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FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2014 WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY $3.00
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A New Affair
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PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO, STYLED BY SHARON BER
By ARNOLD J. KARR
IT COULD HAVE BEEN WORSE, and it might take a while for it to get better.
That was the message behind reports from re-tailers Thursday on January and fourth-quarter sales, which combined with 2014 forecasts from the National Retail Federation and Customer Growth Partners to paint a picture of a retail market that is likely to remain intensely promotional and highly vul-nerable to the effects of harsh winter weather and a sputtering recovery for at least the fi rst half.
NRF expects retail sales — exclusive of restau-rants, automotive and gas stations — to grow 4.1 per-cent this year, while CGP is looking for more modest 2.8 percent growth, including apparel and accessories expansion of 2.3 percent that is led by accessories, well below the 3.8 percent growth of 2013, which was also highlighted by accessories.
But neither group expects it to be easy. Among the small sample of stores that continue to
report comparable sales on a monthly basis, January concluded with a median comp increase of 3.6 per-cent when drugstores were excluded, higher than the 2 percent gain expected, on average, by analysts sur-veyed by Thomson Reuters. Better-than-expected gains in the month from L Brands Inc. (9 percent), Costco Wholesale Corp. (5 percent) and Gap Inc. (up 1 percent versus an expected decline of 1.3 percent) helped el-evate the Thomson Reuters composite number.
By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG
NEW YORK CITY MAYOR Bill de Blasio may be only a month into his administration, but he made it loud and clear Thursday that the fashion industry has a friend in City Hall.
Affable and at times offhandedly funny during a press conference at the CFDA’s Fashion Incubator, the mayor eased up on the jokes when discussing his commitment to building local apparel manufacturing. Speaking poignantly about how his maternal grand-mother made her way in America by starting an em-broidery business, de Blasio said new generations of immigrants still consider a job in fashion to be the gateway to a better life. The more than 180,000 people working in New York City’s fashion industry gener-ate wages of nearly $11 billion a year. “That’s really money where I come from,” he said.
“The fashion industry is not just a part of our past. It is not just iconic because [of] what it once was. It’s iconic because of what it will be. And it is part of how we will build a more unifi ed city and a city where everyone has opportunities. It is part of how we will build one New York where everyone rises together and opportunity is something that is available to all,” de Blasio said. “And that includes people who have not had as many opportunities and chances to work in this industry. We want to work closely with this in-dustry to maximize opportunity and to make it a fi ve-borough phenomenon.”
To that end, his deputy mayor for housing and eco-nomic development, Alicia Glen, a former Goldman Sachs executive, will serve as the mayor’s liaison to the fashion industry and will lead efforts to grow fashion in all fi ve boroughs. “We need to recognize that for all its glamour, and yes there is glamour, the fashion industry is built on the hard work of highly skilled people, thousands and thousands of highly skilled people whose names may not be on the covers
SEE PAGE 8
FASHION’S NEW FRIEND
De Blasio Talks UpNYC Manufacturing
Rough Month at RetailAnd Outlook Tougher
SEE PAGE 4
Ralph Lauren’s 15-year-old Romance women’s scent is about to get a more sensuous and naughtier little sister, Midnight Romance. It will be
launched in April in the U.S., with the idea of bringing “women to a world of passion and love,” said Guillaume de Lesquen, worldwide president
of Ralph Lauren Fragrances at L’Oréal USA. For more, see page 9.
FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY
NEW YORKCOLLECTIONS
FALL 2014BUSY DAYTHE NEW YORK COLLECTIONS
HIT FULL STRIDE WITH A PACKED SCHEDULE OF SHOWS.
PAGES 6 AND 7
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By VICKI M. YOUNG
JOS. A. BANK CLOTHIERS INC. may want to acquire Eddie Bauer, but is that a good move for either firm?
The companies have been in talks about an ac-quisition as Jos. A. Bank tries to fend off a hostile takeover by its competitor The Men’s Wearhouse Inc., after Jos. A. Bank first tried to bid for Men’s Wearhouse in September.
Golden Gate Capital acquired Eddie Bauer in 2009 out of bankruptcy for $286 million in cash. The private equity firm is atypical in that it has no specific time frame in mind prior to any attempt to monetize an investment. It was also partnering with Jos. A. Bank in its initial bid for Men’s Wearhouse, providing $250 million in equity capital. Men’s Wearhouse rebuffed Jos. A. Bank’s offer and has now begun an unsolicited takeover bid for Jos. A. Bank that’s set to expire on March 28.
Gilbert Harrison of Financo Inc., Jos. A. Bank’s financial adviser, and executives at Golden Gate de-clined to comment about the talks with Eddie Bauer, as did Michael R. Egeck, chief executive officer of Bauer.
Market intelligence early Wednesday had Jos. A. Bank and Eddie Bauer still in discussions, but one source said price might be a stumbling block. It was unclear by week’s end how much further those talks had progressed.
Stifel analyst Richard Jaffe, who covers Men’s Wearhouse, said an acquisition of Eddie Bauer “would significantly diminish the appeal of [Jos. A. Bank] as an acquisition by Men’s Wearhouse, which is probably an objective, whether it is authentic interest or merely a ploy.”
Mark Montagna, an analyst at Avondale Partners, who covers Jos. A. Bank, said, “Eddie Bauer would be a bad fit. People under the age of 40 have mini-mal awareness of the brand. If Eddie Bauer is such a desirable acquisition, at this point [Golden Gate] would already have [done] an initial public offering [for the brand].”
According to Montagna, Men’s Wearhouse is still the best option for Jos. A. Bank, although given the animosity that has developed between the two com-panies, “it’s a wonder how a merger would ever work. Would the two teams be able to work together?”
Montagna did note that there’s pressure ahead in terms of growth for Jos. A. Bank. “The retailer only has room for another 130 full-line stores in the U.S. and 57 more factory doors. There’s not a lot of domestic store growth ahead of them,” he said.
Egeck, who has a strong reputation in the ac-tive outdoor space having had stints at VF Corp.’s
North American Outdoor business and The North Face, provided metrics on what seemed to be still early stages of a turnaround at the specialty chain. Having joined Eddie Bauer in June 2012, the ceo is nearly two years into his five-year plan.
“We’ve had 16 industry awards in the last 18 months [and] the outdoor industry is recognizing the inno-vation level in our product.…We’ve seen some nice traction that has accelerated toward the end of the year. We had comparable-store sales just under 5 per-cent during holiday, a 15 percent comps increase in December, and we ended the year with positive comps that were up 1 percent for the entire year,” he said.
Egeck said Eddie Bauer’s main competitors are The North Face, Columbia Sportswear, Timberland, REI, Patagonia and L.L. Bean.
Annual volume is $1.3 billion in worldwide sales, including licensed businesses, with the U.S. market at $1.1 billion, Egeck said. Bauer’s e-commerce op-eration is about one-third of its total business. The company has an active customer file “in excess of four million” names and sends out 66 million cata-logues a year, totaling 5.9 billion pages, according to Egeck. There are 380 stores globally, with 324 in the U.S. and Canada. It opened five stores last year.
Even presuming a deal for Bauer gets done, there’s a chance it could get undone. That’s be-cause Eminence Capital, which has stakes in both Jos. A. Bank and Men’s Wearhouse and is pushing for Jos. A. Bank to negotiate with Men’s Wearhouse, filed a complaint in a Delaware Chancery Court last month seeking to block Jos. A. Bank, via prelimi-nary and permanent injunctions, from making any acquisition. Earlier this week, it amended its com-plaint naming Bauer as the target of the blocking transaction and noting that Men’s Wearhouse con-tinues to pursue a deal for Jos. A. Bank.
WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2014
TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.VOLUME 207, NO. 26. FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, and two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTION, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593, call 866-401-7801, or email customer service at [email protected]. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. Occasionally we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593 or call 866-401-7801. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.
Eddie Bauer in Early Stages of Turnaround
MAC in Fashion SponsorshipBy PETE BORN
NEW YORK — MAC Cosmetics has signed a three-year agreement — valued at about $1 million by industry estimates — as an underwriter and sponsor of three CFDA programs: The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, the CFDA Fashion Incubator, as well as becoming sole makeup sponsor of the Fashion Awards in June.
While MAC is embracing CFDA, it is also shed-ding its role as the sole makeup presenting sponsor of Made at Milk Studios, while continuing to work backstage with designers, as it does at Lincoln Center and individual shows scattered around the city. MAC makeup artists will be working 76 shows during the eight days of New York Fashion Week and that is just a prelude to the organization’s in-volvement around the world. This year MAC will take part in more than 850 shows globally.
John Demsey, a group president of the Estée Lauder Cos., who oversees MAC, called the new re-lationship with CFDA “a unique partnership” rather than a sponsorship. He pointed out that MAC has sup-ported fashion designers and their shows as far back as the beginnings of the brand, some 25 years ago, and has worked with CFDA shows as far removed as in Beijing. The brand’s involvement with the fashion fund dates back to its inception a decade ago.
Now to be aligned with the fashion fund, the in-cubator and the annual awards, which is the culmi-nation of the nurturing process, “we felt it was an extraordinary opportunity and for us an important statement in terms of our commitment to fashion, designers, New York and the organizationally im-portant, transformative role that CFDA has played in terms of America, the media and sponsoring de-signed-in-New York talent.”
Diane von Furstenberg, CFDA president, said, “In support of the Fashion Incubator, MAC will provide
educational seminars and panel discussions on the synergy between beauty and fashion which helps to bring each designer’s creations to life on the runway. MAC will also be providing backstage makeup sup-port during Fashion Week, and throughout the year for look books, resort and pre-fall collections and various other events. Additionally, John Demsey will join the Business Advisory Committee of the CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund, and take part in the Incubator mentoring program.”
Steven Kolb, chief executive officer of CFDA, said there will be a collaborative relationship be-tween MAC and the designers, particularly in the Incubator program, that could result in the concep-tualization of products.
Demsey asserted, “We are here because we be-long here, not because we wanted to buy a spot here. This is an evolution and a reinforcement of the work we will continue to do supporting design-ers every single day over 23 fashion weeks. I view this as putting a strong flag on the ground. We sup-port emerging talent as well as the existing stars of today and tomorrow.”
Demsey added the decision to cease being the sole makeup sponsor of Made was arrived at “over the past few months. As a founding sponsor of Made, we truly believe in the program and its contribution to ex-posing artistic expression to the world. While we are no longer continuing our front-of-house sponsorship, we are committed to supporting the designers there and all over [fashion week] by providing makeup art-istry as well as guidance and assistance in many other forms. We feel Made has grown to the level where it can continue its programming, offering a superb plat-form to the next generation of designers.”
During an earlier interview, Demsey said MAC had decided to concentrate its money backstage “to make sure it gets to the talent that needs the cura-tion and the development of the evolution.”
ON WWD.COM
THE BRIEFING BOXIN TODAY’S WWD
New York City Mayor Bill de Blasio, at his first official meet-and-greet Thursday morning with the fashion crowd, vowed to boost local apparel manufacturing. PAGE 1 Retailers sharing recent results Thursday made it clear that both January and the fourth quarter could have been worse and that conditions will remain challenging. PAGE 1 Lancel, owned by Compagnie Financière Richemont SA, has named Marianne Romestain chief executive officer. PAGE 4 J.C. Penney Co. Inc. is working with three companies to develop land adjacent to its Plano, Tex., headquarters. PAGE 4 Ralph Lauren’s venerable Romance women’s scent is getting a sexy sister in the form of Midnight Romance. PAGE 9 The message coming out of the ECRM Efficient Program Planning Session was that mass-market retailers want value and products not offered at the chain next door. PAGE 9 Parfums Givenchy is adding a new olfactory variation, L’Eau en rose, to its Very Irrésistible franchise. PAGE 9 Devotees of Rachel Comey’s brand of offbeat chic joined the designer Wednesday for her typically unconventional fashion show-cum-dinner party in Brooklyn. PAGE 10 Pilar Guzmán has been revamping Condé Nast Traveler since she took over the top job just over six months ago. PAGE 10 Carolina Herrera will receive the 2014 Couture Council Award for Artistry of Fashion on Sept. 3. PAGE 11 L’Uomo Vogue, in partnership with The Woolmark Co., will dedicate its March edition to Australia. PAGE 11
Joe Jonas at the Duckie Brown show. For more from New York Fashion Week, see WWD.com.
RUNWAY: Joe Jonas, Nick Wooster, Nigel Barker and Robert Verdi were among the front-row guests at Duckie Brown’s fall show. For more, see WWD.com.
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Thursday also brought quar-terly updates from several retail-ers that no longer participate in the monthly reporting ritual.
Chief among these was Kohl’s Corp., which, without disclosing January sales results, reported that comparable-store sales fell 2 percent during the quarter while rising 0.8 percent in the November-December holiday period, implying, according to several analysts, a double-digit decline in the quarter’s lowest-sales month.
The Menomonee Falls, Wis.-based midtier retailer low-ered quarterly profit guidance to about $1.53 a diluted share from an earlier range of $1.59 to $1.74. But it said the decrease was mainly due to “unanticipat-ed expenses” incurred for its e-commerce business.
In adjusting the market’s bottom-line expectations, Kohl’s
cited not only lower traffic, a nearly universal complaint among stores analyzing the latter part of the quarter, but “low lev-els of clearance merchandise” in its discussion of the sales slip in the three-month period.
The suggestion of lean inven-tories as the first quarter began this week helped lift Kohl’s stock 3.5 percent to $51.55 as the S&P 500 Retailing Industry Group gained 2.3 percent to 871.65 to register its first three-day winning streak of 2014. Retail stocks outperformed the Dow Jones Industrial Average and S&P 500, which both rose 1.2 percent, to 15,628.53 and 1,773.43, respectively.
Whether focused on sales and traffic or margins and in-ventories, fears about January and the fourth quarter had been rife. Wells Fargo analyst Paul Lejuez referred to retail stocks’ performance Thursday
as a “relief rally” and said he remained cautious about the fourth-quarter earnings season and forward-looking guidance, which he believes “will be filled with cautious tones from man-agement teams given the weak holiday period, a rough start to [the first quarter] hurt by weath-er, general [macroeconomic]
pressures and intense competi-tive landscapes.”
Ann Inc. also logged a strong stock performance, rising 4.2 percent to $32.67, despite its up-date on a fourth quarter marked by a “lower than anticipated” performance.
The retailer said earnings and sales for the fourth quarter will exceed those of the 2012 pe-riod, but investors focused on the company’s expectation of a higher gross margin — about 49.2 percent of sales — in the quarter as they drove the stock up.
Kay Krill, president and chief executive officer of Ann, said that “soft traffic and tepid consumer spending across the industry negatively impacted us, particularly in factory outlet centers and geographic regions that experienced extreme win-ter weather. Looking ahead, we have entered the first quarter with clean inventories and fresh spring product at both brands.”
