elevation
linear phase velocitynonlinear phase velocityeven elevation
linear phase velocitynonlinear phase velocityodd elevation
Time in s.Time in s.
Elev
ati
on in m
.
Elev
ati
on in m
.
( )'n ni t k xodd n
na e ωη −=∑
To build the linear elevation
Application to deterministic reproduction
Initial decomposition : linear Initial decomposition : second order
The main features of the focused target wave packet are well reproduced withonly one correction of the wavemaker motion (no iteration so far)
•Central crest and lateral troughs are close to the target both in amplitudes and phases
•Central crest amplitude is correctly estimated
• Better control of the high-frequency waves
Time in s. Time in s.
Elev
ati
on in m
.
Elev
ati
on in m
.
Wavemaker motion corrected with the phase shift
due to nonlinear phase speed modification( ) ( )' iX f X f e φ∆=
Focused wave packet reproduction in 3D
• Directional irregular wave field
S(f,θ) = S(f) D(θ,f)
• Modified Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum (fpeak=0.5Hz, Hs= 4 cm)
• Directional spreading with s=10
• Focusing time t=45 s
• Elevation recorded in 5 locations(probe array used for short-crested seas analysis)
t = 25 s. t = 45 s.
( )5 425 5exp
4 4Sp ps
p
f fHff f f
= −
( ) 2, cos2
D s of θ θθ − =
Reproduction of a directional focused wave field
Analysis in the frequency domain (for the 5 probes)
( )( cos sin ) for 1 to 5i ik x y pa e e FT pφ θ θ η− + = =Three unknowns at each frequency : , ,a φ θ
A set of nonlinear equations solved with a nonlinear least squares method(local minima are expected)
and different initial guesses
1 to 5
random between 0 and 2 gaussian random angle
init p
init
init
a FT
φ πθ
= =
( ) ( ) ( )25
01
T targetp p
pw t t t dtε η η
=
= −∑∫
We obtain a set of solutions of the nonlinear equations: we choose the onethat minimises
Directional focused wave field
Simulated wave packets with the HOS model of the wave basinfor both the focused target and the reproduced wave packet
Target wave fieldfp = 0.5 Hz, Hs = 4 cm
Directional spreading s=10
Focusing time t = 45 s
Reproduced wave field
( ),, , y ta Xφ θ →Prescribed snake-like wavemaker motion
Large waves angles generated with the Dalrymple method
Directional focused wave field
View of the wave field before the focusing event at t = 33.5 s
Target wave field Reproduced wave field
•The main features of the focusing packet are correctly reproduced
•The high-fequency range is underestimated in the predictedwavemaker motion
Directional focused wave field
View of the wave field at the focusing event t = 45 s
Target wave field Reproduced wave field
•Underestimation of the wave crest
•Overestimation of the width of the crest
Conclusion
• High-Order Spectral method applied to the wave generation in awave basin
• Improvement of the wavemaker motion for the generation of deterministic wave packets
• Part of third order effects (phase velocity) taken into account in 2D
• Attempt of deterministic reproduction in 3D
Future work
• Phase velocity correction applied iteratively• Application to different kinds of wave packets (narrow-
banded, broad-banded…)
Comparison between numerical simulations andexperiments
Amplitude 40 cm Amplitude 30 cm
Nonlinear simulation results for linear and second-order wavemaker motion
Difference with the target signal:– Time shift– Peak amplitude– Through amplitude
Improvement of the second ordermodel:
– Reduced time shift
Basin dimensions: 50m long5m deep
Number of modes: Nx=512Nz=64
Order of decomposition: M=5
TargetFirst order inputSecond order input
Time in s.
Analytical methods
Elevation in m.
Wavemaker control
• Successive corrections
• Initial guess: second-order analytical model
Initialguess
Non-linearsimulation
Correction on amplitudesand/or phases
Correctedmotion
n=1
ηn (t)Comparison tothe target afterFourier analysis
( )expn n nX X iφ=
( )nX f
Target wave
$ ( )fη
Numerical checkings
• Number of modes
• Order of decomposition for
• Time interval between successive smoothing (dt = 0.014s)
reference0.45201024
0.08 %0.4516512
2.1 %0.4459256
Relative errorPeak heightNumber of modes
zφ∂∂
reference0. 45165
0.18 %0.45244
0.40 %0.45343
Relative errorPeak heightOrder M
0.09 %0.451930
0.15 %0. 451620
0.02 %0.452240
Reference0.452360
Relative errorPeak heightNumber of timesteps
Iterative corrections1-Phase lag refinement
Wave elevation obtained at iteration « n »
with motion
Correction on the phaseφn+1 = φn + ∆φ with ∆φ = φ − ψn
Simulation result after 5 iterationsTargetBefore iterationAfter 5 iterations
( )expn n nX X i φ=( )exp nn n iη η ψ=
Time in s.
Elevation in m.
Target phase
Iterative corrections2-Amplitude and phase
Correction of the phaseφn+1 = φn + ∆φ with ∆φ = φ − ψn
Correction of the amplitude
with ∆a =
Simulation result after 5 iterationsTargetBefore iterationAfter 5 iterations
1n nX X TF a+ = + ∆
Target amplitude
Elevation in m.
Time in s.
( ) ( )nf fη η−
Iterative Corrections
14163537Error (%)
Iterations onboth the phaseandamplitudes
Iterations onthe phase
First plussecond order
First orderCase
Wave elevation record
( )tη
Time in s.
Comparisoninterval
2
1
2
1
target simu
target
100
T
TT
T
dtError
dt
η η
η
−=
∫∫
Elevation in m.
Time in s.
•Discrepancies for the peak amplitude
•Spurious oscillations before the focused event
Numerical and Physical Experiments of Wave Focusing in Short- Crested SeasTopic of the talkTheoretical FrameworkTime evolution strategyStandard Higher-Order TechniquesHigh-Order MethodA High-Order Approach for Wave BasinWavemaker modelling Inlet Flux ConditionApplicationsDeterministic reproduction in 2DAnalytical methodsIterative correctionsA first step towards higher order control of nonlinearitiesValidation with a small amplitude wave packetSecond order effectsThird order effects for higher wave amplitudeApplication to deterministic reproductionFocused wave packet reproduction in 3DReproduction of a directional focused wave fieldDirectional focused wave fieldDirectional focused wave fieldDirectional focused wave fieldConclusionComparison between numerical simulations and experimentsAnalytical methodsWavemaker controlNumerical checkingsIterative corrections1-Phase lag refinementIterative corrections2-Amplitude and phaseIterative Corrections