Module 1 Lesson 8 Summary Notes

Professional Diploma in Jewellery Design

Time Warp Module 1 Lesson 8

Summary Notes

2 www.shawacademy.com

PROFESSIONAL DIPLOMA IN JEWELLERY DESIGN

Contents

3 Lesson outcomes

3 Introduction

3 Timeporium

6 Time capsule

11 Pursuit of timeless jewels

13 References



Introduction Every culture throughout our history has embellished and adorned their bodies. Jewellery has played such a valuable part

of our cultures and self-expression. Whether it be functional, decorative or to signify status, jewellery is everywhere. By

looking back into the rich timeline of jewellery, we get a better understanding of how jewellery has evolved and how we as

designers can undertake our responsibility of creating jewellery that can stand the test of time.

Timeporium These days we are surrounded by visual feasts of jewellery. From simple to ostentatious, from costume to high-end, from

hand-made to precision high-tech; it is everywhere.

Jewelpedia I do not know about you guys, but to me, it is unimaginable that there used to be a time of no jewellery. I am overwhelmed

with joy that I get to witness the evolution of jewellery from primitive times to what we wear today.

Before we step into my time machine to journey back to the very beginning of jewellery, let us talk about the origin of the

engagement ring. Engagement rings are one of the most popular types of jewellery items worn, but where did this

tradition originate from?

Engagement rings originated from Ancient Rome as a sign of ownership. In 850, Pope Nicholas I declared that the

engagement ring signified a man's intent to marry. It was not until 1477 that diamonds started emerging in engagement

rings when Archduke Maximilian of Austria proposed to Mary Burgundy. However, diamond engagement rings only

became popular with the launch of the De Beers advertising campaign in 1947 with the slogan ‘A diamond is forever’.

Lesson outcomes By the end of this lesson, you should be able to:

• Introduce history of jewellery

• Explore cultural influences

• Identify the importance of history as a designer

• Discover the most influential eras

• Generate a design based on an era

• Modernise design into timeless design

Practical lesson outcome:

Create a design based on specific era and then modernise it into a timeless design



Importance of history

It will make you a better designer:

• Connects you to societies across time

• You discover mistakes that were made in the past

• You also develop an appreciation for the changes through centuries

• This will help you to become a better artist by learning from the past by using the history of jewellery as a

personal mentor

• Exploring the patterns in trends can help you understand how to create timeless designs

As an artist, you should be a knowledge sponge... The more you observe and the more you are exposed to, the better your

eye for detail will become. Design is not about looking; it is about seeing.

On this topic, I would like to share a quote from Theodore Roosevelt, also known as Teddy Roosevelt) and he said this:

‘The more you know about the past, the better prepared you are for the future’.

Time catcher Throughout history, across the world, body adornment took many different forms, styles and function. The design

evolution of adornment was characterised by a variety of cultural influences.

Ancient Egyptians:

• Jewellery was worn to symbolise wealth and power

• Only worn by affluent class

• They commonly wore talismans & amulets

• Common motifs include scarabs (flashback to the scarab in the Mummy movies) and the symbol of life, the ankh

• Bracelets were made with multiple strands of coloured gemstones

• Colour symbolism was also very important to Egyptians to reflect personalities

Mediterranean (now known as Iran):

• They usually wore simple stone amulets

• Jewellery was used to dress up statues and offered to gods

• In the Royal Tombs in ancient Sumnar (roughly 3000 B.C.), mummies were covered with headdresses, crowns,

pins, necklaces, rings and earrings

Mesopotamia:

• They combined different metals with bright coloured stones

• Both men and woman wore gold jewellery in the Sumer civilization

• They popularised the use of intricate patterns in jewellery, like leaves, spirals and bunches of grapes

Ancient Greece and Rome:

• They combined precious metal and clay to make ornamental jewellery

• Social hierarchy was symbolised by the upper class wearing jewellery

• Brooches were used to keep clothing together

• Wore talisman as protection from evil

Byzantine Empire:

• Their jewellery were characterised by rich colours and oriental symbolism

• The art of cloisonné enamelling flourished during the Byzantine period



Ancient China:

• All classes wore jewellery

• Due to its durability, Jade was held in the highest regard

Ancient India:

• The Mughal Empire popularised the combination of gemstones with gold and silver

• Pure gold was seen as a sacred metal

• Due to gold's non-corrosive properties, gold signified immortality

Mesoamerica:

• Jewellery was worn only by nobility

• Amount of jewellery worn, signified rank and prestige

Africa:

• The oldest jewellery were found in the Blombos cave in Africa in 2004 and were mollusc shell beads

• Estimated to be more than 75 000 years old

• Cowrie shells used in African jewellery symbolised female fertility

• Fulani people of Africa were known for their exquisite craft of gold jewellery

Fashionation with time Throughout history, jewellery went through many changes brought on by the fashion changes and the rise and fall of many

civilizations.

Let’s take a look at the evolution of jewellery.

110 000 - 73 000 B.C.

The earliest jewellery known to man was made from dried seashells and seashell beads.

3800 - 2800 B.C.

In France, archaeological evidence was found that indicated that jewellery beads were made from animal teeth and bone.

Archaeological evidence found in the Czech Republic (modern name) showed that jewellery was made from fossilised shell

and ivory beads.

4400 - 3100 B.C.

Oldest known objects made from gold was made by the ancient Thracian civilisation.

2750 - 1200 B.C.

Ancient Mesopotamia started creating more sophisticated designs and used agate, lapis, jasper and carnelian. Ancient

Egypt started to cast gold.

1400 - 1200 B.C.

Egyptians started making jewellery with gold, copper and gemstone. They also started trading with jewellery with other

civilizations. Signet rings were created with monogram/coat of arms and used to signify signatures as people could not

read or write yet.

Greek jewellery was inspired by animals and shells with amethysts, chalcedony, pearls, garnet, emeralds and cornelian.

The Harrapan culture, which emerged from South Asia during the Bronze Age, jewellery making started to advance with

techniques of enamelling and embossing. Silver also becomes a popular metal for jewellery.



1100 - 600 B.C.

The Greeks started making intaglios and cameos, and iron hand tools are introduced that allow for greater sophistication

in the design and production of jewellery.

Around 800BC, diamonds, which were already known in India, become an export product.

Between 700 B.C. – 600 B.C. the Etruscan civilisation starts to use sapphires and amber in their jewellery pieces

500 - 400 B.C.

Ancient Romans began to create jewellery pieces such as amulets, brooches, seal rings, and talismans that were infused

with animal designs or coiling snakes. Amber, emeralds, garnets, diamond, pearls, and sapphires were the most popular

gemstones used at that time.

400 B.C. - 1000

We enter the Dark Ages during which jewellery was rarely used except among nobility and royalty. No real advances in

jewellery design or production are seen during this time.

Time capsule Let us take a trip through time and discover the different eras that played a big role in the design development of

jewellery.

Archive revival Ever had to dig through old archived messages, emails and photographs to find something? Well, that is what we are

about to do... except going through the old archives of jewellery is so much more fun!

Early modern era 1100 - 1400

During this era, jewellers were unable to cut gemstones. And thus, a stone was bigger with duller appearance. The settings

for gemstones were left open at the bottom. It was believed that stones had supernatural powers; so settings were open

for the stone to make contact with the skin and the magic could be passed through to the wearer.

Medieval era 1200-1500

Brooches transformed from functional to more decorative and also became more lavished and embellished. Laws during

the 14th-century forced people to only wear jewellery that signified their social status and the land they owned.

Renaissance 1300 - 1600

The pendant became popular to express the sensibility of the Renaissance. Characterised by large baroque pearls, lizard

motifs and mythical creatures. Designs became more opulent. Religious symbols and devotional jewellery became

popular.