Comparable sales expanded 3 percent in the quarter with the Ann Taylor division’s 1 percent decline offsetting Loft’s 6 per-cent gain. Within those numbers, comps declined 6 percent at Ann Taylor outlet stores and were off 4 percent at Loft’s outlets.
Gap’s unexpected increase for the quarter, which matched
its January rise at 1 percent, in-cluded a 10 percent decline in January at Banana Republic, as Gap brand was up 1 percent and Old Navy up 4 percent.
The San Francisco-based sportswear giant now expects earnings per share of 65 to 66 cents for the fourth quarter, above the existing consensus estimate of 60 cents. Shares jumped 4.5 percent in after-hours trading fol-lowing the release of results after gaining 3.7 percent, to $39.71, dur-ing Thursday’s bullish session.
During a conference call to discuss its forecast of 4.1 per-cent growth in overall retail sales, NRF officials didn’t break down expectations by classifica-tion or sector, but did say that online sales are seen expanding between 9 and 12 percent within the overall projection.
Matthew Shay, president and ceo of NRF, noted, “We’re now five, six years into the recovery
from our recession. The January numbers on comp-store sales make it clear that consumers are still being very careful with the way they spend their dollars.”
Even with unemployment coming down and expected to fall to about 6.5 percent in 2014, participation in the work-force continues to decline and “jobs” and “unemployment” are “fundamentally two different things,” he observed.
Both Shay and Jack Kleinhenz, NRF’s chief econo-mist, pointed out that political uncertainty hurt consumer con-fidence in 2013 but many are optimistic that machinations in Washington wouldn’t cause any damage in the new year.
“We certainly created speed bumps last year,” said Kleinhenz.
Shay said he hoped greater political certainty would lead to more robust growth, which in turn would lead to “less reli-ance on significant promotion and the restoration of integrity of pricing.”
Still he acknowledged that “pricing is much more transpar-ent today” because of extensive online offerings. “Consumers have been conditioned, and that will continue going into the future.”
Craig Johnson, president of CGP, said that he expected “the
weakness of January to extend into the summer,” with his 2.8 percent increase based on a second half that is stronger than the first.
Within his projections for the year is a 9.4 percent increase in e-commerce, which “represents a continued deceleration of the growth rate for online. That’s the first time since people began selling online in a major way that the forecast isn’t for double-digit growth.”
Furthermore, he noted that much of the growth in e-com-merce is now going to brick-and-mortar retailers who’ve diversi-fied. “That’s good news, except when you look at ‘comp’ numbers that are blended to include e-com-merce, it suggests that many of the store-only figures are negative.”
DEPLOYING ITS real estate assets to generate badly needed cash, J.C. Penney Co. Inc. said today that it is working with three companies to develop land adja-cent to its Plano, Tex., headquarters.
Penney’s has formed a partnership with Team Legacy, a venture of Karahan Cos., Columbus Realty and KDC, to develop 240 acres of land acquired by the retailer in 1987, as it prepared to relocate to Plano from New York. Penney’s home office was completed in 1992.
The project, called Legacy West, is in the Legacy Business Park and, Penney’s said, “will be a natural extension of Legacy Town Center,” a mixed-use development.
“We have seen a great deal of busi-ness and residential growth around the home office over the last 25 years, and now is the time to capitalize on this at-tractive asset,” said Katheryn Burchett,
senior vice president of real estate and property development at Penney’s. “Karahan, Columbus and KDC are trust-ed partners with a respected reputation, and we believe they will develop the land adjacent to our home office thought-fully. This new project will be a positive venture for our company, our associates
and all of North Texas.”Shares of Penney’s
rose 44 cents, or 8.4 per-cent, to $5.66 in New York Stock Exchange trading Thursday. They hit a 52-week low of $4.90 on Wednesday, one day after reporting a 2 per-cent increase in fourth-
quarter comparable-store sales, the first such increase since the second quarter of 2011. However, the update implied a de-celerating trend in sales during the quar-ter and a weak performance in January, eroding investor confidence in the embat-tled retailer. — ARNOLD J. KARR
Romestain Tapped as Lancel CEO
Results, Forecasts Suggest First-Half Challenge
Penney’s to Develop Land Near HQ
’’’’
The January numbers on comp-store sales make it clear that consumers
are still being very careful with the way they spend their dollars.
— MATTHEW SHAY, NATIONAL RETAIL FEDERATION
$5.66CLOSING PRICE OF PENNEY’S
STOCK ON THURSDAY.
2.8%GROWTH RATE FOR 2014
RETAIL SALES EXPECTED BY CUSTOMER GROWTH PARTNERS.
4.1%GROWTH RATE FOR 2014
RETAIL SALES EXPECTED BY THE NATIONAL RETAIL FEDERATION.
{Continued from page one}
% Change
Stein Mart 3.1
Ann 3
J.C. Penney 2
Gap 1
L Brands 1
Kohl’s -2
Zumiez -2.2
Buckle -2.8
Cato -3
Wet Seal -16.5SOURCE: COMPANY REPORTS.RESULTS FOR ANN INC. AND GAP INC. INCLUDE E-COMMERCE. OTHERS ARE FOR SAME-STORE SALES ONLY.
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Fourth-Quarter Comparable Sales
By PAULINA SZMYDKE
PARIS — Lancel, owned by Compagnie Financière Richemont SA, has named Marianne Romestain chief executive officer.
The French leather goods maker said she would “move forward with the reposi-tioning of the brand initiated by the group in 2012.”
Romestain succeeds Fabrizio Cardinali, who joined the Paris-based company in October 2012 and exited in June 2013 to become ceo of another Richemont brand, Alfred Dunhill, while still serving on Lancel’s supervising committee.
Last September, Nicole Stulman took over the creative direction of Lancel, fol-lowing the relocation of longtime design-er Leonello Borghi to New York.
Romestain’s arrival was effective Jan. 20, but only disclosed on Thursday.
Romestain began her luxury career at the Richemont-owned Cartier, “where she held several key managerial positions
in France and internationally,” according to the company. Most recently president of Gérard Darel, Romestain also served as managing director at Comptoir des Cotonniers and Fast Retailing France.
Romestain joins Lancel following spec-ulation about the brand’s future within Richemont. Last year, the Swiss luxury group appointed Nomura Securities to explore a sale of the accessories brand. However, Johann Rupert, Richemont’s chairman and principal shareholder, ul-timately pledged the group’s loyalty to its “soft luxury players.”
The group revealed long-term invest-ments in that division — comprising Lancel, Chloé, Dunhill, Shanghai Tang, Purdey, Azzedine Alaïa and Peter Millar — to center on “retail stores and points of sale,” according to Richemont’s chief financial officer Gary Saage.
Saage said these “could be signifi-cant,” with overall capital expenditure at Richemont standing at 800 million euros, or $1.08 billion, a year.
Ann Inc. shares rose 4.2 percent on Thursday.
WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 20146
Creatures of the Wind: The topics covered during a preview of Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters’ fall collection ranged from the introduction of their “fur program,” established in part to flag Creatures of the Wind as a luxury line (in case there was any question) to their “knitwear program” to the “ideas of transcendence and monastic clothing,” which Peters said informed their creative concept.
The strange scope of the conversation is no doubt music to the ears of the Dock Group, the investor group that last year took a financial stake in the label. Gabier and Peters seem to have no problem reckoning the aesthetic idiosyncrasies that built their profile with the practical demands of business.
The collection they showed on Thursday was a testament to this, an evolution of eclectic wearability and creative refinement. The fur was parceled out as accents, on baseball caps and as a built-in stole on the fabulous black-and-white mohair wrap coat that opened the show. The knits came as bright and cozy sweaters that gave softness to the structured fabrics the designers tend to favor. A hefty wool twill, for instance, was used on an evening skirt and a silk jacquard jacket that looked like wood grain.
