G-STEEZ CULTURE

A JOURNEY CHRONICLED BY BRIAN REYNOLDS

As I traveled throughout western China over the past two months exploring various Chinese minority com-munities, I have traversed some of China’s most magnificent landscapes. From the Stone Forest of Kun-ming, dramatic grasslands in Shangri-La, to ancient villages hundreds of years old in cities such as Dali and Lijiang--- I have found that China is both an ethnically and culturally diverse country. I have seen various ethnic Chinese minorities and their indigenous lands. Many of the Chinese locals have opened their homes as well shared their cultures with me. Although most minorities live high in the mountains and it is very difficult to reach the small and remote villages they live in, thus far, ever village and hamlet that I have vis-ited has welcomed me warmly.

I decided to take a break from many of the rural communities I have visited and travel to Lugu Lake with the intention of learning more about the indigenous Mosuo people traditions and culture. I wanted to learn more about the practice of “walking marriages” and speak with local Mosuo people regarding their marriage customs. After a bone jarring 6 hour drive around mountains, paved, and unpaved roads from Lijiang, China, I arrived at Lugu Lake located high in the Tibetan Himalayas.

Lugu Lake is a beautiful and serene lake situated on the borders of the Sichuan and Yunnan provinces. The mountainous roads were rough and the ride tossed me between two Chinese farmers who continu-ously praised my Chinese, unawaringly blew cigarette smoke in my eyes and insisted I eat their home-grown apples. Nevertheless, the ride was well worth the money I paid when I reached my destination.

Immediately after arriving to Lugu Lake it is apparent that women control the society. I was amazed to see that women held jobs that are traditionally held by men in my culture. Construction workers, women in most shops were proprietors of small businesses and were workers in service jobs. From seeing this, I began to understand the locals meaning when they said that Lugu Lake is the Kingdom of Women and one of the last standing matriarchal societies in the world. Women are the head of the household; inheritance is through the female line, and women make all the business decisions within their society.

One of the best known, and least understood, aspects of Mosuo culture is their practice of what has been One of the best known, and least understood, aspects of Mosuo culture is their practice of what has been termed the “walking marriage” (zou hun in Chinese). Within Mosuo culture, there are very few traditional marriages and a majority of women instead prefer walking marriages. In this custom, when a woman likes a man and wants to begin a relationship, they invite their mate over to their room for nighttime visits. During these visits, women will sleep with their lover but the man is expected to leave early in the morning to return back to his mother’s home.

At the age of 13, every woman within the culture is given her own room in which she can invite male suitAt the age of 13, every woman within the culture is given her own room in which she can invite male suit-ors. If a child is produce from one of these relations, it is mainly the role of the uncle, the grandmother and the child’s mother to raise the child. Nevertheless, women are expected to know who is the father of her children. Futhermore, the father is expected to be present during special occasions within the child’s life.

During my travels at Lugu Lake, I found it most interesting to question the knowledge I had obtained from books by asking questions and staying in the homes of locals. The family in which I stayed with was friendly and happy to answer all of my questions. I learned that although it is possible for a Mosuo woman to change partners as often as she likes, few Mosuo women have more than one partner at a time. Some re-lations can last a lifetime and due to the influence of Han Chinese and outside cultures, this is starting to become more popular within their society. As I interviewed Mosuo villagers and natives, I also found that when non-Mosuo men have a relationship with a Mosuo woman, the walking marriage custom is not obwhen non-Mosuo men have a relationship with a Mosuo woman, the walking marriage custom is not ob-served and women tend to marry. Additionally, due to tourism, more men are becoming inn owners or pursuing positions that have been created to serve the growing tourism industry.

As I continue my expedition exploring minority regions of China, I will remember the kindness and warm-ness of the people at Lugu Lake. Although the Mosuo people are one of China’s 55 ethnic minorities, I have found that each minority group is unique in its own right. Each culture has their own traditions, values, and beliefs. Some of their customs are similar to the Han Chinese such as their mannerisms, while other cus-toms such as the walking marriage are vastly different. Nevertheless, I believe the differences in minority cul-tures are what make China a diverse and interesting country to explore. During my week long stay at Lugu Lake, nights full of dancing, drinking rice wine with the locals, and the serene beauty of the moon lit lake will stick with me. Likewise, the new friendships and people who freely shared their culture with me will continue to permeate within my memories. Brian received a BA in Chinese Language & Culture from ASU