Georgian 1714 - 1830

The decline in the rural economy was a result of the Industrial Evolution and jewellery was only worn by nobility and upper

classes. The Rococo style introduced jewellery with words also known as acrostic jewellery. Bright gemstones with foil

backing were used and during this era, the bow designs flourished.

Who knew the reference Rococo style? Is that the old name for Rock 'n Roll?

For those who don't know, the Rococo style, also known as the Late Baroque style, was the use of scroll curves, sculpted

relief motifs and asymmetrical patterns.



Victorian 1837 - 1901

This era witnessed the spread of movements like feminism, socialism and liberalism. Queen Victoria advocated

development and change. She loved romantic jewellery and was known for her brooches containing a lock of hair from

loved ones. However, after the death of Prince Albert, she wore black mourning jewellery for 40 years.

The art & craft movement 1880 - 1910

Was a response to Industrialisation, and was a rebellion against machinery removing creativity from society. Jewellers

started to create new techniques, putting their joy and passion back into their own hands.

Art Nouveau 1895 - 1910

Jewellers attempted to revive good craftsmanship and old abandoned styles, moving towards modernism. Main motifs

seen during this era were: creatures, plants and insects. Enamel became a popular technique, specifically the plique-a-jour

technique.

Edwardian 1901 - 1915

Jewellers who deviated from the Art Nouveau movement started to make more delicate pieces. It was popular to create

designs inspired by bows, garlands, wreaths and ribbons. And during this era, the technique milgrain was born.

Art deco 1920 - 1939

Introduced an unconventional style with a clean and refined look, symbolising sophistication. It was characterised by

geometric and clean lines, contrasting the organic shapes from Art Nouveau.

Scandinavian 1945 - 1950

To deviate from the international style Bauhaus, this new style originated from Scandinavia, spreading across Europe and

America. It was characterised as an Angular and Nordic style.

Retro 1950 - 1970

1950s:

• Also known as the 'vintage’ era

• Was known for a More colourful, expressive and contemporary style

• Due to the low neckline of clothing, there was more skin to be adorned

1960s:

• Plastic jewellery became popular along with layering of bright jewellery

• Thanks to the hippies, flowers, peace signs and psychedelic colours became popular

1970s:

• Bold jewellery in neutral and darker colours were used

• Beaded jewellery became popular

Contemporary 1970 - present

Designs have created from a variety of sources of inspirations, including the older eras. The punk rock remains one of the

biggest influences on the style.



A century of treasury

We will now take a closer look at the influences of the 19th-century.

Think quick! You're invited to go to the 19th-century themed party. However, there is a twist. You can't present the era in

your clothing; only through accessories and jewellery. Do you know the eras by heart? Let’s see if I can help you with that.

1910s – Art Nouveau

Recognised by:

• White on white colour schemes

• Long necklaces with tassels

• Peacock feathers were a must

Main Influencers:

• René Lalique

• Phillipe Wolfers

Icons:

• Gladys Cooper

• Erika Glaessner

1920s – Art Deco

Recognised by:

• Architectural and geometric style

• Diamonds, pearls, emeralds and sapphire

Influencers:

• Cartier

• Harry Winston

• Tiffany & Co

Icon:

• Coco Chanel

1930s – Hollywood glamour

Recognised by:

• Gold with diamond, emerald, ruby and sapphire

• Bold, bright and vibrant colours

• Costume jewellery with plexiglass and rhinestones

• Moonstone and other inexpensive gems

Icon:

• Joan Crawford



1940s – Glamour and diamonds

Recognised by:

• Earrings worn high on the earlobe

• Used predominantly gold

• Revival of ribbons and bows from Edwardian era

Influencers:

• De Beers slogan ‘A diamond is forever’

• Marilyn Monroe's song ‘Diamonds are a girl's best friend’

Icons:

• Marilyn Monroe

• Bette Davis

1950s – Ultra-feminine glamour

Recognised by:

• Lots of textures in comparison to polished look for 1940s

• Classic pearls and brooches

• Ensemble of full jewellery sets

Influencers:

• Post-war boom promoted more lavish styles

• Simple clothing fashion placed more focus on jewellery

Icon:

• Jayne Mansfield

1960s – Practicality & functionality

Recognised by:

• Milk glass, crystals and pearls

• Plastic jewellery

• Layered necklaces, stacked bangles

• Cocktail rings

• Floral motifs returned

Influencers:

• More exotic styles inspired by East Indian, Egyptian and Asian influences

• Jewellery trends were influenced by Jackie Kennedy (the calm of the sixties)

• Movements: The Civil Rights, Women's Liberation, The Peace and British Invasion

Icon:

• Elizabeth Taylor



1970s – Subdued but bold

Recognised by:

• Bold and flamboyant pieces

• Mixed materials

• Large golden earrings

• Barion diamond cut was introduced

• Coral, coloured quartz and turquoise

Influencers:

• Bohemian fashion

• Glam rock

Icons:

• Elizabeth Ashley

• Karen Valentine

1980s – Big and beautiful

Recognised by:

• Punk rock styles

• Oversized necklaces, earrings and brooches

Influencers:

• Princess Diana (remember when she wore a choker as a headband)

Icon:

• Heather Locklear (big hair)

1990s – Fun & feisty

Recognised by:

• Punk rock choker styles

• Body jewellery, silver and plastic creations

• Flower motifs emerged again

Influencers:

• Pop music

• Male jewellery was on the rise thanks to David Beckham

Icons:

• Britney Spears

• Jennifer Aniston

2000s – Flashy and bold

Recognised by:

• Boho-chic look

• Large hoop earrings

• Layered chain necklaces

• Personalised jewellery



Influencers:

• Hip-hop

• Liz Hurley and Victoria Beckam wearing African and Middle Eastern-inspired jewellery

Icons:

• Nicole Ritchie

• Paris Hilton

Time to create About that party invitation… Surprise! You are about to design your jewellery for the themed party!

Time to choose:

• You need to narrow the options down to your top 3

• Now think of your style

• The era that resonates with you the most, that's the era you going to design for

I managed to narrow down the options to 3 eras: 1950s, 1970s and 1980s. And the final decision is the 1980s... So punk

rock, here we go.

Pursuit of timeless jewels Now that we know the history of jewellery, it is time to focus on the future! As a designer, you are always on an

unstoppable pursuit to create timeless jewels.

Conceptual blending Have you ever hear of the term conceptual blending?

If I give you a design brief theme and say circles, is your initial reaction to design jewellery with spheres and domes?

Now, what if I add randomness and say deform, hollow or echo? You already start to think in a different direction. To

separate yourself from other designers, you need to change the way you think creatively by giving yourself a new method

in your process. By adding random words, the chances of repeating the same designs decreases. This is what we call

conceptual blending.

It was developed by Mark Turner and Gillies Fauconnier. It is all about blending diverse ideas, words and elements into

new fresh scenarios. Thus creating your design theme and minimising repeated generic designs.

Time boss It is time to be the boss of your chosen era. My choice was the 1980s was known for the oversized jewellery and of course,

the big hairstyles.

Let us look at some keywords to help us to develop a design. (Please refer to mind map in video lesson or webinar slides.)

It is a great idea to start your design process with a mind-map like this. This already helped to get a better idea of the era

and also assisted me to create an inspo board.

Inspo board for the 1980s (Please refer to inspo board in video lesson or webinar slides)

Very punk and neon. Something to remember about this area is that nothing fit together. Nothing matched. It was just a

combination of glam funkiness mixed with rock ‘n roll.



1980s patterns (Please refer to pattern compilation in video lesson or webinar slides)

Next, I looked at some patterns, elements or icons that stood out to me from this era.