As for the transcendence, it was more straightforward than it sounded. Many of the silhouettes were based on traditional eastern garb — kimono tunics and wrap pieces styled in long, lean layers. And the color scheme of pretty pinks and purples, plus the occasional embroidered butterfly detail, channeled a mellow, happy state of mind.
Coach: With its graphic installation display and Joel Sternfeld’s giant photo of an Oregon street from 1979 as the backdrop to a small runway show, Coach’s level of presentation — its first during fashion week — was a strong debut for Stuart Vevers.
The designer worked traditional American sportswear with a fresh perspective. “If there’s a familiarity, people can connect,” he said. The designer placed as much emphasis on outerwear as he did bags and shoes, looking at fall through a distinct Americana lens with cinematic references like “The Shining” and “Badlands.” Vevers rendered coats — many of them oversize in blanketlike wool, twill, leather and furry sheepskin — with a subtle utilitarian, workwear vibe that was best captured with the toggle numbers.
Some of the chicest skirts came with round hems and hardware. One, for instance, was covered in grommets and paired with a leather moto jacket and a polka-dot, tie-collar shirt. It all worked well with the accessories, which included cross-body shearling bags, whipstitch fringe styles and shearling-lined wedge boots and platform sneakers.
Vevers’ mandate was to reinvent Coach for a new generation. This impressive effort added a fashiony sensibility to the clothes — which might be just what the
brand needed.Richard Chai: A little definition has been in order as the Richard Chai Love lineup has yet to establish a strong identity in the women’s contemporary market. This time out, a grunge-inflected attitude marked by murky colors, cool slouchy tailoring and, of course, plaid, was a direction worth developing. Cutaway blazers and oversize wrap coats in plaid, camel and a chalky blue were the standout statements, functioning as
structured toppers and a base of languid layers. The look was very borrowed-from-the-boys, specifically Chai’s boys.
Indeed, the men’s wear was more compelling as Chai excelled in finding the right balance between modern tailoring and a youthful street aesthetic. Three-button blazers in petrol green and toffee brown were often paired with tweed sweatpants, while sharp top coats were layered over suits for a grown-up look.
The leather outerwear —
an ongoing collaboration with Andrew Marc — was best in show, particularly the half-leather, half-plaid toggle coat and a glazed wine-colored moto coat.
Duckie Brown: Duckie Brown is in the women’s business. That point was so crystal clear that it overshadowed Steven Cox and Daniel Silver’s men’s wear effort for fall. “Duckie Brown has always been about English tailoring and women’s wear,” said Cox. “And this time we put
Duckie Brown on [real] women and used softer fabrics.”
The attractive looks included tailored pants in both flowing silk and silk duchesse fabrics, some paired with voluminous A-line Neoprene tops. The designers also reworked classic men’s wear motifs, using, for instance, a macro Prince of Wales print and multicolored checks on a textured wool coat.
The men’s group, inspired by eveningwear, was too dependant on shiny silk
New York CollectionsFall 2014
THE SCHEDULE IS ALREADY JAM-PACKED, WITH SHOWS FROM CREATURES OF THE
WIND, COACH, RICHARD CHAI AND MORE.
Creatures of the Wind Coach
WWD.COMWWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2014 7
fabrics, i.e., the ultrafitted work coat worn over flowy, pleated red pants. A more convincing result came when the shine was given a masculine spin, such as with the voluminous polo and slim cigarette pants in monochromatic sage green.
In order for Duckie Brown’s signature men’s wear to get its due, separate shows might be the way to go.
Rachel Comey: After showing her spring collection at Dustin Yellin’s Pioneer Works, Rachel Comey returned to the Red Hook, Brooklyn, spot for fall with an equally charming salon-style presentation in front of guests including Jake and Maggie Gyllenhaal, Peter Sarsgaard and Gaby Hoffmann.
Comey continued to work her easy aesthetic, here with wildly cool toppers such as a mint-colored mohair “fur” coat over tattered twill separates in tonal hues as well as an oversize, sculpted gray jacket with matching pants. Floaty tops were trimmed with metallic fringe, while dresses in novelty prints came elegantly draped across the bodice and over the shoulder.
Everything was paired with Comey’s covetable shoes, including hardy clog-heel boots that on this particular evening, would be perfect to combat the mounds of snow and slush outside.
BCBG: For their 25th-anniversary collection, Max and Lubov Azria delivered a lineup of the easy-to-wear dresses and separates on which they’ve built their brand.
Fur played a key role. It was left wild on statement coats and tamed on a cozy pullover sweatshirt, all paired with retro-striped crepe dresses and body-skimming caftans.
The designers focused on midi lengths, from paneled skirts to culottes, showing them with knee-high boots for a slight Seventies vibe — not to mention the nonchalant elegance the designers were going for.
David Hart: David Hart is one to watch as he continues to reinvent American classics with his infusion of chic nerdiness.
For fall he was inspired by the cult classic “The Twilight Zone.” He channeled the static of old televisions for jacquard silk shantungs used for evening jackets and tuxedo blazers. The mostly tailored lineup also featured single-breasted two- and three-piece suits in throwback fabrics such as herringbone, tweed and mohair.
Veronica Beard: The Seventies in Beverly Hills served as the drawing point for Veronica Beard this season. “Our girl spends all of her time between the Beverly Hills hotel and the Troubadour, and these are the outfits she wears in her adventures,” said Veronica Swanson Beard. “Always with a bohemian flair,” added Veronica Miele Beard.
And what does this free spirit wear from hot spot to hot spot? Everything from gaucho pants, jacquard sweatshirts and raccoon-collared jackets to printed chiffon maxidresses and sleek black jumpsuits.
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8 WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2014
FMI chair Rosen and other partners have raised $1.3 million to date, includ-ing $500,000 from Theory and its parent company, Fast Retailing Co. Ltd., and $500,000 from Ralph Lauren. The total amount raised through the private sec-tor is expected to exceed $2 million in the program’s first year. The first round of winners received grants ranging from $45,000 to $150,000.
“These are the first but not the last of the FMI grants that will be made,” de Blasio said. “The goal of this initiative, very straightforward, very important, is to strengthen the fashion industry in the city. This is an imperative, strate-gic matter for the people of New York City to support this sector. Let’s face it, if there is any sector associated with the dream of starting small and becom-ing big, it’s the fashion industry, so we want to support the many small fashion businesses in this town. And we want to ensure that more of what is designed in New York is also made in New York. I can think of no more powerful market-ing tool than Made in New York.
“Maybe Made in Brooklyn would be even better,” kidded the Park Slope homeowner.
Jokes aside, de Blasio said fashion is a priority for his administration in that it is “one of the key areas where you can create new career pipelines from our schools to highly skilled, good-paying jobs.” He continued, “That is the name of the game, too. [We can] use our public schools, private schools and the wonderful other educational institutions in this town like FIT and create that roadway to consistent, high-skilled well-paying jobs.”
He told the crowd how his mother’s mother, his aunt and his great-grand-mother came from a remote town in southern Italy, Grassano, to New York City “determined to start their own business.” They started by doing em-broidery from their own homes and
eventually “got so good at it that they were able to open a shop that became a thriving dress business at the corner of Fifth Avenue and 35th Street.”
Von Furstenberg said, “Oh great — you’re one of us.”
The mayor went on to personally con-gratulate each of the seven grant recipi-ents — Martin Greenfield Clothiers, New York Embroidery Studio, High Production Inc., Werkstatt, Create-a-Marker Inc., In Style USA and Vogue Too. (To further local manufacturing, the CFDA recently compiled an online directory of New York factories for its Web site.)
New York Embroidery Studio, owned by Michelle Feinberg, provided the em-broidery for the Ralph Lauren uniforms that will be worn by American Olympic athletes at the opening ceremony in Sochi today. Feinberg said she will use some of the grant to buy laser-cutting and embroidery machines that will increase the speed of production to nearly 10 times the current rate. “I’m so pleased to be part of this opportunity to remind the world, while everybody shows up to New York with a dream, we’re not just a city of dreamers. We’re a city of doers, makers, builders and de-signers,” said Feinberg.
Earlier in the program, Rosen stressed how he never would have been able to start his business and be successful without New York City’s strong manufacturing base. He also mentioned how manufacturing has al-ways been a big part of his career, one that is rooted in the business his grand-father started in 1910 selling dresses for $2.99 and $3.99. “My belief is not to save the Garment Center but invest in
the Garment Center, and continue to in-vest in manufacturing infrastructure,” he said.
Von Furstenberg also said she started out in the factory. “It was actually in the factory where I conceived it all,” she said. “My first advice to all designers is, stay close to the factory because fac-tories are the ones who have the most incentive for your business to succeed.”
During a roundtable FMI discus-sion earlier in the week, Rag & Bone cofounder Marcus Wainwright, who served on the selection committee, said that 90 percent of what will be shown on the brand’s fall runway was made in New York. Keeping as much produc-tion in the U.S. as it can has helped Rag & Bone grow to the point where it now employs 300 people in New York.
Grant recipient Kin Ming Lam, owner of the 30-year-old High Production, said he learned from Rosen years ago that locally made goods offer something that international factories just can’t: “a New York feel.”
Noting how new immigrants are struggling today to make it in New York City just as they did 100 years ago, de Blasio said they don’t have connections, but they have “the grit, the determina-tion, the ideas and the work ethic that epitomizes why this industry has be-come so great and that epitomizes what people of today are doing. My grand-mother’s efforts, I can honestly say, cre-ated ongoing opportunity for our fam-ily and is part of the reason I have the honor of speaking before you today.”
’’’’
We want to ensure that more of what is designed in New York is also made in
New York. I can think of no more powerful marketing tool than Made in New York.
— NEW YORK CITY MAYOR BILL DE BLASIO
{Continued from page one}
of magazines, but who make this industry so great every single day — seamstresses, patternmakers, embroiderers and many others. And that has been true for gen-erations, and for generations this indus-try has provided a pathway to the middle class,” the mayor said.
Remarks like that left Diane von Furstenberg, Steven Kolb, Theory found-er Andrew Rosen, Ralph Lauren’s se-nior vice president of manufacturing and sourcing Don Baum, Yeohlee Teng, Nanette Lepore and her husband Bob Savage smiling with encouragement. Von Furstenberg and Kolb have already lined up a meeting with de Blasio for later this month to talk strategy. And Glen and de Blasio’s wife, Chirlane McCray, “will defi-nitely be out and about” during New York Fashion Week, according to the mayor’s front man. (The mayor’s schedule hasn’t been ironed out yet.)
While his predecessor, Michael Bloomberg, became a familiar face among designers by the end of his 12-year tenure, de Blasio appears to have wasted no time in cozying up to the fashion crowd. On in-auguration day, McCray made it known that both she and their daughter, Chiara, were wearing Nanette Lepore ensembles made in the Garment Center. Referring to a meeting and factory tour he had last year with Lepore and Savage, de Blasio thanked the designer Thursday for their meeting of the minds about how to invest in local manufacturing.
Before Thursday’s Fashion Manufacturing Initiative press conference, de Blasio chatted privately with the incu-bator’s designers. “One of the most fasci-nating parts is being able to see how this
town works and go behind the scenes of some of the most interesting industries in our town. This is some place that important things are happening for the future of the city. Some of the next leaders of the fashion industry, names that will become house-hold words, are starting here,” he said.
Through the New York City Economic Development Corp., the City of New York has pledged $1 million to FMI. The CFDA,
De Blasio Committed to Fashion IndustryMayor Bill de Blasio, Diane von Furstenberg and Andrew Rosen.
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WWD.COM9WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2014
NEW YORK — Mass-market retailers want value and products not offered at the chain next door.
That was the clarion message emerging from this week’s ECRM Efficient Program Planning Session dedicated to cosmetics, fragrances and bath at the Hyatt Regency in Denver.
It was a sentiment was reinforced by TPG Growth’s acquisition of a majority stake in E.l.f. Cosmetics last week. E.l.f.’s value pricing strikes a sweet spot with consumers, buyers said. It also hit the mark with TPG.
“TPG appreciated E.l.f.’s growth trajectory and un-derstood the opportunity for fresh and innovative offer-ings in the value channel” said Vennette Ho, managing director and head of beauty and personal care at Financo, which advised on the sale of E.l.f. “Through its creative products and unique digital marketing strategy, E.l.f. is in-fusing new excitement in the cosmetics aisle,” she added.
After a softer than ex-pected Christmas that “shell shocked” merchants, invento-ries had to be cleaned out at drastic markdowns.
“The strategy needs to evolve with a keen focus on consumer sentiment,” suggested Shawn Haynes, vice president of sales for E.l.f. “It is es-sential that we provide the consumer with an en-gaging retail experience that includes high-quality products at extreme value price points.” We have to look after the consumer so they feel they are getting a good deal every day, not just at holiday.”
Retailers and industry observers added E.l.f. and other up-and-coming brands could shake consumers out of their slumber.
“It is a good idea as E.l.f. is hot and retailers are sick and tired of established makeup ven-dors. It is properly priced for this economy and I would imagine discounters and dollar stores would like more merchandise and displays,” said industry expert Allan Mottus.
E.l.f. wasn’t the only newcomer at the show gar-nering a buzz. First-time exhibitor Glimmer Body Art had a bustling room with buyers looking to body art to follow the success of nail art. In particular, the company showed lip stencils to create an ombré look or adorn lips with glitter. “Even though the [Denver] Broncos lost, people are upbeat and leave our room smiling,” said company cofounder Macky Samco.
Honeybee Gardens displayed a range of glu-ten-free, natural products, while LeParfait of-fered apple stem cell antiaging items for mass. QVS Global introduced a new collection of beau-
ty tools. With a directive from executives to ex-pand multicultural offerings, retailers also were receptive to palettes from Milani.
There was also chatter in regard to more ex-clusives inspired by CVS’ Nuance and Wal-Mart’s Flower. “Mass retailers have struggled for years to curate exclusive or unique product assortments because they have all had to carry the same big national brands,” said Ben Bennett, creative di-rector and managing partner of Hatch Beauty,
which has launched many exclusives. “After seeing spe-cialty and prestige beauty retailers successfully launch trend and innovations, mass retailers are aggressively fo-cusing on buying and building unique brands to attract new consumers, especially those excited by compelling value offerings. For a small brand, the opportunity to launch at a major mass retailer now has unquestionable appeal.”
While buyers looked for unique items, they also had to follow mandates from cor-porate offices to boost turns.
Suppliers did their best to present programs to inspire sales. Markwins announced monthly freestanding inserts behind Wet ‘n’ Wild. “That’s three times what we’ve been doing,” said Eric Weeks, Markwins’ vice president of sales.
Retailers also had their eyes peeled for brands they could tap for quick fill in when ma-jors can’t deliver. Last Christmas, several chains did not get shipments on some key price points leaving them left to turn to smaller suppliers who can turn on a dime and ship products. “We benefited from that at Christmas,” said one ven-dor who asked to not be named.