And they includes:

• Polka dots

• Triangles

• Thunder lightning

• Wiggly lines

My design for 1980s (Please refer to video lesson or webinar slides)

I am a huge fan of ACDC. So no surprise that I chose the thunder icon. And then combined it with the spiky look with

triangles and neon colour.

To infinity and beyond

Some keynotes I would like to make about how to go about creating a timeless design:

• It is imperative to deviate from interpreting a theme in a literal manner

• Once you have a theme, blend your concept with other elements

• Be fearless in your pursuit; like Salvadore Dali says: ‘Have no fear of perfection, you’ll never reach it’

My thought process on elements to blend (Please refer to video lesson or webinar slides)

Let us take a look at my thought process in creating a new design.

The wiggly lines were one of the elements that stood out to me from the 1980s era.

Then I played around with some words. Seeing as this lesson is about the evolution of jewellery. That got me thinking:

Evolution, big bang, explosion or even celebration.

Lastly, let’s talk about the use of colour. Neon was very popular for that era and I love it. But it won’t always be fitting to a

period. To create a design for infinity, I decided to go with earthy and neutral. As this will always be in style regardless of

the trends.

My final design (Please refer to video lesson or webinar slides)

This is the concept I came up with:

• I subtly used the wiggle line

• Combined it with a softer use of the triangles

• Then gave it a look as if it is exploding from the centre



References • Brides. 2020. The Surprising History Behind The Engagement Ring. [online] Available

at: https://www.brides.com/story/history-of-the-engagement-ring

• Doyle & Doyle. 2020. History Of Jewelry Timeline. [online] Available at:

https://doyledoyle.com/pages/timeline

• International Gem Society. 2020. Early History Of Jewelry: Ancient Times To The 17Th

Century - International Gem Society. [online] Available at:

https://www.gemsociety.org/article/myth-magic-and-the-sorcerers-stone/

• Ghosh, I., 2020. A Brief History Of Jewelry Through The Ages. [online] Visual Capitalist.

Available at: https://www.visualcapitalist.com/a-brief-history-of-jewelry-through-

the-ages/

• Jewelrythis. 2020. A History Of Jewelry: A Jewelry Timeline. [online] Available at:

https://www.jewelrythis.com/blog/the-history-of-jewelry-a-jewelry-timeline/

• Jimmy Hornet. 2020. Jewelry Design - A Brief History - Jimmy Hornet. [online]

Available at: https://jimmyhornet.com/jewellery-design-a-brief-history/

• Mail Online. 2020. How Jewellery Trends Have Evolved Over The Past 100 Years.

[online] Available at: https://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-

4182322/amp/How-jewellery-trends-evolved-past-100-years.html

• Melroso. 2020. Top 15 Fun & Interesting Facts About Jewelry And Its History. [online]

Available at: https://melroso.com/blogs/stylingblog/top-15-fun-interesting-facts-

about-jewelry-and-its-history

https://www.brides.com/story/history-of-the-engagement-ring

https://doyledoyle.com/pages/timeline

https://www.gemsociety.org/article/myth-magic-and-the-sorcerers-stone/

https://www.visualcapitalist.com/a-brief-history-of-jewelry-through-the-ages/

https://www.visualcapitalist.com/a-brief-history-of-jewelry-through-the-ages/

https://www.jewelrythis.com/blog/the-history-of-jewelry-a-jewelry-timeline/

https://jimmyhornet.com/jewellery-design-a-brief-history/

https://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-4182322/amp/How-jewellery-trends-evolved-past-100-years.html

https://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-4182322/amp/How-jewellery-trends-evolved-past-100-years.html

https://melroso.com/blogs/stylingblog/top-15-fun-interesting-facts-about-jewelry-and-its-history

https://melroso.com/blogs/stylingblog/top-15-fun-interesting-facts-about-jewelry-and-its-history

Documents

Module 1 Lesson 8 Summary Notes