At the other end of the spectrum, manufac-turers said retailers are tightening the screws on inventory to the point they fear out-of-stocks. “They are looking for more week-to-week and even day-to-day inventory,” said one source. “One problem is that when management tells a retailer to cut 10 percent of their [stockkeeping units], they do it across the board as opposed to taking it from slower turners,” he added.
The broad swath of retailers attending proved there is interest in the category beyond tradi-tional mass doors. In addition to drug chains such as Walgreens, London and Bartell and gro-cery merchants including Wegmans and HEB, the roster sported Bed Bath & Beyond, TJX, Tuesday Morning and Glossy Box. “These are all retailers getting more aggressive with beauty,” said Mottus.
By JULIE NAUGHTON
RALPH LAUREN’S venerable Romance women’s scent is get-ting a sexy sister in the form of Midnight Romance, a new fra-grance that will launch in April in the U.S.
“The idea of this fragrance is to bring women to a world of pas-sion and love,” said Guillaume de Lesquen, worldwide president of Ralph Lauren Fragrances. “While the original Romance [launched in 1998] is much light-er and more innocent, Midnight Romance expresses the sensu-ality and edge of a woman and tells a different story, while still capitalizing on the strength of the Romance franchise.”
Alexandre Choueiri, president of International Designer Collections for L’Oréal USA, noted that “while the two share a name, we are treating Midnight Romance as a whole new fragrance.” And the fragrance is de-signed to appeal to a wide range of consumers. “We want to recruit all ages, but we think Midnight Romance will do especially well with women 25 years and older.”
The floriental juice, concocted by Firmenich’s Honorine Blanc and Alberto Morillas, has top notes of raspberry, Italian ber-gamot and juicy lychee; a heart of peony, jasmine sambac and freesia, and a drydown of black vanilla, iris absolute and ambrox. “These notes represent a tension between pink and black, between the masculine and the feminine,” said de Lesquen.
Eaux de toilette will be avail-able in three sizes — 30 ml. for $52, 50 ml. for $74 and 100 ml. for $94. A 200-ml. moisturizer and a 200-ml. bath and shower gel will each retail for $41. A 10-ml. rollerball will retail for $23.
The bottle is the classic trans-parent Romance glass rectangle, tweaked with a shiny black and
silver cap and pink-tinted juice.The scent will be carried
in about 4,000 department and specialty store doors, includ-ing Macy’s, Belk, Bon-Ton, Boscov’s, Dillard’s, Sephora Inside J.C. Penney, Stage, Ulta, Bloomingdale’s, Lord & Taylor, Sephora and Von Maur, begin-ning in April. The remainder of the rollout — to 50 overseas mar-kets — will happen from April through August. Prior to that, said Choueiri, the brand will offer a presell campaign in 282 Dillard’s doors and 300 Belk stores. Customers will have the opportu-nity to test the scent and receive a sample of Midnight Romance and place their orders in those stores between Feb. 15 and March 1. The
dot-coms of the other brick-and-mortar retail partners will also offer samples prior to the scent’s on-counter date.
Print and TV advertising was shot by Bruce Weber and features Anna Selezneva, who is also one of the designer’s runway models. The print campaign, which will include scented strips, will break in May fashion, beauty and life-style magazines, said Choueiri, and an online digital campaign will also feature sampling.
Executives declined comment on projected sales, but industry sources estimated Midnight Romance could generate global first-year retail sales of at least $80 million. Sources estimated that the company will spend be-tween $20 million and $25 mil-lion on advertising and promo-tion in the scent’s first year.
Glitter lip effect from Glimmer Body Art.
Retailers Hunt for Exclusives at ECRMbeauty
By JENNIFER WEIL
PARIS — Parfums Givenchy is adding a new olfactory varia-tion, L’Eau en rose, to its Very Irrésistible franchise, which began in 2003.
“Very Irrésistible is now a classic of the perfume business,” said Thierry Maman, global president of Parfums Givenchy, part of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. He added that the scent ranks in the top 12 of wom-en’s prestige fragrances.
“With L’Eau en rose, what we wanted to do was to create a frosted rose,” said Maman. “We wanted to create a rose that would have a very airy burst, a very vivacious femininity.”
International Flavors & Fragrances master perfumer Carlos Benaïm created the juice, which includes notes of rose, blackberry and musks.
The bottle takes the original Very Irrésistible’s shape but has a pink-coral hue.
Fronting the Ver y Irrésistible brand is American actress Amanda Seyfried, who appears in the print advertising photographed by Glen Luchford and in the TV campaign by
Cédric Klapisch. For L’Eau en rose, the spot starts in the same way as for the Very Irrésistible scent, with Seyfried en-tering Café de Flore, but ends with a twist.
“It’s charming, it’s fresh, it’s vivacious — just like we wanted to be in L’Eau en rose,” said Maman. “We chose Amanda because she is embodying the values of the line.”
Seyfried also has links with Givenchy fashion. She not only at-tended its show but was tapped by the label’s couturier, Riccardo Tisci, to be in the brand’s campaign that came out last summer.
For her part, Sey fr ied ca l led Givenchy “as classic as it gets. But I mean, there’s always some-thing very edgy, too. This is as good as it gets for me. I will be loyal to the brand forever.”
Seyfried — who starred in the recent “Lovelace” (of which she said: “I’m really proud of this, more than any-thing I’ve ever done) — ex-
plained that to be “very ir-resistible is to be kind and loyal and very present, but also to be like three steps ahead of everybody. It’s something that we can’t grasp; it’s not dangerous — but it’s on the brink.”
L’Eau en rose was launched exclusively in the Champs-Élysées Sephora on Jan. 29. In March the product will be sold in full Sephora distribution in France, plus the U.K., Germany, Russia, Belgium and the Netherlands. In April the fragrance is to be carried France-wide and in the Ukraine, Spain and Canada, followed by Italy and the U.S. in May.
In France, the eau de toilette is priced at 51
euros, or $69 at current exchange, for the 30-ml
spray; 71 euros, or $96, for the 50-ml. version, and 88 euros, or $119, for the 75-ml. edition.
While Givenchy executives would not discuss sales pro-jections, industry sources es-timate L’Eau en rose will gen-erate 25 million euros, or $33.9 million, in first-year retail sales worldwide.
CRITICALMASSBY FAYE BROOKMAN
THE ESTÉE LAUDER COS. INC. has promoted Guillaume Jesel to the newly created post of senior vice president and general man-ager of global corporate innova-tion, effective March 31.
Jesel, who currently serves as senior vice president, global and North America marketing for MAC Cosmetics, will report to Carl Haney, executive vice president, global research and development, corporate product innovation, package development, once he as-sumes his new role. During Jesel’s transition he will work closely with Daria Myers, senior vice president,
global corporate innovation and sustainability. She will remain an adviser to both Jesel and Haney.
“Guillaume’s keen under-standing of how innovation drives brand growth, complemented by his strong experience in market-ing and branding, makes him ide-ally suited for this new role,” said Haney. “Additionally, his leader-ship and close partnership with Daria will ensure we continue to build on our company’s long-standing heritage of innovation and help set the trends in prestige beauty for many years to come.”
— MOLLY PRIOR
WWD BEAUTY TEAM TAKING ON NYFW WITH GOOGLE GLASS: Beauty journalism has a new weapon. While covering the backstage action during New York Fashion Week, WWD’s team of reporters will be armed with Google Glass. The $1,500 device, which is now in testing mode and not yet sold at retail, will allow the team to capture videos on the fly and create other interactive content, including GIFs, from behind the scenes. “Through the use of Glass and the Google+ Auto Awesome Photos feature, editors can have a unique way to capture their backstage experience this [NYFW],” said Bette Ann Schlossberg, Google+ Lifestyle partnerships manager. “WWD readers can truly see what the editors are seeing.” The Web page can be accessed for free through WWD.com, beginning at 12:01 a.m. today. — BELISA SILVA
The Midnight Romance ad.
Lauder Promotes Guillaume Jesel
Givenchy Very Irrésistible’s Floral Turn
A New Romance for Ralph Lauren
Givenchy’s en rose.
10 WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2014
PILAR’S NEW TRAVELER: Pilar Guzmán has been in the top job at Condé Nast Traveler for just over six months and in that time, the former editor of Martha Stewart Living and the defunct Cookie magazine has been in the process of revamping the travel title. She considers the March issue the first real example of her work — and there are a few surprises, beginning with the cover. There is a “human,” as Guzmán described it, rather than the typically exotic destination. And not just any human, but a super-closeup of supermodel Christy Turlington Burns, wearing Ray-Ban aviators that reflect an Arizona-inspired terrain.
“It all started to look the same across the category, and it’s not just us,” the editor in chief said of travel magazine covers. “I asked myself, ‘How do you get people to do a double-take?’”
The cover, which contains a vertical list of eight destinations — the predictable mix of England, Hawaii and
Mexico — in chunky white lettering followed by “GO!,” has a retro feel.
While Guzmán has been “playing with scale” on the covers, she also has extended that idea to the inside of the book. Focusing on photos and an easy-to-read, Pinterest/ Tumblr-inspired layout, the magazine also has a more fashionable feeling with a new stable of photographers more frequently found in the pages of Vogue — Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin shot the cover, for example, while Matthew Hranek, who is CNT creative director Yolanda Edwards’ husband, photographed stories inside.
Storywise, CNT has reshaped many of its front-of-book stories to be one-pagers accompanied by oversize photos. Although there are still generally going to be two larger, longer features in the magazine, the bulk of the stories are now shorter, more digestible pieces written primarily by influencers in areas such as fashion, food and travel rather than by the usual stable of well-known travel writers.
The revamp is aimed at jump-starting a magazine that
has struggled for the last few years. Newsstand sales have never been a huge factor at Traveler and have been relatively flat for the last five years when one includes digital replicas, totaling 30,613 in 2013, according to the Alliance for Audited Media, compared with 29,749 in 2008. Ad pages have declined for three consecutive years. According to Media Industry Newsletter, CNT’s ad pages fell 10.4 percent, or just over 103 pages, from 2010 to 2013. Last year, pages slid 3.65 percent to 886.54 pages over 2012.
Guzmán is determined to reverse that. When she was tapped by Condé Nast and welcomed by artistic director Anna Wintour to succeed Klara Glowczewska in August, it was her vision that earned her the job. That vision has centered on drawing in younger, affluent readers, as well as parents looking to vacation with their kids — a market she called “untapped” by travel magazines.
When she made her return to Condé from Martha, Guzmán
brought on Edwards as creative director to fulfill her aesthetic vision. Jeffries Blackerby, digital editor of Wintour’s Vogue, was appointed deputy editor in November, and another Martha alum, Carl Germann, joined as managing editor a month ago. Following a period of instability due to defections in its fashion department, CNT recently
added fashion director Margaret Mann from Glamour.
Although it is still in flux — CNT’s Web site will get an overhaul this year — the magazine appears to be turning things around. It has logged a 10.6 percent increase in ads, amounting to a 21.91-page jump for the first-quarter of the year, according to data from Publishers Information Bureau.
“The travel category is coming back,” cheered publisher Bill Wackermann, who declined to speculate on what went wrong at the magazine before he landed back at CNT in August.
“There wasn’t something wrong, something changed,” he said, referring to the economic downturn. To remedy his woes, Wackermann, like many
publishers, is turning more heavily to the luxury segment.
But the question remains: Were CNT’s woes symptomatic of the ailing economy or of the magazine? For what it’s worth, rival Travel & Leisure pulled out an 8.36 percent jump in ad pages to 1,049.20 in 2013.
— ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD
“I MEAN, I don’t call her [Rachel Comey] with my problems,” said Parker Posey, donning a poodle-printed dress by the designer. “But I’m a big fan.” The actress was joined by an assemblage of editors, artists and devotees of Comey’s brand of offbeat chic — Jake Gyllenhaal, who tagged along with sister Maggie Gyllenhaal and her husband Peter Sarsgaard; Cindy Sherman, Arden Wohl, Garance Doré and a very pregnant Chiara Clemente — for the designer’s
typically unconventional fashion show-cum-dinner party, held for the second season at Dustin Yellin’s Pioneer Works in Red Hook, Brooklyn, on Wednesday.
Inside, away from the slush puddles, partygoers were transported into the sprawling, flower-filled exhibition space where a uniformed waitstaff offered cocktails. Near the entrance, a few female guests changed out of snow boots and into stilettos. Gyllenhaal,
sporting a bushy beard and low ponytail, perfunctorily shooed away even the most innocuous photographers upon arriving.
A wood-burning fire pit was projected onto the back wall (perhaps to evoke some sort of placebo effect).
Comey’s team arranged a car service for several of the guests, which made the outer-borough schlep far more bearable. “It was fun navigating the slush today,” said Posey, without a whiff of irony. “You have to be really careful before you step and be sure that you step solidly. You have to stomp. Everyone’s kind of struggling to stomp. I felt a little — I was getting annoyed with people today.”
Gaby Hoffmann, back in the limelight with a memorable cameo on Louis C.K.’s “Louie” last year and a new, recurring role on season three of HBO’s “Girls,” sipped a drink near her stepmother, Sherman. “I went to the dentist for the first time in three years today, which was actually really fun,” she said. “He gave me laughing gas and played really good music. He put a cushion under my legs and neck and gave me a neck
massage. I was impressed. I was like, this is a spa. I’m ready to come back anytime.”
Another guest star on “Girls,” the artist Laurie Simmons — and Lena Dunham’s mother — was also on hand. “It was really fun to be so Satanic for a few minutes,” she said, referring to her part in a season two episode playing, as she termed it, the “evil art dealer. It was really fun because I don’t relate to myself that way. Lena says I wasn’t taking direction well [on set], but I felt superobedient. I was very well-behaved.”
After cocktails, a soundtrack of chirping birds welcomed
guests into the dining room for a four-course dinner, prepared by chef Julia Ziegler-Haynes. Every 20 minutes, a band played, cueing a parade of lithe models weaving around the room in Comey’s fall collection. The performers, Amber Martin and Nath Ann Carrera of Witch Camp — a hybrid act of music and performance art — kept it kooky for the audience (at one point, Martin held up a machete, then a stuffed white dove).
“Welcome to Witch Camp,” said Carrera. “And thank you for coming.…We just want to say ‘thank you’ for joining us, and when you do decide to make haste from Witch Camp, you will find your broom sticks right where you parked them. Please be safe flying home, as it appears there is a thunder squall brewing.…And enjoy your witch snack.” Then, the duo broke out into a cover of the British folk song “The Trees They Do Grow High.”
Sherman, in awe of the performance, was waiting in line to meet and greet the musicians. “I can’t wait for Rachel’s store to open because I’m just going to order so much stuff,” she said. “This is the only show I’m going to this season, and it was the only show I went to last season, too. I just don’t like fashion shows. But her show is not like most fashion shows.” — KRISTI GARCEDPH
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Condé Nast Traveler’s March cover.
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A Not-So-Fashion-Week Party
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WWD.COM11WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2014
HERRERA’S HONOR: Carolina Herrera will receive the 2014 Couture Council Award for Artistry of Fashion at the annual benefit luncheon, to take place at the David H. Koch Theater at Lincoln Center Sept. 3, kicking off the spring 2015 collections in New York. The lunch is hosted by The Couture Council of The Museum at FIT and chaired by Julie Macklowe and Elizabeth Musmanno. “I have great admiration for The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology — it’s a vital link between fashion, culture and history,” Herrera said. “The work of the museum gives our industry a stage to express cultural relevance in a historical context, engaging an audience beyond fashion, beyond New York.”
Valerie Steele, the museum’s director, added, “Carolina Herrera exemplifies the woman of style who is a very special kind of fashion designer. Like Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel, Carolina Herrera became famous for creating the kind of elegant, beautiful clothes that she herself wears.”
Past recipients included Michael Kors, Dries Van Noten, Oscar de la Renta, Alber Elbaz and Karl Lagerfeld.
— MARC KARIMZADEH
ALL FOR LIZ: It was pushing-room only at the Four Seasons restaurant in New York Wednesday night as hundreds of well-wishers turned out to congratulate Liz Rodbell on her elevation to president of Lord & Taylor and Hudson’s Bay. Vendors, coworkers and editors jammed into the Grill Room and shoved their way to the merchant, who greeted everyone from Leonard Lauder and Elie Tahari to Josie Natori and Vera Wang.
“This is so fantastic,” an overwhelmed Rodbell said. “It was so gracious of Richard and Don to do this.” The evening was hosted by Hudson’s Bay Co.’s governor and chief executive officer Richard Baker and president Don Watros. Baker said the overflow turnout didn’t surprise him. “Liz is a major player in the department store space, so I’m not surprised by all the love,” he said. — JEAN E. PALMIERI
LAGERFELD TO HIT LONDON: The Karl Lagerfeld brand is gearing up to open its first store in the U.K. come March 14, a 2,690-square-foot flagship at
145-147 Regent Street, where Hackett stood before it relocated farther along the street late last year.
The space, the Lagerfeld brand’s largest European store to date, will be decked out in the label’s signature decor, which incorporates mirrors, walls of light and black and white design details. The space will carry the Karl Lagerfeld’s men’s and women’s ready-to-wear collections, along with categories such as handbags, leather goods, footwear, eyewear and scarves.
Technology will also play a part in the store, with iPad minis integrated into the display racks so shoppers can view the collection online while in the store, while iPads will act as a digital guest book, on which shoppers can leave notes for Karl Lagerfeld himself. In addition, customers will be able to
snap photos of themselves trying on Lagerfeld’s designs via touch screens in the fitting rooms. — NINA JONES
BILLABONG EYEING SALE OF E-COMMERCE SITES: Billabong International has hired Guggenheim Securities to help with a possible sale of its two e-commerce businesses, SurfStitch and Swell. The Australian surfwear firm owns 100 percent of Swell and has a 51 percent stake in SurfStitch. Both businesses sell product from other brands. A sale of the two would enable Billabong to focus solely on its core Billabong business.
Shareholders last month approved of the refinancing deal for Billabong provided by Oaktree Capital Management and Centerbridge Partners, giving the financial firms a 40.8 percent stake in the surf firm.
Billabong hired Neil Fiske, former president of Eddie Bauer Holdings, as its chief executive officer last year. — VICKI M. YOUNG
BFF’S: Phillip Lim and Richard Chai have a well-documented bromance. “How many years is this now? Five?” Lim said from the front row of the Richard Chai Love show on Thursday, a seat he’s held for 10 back-to-back seasons. (Chai also always
attends the 3.1 Phillip Lim show). The designer tore away from castings and styling at the studio to see his buddy’s collection. “I always view Richard’s show as like an alarm clock,” Lim said. “Like,
‘It’s really happening now!’” Further down the front row,
photographers snapped away as Zachary Quinto, Bryan Greenberg and Joe Jonas bro’ed out for photographers. Staying close to her man, leggy model Blanda Eggenschwiler (recently visible as Jonas’ arm candy) told friends why she was such a Richard Chai fan: “His clothes are just so sexy.” Huh? A few seats away, Quinto gushed about Chai, a personal friend of the actor. “I just love his stuff,” he said. “It has this real ease to it but it’s still unique.” Quinto visibly blushed moments later when beau Miles McMillan came storming down the runway. Perhaps, his take of Chai’s show skewed more towards sexy this go around?
— TAYLOR HARRIS
FASHION AND FILM: Showgoers attempting to cross town after Creatures of the Wind hit more traffic than the anticipated show season congestion on Thursday afternoon thanks to a Ben Stiller movie being filmed on Central Park West. The crew, there to shoot Stiller crossing the avenue for a scene of the upcoming “Night at the Museum 3,” essentially shut down Central Park West between 63rd and 64th Streets in increments, with cars only able to drive through
every other green light. The clan of usual suspects
— Leandra Medine, Chelsea Leyland, a newly purple-haired Kyleigh Kühn, Tennessee Thomas, Natalie Joos, et al. — turned up to the Creatures
of the Wind show. Audrey Gelman, a freshly minted member of the front-row clique, took it all in. “Huge,” she said when asked if she was a big Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters fan. “They have this infectious creativity. There’s this radical newness to their clothes that always really excites me.” — T.H.
L’Uomo Vogue Goes Australian
FASHION SCOOPS
By LUISA ZARGANI
L’UOMO VOGUE, in partnership with The Woolmark Co., will dedicate its March edition to Australia, and de-tails surrounding three days of events next month dedicated to fashion and style will be revealed in Sydney today. WWD first reported about the Australia-themed issue last month.
The public and private events will be held March 25 to 27 in Sydney and will also mark the Woolmark brand’s 50th an-niversary this year. “We are not looking at any self-celebratory event; this is not about feting our birthday. We would rath-er celebrate wool and talk about wool,” said The Woolmark Co.’s global strategy adviser Fabrizio Servente. “We want to highlight how wool is important, fun and versatile in fashion.”
Franca Sozzani, editor in chief of L’Uomo Vogue and Vogue Italia and a U.N. Goodwill Ambassador, is expected to travel to Australia for the first time.
On March 27, Sydney’s Castlereagh Street shopping district and the sur-rounding area will host a retail initia-tive dubbed “World Wide Wool.” Leading fashion stores, together with depart-ment store David Jones, will celebrate a “shopping night” dedicated to wool, with
extended opening hours and in-store events. Images from L’Uomo Vogue ar-chives will be exhibited in the windows of the most important flagships.
That same night, the Museum of Contemporary Art (MCA) will unveil an exhibition of L’Uomo Vogue photos from its March edition — a collection of im-ages of Australia’s most influential per-sonalities in fashion, design, art, music, economy and public life. In conjunc-tion, the museum will host a showcase dedicated to talents and wool: an instal-lation of fashion designs by the most promising emerging Australian design-ers, selected by Sozzani with the sup-port of Vogue Australia. Sozzani and The Woolmark Co.’s managing director Stuart McCullough will inaugurate the event with a cocktail party.
On March 25, a farm visit will be orga-nized for the international media to learn more about Australian wool production.
During her stay, Sozzani will also meet the most promising students from Sydney’s University of Technology, as well as a group of Australian fashion designers.
The editor is also part of the judg-ing panel for the 2014-15 International Woolmark Prize competition, the win-ner of which is to be revealed at Milan’s Museo Della Triennale on Feb. 21 during the city’s fashion week.
FOR MORE SCOOPS, SEE
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